WO2022178848A1

WO2022178848A1 - Composition for improving surfactant

Info

Publication number: WO2022178848A1
Application number: PCT/CN2021/078213
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yu Huang; Lingling Sun
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2021-02-26
Filing date: 2021-02-26
Publication date: 2022-09-01
Also published as: CN116940321A; FR3120195B1; FR3120195A1

Abstract

An aqueous composition for improving surfactant comprises the components of: A) at least one hydrophobic AMPS copolymer; B) at least one conventionally irritative surfactant, having an EpiSkin cell viability of equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85%; and C) solvent/medium.

Description

Composition for improving surfactant

Technical field

The present invention relates to a composition for improving surfactant.

Background

Skin is present widely on surface of human bodies. Many people have for a long time sought to fresh the body surface, so as to feel comfortable in daily life and work. It has always been an ultimate target of the cosmetic filed to deliver products with skin benefits such as hydration, moisturizing, anti-aging, whitening, cleansing, slippery feeling and so on.

It is known that keratin materials such as the skin suffer from aging due to various factors; and accordingly, the effect of anti-aging can be achieved through various routes. For example, stratum corneum (SC) is the outermost layer of epidermis. Facilitating the turnover of SC can make the skin more smooth and bright, and the fine line or wrinkle on skin will be less noticeable.

Amongst others, a skin care product is often provided as a leave-on form, which means successive and long-term contact of the product with skin. On the other hand, for various purposes, one or more surfactants are added into the skin care products, especially for the leave-on products. It is however known that various surfactants may cause irritation to skin.

There is thus still needed in the art to develop new compositions for improving surfactant.

Summary of the invention

By deep study, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that by using specifically combination of at least one specific polymer, especially at least one hydrophobic modified ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate acid or salt, with a conventionally irritative surfactant, the irritation result will be quite inhibited.

Thus, one subject of the present invention is thus a composition for improving surfactant, comprising:

at least one hydrophobic AMPS copolymer;

at least one conventionally irritative surfactant, having an EpiSkin cell viability of equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85%; and

solvent/medium.

The composition according to the present invention is particularly useful for improving surfactant, in particular in a skin care product, e.g., a product for the stratum corneum. Accordingly, the composition of the present invention can be particularly a leave-on product in various form, in particular solution, such as lotion, spray and the like to be applied to directly to skin.

Embodiments of the invention

Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one" , unless otherwise mentioned. Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Throughout the description, including the claims, an embodiment defined with “comprising” or the like should be understood to encompass a preferable embodiment defined with “consisting substantially of” and a preferable embodiment defined with “consisting of” .

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of components and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about" , with conventionally known meaning in the art, e.g., within 10%of the indicated number (e.g. "about 10%" means 9%-11%and "about 2%" means 1.8%-2.2%) .

In the application, unless specifically mentioned otherwise, contents, parts and percentages are expressed on a weight basis.

The present invention is directed to an aqueous composition for improving surfactant, comprising the components of:

A) at least one hydrophobic AMPS copolymer;

B) at least one conventionally irritative surfactant; and

C) solvent/medium.

The present invention thus provides use of combination of at least one hydrophobic AMPS copolymer of component A) and at least one conventionally irritative surfactant of component B) for enhancing the performance of a skin care product while avoiding or reducing the irritation suffered by skin, especially that caused by the conventionally irritative surfactant.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

Component A) , hydrophobic AMPS copolymer

The composition according to the present invention may comprise a hydrophobic AMPS copolymer.

The useful hydrophobic AMPS copolymers can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers comprising at least the acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer, optionally in a form partially or totally neutralized with ammonia or with a mineral base other than ammonia, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Representative AMPS polymers are those commercially available from THE LUBRIZOL CORPORATION under the name

The hydrophobic AMPS copolymers are preferably totally neutralized or virtually totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90%neutralized.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophobic AMPS copolymers are preferably crosslinked.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophobic AMPS copolymers are preferably in a form partially or totally neutralized with ammonia.

Thus, according to an embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophobic AMPS copolymers are preferably copolymers of hydrophobically modified ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate acid or salt.

When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization.

Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene; ethers, such as diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allylic ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allylic or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, hydroquinone diallyl ether; esters, such as, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, also allylic esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, and especially (meth) acrylate of fatty acids, such as ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, allyl (meth) acrylate; amides, such as methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, tetraallylethylenediamine, and or mixtures of these compounds.

