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WO2022152386A1 - Composition cosmétique liquide - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique liquide Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022152386A1
WO2022152386A1 PCT/EP2021/050737 EP2021050737W WO2022152386A1 WO 2022152386 A1 WO2022152386 A1 WO 2022152386A1 EP 2021050737 W EP2021050737 W EP 2021050737W WO 2022152386 A1 WO2022152386 A1 WO 2022152386A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
mass
cosmetic composition
volatile
silicone
extract
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2021/050737
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English (en)
Inventor
Kenta FUJIOKA
Koichi Hata
Original Assignee
Lvmh Recherche
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Lvmh Recherche filed Critical Lvmh Recherche
Priority to PCT/EP2021/050737 priority Critical patent/WO2022152386A1/fr
Publication of WO2022152386A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022152386A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/025—Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61—Surface treated
    • A61K2800/614—By macromolecular compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, and particularly to an eye-shadow.
  • Eye-shadow in particular, is known as a cosmetic that, when applied onto the eyelids and especially eye holes or tear bags, adds gloss or shadow to the areas surrounding the eyes to produce a three-dimensional effect for the eyes, thereby creating an impression of larger eyes.
  • Methods of combining and applying eye-shadows with different color shades to create a more prominent three-dimensional impression have also been investigated.
  • Eye-shadow must have, primarily, a high coloring effect with intense payoff and a glitter finish for creation of a shiny effect for the eyes, as well as a long-lasting effect to withstand blinking and changes in facial expression.
  • Eye-shadow is marketed in a variety of forms including powders, creams, liquids, emulsions, gels and pencils.
  • Powder eye-shadows are basically composed of large amounts of powder comprising pigments, pearlescent pigments and fillers, in combination with oily components. Powder eye-shadows are used by pressing them against the eyelids with a brush or the like, and therefore they have high adhesiveness and moldability. However, most of them do not contain film formers, and their long-lasting effects against blinking or in the presence of humidity have been insufficient.
  • Emulsion eye-shadows are of two types, oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O) types.
  • Oil-in-water emulsion eye-shadows are basically composed of a pearl pigment, water, a surfactant, a thickener, a film former such as an acrylate derivative, and a small amount of an oily component. Since the continuous phase is aqueous with minimal powder, these are able to form shiny films with a fresh sensation, but they also have low moisture resistance and tend to form thick uneven films.
  • Conventional water-in-oil emulsion eye-shadows contain highly hydrophobic film formers such as silicone resins and therefore exhibit high moisture resistance, but they also generally contain thickeners in order to exhibit robust stability and therefore tend to have higher viscosity.
  • PTLs 1 to 6 A wide variety of emulsion-type cosmetic compositions have been investigated in the prior art (PTLs 1 to 6).
  • the invention provides the following [1] to [4].
  • a cosmetic composition comprising (A) a pearl pigment, (B) a silicon-based film former, (C) a silicone surfactant having a weight-average molecular weight of 50,000 or lower and an HLB value of 1 to 8, (D) an organically modified mineral clay and (E) an oily component, the content of the pearl pigment being 3 to 50 mass% based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention it is possible to provide a cosmetic composition having both intense payoff and moisture resistance.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention can also provide a long-lasting effect and a comfortable finish.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention has an intense payoff and moisture resistance, it can be suitably used even in environments in which humidity is felt around the face for long periods (such as high temperature, high humidity environments that tend to cause sweating, or situations where the face area is covered with a mask).
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention can also be used as a liquid eye-shadow, cheek cream or liquid lipstick.
  • One embodiment of the invention is a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising (A) a pearl pigment, (B) a silicon-based film former, (C) a silicone surfactant having a weight-average molecular weight of 50,000 or lower and an HLB value of 1 to 8, (D) an organically modified mineral clay and (E) an oily component, the content of the pearl pigment being 3 to 50 mass% based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the powder components such as the pearl pigment gently settle, not only forming a sparsely filled state but also creating a two-phase system comprising a powder-free oil phase (upper layer) and a dispersed phase (lower layer). Since the cosmetic composition of the embodiment tends to have a transparent upper layer when it forms such a two-phase system, it has an excellent aesthetic appearance while standing on the vendor shelf and can have an increased effect of appeal for buyers.
  • the lower layer has a greater volume (a more sparsely filled state) than conventional cosmetic compositions.
  • the lower layer is a dispersion system with dispersion of a high concentration of powder, and it exhibits non-Newtonian rheology in which the apparent viscosity changes depending on the shear speed. When the shear speed increases, this type of dispersion system has reduced viscosity and can form a pseudoplastic flow (thixotropy).
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment is preferably used after gentle shaking. Even after it has been standing for long periods, the powder including the pearl pigment can be easily re -dispersed by gently shaking the container encapsulating the cosmetic composition.
