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WO2024152095A1 - Prémélange et procédé pour préparer une composition cosmétique, composition cosmétique, procédé pour améliorer la sensibilité au toucher d'une surface, procédé de photoprotection d'une surface et utilisation du prémélange - Google Patents

Prémélange et procédé pour préparer une composition cosmétique, composition cosmétique, procédé pour améliorer la sensibilité au toucher d'une surface, procédé de photoprotection d'une surface et utilisation du prémélange Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024152095A1
WO2024152095A1 PCT/BR2024/050016 BR2024050016W WO2024152095A1 WO 2024152095 A1 WO2024152095 A1 WO 2024152095A1 BR 2024050016 W BR2024050016 W BR 2024050016W WO 2024152095 A1 WO2024152095 A1 WO 2024152095A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
niobium
premix
cosmetic composition
results
sample
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/BR2024/050016
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English (en)
Portuguese (pt)
Inventor
Joel Boaretto
Robinson Carlos Dudley CRUZ
Original Assignee
Instituto Hercílio Randon
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Priority claimed from BR102023000931-0A external-priority patent/BR102023000931A2/pt
Application filed by Instituto Hercílio Randon filed Critical Instituto Hercílio Randon
Publication of WO2024152095A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024152095A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C01—INORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C01G—COMPOUNDS CONTAINING METALS NOT COVERED BY SUBCLASSES C01D OR C01F
    • C01G33/00—Compounds of niobium
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention is located in the fields of Cosmetology and related Sciences. More specifically, the invention relates to a premix for preparing a cosmetic composition, a process for preparing a cosmetic composition and a cosmetic composition with improved sensory characteristics. As well as a method for improving the touch sensitivity of a surface and a method for photoprotecting a surface.
  • the premix and composition of the invention comprise Niobium microparticles and/or submicroparticles and provide advantageous and surprising effects. In one embodiment, the premix and composition of the invention additionally comprise Niobium nanoparticles.
  • titanium dioxide is the most commonly used, followed by zinc oxide and hydroxyapatite. Although it is the most common physical sunscreen, titanium dioxide presents problems such as: a whitish appearance on the skin, pasty sensation, poor spreadability, incompatibility with some cosmetic vehicles. Furthermore, Titanium Dioxide was banned from use in the European community, for use in the food industry, as it is an ingredient with carcinogenic potential.
  • the present invention provides an alternative to these problems.
  • Patent document JP2003267850A discloses the use of a powder dispersion (Premix) that includes nanoparticles in a cosmetic composition, more specifically, a sunscreen. On the other hand, said document does not disclose a premix or a composition with the specific characteristics of the present invention.
  • Premix powder dispersion
  • Patent document WO2021 121647A1 discloses the use of a complex metal material, applicable in cosmetic compositions, such as sunscreens that present an improvement in the UV absorption process.
  • said document only discloses a series of examples in a generic way, without specific tests and does not disclose a premix or a composition with the specific characteristics of the present invention.
  • Patent document W02007133808A2 discloses the use of nanoparticles in cosmetic compositions. However, said document does not disclose a premix or a composition with the specific characteristics of the present invention.
  • the article Ali et al. (01/2022) (Use of niobium oxide nanoparticles as nanofillers in PVP/PVA blends to enhance UV-visible absorption, opto-linear, and nonlinear optical properties) reveals improvement of UV absorption properties with the use of niobium pentoxide nanoparticles.
  • said document does not disclose a premix or a composition with the specific characteristics of the present invention.
  • the article Lyu et al. (08/2022) (Nanoparticles in sunscreen: exploration of the effect and harm of titanium oxide and zinc oxide) presents the use of nanoparticles in a sunscreen. On the other hand, it only discusses the effect of titanium oxides and zinc oxides and does not disclose a premix or a composition with the specific characteristics of the present invention.
  • the invention provides a premix for preparing a cosmetic composition, the use of the premix for preparing a cosmetic composition, a process for preparing a cosmetic composition and a cosmetic composition with improved sensory characteristics.
  • the premix of the present invention presents very promising and surprising results in relation to softness/sensitivity to touch, in addition to promising results as a physical photoprotector.
  • the present invention presents a premix for preparing a cosmetic composition, comprising one or more excipients and Niobium microparticles, Niobium submicroparticles or combinations thereof.
  • the premix comprises niobium submicroparticles.
  • the present invention presents a process for preparing a cosmetic composition, comprising a step of mixing said premix in cosmetic excipients.
