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WO2024133666A1 - Cosmetic article and associated manufacturing method - Google Patents

Cosmetic article and associated manufacturing method Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024133666A1
WO2024133666A1 PCT/EP2023/087244 EP2023087244W WO2024133666A1 WO 2024133666 A1 WO2024133666 A1 WO 2024133666A1 EP 2023087244 W EP2023087244 W EP 2023087244W WO 2024133666 A1 WO2024133666 A1 WO 2024133666A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
adhesive
decorative layer
yarns
textile material
equal
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2023/087244
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Eric Caulier
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2024133666A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024133666A1/en

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D44/00Other cosmetic or toiletry articles, e.g. for hairdressers' rooms
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0208Tissues; Wipes; Patches
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88Polyamides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09JADHESIVES; NON-MECHANICAL ASPECTS OF ADHESIVE PROCESSES IN GENERAL; ADHESIVE PROCESSES NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE; USE OF MATERIALS AS ADHESIVES
    • C09J7/00Adhesives in the form of films or foils
    • C09J7/20Adhesives in the form of films or foils characterised by their carriers
    • C09J7/21Paper; Textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/12Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins
    • D06N3/128Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins with silicon polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/28Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44CPRODUCING DECORATIVE EFFECTS; MOSAICS; TARSIA WORK; PAPERHANGING
    • B44C1/00Processes, not specifically provided for elsewhere, for producing decorative surface effects
    • B44C1/10Applying flat materials, e.g. leaflets, pieces of fabrics
    • B44C1/105Applying flat materials, e.g. leaflets, pieces of fabrics comprising an adhesive layer
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09JADHESIVES; NON-MECHANICAL ASPECTS OF ADHESIVE PROCESSES IN GENERAL; ADHESIVE PROCESSES NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE; USE OF MATERIALS AS ADHESIVES
    • C09J2400/00Presence of inorganic and organic materials
    • C09J2400/20Presence of organic materials
    • C09J2400/26Presence of textile or fabric
    • C09J2400/263Presence of textile or fabric in the substrate
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09JADHESIVES; NON-MECHANICAL ASPECTS OF ADHESIVE PROCESSES IN GENERAL; ADHESIVE PROCESSES NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE; USE OF MATERIALS AS ADHESIVES
    • C09J2433/00Presence of (meth)acrylic polymer
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09JADHESIVES; NON-MECHANICAL ASPECTS OF ADHESIVE PROCESSES IN GENERAL; ADHESIVE PROCESSES NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE; USE OF MATERIALS AS ADHESIVES
    • C09J2483/00Presence of polysiloxane

Definitions

  • TITLE Cosmetic article and associated manufacturing method
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic article, intended to be applied on a body area of a user, of the type comprising:
  • an adhesive layer formed by a biocompatible adhesive and delimiting at least one region filled with adhesive
  • the decorative layer being formed of a textile material.
  • Such a phenomenon then has the drawback of impeding the good adherence of the article on the user's skin, when all or part of the adhesive layer remains on the support sheet when the article is removed for its application on the skin, or of inducing the formation of an undesirable adhesive residue on the skin when removing the article, furthermore impeding its subsequent reuse.
  • An aim of the invention is therefore that of solving at least some of these problems, preferably all these problems.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic article of the aforementioned type characterized in that the textile material comprises at least multi-strand yarns, each multistrand yarn comprising from 5 to 30 strands and having a yarn count of 10 to 40 dtex.
  • Such a textile layer structure with multi-strand yarns having the combination of these two parameters (number of strands per yarn and yarn count of each yarn), makes it possible to form attachment zones for the adhesive layer and thus obtain a good cohesion between the textile decorative layer and the adhesive layer, while preserving the flexibility of the article.
  • the cosmetic article lacks flexibility and does not display a satisfactory comfort when worn, and, under 14 dtex, it has been observed that the cosmetic article is too thin and therefore difficult to handle. Furthermore, over 30 strands per yarn, it has been observed that the cosmetic article displays excessive flexibility for the sought application as decorative object, rendering it difficult to handle or position on the skin, and, under 5 strands per yarn or for single strands, insufficient attachment of the adhesive layer, a substantial lack of flexibility and a lack of hold have been observed.
  • the attachment of the adhesive layer on the textile decorative layer is strengthened by the decorative layer of the decorative layer and the uniformity of attachment of these layers is enhanced, which is crucial for guaranteeing the integrity of the article, its satisfactory hold on the skin and preventing the removal of the article from the skin from the complete or localized detachment of the decorative textile layer and the adhesive layer, and a fraction of this adhesive layer from remaining on the skin.
  • the cosmetic article according to the invention thus makes it possible to achieve a satisfactory compromise in its use as a decorative article of the skin between the flexibility of the article, promoting its comfort when worn and its adaptation to the shape and relief of the body area on which it is positioned, requiring a certain structural strength of the article in order to be capable of being gripped, handled and positioned precisely, and the satisfactory attachment of the adhesive layer on the textile decorative layer, necessary for the satisfactory hold on the skin of the article, while remaining relatively easy to produce.
  • the article is suitable for being applied on a body area.
  • Each multi-strand yarn comprises from 15 to 25 strands and has a yarn count of 17 to 27 dtex.
  • the textile material is a fabric corresponding to a tulle or a lace.
  • a tulle compared to other textile materials, makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic article that is thinner, more flexible, and furthermore more resistant to cutting, in particular when the tulle has a non-run mesh, and with a better adaptation to the user's body shape.
  • Said multi-strand yarns form 100% of the textile material.
  • Said multi-strand yarns are yarns of a first type and the textile material furthermore comprises yarns of a second type different from the first type, the yarns of the first type forming at least 70% of the textile material, the yarns of the second type forming 30% or less of the textile material, preferably at least 10% of the textile material, each yarn of the second type having an elongation resistance at break greater than or equal to 300.0%.
  • Said yarns of the first type and said yarns of the second type together form 100% of the textile material.
  • Each yarn of the second type is multi-strand or single-strand and has a yarn count of 18 dtex to 95 dtex.
  • the yarns of the second type make it possible to add advantageous properties to the cosmetic articles, giving for example the fabric flexibility to adapt to all body area shapes.
  • the adhesive layer is made at least of silicone and has a mass density greater than or equal to 40 g/m 2 and less than or equal to 180 g/m 2 , and preferably greater than or equal to 55 g/m 2 and less than or equal to 95 g/m 2 ; or the adhesive layer is made at least of acrylic and has a mass density greater than or equal to 5 g/m 2 and less than or equal to 35 g/m 2 , preferably greater than or equal to 15 g/m 2 and less than or equal to 25 g/m 2 .
  • the invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a cosmetic article comprising the following steps:
  • the textile material comprises multi-strand yarns, each multistrand yarn comprising from 5 to 30 strands and having a yarn count of 10 to 40 dtex.
  • the manufacturing method according to the invention can comprise one or more of the following features, taken alone or in any technically possible combinations:
  • the method also comprises, before the application step, a step of abrading an inner surface of the decorative layer, and, following the application step, said abraded inner surface is in contact with the region filled with adhesive of the adhesive layer;
  • said inner surface of the decorative layer has a mean surface roughness SMD of at least 5 pm, preferably at least 15 pm;
  • the mean surface roughness SMD displayed by said inner surface of the decorative layer increases by at least 1 .5 pm, preferably at least 5 pm, following the abrasion step.
  • a mechanical step of abrading the decorative layer preferably with an emery coating and/or with a coating comprising metal needles, modifies the roughness and forms new attachment areas for the application of the adhesive layer.
  • the abrasion step comprises tensioning of said inner surface of the decorative layer, rotation of at least one cylinder having an abrasive coating, and passage of the cylinder during rotation on said inner surface, the abrasive coating preferably comprising needles and/or an emery coating.