  • the pearl pigment also referred to as pearlescent or brilliant pigment
  • the pearl pigment comprises lamellar inorganic particles situated in a laminar form to cause multi-layer reflection of light, thus exhibiting artificial pearl-like glossiness.
  • constituent components of pearl pigments include metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, aluminum oxide, bengala, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, chromium oxide and chromium hydroxide, metal complexes such as manganese violet and cobalt titanate, and sericite, mica, synthetic mica, synthetic fluorine bronze mica, calcined talc, calcined sericite, calcined muscovite, calcined bronze mica, permiculite, synthetic mica, natural mica, silica, (calcium (Ca)/aluminum (Al)) borosilicate (i.e.
  • Titanium dioxide is known as a white pigment
  • iron oxides are known as red, yellow or black colored pigments
  • organic pigments such as D&C RED7 (color index C.I 15850) are known as red, yellow or blue colored pigments. These may be appropriately combined for adjustment to a desired color tone.
  • Pearl pigments are available as commercial products, examples of which include mica titaniums such as Timiron Super Blue and Timiron Starlight Blue (both by Merck, Ltd.), Flamenco Gold, Flamenco Sparkle Gold, Flamenco Summit Gold, Gemtone Tan Opal and Timica Brilliant White (all by BASF Corp.), synthetic bronze micas such as PDM20L and PDM40L (both by Topy Industries, Ltd.), titanium oxide -coated synthetic bronze micas such as Prominence BF and Prominence BH (both by Nihon Koken Kogyo Co., Ltd., and HELIOS R100S (Topy Industries, Ltd.), iron oxide- or black iron oxide -coated mica titaniums such as Colorona Bright Gold (Merck, Ltd.) and Cloisonne Golden Bronze (BASF Corp.), iron oxide-coated micas such as Colorona Bordeaux (Merck, Ltd.), ferric ammonium ferrocyanide-coated mica titaniums such as Colorona Dark Blue (Merck, Ltd.), carmine -coated mica titanium
  • the pearl pigment may also be hydrophobically surface-treated lamellar particles.
  • the hydrophobic surface treatment agent may be one that can bond to the surfaces of the pigment particles to impart hydrophobicity.
  • hydrophobic surface treatment agents include silicones, amino acids, acylated amino acids, lecithins, fluorine compounds, alkylsilane compounds, urethane compounds, acrylic compounds, methacrylic compounds, fatty acids, sugar derivatives, and their salts.
  • Preferred hydrophobic surface treatment agents are silicones and acylated amino acids.
  • the pearl pigment in the cosmetic composition of the embodiment may also be surface -treated with two or more hydrophobic surface treatment agents.
  • the pearl pigment may be a combination of two or more kinds of hydrophobically surface-treated particles, or a combination of particles surface -treated and particles not surface-treated.
  • Amino acids include glycine, alanine, sarcosine, proline, hydroxyproline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid and lysine. These amino acids may also be acylated with a fatty acid.
  • the fatty acid is preferably a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid of 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid of 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • Such acylated amino acids include stearoylglutamic acid, lauroylglutamic acid, myristoylglutamic acid, stearoyllysine, lauroyllysine and myristoyllysine.
  • a preferred acylated amino acid is stearoylglutamic acid.
  • An amino acid salt may be a sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or aluminum salt.
  • the content of a pearl pigment may be 3 to 50 mass%, 3 to 40 mass%, 3 to 30 mass%, 3 to 25 mass%, 3 to 20 mass%, 10 to 40 mass%, 10 to 30 mass%, 10 to 25 mass%, 10 to 20 mass%, 15 to 40 mass%, 15 to 30 mass%, 15 to 25 mass%, 15 to 20 mass%, 20 to 40 mass%, 20 to 30 mass% or 25 to 40 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the content of the pearl pigment is within this range it will be possible to further increase the coverage effect and/or long-lasting effect, and to form a thinner film.
  • the content of the pearl pigment is preferably 10 to 30 mass% based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the ratio of the surface treatment agent may be 0.1 to 10 mass%, preferably 0.5 to 5 mass%, and more preferably 1 to 3 mass%, based on the total mass of the pearl pigment (that is, the surface-treated particle).
  • the ratio of the surface treating agent is within this range, the feeling when the pearl pigment touches the skin is more excellent, and there is a tendency that the decrease in luminance is less likely to occur.
  • a pearl pigment tends to form the closest packing state by laminar layering. Once a pearl pigment has reached the closest packing state, it undergoes further caking which reduces its re-dispersibility. With the cosmetic composition of the embodiment, however, due to the combination with organically modified mineral clay, the settling rate of the pearl pigment in the composition is more gradual and a more bulky and sparsely filled state readily forms.
  • the use of a hydrophobically surface-treated pearl pigment also allows the lamellar particles to be covered by the hydrophobic surface treatment agent molecules, thereby further helping to form a sparsely filled state.
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment tends to have increased bulk volume of the powder dispersed phase and is resistant to caking, allowing it to be easily re-dispersed with less force.