The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol%to 10 mol%and more particularly from 0.2 mol%to 2 mol%relative to the polymer.

The AMPS polymer in accordance with the invention is preferably water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case they are preferably:

- copolymers obtained from AMPS and from one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above.

The term "water-soluble or water-dispersible" means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25℃, to a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution that has a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60%and preferably of at least 70%.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.

The water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or nonionic.

Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds and the salts thereof:

- (meth) acrylic acid,

- styrenesulfonic acid,

- vinylsulfonic acid and (meth) allylsulfonic acid,

- vinylphosphonic acid,

- maleic acid,

- itaconic acid,

- crotonic acid,

- the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (A) below:

in which:

- R ₁ is chosen from H, -CH ₃, -C ₂H ₅ and-C ₃H ₇

- X ₁ is chosen from:

- alkyl ethers of -OR ₂ type in which R ₂ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonic (-SO ₃-) and/or sulfate (-SO ₄-) and/or phosphate (-PO ₄H ₂-) group.

Among the nonionic water-soluble comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include:

- (meth) acrylamide,

- N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,

- N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,

- maleic anhydride,

- vinylamine,

- N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group containing 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as n-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,

- vinyl alcohol of formula CH ₂=CHOH,

- the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (B) below:

in which:

- R ₁₅ is chosen from H, -CH ₃, -C ₂H ₅ and-C ₃H ₇

- X ₂ is chosen from:

- alkyl ethers of -OR ₁₆ type in which R ₁₆ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) ; a hydroxyl group (-OH) ; ether.

Mention is made, for example, of glycidyl (meth) acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and (meth) acrylates of ethylene glycol, of diethylene glycol or of polyalkylene glycol.

Mention is made, for example, of methyl (meth) acrylate, ethyl (meth) acrylate, hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate, n-butyl (meth) acrylate, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate, cyclohexyl (meth) acrylate, isobornyl (meth) acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth) acrylate.

The AMPS polymer, preferably water-soluble or water-dispersible, of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g/mol to 10 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 8 000 000 g/mol or from 100 000 g/mol to 7 000 000 g/mol.

For example, crosslinked AMPS copolymer is

HMS, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer; non-crosslinked AMPS copolymer is

SNC, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer.

Examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention that may be mentioned include:

- acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate crosslinked copolymers, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product

305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C ₁₃-C ₁₄ Isoparaffin/Laureth-7) or the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the trade name

600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate-80) by the company SEPPIC;

- copolymers of AMPS and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name

AVC by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

- copolymers of AMPS and of sodium acrylate, for instance AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name

EG by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate-80) ;

- copolymers of AMPS and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance AMPS/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name

NS by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) Squalane (and) Polysorbate-60) ;

- ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer.

The preferred polymers are more particularly ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate; and AMPS/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS, or ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer.

The component A) of hydrophobic AMPS copolymer in accordance with the invention are generally present in amounts ranging from 0.01%to 10%by weight, preferably 0.1%to 5%by weight, or particularly from 0.3%to 3%by weight, or preferably from 0.5%to 2%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Component B) , conventionally irritative surfactant

Surfactants are generally added into the skin care products. Meanwhile, various surfactants may cause irritation to skin. Amongst others, it is known that cationic surfactant is readily to be irritative.

According to the present invention, the conventionally irritative surfactant particularly useful for component B) may be those having an EpiSkin cell viability of equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85%, or even equal to or less than 80%. For the purpose of the invention, the EpiSkin cell viability can be determined through the steps of: applying effective amount the compositions on reconstructed skin model, i.e., the EpiSkin, standing, and then making statistic of the viable cell amount, in which the "EpiSkin" is available from L'Oreal under the name of EpiSkin ^TM.

Without being restricted by any known theory, it is believed that component A) , when being used in combination with the conventionally irritative surfactant of component B) in an aqueous composition, can well swell in the solvent or medium, e.g., water, with any pH environment. Accordingly, the hydrophobic chain of component A) will attend to generate micellar with the surfactant of component B) , which will decrease the free monomer of the surfactant, and slow release the surfactant to penetrate into skin, in this way, the skin irritation can be effectively reduced.

