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WO2021255255A1 - Composition comprenant un polyol, un ester de polyglycérol, un sel d'acide hyaluronique et un polymère hydrophile spécifique - Google Patents

Composition comprenant un polyol, un ester de polyglycérol, un sel d'acide hyaluronique et un polymère hydrophile spécifique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021255255A1
WO2021255255A1 PCT/EP2021/066650 EP2021066650W WO2021255255A1 WO 2021255255 A1 WO2021255255 A1 WO 2021255255A1 EP 2021066650 W EP2021066650 W EP 2021066650W WO 2021255255 A1 WO2021255255 A1 WO 2021255255A1
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composition
weight
acid
fatty acid
composition according
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PCT/EP2021/066650
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English (en)
Inventor
Gilles Guerin
Carole Guiramand
Géraldine Lerebour
Emmanuelle Portois
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L'oreal
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Priority claimed from FR2006452A external-priority patent/FR3111546B1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2021255255A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021255255A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • TITLE Composition comprising a polyol, a polyglycerol ester, a hyaluronic acid salt and a specific hydrophilic polymer
  • the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising a polyol, a polyglycerol ester, a hyaluronic acid salt and a specific hydrophilic polymer, and possibly comprising a polysaccharide comprising rhamnose.
  • the skin is a tissue in which cells are contiguous and firmly attached to each other. Skin tissue forms an external coating comprising sebaceous or sudoriferous glands, and hair follicles.
  • the skin, and particularly the scalp, are continuously renewed epithelia. Renewal, or desquamation, is a coordinated and finely regulated process leading to the elimination of surface cells, insensibly and invisibly.
  • the human skin is composed of two compartments, namely a surface compartment (the epidermis) and a deep compartment (the dermis).
  • the epidermis is conventionally divided into a base layer of keratinocytes forming a germinative layer of the epidermis, a layer called the spinous layer composed of several layers of polyhedric cells arranged on the germinative layers, one to three layers called the stratum granulosum composed of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyalin grains and finally, a set of upper layers called corneal layers (or stratum corneum), composed of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation called corneocytes.
  • corneal layers or stratum corneum
  • Corneocytes are anucleate cells composed principally of a fibrous material containing cytokeratins, surrounded by a corneal envelope. There is permanent production of new keratinocytes to compensate for the continuous loss of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum according to a mechanism called desquamation.
  • fragility of the skin barrier can occur in the presence of external aggression such as irritants (detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducing agents, concentrated solvents, noxious gases or fumes), mechanical actions (friction, shocks, abrasion, surface tearing, projection of dust, particles, shaving or epilation), thermal or climatic unbalances (cold, dryness, radiation), xenobiotic unbalances (undesirable micro-organisms, allergens) or internal aggressions of the psychological stress type.
  • irritants detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducing agents, concentrated solvents, noxious gases or fumes
  • mechanical actions frequency, shocks, abrasion, surface tearing, projection of dust, particles, shaving or epilation
  • thermal or climatic unbalances cold, dryness, radiation
  • xenobiotic unbalances undesirable micro-organisms, allergens
  • One of the critical steps in the terminal differentiation process of the stratum corneum is cross-linking of proteic precursors of the cornified envelope. This phenomenon plays an essential role in the development and maintenance of skin cohesion and physical properties of the skin such as the barrier function.
  • the cornified envelope is an essential component of corneocytes.
  • Maturing of the cornified envelope from the deep layers to surface layers of the stratum corneum can be characterized by morphological and biophysical or mechanical parameters.
  • Hydrating agents conventionally used such as moisturizers, hydrating polymers or fatty bodies such as petroleum jelly, temporarily modify the surface properties of the skin.
  • These active agents can increase the mechanical suppleness of the stratum corneum, increase its state of hydration and/or improve the microrelief of the skin by the formation of a surface film on the skin. In general, these effects are not remanent in time and only last for a few hours. Furthermore, after the skin has been cleaned, these active agents are eliminated and the effect of increased mechanical suppleness of the skin, improved skin texture or optical properties of the skin disappear.
  • compositions comprising an aqueous gel based on sodium hyaluronate and on a polymer comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid patterns.
  • compositions improving the hydration condition of the skin, particularly dry or old skins, avoiding tightness and the feeling of discomfort during their application on the skin.