  • the silicon-based film former (B) is a polymer with a siloxane structure, which forms a film after being applied onto skin.
  • the silicon-based film former By formation of a thin-film on the skin by the silicon-based film former, the pearl pigment and the powder including organically modified mineral clay tend to remain on the skin, allowing moisture resistance (such as water resistance, sebum resistance and water-repellency) to be exhibited. Since a firm coated film is formed by the silicon-based film former, the coverage effect and long-lasting effect are increased and breakup of the cosmetic is less likely to occur. Since the powder also more easily remains in the film, the cosmetic is less likely to be transferred onto masks or clothing.
  • Examples of silicon-based film formers include silicone resins and acrylate/silicon copolymers.
  • silicone resins include fluorine, modified silicone resins (for example, trifluoroalkyldimethyltrimethyl siloxy silicates), trimethyl siloxysilicates (for example, MQ resins), polymethylsilsesquioxanes (for example, MT resins), (meth)acrylic silicone resins (for example, acrylates/dimethicone copolymers, and vinyl polymers having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure).
  • a (meth)acrylic silicone resin is a copolymer of a polymer including a (meth)acrylic acid or its ester as a monomer unit, with a polyorganosiloxane.
  • (meth) acrylic refers to acrylic, methacrylic or both, with similar expressions also having corresponding meanings.
  • the content of a silicon-based film former may be 1 to 25 mass%, or it may be 1 to 20 mass%, 1 to 15 mass%, 1 to 10 mass%, 1 to 5 mass%, 3 to 25 mass%, 3 to 20 mass%, 3 to 15 mass%, 3 to 10 mass%, 3 to 5 mass%, 5 to 25 mass%, 5 to 20 mass%, 5 to 15 mass%, 5 to 10 mass%, 10 to 25 mass%, 10 to 20 mass%, 10 to 15 mass%, 15 to 25 mass%, 15 to 20 mass%, or 20 to 25 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the silicon-based film former content is within this range, not only will the coverage effect and long-lasting effect be further improved, but a cosmetic with superior comfortable finish can also be obtained. Since a thinner film can be formed, breakup of the cosmetic due to changes in facial expression is also less likely to occur.
  • the silicon-based film former content is preferably 3 to 15 mass% based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • a silicone resin is sometimes handled in a state dissolved in a volatile oil, and in some cases it may be utilized together with a volatile oil.
  • Methyltrimethicone, dimethicone, isododecane and butyl acetate are used as such volatile oils.
  • the amount of volatile oil that may be introduced together with the silicone resin is also summed in as the amount of volatile oil described below.
  • examples of such silicone resins include KF-7312T (trade name of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), KF-549 (trade name of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) and DOWSIL® FA4004 ID Silicone Acrylate (The Dow Chemical Company).
  • Silicone resins in solid pure form without solvent dilution may also be used.
  • BELSIL® PMS MK (trade name of Wacker Asahi Kasei Silicone Co., Ltd.) is an example of a marketed product, and it may also be dissolved in a solvent as appropriate.
  • the silicone surfactant (C) has a chemical structure with a hydrophilic group introduced into a polysiloxane backbone.
  • the HLB value of a silicone surfactant varies depending on the type of hydrophilic group.
  • hydrophilic groups include polyethers and polyglycerol groups such as polyethylene glycol (hereunder also referred to as "PEG”) and polypropylene glycol (hereunder also referred to as "PPG").
  • the silicone surfactant may also be modified with an alkyl group (polyether/alkyl co-modification, polyglycerol/alkyl co-modification).
  • the silicone chain of a silicone surfactant may be straight-chain or branched.
  • Two or more silicone chains may also be crosslinked by hydrophilic groups.
  • the number of ethylene oxide units in a polyethylene glycol is not particularly restricted and may be 1 or more, 2 or more, 3 or more, 4 or more, 5 or more or 6 or more.
  • the number of ethylene oxide units may also be up to 11, up to 10 or up to 9.
  • silicone surfactants include cetyl PEG/PPG-10 dimethicone, PEG-9 poly dimethylsiloxy ethyl dimethicone and PEG- 10 dimethicone.
  • the HLB value of the silicone surfactant to be used for this embodiment is 1 to 8, and may be 2 to 7, 3 to 7, 3 to 6 or 4 to 6.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone surfactant may be 50,000 or lower, and is preferably 45,000 or lower, 40,000 or lower, 35,000 or lower, 30,000 or lower, 25,000 or lower, 20,000 or lower or 18,000 or lower. If the weight-average molecular weight is 50,000 or lower, the viscosity of the surfactant will not excessively increase and the formed film will be less likely to become thick. If a thin film is formed, then breakup of the cosmetic or smudging due to changes in facial expression such as blinking will be less likely to occur, and the long-lasting effect and comfortable finish will be superior.
  • the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone surfactant may be 300 or higher, 400 or higher, 1000 or higher, 2000 or higher or 3000 or higher.