The component B) may comprise: component B-1) , cationic surfactant; component B-2) , nonionic surfactant; and/or component B-3) , amphoteric surfactant, preferably having an EpiSkin cell viability of equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85%, or even equal to or less than 80%.

Component B-1) , Cationic surfactant

According to an embodiment of the invention, the composition of the present invention may comprise at least one cationic surfactant useful as component B-1) . Mention may be made, for example, of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include:

- a) those corresponding to the general formula (V) below:

in which formula (V) the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. X ^-for formula (V) is an anionic counterion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl sulfates, and (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl-or (C ₁-C ₄) alkylarylsulfonates, preferably halides, e.g., fluoride, chloride, bromide or the like.

The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C ₁-C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₁-C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxy (C ₂-C ₆) alkylene, C ₁-C ₃₀ alkylamide, (C ₁₂-C ₂₂) alkylamido (C ₂-C ₆) alkyl, (C ₁₂-C ₂₂) alkylacetate, C ₁-C ₃₀ hydroxyalkyl.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (V) , preference is given firstly to tetraalkylammonium halides such as tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance tetraalkylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium halides such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains from approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular halides such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly, alkoxy sulfates, especially distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, lastly, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium halide, particularly the chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, sold under the name

70 by the company Van Dyk;

- b) quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (VI) below:

in which formula (VI) :

R ₁₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow;

R ₁₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁-C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

R ₁₄ represents a C ₁-C ₄ alkyl group;

R ₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁-C ₄ alkyl group;

X ^-for formula (VI) represents an anionic counterion chosen in particular from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl sulfates, (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl- or (C ₁-C ₄) alkylarylsulfonates.

R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R ₁₄ preferably denotes a methyl group, and R ₁₅ preferably denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name

W 75 by the company Rewo;

- c) quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, particularly of formula (VII) below:

in which formula (VII) :

R ₁₆ denotes an alkyl group comprising from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms;

R ₁₇ is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group- (CH ₂) ₃-N ⁺ (R _16a) (R _17a) (R _18a) ; R _16a, R _17a, R _18a, R ₁₈, R ₁₉, R ₂₀ and R ₂₁, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

X ^-for formula (VII) represents an anionic counterion chosen in particular from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl sulfates, (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl- or (C ₁-C ₄) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89) , and Finquat CT, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75) ;

- d) quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of formula (VIII) below:

in which formula (VIII) :

■R ₂₂ is chosen from C ₁-C ₆ alkyl and C ₁-C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

■R ₂₃ is chosen from:

- the group

- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁-C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based groups R ₂₇,

- a hydrogen atom;

■R ₂₅ is chosen from:

- the group

- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁-C ₆ hydrocarbon-based groups R ₂₉,

- a hydrogen atom;

■R ₂₄, R ₂₆ and R ₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₇-C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups;

■r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

■r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, with r2+r1=2r and t1+t2=2t,

■y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

■x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

■X ^- for formula (VIII) represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion;

with the proviso that the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then R ₂₃ denotes R ₂₇ and that when z is 0, then R ₂₅ denotes R ₂₉.

The alkyl groups R ₂₂ may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R ₂₂ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 10.

When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon-based group R ₂₇, it may be long and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₂₅ is a hydrocarbon-based group R ₂₉, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₂₄, R ₂₆ and R ₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₁-C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₁-C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anionic counterion X ^-for formula (VIII) is preferably a halide, preferably such as chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl sulfate or a (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl- or (C ₁-C ₄) alkylaryl-sulfonate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.

The anionic counterion X ^- for formula (VIII) is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (VIII) in which:

- R ₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

- x and y are equal to 1,

- z is equal to 0 or 1,

- r, s and t are equal to 2,

- R ₂₃ is chosen from:

● the group

● methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,

● a hydrogen atom,

- R ₂₅ is chosen from:

● the group

● a hydrogen atom,

- R ₂₄, R ₂₆ and R ₂₈, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₃-C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₃-C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions of formula (VIII) , examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxy-ethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxy-ethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names

by the company Henkel,

by the company Stepan,

by the company Ceca or

WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of mono-, di-and triesters with a weight majority of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.

Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Some amines may provide cations when being interacted with other reagents, e.g., certain acids. In such cases, the specific amines may be classified into the useful cationic surfactant.