  • the method also comprises, before the application step, a step of washing the decorative layer by means of a water charged with non-ionic surfactants.
  • Such a step of washing the decorative layer provides a better compatibility between the textile decorative layer and the adhesive layer applied subsequently, which reinforces the attachment between the layers.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic application method, including the following steps:
  • the application method optionally comprises detachment of the cosmetic article and another step of applying the adhesive layer of the detached article on the same body area or on another body area.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic sectional view of a cosmetic article according to the invention.
  • Figure 2 is a scanning electron microscopy photograph of an embodiment example of the decorative layer of a cosmetic article according to the invention.
  • a cosmetic article 10 is illustrated schematically in Figure 1 .
  • the cosmetic article 10 is in particular intended to be placed on a body area of a user.
  • the cosmetic article 10 is capable of forming a decorative object to embellish the body area of the user.
  • the body area, on which the article 10 is placed comprises for example a movable area and/or a stationary area.
  • the body area is the user's eye area, and is for example located at the outer corner of the eye and/or on the upper eyelid of the eye.
  • Eye area denotes for example an area extending less than 5 cm, preferably less than 2 cm, from the edge of one of the eyelids of one of the eyes, and preferably from the edge of the upper eyelid of one of the user's eyes.
  • the body area therefore comprises a movable area corresponding to the upper eyelid and a stationary area corresponding to the outer corner of the eye.
  • the body area comprises for example the user's skin on the arm, torso, face and/or neck.
  • the body area comprises for example the user's nails.
  • the cosmetic article 10 comprises a decorative layer 18 and an adhesive layer 20.
  • the cosmetic article 10 further includes a protective layer of the adhesive layer 20, the protective layer being applied on the adhesive layer 20 to serve as a substrate for the cosmetic article when it is not applied on a body area of a user.
  • Each layer 18, 20 has at least one closed outer peripheral edge.
  • Each closed outer peripheral edge is in particular defined perpendicularly to the thickness of the cosmetic article 10, when the article 10 is arranged in a planar manner.
  • the closed outer peripheral edges of the layers 18, 20 match and are overlaid.
  • the adhesive layer 20 is applied onto an inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18, as detailed hereinafter.
  • the adhesive layer 20 is formed by a biocompatible adhesive.
  • Biocompatible adhesive denotes according to the invention any compound which has the property of adhering to a biological tissue when said compound is applied thereon, such as for example a mucous membrane or the dermis.
  • the adhesive agent In order to be biocompatible, the adhesive agent must be compatible with use on biological tissue, without causing adverse reactions such as inflammation of the biological tissue.
  • the biocompatible adhesive comprises silicone, in particular a silicone gel.
  • the adhesive layer made at least of silicone then advantageously has a mass density greater than or equal to 40 g/m 2 and less than or equal to 180 g/m 2 , and preferably greater than or equal to 55 g/m 2 and less than or equal to 95 g/m 2 .
  • the biocompatible adhesive comprises acrylic
  • the adhesive layer made at least of acrylic then advantageously has a mass density greater than or equal to 5 g/m 2 and less than or equal to 35 g/m 2 , preferably greater than or equal to 15 g/m 2 and less than or equal to 25 g/m 2 .
  • Such adhesives particularly ensure a satisfactory hold over time, as well as good repositionability of the cosmetic article on the skin.
  • the repositionability reflects the ability of the cosmetic article to be positioned, detached, then repositioned a certain number of times on the skin, without the adhesive layer losing the adhesion capacity thereof, in other words the adhesion capacity of the adhesive layer remains sufficiently high to ensure a satisfactory hold over time even after undergoing several adhesion/detachment cycles on the skin.
  • the biocompatible adhesive is selected from Silpuran® 21 14, Silpuran® 2142, sold for example by WACKER, Silbione® 4743 or Silbione® 4645, sold for example by ELKEM, "Nero/black” silicone gel or other.
  • the closed outer peripheral edge of the decorative layer 18 has a shape drawing a predetermined esthetic pattern.
  • the predetermined esthetic pattern is elongated displaying a tip.
  • the cosmetic article 10 is then particularly adapted to decorate the upper eyelid of one of the user's eyes and form a comma at the outer corner of one of the user's eyes.
  • the decorative layer 18 is formed of a textile material.
  • the decorative layer 18 is, preferably, single-layer.
  • the decorative layer 18 is only formed by a single textile material.
  • the textile material is for example a fabric, i.e., a woven, or non-woven, material.
  • the textile material is a knitted fabric, embroidery, lace, tulle, or other.
  • the textile material is a fabric which includes interlacing of warp yarns and weft yarns.
  • the tulle is made by warp and weft yarns, the directions of which are not perpendicular.
  • the tulle corresponds to a fabric wherein straight-line yarns and curved-line yarns form hexagonal meshes.
  • the tulle is formed of non-run meshes.
  • Lace is a variant of tulle but forms a design thanks to a Jacquard mechanism.
  • the textile material includes a plurality of yarns.
  • the textile material comprises at least multi-strand yarns, each multi-strand yarn comprising from 5 to 30 strands and having a yarn count of 10 to 40 dtex.
  • the expression "comprising from X to Y" means greater than or equal to X and less than or equal to Y.
  • each multi-strand yarn comprises from 15 to 25 strands and has a yarn count of 17 to 27 dtex.
  • each multi-strand yarn comprises 20 strands and has a yarn count of 22 dtex.
  • a yarn is particularly characterized by the yarn count (synonymous here with "diameter”) which indicates the size or fineness thereof, the yarn county operation consisting of giving it a measurement, for example in decitex (dtex). This measurement is made for example according to the standard ISO 1 144:2016, and particularly expresses the weight in grams of 10,000 meters of yarn.
  • the multi-strand yarns advantageously have an elongation resistance at break less than or equal to 50.0%, measured for example by the measurement method of the standard NA-EPA-015.
  • the multi-strand yarns are for example made of natural material, such as cotton, hemp, linen or other, or of synthetic material, such as polyamide (PA), polyester (PES/PET), polypropylene (PP) or other.
  • synthetic material such as polyamide (PA), polyester (PES/PET), polypropylene (PP) or other.
  • said multi-strand yarns form 100% of the textile material.
  • the textile material is substantially devoid of other yarns different from said multistrand yarns.
  • the set of multi-strand yarns defines a mean yarn count value T m in dtex, each multi-strand yarn having a respective yarn count within a range of more or less a predetermined deviation a centered on said mean value T m .
  • each multi-strand yarn has a respective yarn count greater than or equal to T m - a and less than or equal to T m + a.
  • the predetermined deviation a is preferably less than or equal to 4% of said mean value T m , for example less than or equal to 0.6 dtex.
  • said multi-strand yarns are yarns of a first type and the textile material furthermore comprises yarns of a second type different from the first type.
  • the set of multi-strand yarns of the first type defines a mean yarn count value T m in dtex, each multi-strand yarn of the first type having a respective yarn count within a range of more or less a predetermined deviation a centered on said mean value T m .
  • each multi-strand yarn of the first type has a respective yarn count greater than or equal to T m - a and less than or equal to T m + a.
  • the predetermined deviation a is preferably less than or equal to 4% of said mean value Tm, for example less than or equal to 0.6 dtex.
  • the yarns of the first type then form at least 70% of the textile material, and the yarns of the second type then form 30% or less of the textile material.
  • said yarns of the first type and said yarns of the second type together form 100% of the textile material. In other words, there is no other type of yarn in the textile material.
  • the yarns of the second type form at least 10% of the textile material.
  • Each yarn of the second type advantageously has an elongation resistance at break greater than or equal to 300.0%, measured for example by the measurement method of the BIFSA standard chapter 6.