  • the value of the molecular weight and the method of measurement of the molecular weight can be those provided by the manufacturer of the silicone surfactant. Alternatively, a person skilled in the art can use any suitable method he is aware of in order to determine the value of the molecular weight.
  • the molecular weight unit can be in g/mol.
  • the content of the silicone surfactant may be 0.5 to 5 mass%, 0.5 to 4 mass%, 0.5 to 3 mass%, 0.5 to 2 mass%, 0.5 to 1 mass%, 1 to 5 mass%, 1 to 4 mass%, 1 to 3 mass%, 1 to 2 mass%, 2 to 5 mass%, 2 to 4 mass%, 2 to 3 mass%, 3 to 5 mass% or 3 to 4 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the silicone surfactant content is preferably 1 to 3 mass% based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the silicone surfactant content is within this range the emulsified state will be more stable and it will be possible to further increase the feel during application, the coverage effect and the long-lasting effect.
  • the organically modified mineral clay (D) is clay that has been modified to hydrophobicity with an organic molecule, and it has a thickening effect.
  • clay include kaolinite, dickite, nacrite, donbassite, antigorite, berthierine, pyrophyllite, montmorillonite, beidellite, vermiculite, talc, stevensite, hectorite, saponite, chlorite and sepiolite, which are modified to hydrophobicity with organic molecules.
  • organic molecules include quaternary ammonium salts, and more specifically disteardimonium chloride and stearalkonium chloride.
  • organically modified mineral clays that are known include disteardimonium hectorite and stearalkonium chloride hectorite.
  • a specific example of disteardimonium hectorite is BENTON 38V (trade name of Elementis), and a specific example of stearalkonium hectorite is BENTON 27V (trade name of Elementis).
  • the organically modified mineral clay may be handled in a state dispersed in a volatile oil and/or a non-volatile oil, in which case it may be utilized together with a volatile oil.
  • Such volatile oils include octamethyltrisiloxane, isododecane, isohexadecane, petroleum volatiles and methyltrimethicone.
  • Non-volatile oils include propylene carbonate, crambe abyssinica seed oil, castor oil, olive fruit oil, octyldodecanol, isopropyl myristate, liquid lanolin, mineral oil, hydrogenated polyisobutene, phenyltrimethicone, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and alkyl benzoates.
  • each volatile oil or non-volatile oil that may be introduced together with the organically modified mineral clay are summed in as the amount of volatile oil or non-volatile oil described below.
  • the BENTON GEL Series (trade name of Elementis) are known as specific organically modified clays.
  • the content of an organically modified mineral clay may be 0.1 to 3 mass%, 0.1 to 0.5 mass%, 0.1 to 1 mass%, 0.1 to 1.5 mass%, 0.1 to 2 mass%, 0.1 to 3 mass%, 0.3 to 1 mass%, 0.3 to 1.5 mass%, 0.3 to 2 mass%, 0.3 to 3 mass%, 0.5 to 1 mass%, 0.5 to 1.5 mass%, 0.5 to 2 mass%, 0.5 to 3 mass%, 1 to 1.5 mass%, 1.5 to 2 mass% or 1.5 to 3 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the organically modified mineral clay content is preferably 0.5 to 1.5 mass% based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of this embodiment comprises organically modified mineral clay, it can further improve the dispersion stability and re-dispersibility of the pearl pigment. Specifically, adding an organically modified mineral clay results in a more gradual settling rate of the pearl pigment in the composition and allows formation of a sparsely filled state with higher bulk, thereby tending to result in a powder dispersed phase with a greater bulk volume, so that caking is less likely to occur and re-dispersion becomes easier with lower force.
  • the water resistance and sebum resistance after application onto skin are also superior, and effusion of sebum and the like can be inhibited.
  • the oily component (E) may be an oil that is liquid in an ordinary temperature and pressure environment.
  • the oily component is preferably volatile silicone.
  • the volatile silicone consists of a straight-chain silicone oil, a branched silicone oil and a combination thereof.
  • the volatile silicone is liquid at ordinary temperature and pressure (at 25 °C, 1 atm, for example).
  • Examples of volatile silicones include methyltrimethicone, octamethyltrisiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane (also referred as low-polymerized dimethicone, e.g. dimethicone with a viscosity of 2 cs or less is known as volatile.).
  • low-polymerized dimethicone commercial products include the trademarks KF-96L-1.5cs and KF-96L-2cs (from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.).
  • the proportion of volatile silicone with respect to the total mass of the oily component is more preferably 65 mass% or more, 70 mass% or more, 75 mass% or more, 80 mass% or more or 85 mass% or more.
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment preferably includes no volatile cyclic silicone, but it may contain it in an amount that does not interfere with the effect of the invention. According to one aspect, the cosmetic composition contains essentially no volatile cyclic silicone. According to another aspect, the cosmetic composition may contain a volatile cyclic silicone in a range that does not interfere with the effect exhibited by the invention.
