WO2024134082A1

WO2024134082A1 - Novel uses of a phaeodactylum tricornutum extract

Info

Publication number: WO2024134082A1
Application number: PCT/FR2023/052047
Authority: WO
Inventors: Cyrielle HOUDIN; Rémi PRADELLES
Original assignee: Microphyt
Priority date: 2022-12-19
Filing date: 2023-12-19
Publication date: 2024-06-27
Also published as: FR3143367A1

Abstract

The present invention in particular relates to the cosmetic use of a Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract to maintain and/or increase the volume of the skin and/or lips, and/or to plump up the skin, advantageously the skin of the face, and/or the lips, and/or fill the sunk-in areas of the face. The extract is effective to plump up the skin and lips.

Description

DESCRIPTION

TITLE: New uses of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to new uses of an extract of the microalgae Phaeodactylum tricornutum, in particular in the cosmetic and nutraceutical fields.

STATE OF THE ART

The skin is a major organ protecting the body against environmental attacks such as cold, wind, pollution, but also against toxins and bacterial attacks. It is a complex structure made up of three successive layers, the dermis, the dermis and the hypodermis. The epidermis corresponds to the outermost layer. The dermis or corion is located below the epidermis and is made up of 2 layers, the reticular layer in contact with the hypodermis and the papillary layer in contact with the epidermis. The hypodermis is the deepest layer, mainly made up of adipocytes and blood vessels.

It is the dermis that gives the skin its suppleness and elasticity. The dermis in fact includes the constituent elastin and collagen fibers which provide the properties of the dermis. But the dermis also includes connective tissue. This connective tissue, also called fundamental substance, is mainly made up of hyaluronic acid. It is the fundamental substance that gives the skin its volume. Hyaluronic acid is a cross-linked glycosaminoglycan (GAG) polymer present in all connective, epithelial and nervous tissues in humans. It is synthesized by fibroblasts. It consists of D-glucuronic acid and D-N-acetylglucosamine linked together by B-1,4 and B-1,3 glycosidic bonds. Its role in the skin is one of filling and tissue cohesion.

If the skin becomes looser with age, it is, among other things, due to a decrease in the quantity of collagen and elastin fibers. The reduction in cell renewal, in particular of fibroblasts present in the extracellular matrix (ECM), is also one of the causes of skin sagging. The skin loses its elasticity and firmness, wrinkles appear. Certain factors such as tobacco, an unbalanced diet, pollution or UV rays are aggravating factors and accelerate these signs of aging. Hormonal changes or significant weight loss can also cause visible skin sagging. However, if the loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin are relatively easy causes to understand, the loss of volume with age is more difficult to describe.

However, loss of volume is a distinct cause of loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin, which also contributes to skin aging. This loss of volume causes sagging of the skin, in particular of the face, in particular of the oval of the face, visibly changing the shape of the face and its expression. The plump cheeks and cheekbones of a young person become flat, the rim of the mouth becomes drooping, the face becomes hollow. The decrease in certain proteins of the fundamental substance explains this phenomenon, in particular the decrease in the production of hyaluronic acid.

As such and to counteract this loss of volume, the best-known active ingredient is precisely hyaluronic acid. Other invasive techniques, such as hyaluronic acid injections, exist, but provide a temporary effect.

There is therefore a need to develop alternative solutions, which are natural and non-invasive, aimed at stimulating and/or increasing the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in the fundamental substance, for a plumping and volumizing effect on the skin.

Unexpectedly, the Applicant discovered that an extract of P. tricornutum solved the technical problem posed by its ability to increase the volume of the skin, therefore to plump it, by increasing the quantity of hyaluronic acid at the level of the substance. fundamental.

An advantage of the extract according to the invention is that it is a perfectly natural extract, non-irritating to the skin. Another advantage is that it is very easily produced on an industrial scale, via biomass production in photobioreactors under controlled conditions. It can also be easily incorporated into a cosmetic formulation. The extract is free of chlorophyll and obtained with the use of a biosourced solvent. In addition, the plumping effect of the extract is obtained without invasive intervention or microsurgery, which provides an undeniable advantage compared to injection techniques aimed at the same effect, which result in hematomas and redness.

The extract according to the invention comes from an extraction of the biomass of the microalga P. tricornutum. Phaeodactylum tricornutum is a diatom belonging to the genus Phaeodactylum and the family Phaeodactylaceae, present in 3 distinct morphotypes (fusiform, oval, triradiate) found in many oceanic regions of the world, including northern Europe, Oceania, and the Atlantic.

The use of extracts of the microalgae P. tricornutum in cosmetics, in particular an aqueous extract of P. tricornutum, is known from the prior art, to reduce redness of the skin, relieve sensitive skin, or improve the skin microbiota. sensitive skin (W02020178213), an extract of P. tricornutum as an active depigmenting agent for reducing or removing pigment spots on the skin or lightening the complexion (FR2913336) or an extract of P. tricornutum for improving firmness and skin elasticity and reduce wrinkles (W002/080876).

