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WO2024127665A1 - A cosmetic composition comprising a porous silica treated with a dextrin fatty acid ester - Google Patents

A cosmetic composition comprising a porous silica treated with a dextrin fatty acid ester Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024127665A1
WO2024127665A1 PCT/JP2022/046496 JP2022046496W WO2024127665A1 WO 2024127665 A1 WO2024127665 A1 WO 2024127665A1 JP 2022046496 W JP2022046496 W JP 2022046496W WO 2024127665 A1 WO2024127665 A1 WO 2024127665A1
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Prior art keywords
mass
acid
composition according
component
cosmetic composition
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PCT/JP2022/046496
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Hideshi Gohara
Yurie Asami
Kenta Fujioka
Koichi Hata
Original Assignee
Lvmh Recherche
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Priority to PCT/JP2022/046496 priority Critical patent/WO2024127665A1/en
Publication of WO2024127665A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024127665A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0279Porous; Hollow
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85Polyesters
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06Lipsticks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61Surface treated
    • A61K2800/612By organic compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition.
  • Silica is often added to cosmetics such as foundations (see Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2011-213662 and Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2021-107372). Because silica has a light-scattering effect, application of silica-containing cosmetics to skin produces a blurring effect that helps to conceal pores and skin irregularities under the cosmetic.
  • a cosmetic composition containing silica is less likely to form a coating on skin, making it difficult to maintain the makeup for prolonged periods. In other words, it has been difficult to simultaneously improve both the blurring effect and long-lasting effect.
  • a film-forming agent is used in a large amount to facilitate formation of a homogenous film of a silica-containing cosmetic composition, the result has been undesirable as the cosmetic composition produces a sticky feel and fails to provide a comfortable skin finish.
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising (A) a porous silica treated with a dextrin esterified with a fatty acid (also referred as “dextrin fatty acid ester” in the description), (B) a volatile hydrocarbon oil, (C) a hydrophobically treated coloring pigment and (D) a surfactant.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention includes component (A), as one of its features.
  • the excellent blurring effect to hide skin irregularities such as wrinkles and pores is thought to be attributed primarily to this feature. Since the porous silica of component (A) is treated with a dextrin fatty acid ester, the silica molecules do not directly contact each other and it is thought to allow the aforementioned problem of adhesion to be solved. As a result, the cosmetic composition of the invention tends to form a homogeneous film when applied onto skin and is thought to exhibit a long-lasting effect even when a large amount of film-forming agent has not been added. This also allows the cosmetic composition to avoid producing a sticky feel.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention including component (A) is thereby thought to be able to provide a comfortable finish while also simultaneously exhibiting an excellent blurring effect and long-lasting effect.
  • porous silica Since treatment of the porous silica with a dextrin fatty acid ester is important as mentioned above, it is not sufficient for the dextrin fatty acid ester to merely be present in the cosmetic composition together with the porous silica. That the porous silica is treated with a dextrin fatty acid ester means that at least a portion of the surface and/or interior of the porous silica has been coated with the dextrin fatty acid ester.
  • the present invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the dextrin fatty acid ester is an esterified compound of a dextrin and a branched fatty acid.
  • the invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the fatty acid is a fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the fatty acid is at least one selected from the group consisting of isopalmitic acid, isostearic acid, isoarachic acid and 18-methyleicosanoic acid.
  • the invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the dextrin fatty acid ester is a dextrin isostearate.
  • the invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the particle size of the porous silica is 1 to 20 ⁇ m.
  • the invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the specific surface area of the porous silica is 100 to 1000 m 2 /g.
  • the invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the porous volume per unit mass of the porous silica is 0.5 to 5 ml/g.
  • the invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the pore size of the porous silica is 1 to 100 nm.
  • the invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the oil absorption of the porous silica is 50 to 500 ml/100 g.
  • the invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the content of component (A) is 1 to 25%, preferably 1 to 20 %, by mass based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • component (B) comprises a volatile linear hydrocarbon having 9 to 15 carbon atoms.
  • the invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the particle size of the coloring pigment is less than 1 ⁇ m.
  • component (D) comprises a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 6 or less.
  • the invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of water and alcohol.
  • the invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the content of component (B) is 1 to 80%, preferably 1 to 70%, by mass based on the total mass of the composition.
  • the invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the component (A) comprises a dextrin isostearate treated porous silica, the component (B) comprises C9-C12 alkane, the component (C) comprises a pigmentary iron oxide treated by isopropyltitanium triisostearate, Na lauroyl aspartate and zinc chloride, and a titanium dioxide treated by isopropyltitanium triisostearate, Na lauroyl aspartate and zinc chloride, and the component (D) comprises polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, sorbitan sesquioleate and polyhydroxystearic acid.
  • the component (A) comprises a dextrin isostearate treated porous silica
  • the component (B) comprises C9-C12 alkane
  • the component (C) comprises a pigmentary iron oxide treated by isopropyltitanium triisostearate, Na lauroyl aspartate and zinc chloride
  • a titanium dioxide treated by iso
  • the invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 1 to 25% of the component (A), 1 to 80% of the component (B), 1 to 40% of the component (C), and 1 to 25 % of the component (D), based on the total amount of the composition.
  • the invention provides a cosmetic-process for caring for and/or making-up keratinic materials, wherein the cosmetic-process comprises the application onto keratinic materials, in particular onto skin, of the cosmetic composition.
  • the invention also provides the cosmetic-process wherein the cosmetic composition provides the keratinic materials on which it is applied with a blurring effect, a long-lasting effect and a comfortable finish.
  • a cosmetic composition that can exhibit an excellent blurring effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable finish.
  • the cosmetic composition according to one embodiment includes (A) porous silica that has been treated with a dextrin fatty acid ester.
  • the dextrin fatty acid ester may be an ester compound of dextrin with a straight-chain fatty acid or branched-chain fatty acid.
  • the dextrin fatty acid ester is preferably an ester compound of dextrin with a branched-chain fatty acid. If the fatty acid forming the ester with dextrin is a branched-chain fatty acid, the cosmetic composition will be able to exhibit more satisfactory softness due to the branched chains.
  • the dextrin fatty acid ester may be one represented by the general formula (Ia) or (Ib) below, for example.
  • the symbol “A” in the general formulas represents a residue remaining after removing an OH group from the fatty acid, and some of the A groups may be hydrogen atoms.
  • the "*" symbol indicates a bonding site.
  • the residue remaining after removing an OH group from the fatty acid may be a residue remaining after removing an OH group from a straight-chain saturated fatty acid of 2 to 22 carbon atoms such as acetic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachic acid or behenic acid; a residue remaining after removing an OH group from a branched saturated fatty acid of 4 to 14 carbon atoms such as isobutyric acid, isovaleric acid, 2-ethylbutyric acid, ethylmethylacetic acid, isoheptanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isodecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid or isomyristic acid; a residue remaining after removing an OH group from a branched-chain fatty acid of 16 to 22 carbon atoms such as isopalmitic acid, isostea
  • An ester of dextrin and a fatty acid is preferably a dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate, palmitic acid/dextrin 2-ethylhexanoate, dextrin stearate, palmitic acid/dextrin stearate, dextrin oleate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachate or dextrin 18-methyleicosanoate, with dextrin isostearate being more preferred.
  • the porous silica may also be further treated with another hydrophobic agent other than a dextrin fatty acid ester.
  • the other hydrophobic agent may be one or more selected from the group consisting of silicone compounds, fluorine compounds, oils, fats, phospholipids, amino acids, higher alcohols, waxes, polymers and resins.
  • the porous silica may also be further treated with a hydrophobic agent other than an oil agent, silicone or fluorine compound among the other hydrophobic agents mentioned above.
  • the porous silica may be one that is not treated with a ceramide.
  • the porous silica may also be one that is not treated with a silicone-acrylic copolymer.
  • the mass of the hydrophobic agent-derived portion of component (A) may be 1 to 15 mass%, 1 to 10 mass%, 1 to 5 mass%, 2 to 15 mass%, 2 to 10 mass%, 2 to 8 mass%, 2 to 5 mass%, 3 to 15 mass%, 3 to 10 mass%, 3 to 8 mass% or 3 to 5 mass%, based on the total mass of the hydrophobically treated porous silica. If the hydrophobic agent content is within these ranges the dispersibility of component (A) will be more excellent and the emulsified stability, coverage effect and long-lasting effect of the cosmetic composition can be further increased. In this description, a coverage effect may be an optical coverage effect. If the hydrophobic agent content is within these ranges the surface of the porous silica can also be adequately covered, thus helping to inhibit a powdery feel.
  • Porous silica also qualifies as a body pigment.
  • body pigment is used to clearly distinguish it from coloring pigments that are added mainly for the purpose of coloring a cosmetic composition.
  • a body pigment also known as a “filler”, is a substance that forms a lattice for a powder foundation, for example.
  • porous silica Since porous silica has pores it has excellent adsorption properties for sebum and sweat, making it possible to avoid an oily skin finish. That is why porous silica is preferred to non-porous silica.
  • the shape of the porous silica particle may be spherical.
  • the cosmetic composition will have improved smoothness when applied to skin.
  • contact between the porous silica or contact between the porous silica and skin has conventionally occurred in a punctiform manner rather than across the surface, and therefore silica-containing cosmetic compositions have been less likely to form homogeneous films on skin, and it has been especially difficult to prolong the makeup effect.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention therefore does not require a large amount of film-forming agent, although a certain amount of film-forming agent may still be added in a range that allows the effect of the invention to be obtained.
  • the number-mean particle size of the porous silica may be 1 to 20 ⁇ m, preferably 2 to 15 ⁇ m, more preferably 4 to 12 ⁇ m or most preferably 3 to 6 ⁇ m. If the number-mean particle size of the porous silica is within these ranges it will be possible to obtain a more excellent blurring effect, a longer-lasting effect and a superior comfortable finish. Moreover, if the number-mean particle size of the porous silica is within these ranges, a high coverage effect can be obtained and an aesthetic makeup effect can be obtained when the cosmetic composition is applied onto skin.
  • the specific surface area of the porous silica may be 100 to 1000 m 2 /g, preferably 200 to 1000 m 2 /g, more preferably 300 to 1000 m 2 /g, even more preferably 400 to 1000 m 2 /g, yet even more preferably 500 to 1000 m 2 /g or most preferably 600 to 900 m 2 /g.
