WO2023050168A1

WO2023050168A1 - Retardant composition and dye kit comprising thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2023050168A1
Application number: PCT/CN2021/121749
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yanan WU
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2021-09-29
Filing date: 2021-09-29
Publication date: 2023-04-06
Also published as: FR3128376B1; CN118103023A; FR3128376A1

Abstract

A retardant composition of slowing down reactions of dye or intermediates thereof during dyeing, comprises at least two retardants of a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer; preferably, the retardant composition is substantially consisted of, or even consisted of a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer.

Description

[Title established by the ISA under Rule 37.2] RETARDANT COMPOSITION AND DYE KIT COMPRISING THEREOF

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a retardant composition and a dye kit comprising the same, for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, e.g. hair.

BACKGROUND

Many people have for a long time sought to modify the color of their hair, and especially to dye it in order, for example, to mask their grey hair.

"Permanent" dyeing methods also known as oxidative dyeing, which use colorant compositions containing oxidative dye precursors, generally referred to as oxidation bases, such as ortho-or para-phenylenediamines, ortho-or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds, have been developed for dyeing human keratin fibers in a long-lasting manner. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, may give rise to colored compounds via a process of oxidative condensation.

For better use, one or more oxidative dye (s) and one or more oxidant (s) may be placed respectively in a multi-compartment package, and are mixed together immediately before use.

Consumers desire using dyes for dyeing only the target area. However, in many cases, e.g., when dyeing hair, some other areas may be undesiredly dyed (stained) , such as hand, face, ear and the like. Consumers have to pay more attention to avoid the undesired areas, and have been seeking for products help them to remedy the undesired dyeing.

In addition to the clean dyeing, a good color effect is also always attempted, e.g. a dyeing effect that makes keratin fibers smooth, glossy and shiny, and especially an effect of copper reflect.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In one aspect, the present invention relates to a retardant composition of slowing down reactions of dye or intermediates thereof during dyeing, comprising at least two retardants of a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer. As an example, the retardant composition is substantially consisted of, and preferably consisted of a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer as the retardants.

In another aspect, the present invention relates to a dye kit, comprising: a colorant composition, comprising the above retardant composition; and a developer composition comprising at least one oxidant. By means of the retardant composition, the dye kit can bring low color stain and clean rinsing performance, in order to overcome the above drawbacks, especially reducing or even substantially avoiding of stain by dye to a non-target position.

In one embodiment, in the colorant composition, the ratio of the pyrazolone derivative to the AMPS polymer by weight ranges from about 1∶5 to about 5∶1 and preferably from about 1∶2 to about 2∶1, in order to further improve the effect of reducing stain by dye, and even exhibit a synergistic effect.

In still another aspect, the present invention relates to a dye kit, comprising: a colorant composition, which further comprises at least one oxidative dye comprising an aminophenol derivative in addition to the above retardant composition; and a developer composition comprising at least one oxidant. By means of the aminophenol derivative, in association with the above retardant composition, the dye kit can achieve a better dyeing effect, i.e. copper effect.

In one embodiment, the aminophenol derivative has a pKa ranging from about 9.0 to about 11.0, preferably from about 9.2 to about 10.2, or from about 9.5 to about 10.0, at a temperature of about 25 ℃.

In another embodiment, the aminophenol derivative is a 4-aminophenol derivative, and preferably a 4-aminophenol which is further substituted, preferably 3-substituted, on the phenyl ring. Preferably, any 4-aminophenol (s) comprised in the colorant composition are further substituted, especially 3-substituted, on the phenyl group; and/or preferably, the amino group of the aminophenol derivative is unsubstituted.

As an example, the aminophenol derivative satisfies the above pKa range and the above structure simultaneously.

In a further aspect, the present invention relates to a method for improving the color effect obtained after dyeing keratin fibers, especially hair, by means of the use of the above dye kit. Specifically, the method comprises i) mixing the colorant composition and the developer composition, comprised in the above dye kit, and ii) applying the mixture to keratin fibers. When the colorant composition comprises an aminophenol derivative of the present invention, a relatively lower pH is achieved after mixing the colorant composition and the developer composition. This relatively lower pH value contributes to an effect of copper reflect obtained after dyeing the keratin fibers.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

Fig. 1 is a picture of the lock of hair during dyeing with the sample according to the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a picture of the lock of hair during dyeing with the sample not according to the present invention;

Fig. 3 is a picture of the lock of hair obtained after dyeing using the sample according to the present invention; and

Fig. 4 is a picture of the lock of hair obtained after dyeing using the sample not according to the present invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

The articles "a" and "an" , as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limit is specifically stated. Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Throughout the description, including the claims, an embodiment defined with “comprising” or the like should be understood to encompass a preferable embodiment defined with “consisting substantially of” and a preferable embodiment defined with “consisting of” .

Throughout the description, including the claims, the “keratin fiber” according to the present invention is the hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, or bodily hair. Preferably, the keratin fiber according to the present invention is hair.

In the application, unless specifically mentioned otherwise, contents, parts and percentages are expressed on a weight basis.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the term “retardant” means an agent capable of slowing down reactions of dye or intermediates thereof, such as the reactions with developer, e.g., an oxidation reaction therebetween.

According to the present invention, “reducing the stain” refers to the reduction of stain occurring in undesired areas, such as hands, face, scalp, ears, rinsing water, towels, containers, tools, floor, and the like. Preferably, the effect lasts at least 5 minutes after the dyeing of the hair, more particularly 10 minutes, even more preferably 15 minutes, or 20 minutes.

The term "copper reflect" means an excellent and favorable color effect after dyeing the keratin fiber, especially the hair, and it means a copper-like color and is glossy and shiny.

Colorant composition

The dye kit according to the present invention may comprise a colorant composition. The colorant composition may comprise a retardant composition comprising at least two retardants, wherein the retardant composition may comprise a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer.

Retardant composition

The retardant composition according to the present invention is a composition comprising at least two retardants, and simultaneously comprising a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer. In the context, the term "retardant composition" means a composition comprising at least two retardants and may further comprise other components which do not serve as the retardant in the colorant composition; preferably, the term "retardant composition" means a composition each component of which serves as a retardant in the colorant composition.

For the present invention, the retardant composition may be substantially consisted of, and preferably consisted of a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer. In this case, the term "retardant composition" may also be referred to as "retardant combination" .

As an example, in the retardant composition according to the present invention, the ratio of the pyrazolone derivative to the AMPS polymer by weight ranges from about 1∶5 to about 5∶1 and preferably from about 1∶2 to about 2∶1. This specific ratio may contribute to improving the effect of reducing stain by dye, and even exhibit a synergistic effect for the retardant composition comprising a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer.

This "synergistic effect" means the retardant composition comprising a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer brings a better effect of low color stain and clean rinsing performance than a simple addition of the effects obtained from a single pyrazolone derivative and from a single AMPS polymer.