But none of these documents describes the use of an extract of P. tricornutum to maintain and/or increase the volume of the skin nor an effect on maintaining and/or increasing the quantity of hyaluronic acid at the level of the fundamental substance.

Thus, to the knowledge of the applicant, the use of any extract of P. tricornutum to maintain and/or increase the volume of the skin and/or lips has never been described.

STATEMENT OF THE INVENTION

A first object of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of P. tricornutum to maintain and/or increase the volume of the skin and/or lips.

Another object relates to a cosmetic treatment process for maintaining and/or increasing the volume of the skin and/or lips, and/or for plumping up the skin and/or lips, and/or filling hollow areas of the face comprising the oral administration or topical application, preferably topical application, of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum as defined according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it.

A final subject concerns an extract of P. tricornutum or a dermatological or pharmaceutical composition comprising it for its use to promote healing of the skin, in particular of people with damaged skin and/or lips, wounds, lesions and/or or superficial wounds.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

A first object therefore concerns the cosmetic use of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum to maintain and/or increase the volume of the skin and/or lips. According to a particular mode, the extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum is used according to the invention to plump the skin, advantageously the skin of the face, and/or the lips, and/or fill hollow areas of the face.

Here we mean “cosmetic use” a non-therapeutic use, therefore non-pharmaceutical or dermatological according to a specialist in the field, a dermatologist, that is to say which is not intended to treat skin or lips requiring treatment. therapeutic. Thus said use is advantageously intended for healthy skin and/or lips. The term “healthy skin or lip” means any area of skin or lip classified as non-pathological by a dermatologist, that is to say an area of skin or lip not showing, for example, injury, redness, infection, scar, allergy, wound, disease, eczema, inflammation, injury, acne and/or dermatitis. The use is therefore not intended to treat skin and/or lips presenting a pathology but to prevent and/or improve aesthetic disorders induced by a loss of volume of the skin and/or lips.

The use of the extract according to the invention can be by oral administration or by topical application.

Preferably, this is a topical application. By “topical application” is meant the application to at least one area of the skin or lips or the vaporization on the surface of at least one area of the skin of the extract according to the invention or of a composition thereof. including.

The extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum used according to the invention or the composition comprising it is topically acceptable, that is to say that it does not induce an allergic reaction, is not toxic or irritating. The extract according to the invention or the composition comprising it can be applied or sprayed on at least one area of skin chosen from any area of the face and/or body, and/or on the lips. By “any area of the body” is meant any area of the arms, legs, thighs, back, torso, chest, neck, feet and/or hands, and/or buttocks. By “any area of the face” is meant any area chosen from the cheeks, cheekbones, forehead, contour of the nose, nasolabial fold, temples, contour of the eyes, chin, and/or contour of the mouth. The Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract used according to the invention or the composition comprising it is advantageously applied to any area of the face, in particular to the cheeks, cheekbones, eye contour, and lips, to plump them up and restore them. volume. In terms of the face, the loss of volume mainly affects the central region of the face, with a flattening of the cheekbones which combines with the sagging of the cheeks and reveals dark circles, the valley of tears and the nasolabial fold. The loss of volume also affects the forehead, which loses its convexity and brings out the relief of the eyebrow arches, as well as the temples which deepen from the age of forty.

In particular, the extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum used according to the invention is intended to plump and restore volume to the skin and/or lips of people with sunken areas of the face, in particular at the level of the cheeks, cheekbones, contours eyes and lips. Loss of volume of the skin on the face can occur with aging but also in thin people. Thus, the cheeks, cheekbones and dark circles under the eyes tend to deepen and lose volume. We will therefore seek, particularly in people with hollow areas on the face, to fill these hollow areas to reshape the face and give volume to the eyes, for a rejuvenated and less tired appearance.

The term “maintain and/or increase the volume of the skin and/or lips” is also understood to mean maintaining and/or increasing the quantity of hyaluronic acid at the level of the fundamental substance of the skin and/or lips, advantageously the facial skin and/or lips. By “amount of hyaluronic acid” we mean the amount of hyaluronic acid proteins. We can thus clearly distinguish the volumizing effect of the extract used according to the invention on the skin or lips, that is to say a plumping effect, effects on the firmness and/or elasticity of the skin described previously which play on other mechanisms and proteins of the skin.

By “increase the volume of the skin and/or lips”, according to the invention is also meant to improve the remodeling of the skin and/or lips under the plumping effect of the extract used according to the invention.

P. tricornutum extract

Method of producing microalgae

The extract used according to the invention is obtained from the microalga P. tricornutum cultivated under controlled conditions within suitable systems such as open culture ponds of the “race-ways” or “open ponds” type or closed systems. photobioreactors type. The photobioreactors used can be of any existing type such as horizontal or vertical tubular photobioreactors such as so-called “green wall panel” systems, flat or columnar photobioreactors. Preferably, the production of biomass is carried out within a closed culture system of the photobioreactor type. The microalgae is cultivated using batch, fed-batch, continuous, semi-continuous, turbidostat or chemostat culture methods.