  • the present invention presents a cosmetic composition, comprising one or more excipients and Niobium microparticles, Niobium submicroparticles or combinations thereof.
  • the composition comprises niobium submicroparticles.
  • the present invention presents a method for improving the touch sensitivity of a surface comprising at least one step of applying the cosmetic composition, as defined above, to at least one surface
  • the present invention presents a method of photoprotecting a surface comprising at least one step of applying the cosmetic composition, as defined above, to at least one surface.
  • the present invention presents the use of the premix as defined herein to prepare cosmetic composition for photoprotection against UV radiation from the surface of an individual's skin and to improve sensitivity to touch upon application to the surface.
  • the premix can be made in solid, semi-solid or liquid form.
  • An example of a liquid form is a stable colloidal suspension that presents a downstream advantage to those who add it to a cosmetic formulation. This advantage is materialized in the reduction of mixing times, regardless of the base, as these differ from T ⁇ O2 and other available materials that are supplied in dry powder, as these require an expensive and laborious dispersion step when incorporating them into the final cosmetic mix.
  • Niobium microparticles cover various chemical entities containing Niobium, including metallic Niobium, oxides, hydrates, hydrides, carbides, or niobium nitrides.
  • the product may contain other Nb polymorphs such as NbO and NbÜ2 and these same crystalline phases in the amorphous state, in combinations and proportions between them.
  • Nb2Ü5 98% + NbÜ2 2%, partially crystalline and amorphous. In this case, 66% of this composition is crystalline.
  • the premix can be prepared with Nb2Ü587% + NbÜ2 13%. In this case, 95% of this composition is in the amorphous state.
  • Niobium Pentoxide due to its physicochemical characteristics, is demonstrated as an excellent alternative to Titanium Dioxide.
  • the evaluation of UVA and UVB photoprotection carried out with a premix containing microparticles and/or submicroparticles and, optionally, Niobium nanoparticles showed advantages over products containing Titanium Dioxide, zinc oxide and nano hydroxyapatite.
  • the product of the invention presented advantages in relation to cosmetic sensorial, with photoprotective benefits, among others.
  • Figure 1 illustrates the results of the particle size distribution analysis for the sample with a processing time of 1 h in counting frequency (%) per diameter (nm).
  • Figure 2 illustrates the results of the particle size distribution analysis for the sample with a processing time of 3h in counting frequency (%) per diameter (nm).
  • Figure 3 illustrates the results of the particle size distribution analysis for the sample with a processing time of 6h in counting frequency (%) per diameter (nm).
  • Figure 4 illustrates the results of the particle size distribution analysis for the sample with a processing time of 12h in counting frequency (%) per diameter (nm).
  • Figure 5 illustrates the results of the particle size distribution analysis for the sample with a processing time of 6h in percentage (%) of numerical density by size class (pm).
  • Figure 6 illustrates the results of the particle size distribution analysis for the sample with a processing time of 6h in percentage (%) of volumetric density by size class (pm).
  • Figure 7 illustrates the results of the particle size distribution analysis for the sample with a processing time of 12h in percentage (%) of numerical density by size class (pm).
  • Figure 8 illustrates the results of the particle size distribution analysis for the sample with a processing time of 12h in percentage (%) of volumetric density by size class (pm).
  • Figure 9 shows a comparative result between the curves obtained as described in example 1 for Pentoxide nanoparticle samples of Niobium with a processing time of 6h, making a comparison between the numerical distribution and the volumetric distribution.
  • Figure 10 shows a comparative result between the curves obtained as described in example 1 for Niobium Pentoxide nanoparticle samples with a processing time of 12h, making a comparison between the numerical distribution and the volumetric distribution.
  • Figure 1 1 shows a comparative result between the numerical density curves (%) obtained as described in example 1 for Niobium Pentoxide nanoparticle samples with processing time of 6h and 12h, making a comparison between the numerical distribution for a processing time of 6h and the numerical distribution for a processing time of 12h.
  • Figure 12 shows a comparative result between the volumetric density curves (%) obtained as described in example 1 for samples of Niobium Pentoxide nanoparticles with processing times of 6h and 12h, making a comparison between the volumetric distribution for processing time of 6h and volumetric distribution for a processing time of 12h.
  • Figure 13 shows the comparative result between all samples/products subjected to UVA and UVB tests. Shown are: A) Lotion LN10 6h 5%; B) Lotion LN10 6h 10%; C) Lotion LN10 12h 5%; D) Lotion LN10 12h 10%; E) Zinc Oxide Lotion 5%; F) Nano hydroxyapatite lotion 5%; G) Titanium dioxide lotion 5%.