Preferred examples of the useful cationic surfactant comprise non-silicone cationic surfactants, including cetyl triammonium, behenyl triammonium, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, distearoylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, methyl (C9-C19) alkyl, (C10-C20) alkyl amidoethylimidazolium, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine, a salt of stearamidopropyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cationic surfactant is the chloride and bromide salts of tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium.

According to an embodiment, among the cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

The component B-1) may preferably have an EpiSkin cell viability of equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85%, or even equal to or less than 80%.

The component B-1) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.001%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.005%to 5%by weight, or from 0.01%to 3%by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Component B-2) , nonionic surfactant

The composition according to the present invention may preferably comprise at least one nonionic surfactant, which may be fatty acid ester or ether of polyglycerol, or other conventional irritative surfactant, for use as component B-2) .

As component B-2) of the composition according to the invention, mono-or poly-glycerolated surfactants may be used, which preferably comprise on average from 1 to 30 glycerol groups, more particularly from 1 to 10 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 5.

The monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated surfactants are preferably chosen from the compounds of the following formulae:

R”O [CH ₂CH (CH ₂OH) O] _mH,

R”O [CH ₂CH (OH) CH ₂O] _mH or

R”O [CH (CH ₂OH) CH ₂O] _mH;

in which formulae:

●R” represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms; m is an integer between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10 and more particularly from 1.5 to 6; R” may optionally comprise heteroatoms, for instance oxygen and nitrogen. In particular, R” may optionally comprise one or more hydroxyl and/or ether and/or amide groups. R” preferably denotes mono-or polyhydroxylated C ₁₀-C ₂₀ alkyl, and/or alkenyl radicals.

Use may be made, for example, of the polyglycerolated (3.5 mol) hydroxylauryl ether sold under the name

NF from Chimex.

The (poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohols that are suitable for performing the invention are chosen more particularly from alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

The (poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohols more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The (poly) ethoxylated fatty alcohol (s) preferably have the following formula (XII) :

with

- R ₃ representing a linear or branched C ₈-C ₄₀ alkyl or alkenyl group and preferably C ₈-C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and

- c is an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferably between 2 and 50 and more particularly between 8 and 30, such as 20.

According to an embodiment of the invention, the composition may comprise at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol for use as a nonionic surfactant.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is chosen from esters resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and of at least one fatty acid containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, or from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.

The fatty acid esters of polyglycerol can be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. Use is preferably made of esters with a low degree of esterification, for instance fatty acid monoesters, diesters or triesters of polyglycerol, or a mixture. The fatty acid ester of polyglycerol can be in the form of a mixture of esters with a low degree of esterification, for instance a mixture of monoester and diester or a mixture of monoester, diester and triester.

Mention may in particular be made of polyglyceryl-2 distearate, in particular as sold by NIHON EMULSION under the name Emalex PGSA; polyglyceryl-10 decastearate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-1810S; polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft A-186E; polyglyceryl-2 laurate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-12D; polyglyceryl-5 laurate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft A-121E-C; polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-175S; polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-185S; polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, in particular as sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name Isolan GI 34; diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, in particular as sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name Isolan PDI; polyglyceryl-2 oleate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-17B; polyglyceryl-5 trimyristate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft A-143E; polyglyceryl-2 caprylate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-81B; polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name SUNSOFT Q-102H-C.

According to an embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one additional nonionic surfactant other than fatty acid ester or ether of polyglycerol, also for use as component B-2) .

Examples of the useful additional nonionic surfactants may comprise esters of polyols and of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e. derivatives containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated units, e.g., oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the polyethylene glycol esters of C ₈-C ₂₄ fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sorbitol esters of C ₈-C ₂₄ fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) esters of C ₈-C ₂₄ fatty acids (fatty acid esters of glucose or of alkylglucose) , and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; the sugar ethers of C ₈-C ₂₄ fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty acid esters of glucose or of alkylglucose that may be mentioned in particular include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates, for instance methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates, for instance methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more especially the diester of methylglucoside and of oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate) ; the mixed ester of methylglucoside and of the oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxysterate) ; the ester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate) ; the ester of methylglucoside and of lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate) ; the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate) ; the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and of stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name

SS by the company Amerchol, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of glucose or of alkylglucose that may be mentioned include the oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methyl glucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) , such as the product sold under the name

E-20 distearate by the company Amerchol; the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name

SSE-20 by the company Amerchol, and the product sold under the name

PSE-20 by the company Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned include sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.