  • Volatile cyclic silicones are dimethylsiloxanes with a cyclic structure in which multiple siloxanes are bonded, and examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (cyclotetrasiloxane) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane).
  • "contains essentially no volatile cyclic silicone” means that the volatile cyclic silicone content is greater than 0 mass% and 5 mass% or lower, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the composition contains no volatile cyclic silicone or if the content is within the aforementioned range, then the cosmetic composition of the embodiment will be likely to produce a comfortable feel and the thinness of the obtained film will tend to be inferior compared to other volatile oil agents.
  • the oily component content may be 20 to 90 mass%, 40 to 80 mass% or 45 to 75 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the oily component content is within this range, the spreadability of the cosmetic composition will be more excellent, and it will be easier to form a thinner coated film, while the coverage effect will also be superior. An oily component content in this range will also reduce stickiness of the formed film, allowing a comfortable feel to be exhibited during use. If the oily component content is in the range specified above, then for formulations that have separated into two layers, the transparency of the upper oily layer will be markedly improved while ensuring suitable viscosity, resulting in superior aesthetic appearance, stability over time and re-dispersibility.
  • the oily component may also include a volatile oil (other than volatile silicone) and a non-volatile oil.
  • the volatile oil can be introduced together with the silicon-based film former or organically modified clay mineral.
  • the volatile oil is a hydrocarbon oil having a specific gravity of 0.8017 or lower at a liquid temperature of 15 °C, for example.
  • the volatile oil other than volatile silicone is liquid at ordinary temperature and pressure (at 25°C, 1 atm, for example).
  • volatile oils other than volatile silicone include volatile hydrocarbon oils such as C 9 .i 2 alkanes and C15.19 alkanes, esters such as butyl acetate, and petroleum volatiles.
  • volatile oils are volatile hydrocarbon oils, and specifically nonane, decane, undecane, dodecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, heptadecane, octadecane, nonadecane, eicosane and their structural isomers. More preferred volatile oils are isododecane and isohexadecane. Examples of volatile oils commercial products include the trademarks Permethyl® 99A, Permethyl® 101A (from Nihon Koken Kogyo Co. Ltd.) and MAKI GREEN® D10 (from Daito Kasei Kogyo Co. Ltd.).
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment preferably includes no volatile oils other than volatile silicones, but it may contain them in amounts that do not interfere with the effect of the invention. According to one aspect, the cosmetic composition contains essentially no volatile oils other than volatile silicones. According to another aspect, the cosmetic composition may contain a volatile oil other than a volatile silicone in a range that does not interfere with the effect exhibited by the invention.
  • "contains essentially no volatile oils other than volatile silicones” means that the content of volatile oils other than volatile silicones is greater than 0 mass% and 20 mass% or lower, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition, and it is preferably greater than 0 mass% and 15 mass% or lower, greater than 0 mass% and 10 mass% or lower, greater than 0 mass% and 7.5 mass% or lower, greater than 0 mass% and 5 mass% or lower, greater than 0 mass% and 3 mass% or lower, greater than 0 mass% and 1 mass% or lower, 1 to 20 mass%, 1 to 15 mass%, 1 to 10 mass%, 1 to 7.5 mass%, 1 to 5 mass%, 1 to 3 mass%, 3 to 10 mass%, 3 to 5 mass%, 7.5 to 10 mass%, or 5 to 10 mass%.
  • the content of volatile oils other than volatile silicones is within this range it will be possible to form a thinner coated film without impairing the coverage effect and long-lasting effect, and the comfortable finish will also be superior. In addition, it will be unlikely to produce a dryness-induced stiff feeling, skin irritation or a blocking feeling after application onto skin, which is more preferred from the viewpoint of the feel during use.
  • a non-volatile oil is a liquid, non- vaporizing oily component in an ordinary temperature and pressure environment.
  • the non-volatile oil is not limited as far as it is excluded from the above definition of “volatile oil”.
  • the term "non-volatile oil” preferably refers to an oil having a volatile content of 40% or less when heated at 105°C for 3 hours.
  • Examples of non-volatile oils include ester oils, vegetable oils, non-volatile silicone oils and oil-soluble surfactants.
  • ester oils include propyleneglycol dicaprylate, propyleneglycol dicaprate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), polyglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tribehenate and diisostearyl malate.
  • hydrocarbon oils include liquid paraffins, squalane, polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene and olefin oligomers.
  • Examples of vegetable oils include meadowfoam seed oil, olive fruit oil, camellia oil, coconut oil, macadamia nut oil, rosehip oil, avocado oil, sunflower seed oil, rice bran oil, castor oil and almond oil.
  • non-volatile silicone oils examples include polydimethylsiloxane (also referred as high-polymerized dimethicone, dimethicone with a viscosity of 20 cs or more is known as non-volatile.), polymethylphenylsiloxane (diphenyldimethicone), phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone and dimethiconol.