Obtaining crude extracts from these microalgae

The extract of P. tricornutum obtained according to one or other of the embodiments below is also called "crude extract" or "dry extract" according to the invention, distinct from the oily extract described below. corresponding to the crude (or dry) extract dispersed in an oil.

The biomass obtained from the culture can be used fresh or frozen and/or dried before the preparation of the extract used according to the invention. It can be concentrated by eliminating all or part of the water using processes such as centrifugation, filtration, flocculation, sedimentation, coupled, or not, with drying stages by freeze-drying, vacuum drying, drying drum, atomization or any process allowing to reduce the water content of the biomass. Cell lysis processes can then be implemented such as the application of pressure, electrical flows, shearing forces, the use of enzymes, or any other process allowing the destructuring of tissues, organs, cells or organelles. .

By “dry biomass” is meant here a dehydrated microalgal biomass comprising less than 15%, advantageously less than 10%, even advantageously less than 5% water. Preferably in the context of the invention, the biomass obtained after cultivation is frozen before drying. The biomass can be centrifuged beforehand and then filtered to eliminate residual water before extraction.

In one embodiment of the invention, the extraction of the biomass is a solid-liquid extraction in the presence of a solvent or solvent mixture chosen from water, acetone, hexane, acetate ethyl, methyltetrahydrofuran, 2-methyloxolane, heptane, an alcohol chosen from ethanol, methanol, isopropanol, a natural or branched oil, a glycol, a polyol, an alcohol/water mixture, or glycol /water in a proportion of 99/1 to 1/99 (w/v).

The solid-liquid extraction of biomass according to the invention is generally carried out from a quantity of biomass of 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 1% to 20%, very advantageously from 5% to 15%. , and even more advantageously 10% by weight relative to the total volume of the biomass and the extraction solvent. The extraction can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 4°C to 300°C, including ambient temperature, that is to say a temperature of 20°C. It is advantageously carried out at a temperature between 20°C C and 50° C, even advantageously at 30° C.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the extraction of the biomass is carried out in water under subcritical conditions, at a temperature ranging from 100°C to 300°C, advantageously from 120°C to 250°C, still advantageously at 120°C. Extraction can be carried out at a given temperature or at successive increasing temperatures. In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extraction is carried out at a temperature of 120°C. In an alternative mode, it will be carried out according to a gradient of three increasing temperatures between 100°C and 200°C, such as 120°C, 140°C then 160°C or 110°C, 130°C then 150°C , or 120°C, 145°C then 170°C.

Extraction in “subcritical conditions” means extraction in the presence of water, under conditions of temperature greater than 100°C and pressure less than 221 bars, the water remaining in the liquid state but having a viscosity and a surface tension lower than that of water at room temperature, increasing its dielectric constant. Thus, the extraction pressure is between 150 bars and 250 bars, preferably between 200 and 221 bars, advantageously in a pressure extraction autoclave.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the extraction of the biomass is carried out by supercritical CO2 extraction. In this case, said extraction can optionally be carried out in the presence of a co-solvent chosen from ethanol, acetone, methanol or any combination thereof. Alternatively, the supercritical CO2 extraction can be carried out alone without the presence of a co-solvent and continued by an additional extraction with a polar solvent chosen from ethanol, acetone, methanol, hexane, heptane, advantageously ethanol. Advantageously in the context of the invention, the supercritical CO2 extraction is carried out in the presence of ethanol (10%) as co-solvent. The supercritical CO2 extraction conditions are such that the pressure measured in bar is greater than 74 bars, advantageously greater than 100 bars, even advantageously more than 150 bars. The temperature is greater than 35° C, advantageously greater than 45° C, still advantageously more than 50° C.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract of P. tricornutum is obtained by extraction in an alcohol/water mixture, in a proportion of 99/1 to 1/99 (w/v), advantageously still in proportion from 95/5 to 90/10 (w/v). We speak of 'solid-liquid' extraction. According to a particularly preferred method, the crude extract is obtained by extraction in an ethanol/water mixture in a 90/10 (w/v) proportion.

Thus in a preferred mode of the invention, the crude extract is obtained from the frozen then dried biomass of P. tricornutum, by solid-liquid extraction in the ethanol/water mixture in a 90/10 (w/v) proportion. at 30° C. The quantity of biomass used for the extraction is 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the biomass and the ethanol/water mixture. The crude extract obtained is decolorized with activated carbon then filtered under the conditions described in Example 1 a). The residual ethanol is evaporated then the extract can be used as is ("crude extract") in powder form or dispersed in an oil (we will then speak of "oily extract" or "oily preparation" according to the invention ) or incorporated into a final cosmetic composition (incorporation of the crude extract or advantageously the oily extract into the final cosmetic composition).