Examples of fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol or of cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) . Examples that may be mentioned include ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those of CTFA name Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.

Sugar ethers that may especially be mentioned are alkylpolyglucosides, for example decylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name

10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name

2000 by the company Henkel, and the product sold under the name

NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name

CG 110 by the company SEPPIC or under the name

GD 70 by the company BASF; laurylglucoside, for instance the products sold under the names

1200 N and

1200 by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP by the company Henkel; cetostearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name

68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name

CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name

KE3302 by the company Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name

202 by the company SEPPIC; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, sold under the name

82 by the company SEPPIC; and mixtures thereof.

PEG modified ester can also be used, such as PEG-7 Olivate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-80 Glyceryl Cocoate.

Polysorbate series, such as Polysorbate 20, 21, 60, 61 and 80, or glyceride compounds, such as caprylic glyceride (also called as monocaprylin) , capric glyceride (also called as monocaprin) , and lauric glyceride (also called as monolaurin) , e.g., PEG-6 caprylic/capric glyceride, may be additionally mentioned as examples of useful additional nonionic surfactants.

For the purpose of the invention, the at least one additional nonionic surfactant can itself serve as a solubilizer, so as to facilitate the dissolution or dispersion of the components in the aqueous composition.

The component B-2) may preferably have an EpiSkin cell viability of equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85%, or even equal to or less than 80%.

The component B-2) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 20%, such as from 0.5%to 10%, or from 1% to 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Component B-3) , amphoteric surfactant

According to an embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant as component B-3) , which may also be called as zwitterionic surfactant.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the present invention may be quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (III) and (IV) below:

in which formula (III) :

●R ₄ represents a C ₁₀-C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R ₄-C (O) -OH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

●R ₅ represents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and

●R ₆ represents a carboxymethyl group;

and

wherein:

●A represents-CH ₂CH ₂OX';

●A' represents- (CH ₂) z-Y', with z=1 or 2;

●X' represents the group-CH ₂-C (O) -OH, -CH ₂-C (O) -OZ’, -CH ₂CH ₂-C (O) -OH, -CH ₂-CH ₂-C (O) -OZ’, or a hydrogen atom;

●Y' represents –C (O) -OH, –C (O) -OZ’ or the group -CH ₂-CH (OH) -SO ₃H or -CH ₂-CH (OH) -SO ₃Z’;

●Z’ represents an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and in particular from an aminoalcohol, such as mono-, di-and triethanolamine, mono-, di-or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane.

●R ₇ represents a C ₁₀-C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R ₇C (O) -OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of C ₁₇ and its iso form, or an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

By way of example, mention may be made of the N-cocoylamidocarboxymethyl glycinate of an alkali metal such as sodium, or cocoamphodiacetate sold for example by the company Rhodia under the trade name

C2M concentrate.

Mention may be made in particular of a betaine surfactant, e.g., (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈-C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂-C ₈ alkyl) betaines and (C ₈–C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂-C ₈ alkyl) sulfobetaines.

Among all the amphoteric surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of cocoylamidopropylbetaine, cocoylbetaine and the N-cocoylamidocarboxymethyl glycinate of an alkali metal such as sodium.

According to one specific embodiment of the present invention, the amphoteric surfactant mentioned above is cocoylamidopropylbetaine or cocoylbetaine.

The component B-3) may preferably have an EpiSkin cell viability of equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85%, or even equal to or less than 80%.

Anionic surfactant

According to an embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention preferably does not comprise an anionic surfactant.

That is, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention is free of anionic surfactant.

Component C) , Medium/solvent

The composition according to the invention can advantageously comprise at least one medium/solvent, for use as component C) , including water and/or organic medium/solvent.

Water

The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise water in various amounts. For low viscosity applications of the composition, e.g., in form of leave-on lotion, a relatively high amount of water may be used. For example, water is used in a content of greater than or equal to 40%by weight relative to the total weight of composition. The water content in the low viscosity composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 40%to 99.9%by weight, from 50%to 99%by weight, or from 60%to 90%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Organic medium/solvent

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic medium/solvents, preferably water-soluble organic medium/solvents (solubility of greater than or equal to 5%in water at 25℃ and at atmospheric pressure) .