  • the non-volatile oil is preferably high-polymerized dimethicone.
  • high-polymerized dimethicone commercial products include the trademark BELSIL® GB2170 (from Wacker Chemie AG), and the trademarks KF-96H-30000cs, KF-96H-50000cs, and KF-96H-100000cs (from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.).
  • oil-soluble surfactant refers to a non-silicone surfactant with relatively low water solubility, examples of which are aliphatic compounds with carboxy groups or hydroxyl groups, and hydrophobized metal salts.
  • Oil-soluble surfactants include surfactants having fatty acid backbones, such as oleic acid and isostearic acid, surfactants having sugar backbones, such as sorbitol, and surfactants having glycerin backbones. Those with relatively low hydrophilicity are primarily used since oil-soluble properties are required, but this is not a limitative condition.
  • such compounds include polyhydroxystearic acid, sorbitan sesquioleate and polyglyceryl -2 isostearate.
  • polyhydroxystearic acid is SALACOS® HS-6C (trade name of Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.)
  • sorbitan sesquioleate is SPAN®83 (trade name of Croda)
  • polyglyceryl-2 isostearate is SARACOS® 41V (trade name of Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.).
  • non-volatile oils include poly dimethylsiloxane (dimethicone) and dimethiconol, and especially dimethicone gum and dimethiconol gum which have high molecular weight structures. Selectively adding such non-volatile oil agents can form a film with high transparency without impairing the film strength of the silicon-based film former, thus allowing higher strength to be exhibited without loss of the luminosity of the pearl pigment.
  • dimethicone gum having a high molecular weight structure is BELSIL® GB2170 (trade name of Asahi Kasei Wacker Co., Ltd.), and an example of dimethiconol gum is BELSIL® GB1020 (trade name of Asahi Kasei Wacker Co., Ltd.).
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment preferably includes no non-volatile oils, but it may contain them in amounts that do not interfere with the effect of the invention. According to one aspect, the cosmetic composition contains essentially no non-volatile oils. According to another aspect, the cosmetic composition may contain a non-volatile oil in a range that does not interfere with the effect exhibited by the invention.
  • non-volatile oils contains essentially no non-volatile oils
  • the content of non-volatile oils is greater than 0 mass% and 10 mass% or lower, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition, and it is preferably greater than 0 mass% and 7.5 mass% or lower, greater than 0 mass% and 5 mass% or lower, greater than 0 mass% and 2.5 mass% or lower, 1 to 10 mass%, 1 to 7.5 mass%, 1 to 5 mass%, 1 to 2.5 mass%, 2.5 to 10 mass%, 2.5 to 7.5 mass%, 2.5 to 5 mass%, 5 to 10 mass% or 5 to 7.5 mass%. If the non-volatile oil content is within this range, a blocking feel or dryness-induced stiff feeling will be less likely to result, allowing a more comfortable finish to be obtained.
  • the mass ratio between volatile oils other than volatile silicones, and non-volatile oils may be suitably set in a range of 1:20 to 20:1. If the mass ratio of volatile oils and non-volatile oils is within this range, it will be possible to form a thinner film while providing a more excellent comfortable finish.
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment preferably includes no water (F), but it may contain it in an amount that does not interfere with the effect of the invention. According to one aspect, the cosmetic composition contains essentially no water. According to another aspect, the cosmetic composition may contain water in a range that does not interfere with the effect exhibited by the invention.
  • "contains essentially no water” means that the content of water is greater than 0 mass% and 10 mass% or lower, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition, and it is preferably greater than 0 mass% and 8 mass% or lower, greater than 0 mass% and 6 mass% or lower, greater than 0 mass% and 4 mass% or lower, greater than 0 mass% and 2 mass% or lower, 2 to 10 mass%, 2 to 8 mass%, 2 to 6 mass%, 2 to 4 mass%, 4 to 10 mass%, 4 to 8 mass%, 4 to 6 mass%, 6 to 10 mass%, 6 to 8 mass% or 8 to 10 mass%.
  • the content of the pearl pigment (A) is preferably 3 to 30 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the content of the pearl pigment (A) is more preferably 3 to 25 mass%, 3 to 20 mass%, 3 to 15 mass%, 3 to 10 mass%, 5 to 30 mass%, 5 to 25 mass%, 5 to 20 mass%, 5 to 15 mass%, 5 to 10 mass%, 7.5 to 30 mass%, 7.5 to 25 mass%, 7.5 to 20 mass%, 7.5 to 15 mass%, 7.5 to 10 mass%, 10 to 30 mass%, 10 to 25 mass%, 10 to 20 mass%, 10 to 15 mass%, 15 to 30 mass%, 15 to 25 mass%, 15 to 20 mass%, 20 to 30 mass%, 20 to 25 mass% or 25 to 30 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.