  • compositions that confer a plumping effect and/or a bouncy appearance on the skin are also a need for compositions that confer a plumping effect and/or a bouncy appearance on the skin.
  • Boncy appearance means an effect of remodelling the skin. The skin is smoother and has a more fleshy appearance, that remains even after pressing on the skin with a finger.
  • compositions comprising a gel based on sodium hyaluronate and a polymer comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid patterns which confer improved mechanical properties on the skin, in particular which confer a plumbing effect and/or a rebounded appearance on the skin, while remaining stable.
  • the inventors have now discovered that the combination of a polyol and of a specific polyglycerol ester, in an aqueous composition comprising hyaluronic acid or one of its salts and a specific hydrophilic polymer, allows obtaining a stable composition that satisfactorily softens the skin and confers a plumbing effect and a rebounded appearance thereon.
  • the combination of a polyol and of a specific polyglycerol ester, in a gel- type composition comprising hyaluronic acid or one of its salts and a polymer comprising 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid patterns allows obtaining a stable gel that improves the mechanical properties of the skin, while preserving a good cosmeticity.
  • an object of the present invention is a composition
  • a composition comprising the following, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: at least one polyol, hyaluronic acid and/or one of its salts, between 2.1% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, of at least one fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol patterns, between 0.01% and 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, of at least one hydrophilic polymer selected from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and optionally, at least one polysaccharide comprising rhamnose.
  • Another object of the present invention is a composition
  • a composition comprising the following, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: at least one polyol, hyaluronic acid and/or one of its salts, between 2.1% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, of at least one fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol patterns, between 0.01% and 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, of at least one hydrophilic polymer selected from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and optionally, at least one polysaccharide comprising rhamnose.
  • Another object of the present invention is a composition
  • a composition comprising the following, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: at least one polyol, hyaluronic acid and/or one of its salts, between 2.1% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, of at least one fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 4 or 10 glycerol patterns, between 0.01% and 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, of at least one hydrophilic polymer selected from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and optionally, at least one polysaccharide comprising rhamnose.
  • composition according to the invention is preferably cosmetic.
  • “Physiologically acceptable” means a medium compatible with keratin materials.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic care method of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising application of a composition according to the invention on said keratin materials.
  • Another purpose of this invention is cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention to make the skin more supple, particularly the stratum corneum.
  • a second embodiment of the present invention is limited and specifically relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising the following, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: at least one polyol, hyaluronic acid and/or one of its salts, between 2.1% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, of at least one fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol patterns, at least one hydrophilic polymer selected from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, wherein the weight ratio between the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2- methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol patterns is strictly greater than 0.04, and optionally, at least one polysaccharide comprising rhamnose.
  • composition according to the invention comprises between 0.01% and 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, of at least one hydrophilic polymer selected from homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts.
  • the polymers AMPS® (Lubrizol monomer) that are used in accordance with the invention may be partially or completely neutralized by a mineral base (such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethyl propanediol, N-methylglucamine or basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, or mixtures of these compounds. In general, they are neutralized.
  • a mineral base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia
  • organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethyl propanediol, N-methylglucamine or basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, or mixtures of these compounds. In general, they are neutralized.
  • neutralized is intended to refer to polymers that have been neutralized completely or almost completely, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%
  • the polymers AMPS® Lubrizol monomer
  • the polymers AMPS® have a number average molecular mass ranging from 1 ,000 to 20,000,000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000, and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1 ,500,000 g/mol.
  • the cross-linking agents may be chosen from the olefinically-polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for cross-linking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
  • cross-linking agents mention may be made of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, di(meth)acrylate ethylene glycol, di(meth)acrylate tetraethylene glycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene-bis- acrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols as well as the
  • the degree of cross-linking generally ranges from 0.01% to 10% in moles, and more particularly from 0.2% to 2% in moles, relative to the polymer.
  • the more particularly preferred AMPS® homopolymers comprise patterns with the following general formula (I) randomly distributed :
  • X + designates a proton, an alkaline metal cation, an alkaline-earth cation or the ammonium ion, at most 10% mol of X + cations may consist of H + protons; and cross-linking agents originating from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds.
  • the homopolymers that are used, and more particularly preferred, according to the invention comprise from 90 to 99.9% by weight, and preferably from 98 to 99.5% by weight of pattens with the formula (I), and from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight of cross-linking patterns, the weight proportions being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.
