WO2025002686A1

WO2025002686A1 - A personal care composition comprising a carboxymethyl cysteine compound and an extract of engelhardtia genus

Info

Publication number: WO2025002686A1
Application number: PCT/EP2024/064373
Authority: WO
Inventors: Xuelan GU; Xue Xiao
Original assignee: Unilever Ip Holdings B.V.; Unilever Global Ip Limited; Conopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever
Priority date: 2023-06-29
Filing date: 2024-05-24
Publication date: 2025-01-02

Abstract

Disclosed is a personal care composition comprising carboxymethyl cysteine compound and extract of Engelhardtia genus.

Description

A PERSONAL CARE COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CARBOXYMETHYL CYSTEINE COMPOUND AND AN EXTRACT OF ENGELHARDTIA GENUS

Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to a personal care composition. In particular the present invention is related to a personal care composition comprising carboxymethyl cysteine compound and extract of Engelhardtia genus. It was surprisingly found that the expression of CRABPII gene was significantly elevated by combining carboxymethyl cysteine compound and extract of Engelhardtia genus.

Background of the Invention

The skin is a primary barrier of the human body. It protects the organs in the body from external stimulations. It is subject to intrinsic aging and extrinsic aging. Skin aging is a complex process, and alterations in human skin due to aging have distinct characteristics as compared to other organs. Characteristics of intrinsic or chronological skin aging include dryness, visible free lines and wrinkles, uneven skin pigmentation, loss of elasticity and skin sagging. Extrinsic factors including exposure to sunlight, pollutants and cigarette smoke can accelerate the skin aging process, especially on the face.

Retinoids (e.g. retinol and retinyl esters) are common ingredients used in personal care products. Retinol (vitamin A) is an endogenous compound which occurs naturally in the human body and is essential for epidermal cell growth and differentiation and are beneficial to counteract skin aging. Natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives have been used extensively in the treatment of a variety of skin disorders and have been used as skin repair or renewal agents. The cellular retinoic acid-binding protein II (CRABPII) facilitates the passage of all-trans-retinoic acid (and related derivatives) through the cytoplasm to access retinoic acid receptors. Upregulating the expression of CRABPII gene typically leads to an increase in production of cellular retinoic acidbinding protein II and therefore helps anti-aging.

Therefore, the present inventors have recognized that there is a need to develop solution to upregulate the expression of CRABPII gene. It was surprisingly found that by combining carboxymethyl cysteine compound and extract of Engelhardtia genus, the expression of CRABPII gene was significantly upregulated. Summary of the Invention

In a first aspect, the present invention is directed to a personal care composition comprising carboxymethyl cysteine compound and extract of Engelhardtia genus.

In a second aspect, the present invention is directed to a method of providing the skin benefits selected from the group consisting of improving skin elasticity, reducing the appearance of wrinkles, reducing sagging, anti-aging and upregulating the expression of cellular retinoic acidbinding protein II gene comprising a step of topically applying to the skin the composition of the composition of the present invention.

In a third aspect, the present invention is directed to use of the composition of the present invention for providing the skin benefits selected from the group consisting of improving skin elasticity, reducing the appearance of wrinkles, reducing sagging, anti-aging and upregulating the expression of cellular retinoic acid-binding protein II gene.

All other aspects of the present invention will more readily become apparent upon considering the detailed description and examples which follow.

Detailed Description of the Invention

Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use may optionally be understood as modified by the word “about”.

All amounts are by weight of the composition, unless otherwise specified.

It should be noted that in specifying any range of values, any particular upper value can be associated with any particular lower value.

For the avoidance of doubt, the word “comprising” is intended to mean “including” but not necessarily “consisting of’ or “composed of’. In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive.

The disclosure of the invention as found herein is to be considered to cover all embodiments as found in the claims as being multiply dependent upon each other irrespective of the fact that claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy. Where a feature is disclosed with respect to a particular aspect of the invention (for example a composition of the invention), such disclosure is also to be considered to apply to any other aspect of the invention (for example a method of the invention) mutatis mutandis.