For example, during dyeing, "retardant composition" renders the stain occurring in undesired areas, such as hands, face, scalp, ears, rinsing water, towels, containers, tools, floor, and the like, to be avoided or at least reduced, and preferably, it brings a synergistic reducing or avoiding effect. Preferably, the effect lasts at least 5 minutes after the dyeing of the hair, more particularly 10 minutes, even more preferably 15 minutes, or 20 minutes.

Further, the retardant composition comprising a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer shows excellent stability, e.g., minimized loss of amount of the subject component (s) over time.

Pyrazolone derivative

The pyrazolone derivatives that may particularly be mentioned include a pyrazolone substituted with at least one aryl and/or at least one alkyl, provided that the number of substituents aryl and alkyl is not more than 3; and diamino-N, N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones.

For the pyrazolone substituted with at least one aryl and/or at least one alkyl, said alkyl is preferably a C ₁-C ₄ alkyl, and the aryl is preferably an unsubstituted phenyl or a phenyl substituted with at least one alkyl, preferably C ₁-C ₄ alkyl. For example, the pyrazolone derivative can be a pyrazolone substituted with at least one phenyl and at least one C ₁-C ₄ alkyl, e.g., pyrazolone substituted with 1 phenyl and 1 methyl, pyrazolone substituted with 1 phenyl and 1 ethyl, and the like. Amongst others, mention may made to phenyl methyl pyrazolone, e.g., 3-methyl-1-phenyl-5-pyrazolone.

For the diamino-N, N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones, the preferable examples that may particularly be mentioned are 2, 3 -diamino-6, 7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1, 2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3 -ethylamino-6, 7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1, 2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3 -isopropylamino-6, 7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1, 2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3 - (pyrrolidin-1-yl) -6, 7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1, 2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-6, 7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1, 2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6, 7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1, 2-a] pyrazol-1-one, and 2, 3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6, 7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1, 2-a] pyrazol-1-one.

The pyrazolone derivative may be advantageously present in amounts ranging from about 0.0001%to about 5%by weight, preferably from about 0.005%to about 2.5%by weight, or from about 0.1%to about 2.5%by weight relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.

AMPS polymer

The colorant composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one AMPS polymer.

The useful AMPS polymers can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least the acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer, optionally in a form partially or totally neutralized with ammonia or with a mineral base other than ammonia, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Representative AMPS polymers are those commercially available from THE LUBRIZOL CORPORATION under the name

AMPS polymers are preferably totally neutralized or virtually totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90%neutralized.

When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization.

Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth) acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth) acrylate, allylic ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allylic or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allylic esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) . The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from about 0.01 mol%to about 10 mol%and more particularly from about 0.2 mol%to about 2 mol%relative to the polymer.

The AMPS polymer in accordance with the invention is preferably water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case they are:

- either "homopolymers" comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above;

- or copolymers obtained from AMPS and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above. When the said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers may not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.

For the purposes of the AMPS polymer according to the present invention, the term "fatty chain" means any hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 7 carbon atoms.

The term "water-soluble or water-dispersible" means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25℃, to a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution that has a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60%and preferably of at least 70%.

The "homopolymers" according to the invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized.

The AMPS homopolymers according to the invention are preferably optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, for instance the poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Clariant under the name Hostacerin

(CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) .

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.

The water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or nonionic.

Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds and the salts thereof:

- (meth) acrylic acid,

- styrenesulfonic acid,

- vinylsulfonic acid and (meth) allylsulfonic acid,

- vinylphosphonic acid,

- maleic acid,

- itaconic acid,

- crotonic acid,

- the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (A) below:

in which:

- R ₁ is chosen from H, -CH ₃, -C ₂H ₅ and -C ₃H ₇

- X ₁ is chosen from:

- alkyl ethers of-OR ₂ type in which R ₂ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonic (-SO ₃-) and/or sulfate (-SO ₄-) and/or phosphate (-PO ₄H ₂-) group.

Among the nonionic water-soluble comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include:

- (meth) acrylamide,

- N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,

- N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,

- maleic anhydride,

- vinylamine,

- N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group containing 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as n-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,

- vinyl alcohol of formula CH ₂=CHOH,

- the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (B) below:

in which:

- R ₁5 is chosen from H, -CH ₃, -C ₂H ₅ and -C ₃H ₇

- X ₂ is chosen from:

- alkyl ethers of-OR ₁₆ type in which R ₁₆ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) ; a hydroxyl group (-OH) ; ether.

Mention is made, for example, of glycidyl (meth) acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and (meth) acrylates of ethylene glycol, of diethylene glycol or of polyalkylene glycol.

Among the fatty-chain-free hydrophobic comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include:

- styrene and its derivatives, such as 4-butylstyrene, α-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene,

- vinyl acetate of formula CH ₂=CH-OCOCH ₃;

- vinyl ethers of formula CH ₂=CHOR in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons;

- acrylonitrile,

- caprolactone,

- vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride,

- silicone derivatives, which lead to silicone polymers after polymerization, such as methacryloxypropyltris (trimethylsiloxy) silane and silicone methacrylamides,

- the hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (C) below:

in which:

- R ₂₃ is chosen from H, -CH ₃, -C ₂H ₅ and -C ₃H ₇

- X ₃ is chosen from:

- alkyl ethers of-OR ₂₄ type in which R ₂₄ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Mention is made, for example, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, hydroxyethyl acrylate, n-butyl (meth) acrylate, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and isobornyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.

The AMPS polymer, preferably water-soluble or water-dispersible, of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g/mol to 10 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 8 000 000 g/mol and even more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 7 000 000 g/mol.

Examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers in accordance with the invention that may be mentioned include crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as the polymer used in the commercial product

800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate) ; or ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate. For example, crosslinked AMPS copolymer is

HMS, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer; non-crosslinked AMPS copolymer is

SNC, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer.

Examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention that may be mentioned include:

- acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate crosslinked copolymers, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product

305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C ₁₃-C ₁₄ Isoparaffin/Laureth-7) or the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the trade name

600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate-80) by the company SEPPIC;

- copolymers of AMPS and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name

AVC by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

- copolymers of AMPS and of sodium acrylate, for instance AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name

EG by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate-80) ;

- copolymers of AMPS and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance AMPS/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name

NS by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) Squalane (and) Polysorbate-60) ;

- ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer.

The preferred polymers are more particularly sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate homopolymers, such as the homopolymer used in the commercial product

800, or ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate; and AMPS/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS, or ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer.

The AMPS polymer may be advantageously present in amounts ranging from about 0.1%to about 10%by weight, preferably from about 0.3%to about 3%by weight, or from about 0.5%to about 2%by weight relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.

Oxidative dye

The colorant composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oxidative dye. Preferably, the oxidative dye may comprise an aminophenol derivative.