  • the contents of the silicon-based film former (B), silicone surfactant (C), organically modified mineral clay (D) and oily component (E) are preferably within the contents of the silicon-based film former (
  • the viscosity may be higher, but adjusting the contents of components (A) to (E), and especially the content of component (A), to the ranges specified above will help to prevent viscosity increase caused by an emulsified state.
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment may also contain (G) a spherical powder.
  • a spherical powder differs from a lamellar pearl pigment in that it generally does not exhibit luminosity. If a pearl pigment is used in combination with a silicone surfactant it will be difficult to form the closest packing state but their combination will further facilitate formation of a sparsely filled state.
  • the diameter of the spherical powder is preferably 1 to 10 pm and more preferably 3 to 7 pm.
  • Spherical powder may consist of any three-dimensional particles that are not lamellar particles, and it is preferably spherical or oblong powder.
  • spherical powder include inorganic particles such as silica, and organic resin particles of cellulose or starch.
  • the spherical powder may be hydrophobically surface-treated particles.
  • Spherical powder is preferably not nylon (such as nylon-12 or nylon-6/12), an acrylic resin (such as polymethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer or ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer), a silicone powder (such as (dimethicone/vinyldimethicone) crosspolymer, (vinyldimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane) crosspolymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane,
  • the spherical powder content may be 0.1 to 5 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition, or it may be 0.1 to 4 mass%, 0.1 to 3 mass%, 0.1 to 2 mass%, 0.1 to 1 mass%, 0.3 to 5 mass%, 0.3 to 4 mass%, 0.3 to 3 mass%, 0.3 to 2 mass%, 0.3 to 1 mass%, 0.5 to 5 mass%, 0.5 to 4 mass%, 0.5 to 3 mass%, 0.5 to 2 mass%, 0.5 to 1 mass%, 1 to 5 mass%, 1 to 4 mass%, 1 to 3 mass%, 1 to 2 mass%, 2 to 5 mass%, 2 to 4 mass% or 2 to 3 mass%.
  • the cosmetic composition of this embodiment may further contain additives such as lower alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, antimicrobial agents or antioxidants.
  • a lower alcohol may be a monoalcohol of 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • specific examples of lower alcohols are ethanol, 1 -propanol and 2-propanol (isopropanol).
  • the content of lower alcohols may be greater than 0 mass% and 5 mass% or lower, or 1 to 5 mass%, 2 to 5 mass%, 3 to 5 mass% or 2 to 4 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the lower alcohol content is within this range it will be easier to form a homogeneous film, and the coverage effect and long-lasting effect can be further increased. It is particularly preferred to add a lower alcohol when the cosmetic composition contains water.
  • a polyhydric alcohol may be an alcohol of 1 to 8 carbon atoms having two or more hydroxyl groups.
  • Specific examples of polyhydric alcohols are ethylene glycol,
  • the polyhydric alcohol content may be greater than 0 mass% and 5 mass% or lower, or 1 to 5 mass%, 2 to 5 mass% or 3 to 5 mass%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. If the polyhydric alcohol content is within this range it will be possible to further increase the moisture retention effect without impairing the feel of the formulation during use. It is particularly preferred to add a polyhydric alcohol when the cosmetic composition contains water.
  • An antimicrobial agent may be a component commonly used in the field of cosmetics.
  • the antimicrobial agent may be used for the purpose of preventing growth of microbes in the cosmetic to increase the long-term stability as a product, or for the purpose of maintaining or improving the balance of skin microflora (for example, Cutibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus).
  • antimicrobial agents include saturated or unsaturated fatty acids of 12 to 28 carbon atoms such as sodium benzoate, sodium dl-a-tocopheryl phosphate, o-cymen-5-ol, oleic acid and linoleic acid, and plant extracts such as hydrangea extract, izayoi rose extract, isopropylmethylphenol, oolong tea extract, rose fruit extract, Scutellaria root extract, phellodendron bark extract, huang lian extract, olive leaf extract, oyster tannin, caprylyl 2-glyceryl ascorbate, camomile flower extract, chamomilla extract, Chinese quince extract, Artemisia capillaris extract, licorice extract, xylitol, yellowfin bark extract, kuma bamboo grass extract, kurara extract, black tea extract, hawthorn extract, Japanese pepper extract, lithospermum root extract, shiso extract, peony extract, calamus extract, honeys
  • the viscosity of the cosmetic composition of the embodiment at 25 °C may be 100 to 1000 rnPa-s, preferably 100 to 800 rnPa-s, 100 to 600 rnPa-s, 200 to 800 rnPa-s or 200 to 600 rnPa- s, and more preferably 300 to 500 rnPa-s. If the viscosity is within this range, a thin, firm film will tend to be formable without impairing the time-dependent stability and re-dispersibility.
  • the viscosity of the cosmetic composition can be measured by any method known to those skilled in the art.
  • the viscosity of the cosmetic composition can be measured using a viscometer (such as a Rheolab QC (Anton Paar)), as the shear viscosity under conditions of 100 rpm, 25°C.