  • polymers of this type mention may be made in particular of the cross-linked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, marketed by the company Clariant under the tradename Hostacerin AMPS® (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide).
  • the polymer AMPS® according to the invention is present in a content of active material ranging from 0.05 to 0.15% by weight, more preferably from 0.08 to 0.12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises hyaluronic acid, and/or one of its salts.
  • Hyaluronic acid is a non-sulfated linear glycosaminoglycan composed by repetitive units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.
  • the hyaluronic acid preferably has a number average molecular weight ranging from 500 Da to 10 MDa, and more particularly ranging from 2 KDa to 2 MDa.
  • hyaluronic acid that is suitable for the present invention
  • animal-based hyaluronic acids whether cross-linked or not, such as those marketed under the name Hylaform® by the company Genzyme, or genetic- based hyaluronic acids including those intended for superficial, periorbital or perioral wrinkles, such as those marketed under the name Restylane Fine Lines® by the laboratory Q-Med, or intended for deep wrinkles, lip-chin and oval depressions of the face, such as those marketed under the names Perlane® and Restylane Sub-Q® by the laboratory Q- Med.
  • a hyaluronic acid that is suitable for the present invention
  • hyaluronic acid salts mention may be made in particular of sodium alts, potassium salts, zinc salts, silver salts, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, as examples of hyaluronic acid salts, mention may be made of potassium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronate, preferably sodium hyaluronate. In the context of the invention, it is also possible to consider the sodium hyaluronate with a 1 ,100.000 Daltons molecular weight marketed by the company Soliance under the name Cristalhyal®
  • the hyaluronic acid of the composition according to the invention is present in salified form, preferably in the form of sodium hyaluronate.
  • the hyaluronic acid and/or one of its salts is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight.
  • Fattv acid and polyqlycerol ester comprisinq 2 to 10 qlycerol patterns
  • composition according to the invention also comprises between 2.1% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition of at least one fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol patterns.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester is formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 glycerol patterns.
  • the polyglycerol ester according to the invention results from esterification of at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid and a polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol patterns.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester is a mono- or diester, and preferably a mono-ester.
  • polyglycerol designates glyceryl polymers that are linear chains of 2 to 10 glycerol units.
  • esters that are more particularly considered according to the present invention are esters resulting from the esterification of polyglycerol and C10-C18 carboxylic acid(s), preferably C10, C12 or C18 carboxylic acid(s), such as capric, lauric, oleic, stearic, isostearic or myristic acids.
  • the carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
  • it is a linear monocarboxylic acid.
  • they are derived from the esterification of at least one hydroxyl function of a polyglycerol by a C10-C18, preferably C10, C12 or C18 carboxylic acid.
  • esters suitable for this invention can be derived from esterification of a polyglycerol by one or several identical or different carboxylic acids. It may be a hydroxylated mono-ester, a hydroxylated di-ester, a hydroxylated tri ester, or a mixture thereof.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester is chosen from among polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 5 to 9 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl monooleate comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 5 to 9 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 5 to 9 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl monomyristate comprising 5 to 9 glycerol patterns, ester of fatty acid comprising 10 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 4 glycerol patterns, ester of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 10 glycerol patterns and esters of fatty acid comprising 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 2 glycerol patterns, and mixtures thereof.
  • the ester of fatty acid comprising 10 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 4 glycerol patterns is formed of (i) at least one fatty acid comprising an alkyl or an alkenyl chain containing 10 carbon atoms (also called C10 fatty acid), and (ii) 4 glycerol patterns.
  • the C10 fatty acid is saturated, and contains a linear alkyl chain.
  • the C10 fatty acid is capric acid.
  • the ester of fatty acid comprising 10 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 4 glycerol patterns is polyglyceryl monocaprate comprising 4 glycerol patterns, i.e., polyglyceryl-4 monocaprate.
  • the ester of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 10 glycerol patterns is formed of (i) at least one fatty acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 12 carbon atoms (also called C12 fatty acid), and (ii) 10 glycerol patterns.
  • the C12 fatty acid is saturated, and contains a linear alkyl chain.
  • the C12 fatty acid is lauric acid.