  • the specific surface area of the porous silica can be determined by measuring the adsorption of nitrogen into the porous silica and analyzing it using the BET method. If the specific surface area of the porous silica is within these ranges it will be possible to obtain a more excellent blurring effect, a longer-lasting effect and a superior comfortable finish. Moreover, if the specific surface area of the porous silica is within these ranges, a high coverage effect can be obtained and an aesthetic makeup effect can be obtained when the cosmetic composition is applied onto skin.
  • the pore volume per unit mass of the porous silica may be 0.5 to 5 ml/g, 1 to 5 ml/g or 1 to 3 ml/g. If the pore volume per unit mass of the porous silica is within these ranges it will be possible to obtain a more excellent blurring effect, a longer-lasting effect and a superior comfortable finish. Moreover, if the pore volume per unit mass of the porous silica is within these ranges, a high coverage effect can be obtained and an aesthetic makeup effect can be obtained when the cosmetic composition is applied onto skin.
  • the pore diameter (porous size, pore size) of the porous silica may be 1 to 100 nm, 1 to 80 nm, 1 to 60 nm, 1 to 40 nm, 1 to 20 nm, 1 to 10 nm or 1 to 5 nm. If the pore diameter of the porous silica is within these ranges it will be possible to obtain a more excellent blurring effect, a longer-lasting effect and a superior comfortable finish. Moreover, if the pore diameter of the porous silica is within these ranges, a high coverage effect can be obtained and an aesthetic makeup effect can be obtained when the cosmetic composition is applied onto skin.
  • the oil absorption of the porous silica may be 50 to 500 ml/100 g, 100 to 400 ml/100 g, 100 to 300 ml/100 g or 100 to 200 ml/100 g. If the oil absorption of the porous silica is within these ranges it will be possible to obtain a more excellent blurring effect, a longer-lasting effect and a superior comfortable finish. Moreover, if the oil absorption of the porous silica is within these ranges, a high coverage effect can be obtained and an aesthetic makeup effect can be obtained when the cosmetic composition is applied onto skin.
  • the content of component (A) may be 1 to 25 mass%, 1 to 20 mass%, 1 to 15 mass%, 1 to 12 mass%, 3 to 25 mass%, 3 to 20 mass%, 3 to 15 mass%, 3 to 12 mass%, 5 to 25 mass%, 5 to 20 mass%, 5 to 15 mass%, 5 to 12 mass%, 7 to 25 mass%, 7 to 20 mass%, 7 to 15 mass% or 7 to 12 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of component (A) is within these ranges it will be possible to obtain a more excellent blurring effect, a longer-lasting effect and a superior comfortable finish. Moreover, if the content of component (A) is within these ranges, a high coverage effect can be obtained and an aesthetic makeup effect can be obtained when the cosmetic composition is applied onto skin.
  • the cosmetic composition according to one embodiment comprises (B) a volatile hydrocarbon oil.
  • Component (B) may include a volatile straight-chain hydrocarbon oil or a volatile branched-chain hydrocarbon oil.
  • Component (B) may be a polar oil or non-polar oil.
  • volatile oil means an oil which has lost 4% or more by mass after 60 minutes of drying at the temperature of 33°C and the humidity of 55%, according to the following protocol: 20 mg of the oil to be studied is weighed on a 5 cm ⁇ 5 cm polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plate using a micropipette and a precision balance. The oil to be studied is spread with a finger over the entire plate. The plate is then placed in a ventilated enclosure thermostatically controlled to 33°C and 55% humidity. The test is carried out 3 times for each oil. The loss of mass during drying is measured after 60 minutes. The mass lost is expressed according to the following formula (1):
  • m tx represents the mass of the plate measured at 60 minutes after the start of drying
  • m t0 represents the mass of the plate measured before drying.
  • a volatile hydrocarbon oil is a liquid at ordinary temperature and ordinary pressure, and may also be considered to be a gradually-vaporizing oily component.
  • Component (B) may further include a volatile hydrocarbon oil of 8 to 19 carbon atoms.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon oil is free from oxygen atom.
  • Component (B) may be at least one selected from the group consisting of branched C8-C16 alkanes (such as isoparaffins, isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane), linear C8-C16 alkanes (such as nonane, decane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, pentadecane and hexadecane), mixtures of C9-C15 alkanes, mixtures of C9-C17 alkanes, mixtures of C10-C14 alkanes, mixtures of undecane and tridecane, mixtures of C15-C19 alkanes, mixtures of C9-C12 alkanes, mixtures of C13-C15 alkanes, mixtures of C12-C14 alkanes,
  • the slightly volatile oil comprises isohexadecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, C13-15 alkane and C15-19 alkane. If the cosmetic composition comprises the slightly volatile oil, the smoothness of the cosmetic composition tends to be improved.
  • An oil which has the mass loss value of 30% or more but not more than 80% by mass can be called a “moderate volatile oil”.
  • the moderate volatile oil comprises undecane, dodecane, tridecane and C9-12 alkane (linear). If the cosmetic composition comprises the moderate volatile oil, the balance of the smoothness and the skin adhesiveness of the cosmetic composition can be improved.
  • An oil which has the mass loss value of 80% or more by mass can be called a “highly volatile oil”.
  • the highly volatile oil comprises nonane, decane, isododecane and C9-12 alkane (branched). If the cosmetic composition comprises the highly volatile oil, the skin adhesiveness of the cosmetic composition tends to be improved.
  • the content of component (B) may be 1 to 80 mass%, 1 to 70 mass%, 1 to 60 mass%, 1 to 50 mass%, 1 to 40 mass%, 1 to 35 mass%, 1 to 30 mass%, 1 to 25 mass%, 1 to 20 mass%, 5 to 80 mass%, 5 to 70 mass%, 5 to 60 mass%, 5 to 50 mass%, 5 to 40 mass%, 5 to 35 mass%, 5 to 30 mass%, 5 to 25 mass%, 5 to 20 mass%, 10 to 80 mass%, 10 to 70 mass%, 10 to 60 mass%, 10 to 50 mass%, 10 to 40 mass%, 10 to 35 mass%, 10 to 30 mass%, 10 to 25 mass%, 10 to 20 mass%, 15 to 80 mass%, 15 to 70 mass%, 15 to 60 mass%, 15 to 50 mass%, 15 to 40 mass%, 15 to 35 mass%, 15 to 30 mass%, 15 to 25 mass%, 15 to 20 mass% or 20 to 40 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • component (B) If the content of component (B) is within these ranges it will be possible to obtain a further improved coverage effect and long-lasting effect, as well as a superior comfortable finish. Moreover, if the content of component (B) is within these ranges it will be less likely to produce a dry stiff feeling, skin irritation or blocking feel when the cosmetic composition is applied onto skin, and this is therefore preferred from the viewpoint of the feel during use.
  • the cosmetic composition includes (C) a hydrophobically treated coloring pigment.
  • At least a portion of the surface and/or interior of the coloring pigment may be covered with one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of dextrin fatty acid ester, silicone compounds, amino acid derivatives, organic titanates, fluorine compounds, metal soaps and glycerin fatty acid esters.
  • dextrin fatty acid ester for treatment of the coloring pigment include the same ones mentioned for component (A).
  • Component (C) preferably includes a coloring pigment that has been hydrophobically treated with dextrin isostearate.
  • the coloring pigment may also be further surface-treated with aluminum hydroxide or alumina. Particularly when the coloring pigment is one with catalytic activity, such as titanium dioxide, aluminum hydroxide is effective for sealing the catalytic activity.
  • coloring pigments include metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, aluminum oxide, bengala, Prussian blue, chromium oxide and chromium hydroxide, metal complexes such as manganese violet and cobalt titanate, and carbon black. Titanium dioxide is known as a white pigment, and iron oxide is known as a red, yellow or black colored pigment. These may be appropriately combined for adjustment to a desired color tone.
  • the cosmetic composition may also include a non-hydrophobic-treated coloring agent other than component (C) as a pigment. Specifically, it may include any pigment mentioned as a coloring pigment for component (C) that has not been hydrophobically treated, such as an organic pigment such as D&C Red No. 7 or D&C Red No. 6.
  • the mean particle size of the coloring pigment is less than 1 ⁇ m.
  • the mean particle size of the coloring pigment may be 100 to 900 nm, 100 to 400 nm, 150 to 400 nm, 150 to 350 nm, 100 to 250 nm, 200 to 800 nm, 300 to 700 nm or 400 to 600 nm.
  • Silicone compounds include monomethylpolysiloxane (methicone) and dialkylpolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone).
  • Silane compounds include trialkylalkoxysilanes such as trimethylmethoxysilane and triethoxycaprylylsilane.
  • An amino acid derivative may be a derivative of an amino acid such as glycine, alanine, sarcosine, proline, hydroxyproline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid or lysine.
  • the derivative is preferably an amino acid acylated with a fatty acid.
  • Fatty acids used for acylation are preferably saturated or unsaturated fatty acids of 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably saturated or unsaturated fatty acids of 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • Saturated fatty acids of 8 to 20 carbon atoms include caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid and cerotic acid.
  • unsaturated fatty acids of 8 to 20 carbon atoms include myristic acid, palmitoleic acid, sapienic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, vaccenic acid, linolelaidic acid, ⁇ -linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, ersinic acid, docosahexaenoic acid.
  • Acylated amino acids include stearoylglutamic acid, lauroylglutamic acid, myristoylglutamic acid, stearoyllysine, lauroyllysine and myristoyllysine.
  • Preferred acylated amino acids are stearoylglutamic acid and myristoylglutamic acid.
  • An acylated amino acid may also be a salt of sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or aluminum. Examples of acylated amino acid salts include sodium lauroyl aspartate and disodium stearoyl glutamate.
  • Organic titanates include titanate-based coupling agents such as isopropyltitanium triisostearate.
  • Fluorine compounds include perfluoroalkylphosphoric acids and their salts, perfluoropolyethers, fluoroalkoxysilanes, perfluoroalkylalkoxysilanes (such as perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane), perfluoropolyether alkylphosphoric acids and their salts, and perfluoroalkylsilanes.
  • Metal soaps include stearic acid soap, 12-hydroxystearic acid soap, behenic acid soap, montanic acid soap and lauric acid soap.