  • Figure 14 shows the comparative result between samples/products applied at 5% and subjected to UVA and UVB tests. Shown are: A) Lotion LN10 6h 5%; B) Lotion LN10 12h 5%; C) Zinc Oxide Lotion 5%; D) Nano hydroxyapatite lotion 5%; E) Titanium dioxide lotion 5%.
  • Figure 15 shows the comparative result between the samples/products LN 10 6h and 12h applied at 5% and 10% and subjected to UVA and UVB tests. Shown are: A) Lotion LN10 6h 5%; B) Lotion LN10 12h 5%; C) Lotion LN10 6h 10%; D) Lotion LN10 12h 10%.
  • Figure 16 presents a comparative graph of all formulations tested in the present invention.
  • the invention provides a premix for preparing a cosmetic composition, use of the premix in preparing a cosmetic composition, a process for preparing a cosmetic composition and a cosmetic composition with improved sensory characteristics.
  • the present invention presents a premix for preparing a cosmetic composition, comprising one or more excipients and Niobium microparticles, Niobium submicroparticles or combinations thereof.
  • the premix comprises niobium submicroparticles.
  • said premix additionally comprises Niobium nanoparticles.
  • premix of the present invention benefits from the packaging of larger particles and the covering power of nanometric ones in order to achieve the technical effect of better sensitivity to touch.
  • said premix comprises at least approximately 80% Niobium particles.
  • said particles may comprise Niobium microparticles and/or Niobium Submicroparticles and, optionally, Niobium nanoparticles. This high concentration of said particles facilitates the process of preparing cosmetic compositions by distributing them to other ingredients/excipients.
  • Niobium particles cover various chemical entities containing Niobium, including Niobium metal, oxides, hydrates, hydrides , carbides, or nitrides of Niobium, iron Niobium or Niobium alloyed with other metals or transition metals, or combinations thereof. It also includes Niobium pentoxide (Nb20s), NbC and NbO.
  • the product may contain other Nb polymorphs such as NbO and NbÜ2 and these same crystalline phases in the amorphous state, in combinations and proportions between them.
  • Nb2Ü5 98% + NbÜ2 2%, partially crystalline and amorphous. In this case, 66% of this composition is crystalline.
  • the premix can be prepared with Nb2Ü5 87% + NbC 13%. In this case, 95% of this composition is in the amorphous state.
  • the premix described here has improved sensory effects.
  • said improved sensory effect is touch sensitivity.
  • the premix can be made in solid, semi-solid or liquid form.
  • the premix can be made with a stable colloidal suspension and therefore present a subsequent advantage for those who add it to a cosmetic formulation.
  • This advantage is materialized in the reduction of mixing times, regardless of the base, as these differ from T ⁇ O2 and other available materials that are supplied in dry powder, as these require an expensive and laborious dispersion step when incorporating them into the final cosmetic mix.
  • the present invention presents a process for preparing a cosmetic composition, comprising a step of mixing said premix in cosmetic excipients.
  • the present invention presents a cosmetic composition, comprising one or more excipients and Niobium microparticles, Niobium submicroparticles or combinations thereof.
  • the composition comprises niobium submicroparticles.
  • the cosmetic composition additionally comprises niobium nanoparticles.
  • the composition comprises up to approximately 10% by weight of Niobium particles.
  • compositions containing Niobium particles contain up to approximately 5% by weight of said particles.
  • said particles may comprise Niobium microparticles and/or Niobium Submicroparticles and, optionally, Niobium nanoparticles.
  • the cosmetic composition as described above presents improved sensory properties.
  • said sensory property is an improved touch sensitivity upon application to a surface.
  • the cosmetic composition additionally has photoprotection power.
  • the present invention presents a method for improving the touch sensitivity of a surface comprising at least one step of applying the cosmetic composition, as defined above, to at least one surface.
  • the present invention presents a method of photoprotecting a surface comprising at least one step of applying the cosmetic composition, as defined above, to at least one surface.
  • the present invention presents the use of the premix as defined herein to prepare cosmetic composition for photoprotection against surface UV radiation of an individual's skin and to improve sensitivity to touch upon application to the surface.
  • Niobium Pentoxide nanoparticles have a particle size distribution profile dependent on processing time.
  • Microparticles refers to particles with d10 to d100: 26.2 to 144 pm.