  • the ester of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 10 glycerol patterns is polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 10 glycerol patterns, i.e. polyglyceryl-10 monolaurate.
  • the ester of fatty acid comprising 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 2 glycerol patterns is formed of (i) at least one fatty acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 18 carbon atoms (also called C18 fatty acid), and (ii) 2 glycerol patterns.
  • the C18 fatty acid is unsaturated, and contains a linear alkyl chain.
  • the C18 fatty acid is oleic acid.
  • the ester of fatty acid comprising 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 2 glycerol patterns is polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 2 glycerol patterns, i.e. polyglyceryl-2-monooleate.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester is chosen from among polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 5 to 6 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl monooleate comprising from 5 to 6 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 5 to 6 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 5 to 6 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl monomyristate comprising 5 to 6 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl monocaprate comprising 4 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 10 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 2 glycerol patterns, and mixtures thereof.
  • a commercial product mostly based on polyglyceryl-5 laurate or PG-5 laurate is available under the tradename SUNSOFT A-121 E-C® by the company Taiyo Kagaku.
  • a commercial product mostly based on polyglyceryl-6 laurate or PG-6 laurate is available under the tradename DERMOFEEL G 6 L by the company Dr Straetmans.
  • a commercial product mostly based on polyglyceryl-4 monocaprate or PG-4 caprate is available under the tradename TEGOSOFT PC 41 by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.
  • a commercial product mostly based on polyglyceryl-2 monooleate or PG-2 oleate is available under the tradename SUNSOFT Q-17D(G)-C by the company TAIYO KAGAKU.
  • a commercial product mostly based on polyglyceryl-10 monolaurate or PG-10 laurate is available under the tradename DERMOFEEL G 10 L by the company Dr Straetmans.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2.1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2.5% to 5.5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 3% to 5.5% by weight, preferably from 3.5% to 5% by weight.
  • the weight ratio between the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2- methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol patterns is less than 0.04 (and of course non-zero).
  • it is comprised between 0.01 and 0.035, preferably comprised between 0.015 and 0.03.
  • the composition according to the invention also comprises between 2.1% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition of at least one fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol patterns.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester is formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and 5 to 9 glycerol patterns, preferably from 5 to 6 glycerol patterns.
  • the polyglycerol ester according to the invention results from esterification of at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid and a polyglycerol comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol patterns.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester is a mono- or diester, and preferably a mono-ester.
  • polyglycerol designates glyceryl polymers that are linear chains of 5 to 9, and preferably 5 to 6 glycerol units.
  • esters that are more particularly considered according to the present invention are esters resulting from the esterification of polyglycerol and C10-C18, preferably C12 to C16, preferably C12 carboxylic acid(s), such as lauric, oleic, stearic, isostearic or myristic acids.
  • the carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
  • it is a linear monocarboxylic acid.
  • they are derived from the esterification of at least one hydroxyl function of a polyglycerol by a C10-C18, preferably C12 to C16, and more particularly C12 carboxylic acid.
  • esters suitable for this invention can be derived from esterification of a polyglycerol by one or several identical or different carboxylic acids. It may be a hydroxylated mono-ester, a hydroxylated di-ester, a hydroxylated tri ester, or a mixture thereof.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester is chosen from among polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 5 to 9 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl monooleate comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 5 to 9 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 5 to 9 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl monomyristate comprising 5 to 9 glycerol patterns, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester is chosen from among polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 5 to 6 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl monooleate comprising from 5 to 6 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 5 to 6 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 5 to 6 glycerol patterns, polyglyceryl monomyristate comprising 5 to 6 glycerol patterns, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester has an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value equal to between 10 and 13.
  • composition according to the invention comprises a fatty acid and polyglycerol ester that is a polyglyceryl monolaurate with 5 to 6 glycerol patterns, i.e. polyglyceryl-5 laurate or polyglyceryl-6 laurate.
  • a commercial product mostly based on polyglyceryl-5 laurate or PG-5 laurate is available under the tradename SUNSOFT A-121 E-C® by the company Taiyo Kagaku.
  • a commercial product mostly based on polyglyceryl-6 laurate or PG-6 laurate is available under the tradename DERMOFEEL G 6 L by the company Dr Straetmans.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2.1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2.5% to 5.5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 3% to 5.5% by weight, preferably from 3.5% to 5% by weight.