  • Glycerin fatty acid esters include glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl monooleate.
  • the content of component (C) may be 1 to 40 mass%, 1 to 35 mass%, 1 to 30 mass%, 1 to 25 mass%, 1 to 20 mass%, 1 to 18 mass%, 5 to 40 mass%, 5 to 35 mass%, 5 to 30 mass%, 5 to 25 mass%, 5 to 20 mass%, 5 to 18 mass%, 10 to 40 mass%, 10 to 35 mass%, 10 to 30 mass%, 10 to 25 mass%, 10 to 20 mass%, 10 to 18 mass%, 15 to 40 mass%, 15 to 35 mass%, 15 to 30 mass%, 15 to 25 mass%, 15 to 20 mass% or 15 to 18 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of component (C) is within these ranges it will be possible to obtain a further improved coverage effect and long-lasting effect, as well as a superior comfortable finish.
  • the mass of the portion of component (C) due to the hydrophobic agent may be 1 to 10 mass%, 1 to 5 mass%, 2 to 8 mass% or 3 to 6 mass%, based on the total mass of the hydrophobically treated coloring pigment. If the hydrophobic agent content is within these ranges the dispersibility of component (C) will be more excellent and the emulsified stability, coverage effect and long-lasting effect of the cosmetic composition can be further increased. If the hydrophobic agent content is within these ranges the surface of the coloring pigment can also be adequately covered, thus helping to inhibit a powdery feel.
  • the cosmetic composition of this embodiment includes (D) a surfactant.
  • the surfactant may be a surfactant (hydrocarbon-based surfactant) having a hydrocarbon-derived structure.
  • the surfactant may be a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 6 or lower.
  • the HLB value of component (D) may be 2 to 7, 3 to 7, 3 to 6 or 4 to 6.
  • the HLB value of component (D) may also be 1 or greater, 2 or greater or 3 or greater.
  • Nonionic surfactants with HLB values of 6 or lower include polyglycerol fatty acid polyesters such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleate and polyglyceryl-4 polyricinoleate; sorbitan fatty acid esters such as sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan oleate and sorbitan sesquioleate; propylene glycol fatty acid esters such as propyleneglycol stearate; ethylene glycol fatty acid esters such as glycol stearate; silicone-based surfactants such as polyether-modified silicone and polyglycerin-modified silicone; sucrose fatty acid esters; and polyhydroxystearic acid.
  • the content of component (D) may be 1 to 25 mass%, 1 to 20 mass%, 1 to 15 mass%, 1 to 10 mass%, 3 to 25 mass%, 3 to 20 mass%, 3 to 15 mass%, 3 to 10 mass%, 5 to 25 mass%, 5 to 20 mass%, 5 to 15 mass%, 5 to 10 mass%, 7 to 25 mass%, 7 to 20 mass%, 7 to 15 mass% or 7 to 10 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of component (D) is within these ranges, the emulsified state will be more stabilized and a higher coverage effect and more comfortable feel can be obtained.
  • the cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may also include an aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase may include one or more components selected from the group consisting of purified water and alcohols.
  • An alcohol may include a polyol of 1 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • polyols of 1 to 8 carbon atoms include ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol (propanediol), glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol (pentylene glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol and glycerin.
  • the content of the polyol of 1 to 8 carbon atoms may be 1 to 20 mass%, 3 to 150 mass% or 5 to 10 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of the polyol of 1 to 8 carbon atoms is within these ranges it will be possible to further increase the moisturizing effect without destabilizing the emulsified state.
  • the alcohol may also include a monoalcohol of 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • monools of 1 to 3 carbon atoms include ethanol, 1-propanol and 2-propanol (isopropanol).
  • the content of the monoalcohol of 1 to 3 carbon atoms may be 1 to 20 mass%, 1 to 10 mass% or 1 to 5 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of the monool of 1 to 3 carbon atoms is within these ranges it will be easier to form a homogeneous film, and the coverage effect and long-lasting effect can be further increased.
  • the content of aqueous phase components may be 10 to 80 mass%, 15 to 70 mass%, 20 to 60 mass%, 25 to 50 mass%, 30 to 40 mass% or 30 to 35 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of aqueous phase components is within these ranges, then the freshness and coverage effect will be further improved when the cosmetic composition is applied onto skin, and the stability of the cosmetic composition will be further improved.
  • the cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may also include a non-volatile oil.
  • a non-volatile oil is an oil component that is liquid at ordinary temperature (in the range of 20 to 25°C) and ordinary pressure (1 atmosphere). More specifically, the non-volatile oil is an oil component having a mass loss value (formula (1)) of less than 4% after 60 minutes of drying at the temperature of 33°C and the humidity of 55%, according to the abovementioned protocol.
  • the non-volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon oil, higher alcohol, ester oil or vegetable oil, for example.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon oils examples include squalane, liquid paraffin, vaseline, polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene and olefin oligomers.
  • Higher alcohols are aliphatic monoalcohols of 6 or more carbon atoms, and preferably aliphatic monoalcohols of 12 to 28 carbon atoms. Examples of higher alcohols include octyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, ceryl alcohol and myrisyl alcohol.
  • Ester oils are carboxylic acid esters that are liquid in environments at ordinary temperature and pressure (for example, in the range of 20 to 25°C, 1 atmosphere) and do not gasify, and are preferably carboxylic acid alkyl esters wherein the carboxylic acid or alcohol of the ester has 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • esters examples include propylene glycol fatty acid esters such as propylene glycol dicaprylate and propylene glycol dicaprate; fatty acid alkyl esters such as ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, coconut oil caprylate/caprate and isononyl isononanoate; carbonic acid esters such as dicaprylyl carbonate; tri or greater fatty acid esters of polyglycerol such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate and polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate; glycerin tri fatty acid esters (also known as triglyceride oils) such as glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl tribehenate, glyceryl tri(caprylate/
  • vegetable oils examples include meadowfoam seed oil, olive fruit oil, camellia oil, coconut oil, macadamia nut oil, rosehip oil, avocado oil, sunflower seed oil, rice bran oil, castor oil and almond oil.
  • the content of the non-volatile oil may be 1 to 70 mass%, 1 to 50 mass%, 1 to 30 mass%, 1 to 20 mass%, 1 to 10 mass%, 1 to 5 mass%, 20 to 70 mass%, 20 to 50 mass%, 20 to 40 mass%, 20 to 30 mass%, 40 to 70 mass%, 40 to 60 mass% or 40 to 50 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of the non-volatile oil is 1 mass% or greater a higher moisturizing effect will be exhibited, with an even higher moisturizing effect tending to be exhibited as the content of the non-volatile oil increases, at least up to 70 mass%.
  • the content of the non-volatile oil is 70 mass% or lower the long-lasting effect will be increased, since the cosmetic layer that is formed will be resistant to plasticization, with an even longer lasting effect tending to be exhibited as the content of the non-volatile oil decreases, at least up to 1 mass%.
  • the cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may also include an oily gelling agent. If the cosmetic composition includes an oily gelling agent, it will be possible to form a three-dimensional higher-order structure (for example, a mesh-like three-dimensional structure) due to interaction between components or colloid particles that are dissolved or dispersed in the cosmetic composition. As a result, the flow property of the composition will tend to be lower and the viscosity will tend to increase.
  • an oily gelling agent can function as a thickener. Increased viscosity results in a higher coverage effect and long-lasting effect, and can also exhibit an effect of inhibiting aggregation and/or caking of the pigment with prolonged storage.
  • oily gelling agents examples include organic modified clays, metal soaps, 12-hydroxystearic acid, sugar fatty acid esters, dextrin fatty acid ester such as dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, dextrin (palmitate/ethylhexanoate) and dextrin (palmitate/hexyldecanoate), amino acid-based gelling agents, silica microparticles (with diameters of less than 1 ⁇ m), and mixtures of the same.
  • An oily gelling agent preferably includes an organic modified clay, with organic modified clays including disteardimonium hectorite and stearalkonium chloride hectorite.
  • the cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may also include a solid fat. If the cosmetic composition includes a solid fat it will be possible to form a three-dimensional higher-order structure wherein the components or colloid particles that are dissolved or dispersed in the cosmetic composition have a crystalline or eutectic structure (for example, a card house structure). As a result, the flow property of the cosmetic composition tends to be reduced, increasing the viscosity, and in some cases the cosmetic composition may completely solidify. In other words, a solid fat can function as a thickener. Increased viscosity results in a higher coverage effect and long-lasting effect, and can also exhibit an effect of inhibiting aggregation and/or caking of the pigment with prolonged storage.
  • a solid fat can function as a thickener. Increased viscosity results in a higher coverage effect and long-lasting effect, and can also exhibit an effect of inhibiting aggregation and/or caking of the pigment with prolonged storage.
  • solid fats examples include solid higher alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, hydrocarbon waxes such as polyethylene wax and synthetic wax, vegetable waxes and naturally-derived waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, beeswax, rice wax and sunflower seed oil (sunflower wax), and fatty acid esters such as palmityl palmitate, stearyl stearate and behenyl behenate.
  • the solid fat may be 0.5 to 30 mass%, 1 to 20 mass% or 5 to 15 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the content of the solid fat is within these ranges, the emulsified state will be more stabilized and a higher coverage effect and more comfortable feel can be obtained.
  • a solid fat content of 9 mass% or greater, (such as 9 to 20 mass% or 9 to 15 mass%) based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition can produce an effect of tending to more stably solidify the cosmetic composition.
  • a solid cosmetic composition is also superior in terms of portable convenience.
  • the cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may also comprise an ultraviolet scattering agent.
  • Ultraviolet scattering agents include inorganic powder particles such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide, where the inorganic powder particles are not surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent.
  • Ultraviolet scattering agents also include microparticle powder having a particle size of 100 nm or smaller, aggregates or condensates of the microparticle powder, or powder with a high ultraviolet light-scattering effect, having a particle size of 100 to 500 nm.
  • the cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may further comprise a spherical powder such as cellulose or starch, a stabilizer such as a salt; or an antimicrobial agent; antioxidant; aromatic; or active ingredient.