  • Submicroparticles refers to particles with d10 to d100: 0.3 to 5.2 pm.
  • Nanoparticles refers to particles with d10 to d100: 0.17 to 0.63 pm.
  • Sensory characteristics/effects/properties refer to attributes of the product such as color, smell, texture, freshness, irritability, spreadability, quick drying, dry touch, sensitivity to touch.
  • the premix and cosmetic composition can provide a soft focus effect, also called blur effect, which is a soft coverage effect that uniforms the surface and reflects light so that we do not notice imperfections. Thus, the aforementioned premix is useful as a general makeup primer.
  • Cosmetic composition refers to a preparation consisting of synthetic or natural substances, for external use on different parts of the human body, with the main objective of cleaning them, perfuming them, altering their appearance, correcting their odor and /or protect them or keep them in good condition.
  • This composition can be made into various liquid, semi-solid or solid cosmetic forms. Non-limiting examples are: emulsions (creams, lotions, gel-cream), suspensions, gels, ointments, solutions, sticks, powders, aerosols, among others.
  • Excipients refers to any compound in a formulation that is not the active ingredient or compound. These excipients are used in formulations to adjust different parameters, such as viscosity, active solubility, formulation stability, homogenization, etc., being available in the most diverse classes: preservatives, chelators, antioxidants, emulsifiers, gelling agents, clarifiers, surfactants, pH, vehicles, humectants, emollients, lubricants, among others.
  • Non-limiting examples that can be used in the context of the present patent application are listed below: capric/caprylic triglyceride, undecane, tridecane, propanediol, cetyl potassium phosphate, glycerin, cetyl alcohol, xanthan gum, hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2 hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, disodium edta, tocopheryl acetate, sodium hydroxide, water.
  • the search for cosmetic products is growing, as are the requirements for their acceptability on the market.
  • the premixes and compositions of the present invention have improved sensory characteristics, in addition to a photoprotective effect and blur effect, and can be used in a wide range of products.
  • cosmetics such as primers.
  • a premix and a cosmetic composition that provides a soft focus effect, also called a blur effect, which is a soft coverage effect that uniforms the surface and reflects light so that we do not notice imperfections.
  • Said premix is useful as a general makeup primer.
  • the premix can be prepared in a stable colloidal suspension and therefore presents a subsequent advantage for those who add it to a cosmetic formulation.
  • This advantage is materialized in the reduction of mixing times, regardless of the base, as these differ from T ⁇ O2 and other available materials that are supplied in dry powder, as these require an expensive and laborious dispersion step when incorporating them into the final cosmetic mix.
  • One of the objects of the invention is a skin photoprotective cosmetic composition.
  • the term “individual” should be understood as a human or animal. In one embodiment, the individual can be understood as a human being.
  • the composition is composed of particles dispersed in an oily phase comprising said ingredients/excipients.
  • Example 1 Sensory analysis
  • Example 2 Analysis of microparticles, submicroparticles and used in the examples
  • Figure 1 illustrates the results of analyzing the particle size distribution for the sample with a processing time of 1 h in counting frequency (%) per diameter (nm).
  • Figure 2 illustrates the results of analyzing the particle size distribution for the sample with a processing time of 3h in counting frequency (%) per diameter (nm).
  • Figure 3 illustrates the results of the particle size distribution analysis for the sample with a processing time of 6h in counting frequency (%) per diameter (nm).
  • Figure 4 illustrates the results of the particle size distribution analysis for the sample with a processing time of 12h in counting frequency (%) per diameter (nm).
  • Table 2 shows the parameters of the particle size distribution analysis (numerical distribution) for the Niobium Pentoxide nanoparticle sample with a processing time of 6h.
  • Table 3 shows the results of the particle size distribution analysis (numerical distribution) for the Niobium Pentoxide nanoparticle sample with a processing time of 6h. [0091] Table 3 - Analysis results for 6h sample
  • Figure 5 illustrates the results of the particle size distribution analysis for the sample with a processing time of 6h in percentage (%) of numerical density by size class (pm).
  • Table 4 details the data that served as the basis for the graph in figure 5.
  • Table 5 shows the parameters of the particle size distribution analysis (volumetric distribution) for the Niobium Pentoxide nanoparticle sample with a processing time of 6h.
  • Table 6 shows the results of the particle size distribution analysis (volumetric distribution) for the Niobium Pentoxide nanoparticle sample with a processing time of 6h.
  • Table 7 details the data that served as the basis for the graph in figure 6.