The carboxymethyl cysteine compound refers to compound selected from carboxymethyl cysteine, salt of carboxymethyl cysteine, ester of carboxymethyl cysteine, amide of carboxymethyl cysteine or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises carboxymethyl cysteine, ester of carboxymethyl cysteine, and/or salt of carboxymethyl cysteine. More preferably, the carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises carboxymethyl cysteine, and/or salt of carboxymethyl cysteine. Even more preferably, carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises salt of carboxymethyl cysteine. Still even more preferably the carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate and most preferably, the carboxymethyl cysteine compound is lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate.

Preferably, the carboxymethyl cysteine compound is present in amount of at least 0.00001%, more preferably at least 0.0001 %, even more preferably at least 0.001%, still even more preferably at least 0.01%, and most preferably at least 0.1 % by weight of the composition. Preferably, the carboxymethyl cysteine compound is present in amount of no greater than 10%, more preferably no greater than 5%, even more preferably no greater than 3%, still even more preferably no greater than 1 %, and most preferably no greater than 0.5% by weight of the composition.

Preferably, the lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate is present in amount of no greater than 10%, more preferably no greater than 5%, even more preferably no greater than 3%, still even more preferably no greater than 1 %, and most preferably no greater than 0.5% by weight of the composition. Preferably, the lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate is present in amount of at least 0.00001%, more preferably at least 0.0001 %, even more preferably at least 0.001 %, still even more preferably at least 0.01 %, and most preferably at least 0.1 % by weight of the composition.

The composition of the present invention comprises extract of Engelhardtia genus. Typically, extract of Engelhardtia genus means a mixture of compounds extracted from a plant Engelhardtia genus. Preferably, the composition comprises extract of Engelhardtia chrysolepis Hance species. Preferably the extract is extract from the parts above the ground (e.g., leaves and stalks) of Engelhardtia chrysolepis Hance species, and more preferably from the leaves of Engelhardtia chrysolepis Hance species. Preferably, the extract is extract having INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) name of Engelhardtia chrysolepis leaf extract.

Preferably, the extract is an aqueous extract. The term “aqueous extract” means that the extract is obtained by using water, or water mixing with hydrophilic organic solvent as the solvent for extraction. The hydrophilic organic solvent may be selected from C1-C5 alcohol (including polyalcohol), C3-C6 aliphatic ketone; and C2-C5 polyalcohol. Preferably the hydrophilic organic solvent is selected from ethanol, acetone, ethyl acetate, glycerin, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol or a mixture thereof. However, it is preferable that the extract is obtained by solely using water, or water mixing ethanol, acetone and/or glycerin as solvent for extraction. Preferably, the extract is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

Preferably, the extract is prepared by immersing the leaves and/or stalks of Engelhardtia (preferably Engelhardtia chrysolepis Hance) or the whole Engelhardtia (preferably Engelhardtia chrysolepis) in water, hydrophilic organic solvent or mixture thereof, and extracting components therefrom at a temperature of a range from room temperature to the boiling point of the solvent used in any suitable device. More preferably, the extract is obtained by extracting Engelhardtia (preferably Engelhardtia chrysolepis Hance) at 40 to 95 degrees centigrade for 30 minutes to 4 hours with water or combination of water and ethanol and/or glycerin as solvent.