In one aspect, the aminophenol derivative needs to satisfy a certain pKa range. By means of this certain pKa range, in association with the above retardant composition comprising a pyrazolone derivative and a AMPS polymer, the colorant composition can bring a better color effect, especially a copper reflect. Specifically, the aminophenol derivative according to the present invention has a pKa ranging from about 9.0 to about 11.0, preferably from about 9.2 to about 10.2, or from about 9.5 to about 10.0, at a temperature of about 25℃.

In another aspect, the aminophenol derivative is a 4-aminophenol derivative, and preferably a 4-aminophenol which is further substituted on the phenyl in addition to the amino group. Specifically, the aminophenol derivative is further substituted on the phenyl ring by a R group selected from alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, and aryl, preferably by a R group selected from alkyl and aryl, or preferably by a R group selected from a C ₁-C ₄ alkyl and phenyl. Preferably, the aminophenol derivative is 3-substituted 4-aminophenol on the phenyl ring by said R group.

Further, the R group can be optionally substituted by a R ¹ group selected from alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, carboxyl, hydroxyl, cyano, acyl, sulfoxide, amino, and amide, preferably by a C ₁-C ₄ alkyl or carboxyl.

Preferably, the amino group of the aminophenol derivative is unsubstituted, and/or preferably, the colorant composition does not comprise a 4-aminophenol which is not further substituted, especially 3-substituted, on the phenyl group.

In one embodiment, the aminophenol derivative according to the present invention needs to satisfy the above pKa value and the above specific structure simultaneously.

Among the aminophenol derivative, examples that may be mentioned include 3-methyl-4-aminophenol, 3-phenyl-4-aminophenol, 3-carboxyl methyl-4-aminophenol, and mixtures thereof.

The aminophenol derivative may be advantageously present in amounts ranging from about 0.0001%to about 5%by weight, preferably from about 0.01%to about 3%by weight, or from about 0.1%to about 2.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.

Conventionally, one or more oxidative dyes are used in the colorant composition. However, some traditional oxidative dyes, e.g. a 4-aminophenol, which is not further substituted on the phenyl group, cannot bring a better or favorable color effect after dyeing. In order to improve the color effect after dyeing, the inventor selects to use the aminophenol derivative which satisfies the above pKa value and/or the above specific structure as one of the oxidative dyes, and surprisingly finds that an excellent and favorable color effect can be achieved, e.g, a copper reflect effect.

Other oxidation base

Additionally, the oxidative dye according to the present invention may comprise one or more other oxidation bases.

Said other oxidation bases may be chosen especially from para-phenylenediamines, bis (phenyl) alkylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, pyridine derivatives, and the addition salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

Among the para-phenylenediamines, examples that may be mentioned include para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methyl-para-phenylenediamine (CI 76042) , 3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2, 3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2, 6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2, 6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2, 5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N, N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N- (β-hydroxypropyl) -para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl-β-hydroxyethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, N- (β, γ-dihydroxypropyl) -para-phenylenediamine, N- (4′-aminophenyl) -para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N- (β-methoxyethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1- (4′-aminophenyl) pyrrolidine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.

Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2, 6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2, 6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2, 3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof with an acid, are particularly preferred.

Among the bis (phenyl) alkylenediamines, examples that may be mentioned include N, N′-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N′-bis (4′-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diaminopropanol, N, N′-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N′-bis (4′-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N′-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N′-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N′-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N′-bis (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N′-bis (ethyl) -N, N′-bis (4′-amino-3′-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, 1, 8-bis (2, 5-diaminophenoxy) -3, 6-dioxaoctane and the addition salts thereof.

Among the meta-aminophenols, examples that may be mentioned include unsubstituted meta-aminophenol or a meta-aminophenol substituted with 1 or 2 C ₁-C ₄ alkyls on the phenyl group or the amino group, said C ₁-C ₄ alkyl is optionally substituted with a group selected from aryl, carboxyl, hydroxyl, cyano, acyl, sulfoxide, amino, and amide. Preferably, the meta-aminophenol is selected from the group consisting of 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, and a mixture thereof.

Among the pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for instance 2, 5-diaminopyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-aminopyridine and 3, 4-diaminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and the addition salts thereof.

Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyridine oxidation bases or the addition salts thereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrid-3 -ylamine, 2- (acetylamino) pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrid-3 -ylamine, 2- (morpholin-4-yl) pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrid-3 -ylamine, (3 -aminopyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrid-7-yl) methanol, 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrid-5-yl) ethanol, 2- (3 -aminopyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrid-7-yl) ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrid-2-yl) methanol, 3, 6-diaminopyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyridine, 3, 4-diaminopyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyridine, pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyridine-3, 7-diamine, 7- (morpholin-4-yl) pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrid-3 -ylamine, pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyridine-3, 5-diamine, 5- (morpholin-4-yl) pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrid-3-ylamine, 2- [ (3 -aminopyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrid-5-yl) (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol, 2- [ (3 -aminopyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrid-7-yl) (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyridin-7-ol and the addition salts thereof.

Said other oxidation bases may be advantageously present in amounts ranging from about 0.0001%to about 10%by weight, preferably from about 0.005%to about 5%by weight, or from about 0.1%to about 3.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.

Reducer

The colorant composition according to the invention may comprise at least one reducer.

According to the present invention, useful reducers can comprise, sodium thiosulfate, sodium metabisulfite, thiourea sulfite ammonium, thioglycolic acid (TGA) , thiolactic acid, ammonium thiolactate, mono-carbothioic acid diglycidyl ester, carbothioic ammonium acetate, thioglycerol, dithio glycolic acid, diammonium carbothioic strontium acetate, thio glycolate, carbothioic isooctyl, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione peptide, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine and its salts; ammonium thioglycolate, glycerol monothioglycolate, or a mixture thereof.

Examples of preferred reducers that may be mentioned include thioglycolic acid, dithio glycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, the salts thereof, sodium metabisulfite, or a mixture thereof.

Antioxidant

The colorant composition according to the invention may comprise at least one antioxidant.

The antioxidants used may include natural exogenous phytochemical antioxidants such as phenols and carotenoids. Vitamins and derivatives can be used, including ascorbic acid, erythorbic acid, or derivatives thereof, e.g., sodium ascorbate/erythorbate and the fat-soluble ester tetrahexyl decyl ascorbate/erythorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, glucosamine ascorbate, ascorbyl acetate, and the like. Sesamum indicum or lignan may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignan significantly enhances vitamin E activity.

Other antioxidants which may be incorporated into the compositions of the present invention include tocopherols (e.g., d-alpha-tocopherol, d-beta-tocopherol, d-gamma-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol) , tocotrienol Phenol (eg d-α-tocotrienol, d-β-tocotrienol, d-γ-tocotrienol, d-δ-tocotrienol) and vitamin E (α-tocopheryl acetate) . These compounds can be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means or mixed. The tocotrienol-rich vitamin E preparation can be obtained by fractionating the vitamin E preparation to remove a portion of the biophenol and recovering the higher concentrated tocotrienol product. Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated, for example, from wheat germ oil, grain or palm oil using high performance liquid chromatography or from barley, distiller′s grains or oats by alcohol extraction and/or molecular distillation. The term "tocotrienol" as used herein includes a tocotrienol-rich fraction obtained from these natural products as well as a pure compound. Increased glutathione peroxidase activity protects the skin from oxidative damage. Said vitamins may also be vitamin cofactor: coenzyme Q10.