  • Table 8 shows the parameters of the particle size distribution analysis (numerical distribution) for the Niobium Pentoxide nanoparticle sample with a processing time of 12h.
  • Table 9 shows the results of the particle size distribution analysis (numerical distribution) for the Niobium Pentoxide nanoparticle sample with a processing time of 12h.
  • Figure 7 illustrates the results of the particle size distribution analysis for the sample with a processing time of 12h in percentage (%) of numerical density by size class (pm).
  • Table 10 details the data that served as the basis for the graph in figure 7.
  • Table 11 shows the parameters of the particle size distribution analysis (volumetric distribution) for the Niobium Pentoxide nanoparticle sample with a processing time of 12h.
  • Table 12 shows the results of the particle size distribution analysis (volumetric distribution) for the Niobium Pentoxide nanoparticle sample with a processing time of 12h.
  • Figure 8 illustrates the results of the particle size distribution analysis for the sample with a processing time of 12h in percentage (%) of volumetric density by size class (pm).
  • Table 13 details the data that served as the basis for the graph in figure 8.
  • Figure 9 shows a comparative result between the curves obtained as described in example 1 for Niobium Pentoxide nanoparticle samples with a processing time of 6h, making a comparison between the numerical distribution and the volumetric distribution.
  • Figure 10 shows a comparative result between the curves obtained as described in example 1 for Niobium Pentoxide nanoparticle samples with a processing time of 12h, making a comparison between the numerical distribution and the volumetric distribution.
  • Figure 1 1 shows a comparative result between the numerical density curves (%) obtained as described in example 1 for Niobium Pentoxide nanoparticle samples with processing time of 6h and 12h, making a comparison between the numerical distribution for a processing time of 6h and the numerical distribution for a processing time of 12h.
  • the method described in this example consists of evaluating the UVA protection provided by a product using a spectrophotometric method, using a substrate suitable for applying the sample. The test is based on measuring the transmittance of UV radiation by the sample that is applied to an appropriate substrate with controlled roughness. Samples are exposed to determined and controlled levels of UV radiation using an irradiation source specified by the COLIPA method. Due to possible variations in interlaboratory results, the in vivo FPS is used for the mathematical adjustment of the radiation transmission spectra through a multiplication coefficient C.
  • the sunscreen sample is exposed to an irradiation dose proportional to the initial UVA Protection Factor (FPUVAO), calculated using the transmittance data of the unexposed sample.
  • the final UVA Protection Factor (FPUVA) is calculated using the adjusted transmittance data of the sample exposed to UV radiation.
  • the method consists of measuring the UV radiation flux through the product, expressed in terms of transmittance, and comparing it with the initial UV radiation flux of the substrate without product according to the spectrophotometric principle (Eq. 1) below:
  • UVA Protection Factor FPUVA
  • Step 1 Measurement of the in vitro Absorbance A0(A) of the product spread on the PMMA substrate prior to any UV irradiation.
  • Step 2 Mathematical adjustment of the initial UV spectrum using the “C” coefficient to achieve an in vitro FPS equal to the in vivo FPS of the test sample. Then the initial UVA Protection Factor (FPUVAO) is calculated using A0(A) and C.
  • Step 4 UV irradiation of the sample according to the calculated dose D.
  • Step 5 Measure the in vitro Absorbance of the product after UV exposure. Obtaining the second UV absorption spectrum - Data from A(A).
  • Step 6 Mathematical adjustment of the second spectrum (spectrum after exposure to UV irradiation) according to the same “C” coefficient previously determined in Step 2. Then the in vitro UVA Protection Factor (FPUVA) is calculated.
  • FPUVA in vitro UVA Protection Factor
  • one of the objectives is to evaluate the behavior of a sunscreen regarding its effectiveness in UVA protection using the protocol based on the ISO 24443:2012 Determination of sunscreen UVA photoprotection in vitro.
  • the substrate is a material to which the sample is applied. It must be non-fluorescent, photostable, non-reactive and compatible with all ingredients in a formulation. Furthermore, it must distribute the product in a way similar to what occurs on human skin and, therefore, must have a textured face. For this method, PMMA plates (poly-methyl meta-acrylate HD6 - Helioplate) with a textured substrate side were used. Each product was applied to a substrate in drops evenly distributed along the plate, at a rate of 1.3 mg/cm 2 .
  • the products were spread in a standardized way with a finger protected by a disposable latex finger until a uniform film was obtained.
