How to Draft a Pattern: The Essential Guide to Custom Design

Copyright © 2014 by Shigeko Rustin.

ISBN:            Softcover            978-1-4990-5387-6

                       eBook                978-1-4990-5388-3

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright owner.

Any people depicted in stock imagery provided by Thinkstock are models, and such images are being used for illustrative purposes only.

Certain stock imagery © Thinkstock.

Rev. date: 11/18/2014

Xlibris

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CONTENTS

Introduction

Tools for drafting:

ABBREVIATED WORDS

Learn to Measure Your Body Accurately

Drafting SLOPER Using Own Measurement

Sleeve SLOPER

Outlining the SLOPER

Darts for upper and lower body

Darts for Skirt

Setting Two Darts of Skirt

Properly Setting Two Dates

Make an A Line Skirt

Make A Line from Straight Skirt

Basic Skirt sloper – From straight to Circular

Different Position of Darts on Body

Dispersion of Dart

Process of Eliminated front and side dart

Shoulder Dart

Dart for Armhole

Side Dart

Three Basic Proportions

For Broad Proportion

Front Sloper

Broad Proportion

Corpulent Proportion

Curved Spine Proportion

Basic Dress to Compliment Any Proportion

Measuring Technology

Making Basic Dress Pattern

First Step – For Basic Dress

Sleeve for basic dress

Basic dress skirt pattern

The Skirt

After the Pattern Draft is Complete

Reshape Darts and Curved Areas

To Cut Muslin

Shaping to your body

HAND STITCH

How to Set in Sleeve

Setting Sleeve

Make the pattern

Trying on the muslin dress

Learning the technique of fitting

Actual adjusting

The Basic Dress

Proportion and the Basic Dress

Ideal Standard Proportion

Ideal Standard proportion

Characteristics of Body Figure #1

Adjusting

Broad Shoulder Proportion

Characteristics of Body Figure # 2

Proper technique to Adjust

Swayed Back Proportion

Characteristics of Figure # 3

Proper technique to Adjust

Curved Spine proportion

Technique for Adjusting Shoulder Area

Adjustment for Bust Line

Adjustment for Women with Larger Thighs

Blouse

For Material:

Preparation for drafting:

Drafting for Blouse

Detail for Drafting the Blouse

Front Sloper

Sleeve

Two Most Common Types of Proportion

Proportion #1: Swayed Proportion

Proportion #2: Sloping PROPORTIONS

Cutting stencil

Cutting Material

Marking the Material

Shaping the Fabric

On Back Shoulder

Side Waistline Position

Guideline for Blouse

Look at figure # 1.

Constructing Upper Torso

Constructing Collar A and B

Set the Sleeve

Temporary Button

Fitting

Swayed back

Adjusting

Two Ways of Adjusting Problem

Thick Proportion

Thin Proportion

Upper and Under Collar Circumference

First Machine stitch

Hand baste Collar; machine stitch Darts

Hand and Iron Work

Pocket Preparation

Collar

Machine Stitch

Hand and Ironwork

Sleeve seam allowance

Bodice of Blouse

Machine work

Machine Work

Hand Stitch

Machine stitch

Handwork / machine stitch

Machine Stitch

Machine work continues

Adjust the buttonhole

Tuck in Blouse with Puffed Sleeve and Flat Collar

Drafting for back

Draft Torso for Tucked Blouse

Drafting for Front

Front Torso

Drafting for Collar

Drafting for Puffed Sleeve

Stencil for Sleeve

The Sleeve

Completed view of the Blouse

Jacket Type Blouse (with Waist Band)

Outline back sloper

Back Sloper

Outline front sloper

Drafting for Collar

Drafting Collar – Step one

Sleeve

Cuff

Drafting Sleeve

Yoke

The Shirt Dress

Back sloper

Back Torso

Front sloper

Front Torso

Drafting Collar

Outline Sleeve Sloper

Cuff with Tuck

Sleeve

Back Skirt

Skirt Back

Front Skirt

Dart for Skirt

Belt Length

Skirt Front and Belt

Adjusting Collar

Hand Basting

Pattern layout and hand stitching

Constructing the Skirt

Sleeve Construction

Final Sewing

Completed Thread Marking

Upper and Under Collar, and Belt.

Hand Basting Collar

Fusible Interfacing

Facing for Sleeve Opening

Procedure to finish section work

Darts

Side seam

Collar

Dart

Cuff

Belt

Sleeve

Iron

Finish Section Work by Trimming Excess

Cuff and Belt

Basting

Collar- Trim seam allowance evenly.