According to another preferred embodiment, the crude extract is obtained from the frozen and then dried biomass of P. tricornutum, by extraction with supercritical CO2 at a temperature of 50° C. and a pressure of 150 bars in the presence of ethanol. as a co-solvent (10%). The extract obtained is rinsed with water then filtered under the conditions described in Example 1 b).

The extract according to the invention can be used as is (crude extract) in the form of powder or dispersed in an oil (we will speak of an “oily preparation” or “oily extract” according to the invention), or incorporated into a cosmetic composition. final (incorporation of the crude extract or advantageously the oily extract in the final cosmetic composition) with a “cosmetically acceptable excipient” that is to say an excipient that is non-irritating to the skin or lips and non-toxic. The excipient is advantageously chosen from natural oils, in particular vegetable oils, such as argan oil, shea oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil. , or any oil extracted from a plant or algae, including a microalgae, in particular chosen from olive oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, an oil medium chain triglycerides (MCT), additional oils such as C11 -C13 alkanes, ester oils and their mixtures, preservatives, emulsifiers, emollients, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, texturing agents , conditioners, shine agents, texturing agents, film-forming agents, pigments, dyes, perfumes, biological additives, chelating agents, astringent agents, polymers, reducing agents, temperature regulating agents pH, humectants, conditioning agents, and mixtures thereof. Oily preparation (otherwise called “oily extract” according to the invention)

According to a particular mode, the extract used according to the invention is dispersed in at least one vegetable oil to form an 'oily preparation' (or 'oily extract'), which can be used as is or constitute an intermediate preparation of a final composition comprising other additional ingredients.

According to a particular mode, the extract used according to the invention can be dispersed in any oil extracted from a plant or an algae, including a microalgae, in particular chosen from olive oil, rapeseed oil, flaxseed oil, sunflower oil, medium chain triglyceride (MCT) oil. By medium chain triglycerides (MCT), we mean esters of glycerol and saturated fatty acids, the hydrocarbon chain of which has 6 to 12 carbon atoms. An MCT oil can thus be chosen from coconut oil, advantageously coconut oil, palm kernel oil and palm oil but can be obtained from other fats or oils. Advantageously within the meaning of the invention, the vegetable oil is an MCT oil, very advantageously coconut oil.

According to a particular mode, said oil is present in an amount by weight ranging from 50 to 99.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously from 75% to 99.5%, very advantageously in an amount ranging from 97, 5% to 99.4%, again advantageously ranging from 98% to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, otherwise called oily preparation when the oil content represents 97.5% to 99.4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This oily preparation can be used as is or serve as an intermediate preparation for a nutraceutical composition or a cosmetic composition further comprising other cosmetic ingredients and excipients such as those described above.

Thus in a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oily preparation comprises coconut oil. According to a particular and preferred mode, a quantity of coconut oil ranging from 97.5 to 99.4% by weight, advantageously ranging from 98 to 99% by weight, is added to the crude extract obtained according to examples 1 a) or 1 b). weight relative to the total weight of the oily preparation.

According to a particular and preferred mode, said oily preparation also advantageously comprises an antioxidant and preferably vitamin E in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily preparation. Advantageously, vitamin E is present in an amount of 0.25% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily preparation. Here we mean “vitamin E” a selected tocopherol from a-tocopherol, y-tocopherol, B-tocopherol or ô-tocopherol, or a tocotrienol chosen from a-tocotrienol, B-tocotrienol, y-tocotrienol or ô-tocotrienol. Advantageously, it is a-tocopherol.

Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the extract is in the form of an oily extract comprising (i) from 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably an extract as defined in claim 3 or 4 (ii) from 97.5 to 99.4%, preferably from 98 to 99% by weight of a vegetable oil relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably a medium-chain triglyceride (MCT) oil and more preferably a coconut oil and (iii) from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably 0.25% by weight of an antioxidant, preferably vitamin E. In particular, the oily extract comprises 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight weight of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum prepared according to Example 1a).

This oily preparation (or oily extract) can be used as is or used as an intermediate composition in the preparation of a final composition.

Final composition

By “final composition” according to the invention is meant a composition comprising a) the crude (or dry) extract, or advantageously the oily extract according to the invention, consisting of at least one vegetable oil such as those described above and in particular a coconut oil, and advantageously also an antioxidant in particular vitamin E, and b) at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient and one or more additional ingredients chosen from additional oils such as vegetable oils in particular chosen from argan oil, shea oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, or any oil extracted from a plant or algae, including microalgae, in particular chosen from olive oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, a medium chain triglyceride (MCT) oil, C11 -C13 alkanes, ester oils and their mixtures, preservatives, emulsifiers, emollients, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, texturing agents, conditioners, shine agents, texturing agents, film-forming agents, pigments, dyes, fragrances, biological additives, chelating agents, astringent agents, polymers, reducing agents, pH regulating agents, humectants, conditioning agents, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also further comprise any active cosmetic ingredient having the same effect of maintaining and/or increasing the volume of the skin and/or the lips such as hyaluronic acid, or a complementary effect, in particular an anti-aging ingredient that is anti-wrinkle or improves the firmness of the skin, an active ingredient on cell renewal, a so-called anti-pollution ingredient, a lightening active ingredient or active on the uniformity of skin tone, and their mixtures.