Examples of the organic medium/solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched, and preferably saturated, monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, (iso) propanol, butanol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol) , neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1, 5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as phenylethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, in particular C3-C6 polyols, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially C ₁-C ₄ alkyl ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.

The organic medium/solvents, when they are present in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 40%by weight, preferably from 1%to 30%by weight, or from 5%to 20%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Preservative

For use of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise a preservative. The preservative useful according to the present invention can be any one conventionally used for cosmetics, in particular for ampoule products.

For example, preservatives can be used according to the present invention comprise methylchloroisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, derivatives of hydantoin, such as DMDMH, parahydroxybenzoate ester, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid and a derivative thereof, e.g., a salt thereof, such as sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone, amino-acid based preservative, sorbitan octanate, glycerol caprylate and the like, or salicylic acid.

The preservative can be present according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.01%to 3%, or from 0.01%to 1%, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.

Chelating agents

According to one particularly advantageous embodiment, the composition may comprise a chelating agent. Such chelating agents are defined and described in particular in the article "Chelating agents" Kirk Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Vol. 5 pp. 708-739, published in 2003.

As mentioned in that article, the examples of a chelating agent are made to polyphosphates, aminocarboxylic acids, 1, 3-diketones, hydroxycarboxylic acids, polyamines, amino alcohols, heterocyclic aromatic bases, aminophenols, Schiff's bases, tetrapyrroles, sulfur compounds, synthetic macrocyclic compounds, polymers and phosphonic acids.

For the purpose of the present invention, useful chelating agents can comprise elhylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) , aminotriacetic acid, diethylene triaminepentaacetic acid, and a salt thereof, e.g., N, N-bis (carboxymethyl) glutamic acid, disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium salt of N, N-bis (carboxymethyl) glutamic acid (glutamic acid diacetic acid, GLDA) ; hydroxyl carboxylic acids, e.g., citric acid, tartaric acid, glucuronic acid, succinic acid, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) , and a salt thereof; hydroxyl aminocarboxylic acids, e.g., hydroxyethylethylenediamine triacetic acid (HEDTA) , dihydroxyethylglycine (DEG) , and a salt thereof; polyphosphonic acid, and a salt thereof; other phosphor-containing organic acid, e.g., phytic acid, and a salt thereof, e.g., sodium phytate, potassium phytate polycarboxylic acid, e.g., polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, and a salt thereof.

These agents are particularly useful for reducing the electrostatic bonding associated with substantial presence of water in the intermediate makeup and/or care composition according to the invention. To do this, the addition of a sequestrant or of a complexing agent, for instance disodium/tetrasodium EDTA, makes it possible to complex the free ions, and more specifically the cations of the type Ca ²⁺ (mineral fillers) especially present in the nacres and fillers. Consequently, when EDTA complexes these ions, the ionic strength of the water decreases. Preferably, this agent is chosen from aminocarboxylic acids, and is preferably EDTA or a derivative thereof.

For example, a useful chelating agent is chosen from sodium citrate, disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium GLDA, trisodium EDDS, phytic acid, sodium phytate, potassium phytate, and mixtures thereof.

According to the present invention, the chelating agent can be present in the composition from 0.001%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.01%to 0.1%by weight, or preferably from 0.1%to 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

Polysaccharide

The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one polysaccharide, which is preferably of biotechnological origin.

In particular, these polysaccharides may, where appropriate, be chemically modified to promote its hydrophilic valency, as is the case for cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkylcelluloses (e.g.: hydroxyethylcellulose) .