  • the cosmetic composition of the embodiment can be prepared by first adding the pearl pigment (A), silicon-based film former (B), the silicone surfactant with a weight-average molecular weight of 50,000 or lower and an HLB value of 1 to 8 (C), the organically modified mineral clay (D) and the oily component (E), and if necessary water (F) and/or a spherical powder (G), and then mixing them using a homogenizer.
  • Trimethylsiloxysilicate KF-7312T (trade name of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) Acrylates/dimethicone copolymer: KF-549 (trade name of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) Cetyl PEG/PPG-10 dimethicone (low MW type): ABIL®-EM90 (trade name of Evonik) Cetyl PEG/PPG-10 dimethicone (high MW type): ABIL®-EM180 (trade name of Evonik) Cetyl dimethicone: AB IL® WAX 9840 (trade name of Evonik)
  • PEG-10 Dimethicone KF-6017 (trade name of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)
  • High molecular weight dimethicone gum BELSIL® GB2170 (trade name of Asahi Kasei Wacker Co., Ltd.)
  • A Very excellent (e.g.: No breakup of the cosmetic after 8 hours compared to the state immediately after application.)
  • B Excellent (e.g.: No breakup of the cosmetic after 4 hours compared to the state immediately after application, but 1 or 2 individuals noted breakup of the cosmetic after 8 hours compared to the state immediately after application.)
  • the comfortable finish was evaluated on the following scale.
  • A Very excellent (e.g.: No blocking feel, absolutely no resistance felt to any changes in facial expression including blinking.)
  • Evaluation of the moisture resistance and sweat-proof function was carried out by confirming that the film was adequately anchored to the eyelids 30 minutes after application of the cosmetic, and then using flowing tap water at 12°C to 20°C for rinsing while gently rubbing for 5 seconds with the index and middle fingers of the right hand, with scoring on the following scale.
  • A Very excellent (e.g.: No breakup of the cosmetic compared to the state immediately after application.)
  • the viscosity of the composition after shaking can be measured using a viscometer (such as a Rheolab QC (Anton Paar)), as the shear viscosity under conditions of 100 rpm and 25°C.
  • a viscometer such as a Rheolab QC (Anton Paar)
  • Examples 1 to 9 had excellent evaluations of A or B not only for luminosity/intense payoff and sweat-proof function, but also for long-lasting effect and comfortable finish.
  • Comparative Examples 1 to 3 had inferior luminosity/intense payoff, while Comparative Examples 1 to 3 had inferior sweat-proof functions.
  • the stability of Examples 1 to 9 also tended to be superior to that of Comparative Examples 1 to 3.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant a) un pigment nacré, b) un agent filmogène à base de silicium, c) un tensioactif de silicone ayant un poids moléculaire moyen en poids de 50 000 ou moins et une valeur HLB de 1 à 8, d) une argile minérale organiquement modifiée et e) un composant huileux, la teneur du pigment nacré étant de 3 à 50 % en masse sur la base de la masse totale de la composition cosmétique.
PCT/EP2021/050737 2021-01-14 2021-01-14 Composition cosmétique liquide WO2022152386A1 (fr)

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2004018415A (ja) 2002-06-13 2004-01-22 Shiseido Co Ltd 油中水型乳化化粧料
JP2012502018A (ja) 2008-09-04 2012-01-26 ロレアル カルボシロキサンデンドリマー単位を含むポリマーを含有する化粧料組成物
JP2018537487A (ja) 2015-12-17 2018-12-20 ロレアル 疎水化被覆された顔料および高含有量の水相を含む保湿効果を有する油中水型エマルション
EP3449902A1 (fr) * 2016-04-28 2019-03-06 Shiseido Company Ltd. Produit cosmétique à émulsion de type eau-dans-l'huile
JP2019135218A (ja) 2018-02-05 2019-08-15 株式会社 資生堂 油性化粧料及びその製造方法
JP2020097532A (ja) 2018-12-17 2020-06-25 花王株式会社 油中アルコール型乳化組成物

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2004018415A (ja) 2002-06-13 2004-01-22 Shiseido Co Ltd 油中水型乳化化粧料
JP2012502018A (ja) 2008-09-04 2012-01-26 ロレアル カルボシロキサンデンドリマー単位を含むポリマーを含有する化粧料組成物
JP2018537487A (ja) 2015-12-17 2018-12-20 ロレアル 疎水化被覆された顔料および高含有量の水相を含む保湿効果を有する油中水型エマルション
EP3449902A1 (fr) * 2016-04-28 2019-03-06 Shiseido Company Ltd. Produit cosmétique à émulsion de type eau-dans-l'huile
JP2019135218A (ja) 2018-02-05 2019-08-15 株式会社 資生堂 油性化粧料及びその製造方法
JP2020097532A (ja) 2018-12-17 2020-06-25 花王株式会社 油中アルコール型乳化組成物

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