  • Each yarn of the second type is multi-strand or, preferably single-strand.
  • Each yarn of the second type has a yarn count of 18 dtex to 95 dtex.
  • the yarns of the second type are for example made of elastane (EA) or elastic Polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) or other.
  • the yarns of the second type make it possible to give the fabric flexibility and thus adapt to all body area shapes.
  • the decorative layer 18 has a mass density greater than or equal to 180 g/m 2 , advantageously less than or equal to 100 g/m 2 , preferably less than or equal to 50 g/m 2 , and preferably less than or equal to 10 g/m 2 .
  • the decorative layer 18 has a plurality of through openings 24, seen in Figures 1 and 2.
  • Each through opening 24 is formed in a predetermined manner during the weaving of the textile material.
  • the decorative layer 18 has a permeability to air, measured for example as per the ISO 9237-2 standard, of at least 3000 l/min.dm 2 , more preferably at least 10000 l/min.dm 2 , for example of the order of 50000 l/min.dm 2 .
  • the decorative layer 18 has an inner surface 32 and an outer surface 34.
  • the outer surface 34 of the decorative layer 18 is opposite the inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18.
  • the distance between the inner surface 32 and the outer surface 34 defines the thickness of the decorative layer 18.
  • the decorative layer 18 has a thickness between 0.020 mm and 0.800 mm, at all points, more preferably between 0.150 mm and 0.600 mm, preferably between 0.200 mm and 0.400 mm.
  • the thickness of the decorative layer 18 is preferably constant.
  • the decorative layer 18 is entirely mounted against the region filled with adhesive 21 of the adhesive layer 20.
  • the inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18 is entirely mounted against the distal surface 30 of the region filled with adhesive 21 of the adhesive layer 20.
  • the adhesive layer 20 does not pass through the decorative layer 18. In other words, the adhesive layer 20 is only present on the inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18
  • the region filled with adhesive 21 of the adhesive layer 20 extends at all points of the decorative layer 18, including at each through opening 24.
  • the region filled with adhesive 21 covers and thus conceals each through opening 24.
  • Each through opening 24 of the decorative layer 18 has a closed internal contour.
  • the internal contour is delimited by the yarns of the textile material.
  • each through opening 24 is in particular defined perpendicularly to the thickness of the article 10, when the article 10 is arranged in a planar manner.
  • all the openings 24 are substantially identical in shape and in dimensions.
  • the openings 24 could be different from one another, in shape and/or in dimensions.
  • each opening 24 has a rectangular shape, a square shape, elongated rectangular shape, a polygonal shape, regular polygonal shape, parallelogram, diamond, oval or circular shape.
  • the internal contour of the opening delimits an internal area of the opening.
  • the internal areas defined by the through openings 24 of the decorative layer 18 are substantially identical.
  • Substantially identical denotes that each internal area exhibits a deviation less than 10% from the mean value of the internal areas of the through openings 24 of the decorative layer 18.
  • the through openings 24 of the layer 18 form a regular grid. More specifically, in the example illustrated in Figure 2, the through openings 24 of the layer 18 respectively have geometric centers distributed in a staggered grid.
  • the internal contour of the opening 24 has a greater dimension.
  • the greater dimension is in particular the cord joining two points of the internal contour having the greatest length, in a top view when the article 10 is arranged in a planar manner.
  • said greater dimension is greater than or equal to 0.20 mm, for example greater than or equal to 0.50 mm, for example greater than or equal than 0.65 mm, for example greater than or equal to 0.75 mm, for example greater than or equal to 1.00 mm.
  • the cosmetic article 10 furthermore has further features defined hereinafter.
  • the cosmetic article 10 has no additional layer applied against the external surface 34 of the decorative layer 18.
  • At least half of the external surface 34 of the decorative layer 18 is in contact with an air mass outside the cosmetic article 10.
  • the entire external surface 34 of the decorative layer 18 is in contact with an air mass outside the cosmetic article 10.
  • the cosmetic article is devoid of a third layer and only comprises two layers: a decorative layer 18 and an adhesive layer 20.
  • the cosmetic article 10 has, for each application, a force required to detach the article 10 from the substrate, between 0.02 N and 0.8 N, and preferably between 0.04 N and 0.36 N.
  • the cosmetic article 10 has a force required to detach the article 10 from the substrate, averaged on all the applications between a first application and a tenth application, between 0.02 N and 0.5 N, and preferably between 0.04 N and 0.36 N.
  • the method comprises providing the cosmetic article 10, 10B, 10C defined above.
  • the cosmetic article 10 is then applied on the body area of the user.
  • the adhesive layer 20 of the article 10 is applied on said body area.
  • the application method optionally comprises adjusting the position of the cosmetic article on the body area.
  • the adjustment then comprises for example the partial detachment of a part of the article from an initial position of said part on the body area, and another step of applying of the adhesive layer 20 of the part of the detached article at another position on the body area.
  • the method comprises the step of providing a decorative layer 18 formed of a textile material, the textile material being formed from multi-strand yarns.
  • the textile material corresponds to that described above.
  • the textile material comprises multi-strand yarns, each multi-strand yarn comprising from 5 to 30 strands and having a yarn count of 10 to 40 dtex.
  • the method then comprises a step of applying an adhesive layer 20 formed by a biocompatible adhesive against the decorative layer 18, such that the adhesive layer 20 delimits at least one region filled with adhesive 21 and such that the decorative layer 18 is entirely mounted against the region filled with adhesive 21 of the adhesive layer 20.
  • the method also comprises, before the application step, a step of abrading an inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18, and, following the application step, said abraded inner surface 32 is in contact with the region filled with adhesive 21 of the adhesive layer 20.
  • the abrasion step comprises:
  • the abrasive coating comprises needles, for example made of metal. The needles then scratch the inner surface 32, when the cylinder passes on the inner surface 32.
  • the abrasive coating comprises an emery coating.
  • Emery corresponds to an abrasive manufactured from a metamorphic rock essentially consisting of corundum.
  • the entire inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18 which is subsequently placed in contact with the region filled with adhesive 21 of the adhesive layer 20 is preferably abraded. Alternatively, only a part of the said inner surface 32 is abraded, which nonetheless increases the attachment of the adhesive layer 20 on the decorative layer 18.
  • said abraded inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18 has a mean surface roughness SMD of at least 5 pm, preferably at least 15 pm.
  • said abraded inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18 has a mean surface roughness SMD less than or equal to 30 pm, preferably less than or equal to 25 pm.
  • Said surface roughness SMD is preferably measured according to the protocol described hereinafter in the examples.
  • the mean surface roughness SMD displayed by said inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18 increases by at least 1 .5 pm, preferably at least 5 pm, following the abrasion step.
  • the mean surface roughness SMD displayed by said abraded inner surface 32 is greater by at least 1 .5 pm, preferably by at least 5 pm, compared to the nonabraded inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18 provided previously.
  • the method also comprises, before the application step, a step of washing the decorative layer 18 by means of a water charged with at least one non-ionic surfactant.
  • the washing step is preferably implemented after the abrasion step.
  • the washing step is preferably carried out at a temperature less than or equal to 50°C, for example around 40°C.
  • the washing step is preferably carried out with a washing rotation speed less than or equal to 30 rpm, for example around 20 rpm.
  • the non-ionic surfactant used in the present invention has an HLB greater than or equal to 10, preferably greater than or equal to 12.
  • HLB Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance
  • the HLB value as per GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249- 256.
  • the non-ionic surfactant used in the present invention has an HLB less than 10.
  • the non-ionic surfactant can be chosen from lactates, preferably ethyl lactate, optionally mixed with other compounds.
  • the non-ionic surfactant is a mixture of ethyl lactate, potassium 4- isopropylbenzenesulfonate and sodium 4-isopropylbenzenesulfonate.