In addition, carotenoids, especially lutein types, are also useful antioxidants that can be used. Lutein-type carotenoids include molecules such as lutein, canthaxantin, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin and astaxanthin. Lutein compounds protect compounds such as vitamin A, vitamin E and other carotenoids.

The flavonoid may be a flavanone (a derivative of 2, 3-dihydro-2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one) . Flavanones include: scutellarin, eriodictin, hesperetin, hesperidin, sylvestre, isosakuranetin, naringenin, naringin, pinocin, tangrin (poncirin) ) , sakuranetin, sakura glycosides and 7-O-methyl ergophenol (Sterubin) .

The flavonoid may be a dihydroflavonol (a derivative of 3-hydroxy-2, 3-dihydro-2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one) . Flavanols include: taxifolin, Aromadedrin, Chrysandroside A, Chrysandroside B, Xeractinol, astilbin, and flavonol.

The flavonoid may be a flavonoid (a derivative of 2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one) . Flavonoids include: Apigenin, luteolin, tangeritin, Chrysin, baicalein, wild baicalein, wogonin, synthetic flavonoids: Diosmin and flavonoids ester.

The flavonoid may be a flavonol (a derivative of 3-hydroxy-2-phenylbenzopyran-4-one) . Flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, rhodoxanthin, quercetin, galangin, cotton dermatan, kaempferol, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, mulberry pigment, myricetin, naringin (Natsudaidain) , Muskyl flavonol (Pachypodol) , quercetin, methyl rhamnosin, rhamnetin, azalein, hyperoside, isoquercetin, kaempferol, myricetin, suede Glycosides, Robinin, Rutin, Spiraea, Xanthorhamnin, Amurensin, Icariin and Tracuridine.

The flavonoid may be a flavan-3-ol (a derivative of 2-phenyl-3, 4-dihydro-2H-benzopyran-3-ol) . Flavan-3-ol includes: catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epiafzelechin, Fisetinidol, Guibourtinidol, Mesquitol and Robinetinidol.

The flavonoid may be a flavan-4-ol (a derivative of 2-phenylchroman-4-ol) . Flavan-4-ols include: Apiforol and Luteoforol.

The flavonoid may be an isoflavone (a derivative of 3-phenylbenzopyran-4-one) . Isoflavones include: genistein, daidzein, garbanin A, formononetin, and equol metabolites from daidzein.

The antioxidant may be anthocyanin (a derivative of 2-phenylbenzopyranoside cation) . Anthocyanins include: Aurantinidin, cyanidin, delphinidin, Europinidin, Luteolinidin, Pelargonidin, Malvidin, Peonyidin (Peonidin) , morning glory pigment (Petunidin) , rose pigment (Rosinidin) and xanthone.

The antioxidant may be dihydrochalcone (a derivative of 1, 3-diphenyl-1-propanone) . Dihydrochalcone includes: phloretin, dihydrochalcone phloridin cisplatin, Aspalathin, naringin dihydrochalcone, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone and Nothofagin. The mode of action of the present invention is not limited, but dihydrochalcone can exert an antioxidant effect by reducing active radicals such as active oxygen and reactive nitrogen species.

The antioxidant can be anthocyanin. Anthocyanins and their derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins comprise a class of flavonoid compounds responsible for the red, purple and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, grains and flowers, which are naturally occurring water-soluble compounds. In addition, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. Inhibition of collagenase helps prevent and reduce wrinkles caused by skin collagen reduction, increase skin elasticity, and the like. Anthocyanins can be obtained from any part of a variety of plant sources, such as solids, flowers, stems, leaves, roots, bark or seeds. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that certain portions of the plant may contain higher natural levels of anthocyanins, and thus these moieties are used to obtain the desired anthocyanins. In some cases, the antioxidant can include one or more betaine. Betatin, similar to anthocyanins, is available from natural sources and is an antioxidant.

The antioxidant may be a phenylpropanoid (a derivative of cinnamic acid) . Phenylpropanoids include: cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including its antioxidant pharmacore 2, 6-dihydroxy acetophenome) , 5-hydroxyferic acid, sinapic acid, Coumarin, coniferyl alcohol, sinapyl alcohol, eugenol, Chavicol, baicalein, P-coumaric acid and sinapinic acid. Without limiting the mode of action of the present invention, phenylpropanoids can neutralize free radicals.

The antioxidant may be chalcone (a derivative of 1, 3-diphenyl-2-propen-1-one) . Chalcone includes: zirconia, Okanin, safflower, Marein, Sophoradin, Xanthohumol, Flavokvain A, Flavokavain B, Flavokavin C and Synthetic Safalcone.

The antioxidant may be curcuminoid. Curcuminoids include: curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, bis-demethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrocurcumin, and tetrahydrocurcumin. Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcumin can be derived from the rhizome of turmeric. Tetrahydrocurcumin, a metabolite of curcumin, has been found to be a more potent antioxidant and more stable than curcumin.

The antioxidant can be tannin. Tannins include: tannins, Terflavin B, Glucogallin, Dgallic acid, and Quercitannic acid.

The antioxidant can be a stilbenoid. The mites include: resveratrol, red sandalwood and paclitaxel. Resveratrol can include, but is not limited to, 3, 5, 4′-trihydroxyindole, 3, 4, 3′, 5′-tetrahydroxyindole (cetotriol) , 2, 3′, 4, 5′-Tetrahydroxyindole (oxidized resveratrol) , 4, 4′-dihydroxyindole and its alpha and beta glucoside, galactoside and mannoside derivatives.

The antioxidant may be coumarin (a derivative of 2H-benzopyran-2-one) . Coumarins include: 4-hydroxycoumarin, umbelliferone, Aesculetin, Herniarin, Auraptene, and dicoumarin.

The antioxidant can be a carotenoid. Carotenoids include: beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein and idebenone.

The antioxidant may be: xanthone, butylated hydroxytoluene, 2, 6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2, 4-dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, gallic acid, eugenol, uric acid, α-lipoic acid, ellagic acid, cichoric acid, chlorogenic acid, rosmarinic acid, salicylic acid, acetylcysteine, S-allylcysteine, pyridone (Barbigerone) , Chebulagic acid, edaravone, ethoxyquin, glutathione, hydroxytyrosol, idebenone, melatonin, N-acetyl serotonin, nordihydroguaiac Acid, Oleotanthal, oleuropein, Paradol, paclitaxel, probucol, propyl gallate, protocatechuic acid, pyrithione, rutin, flax lignan diglucoside, sesamin, sesame phenol, Silybin, silymarin, theaflavins, theaflavins digallate, Thmoquinone, Trolox, tyrosol, polyunsaturated fatty acids and sulfur-based antioxidants such as methionine or lipoic acid.

