Culinary history, slow food

🇵🇱(🇬🇧 below) ABSTRAKT

Wiele jest sposobów konserwowania owoców ze zbieractwa i z upraw. Jednym z najdoskonalszych jest typ produktu, którego forma kulinarna, znana od stuleci albo i tysiącleci w krajach Azji Centralnej i Kaukazu, a w Polsce udokumentowana dużo później. Najdoskonalsza dlatego, że wykorzystuje naturalne źródło energii cieplnej: promienie słoneczne. Historycznie, jego wytwarzanie nie było wcale li tylko rozrywką kulinarną w formie deseru, a... atrybutem praktyk obrzędowych islamu.
Powszechny wśród konsumentów (nie badaczy) sposób poszukiwania informacji, to wynajdywanie haseł w platformie Wikipedia. Geneza przekąsek z suszonych owoców jest tu błędnie formułowana. Opisy głoszą, że jest to tradycja i pomysł kuchni rosyjskiej, co jest nieprawdą. Rosja carska zawłaszczyła wiele utworów i konceptów kulinarnych licznych narodów i etnosów. Ta próba dominacji trwała w ZSRR i trwa dziś. Produktów tych nie wymyślili ani Rosjanie, ani Ukraińcy, ani Polacy. Kto zatem? W antropologii i badaniach nad pożywieniem (jedzeniem) jest to pytanie retoryczne, nie mające odpowiedzi. Nacjonalizacja kulinariów nie jest właściwym tropem. Niewątpliwie jednak warto podjąć analizę antropologiczną praktyk jedzeniowych, której fragmentem jest niniejsze opracowania.
Autorka, Anna Maria Rumińska, antropolożka kultury i jedzenia, architektka i projektantka ogrodów, kucharka-rekonstruktorka i kuratorka kulinarna, analizuje genezę i symbolikę PASTU, przekąsek z suszonych owoców. Bada ich rozmaite formy, nazwy narodowe i etniczne oraz głęboką symbolikę ukrytą w etymologii. Czerpie wiedzę ze źródeł turkijskich, np. kirgiskich i tureckich, a także arabskich, syryjskich i perskich, uznawszy źródła centralnoazjatyckie i kaukaskie za najważniejsze. Zajrzała też do źródeł indyjskich. Sporządziła mapę tego typu przekąsek. W Indiach wykonano badania naukowe w zakresie składu chemicznego. Istnieje nawet naukowy przepis kulinarny stworzony na potrzeby tej analizy.
Autorka prezentuje tu pierwsze i jedyne tłumaczenie wyników indyjskich badań, jak również krytykę opracowania FAO (Food and and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations) poświęconego tego typu przekąskom. Dzięki temu tłumaczeniu dostępna jest gastronomiczna analiza relacji między wieloma aspektami: nazwami narodowymi i etnicznymi, odmianami tego produktu i jego pochodnymi, sposobem przyrządzania, proporcjami składników owocowych, temperaturą, wilgotnością, czasem składowania, rodzajem opakowania, zawartością witaminy C, pleśni i drożdży.
Ta antropogastronomiczna praca badawcza zyskała wiele cennych wątków dzięki kontaktom w sieci SlowFood.com, szczególnie dzięki kontaktom Autorki z sieci „Terra Madre Salone del Gusto”, przede wszystkim z 2018 roku.
Niniejsze Studium to dogłębna analiza kulinarna, antropogastronomiczna i historyczna zawierająca również przepisy na różne przekąski z ich odmiennymi nazwami, instrukcje zdjęciowe i tekstowe. Całość zajmuje 40 stronach formatu A4. Studium zawiera tekst i wiele kolorowych ilustracji. Plik PDF ebook dostępny jest w linku albo na zamówienie emailem:
https://gum.co/SKOzu
chwastozercy (at) gmail. com
Partnerzy i Mecenasi:
Slow Food Dolny Śląsk - Społeczność Slow Food Promocji Kulinarnego Dziedzictwa Dolnego Śląska
www.slowfooddolnyslask.org