  • the samples were then dried at room temperature for at least 30 minutes in the dark before taking the reading.
  • a PMMA plate with 5 mg of glycerin spread on it was used to record the spectrophotometer baseline.
  • Test procedure Pre-irradiation of the plates. A single dose of irradiation was calculated from the FPUVAO value. Samples were kept below 40°C during exposure to UV radiation.
  • Each PMMA plate was read at different locations to ensure that at least 2 cm 2 was measured.
  • the PFUVAO or FPUVA of a plate is calculated through the average absorbance of all sites on the same PMMA plate. If the coefficient of variation for absorbance between different sites exceeded 50%, this plate would be rejected and a new plate would be prepared.
  • the product's FPUVAO or FPUVA is the average of the FPUVAO or FPUVA of at least 3 individual boards. If the coefficients of variation between the FPUVAO or FPUVA of the individual plates exceeded 20% then new plates would be prepared until the criterion for the coefficient of variation was reached.
  • FPUVA UVA Protection Factor
  • the 5% Zinc Oxide Lotion product code IPC.2022.3316, presented an average UVA Protection Factor (FPUVA) equal to 4.0 and a critical wavelength equal to 381.8nm.
  • FPUVA UVA Protection Factor
  • Nano Hydroxyapatite Lotion 5% code IPC.2022.3317
  • FPUVA UVA Protection Factor
  • FPUVA UVA Protection Factor
  • the solar spectrum is made up of a series of radiations, and almost all of them can act in a beneficial way. However, when the amount of energy absorbed is greater than the tolerable dose, risks are inevitable.
  • the main solar radiations are: Infrared rays, responsible for the feeling of heat and dehydration of the skin during exposure to the sun; UVA (320-400nm), tans superficially, however, it contributes to premature skin aging, induced by prolonged sun exposure; pass through most common glass. Depending on the thickness of the skin, they can reach dermal tissues, which makes them as dangerous as higher energy wavelengths (UVB).
  • UVA range can be subdivided into low UVA, from 320-340 nm, responsible for the vast majority of the physiological effects of UVA on the skin, and high UVA, from 340-400 nm, responsible for very small changes in elastic fibers; UVB (290-320 nm) are considered more harmful than UVA radiation. They have little penetration into the skin, but due to their high energy, they are most responsible for immediate damage from solar radiation. and for much of the late damage. They are also responsible for transforming epidermal ergosterol into vitamin D. In excess, they cause erythema (sunburn), premature aging and skin cancer, mainly affecting people with fair skin; UVC (100-290nm), are quite harmful, do not stimulate tanning and cause sunburn and cancer.
  • the sun protection factor or SPF is intended to indicate to the consumer the degree of protection provided by the product.
  • the great variability of solar radiation and different skin types force the consumer to know their own skin and define which SPF is best suited to their case.
  • the higher the FPS value the higher the level of protection.
  • To choose the FPS compatible with a given skin type one should not take into account the parts of the body most exposed to the sun, such as arms or face, as these regions are in direct and constant contact with the sun and, therefore, respond in a negative way. differently to its effects.
  • SPF measurement methods are based on the appearance of erythema on the skin. It is therefore necessary to standardize the way this erythema is measured.
  • minimum erythematic dose is defined as the amount of energy required to produce the first noticeable erythematic reaction with clearly defined borders, observed between 16-24 hours after exposure to ultraviolet radiation.
  • the minimum erythematogenous dose (MED) depends on the individual's skin type, amount of melanin in the skin, the length and intensity of the incident wave.
  • Individuals can be classified into six groups that are also called phototypes, which are estimated through personal history of burns and tanning, after exposure for 30 to 50 minutes in the midday sun, after a period without exposure. The phototypes have the characteristics described in table 2.
  • SPF is defined as the ratio between the amount of ultraviolet energy required to produce an erythematic dose in protected skin in relation to the energy required to produce an erythematic dose in unprotected skin.
  • the objective of the tests is to determine the Static Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the test products using the Protocol based on the ISO 24444:2019 standard - Cosmetics — Sun protection test methods — In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF).
  • SPF Static Sun Protection Factor
  • Inclusion criteria Age 18 to 65 years; phototypes I to III; Male and female; Individual typological angle (ITA S ) greater than 28 s - determined by colorimetry.