  • ethyl lactate potassium 4- isopropylbenzenesulfonate
  • sodium 4-isopropylbenzenesulfonate Such a mixture is marketed under the name Biotex Natural Oil by Prochimica Novarese. Examples:
  • a comparative test piece having a decorative layer only formed of single-strand yarns was compared to a test piece according to the invention made of tulle, subsequently corresponding to reference 659.
  • the decorative layer of test piece Tulle 659 was a tulle comprising PA yarns and EA yarns such that the composition of the decorative layer was 83% PA and 17% EA.
  • the PA yarns all had 20 strands/yarn and a yarn count of 22 dtex; and the EA yarns were all single-strand and had a yarn count of 78 dtex.
  • the adhesive layer was made of silicone at 60 g/m 2 by weight.
  • test piece Tulle 659 is illustrated in the photograph in Figure 2.
  • the adhesive is an integral part of the fabric without for all that passing through it, which makes it possible to obtain an extremely thin article providing the user with a "second skin” effect, and which makes it possible to retain great flexibility and therefore comfort.
  • the impact of abrasion on adherence was estimated by firstly evaluating the increase in the surface roughness SMD parameter of the decorative layer following the abrasion step.
  • the abrasion process is as follows, using the finished fabric without any treatment:
  • the surface roughness SMD parameter corresponds to the mean variation of the relief on an unwinding cycle in pm (or mean linear deviation of the surface thickness), and is evaluated based on Kawabata type tests.
  • the operating conditions for determining the surface roughness SMD are as follows:
  • the sample conditioning and testing atmosphere is 23°C+/- 5°C and the humidity level is 50% +/- 4%;
  • the sample subjected to a typical constant tension of 120 g for 20 cm, passes under a roughness sensor of the KES-FB4 ("Kawabata Evaluation System for fabric B4") system, the probe corresponding to a filiform element made of steel of 5 by 10 mm in crosssection, 5 mm in width, with an exerted force of 10 g.f., orthogonal to the sample surface.
  • KES-FB4 Kawabata Evaluation System for fabric B4
  • the sample moves at a speed of 1 .0 mm/s along 30 mm, in a two-way cycle;
  • the surface roughness SMD is determined as the mean of the six measurements obtained in the outbound direction and the inbound direction.
  • the purpose of this test is to evaluate the detachment force at each application and after 10 applications.
  • the substrate is made of leather, having the dimensions 200mmx50mm, and attached to the glass plate.
  • the substrate is a fine-grained leather having a surface roughness parameter Sa of 9.4pm.
  • the measurements of the roughness parameter Sa are made by the surface method according to the ISO 4287 standard with a Keyence VHX 7000 microscope, with coaxial lighting, and X100 zoom for the measurement of the roughness parameter Sa.
  • the roughness parameter Sa is the extension of the roughness parameter Ra (arithmetic mean height of a line) to a surface. It gives the arithmetic mean, in absolute values, of the difference in height of each point relative to the median plane of the surface.
  • test piece has the dimensions 150mmx25mm.
  • the adhesive layer of the test pieces comprises silicone and corresponds to the trade name Silbione® 4743 marketed for example by ELKEM.
  • the adhesive is an integral part of the cosmetic article without for all that passing through it, which makes it possible to obtain an extremely thin article and therefore a second skin effect, and moreover retain great flexibility and therefore great comfort.
  • washing with non-ionic surfactants makes it possible to remove lubricating oils which are placed on the yarns to protect the yarns and the machines during knitting, and remove the greases and oils from the machines.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic article (10), intended to be applied on a body area of a user, the article comprising: - an adhesive layer (20) formed by a biocompatible adhesive and delimiting at least one region filled with adhesive (21); - a decorative layer (18) entirely mounted against the region filled with adhesive (21) of the adhesive layer (20), the decorative layer (18) being formed of a textile material. The textile material comprises at least multi-strand yarns, each multi-strand yarn comprising from 5 to 30 strands and having a yarn count of 10 to 40 dtex.

Description

DESCRIPTION
TITLE: Cosmetic article and associated manufacturing method
The present invention relates to a cosmetic article, intended to be applied on a body area of a user, of the type comprising:
- an adhesive layer formed by a biocompatible adhesive and delimiting at least one region filled with adhesive;
- a decorative layer entirely mounted against the region filled with adhesive of the adhesive layer, the decorative layer being formed of a textile material.
There are numerous articles, corresponding to planar and self-adhesive decorative objects, in the field of cosmetics.
However, none are fully satisfactory either in terms of hold over time, lack of flexibility, discomfort when worn, overly strong adherent effect which implies difficult and/or painful peeling or insufficiently strong adherent effect.
In particular, problems have been observed in respect of cohesion and delamination between the textile layer and the adhesive layer of such an article, in particular when it is detached from its support sheet and/or when it is removed from a user's skin.
Such a phenomenon then has the drawback of impeding the good adherence of the article on the user's skin, when all or part of the adhesive layer remains on the support sheet when the article is removed for its application on the skin, or of inducing the formation of an undesirable adhesive residue on the skin when removing the article, furthermore impeding its subsequent reuse.
An aim of the invention is therefore that of solving at least some of these problems, preferably all these problems.
Therefore, the invention relates to a cosmetic article of the aforementioned type characterized in that the textile material comprises at least multi-strand yarns, each multistrand yarn comprising from 5 to 30 strands and having a yarn count of 10 to 40 dtex.
Such a textile layer structure, with multi-strand yarns having the combination of these two parameters (number of strands per yarn and yarn count of each yarn), makes it possible to form attachment zones for the adhesive layer and thus obtain a good cohesion between the textile decorative layer and the adhesive layer, while preserving the flexibility of the article.
More specifically, over 40 dtex, it has been observed that the cosmetic article lacks flexibility and does not display a satisfactory comfort when worn, and, under 14 dtex, it has been observed that the cosmetic article is too thin and therefore difficult to handle. Furthermore, over 30 strands per yarn, it has been observed that the cosmetic article displays excessive flexibility for the sought application as decorative object, rendering it difficult to handle or position on the skin, and, under 5 strands per yarn or for single strands, insufficient attachment of the adhesive layer, a substantial lack of flexibility and a lack of hold have been observed.
Thus, the attachment of the adhesive layer on the textile decorative layer is strengthened by the decorative layer of the decorative layer and the uniformity of attachment of these layers is enhanced, which is crucial for guaranteeing the integrity of the article, its satisfactory hold on the skin and preventing the removal of the article from the skin from the complete or localized detachment of the decorative textile layer and the adhesive layer, and a fraction of this adhesive layer from remaining on the skin.
The cosmetic article according to the invention thus makes it possible to achieve a satisfactory compromise in its use as a decorative article of the skin between the flexibility of the article, promoting its comfort when worn and its adaptation to the shape and relief of the body area on which it is positioned, requiring a certain structural strength of the article in order to be capable of being gripped, handled and positioned precisely, and the satisfactory attachment of the adhesive layer on the textile decorative layer, necessary for the satisfactory hold on the skin of the article, while remaining relatively easy to produce.
The cosmetic article according to the invention may comprise one or several of the following characteristics taken in isolation or in any technically possible combination:
The article is suitable for being applied on a body area.
Each multi-strand yarn comprises from 15 to 25 strands and has a yarn count of 17 to 27 dtex.
The tests conducted by the inventors demonstrated that such ranges make it possible to obtain as much attachment of the adhesive layer on the textile decorative layer.
The textile material is a fabric corresponding to a tulle or a lace.
The choice of a tulle, compared to other textile materials, makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic article that is thinner, more flexible, and furthermore more resistant to cutting, in particular when the tulle has a non-run mesh, and with a better adaptation to the user's body shape.