Pełny tekst:
https://chwastozercy.gumroad.com/l/SKOzu

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🇬🇧 ABSTRACT

There are many ways to preserve foraged (uncultivated) or cultivated fruits. One of the most perfect is a product, a culinary form known for centuries or even millennia in the countries of Central Asia and the Caucasus, also documented in Polish records much later. The most perfect, because it utilizes a natural source of thermal energy: sun rays. Historically, its production was not a culinary entertainment in the form of a dessert, but ... a ritual practice of Islam.
A common way of searching for information among consumers (not researchers) is searching for phrases in the Wikipedia platform. The origin of the dried fruit snacks is wrongly worded here. The descriptions say, this is a tradition and an idea of Russian cuisine, which is not true. Tsarist Russia appropriated many works and culinary concepts of many other nations and ethnoses, and this attempt to dominate was continued by the USSR and goes on today. These snacks were not invented by Russians, Ukrainians, or Poles. So by whom? In the food anthropology and food studies this is a rhetorical question, with no answer. Culinary nationalization is not the right track. Undoubtedly, however, it is worth undertaking an anthropological analysis of food practices, a part of which this study is.
The author, Anna Maria Rumińska, cultural and food anthropologist, architect and garden designer, chef-reenactor and culinary curator, analyzes the origins and symbolism of PAST, dried fruit snacks. She examines its various forms, national and ethnic names, and deep symbolism hidden in etymology. She draws knowledge from Turkic sources, e.g. Kyrgyz and Turkish, as well as Arab ones, Syrian and Persian, considering Central Asian and Caucasian sources as the most important. She also looked at Indian records. She made a linguistic map of this type of snacks. In India, scientific research has been carried out on this type of snack in terms of its chemical composition. There is even a scientific culinary recipe created for the purpose of this analysis.
The author presents the first and only Polish translation of the Indian research results, as well as a critique of the study of FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations) devoted to this type of snacks. Thanks to this translation, what is possible is a gastronomic analysis of the relationship between many aspects: national and ethnic names, varieties of this product and its derivatives, preparation method, proportions of fruit ingredients, temperature, humidity, storage time, type of packaging, content if vitamin C, moulds and yeasts.
This anthropogastronomic research gained many valuable threads thanks to the contacts within the SlowFood.com network, especially thanks to the Author's contacts from the network "Terra Madre Salone del Gusto", mainly from 2018.
This anthropogastronomic study is an in-depth anthropological, culinary and historical analysis, including recipes for various dried fuit snacks with their different names, photographs and text instructions. The whole is 40 pages of A4 format. The study contains text and a lot of colorful illustrations.
The PDF e-book in English is available by email order:
chwastozercy (at) gmail. com

Partners and Patreons:
Slow Food Dolny Śląsk - Slow Food Community for Promotion of Dolny Slask Culinary Heritage
www.slowfooddolnyslask.org

ÖZET Son yıllarda, dünyanın birçok yerinde " yavaş şehir " ve " yavaş yemek " kavramlarına yönelik ilgi artışı gözlenmektedir. Ziyaretçiler, ziyaret ettikleri yörelerin tarihi, doğası ve kültürel değerlerinin yanı sıra yöresel gıda ürünlerine yönelik deneyim fırsatı da bulmaktadırlar. Bu deneyimler bir alternatif turizm çeşidi olan " Gastronomi Turizmi " kapsamında gerçekleşmekte ve ziyaretçilere doğal, sağlıklı lezzetler tatma imkânı sunmaktadır. Özellikle bilgi ve iletişim teknolojilerindeki değişimler nedeniyle sanal ortamda kullanıcılar elektronik ağızdan ağıza iletişime (e-WOM) başvurarak deneyimlerini kolayca aktarabilmektedir. Bu durum potansiyel tüketicilere bir ürün hakkında doğru karar verme ve satın alma sürecini hızlandırmıştır. Amacı: İzmir Seferihisar ilçesinde faaliyet gösteren ve yerel lezzetler sunan restoran işletmelerinin hangi unsurlardan kaynaklı olarak olumlu ve olumsuz yorumlar aldıklarını belirlemek ve bu doğrultuda uygulayıcılara yönelik öneriler geliştirmektir. Araştırma Yöntemi: Seferihisar'da bulunan restoranların sosyal medya aracı tripAdvisor üzerindeki yavaş yemek akımına katılanların; demografik bulguları, algıladıkları değer, memnuniyet, davranışsal niyetleri nitel olarak incelenmiştir. Restoranlara yönelik yapılan 589 yorumun MAXQDA 12 nitel veri analizi programı yardımı ile içerik analizi gerçekleştirilmiştir. Bulgular: İşletmeler genel olarak kısmi memnuniyetsizliğe karşın olumlu değerlendirildiği ve pozitif deneyime sahip görüşlere daha fazla yer verildiği anlaşılmaktadır. İncelenen ziyaretçi yorumlarının analizinde işletmelerin alt temalarına yönelik 1877 pozitif görüş, 439 negatif görüşe rastlanılmıştır. Pozitif anlamda en fazla yorum yapılan ana temalar; yiyecek içecek özellikleri (n=775), işletmelerin iç özellikleri (n=260) ve işletmelerin çevresel özellikleri (n=242) iken; negatif anlamda en fazla yorum alan ana temalar ise; yiyecek içecek özellikleri (n=127), personel (n=88) ve fiyatlar(n=70) olmuştur. Sonuç ve Öneriler: Sonuç olarak belirtilen hususlar bölge turizmi açısından dikkat edilmesi ve işletmeler açısından üzerinde durulması gereken konulardır. Gelecek araştırmalarda ise başka bir yavaş şehir olarak kabul edilen bölgedeki restoranlar ile karşılaştırma yapılabilir.