Preferably the amount of extract of Engelhardtia genus is in the range of 0.00001 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.0001 to 3% by weight, even more preferably 0.0005 to 1.5% by weight and most preferably 0.001 to 0.8% by weight of the composition and most preferably 0.002 to 0.3% by weight of the composition. The amount of extract of Engelhardtia chrysolepis Hance species is preferably in the range of 0.00001 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.0001 to 3% by weight, even more preferably 0.0005 to 1.5% by weight and most preferably 0.001 to 0.8% by weight of the composition and most preferably 0.002 to 0.3% by weight of the composition. The amount of Engelhardtia chrysolepis leaf extract is preferably in the range of 0.00001 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.0001 to 3% by weight, even more preferably 0.0005 to 1.5% by weight and most preferably 0.001 to 0.8% by weight of the composition and most preferably 0.002 to 0.3% by weight of the composition. For sake of clarity, the weight of the plant extract in the present invention refers to the weight of solid extracted from the plant.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the carboxymethyl cysteine compound to the extract of Engelhardtia genus is 1 :200 to 50:1 , more preferably 1 :80 to 20:1 , even more preferably 1 :30 to 8:1 , still even more preferably 1 :15 to 3:1 and most preferably 1 :5 to 1 :1. Preferably, the weight ratio of the carboxymethyl cysteine compound to the extract of Engelhardtia chrysolepis Hance species is 1 :200 to 50:1 , more preferably 1 :80 to 20:1 , even more preferably 1 :30 to 8:1 , still even more preferably 1 :15 to 3:1 and most preferably 1 :5 to 1 :1. Preferably, the weight ratio of the lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate to the extract of Engelhardtia chrysolepis Hance species is 1 :200 to 50:1 , more preferably 1 :80 to 20:1 , even more preferably 1 :30 to 8:1 , still even more preferably 1 :15 to 3:1 and most preferably 1 :5 to 1 :1. Preferably, the weight ratio of the carboxymethyl cysteine compound to the Engelhardtia chrysolepis leaf extract is 1 :200 to 50:1 , more preferably 1 :80 to 20:1 , even more preferably 1 :30 to 8:1 , still even more preferably 1 :15 to 3:1 and most preferably 1 :5 to 1 :1. Preferably, the weight ratio of the lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate to the Engelhardtia chrysolepis leaf extract is 1 :200 to 50:1 , more preferably 1 :80 to 20:1 , even more preferably 1 :30 to 8:1 , still even more preferably 1 :15 to 3:1 and most preferably 1 :5 to 1 :1.

The composition may optionally comprise whitening pigment. Whitening pigments are typically particles of high refractive index materials. For example, the whitening pigment may have a refractive index of greater than 1.3, more preferably greater than 1.8 and most preferably from 2.0 to 2.7. Examples of such whitening pigment are those comprising bismuth oxy-chloride, boron nitride, barium sulfate, mica, silica, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, aluminium oxide, zinc oxide or combinations thereof. More preferred whitening pigment are particles comprising titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, mica, iron oxide or a combination thereof. Even more preferred whitening pigment are particles comprising zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, titanium dioxide or a combination thereof as these materials have especially high refractive index. Still even more preferably the whitening pigment is selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or a mixture thereof and most preferred whitening pigment is titanium dioxide. The average diameter of whitening pigment is typical from 15 nm to 1 micron, more preferably from 35 nm to 800 nm, even more preferably from 50 nm to 500 nm and still even more preferably from 100 to 300 nm. Amount of whitening pigment may be 0.1 to 15%, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition comprises a glutamate source selected from the group consisting of glutamine, glutamine ester, glutamic acid, pyroglutamic acid, salts, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the composition comprises pyroglutamic acid and/or salt of pyroglutamic acid. Even more preferably, the composition comprises sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid. Preferably, the glutamate source is present in amount of 0.0001 to 10% by weight of the composition, more preferably 0.001 to 6%, even more preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition comprises polyhydric alcohol. Polyhydric alcohols may be selected from group of glycerin, propylyene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol or a mixture thereof. Most preferred polyhydric alcohol is glycerol known also as glycerin. The amount of polyhydric alcohol may range anywhere from 0.1 to 20%, preferably 0.5 to 15% and more preferably 2 and 10% by weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition comprises emollient materials. Suitable emollient materials include silicones, hydrocarbons, triglycerides or a mixture thereof. These silicones may be organic, silicone-containing or fluorine-containing, volatile or non-volatile, polar or non-polar. Hydrocarbons may include mineral oil, petrolatum and polyalpha-olefins. Examples of preferred volatile hydrocarbons include polydecanes such as isododecane and isodecane (e.g. Permethyl- 99A which is available from Presperse Inc.) and the C7-C8 through C12-C15 isoparaffins (such as the Isopar Series available from Exxon Chemicals). Illustrative triglycerides but not limiting are sunflower seed oil, cotton oil, canola oil, soybean oil, castor oil, borage oil, olive oil, shea butter, jojoba oil and mixtures thereof. Mono- and di- glycerides may also be useful. Particularly preferable are glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate.