The total weight of the reducer and the antioxidant may be advantageously present in amounts ranging from about 0.001 to about 10%by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 7%by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.

Surfactant

The colorant composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more surfactant (s) , including anionic surfactant, non-ionic surfactant and amphoteric surfactant, and especially non-ionic surfactant and/or amphoteric surfactant.

Non-ionic surfactant

The colorant composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more non-ionic surfactant (s) .

The nonionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the compositions are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie &Son (Glasgow and London) , 1991, pp. 116-178.

Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following nonionic surfactants:

- oxyalkylenated (C ₈-C ₂₄) alkylphenols;

- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C ₈-C ₄₀ alcohols, comprising one or two fatty chains;

- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C ₈-C ₃₀ fatty acid amides;

- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C ₈-C ₃₀ acids and of polyethylene glycols;

- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C ₈-C ₃₀ acids and of glycerol or sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated, e.g. PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-80 Hydrogenated castor oil;

- fatty acid esters of sucrose;

- (C ₈-C ₃₀) alkyl (poly) glucosides, (C ₈-C ₃₀) alkenyl (poly) glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C ₈-C ₃₀) alkyl (poly) glucoside esters; Examples that may be mentioned include caprylyl/capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, and a mixture thereof;

- saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils;

- condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter alia, alone or as mixtures;

- N- (C ₈-C ₃₀) alkylglucamine and N- (C ₈-C ₃₀) acylmethylglucamine derivatives;

- aldobionamides;

- amine oxides;

- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated silicones;

- and mixtures thereof.

The terms "oxyalkylenated" , "oxyethylenated" , "oxypropylenated" and "glycerolated" cover, respectively, mono-or poly-oxyalkylenated, oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated and glycerolated compounds, unless specifically mentioned.

The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

The number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges especially from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.

Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise any oxypropylene units.

As examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants, use is preferably made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈-C ₄₀ alcohols, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.

As examples of compounds of this type, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether) , lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether) , oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether) , cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleyl/cetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C ₈/C ₁₀ alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C ₁₀/C ₁₂ alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C ₁₂ alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.

The nonionic surfactant may be advantageously present in amounts ranging from about 0.01%to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1%to about 8%by weight, or from about 0.5%to about 3%by weight, relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.

Amphoteric surfactant

The colorant composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more amphoteric surfactant (s) .

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is selected from a betaine type surfactant. The amphoteric surfactant (s) of betaine type used in the colorant composition according to the present invention may especially be (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylbetaines, (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylsulphobetaines, (C ₈-C ₂₀alkyl) amido (C ₂-C ₈alkyl) - betaines or (C ₈-C ₂₀alkyl) amido (C ₆-C ₈alkyl) sulphobetaines.

Among the amphoteric surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C ₈-C ₂₀alkyl) betaines and (C ₈-C ₂₀alkyl) amido (C ₈-C ₂₀alkyl) betaines, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are selected from cocobetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, and a mixture thereof.

The amphoteric surfactant may be advantageously present in amounts ranging from about 0.5%to about 20%by weight, preferably from about 2%to about 15%by weight, or from about 5%to about 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.

Anionic surfactant

The colorant composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more anionic surfactant (s) .

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the following groups:

-COOH, -COO ^-, -SO ₃H, -SO ₃ ^-, -OSO ₃H, -OSO ₃ ^-, -PO ₂H ₂, -PO ₂H ^-, -PO ₂ ^2-, -P (OH) ₂, =P (O) OH, -P (OH) O ^-, =P (O) O ^-, =POH, =PO ^-, the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline-earth metal or an ammonium.

As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the colorant composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, polyglycoside polycarboxylic acid and alkyl monoester salts, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C ₆-C ₂₄ alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C ₆-C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C ₆-C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C ₆-C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant (s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol salts and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.

Preferred anionic surfactants are chosen from (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl sulfates, (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl ether sulfates, (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates and monoglyceride sulphates, all these compounds optionally comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and more preferably from (C ₁₂-C ₂₀) alkyl sulphates and (C ₁₂-C ₂₀) alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and even more preferably from 1 to 4 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds. Better still, it is preferred to use a polyoxyethylenated sodium lauryl ether sulphate, such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate containing 2 or 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide.

Preferably, the anionic surfactants of the invention are sulfates, more specifically is chosen from (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl sulfates, (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl ether sulfates, (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates and monoglyceride sulfates, their salts such as alkali salts, such as sodium, and their mixtures.

More preferably, the anionic surfactants of the invention are chosen from (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl sulfates, (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl ether sulfates, particularly (C ₆-C ₃₀) alkyl ether sulfates such as lauryl ether sulfate, their salts, such as sodium laureth sulfate.

The anionic surfactant may be advantageously present in amounts ranging from about 0.01%to about 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.

Alkaline agent

The colorant composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more alkaline agents.

The alkaline agent (s) can especially be chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates, organic amines with a pKb at 25℃ of less than 12, in particular less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6; from the salts of the amines mentioned previously with acids such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid: it should be noted that it is the pKb corresponding to the function of highest basicity.

Preferably, the colorant composition according to the present invention can be free of or substantially free of aqueous ammonia.

Preferably, the amines are chosen from alkanolamines, in particular comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C ₁-C ₈ alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals; from oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, and from amino acids and compounds having the following formula:

in which W is a C ₁-C ₆ alkylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C ₁-C ₆ alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C ₁-C ₆ alkyl, C ₁-C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or C ₁-C ₆ aminoalkyl radical.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the colorant composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkanolamine and/or at least one basic amino acid, more advantageously at least one alkanolamine, such as ethanolamine, or mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the content of alkaline agent (s) ranges from about 0.01%to about 30%by weight, preferably from about 0.1%to about 20%by weight, or from about 1%to about 10%by weight relative to the total weight of the colorant composition. It should be noted that this content is expressed as NH ₃ when the alkaline agent is aqueous ammonia.

The pH of composition of the invention is preferably about 6-11, preferably about 7-10, and more preferably about 8-9.

The pH can be adjusted by adding acidifying agents, such as hydrochloric acid, (ortho) phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, boric acid, and also carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, lactic acid or citric acid, or sulfonic acids. Alkaline agents such as those previously mentioned may also be used.

Solvent

The colorant composition according to the invention can advantageously comprise one or more solvent (s) , e.g., water and/or organic solvent.

Water

The colorant composition according to the invention may comprise water. In one aspect, the water content in the colorant composition according to the invention is less than or equal to about 40%by weight relative to the total weight of colorant composition.

In another aspect, the water content in the colorant composition according to the invention preferably ranges from about 10%to about 85%by weight, more preferentially from about 25%to about 80%by weight, or from about 40%to about 70%by weight, relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.