The extract used according to the invention can also be combined with one or more other algae or microalgae extracts including an aqueous extract or a lipophilic extract of Porphyridium cruentum, advantageously as an anti-aging and protective active ingredient against the combined effects of UV and pollution; and/or a hydrolyzate of co-product of extraction of Phaeodactylum tricornutum, in particular useful for exfoliating the skin and/or reducing the microrelief of the skin, and advantageously a hydrolyzate of co-product of ethanolic extraction of P. tricornutum and/or an extract of the microalgae Tisochrysis lutea, in particular as an active ingredient to improve the comfort of sensitive skin.

The extract according to the invention can also be combined with an extract of the microalga Dunaliella salina, in particular a hydroalcoholic extract, the alcohol advantageously being a CrCô alcohol, even advantageously ethanol, or a supercritical CO2 extract of the microalgae Dunaliella salina.

According to a particular and preferred mode, the Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract used according to the invention is considered effective in increasing the volume of the skin and/or lips when this increase is at least 1%, advantageously at least 2% and very advantageously at least 4% in the presence of said extract in vivo, in comparison with the volume of the skin or lips evaluated in vivo without adding extract. This increase in skin volume is notably evaluated by taking 3D side photographs of the faces at the cheek level, analyzed using a specific image analysis technique well known to those skilled in the art.

Thus, we will advantageously use in a final composition of the invention, a content of extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum according to the invention, preferably of oily extract according to the invention ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0 .5 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 3% by weight, advantageously 0.75% to 2% by weight, more advantageously 1% to 1.5% by weight and in particular 1, 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

More preferably, the oily extract is present in a final composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 1.5%, and better still 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition. According to a particular and preferred mode, the oily extract according to the invention comprises an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum dispersed in coconut oil and comprising vitamin E, preferably in the following proportions: (i) from 0.5 to 2 % by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably 1.5% by weight, of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum, in particular that prepared according to Example 1 a), (ii) from 97.5 to 99.4 %, preferably from 98 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract of an MCT oil, in particular a coconut oil, and (iii) from 0.1% to 0.5%, of preferably 0.25% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract of an antioxidant, preferably vitamin E.

More preferably, the oily extract comprises (i) 1.5% by weight of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum, (ii) 98 to 99% by weight of a coconut oil and (iii) 0.25% by weight. weight of vitamin E relative to the total weight of the oily extract. Which results in a quantity of dry extract (active material) of Phaeodactylum tricornutum in the final composition ranging from 0.0015 to 0.15% by weight, preferably from 0.0075 to 0.075% by weight, in particular from 0.0075 to 0.045% by weight, advantageously from 0.01125% to 0.03% by weight, still advantageously from 0.015% to 0.0225% by weight and in particular at 0.00225% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

According to a preferred mode, the oily extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum prepared according to example 1 a) will be used in a content ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (oily preparation or final composition). Which results in a quantity of dry extract (active material) of Phaeodactylum tricornutum in the final composition ranging from 0.015 to 0.03% by weight, preferably 0.0225% by weight and in particular 0.00225% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

Galenic

The cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin and/or lips may be in the form of a powder, a cream, a serum, a soap, a shower gel, an oily solution, an oil-in-water emulsion or an emulsion. water in oil, a mask, a lotion, a mousse or even a lipstick or lip balm. The composition can also be in the form of a patch or be encapsulated in a form chosen from spheres, microspheres, liposomes. Advantageously, the composition is in the form of a cream or serum. When the composition is for oral administration intended for nutraceutical application, it may be in powder form and is then present in the form of capsules, capsules, tablets, lozenges, liquid or loose powder.

The cosmetic composition is useful for maintaining and/or increasing the quantity of hyaluronic acid, for maintaining and/or increasing the volume of the skin and/or lips. The cosmetic composition has a plumping effect on the skin, advantageously on the skin of the face and lips, makes it possible to fill hollow areas of the face, and can be used for this purpose.

Cosmetic process

Another object relates to a cosmetic treatment process for maintaining and/or increasing the volume of the skin and/or lips, and/or for plumping up the skin and/or lips, and/or filling hollow areas of the face comprising the oral administration or topical application, preferably topical application, of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum as defined according to the invention, preferably an oily extract as defined above or a cosmetic composition comprising it.