Anthropology of Pepperbread. Piperatological Compendium - this paper is devoted to a very special Polish type of gingerbread: pepperbread. The name 'pepperbread' in Polish is 'piernik' [pyerńeek] which derives from the word 'pepper' and once was associated with all foreign spices, very expensive at the time, with symbolic meaning and aphrodisiacal and medicinal function. In the paper, the Author describes the crucial data from the history and the anthropological issues regarding symbolics and communication via the pepperbread. The figurative pepperbread (PL: piernik figuralny) was used in the past as a mean of communication, not just a cookie. Diverse pepperbread ornamented moulds are associated too. They were handmade of various raw materials: ceramics, wood, wax, metal etc. In the ebook, the Author also provides you with the variety of historical recipes to make your pepperbread at home.

Both versions - EN and PL - are available by email order.
In the link provided in the abstract, you will find the link to the PL version:
https://gum.co/jjoEu

Editor: Slow Food Dolny Slask
a Polish chapter of the SlowFood-com network

more details:
slowfooddolnyslask(at)gmail.com

The application of nonthermal dielectric barrier discharge (DBD) plasma for altering the hydrophilicity or hydrophobicity
of polymer surfaces is well known. In this work, we demonstrate the potential of DBD plasma in enhancing
the surface hydrophobicity of freshly baked biscuits, evident from the increased spread area of
vegetable oil. The electrical and optical characteristics of the DBD plasma source have also been described. The
spread area of individual oil drops has been measured using a digital image analysis technique. An exponential
order of increase in the spread area has been observed at 80 kV with respect to treatment time, following DBD
treatment. The findings reported in thiswork have applications in the industrial preparation of biscuit and cracker
variants, where post-baking oil spray is desired. The effect of plasma treatments on the chemical constituents
of biscuit requires further investigation.
Industrial relevance: There is a substantive evidence for the need of an alternate process which allows retaining
functionality of sprayed oil in biscuits, with less oil or fat and increased spread. A novel process based on barrier
discharge atmospheric pressure nonthermal plasma for enhancement of oil spreadability on dry, snack food
products is developed. For a given volume of oil, up to 50% more spreading of oil can be achievedwithin fewseconds
of the process as compared to currently used methods. The plasma source can be easily integrated into a
continuous biscuit and cracker production or finishing line.

As Massimo Montanari remind us all, " food is culture, " and today food culture not only attracts the interest of many scholars but has also become a common way to teach Italian culture in class and a way to compare Italy to other cultures. This panel aims to host different and creative approaches to using food as the means of presenting Italian culture and literature, establishing comparisons with other cultures, and raising awareness among our students on sensitive topics, such as health and environmental issues. Please send a 150-word abstract and a short biographical blurb to Andrea Polegato (Andrea.Polegato@unt.edu) by January 4 th .