  • the cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may be a cosmetic composition that contains essentially or absolutely no cyclic silicone. If the cosmetic composition "contains essentially no" cyclic silicone, then the content of the cyclic silicone may be 0.01 mass% or lower, 0.001 mass% or lower or 0.0001 mass% or lower, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to one embodiment, and particularly a liquid cosmetic composition may have a viscosity at 25°C that is 150 to 10,000 mPa.s (millipascal second), preferably 1000 to 8000 mPa.s, more preferably 1200 to 6000 mPa.s, even more preferably 1400 to 4000 mPa.s or most preferably 1600 to 2500 mPa.s.
  • the viscosity is measured using a rotational viscometer (for example, a Rheolab QC by Anton Paar GmbH), inserting an ST22-4V-40 spindle into the cosmetic composition that is housed in a container with an inner diameter of 4.5 cm and kept at 25°C, with measurement for 3 minutes at a rotational speed of 100 rpm.
  • the cosmetic composition according to one embodiment can be obtained by mixing together the oil-soluble components such as component (A), component (B), component (C) and component (D). If necessary, water-soluble components may then be combined with the obtained mixture, in which case the resulting cosmetic composition will be a water-in-oil cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may be a solid cosmetic composition, liquid cosmetic composition, powder cosmetic composition or cream cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to another embodiment may be a liquid foundation, solid foundation, liquid concealer, solid concealer, stick lipstick, liquid lipstick or cosmetic base.
  • NAI surface treatment means surface treatment with disodium stearoylglutamate, supplied by Miyoshi Kasei, Inc..
  • the "5% dextrin isostearate surface-treated porous silica” includes 5 mass% dextrin isostearate and 95 mass% porous silica, based on the total mass.
  • the numerical values listed in the Examples and Comparative Examples are totaled to 100 mass%.
  • QSP in this case means the remaining amount.
  • Cosmetic compositions for Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were prepared by the following procedure using the components listed in Tables 1 and 2. The units for the contents of each of the components in Tables 1 and 2 are mass%.
  • the "Alcohol" in Tables 1 and 2 is ethanol.
  • Step 1 The oil-soluble components such as component (A), component (B), component (C) and component (D) were mixed using a homogenizer at room temperature.
  • Step 2 Purified water, glycerin, propanediol and ethanol were mixed at room temperature using a homogenizer.
  • Step 3 The mixture obtained in step 2 was added to the mixture obtained in step 1, and the resulting mixture was emulsified using a homogenizer.
  • SUNSPHERE H-51 The properties of SUNSPHERE H-51, SUNSPHERE H-33 and SUNSPHERE NP100 in Tables 1 and 2 are shown in Table 3.
  • the cosmetic compositions of each of the Examples and Comparative Examples were applied onto the facial skin by an evaluation panel of cosmetic experts, and their blurring effect, coverage effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable finish were evaluated on the following scale.
  • the term "blemish” refers to a portion of the skin that appears darker than the surrounding area due to deposition of pigments such as melanin present on the surface or inside the skin.
  • Comfortable finish A Very good (e.g.: very strong fresh sensation, absolutely no stickiness felt.)
  • Production method 1 Components 1 to 13 were heated to dissolution at 90°C. 2) Components 14 to 19 were added to 1) kept at 90°C and mixed and dispersed with a homogenizer, after which the resulting mixture was poured into a die at 90°C and allowed to stand at room temperature, and then removed from the die to obtain a matte stick lipstick.
  • the obtained matte stick lipstick was a cosmetic exhibiting an excellent blurring effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable finish as a matte lipstick.
  • the obtained lipstick was also convenient to use since it was in stick form.
  • Production method 1 Components 1 to 13 were heated to dissolution at 90°C. 2) Components 14 to 19 were added to 1) kept at 90°C and mixed and dispersed with a homogenizer while cooling to room temperature, and then packed into an applicator-equipped container to obtain a matte liquid lipstick.
  • the obtained matte liquid lipstick was a cosmetic exhibiting an excellent blurring effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable finish as a matte lipstick.
  • Production method 1 Components 1 to 13 were heated to dissolution at 90°C. 2) Components 14 to 18 were added to 1) kept at 90°C, mixed and dispersed with a homogenizer and directly packed into a molding container and cooled to room temperature, to obtain a solid oily foundation.
  • the obtained solid oily foundation was a cosmetic exhibiting an excellent blurring effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable finish as a matte lipstick.
  • the obtained foundation was also convenient to use and portable, since it was in solid compact form.
  • NAI Surface-treated yellow iron oxide 0.5 17.
  • NAI Surface-treated black iron oxide 0.2 18.
  • Production method 1 Components 1 to 13 were heated to dissolution at 90°C. 2) Components 14 to 18 were added to 1) kept at 90°C, and mixed and dispersed with a homogenizer. 3) Components 19 to 23 heated to 80°C were loaded into 2) kept at 90°C, and the mixture was emulsified. 4) The uniform mixture 3) was packed into a compact molding container at 90°C and cooled to room temperature to obtain a solid water-in-oil emulsified foundation.
  • the obtained solid water-in-oil emulsified foundation was a cosmetic exhibiting an excellent blurring effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable finish.
  • the obtained foundation was also convenient to use and portable, since it was in a form of solid compact.

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Abstract

A cosmetic composition comprising (A) a porous silica treated with a dextrin fatty acid ester, (B) a volatile hydrocarbon oil, (C) a hydrophobically treated coloring pigment and (D) a surfactant.

Description

A COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POROUS SILICA TREATED WITH A DEXTRIN FATTY ACID ESTER
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition.
Silica is often added to cosmetics such as foundations (see Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2011-213662 and Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2021-107372). Because silica has a light-scattering effect, application of silica-containing cosmetics to skin produces a blurring effect that helps to conceal pores and skin irregularities under the cosmetic.
However, since adhesion is lacking between silica or between silica and the skin, a cosmetic composition containing silica is less likely to form a coating on skin, making it difficult to maintain the makeup for prolonged periods. In other words, it has been difficult to simultaneously improve both the blurring effect and long-lasting effect. When a film-forming agent is used in a large amount to facilitate formation of a homogenous film of a silica-containing cosmetic composition, the result has been undesirable as the cosmetic composition produces a sticky feel and fails to provide a comfortable skin finish.
It is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition that can produce an excellent blurring effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable finish.
The present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising (A) a porous silica treated with a dextrin esterified with a fatty acid (also referred as “dextrin fatty acid ester” in the description), (B) a volatile hydrocarbon oil, (C) a hydrophobically treated coloring pigment and (D) a surfactant.
The cosmetic composition of the invention includes component (A), as one of its features. The excellent blurring effect to hide skin irregularities such as wrinkles and pores is thought to be attributed primarily to this feature. Since the porous silica of component (A) is treated with a dextrin fatty acid ester, the silica molecules do not directly contact each other and it is thought to allow the aforementioned problem of adhesion to be solved. As a result, the cosmetic composition of the invention tends to form a homogeneous film when applied onto skin and is thought to exhibit a long-lasting effect even when a large amount of film-forming agent has not been added. This also allows the cosmetic composition to avoid producing a sticky feel. The cosmetic composition of the invention including component (A) is thereby thought to be able to provide a comfortable finish while also simultaneously exhibiting an excellent blurring effect and long-lasting effect.
Since treatment of the porous silica with a dextrin fatty acid ester is important as mentioned above, it is not sufficient for the dextrin fatty acid ester to merely be present in the cosmetic composition together with the porous silica. That the porous silica is treated with a dextrin fatty acid ester means that at least a portion of the surface and/or interior of the porous silica has been coated with the dextrin fatty acid ester.
The present invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the dextrin fatty acid ester is an esterified compound of a dextrin and a branched fatty acid.
The invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the fatty acid is a fatty acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
The invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the fatty acid is at least one selected from the group consisting of isopalmitic acid, isostearic acid, isoarachic acid and 18-methyleicosanoic acid.
The invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the dextrin fatty acid ester is a dextrin isostearate.
The invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the particle size of the porous silica is 1 to 20 μm.
The invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the specific surface area of the porous silica is 100 to 1000 m2/g.
The invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the porous volume per unit mass of the porous silica is 0.5 to 5 ml/g.
The invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the pore size of the porous silica is 1 to 100 nm.
The invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the oil absorption of the porous silica is 50 to 500 ml/100 g.
The invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the content of component (A) is 1 to 25%, preferably 1 to 20 %, by mass based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
The invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein component (B) comprises a volatile linear hydrocarbon having 9 to 15 carbon atoms.
The invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the particle size of the coloring pigment is less than 1 μm.
The invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein component (D) comprises a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 6 or less.
The invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of water and alcohol.
The invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the content of component (B) is 1 to 80%, preferably 1 to 70%, by mass based on the total mass of the composition.
The invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the component (A) comprises a dextrin isostearate treated porous silica, the component (B) comprises C9-C12 alkane, the component (C) comprises a pigmentary iron oxide treated by isopropyltitanium triisostearate, Na lauroyl aspartate and zinc chloride, and a titanium dioxide treated by isopropyltitanium triisostearate, Na lauroyl aspartate and zinc chloride, and the component (D) comprises polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, sorbitan sesquioleate and polyhydroxystearic acid.
The invention also provides the cosmetic composition wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 1 to 25% of the component (A), 1 to 80% of the component (B), 1 to 40% of the component (C), and 1 to 25 % of the component (D), based on the total amount of the composition.
The invention provides a cosmetic-process for caring for and/or making-up keratinic materials, wherein the cosmetic-process comprises the application onto keratinic materials, in particular onto skin, of the cosmetic composition.
The invention also provides the cosmetic-process wherein the cosmetic composition provides the keratinic materials on which it is applied with a blurring effect, a long-lasting effect and a comfortable finish.
According to the invention there is provided a cosmetic composition that can exhibit an excellent blurring effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable finish.
The cosmetic composition according to one embodiment includes (A) porous silica that has been treated with a dextrin fatty acid ester. The dextrin fatty acid ester may be an ester compound of dextrin with a straight-chain fatty acid or branched-chain fatty acid. The dextrin fatty acid ester is preferably an ester compound of dextrin with a branched-chain fatty acid. If the fatty acid forming the ester with dextrin is a branched-chain fatty acid, the cosmetic composition will be able to exhibit more satisfactory softness due to the branched chains.