Said multi-strand yarns form 100% of the textile material.
Said multi-strand yarns are yarns of a first type and the textile material furthermore comprises yarns of a second type different from the first type, the yarns of the first type forming at least 70% of the textile material, the yarns of the second type forming 30% or less of the textile material, preferably at least 10% of the textile material, each yarn of the second type having an elongation resistance at break greater than or equal to 300.0%.
Said yarns of the first type and said yarns of the second type together form 100% of the textile material.
Each yarn of the second type is multi-strand or single-strand and has a yarn count of 18 dtex to 95 dtex.
The yarns of the second type make it possible to add advantageous properties to the cosmetic articles, giving for example the fabric flexibility to adapt to all body area shapes.
The adhesive layer is made at least of silicone and has a mass density greater than or equal to 40 g/m2 and less than or equal to 180 g/m2, and preferably greater than or equal to 55 g/m2 and less than or equal to 95 g/m2; or the adhesive layer is made at least of acrylic and has a mass density greater than or equal to 5 g/m2 and less than or equal to 35 g/m2, preferably greater than or equal to 15 g/m2 and less than or equal to 25 g/m2.
Such adhesive layer density ranges make it possible to ensure satisfactory attachment to the decorative layer.
The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a cosmetic article comprising the following steps:
- providing a decorative layer formed of a textile material, the textile material being formed from multi-strand yarns;
- applying an adhesive layer formed by a biocompatible adhesive against the decorative layer, such that the adhesive layer delimits at least one region filled with adhesive and such that the decorative layer is entirely mounted against the region filled with adhesive of the adhesive layer; characterized in that the textile material comprises multi-strand yarns, each multistrand yarn comprising from 5 to 30 strands and having a yarn count of 10 to 40 dtex.
The manufacturing method according to the invention can comprise one or more of the following features, taken alone or in any technically possible combinations:
- the method also comprises, before the application step, a step of abrading an inner surface of the decorative layer, and, following the application step, said abraded inner surface is in contact with the region filled with adhesive of the adhesive layer;
- after the abrasion step, said inner surface of the decorative layer has a mean surface roughness SMD of at least 5 pm, preferably at least 15 pm;
- the mean surface roughness SMD displayed by said inner surface of the decorative layer increases by at least 1 .5 pm, preferably at least 5 pm, following the abrasion step. Such a mechanical step of abrading the decorative layer, preferably with an emery coating and/or with a coating comprising metal needles, modifies the roughness and forms new attachment areas for the application of the adhesive layer.
The abrasion step comprises tensioning of said inner surface of the decorative layer, rotation of at least one cylinder having an abrasive coating, and passage of the cylinder during rotation on said inner surface, the abrasive coating preferably comprising needles and/or an emery coating.
The method also comprises, before the application step, a step of washing the decorative layer by means of a water charged with non-ionic surfactants.
Such a step of washing the decorative layer provides a better compatibility between the textile decorative layer and the adhesive layer applied subsequently, which reinforces the attachment between the layers.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic application method, including the following steps:
- providing a cosmetic article as described above; and
- applying the adhesive layer on a body area of a user.
The application method optionally comprises detachment of the cosmetic article and another step of applying the adhesive layer of the detached article on the same body area or on another body area.
The invention will be easier to understand after reading the following description, provided solely as an example and with reference to the appended drawings, wherein:
[Fig 1] Figure 1 is a schematic sectional view of a cosmetic article according to the invention; and
[Fig 2] Figure 2 is a scanning electron microscopy photograph of an embodiment example of the decorative layer of a cosmetic article according to the invention.
A cosmetic article 10 is illustrated schematically in Figure 1 .
The cosmetic article 10 is in particular intended to be placed on a body area of a user.
More specifically, the cosmetic article 10 is capable of forming a decorative object to embellish the body area of the user.
The body area, on which the article 10 is placed, comprises for example a movable area and/or a stationary area. For example, the body area is the user's eye area, and is for example located at the outer corner of the eye and/or on the upper eyelid of the eye.
"Eye area" denotes for example an area extending less than 5 cm, preferably less than 2 cm, from the edge of one of the eyelids of one of the eyes, and preferably from the edge of the upper eyelid of one of the user's eyes.
For example, the body area therefore comprises a movable area corresponding to the upper eyelid and a stationary area corresponding to the outer corner of the eye.
Alternatively, the body area comprises for example the user's skin on the arm, torso, face and/or neck. In a further alternative embodiment, the body area comprises for example the user's nails.
As illustrated in figure 1 , the cosmetic article 10 comprises a decorative layer 18 and an adhesive layer 20.
Additionally, not shown, the cosmetic article 10 further includes a protective layer of the adhesive layer 20, the protective layer being applied on the adhesive layer 20 to serve as a substrate for the cosmetic article when it is not applied on a body area of a user.
Each layer 18, 20 has at least one closed outer peripheral edge.
Each closed outer peripheral edge is in particular defined perpendicularly to the thickness of the cosmetic article 10, when the article 10 is arranged in a planar manner.
For example, the closed outer peripheral edges of the layers 18, 20 match and are overlaid.
The adhesive layer 20 is applied onto an inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18, as detailed hereinafter.
The adhesive layer 20 is formed by a biocompatible adhesive.
"Biocompatible adhesive" denotes according to the invention any compound which has the property of adhering to a biological tissue when said compound is applied thereon, such as for example a mucous membrane or the dermis. In order to be biocompatible, the adhesive agent must be compatible with use on biological tissue, without causing adverse reactions such as inflammation of the biological tissue.
Preferably, the biocompatible adhesive comprises silicone, in particular a silicone gel.
The adhesive layer made at least of silicone then advantageously has a mass density greater than or equal to 40 g/m2 and less than or equal to 180 g/m2, and preferably greater than or equal to 55 g/m2 and less than or equal to 95 g/m2.
Additionally or alternatively, the biocompatible adhesive comprises acrylic The adhesive layer made at least of acrylic then advantageously has a mass density greater than or equal to 5 g/m2 and less than or equal to 35 g/m2, preferably greater than or equal to 15 g/m2 and less than or equal to 25 g/m2.
Such adhesives particularly ensure a satisfactory hold over time, as well as good repositionability of the cosmetic article on the skin.
The repositionability reflects the ability of the cosmetic article to be positioned, detached, then repositioned a certain number of times on the skin, without the adhesive layer losing the adhesion capacity thereof, in other words the adhesion capacity of the adhesive layer remains sufficiently high to ensure a satisfactory hold over time even after undergoing several adhesion/detachment cycles on the skin.
For example, the biocompatible adhesive is selected from Silpuran® 21 14, Silpuran® 2142, sold for example by WACKER, Silbione® 4743 or Silbione® 4645, sold for example by ELKEM, "Nero/black" silicone gel or other.
The decorative layer 18 will now be described in more detail. An embodiment example of such a layer is seen in Figure 2.
The closed outer peripheral edge of the decorative layer 18 has a shape drawing a predetermined esthetic pattern.
For example, the predetermined esthetic pattern is elongated displaying a tip. The cosmetic article 10 is then particularly adapted to decorate the upper eyelid of one of the user's eyes and form a comma at the outer corner of one of the user's eyes.
The decorative layer 18 is formed of a textile material.
The decorative layer 18 is, preferably, single-layer. For example, the decorative layer 18 is only formed by a single textile material.
The textile material is for example a fabric, i.e., a woven, or non-woven, material. In particular, the textile material is a knitted fabric, embroidery, lace, tulle, or other.
Preferably, the textile material is a fabric which includes interlacing of warp yarns and weft yarns.
The tulle is made by warp and weft yarns, the directions of which are not perpendicular. In particular, the tulle corresponds to a fabric wherein straight-line yarns and curved-line yarns form hexagonal meshes.