Machine Stitch

Finish Seams

Machine Stay Stitch

Machine work continues

Ironing and Hand Procedure

Zipper

Zipper Placement

Finishing Touch

Finish Touch

Hand Sewing or Stitching

Hand Sewing or Stitch

Completing Finish on Raw Edge

Pocket and Pocket Facing

Hemming

I. Bound Buttonhole

Setting Buttons

Buttons

Button

Placement of Snap’s Hook and Eye

Section Work

Shirt collar

Boat neckline

Boat neckline

Sailor Collar

Sailor Collar

Stand Collar

Stand Collar

Tie Collar

Tie Collar

Bow Collar

Bow Collar

Sleeveless and Collarless Neckline

Facing : neck line and Armhole

Facing for Neckline and Armhole

Short Shirt Sleeve is for Sports Wear or Working

Short Sleeve

Cuff and Sleeve Work

cuff

Completing Cuff and Sleeve

Self placket

Self Fabric Placket

Facing with Lining

Techniques for Finishing the Placket

Placket

Machine Stitch Pocket

Pocket

Stitch Pocket

Pocket Continue.

Tailored Collar Suit

The Suit Pattern

Preparation for Drafting

Drafting basic Suit

Suit - back side

Suit – Front side

Sleeve

Box Pleat Skirt

Back Skirt

Front Skirt

Skirt

Set the pleat

Cutting for Pleats

The Guidelines Covering Essentials for Suit Making

Fitting and Adjusting

Sloping Proportion

Adjusting continue

Check the Material

Layout – for Suit

TWO Panel Sleeve

Shaping the body- upper shoulder

How To: shrink and/or Stretch

Final Product-After Shrinking/Stretching

Cutting interfacing and Canvas

Front

Sleeve

Stencil for Lining

Stitch the Side Front Panel

Pocket Work

Pocket construction

Setting Interfacing

Preparation for Collar

Preparation for Collar

Sleeve

Sleeve Lining –

Shirt Dress

Drafting Pattern

Collar

Sleeve

Cuff

Belt

Cutting Muslin Mark-Up

Machine Stitch

Shirt Dress

Princess dress

Preparation for drafting

Collar

Sleeve

When making pattern out of stencil, mark notches

Shaping

Try the garment on for Adjustment

Cutting Lining

Sewing after Revisions

Machine Stitch

Hand and Iron Work

Machine work

Hand and Iron Work

Machine Work

Hand and Iron Work

Machine work

Iron and Handwork

Hand Sewing: Lining

Finish Stitch

Handwork and Iron Process

Machine Stitching

Hand and Iron Process

Handwork

Handwork

Machine Stitch Process

Long Vest/ short Vest

Long vest

Refer back to jacket for specifics on how to draft

For specifics on how to draft for areas needed.

Machine Stitch, Trim and Trace

Lining – Hand and Machine Stitch

Start Seam Allowance and Setting the Interfacing

Skirt

Two Dart Skirt

Set the Second Dart

Preparation for fitting

Marking the Waist and Shaper

Adjusting Stencil

Waist band shaper

Hand and Iron work

Waistband shaper

Finishing the Hemline

Hand and Iron Work

Turn skirt wrong side out

Machine Process

Iron and Handwork

Iron work

Flared Skirt

Box pleat skirt

To Set the Pleat

Cutting Pattern

Cutting lining

Gored Skirt

Pattern Drafting

Pants and Shorts

Observing the Proportion

Correcting pattern for the Bow leg

Figure A

Figure B

Figure C. Thick body proportion

Figure D.

The figure has a thick thigh, and a sporty looking proportion.

Wide Pants Leg

Construction

Machine Stitch ~ Construction

Cutting lining

Bermuda

Short Pants

Knickerbockers

Waist Band

Pant Cuff Band

Culottes

Culottes with pocket

Pocket Construction

INTRODUCTION

Garment design and construction begins with properly measuring the human body. This step prepares us to make the sloper. There are three independent parts which make up the Sloper: Upper Torso, Lower torso and the Sleeve. Remember these three important parts for future references; it will help in the process of making the sloper.

Upper Torso - Use the bust and the back length measurement to make up the Upper Torso; this measurement is unchangeable yet it is adjusted to fit any body size or proportion.

Bust - the measurement is divided proportionally to fit any body size and is the most important area.

The bust measurement can be adjusted by changing the depth of the armhole.

The Human body is normally even; however, there are also exceptions, because women are normally curvilinear. Much attention is needed when putting upper torso together. When the shoulders are uneven, adjust pattern by tracing the opposite side of the shoulders. When measuring a woman’s upper torso, always start from the right side of the body.