Organic solvent

The colorant composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more water-soluble organic solvents (solubility of greater than or equal to 5%in water at 25℃and at atmospheric pressure) .

Examples of water-soluble organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched and preferably saturated monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol) , neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1, 5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as phenylethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially C ₁-C ₄ alkyl ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.

The water-soluble organic solvents, when they are present, generally represent between about 1%and about 20%by weight relative to the total weight of the colorant composition according to the invention, and preferably between about 3%and about 15%by weight, or between about 4%and about 10%by weight.

Fatty phase

The colorant composition according to the invention can comprise, moreover, a cosmetically acceptable fatty substance.

According to one particular embodiment, the fatty substance is free of carboxylic acid group s.

The term “fatty substance” means organic compounds that are insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably 1%and even more preferentially 0.1%) . In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclo-pentasiloxane.

The fatty substances are especially chosen from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils, in particular mineral, plant, animal or synthetic non-silicone oils, non-silicone waxes, and silicones.

It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, the fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is (are) optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4) . If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

As regards lower alkanes, these alkanes comprise from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and are linear or branched, optionally cyclic. By way of example, the alkanes may be chosen from hexane and dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

As non-silicone oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesameseed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names

810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms and of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as

- fluoro oils, for instance perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1, 3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names

PC1 and

PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1, 2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF

and PF

by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name

by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF

by the company 3M.

The fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition of the invention are not oxyalkylenated. They are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol) , octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.

The esters useful are esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₂₆ aliphatic mono-or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₂₆ aliphatic mono-or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C ₁₂-C ₁₅ alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still in the context of this variant, esters of C ₄-C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₁-C ₂₂ alcohols and esters of mono-, di-or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₂-C ₂₆ di-, tri-, tetra-or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

The following may especially be mentioned: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; ethylene glycol distearate; diethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol distearate.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆-C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂-C ₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygenous hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose) , glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆-C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂-C ₂₂ fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri-, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be chosen, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate mixed esters.

It is more particularly preferred to use monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono-or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.

The fatty substance (s) may be advantageously present in amounts ranging from about 0.01%to about 45%by weight, preferably from about 0.1%to about 30%by weight, or from about 1%to about 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.

Adjuvants

The colorant composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic adjuvants.

For example, the composition may comprise one or more additives that are well known in the art, such as agents for preventing hair loss, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, the derivatives of these vitamins (in particular esters) and their mixtures; sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, opacifiers, hydroxy acids, nacreous agents, adhesives dispersing agents, conditioning agents, texture adjustment, fragrances and preserving agents.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound (s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition (s) .

The above adjuvants may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and about 25%by weight, or between 0 and about 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.

Viscosity

The colorant composition according to the invention may be in the form of gel emulsion, thickened liquid or liquid cream. The colorant composition has a low shear viscosity of above about 1000 mpa ·s and a high shear viscosity of less than about 500 mpa ·s.

The low shear viscosity and the high shear viscosity, as defined above, are measured via a TA Instruments AR2000 Rheometer having the following geometry: 50 mm ² stainless steel cone, 50 mm stainless steel plate, Standard Size DIN or Conical Concentric Cylinders. Using the data analysis program of the TA Instruments AR2000 Rheometer, collected data is then graphed and a point at the beginning of the run is recorded as the low-shear viscosity. Data should be run at least twice to ensure correlation of the recorded data. The low shear viscosity is measured at 0.01 s’ and the high shear viscosity is measured at 500 s’.

This specific viscosity can ensure that the resulted colorant composition would not be too thin to drop down during use, and contributes to the stability of the colorant composition.

Developer composition

The dye kit according to the present invention may comprise a developer composition.

Preferably, the developer composition is placed separately from the colorant composition, i.e. they are placed in two separate chambers.

Oxidant

The developer composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one oxidant.

The developer composition of the present invention may comprise one or more oxidant for generally use as one of the active components of the composition. The term "oxidant" is intended to mean an oxidant other than atmospheric oxygen. More particularly, the oxidant is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxy salts, such as persulfates or perborates, peracids and their precursors, and alkali or alkaline earth metals; or a polymer type complex capable of releasing hydrogen peroxide.

Advantageously, the oxidant is hydrogen peroxide.

The oxidant may be advantageously present in amounts ranging from about 0.1%by weight to about 50%by weight, preferably from about 1%by weight to about 20%by weight, or from about 5%by weight to about 15%by weight, based on the weight of the developer composition.

Solvent

The developer composition of the present invention may comprise one or more solvent (s) , e.g., water and/or organic solvent. The useful solvent can be selected from those discussed for the “solvent” of the colorant composition above.

The colorant composition and the developer composition of the dye kit can independently use same or different solvents, respectively.

When water is used as a solvent in the developer composition according to the invention, it is preferably used in a content of ranging from about 40%to about 95%by weight, more preferentially from about 50%to about 90%by weight, or from about 60%to about 85%by weight, relative to the total weight of the developer composition.

Examples of water-soluble organic solvents that may be mentioned include polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol.

The water-soluble organic solvents, when they are present, generally represent between about 0.1%and about 20%by weight, and preferably between about 0.5%and about 15%by weight, or between about 1%and about 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the developer composition.

Surfactant

The developer composition according to the invention may comprise one or more surfactant (s) , e.g., in particular anionic surfactant and/or non-ionic surfactant, preferably non-ionic surfactant. The useful surfactant can be selected from tho se discussed for the “surfactant” of the colorant composition above.

The colorant composition and the developer composition of the dye kit can independently use same or different surfactants, respectively.

AMPS polymer

The developer composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise an AMPS polymer. The useful AMPS polymer and the amount thereof can be selected from those discussed for the “AMPS polymer” of the colorant composition above.

Addition form of AMPS polymers

As stated above, the inventor has surprisingly discovered that the AMPS polymer can be used as a retardant to slow down reactions of dye or intermediates thereof, e.g., the oxidative dye useful in the colorant composition.

That is, the AMPS polymer acts mainly on the reaction of the dye. Accordingly, for the dye kit, the AMPS polymer can be added directly into the dye kit, e.g., as a mixture with the colorant composition and/or with the developer composition; or can be added into an independent chamber separate from the colorant composition and from the developer composition.

For the use as an AMPS polymer independently from the dye kit, any component known in the field of cosmetics benefiting the stability of the AMPS polymer can be comprised together with the AMPS polymer.

Chelating agent

The colorant composition and/or the developer composition of dye kit according to the present invention may comprise at least one chelating agent.