Preferably, the tulle is formed of non-run meshes.
Lace is a variant of tulle but forms a design thanks to a Jacquard mechanism.
The textile material includes a plurality of yarns.
The textile material comprises at least multi-strand yarns, each multi-strand yarn comprising from 5 to 30 strands and having a yarn count of 10 to 40 dtex. The expression "comprising from X to Y" means greater than or equal to X and less than or equal to Y.
Preferably, each multi-strand yarn comprises from 15 to 25 strands and has a yarn count of 17 to 27 dtex. In a particular embodiment, each multi-strand yarn comprises 20 strands and has a yarn count of 22 dtex.
Indeed, a yarn is particularly characterized by the yarn count (synonymous here with "diameter") which indicates the size or fineness thereof, the yarn county operation consisting of giving it a measurement, for example in decitex (dtex). This measurement is made for example according to the standard ISO 1 144:2016, and particularly expresses the weight in grams of 10,000 meters of yarn.
The multi-strand yarns advantageously have an elongation resistance at break less than or equal to 50.0%, measured for example by the measurement method of the standard NA-EPA-015.
The multi-strand yarns are for example made of natural material, such as cotton, hemp, linen or other, or of synthetic material, such as polyamide (PA), polyester (PES/PET), polypropylene (PP) or other.
In a first embodiment, said multi-strand yarns form 100% of the textile material. In particular, the textile material is substantially devoid of other yarns different from said multistrand yarns.
Advantageously, the set of multi-strand yarns defines a mean yarn count value Tm in dtex, each multi-strand yarn having a respective yarn count within a range of more or less a predetermined deviation a centered on said mean value Tm.
In other words, each multi-strand yarn has a respective yarn count greater than or equal to Tm - a and less than or equal to Tm + a.
The predetermined deviation a is preferably less than or equal to 4% of said mean value Tm, for example less than or equal to 0.6 dtex.
In a second preferred embodiment, said multi-strand yarns are yarns of a first type and the textile material furthermore comprises yarns of a second type different from the first type.
Advantageously, the set of multi-strand yarns of the first type defines a mean yarn count value Tm in dtex, each multi-strand yarn of the first type having a respective yarn count within a range of more or less a predetermined deviation a centered on said mean value Tm.
In other words, each multi-strand yarn of the first type has a respective yarn count greater than or equal to Tm - a and less than or equal to Tm + a. The predetermined deviation a is preferably less than or equal to 4% of said mean value Tm, for example less than or equal to 0.6 dtex.
The yarns of the first type then form at least 70% of the textile material, and the yarns of the second type then form 30% or less of the textile material.
Preferably, said yarns of the first type and said yarns of the second type together form 100% of the textile material. In other words, there is no other type of yarn in the textile material.
In a preferred example, the yarns of the second type form at least 10% of the textile material.
Each yarn of the second type advantageously has an elongation resistance at break greater than or equal to 300.0%, measured for example by the measurement method of the BIFSA standard chapter 6.
Each yarn of the second type is multi-strand or, preferably single-strand.
Each yarn of the second type has a yarn count of 18 dtex to 95 dtex.
The yarns of the second type are for example made of elastane (EA) or elastic Polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) or other.
The yarns of the second type make it possible to give the fabric flexibility and thus adapt to all body area shapes.
The decorative layer 18 has a mass density greater than or equal to 180 g/m2, advantageously less than or equal to 100 g/m2, preferably less than or equal to 50 g/m2, and preferably less than or equal to 10 g/m2.
Advantageously, the decorative layer 18 has a plurality of through openings 24, seen in Figures 1 and 2.
Each through opening 24 is formed in a predetermined manner during the weaving of the textile material.
The decorative layer 18 has a permeability to air, measured for example as per the ISO 9237-2 standard, of at least 3000 l/min.dm2, more preferably at least 10000 l/min.dm2, for example of the order of 50000 l/min.dm2.
The decorative layer 18 has an inner surface 32 and an outer surface 34.
The outer surface 34 of the decorative layer 18 is opposite the inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18.
The distance between the inner surface 32 and the outer surface 34 defines the thickness of the decorative layer 18.
The decorative layer 18 has a thickness between 0.020 mm and 0.800 mm, at all points, more preferably between 0.150 mm and 0.600 mm, preferably between 0.200 mm and 0.400 mm. The thickness of the decorative layer 18 is preferably constant.
As illustrated in Figure 1 , the decorative layer 18 is entirely mounted against the region filled with adhesive 21 of the adhesive layer 20.
More specifically, the inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18 is entirely mounted against the distal surface 30 of the region filled with adhesive 21 of the adhesive layer 20.
The adhesive layer 20 does not pass through the decorative layer 18. In other words, the adhesive layer 20 is only present on the inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18
In particular, the region filled with adhesive 21 of the adhesive layer 20 extends at all points of the decorative layer 18, including at each through opening 24.
The region filled with adhesive 21 covers and thus conceals each through opening 24.
In projection in a plane perpendicular to the thickness, when the article 10 is arranged in a planar manner, for each through opening 24 of the decorative layer 18, the distal surface 30 of the region filled with adhesive 21 of the adhesive layer 20 extends entirely into the internal contour of said through opening 24.
Each through opening 24 of the decorative layer 18 has a closed internal contour.
The internal contour is delimited by the yarns of the textile material.
The internal contour of each through opening 24 is in particular defined perpendicularly to the thickness of the article 10, when the article 10 is arranged in a planar manner.
In the embodiment example illustrated in Figure 2, all the openings 24 are substantially identical in shape and in dimensions. Alternatively, the openings 24 could be different from one another, in shape and/or in dimensions.
The internal contour of each opening 24 has a rectangular shape, a square shape, elongated rectangular shape, a polygonal shape, regular polygonal shape, parallelogram, diamond, oval or circular shape.
For each through opening 24, the internal contour of the opening delimits an internal area of the opening.
In the embodiment example in Figure 1 , the internal areas defined by the through openings 24 of the decorative layer 18 are substantially identical.
"Substantially identical" denotes that each internal area exhibits a deviation less than 10% from the mean value of the internal areas of the through openings 24 of the decorative layer 18.
For example, the through openings 24 of the layer 18 form a regular grid. More specifically, in the example illustrated in Figure 2, the through openings 24 of the layer 18 respectively have geometric centers distributed in a staggered grid.
Furthermore, for each through opening 24, the internal contour of the opening 24 has a greater dimension.
The greater dimension is in particular the cord joining two points of the internal contour having the greatest length, in a top view when the article 10 is arranged in a planar manner.
Advantageously, said greater dimension is greater than or equal to 0.20 mm, for example greater than or equal to 0.50 mm, for example greater than or equal than 0.65 mm, for example greater than or equal to 0.75 mm, for example greater than or equal to 1.00 mm.
The cosmetic article 10 furthermore has further features defined hereinafter.
In an embodiment, as illustrated in Figure 1 , the cosmetic article 10 has no additional layer applied against the external surface 34 of the decorative layer 18.
Thus, in this example, at least half of the external surface 34 of the decorative layer 18 is in contact with an air mass outside the cosmetic article 10. Advantageously, the entire external surface 34 of the decorative layer 18 is in contact with an air mass outside the cosmetic article 10.
In other words, the cosmetic article is devoid of a third layer and only comprises two layers: a decorative layer 18 and an adhesive layer 20.
Advantageously, between a first application and a tenth application on a substrate, the cosmetic article 10 has, for each application, a force required to detach the article 10 from the substrate, between 0.02 N and 0.8 N, and preferably between 0.04 N and 0.36 N.
Preferably, the cosmetic article 10 has a force required to detach the article 10 from the substrate, averaged on all the applications between a first application and a tenth application, between 0.02 N and 0.5 N, and preferably between 0.04 N and 0.36 N.