Front, Back and Side view are most important when grasping the concept of the whole body. Bust measurement requires division, addition, and use of simple math alterations to create a sloper. Give a 3D view, no matter what the person’s proportion.

Use sloper to create your own design stencil. Sloper has very few easements; yet when the area is too tight; add easement for loose fit of the garment. More easement may be required with the box type jacket, the one piece dress and the overcoat etc. Various designs can be created from a simple sloper. Who knows what you can make or create just by using your imagination?

Remember that the Sloper vary with size, gender, and age, especially a woman’s sloper.

Tools for drafting:

Tape measure;

T square ruler;

Drafting paper;

Pencil and colored pencil

The metric system of measurement will be utilized at all times; not the standard inches.

For your exercise, practice using the scale ruler that is ¼ condensed and the sloper size that is condensed the same.

The Fashion Ruler, along with the tools below, can easily be found and selected from the fashion school or fabric shop.

The flexible measuring tape can be purchased at these locations or from a craft shop. (i.e. Michaels)

ABBREVIATED WORDS

Back Side Upper Torso

Center Back - CB

Back Neck Point – BNP

Shoulder Neck Point – SNP

Shoulder Point- SP

Center Back Side – CBS

Bust Line – BL

Waist Line – WL

Front Side Upper Torso

Front Neck Point- FNP

Shoulder Point – SP

Side Neck – SN

Center Front – CF

Center Front Side – CFS

Waist Line – WL

Dart Width – DW

Sleeve

Upper Arm - UA

Center Line – CL

Sleeve Head – SH

Elbow Line – EL

Upper Arm Line – UAL

Sleeve Line – SL

Front Sleeve Line (Which Is From the Center Sleeve Line toward the Front)–SILF

Back Sleeve Line (Which Is From the Center Sleeve Line towards the Back)–BSLB

Front Side Line – FSL

Back Side Line – BSL

Center Back Side – C B S

Lower Body Skirt

Center Back–CB

Center Front–CF

Center Back Side-CBS

Center Front Side–CFS

Waist Line–WL

Middle Hip – M H

Hip Line – HL

Middle Hip Line–MHL

Hem Line–HML

LEARN TO MEASURE YOUR BODY ACCURATELY

MEASURING

To prepare for taking measurements, you will need a metric tape measure for accuracy. Please have the model wear good supporting undergarments and stand in a relaxed position. When taking measurements, consideration for the thickness of the garment worn by the model must be taken into account.

Look first at the illustrations, then at front view of your subject. Check shoulders and hips for height level. If there is an imbalance, measure both sides of body (right and left). A woman should always be measured from the right hand side checking both, her profile and front.

Place two fingers inside tape measure for all body measurements, except the waist. Use one finger on the waist area. This is done, for the reason that one should always have some slackness for the waistline of garment.

1. Bust Measurement– Measure horizontally around the back, meeting in the front.

2. Under Bust Measurement – Take exact measurement shown on tape measure.

3. Waist Line – find waist area. Take exact measurement shown on tape measure, including placement of one finger at center front.

4. Hip Measurement – Measure the fullest area of the hip. To measure for large or bulging stomach areas, place a ruler vertically on center front, and then measure the hip while holding vertical ruler in place.

5. Hip Length – Measure from right side waistline to the largest area on hip.

6. Middle Hip – Measure about half way down from the waistline to the hip line.

7. Back Length – Measure from the largest neck bone at the bottom of the neck to the waistline.

8. Full Length – Measure from the back neck bone to the floor.

9. Dress Length – Standard measurement is from the back neck bone to just below the knee.

10. Skirt Length – About the same as #9, but measuring from the waist to just below knee length.

Proper Measuring Through Page nine (9)

11. Sleeve Length ~ Two methods:

a. Take these measurements outside the arm past the elbow to the wrist bone. Measure from the back neck bone across the right shoulder with arm down and slightly bent (about a 20° angle).

b. Take these measurements from the indentation of the shoulder joint (right side), measure across elbow (bent about a 20° angle) to the wrist bone.

12. Elbow Length – Start at shoulder joint, measuring at back of the arm and measure to just below the elbow.

13. Shoulder to shoulder – Measure from shoulder joint to shoulder joint, measuring across the lower neck bone.

14. Full Back – Measure from under the beginning of the right armpit to the beginning of the left armpit.

15. Back Length – Measure from neck-shoulder point to the waistline.

16. Front Length- Back Neck Point – Measure from the back neck bone to the shoulder neck point, over bust point to waistline.