Preferably, the composition comprises moisturizing agents. Particularly preferred moisturizing agents includes, petrolatum, aquaporin manipulating actives, oat kernel flour, substituted urea like hydroxyethyl urea, hyaluronic acid and/or its precursor N-acetyl glucosamine, hyaluronic acid and/or its precursor N-acetyl glucosamine, or a mixture thereof.

Some compositions may include thickeners. These may be selected from cellulosics, natural gums and acrylic polymers but not limited by this thickening agent types. Among the cellulosics are sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose and combinations thereof. Suitable gums include xanthan, pectin, karaya, agar, alginate gums and combinations thereof. Among the acrylic thickeners are homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acids including carbomers such as Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 982, llltrez, Aqua SF-1 and Aqua SF-2 available from the Lubrizol Corporation. Amounts of thickener may range from 0.01 to 3% by weight of the active polymer (outside of solvent or water) in the compositions.

In addition, the compositions of the invention may further include 0.5 to 10% by weight of sequestering agents, such as tetra sodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA), EHDP or mixtures; opacifiers and pearlizers such as ethylene glycol distearate, titanium dioxide or Lytron 621 (Styrene/Acrylate copolymer); all of which are useful in enhancing the appearance or properties of the product.

The composition may comprise water in amount of 10 to 96% by weight of the composition, more preferably from 25 to 92%, even more preferably from 42 to 88%, most preferably from 55 to 82% by weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition has a viscosity of at least 10 mPa s, more preferably in the range 30 to 10000 mPa s, even more preferably 50 to 5000 mPa s, and most preferably 100 to 2000 mPa s, when measured at 20 degrees C at a relatively high shear rate of about 20 s'¹.

Preferably, the composition is an emulsion, more preferably an oil-in-water emulsion. Preferably the composition is a fluid liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure.

Preferably, the personal care composition is a skin care composition. Skin care composition refers to a composition suitable for topical application to human skin, including leave-on and wash-off products but preferably leave-on compositions. The term “leave-on” as used with reference to compositions herein means a composition that is applied to or rubbed on the skin, and left thereon. The term “wash-off” as used with reference to compositions herein means a skin cleanser that is applied to or rubbed on the skin and rinsed off substantially immediately subsequent to application. The term "skin" as used herein includes the skin on the face, neck, chest, abdomen, back, arms, under arms, hands, and legs. Preferably “skin” means includes the skin on the face and under arms, more preferably skin means skin on the face other than lips and eyelids. The composition is particularly preferably a moisturizer rather than a make-up product.

Preferably, the composition is a topical composition. Preferably, the composition may be in the form of cream, lotion, ointment, solution, suspension, emulsion, paste, gel, powder, powder foundation, emulsion foundation, wax foundation, or spray. More preferably, the composition may be formulated in the form of cream, lotion, ointment, emulsion, gel, or a spray.

Preferably, the composition is capable of upregulating the expression of cellular retinoic acidbinding protein II gene by at least 1.4 fold change, more preferably 1.5 to 7 and most preferably 1.8 to 5 and most preferably 2 to 3.5 fold change, typically in comparison to personal care composition comprising neither carboxymethyl cysteine compound nor extract of Engelhardtia genus. Preferably the use is non-therapeutic. Preferably the method is non-therapeutic. The term non- therapeutic typically means for cosmetic purposes and not curative or therapeutic purposes.