The dextrin fatty acid ester may be one represented by the general formula (Ia) or (Ib) below, for example. The symbol "A" in the general formulas represents a residue remaining after removing an OH group from the fatty acid, and some of the A groups may be hydrogen atoms. The "*" symbol indicates a bonding site. The residue remaining after removing an OH group from the fatty acid may be a residue remaining after removing an OH group from a straight-chain saturated fatty acid of 2 to 22 carbon atoms such as acetic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachic acid or behenic acid; a residue remaining after removing an OH group from a branched saturated fatty acid of 4 to 14 carbon atoms such as isobutyric acid, isovaleric acid, 2-ethylbutyric acid, ethylmethylacetic acid, isoheptanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isodecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid or isomyristic acid; a residue remaining after removing an OH group from a branched-chain fatty acid of 16 to 22 carbon atoms such as isopalmitic acid, isostearic acid, isoarachic acid or 18-methyleicosanoic acid; a residue remaining after removing an OH group from a monoenoic unsaturated fatty acid such as cis-4-decenoic (obtusilic) acid, 9-decenoic (caproleic) acid, cis-4-dodecenoic (linderic) acid, cis-4-tetradecenoic (tsuzuic) acid, cis-5-tetradecenoic (fisiteric) acid, cis-9-tetradecenoic (myristoleic) acid, cis-6-hexadecenoic acid, cis-9-hexadecenoic (palmitoleic) acid, cis-9-octadecenoic (oleic) acid, trans-9-octadecenoic acid (elaidic acid), cis-11-octadecenoic (asclepic) acid, cis-11-eicosenoic (gondoleic) acid, cis-17-hexacosenoic (ximenic) acid or cis-21-triacontenoic (lumecitric) acid; a residue remaining after removing an OH group from a straight-chain or branched unsaturated fatty acid of 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as a polyenoic unsaturated fatty acid such as sorbic acid, linoleic acid, hiragonic acid, punicic acid, α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, moroctic acid, stearidonic acid, arachidonic acid, EPA, clupanodonic acid, DHA, nisinic acid, stearolic acid, crepenynic acid or ximenynic acid; or a residue remaining after removing an OH group from a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid of 6 to 30 carbon atoms having a cyclic structure for at least a portion of the basic skeleton, such as 9,10-methylene-9-octadecenoic acid, aleprylic acid, alepric acid, gorlic acid, α-cyclopentyl acid, α-cyclohexyl acid, α-cyclopentylethyl acid, α-cyclohexylmethyl acid, ω-cyclohexyl acid, 5(6)-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexen-1-octanoic acid, malvalic acid, sterculic acid, hydnocarpic acid or chaulmoogric acid. The fatty acid forming an ester with dextrin is preferably a branched-chain saturated fatty acid of 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-C000001
An ester of dextrin and a fatty acid is preferably a dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate, palmitic acid/dextrin 2-ethylhexanoate, dextrin stearate, palmitic acid/dextrin stearate, dextrin oleate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachate or dextrin 18-methyleicosanoate, with dextrin isostearate being more preferred.
The porous silica may also be further treated with another hydrophobic agent other than a dextrin fatty acid ester. The other hydrophobic agent may be one or more selected from the group consisting of silicone compounds, fluorine compounds, oils, fats, phospholipids, amino acids, higher alcohols, waxes, polymers and resins. The porous silica may also be further treated with a hydrophobic agent other than an oil agent, silicone or fluorine compound among the other hydrophobic agents mentioned above. The porous silica may be one that is not treated with a ceramide. The porous silica may also be one that is not treated with a silicone-acrylic copolymer.
The mass of the hydrophobic agent-derived portion of component (A) may be 1 to 15 mass%, 1 to 10 mass%, 1 to 5 mass%, 2 to 15 mass%, 2 to 10 mass%, 2 to 8 mass%, 2 to 5 mass%, 3 to 15 mass%, 3 to 10 mass%, 3 to 8 mass% or 3 to 5 mass%, based on the total mass of the hydrophobically treated porous silica. If the hydrophobic agent content is within these ranges the dispersibility of component (A) will be more excellent and the emulsified stability, coverage effect and long-lasting effect of the cosmetic composition can be further increased. In this description, a coverage effect may be an optical coverage effect. If the hydrophobic agent content is within these ranges the surface of the porous silica can also be adequately covered, thus helping to inhibit a powdery feel.
Porous silica also qualifies as a body pigment. The term "body pigment" is used to clearly distinguish it from coloring pigments that are added mainly for the purpose of coloring a cosmetic composition. A body pigment, also known as a “filler”, is a substance that forms a lattice for a powder foundation, for example.
Since porous silica has pores it has excellent adsorption properties for sebum and sweat, making it possible to avoid an oily skin finish. That is why porous silica is preferred to non-porous silica. The shape of the porous silica particle may be spherical. When the porous silica is spherical, the cosmetic composition will have improved smoothness when applied to skin. When using spherical porous silica, contact between the porous silica or contact between the porous silica and skin has conventionally occurred in a punctiform manner rather than across the surface, and therefore silica-containing cosmetic compositions have been less likely to form homogeneous films on skin, and it has been especially difficult to prolong the makeup effect. According to the invention, however, it is possible to form a homogeneous film without problems even when the porous silica is spherical, and to prolong the makeup effect. The cosmetic composition of the invention therefore does not require a large amount of film-forming agent, although a certain amount of film-forming agent may still be added in a range that allows the effect of the invention to be obtained.
The number-mean particle size of the porous silica may be 1 to 20 μm, preferably 2 to 15 μm, more preferably 4 to 12 μm or most preferably 3 to 6 μm. If the number-mean particle size of the porous silica is within these ranges it will be possible to obtain a more excellent blurring effect, a longer-lasting effect and a superior comfortable finish. Moreover, if the number-mean particle size of the porous silica is within these ranges, a high coverage effect can be obtained and an aesthetic makeup effect can be obtained when the cosmetic composition is applied onto skin.
The specific surface area of the porous silica may be 100 to 1000 m2/g, preferably 200 to 1000 m2/g, more preferably 300 to 1000 m2/g, even more preferably 400 to 1000 m2/g, yet even more preferably 500 to 1000 m2/g or most preferably 600 to 900 m2/g. The specific surface area of the porous silica can be determined by measuring the adsorption of nitrogen into the porous silica and analyzing it using the BET method. If the specific surface area of the porous silica is within these ranges it will be possible to obtain a more excellent blurring effect, a longer-lasting effect and a superior comfortable finish. Moreover, if the specific surface area of the porous silica is within these ranges, a high coverage effect can be obtained and an aesthetic makeup effect can be obtained when the cosmetic composition is applied onto skin.
The pore volume per unit mass of the porous silica may be 0.5 to 5 ml/g, 1 to 5 ml/g or 1 to 3 ml/g. If the pore volume per unit mass of the porous silica is within these ranges it will be possible to obtain a more excellent blurring effect, a longer-lasting effect and a superior comfortable finish. Moreover, if the pore volume per unit mass of the porous silica is within these ranges, a high coverage effect can be obtained and an aesthetic makeup effect can be obtained when the cosmetic composition is applied onto skin.
The pore diameter (porous size, pore size) of the porous silica may be 1 to 100 nm, 1 to 80 nm, 1 to 60 nm, 1 to 40 nm, 1 to 20 nm, 1 to 10 nm or 1 to 5 nm. If the pore diameter of the porous silica is within these ranges it will be possible to obtain a more excellent blurring effect, a longer-lasting effect and a superior comfortable finish. Moreover, if the pore diameter of the porous silica is within these ranges, a high coverage effect can be obtained and an aesthetic makeup effect can be obtained when the cosmetic composition is applied onto skin.
The oil absorption of the porous silica may be 50 to 500 ml/100 g, 100 to 400 ml/100 g, 100 to 300 ml/100 g or 100 to 200 ml/100 g. If the oil absorption of the porous silica is within these ranges it will be possible to obtain a more excellent blurring effect, a longer-lasting effect and a superior comfortable finish. Moreover, if the oil absorption of the porous silica is within these ranges, a high coverage effect can be obtained and an aesthetic makeup effect can be obtained when the cosmetic composition is applied onto skin.
The content of component (A) may be 1 to 25 mass%, 1 to 20 mass%, 1 to 15 mass%, 1 to 12 mass%, 3 to 25 mass%, 3 to 20 mass%, 3 to 15 mass%, 3 to 12 mass%, 5 to 25 mass%, 5 to 20 mass%, 5 to 15 mass%, 5 to 12 mass%, 7 to 25 mass%, 7 to 20 mass%, 7 to 15 mass% or 7 to 12 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of component (A) is within these ranges it will be possible to obtain a more excellent blurring effect, a longer-lasting effect and a superior comfortable finish. Moreover, if the content of component (A) is within these ranges, a high coverage effect can be obtained and an aesthetic makeup effect can be obtained when the cosmetic composition is applied onto skin.
The cosmetic composition according to one embodiment comprises (B) a volatile hydrocarbon oil. Component (B) may include a volatile straight-chain hydrocarbon oil or a volatile branched-chain hydrocarbon oil. Component (B) may be a polar oil or non-polar oil.
The term "volatile oil" means an oil which has lost 4% or more by mass after 60 minutes of drying at the temperature of 33℃ and the humidity of 55%, according to the following protocol: 20 mg of the oil to be studied is weighed on a 5 cm × 5 cm polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plate using a micropipette and a precision balance. The oil to be studied is spread with a finger over the entire plate. The plate is then placed in a ventilated enclosure thermostatically controlled to 33℃ and 55% humidity. The test is carried out 3 times for each oil. The loss of mass during drying is measured after 60 minutes. The mass lost is expressed according to the following formula (1):
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-M000002
In formula (1), mtx represents the mass of the plate measured at 60 minutes after the start of drying, and mt0 represents the mass of the plate measured before drying. A volatile hydrocarbon oil is a liquid at ordinary temperature and ordinary pressure, and may also be considered to be a gradually-vaporizing oily component.