As examples of polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of:

a) algal extracts such as alginates, carrageenans and agar-agar, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans that may be mentioned include Satiagum

and

from the company Degussa; an alginate that may be mentioned is the sodium alginate sold under the name

by the company ISP;

b) gums, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar) , gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, agar gum, scleroglucan gums and mixtures thereof; examples that may be mentioned include the xanthan gum sold under the name

CG-T by the company CP Kelco, gellan gum sold under the name

CG LA by the company CP Kelco, guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP

by the company Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac

(1%glucomannan) sold by the company GfN;

c) starches, which are preferably modified, such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from legumes such as white lentil, from tubers such as potato or cassava, tapioca starches; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; Amidon de

from the company Roquette; potato feculent modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure

by the company National Starch; native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca

by the company National Starch;

d) dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name

from the company National Starch;

e) celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkylcelluloses; mention may be made especially of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. Examples that may be mentioned include the hydroxyethylcellulose sold under the name Natrosol ^TM 250 HHR PC by the company Ashland, or under the name Cellosize ^TM QP 4400 H by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemical) , cetylhydroxyethylcelluloses sold under the names Polysurf

and Natrosol Plus

from Aqualon;

f) pectins,

g) chitosan and derivatives thereof,

h) polyholosides comprising at least two saccharides, preferably of natural origin, and especially chosen from:

- aldoses such as

- pentoses: ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiose, for example,

- hexoses: glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose, for example,

- ketoses such as fructose,

- deoxyoses, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose,

- saccharide derivatives such as uronic acids, for instance mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, galacturonic acid or glycuronic acid, or itols, for instance mannitol or sorbitol.

Mention may be made in particular of the polyholosides comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, and for example a linear sequence of α-L-fucose, α-D-galactose and galacturonic acid, for instance the biosaccharide gum-1 sold under the trade name

1000 PP or

1.5P by the company Solabia,

i) anionic polysaccharides, in particular of biotechnological origin, such as anionic polysaccharide bearing as repeating unit a tetrasaccharide composed of L-fucose, D-glucose and glucuronic acid, such as the product bearing the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4 sold under the reference Glycofilm 1.5P by the company Solabia,

j) and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the polysaccharide of the present invention is chosen from:

- gums such as xanthan gum, or gellan gum;

- cellulose and its derivatives, for example hydroxyethylcellulose;

- polyholosides comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, for example biosaccharide gum-1.

According to an embodiment, the polysaccharide, such as According to an embodiment, can also serve as a gelling agent for the composition of the present invention.

According to an embodiment, the polysaccharide can be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.0001%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.001%to 2%by weight, or from 0.005%to 1%by weight of the polysaccharides, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional active ingredient

The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more additional active ingredients, in particular cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical.

In the context of the present invention, an additional active ingredient is an active ingredient other than polydatin or resveratrol present in the composition and the other active agents specifically defined above.

Advantageously, such additional active ingredient, cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical, may be intended to exert a cosmetic, care or hygiene effect on keratin materials such as skin, including face, hair, eyelashes, scalp and/or leather hairy, and preferentially on the skin.

The choice of this additional active ingredient is of course conditioned by the effect sought jointly by the composition in question.

Thus, a composition according to the invention may further comprise an active ingredient having an anti-aging activity, or a hydration activity.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional active ingredient (s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the proposed addition.

These additional active ingredients are generally present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0001%to 20%by weight and preferably from 0.01%to 10%by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Additives

According to various embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are provided for application to skin. In accordance with these embodiments, the compositions of the present invention can comprise various ingredients conventionally useful in compositions for conditioning skin, such as, humectants, fatty substances, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing loss and/or for promoting regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestrants, plasticizers, acidifying agents, opacifiers, pearlescent or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxyacids, fragrances and preserving agents.

A non-exhaustive listing of such ingredients can be found in U.S. patent application publication no. 2004/0170586, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference. Still further examples of such additional ingredients may be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9 ^th ed. 2002) .

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

These additives may be selected variously by the person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example, consistency or texture. In particular, the additives, if used, and the amounts thereof are particularly determined according to the specific products/applications thereof, e.g., leave-on conditioner, rinse-off conditioner, skincare conditioner and the like.

These additives may be present in the composition in an amount from 0.01%to 50%relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

Method and use

The composition according to the present invention can be generally prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Nevertheless, it is to be understood that a person skilled in the art can choose the method of preparation, on the basis of his/her general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the constituents used, for example, their solubility in the vehicle, and the application envisaged for the compositions or the kit.

According to an embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can be used to formulate products useful for cosmetic use, e.g., for caring for keratin materials.

The composition according to the present invention is preferably useful to formulate skincare products. Also, according to the detailed discussions above, it is to be understood that the composition according to the present invention may be free of silicone oil.