In particular, the method according to the invention is intended for people with a loss of volume in the central region of the face, such as people who are at least 40 years old, in particular at least 50 years old, or even at least 60 years old. , or emaciated people. These people may in particular have a flattening of the cheekbones, cheeks and hollow dark circles, a more marked nasolabial fold, sunken temples and/or thinned lips. We will therefore seek, particularly in people with hollow areas on the face, to fill these hollow areas to reshape the face and give volume to the eyes, for a rejuvenated and less tired appearance.

In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic treatment method comprises the topical application of the extract according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it on at least one area of skin, advantageously skin healthy, and/or at least one lip area, advantageously healthy, the skin area being chosen from any area of the face and/or any area of the body chosen from the arms, including forearms, legs, thighs , back, torso, chest, neck, neckline, buttocks, feet and/or hands, advantageously on any hollow area of the skin of the face chosen from the cheeks, cheekbones, forehead, contour of the nose, the nasolabial fold, the temples, the contour of the eyes, the chin, the contour of the mouth, and/or on the lips, preferably the cheeks, cheekbones, nasolabial fold, temples, eye contour, mouth contour, and/or on the lips.

The extract used in the cosmetic process is as defined previously.

In particular, we will use an oily extract or a final composition comprising it, as described above.

In an advantageous embodiment, the crude (or dry) extract of P. tricornutum is as defined in the present invention. Preferably, it is a crude extract obtained in an alcohol/water mixture, in a proportion of 99/1 to 1/99 (w/v), advantageously still in a proportion of 95/5 to 90/10 (w/ v), very advantageously in an ethanol/water mixture in a 90/10 (w/v) proportion.

According to a particular and preferred mode, the oily extract according to the invention will be used comprising an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum dispersed in coconut oil and comprising vitamin E, preferably in the following proportions: (i) 0.5 at 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum relative to the total weight of the oily extract, in particular that prepared according to Example 1 a), (ii) from 97.5 to 99.4%, preferably 98 to 99%, by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract of an MCT oil, in particular a coconut oil, and (iii) 0.1% to 0.5% , preferably 0.25% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract of an antioxidant, preferably vitamin E.

More preferably, the oily extract comprises (i) 1.5% by weight of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum, (ii) 98 to 99% by weight of a coconut oil and (iii) 0.25% by weight. weight of vitamin E relative to the total weight of the oily extract.

According to another particular mode, a final composition will be used comprising the oily extract according to the invention and one or more other additional ingredients such as those described above, in particular additional oils.

The crude (or dry) extract is still preferentially obtained from a frozen biomass of P. tricornutum. A content of oily extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight, will advantageously be used in a final composition of the invention. 3% by weight, advantageously from 0.75% to 2% by weight, still advantageously from 1% to 1.5% by weight and in particular 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition. According to a preferred mode, the oily extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum prepared according to example 1 a) will be used in a content ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (oily preparation or final composition).

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition is a serum for the face or a balm for the lips, in particular a serum for the face comprising an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum as defined according to the invention, preferably the oily extract according to the invention, in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 3% by weight, advantageously from 0.75% to 2 % by weight, still advantageously from 1% to 1.5% by weight and in particular 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

Other uses

A final subject concerns an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum or a dermatological or pharmaceutical composition comprising it for its use to promote healing of the skin, in particular by maintaining and/or increasing the quantity of hyaluronic acid at the level of the fundamental substance of the dermis. skin.

Thus, the invention also relates to an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition comprising it for its use to promote healing of the skin, in particular of people with damaged skin and/or lips, wounds, lesions and/or superficial wounds

The dermatological or pharmaceutical composition further comprises at least one dermatologically or pharmaceutically acceptable excipient.

The extract used is as defined previously. In particular, we will use an oily extract or a final composition comprising it, as described above.

According to a particular and preferred mode, the oily extract according to the invention will be used comprising an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum dispersed in a coconut oil and comprising vitamin E, preferably in the following proportions: (i) from 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract of a Phaeodactylum extract tricornutum, in particular that prepared according to Example 1 a), (ii) from 97.5 to 99.4%, preferably from 98 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract of an MCT oil in particular of a coconut oil and (iii) from 0.1% to 0.5%, preferably 0.25% by weight of an antioxidant, preferably vitamin E.

The crude (or dry) extract is still preferentially obtained from frozen biomass of P. tricornutum. A content of oily extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight, will advantageously be used in a final composition of the invention. 3% by weight, advantageously from 0.75% to 2% by weight, more advantageously from 1% to 1.5% by weight and in particular 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

According to a preferred mode, the oily extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum prepared according to example 1 a) will be used in a content ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (oily preparation or final composition).