  • Non-inclusion/exclusion criteria Skin marks in the experimental area that interfere with the assessment of possible skin reactions (pigmentation disorders, vascular malformations, scars, increased hairiness, large amounts of ephelides and nevi, sunburn); Active dermatoses (local and disseminated) that could interfere with the study results; Pregnant or breastfeeding women; History of allergic reactions, irritation or intense sensations of discomfort to topical products: cosmetics and medicines; Participants with a history of allergy to the material used in the study; History of atopy; History of pathologies aggravated or triggered by ultraviolet radiation; People with immunodeficiencies; Kidney, heart or liver transplants; Intense sun exposure or tanning session up to 15 days before the initial assessment; Expected intense sun exposure or tanning session during the study period; Plan to take a swim in the sea, swimming pool or sauna during the study; Participants who practice water sports; Use of the following systemic topical medications: immunosuppressants, antihistamines, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory
  • the minimum erythematogenous dose is considered to be the amount of radiant energy necessary to produce the least noticeable and undoubted redness, evaluated 16 to 24 hours after exposure.
  • MED erythematogenous dose
  • Each participant's MED was determined by a sequence of exposure to ultraviolet light, with intensity (MED/minute) increased in geometric progression, with each exposure graduated with an increase of 12% in relation to the previous one (1.12n). After 16-24 hours of irradiation, a local dermatological examination was carried out to check the spots with the appearance of erythema.
  • FPS Calculation The FPS value is defined by the ratio between the time needed to produce a MED on skin protected with a product containing sunscreen (MEDp) and the time needed to produce a MED on unprotected skin (MEDu). Thus, the FPS is calculated by Eq. 3.
  • the FPS value was calculated for each participant. For the panel of participants, the average FPS, standard deviation and lower limit of the 95% confidence interval were calculated.
  • Tables 27-32 show the results obtained for the product samples in Table 14-19, respectively, and the standard product P2 (PFS 13.7 to 18.5).
  • a comparative FPS UVA-B efficacy screening was carried out between materials containing microparticles and/or submicroparticles and, optionally, nanoparticles and the market inorganic filters Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide and Nano Hydroxyapatite.
  • UVA FPS 320-400 nm
  • Static FPS Screening reflects the level of protection against UVB rays (290-320 nm) offered by a cosmetic product after application to dry skin, with a minimum drying time of 15 minutes . Tests were carried out with the aim of identifying the estimated protection factor for each of the samples at concentrations of use similar to those used in the physical photoprotector market.
  • UVA rays are characterized by superficially tanning the skin, contributing to its premature aging, induced by prolonged sun exposure. These rays pass through most common glass. Depending on the thickness of the skin, they can reach dermal tissues, which makes them as dangerous as higher energy wavelengths (UVB).
  • UVA range can be subdivided into low UVA, from 320-340nm, responsible for the vast majority of the physiological effects of UVA on the skin, and high UVA, from 340-400nm, responsible for very small changes in elastic fibers. UVB rays (290-320nm) are considered more harmful than UVA radiation.
  • Figure 13 shows a general overview of the results in which Nano hydroxyapatite at 5% showed the lowest absorption for UVA radiation and LN10 at 10% showed the highest absorption for UVB (static SPF).
  • the sample IPC.2023.1682 - Nb micro 5% particles presented an average UVA protection factor (FPUVA) equal to 4.25 and a critical wavelength equal to 377.0 nm.
  • FPUVA average UVA protection factor
  • the sample IPC.2023.1683 - Nb micro 10% particles showed an average UVA protection factor (FPUVA) equal to 8.5 and a critical wavelength equal to 378.0 nm.
  • FPUVA average UVA protection factor
  • Example 8 comparison with sub-micro size Niobium particle samples
  • Sample I PC.2023.1 163 - 5% sub-micro Nb particles presented an average UVA protection factor (FPUVA) equal to 6.5 and a critical wavelength equal to 378.0 nm.
  • FPUVA average UVA protection factor
  • the sample IPC.2023.1162 - 10% sub-micro Nb particles presented an average UVA protection factor (FPUVA) equal to 8.75 and a critical wavelength equal to 379.0 nm.
  • FPUVA average UVA protection factor
  • Niobium microparticles and/or submicroparticles are very promising materials as a physical photoprotector, in addition to presenting surprising results in relation to softness/sensitivity to touch as shown by sensory testing.
  • Example 10 Cytotoxicity (evaluates cell death when in contact with viable cells)
  • the compounds NIONE LN 10006-6H and NIONE LN 10006-12H are considered non-cytotoxic from a concentration of 0.78 mg/g;
  • the compounds NIONE LN 10006-6H and NIONE LN 10006-12H are considered non-cytotoxic from a concentration of 0.20 mg/g.