The present invention thus provides use of the composition according to the present invention for enhancing the performance of a cosmetic and/or therapeutic product while avoiding or reducing the irritation suffered by skin.

The invention will be further illustrated by the following examples, which set forth particularly advantageous embodiments.

Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the present invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope as a result.

Examples

The ingredient amounts/concentrations in the compositions/formulas described below were expressed in %by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula.

Material:

AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/STEARETH-25 METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER: ARISTOFLEX HMS, available from CLARIANT;

PEG-7GLYCERYL COCOATE: CETIOL HE, available from BASF; and

other materials without specification here were each commercially available.

EXAMPLE I, PREPARATION OF COMPOSITIONS

Compositions were prepared according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 as in Table 1 below:

Table 1

The above listed compositions were prepared according to known manufacturing method of field. Briefly, the procedure of preparing the compositions comprised the steps of:

1) . dissolving component B) in water to ensure it swell in water completely, to provide a polymer solution; and

2) . adding component A) to the polymer solution and mixing sufficiently.

EXAMPLE II

The effect of the compositions on the cell viability were determined, comprising the steps of: applying effective amount the compositions on reconstructed skin model, standing, and then making statistic of the viable cell amount. The more viability meant the more comfort level.

The sebum migration results were provided as follows:

Table 2

Properties	Ex. 1	CE. 1	CE. 2	CE. 3	CE4
EpiSkin (cell viability)	99.8%	77.5%	84.6%	87%	80.9%

Claims

An aqueous composition for improving surfactant, comprising the components of:

A) at least one hydrophobic AMPS copolymer;

B) at least one conventionally irritative surfactant, having an EpiSkin cell viability of equal to or less than 90%, preferably equal to or less than 85%; and

C) solvent/medium.
The composition according to claim 1, wherein the component A) is totally neutralized or at least 90%neutralized, preferably partially or totally neutralized with ammonia.
The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component A) is crosslinked, preferably the crosslinking agent used being selected from the group consisting of divinylbenzene; ethers; esters; amides and a mixture thereof, with preferably a degree of crosslinking ranging from 0.01 mol%to 10 mol%and more particularly from 0.2 mol%to 2 mol%relative to the polymer.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component A) is crosslinked copolymers comprising at least an acrylamido-2 methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component A) is selected from the group consisting of acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate crosslinked copolymers, copolymers of AMPS and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide, copolymers of AMPS and of sodium acrylate, AMPS/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, or ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component A) is present in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 5%by weight, from 0.3%to 3%by weight, or from 0.5%to 2%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component B) comprises component B-1) , at least one cationic surfactant, which is selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably from the group consisting of stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component B) comprises component B-2) , at least one nonionic surfactant, which is selected from the group consisting of fatty acid ester or ether of polyglycerol, such as esters resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and of at least one fatty acid containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, or from 8 to 18 carbon atoms; and fatty acid esters of glucose or of alkylglucose, oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of glucose or of alkylglucose, sugar ethers, PEG modified ester, Polysorbate series, and glyceride compounds; such as cocoglucoside, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-80 Glyceryl Cocoate, Polysorbate 20 or 21, caprylic glyceride, capric glyceride, lauric glyceride, or PEG-6 caprylic/capric glyceride..
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component B) comprises component B-3) , at least one amphoteric surfactant, which is selected from the group consisting of (C ₈-C ₂₀) alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈-C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂-C ₈ alkyl) betaines and (C ₈–C ₂₀ alkyl) amido (C ₂-C ₈ alkyl) sulfobetaines.
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component B) is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 20%, such as from 0.5%to 10%, or from 1%to 5%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition..
The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component C) is selected from the group consisting of water and organic medium/solvent, in which the organic medium/solvent is preferably selected from the group consisting of linear and branched, and preferably saturated, monoalcohols and diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms.
The composition according to claim 11, wherein water, if any, is present in an amount ranging from 40%to 99.9%by weight, preferably from 50%to 99%by weight, or from 60%to 90%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and the organic medium/solvent, if any, is present in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 40%by weight, preferably from 1%to 30%by weight, or from 5%to 20%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Use of the composition according to any one of the preceding claims for avoiding or reducing the irritation suffered by skin.
A product useful for cosmetic use, comprising the composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1-12.