The following examples are provided to facilitate an understanding of the invention. The examples are not intended to limit the scope of the claims.

Examples

Materials

Example 1

This Example demonstrates the synergistic effect of upregulating CRABPII gene expression by combining lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate and Engelhardtia chrysolepis leaf extract.

The normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) (Biocell, Xi’an, China, Lot: Fb20081902) were incubated in medium together with or without actives for 48 hours. After incubation, the total RNA for each NHDF was extracted using RNAex Pro reagent (Accurate Biotechnology, Cat: AG21102) according to manufacturer’s protocol.

The extracted RNA was quantified using Nanodrop spectrometer (Thermo Fisher Scientific, Waltham, MA, US) and reverse transcribed to generate the template cDNA using the Evo M-MLV RT Premix for qPCR (Accurate Biotechnology, Cat: AG11706) according to manufacturer’s protocol. Gene expression of CRABPII gene was analyzed by polymerase chain reaction (PCR) using SYBR® Green Premix Pro Taq HS qPCR Kit (Accurate Biotechnology, AG11701). The actin beta (ACTS) gene was selected as the housekeeping gene and all data on relative expression of the target genes was normalized to ACTB gene. The fold changes in expression were calculated relative to the blank control (medium having no active). All tests were conducted at least three times and Table 1 shows the fold changes in gene expression of CRABPII. Table 1

* The level of actives is weight percentage based on the amount of medium a: significantly better (p<0.05) than either of single active at same level.

It was evident from Table 1 that it is not capable of elevating the expression CRABPII gene by lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate or Engelhardtia chrysolepis leaf extract (A and B). However, when combining lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate or Engelhardtia chrysolepis leaf extract, the expression of CRABPII gene was significantly upregulated (1 vs. A and B).

Claims

1. A personal care composition comprising carboxymethyl cysteine compound and extract of Engelhardtia genus, wherein the extract is extract from the leaves of Engelhardtia chrysolepis Hance species and the extract is aqueous extract.

2. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises carboxymethyl cysteine, ester of carboxymethyl cysteine, and/or salt of carboxymethyl cysteine.

3. The composition according to claim 2 wherein the carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises salt of carboxymethyl cysteine and preferably the carboxymethyl cysteine compound comprises lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the carboxymethyl cysteine compound is present in amount of at least 0.00001% and no greater than 10% by weight of the composition, preferably carboxymethyl cysteine compound is present in amount of at least 0.01% and no greater than 3% by weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the the extract is extract having INCI name of Engelhardtia chrysolepis leaf extract.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the extract is obtained by solely using water or water mixing with ethanol, acetone and/or glycerin as solvent for extraction.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of extract of Engelhardtia genus in the range of 0.0005 to 1.5% by weight preferably by weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the weight ratio of the carboxymethyl cysteine compound to the extract of Engelhardtia genus is 1 :30 to 8:1 , preferably 1 :5 to 1 :1.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the weight ratio of the lysine carboxymethyl cysteinate to the Engelhardtia chrysolepis leaf extract is 1 :30 to 8:1 , preferably 1 :5 to 1 :1.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition is an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition is a fluid liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition comprises water in amount of 10 to 96% by weight of the composition, preferably from 42 to 88% by weight of the composition.

13. A method of providing the skin benefits selected from the group consisting of improving skin elasticity, reducing the appearance of wrinkles, reducing sagging, anti-aging and upregulating the expression of cellular retinoic acid-binding protein II gene comprising a step of topically applying to the skin the composition of any one of the preceding claims.

14. Use of the composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11 for providing the skin benefits selected from the group consisting of improving skin elasticity, reducing the appearance of wrinkles, reducing sagging, anti-aging and upregulating the expression of cellular retinoic acid-binding protein II gene.