These forces are for example measured with the measurement protocol of the test entitled "peel test" defined hereinafter.
A cosmetic application method will now be described.
The method comprises providing the cosmetic article 10, 10B, 10C defined above.
The cosmetic article 10 is then applied on the body area of the user. In particular, the adhesive layer 20 of the article 10 is applied on said body area.
The application method optionally comprises adjusting the position of the cosmetic article on the body area. The adjustment then comprises for example the partial detachment of a part of the article from an initial position of said part on the body area, and another step of applying of the adhesive layer 20 of the part of the detached article at another position on the body area.
A method of manufacturing the cosmetic article 10 as described above will now be described.
The method comprises the step of providing a decorative layer 18 formed of a textile material, the textile material being formed from multi-strand yarns.
The textile material corresponds to that described above.
In particular, the textile material comprises multi-strand yarns, each multi-strand yarn comprising from 5 to 30 strands and having a yarn count of 10 to 40 dtex.
The method then comprises a step of applying an adhesive layer 20 formed by a biocompatible adhesive against the decorative layer 18, such that the adhesive layer 20 delimits at least one region filled with adhesive 21 and such that the decorative layer 18 is entirely mounted against the region filled with adhesive 21 of the adhesive layer 20.
Following the application step, the cosmetic article described above is then obtained.
In a preferred embodiment of the manufacturing method, the method also comprises, before the application step, a step of abrading an inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18, and, following the application step, said abraded inner surface 32 is in contact with the region filled with adhesive 21 of the adhesive layer 20.
The abrasion step comprises:
- tensioning said inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18, preferably, the entire decorative layer 18 is tensioned;
- rotating at least one cylinder having an abrasive coating, and
- passing the rotating cylinder on said inner surface 32.
In a first embodiment, the abrasive coating comprises needles, for example made of metal. The needles then scratch the inner surface 32, when the cylinder passes on the inner surface 32.
In a second additional or alternative embodiment, the abrasive coating comprises an emery coating.
Emery corresponds to an abrasive manufactured from a metamorphic rock essentially consisting of corundum.
The entire inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18 which is subsequently placed in contact with the region filled with adhesive 21 of the adhesive layer 20 is preferably abraded. Alternatively, only a part of the said inner surface 32 is abraded, which nonetheless increases the attachment of the adhesive layer 20 on the decorative layer 18. Preferably, after the abrasion step, said abraded inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18 has a mean surface roughness SMD of at least 5 pm, preferably at least 15 pm.
Advantageously, after the abrasion step, said abraded inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18 has a mean surface roughness SMD less than or equal to 30 pm, preferably less than or equal to 25 pm.
Said surface roughness SMD is preferably measured according to the protocol described hereinafter in the examples.
Advantageously, the mean surface roughness SMD displayed by said inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18 increases by at least 1 .5 pm, preferably at least 5 pm, following the abrasion step.
In other words, the mean surface roughness SMD displayed by said abraded inner surface 32 is greater by at least 1 .5 pm, preferably by at least 5 pm, compared to the nonabraded inner surface 32 of the decorative layer 18 provided previously.
In addition or as an alternative to the abrasion step, in a preferred embodiment of the manufacturing method, the method also comprises, before the application step, a step of washing the decorative layer 18 by means of a water charged with at least one non-ionic surfactant.
When the abrasion and washing steps have all been implemented, the washing step is preferably implemented after the abrasion step.
The washing step is preferably carried out at a temperature less than or equal to 50°C, for example around 40°C.
The washing step is preferably carried out with a washing rotation speed less than or equal to 30 rpm, for example around 20 rpm.
Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant used in the present invention has an HLB greater than or equal to 10, preferably greater than or equal to 12. As is well-known, HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) means the balance between size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. The HLB value as per GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249- 256.
Alternatively, preferably, the non-ionic surfactant used in the present invention has an HLB less than 10.
The non-ionic surfactant can be chosen from lactates, preferably ethyl lactate, optionally mixed with other compounds.
Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is a mixture of ethyl lactate, potassium 4- isopropylbenzenesulfonate and sodium 4-isopropylbenzenesulfonate. Such a mixture is marketed under the name Biotex Natural Oil by Prochimica Novarese. Examples:
Evaluation of the effect of the number of strands per yarn and of the yarn yarn count on attachment
The effect of the number of strands per yarn and of the yarn yarn count on attachment of the adhesive layer on the decorative layer was evaluated by comparing different test pieces.
A comparative test piece having a decorative layer only formed of single-strand yarns was compared to a test piece according to the invention made of tulle, subsequently corresponding to reference 659.
In particular, the decorative layer of test piece Tulle 659 was a tulle comprising PA yarns and EA yarns such that the composition of the decorative layer was 83% PA and 17% EA. The PA yarns all had 20 strands/yarn and a yarn count of 22 dtex; and the EA yarns were all single-strand and had a yarn count of 78 dtex. The adhesive layer was made of silicone at 60 g/m2 by weight.
The decorative layer of test piece Tulle 659 is illustrated in the photograph in Figure 2.
An uncertain or low adherence of the adhesive layer was observed for the comparative test piece, compared to the test piece according to the invention. Areas of the comparative test piece had little coating or were even devoid of adhesive layer.
It is also observed that the adhesive is an integral part of the fabric without for all that passing through it, which makes it possible to obtain an extremely thin article providing the user with a "second skin" effect, and which makes it possible to retain great flexibility and therefore comfort.
Evaluation of the effect of abrasion on surface roughness
The impact of abrasion on adherence was estimated by firstly evaluating the increase in the surface roughness SMD parameter of the decorative layer following the abrasion step.
The abrasion process is as follows, using the finished fabric without any treatment:
- passing on the abrasion machine, the fabric being tensioned, the machine between a LAFER machine comprising cylinders covered with metal needles rotating in the fabric direction at a rotation speed of 30” per meter;
- washing the fabric to remove any fibers;
- passing in a tentering machine and stabilizing the fabric with possible selvedge (fabric edges) trimming. The surface roughness SMD parameter corresponds to the mean variation of the relief on an unwinding cycle in pm (or mean linear deviation of the surface thickness), and is evaluated based on Kawabata type tests. The operating conditions for determining the surface roughness SMD are as follows:
- providing a sample corresponding to test piece Tulle 659 above and having an abraded face D, i.e., having undergone the abrasion process above, and a non-abraded face E;
- the sample conditioning and testing atmosphere is 23°C+/- 5°C and the humidity level is 50% +/- 4%;
- three series of measurements are made for the sample in an outbound direction and three series of measurements in the inbound direction (mean data);
- the sample, subjected to a typical constant tension of 120 g for 20 cm, passes under a roughness sensor of the KES-FB4 ("Kawabata Evaluation System for fabric B4") system, the probe corresponding to a filiform element made of steel of 5 by 10 mm in crosssection, 5 mm in width, with an exerted force of 10 g.f., orthogonal to the sample surface. The higher the surface roughness, the greater the resistance of the areas tested to the passage of the probe, and therefore the rougher they are (containing more relief);
- the sample moves at a speed of 1 .0 mm/s along 30 mm, in a two-way cycle;
- during the test, only 20 mm of the movement is taken into account, the end 5 mm of each half of the cycle being considered as transitory periods where the probes are locked mechanically;
- the surface roughness SMD is determined as the mean of the six measurements obtained in the outbound direction and the inbound direction.
The results collected for each tested face of the sample are grouped in the table hereinafter:
[Table 1 ] Results collected for each tested face of the sample
Figure imgf000016_0001
Thus, a deviation of 9.6 pm is observed between the roughness SMD of the abraded face D and that of the non-abraded face E. Furthermore, the data of each reference studied are well differentiated and the standard deviations are relevant and do not overlap, which indicates very different behaviors on this criterion.