Component (B) may further include a volatile hydrocarbon oil of 8 to 19 carbon atoms. Preferably the volatile hydrocarbon oil is free from oxygen atom. Component (B) may be at least one selected from the group consisting of branched C8-C16 alkanes (such as isoparaffins, isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane), linear C8-C16 alkanes (such as nonane, decane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, pentadecane and hexadecane), mixtures of C9-C15 alkanes, mixtures of C9-C17 alkanes, mixtures of C10-C14 alkanes, mixtures of undecane and tridecane, mixtures of C15-C19 alkanes, mixtures of C9-C12 alkanes, mixtures of C13-C15 alkanes, mixtures of C12-C14 alkanes, n-dodecane, n-tetradecane and hydrogenated farnesene. Component (B) preferably includes a volatile linear hydrocarbon having 9 to 12 carbon atoms, a volatile linear hydrocarbon having 13 to 15 carbon atoms, or a mixture of the foregoing.
An oil which has the mass loss value of 4% or more but not more than 30% by mass can be called a “slightly volatile oil”. The slightly volatile oil comprises isohexadecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, C13-15 alkane and C15-19 alkane. If the cosmetic composition comprises the slightly volatile oil, the smoothness of the cosmetic composition tends to be improved.
An oil which has the mass loss value of 30% or more but not more than 80% by mass can be called a “moderate volatile oil”. The moderate volatile oil comprises undecane, dodecane, tridecane and C9-12 alkane (linear). If the cosmetic composition comprises the moderate volatile oil, the balance of the smoothness and the skin adhesiveness of the cosmetic composition can be improved.
An oil which has the mass loss value of 80% or more by mass can be called a “highly volatile oil”. The highly volatile oil comprises nonane, decane, isododecane and C9-12 alkane (branched). If the cosmetic composition comprises the highly volatile oil, the skin adhesiveness of the cosmetic composition tends to be improved.
The content of component (B) may be 1 to 80 mass%, 1 to 70 mass%, 1 to 60 mass%, 1 to 50 mass%, 1 to 40 mass%, 1 to 35 mass%, 1 to 30 mass%, 1 to 25 mass%, 1 to 20 mass%, 5 to 80 mass%, 5 to 70 mass%, 5 to 60 mass%, 5 to 50 mass%, 5 to 40 mass%, 5 to 35 mass%, 5 to 30 mass%, 5 to 25 mass%, 5 to 20 mass%, 10 to 80 mass%, 10 to 70 mass%, 10 to 60 mass%, 10 to 50 mass%, 10 to 40 mass%, 10 to 35 mass%, 10 to 30 mass%, 10 to 25 mass%, 10 to 20 mass%, 15 to 80 mass%, 15 to 70 mass%, 15 to 60 mass%, 15 to 50 mass%, 15 to 40 mass%, 15 to 35 mass%, 15 to 30 mass%, 15 to 25 mass%, 15 to 20 mass% or 20 to 40 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of component (B) is within these ranges it will be possible to obtain a further improved coverage effect and long-lasting effect, as well as a superior comfortable finish. Moreover, if the content of component (B) is within these ranges it will be less likely to produce a dry stiff feeling, skin irritation or blocking feel when the cosmetic composition is applied onto skin, and this is therefore preferred from the viewpoint of the feel during use.
The cosmetic composition includes (C) a hydrophobically treated coloring pigment.
At least a portion of the surface and/or interior of the coloring pigment may be covered with one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of dextrin fatty acid ester, silicone compounds, amino acid derivatives, organic titanates, fluorine compounds, metal soaps and glycerin fatty acid esters. Specific examples of dextrin fatty acid ester for treatment of the coloring pigment include the same ones mentioned for component (A). Component (C) preferably includes a coloring pigment that has been hydrophobically treated with dextrin isostearate. The coloring pigment may also be further surface-treated with aluminum hydroxide or alumina. Particularly when the coloring pigment is one with catalytic activity, such as titanium dioxide, aluminum hydroxide is effective for sealing the catalytic activity.
Examples of coloring pigments include metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, aluminum oxide, bengala, Prussian blue, chromium oxide and chromium hydroxide, metal complexes such as manganese violet and cobalt titanate, and carbon black. Titanium dioxide is known as a white pigment, and iron oxide is known as a red, yellow or black colored pigment. These may be appropriately combined for adjustment to a desired color tone. The cosmetic composition may also include a non-hydrophobic-treated coloring agent other than component (C) as a pigment. Specifically, it may include any pigment mentioned as a coloring pigment for component (C) that has not been hydrophobically treated, such as an organic pigment such as D&C Red No. 7 or D&C Red No. 6.
The mean particle size of the coloring pigment is less than 1 μm. The mean particle size of the coloring pigment may be 100 to 900 nm, 100 to 400 nm, 150 to 400 nm, 150 to 350 nm, 100 to 250 nm, 200 to 800 nm, 300 to 700 nm or 400 to 600 nm.
Silicone compounds include monomethylpolysiloxane (methicone) and dialkylpolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone). Silane compounds include trialkylalkoxysilanes such as trimethylmethoxysilane and triethoxycaprylylsilane.
An amino acid derivative may be a derivative of an amino acid such as glycine, alanine, sarcosine, proline, hydroxyproline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid or lysine. The derivative is preferably an amino acid acylated with a fatty acid. Fatty acids used for acylation are preferably saturated or unsaturated fatty acids of 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably saturated or unsaturated fatty acids of 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
Saturated fatty acids of 8 to 20 carbon atoms include caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid and cerotic acid. Examples of unsaturated fatty acids of 8 to 20 carbon atoms include myristic acid, palmitoleic acid, sapienic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, vaccenic acid, linolelaidic acid, α-linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, ersinic acid, docosahexaenoic acid.
Acylated amino acids include stearoylglutamic acid, lauroylglutamic acid, myristoylglutamic acid, stearoyllysine, lauroyllysine and myristoyllysine. Preferred acylated amino acids are stearoylglutamic acid and myristoylglutamic acid. An acylated amino acid may also be a salt of sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or aluminum. Examples of acylated amino acid salts include sodium lauroyl aspartate and disodium stearoyl glutamate.
Organic titanates include titanate-based coupling agents such as isopropyltitanium triisostearate.
Fluorine compounds include perfluoroalkylphosphoric acids and their salts, perfluoropolyethers, fluoroalkoxysilanes, perfluoroalkylalkoxysilanes (such as perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane), perfluoropolyether alkylphosphoric acids and their salts, and perfluoroalkylsilanes.
Metal soaps include stearic acid soap, 12-hydroxystearic acid soap, behenic acid soap, montanic acid soap and lauric acid soap.
Glycerin fatty acid esters include glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl monooleate.
The content of component (C) may be 1 to 40 mass%, 1 to 35 mass%, 1 to 30 mass%, 1 to 25 mass%, 1 to 20 mass%, 1 to 18 mass%, 5 to 40 mass%, 5 to 35 mass%, 5 to 30 mass%, 5 to 25 mass%, 5 to 20 mass%, 5 to 18 mass%, 10 to 40 mass%, 10 to 35 mass%, 10 to 30 mass%, 10 to 25 mass%, 10 to 20 mass%, 10 to 18 mass%, 15 to 40 mass%, 15 to 35 mass%, 15 to 30 mass%, 15 to 25 mass%, 15 to 20 mass% or 15 to 18 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of component (C) is within these ranges it will be possible to obtain a further improved coverage effect and long-lasting effect, as well as a superior comfortable finish.
The mass of the portion of component (C) due to the hydrophobic agent may be 1 to 10 mass%, 1 to 5 mass%, 2 to 8 mass% or 3 to 6 mass%, based on the total mass of the hydrophobically treated coloring pigment. If the hydrophobic agent content is within these ranges the dispersibility of component (C) will be more excellent and the emulsified stability, coverage effect and long-lasting effect of the cosmetic composition can be further increased. If the hydrophobic agent content is within these ranges the surface of the coloring pigment can also be adequately covered, thus helping to inhibit a powdery feel.
The cosmetic composition of this embodiment includes (D) a surfactant. The surfactant may be a surfactant (hydrocarbon-based surfactant) having a hydrocarbon-derived structure. The surfactant may be a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 6 or lower. The HLB value of component (D) may be 2 to 7, 3 to 7, 3 to 6 or 4 to 6. The HLB value of component (D) may also be 1 or greater, 2 or greater or 3 or greater.
Nonionic surfactants with HLB values of 6 or lower include polyglycerol fatty acid polyesters such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleate and polyglyceryl-4 polyricinoleate; sorbitan fatty acid esters such as sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan oleate and sorbitan sesquioleate; propylene glycol fatty acid esters such as propyleneglycol stearate; ethylene glycol fatty acid esters such as glycol stearate; silicone-based surfactants such as polyether-modified silicone and polyglycerin-modified silicone; sucrose fatty acid esters; and polyhydroxystearic acid.
The content of component (D) may be 1 to 25 mass%, 1 to 20 mass%, 1 to 15 mass%, 1 to 10 mass%, 3 to 25 mass%, 3 to 20 mass%, 3 to 15 mass%, 3 to 10 mass%, 5 to 25 mass%, 5 to 20 mass%, 5 to 15 mass%, 5 to 10 mass%, 7 to 25 mass%, 7 to 20 mass%, 7 to 15 mass% or 7 to 10 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of component (D) is within these ranges, the emulsified state will be more stabilized and a higher coverage effect and more comfortable feel can be obtained.
The cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may also include an aqueous phase. The aqueous phase may include one or more components selected from the group consisting of purified water and alcohols.
An alcohol may include a polyol of 1 to 8 carbon atoms. Examples of polyols of 1 to 8 carbon atoms include ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol (propanediol), glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol (pentylene glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol and glycerin.
The content of the polyol of 1 to 8 carbon atoms may be 1 to 20 mass%, 3 to 150 mass% or 5 to 10 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of the polyol of 1 to 8 carbon atoms is within these ranges it will be possible to further increase the moisturizing effect without destabilizing the emulsified state.
The alcohol may also include a monoalcohol of 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Examples of monools of 1 to 3 carbon atoms include ethanol, 1-propanol and 2-propanol (isopropanol).
The content of the monoalcohol of 1 to 3 carbon atoms may be 1 to 20 mass%, 1 to 10 mass% or 1 to 5 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of the monool of 1 to 3 carbon atoms is within these ranges it will be easier to form a homogeneous film, and the coverage effect and long-lasting effect can be further increased.
The content of aqueous phase components may be 10 to 80 mass%, 15 to 70 mass%, 20 to 60 mass%, 25 to 50 mass%, 30 to 40 mass% or 30 to 35 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of aqueous phase components is within these ranges, then the freshness and coverage effect will be further improved when the cosmetic composition is applied onto skin, and the stability of the cosmetic composition will be further improved.
The cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may also include a non-volatile oil. A non-volatile oil is an oil component that is liquid at ordinary temperature (in the range of 20 to 25°C) and ordinary pressure (1 atmosphere). More specifically, the non-volatile oil is an oil component having a mass loss value (formula (1)) of less than 4% after 60 minutes of drying at the temperature of 33℃ and the humidity of 55%, according to the abovementioned protocol.
The non-volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon oil, higher alcohol, ester oil or vegetable oil, for example.
Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils include squalane, liquid paraffin, vaseline, polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene and olefin oligomers.
Higher alcohols are aliphatic monoalcohols of 6 or more carbon atoms, and preferably aliphatic monoalcohols of 12 to 28 carbon atoms. Examples of higher alcohols include octyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, ceryl alcohol and myrisyl alcohol.
Ester oils are carboxylic acid esters that are liquid in environments at ordinary temperature and pressure (for example, in the range of 20 to 25°C, 1 atmosphere) and do not gasify, and are preferably carboxylic acid alkyl esters wherein the carboxylic acid or alcohol of the ester has 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Examples of such esters include propylene glycol fatty acid esters such as propylene glycol dicaprylate and propylene glycol dicaprate; fatty acid alkyl esters such as ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, coconut oil caprylate/caprate and isononyl isononanoate; carbonic acid esters such as dicaprylyl carbonate; tri or greater fatty acid esters of polyglycerol such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate and polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate; glycerin tri fatty acid esters (also known as triglyceride oils) such as glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl tribehenate, glyceryl tri(caprylate/caprate) and triheptanoin; benzoic acid derivatives such as diisostearyl malate and alkyl (C12-15) benzoates; salicylic acid derivatives such as homosalates and ethylhexyl salicylate; alkyl esters such as coconut oil alkyl (caprylate/caprate); cinnamic acid derivatives such as octyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, cinnoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate and glyceryl-ethylhexanoate-dimethoxycinnamate and di-(2-ethylhexyl)-4'-methoxybenzalmalonate; and β,β-diphenyl acrylate derivatives such as octocrylene.
Examples of vegetable oils include meadowfoam seed oil, olive fruit oil, camellia oil, coconut oil, macadamia nut oil, rosehip oil, avocado oil, sunflower seed oil, rice bran oil, castor oil and almond oil.
The content of the non-volatile oil may be 1 to 70 mass%, 1 to 50 mass%, 1 to 30 mass%, 1 to 20 mass%, 1 to 10 mass%, 1 to 5 mass%, 20 to 70 mass%, 20 to 50 mass%, 20 to 40 mass%, 20 to 30 mass%, 40 to 70 mass%, 40 to 60 mass% or 40 to 50 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of the non-volatile oil is 1 mass% or greater a higher moisturizing effect will be exhibited, with an even higher moisturizing effect tending to be exhibited as the content of the non-volatile oil increases, at least up to 70 mass%. If the content of the non-volatile oil is 70 mass% or lower the long-lasting effect will be increased, since the cosmetic layer that is formed will be resistant to plasticization, with an even longer lasting effect tending to be exhibited as the content of the non-volatile oil decreases, at least up to 1 mass%.
The cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may also include an oily gelling agent. If the cosmetic composition includes an oily gelling agent, it will be possible to form a three-dimensional higher-order structure (for example, a mesh-like three-dimensional structure) due to interaction between components or colloid particles that are dissolved or dispersed in the cosmetic composition. As a result, the flow property of the composition will tend to be lower and the viscosity will tend to increase. In other words, an oily gelling agent can function as a thickener. Increased viscosity results in a higher coverage effect and long-lasting effect, and can also exhibit an effect of inhibiting aggregation and/or caking of the pigment with prolonged storage.
Examples of oily gelling agents include organic modified clays, metal soaps, 12-hydroxystearic acid, sugar fatty acid esters, dextrin fatty acid ester such as dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, dextrin (palmitate/ethylhexanoate) and dextrin (palmitate/hexyldecanoate), amino acid-based gelling agents, silica microparticles (with diameters of less than 1 μm), and mixtures of the same. An oily gelling agent preferably includes an organic modified clay, with organic modified clays including disteardimonium hectorite and stearalkonium chloride hectorite.
The cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may also include a solid fat. If the cosmetic composition includes a solid fat it will be possible to form a three-dimensional higher-order structure wherein the components or colloid particles that are dissolved or dispersed in the cosmetic composition have a crystalline or eutectic structure (for example, a card house structure). As a result, the flow property of the cosmetic composition tends to be reduced, increasing the viscosity, and in some cases the cosmetic composition may completely solidify. In other words, a solid fat can function as a thickener. Increased viscosity results in a higher coverage effect and long-lasting effect, and can also exhibit an effect of inhibiting aggregation and/or caking of the pigment with prolonged storage.
Examples of solid fats include solid higher alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, hydrocarbon waxes such as polyethylene wax and synthetic wax, vegetable waxes and naturally-derived waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, beeswax, rice wax and sunflower seed oil (sunflower wax), and fatty acid esters such as palmityl palmitate, stearyl stearate and behenyl behenate. Including a solid fat in the cosmetic composition will allow a solid cosmetic composition to be produced as one embodiment of the invention. The solid fat may be 0.5 to 30 mass%, 1 to 20 mass% or 5 to 15 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of the solid fat is within these ranges, the emulsified state will be more stabilized and a higher coverage effect and more comfortable feel can be obtained. In addition, a solid fat content of 9 mass% or greater, (such as 9 to 20 mass% or 9 to 15 mass%) based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition can produce an effect of tending to more stably solidify the cosmetic composition. A solid cosmetic composition is also superior in terms of portable convenience.
The cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may also comprise an ultraviolet scattering agent. Ultraviolet scattering agents include inorganic powder particles such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide, where the inorganic powder particles are not surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent. Ultraviolet scattering agents also include microparticle powder having a particle size of 100 nm or smaller, aggregates or condensates of the microparticle powder, or powder with a high ultraviolet light-scattering effect, having a particle size of 100 to 500 nm.
The cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may further comprise a spherical powder such as cellulose or starch, a stabilizer such as a salt; or an antimicrobial agent; antioxidant; aromatic; or active ingredient.
The cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may be a cosmetic composition that contains essentially or absolutely no cyclic silicone. If the cosmetic composition "contains essentially no" cyclic silicone, then the content of the cyclic silicone may be 0.01 mass% or lower, 0.001 mass% or lower or 0.0001 mass% or lower, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
The cosmetic composition according to one embodiment, and particularly a liquid cosmetic composition, may have a viscosity at 25°C that is 150 to 10,000 mPa.s (millipascal second), preferably 1000 to 8000 mPa.s, more preferably 1200 to 6000 mPa.s, even more preferably 1400 to 4000 mPa.s or most preferably 1600 to 2500 mPa.s. The viscosity is measured using a rotational viscometer (for example, a Rheolab QC by Anton Paar GmbH), inserting an ST22-4V-40 spindle into the cosmetic composition that is housed in a container with an inner diameter of 4.5 cm and kept at 25°C, with measurement for 3 minutes at a rotational speed of 100 rpm.
The cosmetic composition according to one embodiment can be obtained by mixing together the oil-soluble components such as component (A), component (B), component (C) and component (D). If necessary, water-soluble components may then be combined with the obtained mixture, in which case the resulting cosmetic composition will be a water-in-oil cosmetic composition.
The cosmetic composition according to one embodiment may be a solid cosmetic composition, liquid cosmetic composition, powder cosmetic composition or cream cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition according to another embodiment may be a liquid foundation, solid foundation, liquid concealer, solid concealer, stick lipstick, liquid lipstick or cosmetic base.
The present invention will now be explained by the following examples, with the understanding that the invention is not limited by the examples. "NAI surface treatment" means surface treatment with disodium stearoylglutamate, supplied by Miyoshi Kasei, Inc.. The "5% dextrin isostearate surface-treated porous silica" includes 5 mass% dextrin isostearate and 95 mass% porous silica, based on the total mass. The numerical values listed in the Examples and Comparative Examples are totaled to 100 mass%. QSP in this case means the remaining amount.
Cosmetic compositions for Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were prepared by the following procedure using the components listed in Tables 1 and 2. The units for the contents of each of the components in Tables 1 and 2 are mass%. The "Alcohol" in Tables 1 and 2 is ethanol.
Step 1: The oil-soluble components such as component (A), component (B), component (C) and component (D) were mixed using a homogenizer at room temperature.
Step 2: Purified water, glycerin, propanediol and ethanol were mixed at room temperature using a homogenizer.
Step 3: The mixture obtained in step 2 was added to the mixture obtained in step 1, and the resulting mixture was emulsified using a homogenizer.
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000003
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000004
The properties of SUNSPHERE H-51, SUNSPHERE H-33 and SUNSPHERE NP100 in Tables 1 and 2 are shown in Table 3.
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000005
The properties of the cosmetic compositions of the Examples and Comparative Examples were measured by the following methods.
The cosmetic compositions of each of the Examples and Comparative Examples were applied onto the facial skin by an evaluation panel of cosmetic experts, and their blurring effect, coverage effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable finish were evaluated on the following scale. The term "blemish" refers to a portion of the skin that appears darker than the surrounding area due to deposition of pigments such as melanin present on the surface or inside the skin.
(1) Blurring effect
A: Very good (e.g.: pores and wrinkles completely inconspicuous.)
B: Good (e.g.: pores and wrinkles virtually inconspicuous.)
C: Poor (e.g.: pores inconspicuous but with some noticeable wrinkles remaining.)
D: Very poor (e.g.: some noticeable pores and wrinkles remained.)
(2) Coverage effect
A: Very good (e.g.: complete covering of redness or blemishes).
B: Good (e.g.: almost complete covering of redness or blemishes).
C: Poor (e.g.: covering of redness but visible blemishes.)
D: Very poor (e.g.: visible redness and blemishes.)
(3) Long-lasting effect
A: Very good (e.g.: no breakup of cosmetic even after 8 hours.)
B: Good (e.g.: no breakup of cosmetic even after 4 hours, but slight breakup of cosmetic after 8 hours.)
C: Poor (e.g.: Slight breakup of cosmetic after 4 hours.)