17. Bust Point – Measure from the back neck bone to the shoulder neck point to the bust point.

18. Full Front – Measure from under the beginning of the right armpit to the beginning of the left armpit.

19. Bust Point to Bust Point – Measure across bust from one conical projection to the other conical projection.

20. Armhole – Hold arms horizontally and measure from the shoulder joint; place tape measure around arm pit and bring to top of shoulder, then slowly lower arm to the side and loosen for comfort and movement.

21. Upper arm measurement – Measure around largest part of bicep.

Measurements continue

22. Wrist measurement – Measure around the bones with one finger under the tape.

23. Palm measurement – Place thumb in palm, length towards fingers. Measure across the largest point.

24. Neck Measurement – Measure from the depth on front neck around to shoulder neck point, to back neck bone, back to front of neck.

25. Head measurement – Measure 2cm below the hairline to behind the right ear, continue just under the peak at the back of head to behind the left ear, on to the beginning point.

26. Out Seam For pants – Measure waist at side to below ankle bone.

27. Crotch depth – Measure from front waistline under crotch to back waistline; loosely for comfort.

28. Crotch Length – Have the person in a sitting position on a chair; measure from the right side waistline to chair seat.

29. Inseam Length – Measure from just below the right buttocks to the floor.

Prorper Measuring -End-

Drafting SLOPER Using Own Measurement

* For Woman’s pattern: always start from right hand side.

1. Draw the back length vertically.

2. From top left of center back measure (B/2 + 5 cm) and finish the rest by making rectangular/square shape. The 5 cm is the least amount required for the garment to fit properly, or as said before, for adjustable reasons. This is especially important when designing a different style.

3. Divide bust measurement by 6 then add 7cm. Take the result and measure it from upper left hand corner; on center back line mark the bust length. This line is used for the armhole depth, especially when the bust is extremely small or large. The bust line can go up and down. Divide the bust line in half and mark it. (This procedure will be shown later on in the chapter).

4. How to determine full back width:

➢ Bust divided by 6 + 4.5 cm = X is the bust width. Take the measurement and draw a line from center back on the bust line towards right hand side of the rectangular/ squared sloper.

➢ Bust divided by 6 + 3 cm = Y.

5. Take the measurement and draw a line from center front on bust line to left hand side of the rectangular/ squared sloper. On the right side do the same; draw a line to connect to the top.

6. The space between the back and front panel in the amount of body thickness.

7. Take the Bust line and divide it in half.

8. From center of the marking move 0.5cm toward the center back and draw a vertical line to waistline.

9. Bust divided by 20 + 2.7cm = 76765.png

10. Take the formula (B/ 20 + 2.7cm = 76767.png ) and from upper left corner on the horizontal line divide 76769.png by 3 =O; on the third O segment on right hand side go up one segment Ο. (See illustration)

11. From top of full back width corner go down the segment Ο. From the end of the segment Ο, go out2cm to the right.

12. From the full front line, go down two segments Ο.

13. From center front upper corner, on right hand side, draw a segment Ο to the left on the horizontal line.

14. From center front upper corner, go down length of one 76771.png segment + 1cm.

Sloper Number One – beginning

15. Go down 0.5cm (on the end of S.N.P.) from the horizontal line drawn as 76774.png segment. The reason for going down 0.5cm is that the neck is slightly tilted to the front.

16. On the center front upper corner of the SNP, from the 0.5cm point, close the rectangular shape.

17. Between center front line and full front width line, divide in half (make sure to mark the division point). On the bust line from the division point, move 0.7 cm towards the center side.

18. From the end of the O segment, divide full back width line in half; from the division point draw a horizontal line.

19. From the end of the point of the two points of the O Segments, divide the full front width line in half.

20. Full back width at lower corner on bust line: Divide the space between Full Back width and center side in half, which is marked with the (//) slash segment.

21. From the lower corner of the Full Back width, take the (//) segment + 0.5cm and place at 45° angle and mark.

22. On the lower front of the full width, draw a 45-degree angle with the (//) segment and place a mark.

23. Divide the bottom of the rectangle in half, which will equal (/) slash segment. Take the (/) segment and draw a 45° angle on the inner left corner of the rectangle of neckline.

24. On the bust line, from the 0.7cm point (see # 17) draw a vertical line to the waistline.

➢ Extend by adding the (/) segment.

➢ From 0.7cm on the bust line, go down (/) for bust point.

25. From center front of the waistline, extend by adding (/) segment. At the center side on the waistline, move 2cm towards the center back.

Sloper Number Two

Sleeve SLOPER

See illustration for creating sleeve SLOPER

Measure armhole length from the garment SLOPER from Back A point to B point.

This sloper can be used for