The tests thus show that the abrasion process increases the roughness of the sample significantly. It is clear that the attachment of the adhesive layer on the decorative layer is therefore greatly improved thereby.
Evaluation of the effect of abrasion on article adherence
The impact of abrasion on adherence was then estimated by evaluating the adherence/peeling property, measured by a protocol derived from the principles described in the "NF EN 1372 and D11 1 158 Peeling/Adherence" standards by modifying the application protocol under the following successive test conditions:
- Apply the test piece on a leather substrate, the substrate being disposed on a sliding table of a Mecmesin 2.5XT tensile test bench, with a force sensor: 50N;
- Leave 40mm of the test piece free for its attachment with a grip, the grip being selftightening and mounted on a chain type flexible support device;
- Preliminary tensioning of the test piece to tighten the free part of the test piece held by the grip, the test piece being tensioned to implement a traction at a preloading speed of 30mm/min of the sliding table, until a value of 0.08N is read (i.e., approximately 0.15% of the maximum value of the 50N sensor);
- Move the sliding table at a movement speed of 100mm/min along a distance of 90mm, the grip being stationary in position relative to the table, the traction of the test piece remaining perpendicular and aligned with the axis of movement of the table (20mm of the test piece remains attached to the leather between each movement);
- Measure the adherence force of the test piece during the movement;
- Repeat the measurement 10 times with this test piece on the same substrate, with a 1 minute wait between each measurement, reattachment being implemented by moving the sliding table in the reverse direction.
The purpose of this test is to evaluate the detachment force at each application and after 10 applications.
The substrate is made of leather, having the dimensions 200mmx50mm, and attached to the glass plate. The substrate is a fine-grained leather having a surface roughness parameter Sa of 9.4pm. The measurements of the roughness parameter Sa are made by the surface method according to the ISO 4287 standard with a Keyence VHX 7000 microscope, with coaxial lighting, and X100 zoom for the measurement of the roughness parameter Sa. The roughness parameter Sa is the extension of the roughness parameter Ra (arithmetic mean height of a line) to a surface. It gives the arithmetic mean, in absolute values, of the difference in height of each point relative to the median plane of the surface.
Each test piece has the dimensions 150mmx25mm. The adhesive layer of the test pieces comprises silicone and corresponds to the trade name Silbione® 4743 marketed for example by ELKEM.
The tests were conducted on the test pieces from the following Table 1 : [Table 2] Description of test pieces
Figure imgf000018_0001
[Table 3] Percentage increase in averaged adherence force by abrasion compared to lack of abrasion
Figure imgf000018_0002
It is thus clear that the abrasion process increases the adherence of the cosmetic article on the substrate substantially. The fact that the adhesive holds well on the fabric also allows no deposition to occur on the skin, when detaching the article.
It is observed that the adhesive is an integral part of the cosmetic article without for all that passing through it, which makes it possible to obtain an extremely thin article and therefore a second skin effect, and moreover retain great flexibility and therefore great comfort.
Evaluation of the effect of washing with non-ionic surfactants
In order to evaluate the impact of washing with non-ionic surfactants, tests were conducted on the decorative layer of test piece T ulle 659 before applying the adhesive layer. During these tests, the decorative layer was washed with water with non-ionic surfactants according to the following parameters:
- surfactant product corresponding to the reference Biotex Natural Oil no Ionic from Prochimica Novarese; - washing temperature 40°C;
- washing machine speed at 20 rpm; and
- the fabric is removed wet to be thermofixed.
Following these tests, it was observed that washing with non-ionic surfactants makes it possible to remove lubricating oils which are placed on the yarns to protect the yarns and the machines during knitting, and remove the greases and oils from the machines.
Compared to a decorative layer without such a wash, it is in particular clear that the surface of the decorative layer is better prepared so that there is a better attachment of the adhesive layer.

Claims

1. Cosmetic article (10) is in particular intended to be applied on a body area of a user, the article comprising:
- an adhesive layer (20) formed by a biocompatible adhesive and delimiting at least one region filled with adhesive (21 );
- a decorative layer (18) entirely mounted against the region filled with adhesive (21 ) of the adhesive layer (20), the decorative layer (18) being formed of a textile material; characterized in that the textile material comprises at least multi-strand yarns, each multi-strand yarn comprising from 5 to 30 strands and having a yarn count of 10 to 40 dtex.
2. Cosmetic article (10) according to claim 1 , wherein each multi-strand yarn comprises from 15 to 25 strands and has a yarn count of 17 to 27 dtex.
3. Cosmetic article (10) according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the textile material is a fabric corresponding to a tulle or a lace.
4. Cosmetic article (10) according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein said multi-strand yarns form 100% of the textile material.
5. Cosmetic article (10) according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein said multi-strand yarns are yarns of a first type and the textile material furthermore comprises yarns of a second type different from the first type, the yarns of the first type forming at least 70% of the textile material, the yarns of the second type forming 30% or less of the textile material, preferably at least 10% of the textile material, each yarn of the second type having an elongation resistance at break greater than or equal to 300.0 %.
6. Cosmetic article (10) according to claim 5, wherein said yarns of the first type and said yarns of the second type together form 100% of the textile material.
7. Cosmetic article (10) according to any one of claims 5 or 6, wherein each yarn of the second type is multi-strand or single-strand and has a yarn count of 18 dtex to 95 dtex.
8. Cosmetic article (10) according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the adhesive layer is made at least of silicone and has a mass density greater than or equal to 40 g/m2 and less than or equal to 180 g/m2, and preferably greater than or equal to 55 g/m2 and less than or equal to 95 g/m2; or the adhesive layer is made at least of acrylic and has a mass density greater than or equal to 5 g/m2 and less than or equal to 35 g/m2, preferably greater than or equal to 15 g/m2 and less than or equal to 25 g/m2.
9. Method for manufacturing a cosmetic article (10) comprising the following steps:
- providing a decorative layer (18) formed of a textile material, the textile material being formed from multi-strand yarns;
- applying an adhesive layer (20) formed by a biocompatible adhesive against the decorative layer (18), such that the adhesive layer (20) delimits at least one region filled with adhesive (21 ) and such that the decorative layer (18) is entirely mounted against the region filled with adhesive (21 ) of the adhesive layer (20); characterized in that the textile material comprises multi-strand yarns, each multistrand yarn comprising from 5 to 30 strands and having a yarn count of 10 to 40 dtex.
10. Manufacturing method according to claim 9, wherein the method also comprises, before the application step, a step of abrading an inner surface (32) of the decorative layer (18), and, following the application step, said abraded inner surface is in contact with the region filled with adhesive (21 ) of the adhesive layer (20).
11. Manufacturing method according to claim 10, wherein, after the abrasion step, said abraded inner surface (32) of the decorative layer (18) has a mean surface roughness SMD of at least 5 pm, preferably at least 15 pm.
12. Manufacturing method according to any one of claims 10 or 11 , wherein the mean surface roughness SMD displayed by said inner surface (32) of the decorative layer (18) increases by at least 1 .5 pm, preferably at least 5 pm, following the abrasion step.
13. Manufacturing method according to any one of claims 10 to 12, wherein the abrasion step comprises tensioning of said inner surface (32) of the decorative layer (18), rotation of at least one cylinder having an abrasive coating, and passage of the cylinder during rotation on said inner surface (32), the abrasive coating preferably comprising needles and/or an emery coating
14. Manufacturing method according to any one of claims 9 to 13, wherein the method also comprises, before the application step, a step of washing the decorative layer (18) by means of a water charged with non-ionic surfactants.
PCT/EP2023/087244 2022-12-22 2023-12-21 Cosmetic article and associated manufacturing method WO2024133666A1 (en)

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