  • the depositor when depositing this request with the competent/guarantor body, seeks and intends to: (i) name the authors/inventors in respect of their respective moral, copyright and property rights related to their works; (ii) unequivocally indicate that it holds the secret of business or industrial and holder of any form of intellectual property that derives therefrom and the depositor desires; (iii) describe in detail the content of the creations and the secret, proving their existence on a physical and legal level; (iv) obtain protection for your spirit creations, as provided for in the Copyright Law; (v) establish the relationship between the examples/concretions and the creative, ornamental, distinctive or inventive concept according to the depositor's cognition and their context, to clearly demonstrate the scope of their protected and/or guardianable intangible asset; (vi) request and obtain additional rights provided for patents, if the applicant chooses to continue with the administrative procedure until the end.
  • any future disclosure or publication of this document does not, in itself, constitute authorization for commercial use by third parties. Even if the content becomes part of the physical world accessible to third parties, the disclosure and publication of this document in accordance with the law does not eliminate the legal status of secret, serving only the spirit of the Law to: (i) serve as proof that the creator created the objects described here and expressed them in a physical medium, which is this report itself; (ii) unequivocally indicate its owner/holder and authors/inventor(s); (iii) inform third parties regarding the existence of the creations and the aforementioned industrial secret, the content for which intellectual protection is required or will be required under the terms of the Law, including patent protection and the date of its deposit, from which it will have rights of priority and the term of patent exclusivity may begin, if applicable; and (iv) assist in the technological and economic development of the country, from the revelation of the creation, if this occurs, and the authorization of the use of the secret solely and exceptionally for the purposes of studies and/or development of new improvements, thus

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne les domaines de la cosmétologie et des sciences associées. Plus spécifiquement, l'invention concerne un prémélange pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique, un processus de préparation d'une composition cosmétique et une composition cosmétique à propriétés sensorielles améliorées. L'invention concerne également un procédé pour améliorer la sensibilité au toucher d'une surface et un procédé de photoprotection d'une surface. Le prémélange et la composition de l'invention comprennent des microparticules et/ou des sous-microparticules de niobium et permettent d'obtenir des effets avantageux et surprenants. Dans un mode de réalisation, le prémélange et la composition de l'invention comprennent en outre des nanoparticules de niobium.
PCT/BR2024/050016 2023-01-18 2024-01-18 Prémélange et procédé pour préparer une composition cosmétique, composition cosmétique, procédé pour améliorer la sensibilité au toucher d'une surface, procédé de photoprotection d'une surface et utilisation du prémélange WO2024152095A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
BR1020230009310 2023-01-18
BR102023000931-0A BR102023000931A2 (pt) 2023-01-18 Premix e processo para preparar uma composição cosmética, composição cosmética e uso

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0801941A1 (fr) * 1995-11-22 1997-10-22 Shiseido Company Limited Produits cosmetiques
BR0016090A (pt) * 1999-12-01 2002-10-29 Isis Innovation Partìcula, processo para preparar a mesma, composição de proteção contra uv, e, uso de partìculas
US20030219391A1 (en) * 2002-02-28 2003-11-27 L'oreal Dispersed powders providing ultraviolet light protection, suitable for use in cosmetic compositions
US20080277630A1 (en) * 2004-06-25 2008-11-13 Reiko Kiyoshima Metal Colloidal Particles, Metal Colloid and Use of Metal Colloid
CA2606380C (fr) * 2005-05-03 2011-08-02 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions comprenant des agregats et/ou des agglomerats de particules discretes destinees a l'application aux fibres keratineuses

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0801941A1 (fr) * 1995-11-22 1997-10-22 Shiseido Company Limited Produits cosmetiques
BR0016090A (pt) * 1999-12-01 2002-10-29 Isis Innovation Partìcula, processo para preparar a mesma, composição de proteção contra uv, e, uso de partìculas
US20030219391A1 (en) * 2002-02-28 2003-11-27 L'oreal Dispersed powders providing ultraviolet light protection, suitable for use in cosmetic compositions
US20080277630A1 (en) * 2004-06-25 2008-11-13 Reiko Kiyoshima Metal Colloidal Particles, Metal Colloid and Use of Metal Colloid
CA2606380C (fr) * 2005-05-03 2011-08-02 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions comprenant des agregats et/ou des agglomerats de particules discretes destinees a l'application aux fibres keratineuses

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