The pharmaceutical or dermatological composition further comprises at least one vegetable oil as defined in the invention, advantageously an MCT oil, very advantageously coconut oil. Said oil can be incorporated in an amount by weight of 50 to 99.8% relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously in an amount ranging from 97.5% to 99.4%, more advantageously from 98% to 99% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition, otherwise called oily preparation (or oily extract) for an oil content in the composition ranging from 97.5% to 99.4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular mode, a pharmaceutical or dermatological composition is used comprising the extract as defined according to the invention, preferably the oily extract according to the invention or a final pharmaceutical or dermatological composition further comprising at least one additional ingredient chosen among preservatives, biocidal agents, anti-microbial agents, emulsifiers, emollients, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, texturing agents, conditioners, shine agents, film formers, pigments, dyes, fragrances, chelating agents, polymers, reducing agents, pH regulators, humectants , conditioning agents, and mixtures thereof. The Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract or a pharmaceutical or dermatological composition comprising it may thus be intended for people with cuts, wounds or other skin lesions, to promote healing of the skin and/or lips.

Examples below referring to the description are presented. These examples are illustrative and cannot limit the scope of the invention.

Unless otherwise stated, temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius (°C), pressure in bar, percentages are given in weight/weight (w/w). Ppm stands for Parts Per Million (0.01% = 100ppm).

Example 1: Methods of preparing an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum and an oily preparation (oily extract) comprising it

Ex.1a) Hydro/alcoholic extraction (crude extract 1a)

A quantity of 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the biomass and the solvent, of frozen and dried biomass resulting from a culture in auxotrophic mode in a photobioreactor of a strain of P. tricornutum isolated, domesticated and cultivated in metropolitan France , was extracted in the presence of an ethanol/water mixture, 90/10 (w/v), at a temperature of 30°C. The extract obtained was rinsed with water then decolorized with activated carbon, and filtered to 1 μm. The extract obtained is an extract containing fatty acids and corresponds to the extract according to the invention.

Ex.1 b) Extraction with supercritical CO2 (raw extract 1 b)

In another preferred embodiment, the extract is obtained from the same frozen and dried biomass of P. tricornutum as that described in Example 1 a) but by extraction with supercritical CO2 at a temperature of 50° C and a pressure of 150 bars in the presence of ethanol as co-solvent (10%). The extract obtained was rinsed with water then filtered under the conditions described in Example 1a).

The crude extract obtained respectively in Examples 1a) or 1b) was then added with coconut oil (MCT oil) in an amount between 98 and 99% (w/w). The whole was homogenized then the residual ethanol was evaporated. A final amount of 0.25% by weight based on the total weight of the α-tocopherol composition was added. The extract from P. tricornutum is present in this oily preparation (oil extract) in an amount of 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of said oily preparation.

This oily extract is then used in the examples below.

Example 2: In vitro plumping effect of P. tricornutum extract: increase in skin volume

Protocol: Fibroblasts and adipocytes from healthy (non-pathological) human skin from healthy donors were co-cultured after seeding in DMEM (Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium) medium in the presence of Fetal Bovine Serum (FBS) (10%) during a period of 24 hours. A final concentration by weight relative to the total volume of the culture of 0.1% (w/v) or 0.05% (w/v) of the oily preparation comprising the extract as prepared according to Example 1 a ) was added to the culture, which was then maintained for an additional period of 24 hours after addition of the extract. The same culture without extract (DMEM culture medium) was carried out under the same conditions. Triton (2%) was added to the cultures to induce cell lysis. The culture medium was collected and then the fibroblasts were fixed with a paraformaldehyde solution (4%). Each condition was performed in triplicate.

The protein quantity of hyaluronic acid was measured by the ELISÀ immunoassay technique.

The results are presented in Table 1 below and correspond to the average of the 3 samples analyzed, the quantity of hyaluronic acid measured after 24 hours of culture being expressed as a % compared to the control (without extract) and reported as number of fibroblasts.

Results: Average quantity of hyaluronic acid produced

[Table 1]

Conclusion: the oily extract according to the invention increased by at least 15% (taking into account the standard deviation and up to 35% without taking it into account), and up to more than 140% the quantity of hyaluronic acid measured in fibroblast cultures, with a notable dose effect, and presents an effect greater than that of the control, demonstrating its effectiveness in increasing the volume of the skin, therefore its plumping effect.

Example 3: Plumping serum for the face

The formulation below is a facial plumping serum. The formulation is prepared by mixing the different ingredients using techniques well known to those skilled in the art until a homogeneous serum is obtained. The percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the serum (w/w).

[Table 2]

This oily serum was evaluated as part of a clinical study over 28 days, including a population of 30 women aged 45 to 70 years, of Caucasian type, and presenting healthy skin within the meaning of the invention and in particular areas of sunken skin (cheeks, cheekbones, nasolabial fold, eye contour, etc.). Each woman had the above-described oily serum applied to a first half-face, and to the second half-face, a placebo composition without the extract according to the invention. Each serum was advantageously applied twice a day, morning and evening, on each half of the face, including the nose and temples.