D: Very poor (e.g.: significant breakup of cosmetic after 4 hours.)
(4) Comfortable finish
A: Very good (e.g.: very strong fresh sensation, absolutely no stickiness felt.)
B: Good (e.g.: strong fresh sensation, virtually no stickiness felt.)
C: Poor (e.g.: no fresh sensation, stickiness also felt.)
D: Very poor (e.g.: no fresh sensation, considerable stickiness felt.)
The results are summarized in Tables 4 and 5 below.
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000006
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000007
The results show that the use of a treated porous silica of this invention gives to the cosmetic compositions of examples 1-3 improved properties, compared to the comparative compositions.
Matte stick lipstick
(Component) (mass%)
1. Sunflower wax 4
2. Candelilla wax 3
3. Carnauba wax 2
4. Rice wax 2
5. Beeswax 0.5
6. Squalane 10
7. C9-12 alkane 5
8. Isododecane 5
9. Polyglyceryl-2 monoisostearate (HLB = 5.5) 3
10. Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinolate (HLB = 3) 3
11. Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate To 100
12. Diisostearyl malate 10
13. Gyceryl tri(caprylate/caprate) 10
14. D&C RED 7 1
15. D&C RED 6 1
16. NAI Surface-treated pigment-grade titanium oxide 1
17. NAI Surface-treated red iron oxide 1
18. NAI Surface-treated black iron oxide 1
19. 5% Dextrin isostearate surface-treated porous silica 5
Production method
1) Components 1 to 13 were heated to dissolution at 90°C.
2) Components 14 to 19 were added to 1) kept at 90°C and mixed and dispersed with a homogenizer, after which the resulting mixture was poured into a die at 90°C and allowed to stand at room temperature, and then removed from the die to obtain a matte stick lipstick.
The obtained matte stick lipstick was a cosmetic exhibiting an excellent blurring effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable finish as a matte lipstick. The obtained lipstick was also convenient to use since it was in stick form.
Matte liquid lipstick
(Component) (mass%)
1. Sunflower wax 2
2. Candelilla wax 1
3. Carnauba wax 1
4. Disteardimonium hectorite 1
5. Dextrin palmitate 0.5
6. Squalane 5
7. C9-12 alkane 30
8. Isododecane 15
9. Polyglyceryl-2 monoisostearate (HLB = 5.5) 2
10. Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinolate (HLB = 3.5) 2
11. Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate To 100
12. Diisostearyl malate 5
13. Glyceryl tri(caprylate/caprate) 5
14. D&C RED 7 1
15. D&C RED 6 1
16. NAI Surface-treated pigment-grade titanium oxide 1
17. NAI Surface-treated red iron oxide 1
18. NAI Surface-treated black iron oxide 1
19. 5% Dextrin isostearate surface-treated porous silica 10
Production method
1) Components 1 to 13 were heated to dissolution at 90°C.
2) Components 14 to 19 were added to 1) kept at 90°C and mixed and dispersed with a homogenizer while cooling to room temperature, and then packed into an applicator-equipped container to obtain a matte liquid lipstick.
The obtained matte liquid lipstick was a cosmetic exhibiting an excellent blurring effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable finish as a matte lipstick.
Solid oily foundation
(Component) (mass%)
1. Sunflower wax 5
2. Candelilla wax 3
3. Carnauba wax 1
4. Rice wax 1
5. Beeswax 0.5
6. Squalane 5
7. C9-12 alkane 15
8. Isododecane 15
9. Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (HLB = 4) 4
10. Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinolate (HLB = 3.5) 4
11. Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate To 100
12. Diisostearyl malate 5
13. Glyceryl tri(caprylate/caprate) 5
14. NAI Surface-treated pigment-grade titanium oxide 8
15. NAI Surface-treated red iron oxide 0.3
16. NAI Surface-treated yellow iron oxide 0.5
17. NAI Surface-treated black iron oxide 0.2
18. 5% Dextrin isostearate surface-treated porous silica 5
Production method
1) Components 1 to 13 were heated to dissolution at 90°C.
2) Components 14 to 18 were added to 1) kept at 90°C, mixed and dispersed with a homogenizer and directly packed into a molding container and cooled to room temperature, to obtain a solid oily foundation.
The obtained solid oily foundation was a cosmetic exhibiting an excellent blurring effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable finish as a matte lipstick. The obtained foundation was also convenient to use and portable, since it was in solid compact form.
Solid water-in-oil emulsified foundation
(Component) (mass%)
1. Sunflower wax 5
2. Candelilla wax 2
3. Carnauba wax 2
4. Rice wax 0.5
5. Disteardimonium hectorite 0.5
6. Squalane 5
7. C9-12 alkane 15
8. Isododecane 15
9. Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (HLB = 4) 4
10. Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinolate (HLB = 3.5) 4
11. Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate 1
12. Diisostearyl malate 5
13. Glyceryl tri(caprylate/caprate) 5
14. NAI Surface-treated pigment-grade titanium oxide 8
15. NAI Surface-treated red iron oxide 0.3
16. NAI Surface-treated yellow iron oxide 0.5
17. NAI Surface-treated black iron oxide 0.2
18. 5% Dextrin isostearate surface-treated porous silica 5
19. Purified water to 100
20. 1,3-Butylene glycol 1
21. Pentylene glycol 1
22. Propanediol 2
23. Glycerin 2
Production method
1) Components 1 to 13 were heated to dissolution at 90°C.
2) Components 14 to 18 were added to 1) kept at 90°C, and mixed and dispersed with a homogenizer.
3) Components 19 to 23 heated to 80°C were loaded into 2) kept at 90°C, and the mixture was emulsified.
4) The uniform mixture 3) was packed into a compact molding container at 90°C and cooled to room temperature to obtain a solid water-in-oil emulsified foundation.
The obtained solid water-in-oil emulsified foundation was a cosmetic exhibiting an excellent blurring effect, long-lasting effect and comfortable finish. The obtained foundation was also convenient to use and portable, since it was in a form of solid compact.

Claims (20)

  1. A cosmetic composition comprising (A) a porous silica treated with a dextrin fatty acid ester, (B) a volatile hydrocarbon oil, (C) a hydrophobically treated coloring pigment and (D) a surfactant.
  2. The composition according to claim 1,
    wherein the dextrin fatty acid ester is an ester of a dextrin and a branched fatty acid.
  3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2,
    wherein the fatty acid has from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3,
    wherein the fatty acid is at least one selected from the group consisting of isopalmitic acid, isostearic acid, isoarachic acid and 18-methyleicosanoic acid.
  5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4,
    wherein the dextrin esterified with a fatty acid is a dextrin isostearate.
  6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5,
    wherein the particle size of the porous silica is 1 to 20 μm.
  7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6,
    wherein the specific surface area of the porous silica is 100 to 1000 m2/g.
  8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7,
    wherein the porous volume per unit mass of the porous silica is 0.5 to 5 ml/g.
  9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8,
    wherein the porous size of the porous silica is 1 to 100 nm.
  10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9,
    wherein the oil absorption of the porous silica is 50 to 500 ml/100 g.
  11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10,
    wherein the content of component (A) is 1 to 25%, preferably 1 to 20 %, by mass based on the total mass of the composition.
  12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11,
    wherein component (B) comprises a volatile linear hydrocarbon having 9 to 15 carbon atoms.
  13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12,
    wherein the particle size of the coloring pigment is less than 1 μm.
  14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13,
    wherein component (D) comprises a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 6 or less.
  15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14,
    wherein the composition further comprises at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of water and alcohol.
  16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15,
    wherein the content of component (B) is 1 to 80%, preferably 1 to 70%, by mass based on the total mass of the composition.
  17. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein the component (A) comprises a dextrin isostearate treated porous silica, the component (B) comprises C9-C12 alkane, the component (C) comprises a pigmentary iron oxide treated by isopropyltitanium triisostearate, Na lauroyl aspartate and zinc chloride, and a titanium dioxide treated by isopropyltitanium triisostearate, Na lauroyl aspartate and zinc chloride, and the component (D) comprises polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, sorbitan sesquioleate and polyhydroxystearic acid.
  18. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 1 to 25% of the component (A), 1 to 80% of the component (B), 1 to 40% of the component (C), and 1 to 25 % of the component (D), based on the total amount of the composition.
  19. A cosmetic process for caring for and/or making-up keratinic materials,
    wherein the cosmetic process comprises the application onto keratinic materials, in particular onto skin, of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18.
  20. The cosmetic process according to claim 19,
    wherein the composition provides the keratinic materials on which it is applied with a blurring effect, a long-lasting effect and a comfortable finish.
PCT/JP2022/046496 2022-12-16 2022-12-16 A cosmetic composition comprising a porous silica treated with a dextrin fatty acid ester WO2024127665A1 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2003137760A (en) * 2001-10-29 2003-05-14 Asahi Glass Co Ltd Skin cosmetic
JP2011213662A (en) 2010-03-31 2011-10-27 Kose Corp New surface-treated powdery material with dextrin fatty acid ester, and use of the same
FR2992213A1 (en) * 2012-06-21 2013-12-27 Oreal Cosmetic composition comprises pulverulent coloring materials, 0.1 wt.% of hydrophobic aerogel silica particles, and a vinyl polymer having unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer
US20160101033A1 (en) * 2014-10-14 2016-04-14 Elc Management Llc Oil-Controlling Cosmetic Powder
JP2021107372A (en) 2019-12-27 2021-07-29 株式会社 資生堂 Oily composition

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2003137760A (en) * 2001-10-29 2003-05-14 Asahi Glass Co Ltd Skin cosmetic
JP2011213662A (en) 2010-03-31 2011-10-27 Kose Corp New surface-treated powdery material with dextrin fatty acid ester, and use of the same
FR2992213A1 (en) * 2012-06-21 2013-12-27 Oreal Cosmetic composition comprises pulverulent coloring materials, 0.1 wt.% of hydrophobic aerogel silica particles, and a vinyl polymer having unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer
US20160101033A1 (en) * 2014-10-14 2016-04-14 Elc Management Llc Oil-Controlling Cosmetic Powder
JP2021107372A (en) 2019-12-27 2021-07-29 株式会社 資生堂 Oily composition

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 15 August 2018 (2018-08-15), ANONYMOUS: "Foundation Essence SPF 50+", XP055554388, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/5882697/ Database accession no. 5882697 *

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