According to the present invention, the useful chelating agent comprises aminocarboxylic acids, e.g., ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) , aminotriacetic acid, diethylene triaminepentaacetic acid, and in particular the alkali metal salt thereof, e.g., N, N-bis (carboxymethyl) glutamic acid, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium salt of N, N-bis (carboxymethyl) glutamic acid (glutamic acid diacetic acid, GLDA) ; hydroxyl carboxylic acids, e.g., citric acid, tartaric acid, glucuronic acid, succinic acid, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) , and in particular the alkali metal salt thereof; hydroxyl aminocarboxylic acids, e.g., hydroxyethylethylenediamine triacetic acid (HEDTA) , dihydroxyethylglycine (DEG) , and in particular the alkali metal salt thereof; polyphosphonic acid, and in particular the alkali metal salt thereof; other phosphor-containing organic acid, e.g., phytic acid, and in particular the alkali metal salt thereof, e.g., sodium phytate, potassium phytate polycarboxylic acid, e.g., polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, and in particular the alkali metal salt thereof.

In one embodiment, the at least one water soluble chelating agent is an alkali metal hydroxyl polycarboxylate represented by an alkane containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably containing 2 or 3 carbon atoms, substituted by 1, 2, or 3 hydroxyl groups (-OH) , preferably by one (1) hydroxyl group, and further substituted by 2, 3, 4 or 5 carboxylate groups (-COOM) , preferably by 2 or 3 carboxylate groups (-COOM) , wherein the multiple groups M independently represent H or alkali metal, with the proviso that at least one of the groups M represents alkali metal, such as Na, K or Li, preferably all groups M represent alkali metal, such as Na, K or Li, preferably Na. More specifically, the at least one alkali metal hydroxyl polycarboxylate may be chosen from sodium tartrates, sodium citrates, potassium tartrates, potassium citrates, and hydrates thereof, preferably sodium citrates, in particularly trisodium citrate. Herein, sodium citrates are used to indicate monosodium citrate, disodium citrate and trisodium citrate, and other alkali metal hydroxyl polycarboxylates may be understood in a similar way.

Amongst others, the alkali metal mentioned above is preferably sodium or potassium, in particular sodium. Accordingly, preferable chelating agents can comprise sodium citrate, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium GLDA, trisodium EDDS, sodium phytate, or a mixture thereof.

In particular, the colorant composition and/or the developer composition of the present invention may comprise the at least one water soluble chelating agent in a content ranging from about 0.01%to about 1%by weight, especially from about 0.1%to about 0.4%by weight, relative to the total weight of the colorant composition or the developer composition.

Process, method and use

In another aspect, the present invention relates to a process for dyeing human keratin fibers, in particular the hair, using the dye kit as described above. By using the retardant composition comprising a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer, as mentioned above, the effects of slowing down reactions of dye or intermediates and reducing the stain of a dye composition can be achieved.

The present invention also relates to the use of a retardant composition comprising a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer for reducing stain of a dye, i.e. reducing the stain in areas other than the keratin fibers.

According to a preferred embodiment, the dyeing process of the invention comprises mixing the colorant composition and the developer composition immediately before use, and applying the mixture obtained as described above to the keratin fibers, in order to slow down the reaction between the components, and thus slow down the dyeing process.

In still another aspect, the present invention relates to a method for improving the color effect obtained after dyeing keratin fibers, especially hair. When the colorant composition comprises the aminophenol derivative of the present invention, a relatively lower pH is achieved after mixing the colorant composition and the developer composition, and the relatively lower pH contributes to an effect of copper reflect obtained after dyeing keratin fibers, wherein the relatively lower pH is lower than 9.5, preferably in the range from about 7 to about 9.2, or in the range from about 7 to about 8.7.

More particularly, by “mixing” or a variant thereof, it is intended to mean the action of putting the colorant composition of the present invention into a container or palm, together with the developer composition as described above, with or without stirring them.

In one embodiment, the colorant composition of the present invention is put into a container or palm together with the developer composition as described above, without stirring them.

The mixture of the colorant composition and the developer composition is usually left in place on the keratin fibers for a time generally ranging from 1 minute to 1 hour and preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.

The temperature during the dyeing process is conventionally between 20 and 80℃and preferably between 20 and 60℃. After the treatment, the human keratin fibers are advantageously rinsed with water. They may optionally be further washed with a shampoo, followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

The process may be repeated several times in order to obtain the desired coloration.

The abovementioned dye kit may also be equipped with means allowing the delivery to the hair of the desired mixture, such as, for example, the device described in patent FR 2 586 913.

The examples that follow are given purely as illustrations of the present invention.

EXAMPLES:

The ingredient amounts/concentrations in the compositions/formulas described below are expressed in %by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula.

Example 1

The colorant composition I-A according the present invention and the colorant composition I-B not according to the present invention hereinafter were prepared, substantially from the main ingredients indicated on Table 1 below (in which the contents were indicated in wt%of materials with regard to the total weight of the colorant composition) :

Table 1

INGREDIENTS	I-A	I-B
GLYCERIN	5	5
COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE	1.9	1.9
COCO BETAINE	5.42	5.42
CAPRYLYL/CAPRYL GLUCOSIDE	0.3	0.3
PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL	2	2
EDTA	0.15	0.15
AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE	0.5
THIOGLYCOLIC ACID	0.5	0.5
SODIUM METABISULFITE	1	1
ERYTHORBIC ACID	2	2
p-PHENYLENEDIAMINE	1.77	1.77
m-AMINOPHENOL	0.207	0.207
2-METHYL-5-HYDROXYETHYLAMINOPHENOL	0.142	0.142
4-AMINO-2-HYDROXYTOLUENE	0.06	0.06
2-AMINO-3-HYDROXYPYRIDINE	0.288	0.288
p-AMINOPHENOL (AND) SODIUM METABISULFITE		0.459
4-AMINO-M-CRESOL	0.523
PHENYL METHYL PYRAZOLONE	0.5
WATER	QS	QS

The developer composition II-A according the present invention and the developer composition II-B not according to the present invention hereinafter were prepared, substantially from the main ingredients indicated on Table 2 below (in which the contents were indicated in wt%of materials with regard to the total weight of the composition) :

Table 2

Stability Test

Stability property was evaluated using the above colorant compositions I-A and I-B, according to a viscosity test method (CID-012-02, ‘CONTRAVES’ VISCOSITY DETERMINATION, in a unit of UD) , and the process comprised the following steps:

1) preparing the colorant compositions at room temperature,

2) keeping the samples of the colorant compositions at 45℃ for 2 months,

3) observing the appearance of the samples, and

4) analyzing the concentration of the specific retardant composition in the samples. The resulted viscosity and corresponding stability were shown on the following Table 3.

Table 3

Properties	I-A	I-B
Viscosity (UD)	37.5	36.7
Stabilitv	OK	OK

During this process, the colorant composition I-A was still shown as gel emulsion and no color change, and the concentration of the specific retardant composition was over 50%relative to the original concentration thereof. The data on Table 3 demonstrated that the colorant composition I-A comprising the retardant composition of the present invention showed a desirable stability.

Test of clean dyeing

The sample of Example 1 was prepared by mixing the colorant composition I-A and the developer composition II-A, and the sample of Comparative Example 1 was prepared by mixing the colorant composition I-B and the developer composition II-B. During the processes, each sample achieved a pH of about 8.7 or even lower. Then, the sample of Example 1 and the sample of Comparative Example 1 were applied on two locks of hair, respectively.