The improvement in skin volume was evaluated by taking 3D side photographs of the faces at the cheek level, analyzed using a specific image analysis technique well known to those skilled in the art.

The results of the clinical study showed an increase in the volume of the skin of the cheeks having received the serum comprising the extract according to the invention, compared to the hemi-face having received the placebo. The extract according to the invention is therefore effective in increasing the volume of the skin, and preferably the skin of the face and hollow areas such as as the cheeks, cheekbones and eye contour. It is also effective in increasing lip volume. It is an active plumping extract.

Claims

1. Cosmetic use of Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract to maintain and/or increase the volume of healthy skin and/or healthy lips.

2. Use according to claim 1 to plump the skin, advantageously the skin of the face, and/or the lips, and/or fill hollow areas of the face.

3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum is obtained by extraction in an alcohol/water mixture, in a proportion of 99/1 to 1/99 (w/v), advantageously still in proportion from 95/5 to 90/10 (w/v).

4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the extract is obtained by extraction in an ethanol/water mixture in a 90/10 (w/v) proportion.

5. Use of the extract according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the extract is in the form of an oily extract comprising (i) from 0.5 to 2% by weight, preferably 1.5% by weight of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably an extract as defined in claim 3 or 4, (ii) from 97.5 to 99.4%, preferably from 98 to 99% by weight of a vegetable oil relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably a medium chain triglyceride (MCT) oil and more preferably a coconut oil and (iii) 0.1 % to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily extract, preferably 0.25% by weight of an antioxidant, preferably vitamin E.

6. Use of the extract according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in a final cosmetic composition, preferably of the oily extract according to claim 5, characterized in that the extract is present in a quantity ranging from 0 .1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 3% by weight, advantageously 0.75% to 2% by weight, more advantageously 1% to 1.5% by weight and in particular 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

7. Use of the oily extract according to claim 5 in a final cosmetic composition, characterized in that the oily extract is present in a quantity ranging from 1% to 1.5%, and better still 1.5% by weight per relative to the total weight of the final composition.

8. Use according to claim 6 or 7 characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient and one or more additional ingredients chosen from additional oils such as vegetable oils in particular chosen from argan oil, shea oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, or any oil extracted from a plant or algae, including a microalgae, in particular chosen from oil olive oil, rapeseed oil, flaxseed oil, sunflower oil, medium chain triglyceride (MCT) oil, C11 -C13 alkanes, ester oils and their mixtures, preservatives , emulsifiers, emollients, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, texturing agents, conditioners, shine agents, texturing agents, film-forming agents, pigments, dyes, perfumes, biological additives , chelating agents, astringent agents, polymers, reducing agents, pH regulating agents, humectants, conditioning agents, and mixtures thereof.

9. Cosmetic treatment process for maintaining and/or increasing the volume of healthy skin and/or healthy lips, and/or for plumping up healthy skin and/or healthy lips, and/or filling hollow areas of the face, comprising oral administration or topical application, preferably topical application of an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum as defined in one of claims 3 to 5, preferably an oily extract as defined in claim 5, or a cosmetic composition comprising it, in particular a composition as defined in any one of claims 6 to 8.

10. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 9, characterized in that the composition is applied to the skin and/or lips of people aged at least 40 years, in particular at least 50 years old, or even at least 60 years old or on emaciated people.

11. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 9 or 10 comprising the application of the extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum or of the cosmetic composition comprising it on any area of the face and/or any area of the body chosen from the arms, including forearms, legs, thighs, back, torso, chest, neck, neckline, buttocks, feet and/or hands, advantageously on any hollow area of the facial skin chosen from among the cheeks, cheekbones, forehead, contour of the nose, nasolabial fold, temples, contour of the eyes, chin, contour of the mouth, and/or on the lips, preferably the cheeks, cheekbones, nasolabial fold, temples, eye contour, mouth contour, and/or lips.

12. Cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 9 to 11, characterized in that the composition is a serum for the face or a balm for the lips, in particular a serum for the face comprising an extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum such as defined in one of claims 3 to 5, preferably the oily extract of claim 5, in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in in particular from 0.5 to 3% by weight, advantageously from 0.75% to 2% by weight, still advantageously from 1% to 1.5% by weight and in particular from 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

13. Extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition comprising it for its use to promote healing of the skin of people with damaged skin and/or damaged lips, wounds, lesions and/or superficial wounds.

14. Extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum or dermatological or pharmaceutical composition comprising it for its use according to claim 13, characterized in that the extract is as defined in one of claims 3 to 5, preferably the oily extract of the claim 5 or a final composition further comprising at least one additional ingredient chosen from preservatives, biocidal agents, anti-microbial agents, emulsifiers, emollients, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, texture agents, conditioners, shine agents, film formers, pigments, dyes, fragrances, chelating agents, polymers, reducing agents, pH regulating agents, humectants, conditioning agents, and mixtures thereof.