Figs. 1 and 2 were obtained from the sample of Example 1 and the sample of Comparative Example 1, respectively, during dyeing. By contrast, it could be seen that, during dyeing, there was no apparent color change for the dye from the sample of Example 1 comprising the specific retardant composition of the present invention, while the color of the dye from the sample of Comparative Example 1 went dark and black over time. Further, the sample of Comparative Example 1 polluted some non-target positions, e.g. the container and/or tool for dyeing, while the sample of Example 1 kept the non-target positions clean, and thus reduced or even avoided the stain on non-target positions.

Test of copper reflect effect

After applying the sample of Example 1 and the sample of Comparative Example 1 on the locks of hair, the hair was massaged around 1 minute and then put onto a hot plate at a constant temperature of 27℃. After 30 minutes, the hair was rinsed with water. Optionally, the hair was further washed with shampoo and dried using ordinary methods in the art.

Figs. 3 and 4 were obtained from the sample of Example 1 and the sample of Comparative Example 1, respectively. By contrast, it could be seen that the lock of hair dyed with the sample of Example 1 had a copper-like color and was glossy and shiny, i.e. obtained a copper reflect, while the lock of hair dyed with the sample of Comparative Example 1 had a mahogany color, and is dim and not glossy.

Claims

A retardant composition of slowing down reactions of dye or intermediates thereof during dyeing, comprisingat least two retardants of a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer; preferably, the retardant composition is substantially consisted of, or even consisted of a pyrazolone derivative and an AMPS polymer.
The retardant composition according to claim 1, wherein the pyrazolone derivative is selected from the group consisting of phenyl methyl pyrazolone, especially, 3-methyl-1-phenyl-5-pyrazolone; diamino-N, N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones; and mixtures thereof.
The retardant composition according to claims 1 or 2, wherein the AMPS polymer is crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least the acrylamido-2 methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer; preferably, the AMPS polymer is selected from the group consisting of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate homopolymer, or ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate homopolymer, AMPS/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, or ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.
The retardant composition according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein the ratio of the pyrazolone derivative to the AMPS polymer by weight ranges from about 1∶5 to about 5∶1 and preferably from about 1∶2 to about 2∶1.
A dye kit, comprising:

(I) a colorant composition, comprising:

i) the retardant composition according to any one of claims 1-4, and

ii) at least one oxidative dye, comprising an aminophenol derivative; and

(II) a developer composition, comprising:

iii) at least one oxidant.
The dye kit according to claim 5, wherein the aminophenol derivative has a pKa ranging from about 9.0 to about 11.0, preferably from about 9.2 to about 10.2, or from about 9.5 to about 10.0, at a temperature of about 25 ℃.
The dye kit according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the aminophenol derivative is a 4-aminophenol derivative, and preferably a 4-aminophenol which is further substituted, preferably 3-substituted, on the phenyl ring by a R group selected from alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, and aryl, preferably by a R group selected from alkyl and aryl, or preferably by a R group selected from a C ₁-C ₄ alkyl and phenyl; and

the R group is optionally substituted by a R ¹ group selected from alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, carboxyl, hydroxyl, cyano, acyl, sulfoxide, amino, and amide, preferably by a C ₁-C ₄ alkyl or carboxyl;

preferably, the amino group of the aminophenol derivative is unsubstituted.
The dye kit according to any one of claims 5-7, wherein the aminophenol derivative is selected from the group consisting of 3-methyl-4-aminophenol, 3-phenyl-4-aminophenol, 3-carboxyl methyl-4-aminophenol, and mixtures thereof.
The dye kit according to any one of claims 5-8, wherein the aminophenol derivative is present in amounts ranging from about 0.0001%to about 5%by weight, preferably from about 0.01%to about 3%by weight, or from about 0.1%to about 2.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.
The retardant composition according to any one of claim 5-9, wherein the pyrazolone derivative is present in amounts ranging from about 0.0001%to about 5%by weight, preferably from about 0.005%to about 2.5%by weight, or from about 0.1%to about 2.5%by weight relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.
The retardant composition according to any one of claims 5-10, wherein the AMPS polymer is present in amounts ranging from about 0.1%to about 10%by weight, preferably from about 0.3%to about 3%by weight, or from about 0.5%to about 2%by weight relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.
The dye kit according to any one of claims 5-11, wherein the colorant composition has a low shear viscosity of above about 1000 mPa·s, and a high shear viscosity of less than about 500 mPa·s, in the form of gel emulsion, thickened liquid or liquid cream.
The dye kit according to any one of claims 5-12, wherein the colorant composition further comprises an oxidation base in addition to the aminophenol derivative, and the oxidation base is selected from the group consisting of para-phenylenediamines, bis (phenyl) alkylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, pyridine derivatives, and mixtures thereof, and the oxidation base is present in amounts ranging from about 0.0001%to about 10%by weight, preferably from about 0.005%to about 5%by weight, or from about 0.1%to about 3.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.
The dye kit according to any one of claims 5-13, wherein the colorant composition further comprises a reducer and/or an antioxidant, wherein the reducer is selected from the group consisting of sodium thiosulfate, sodium metabisulfite, thioglycolic acid (TGA) , thiolactic acid, ammonium thiolactate, dithio glycolic acid, thio glycolate, ammonium thioglycolate, glycerol monothioglycolate, or mixtures thereof, and the antioxidant is selected from the group consisting of vitamins and derivatives thereof, tocopherol and derivatives thereof, a carotenoid, a flavonoid, an anthocyanin, a dihydrochalcone, a phenylpropanoid, a chalcone, a curcuminoid, a tannin, a stilbenoid, a coumarin, or mixtures thereof, and

the total weight of the reducer and the antioxidant is present in amounts ranging from about 0.001 to about 10%by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 7%by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.
The dye kit according to any one of claims 5-14, wherein the colorant composition further comprises a surfactant selected from the group consisting of a nonionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, or a mixture thereof, wherein the nonionic surfactant is present in amounts ranging from about 0.01%to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1%to about 8%by weight, or from about 0.5%to about 3%by weight, relative to the total weight of the colorant composition, and the amphoteric surfactant is present in amounts ranging from about 0.5%to about 20%by weight, preferably from about 2%to about 15%by weight, or from about 5%to about 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the colorant composition.
A method for improving the color effect obtained after dyeing keratin fibers, e.g. hair, especially for achieving a copper reflect effect, comprising

i) mixing the colorant composition and developer composition comprised in the dye kit according to any one of claims 5-15, and

ii) applying the mixture obtained from i) to keratin fibers,

wherein a relatively lower pH is achieved after mixing the colorant composition and the developer composition, and said relatively lower pH means a pH value of lower than 9.5, preferably in the range from about 7 to about 9.2, or in the range from about 7 to about 8.7.