  • the weight ratio between the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2- methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol patterns is less than 0.04 (and of course non-zero).
  • it is comprised between 0.01 and 0.035, preferably comprised between 0.015 and 0.03.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises between 2.1% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition of at least one fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 4 or 10 glycerol patterns.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester may comprise 2 to 4 glycerol patterns. Alternatively, it may comprise 10 glycerol patterns.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester is formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and 2 to 4 or 10 glycerol patterns.
  • the polyglycerol ester according to the invention results from esterification of at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid and a polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 4 or 10 glycerol patterns.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester is a mono- or diester, and preferably a mono-ester.
  • polyglycerol designates glyceryl polymers that are linear chains of 2 to 4 or 10, preferably 2, 3, 4 or 10 glycerol patterns.
  • the esters that are more particularly considered according to the present invention are esters resulting from the esterification of polyglycerol and C10-C18 carboxylic acid(s), preferably C10, C12 or C18 carboxylic acid(s), such as capric, lauric, oleic, stearic, isostearic or myristic acids.
  • the carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
  • it is a linear monocarboxylic acid.
  • they are derived from the esterification of at least one hydroxyl function of a polyglycerol by a C10-C18, preferably C10, C12 or C18 carboxylic acid.
  • esters suitable for this invention can be derived from esterification of a polyglycerol by one or several identical or different carboxylic acids. It may be a hydroxylated mono-ester, a hydroxylated di-ester, a hydroxylated tri ester, or a mixture thereof.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester is chosen from among ester of fatty acid comprising 10 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 4 glycerol patterns, ester of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 10 glycerol patterns and esters of fatty acid comprising 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 2 glycerol patterns.
  • the ester of fatty acid comprising 10 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 4 glycerol patterns is formed of (i) at least one fatty acid comprising an alkyl or an alkenyl chain containing 10 carbon atoms (also called C10 fatty acid), and (ii) 4 glycerol patterns.
  • the C10 fatty acid is saturated, and contains a linear alkyl chain.
  • the C10 fatty acid is capric acid.
  • the ester of fatty acid comprising 10 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 4 glycerol patterns is polyglyceryl monocaprate comprising 4 glycerol patterns, i.e., polyglyceryl -4 monocaprate.
  • the ester of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 10 glycerol patterns is formed of (i) at least one fatty acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 12 carbon atoms (also called C12 fatty acid), and (ii) 10 glycerol patterns.
  • the C12 fatty acid is saturated, and contains a linear alkyl chain.
  • the C12 fatty acid is lauric acid.
  • the ester of fatty acid comprising 12 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 10 glycerol patterns is polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 10 glycerol patterns, i.e. polyglyceryl-10 monolaurate.
  • the ester of fatty acid comprising 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 2 glycerol patterns is formed of (i) at least one fatty acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 18 carbon atoms (also called C18 fatty acid), and (ii) 2 glycerol patterns.
  • the C18 fatty acid is unsaturated, and contains a linear alkyl chain.
  • the C18 fatty acid is oleic acid.
  • the ester of fatty acid comprising 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerol comprising 2 glycerol patterns is polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 2 glycerol patterns, i.e. polyglyceryl-2-monooleate.
  • a commercial product mostly based on polyglyceryl-4 monocaprate or PG-4 caprate is available under the tradename TEGOSOFT PC 41 by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.
  • a commercial product mostly based on polyglyceryl-2 monooleate or PG-2 oleate is available under the tradename SUNSOFT Q-17D(G)-C by the company TAIYO KAGAKU.
  • a commercial product mostly based on polyglyceryl-10 monolaurate or PG-10 laurate is available under the tradename DERMOFEEL G 10 L by the company Dr Straetmans.
  • the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2.1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2.5% to 5.5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 3% to 5.5% by weight, preferably from 3.5% to 5% by weight.
  • the weight ratio between the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2- methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 4 or 10 glycerol patterns is less than 0.04 (and of course non-zero).
  • it is comprised between 0.01 and 0.035, preferably comprised between 0.015 and 0.03.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises at least one polyol.
  • polyol means a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and carrying at least two hydroxy groups.
  • the polyols used in this invention can have an average molecular mass by weight of less than or equal to 1 ,000, and preferably between 90 and 500.
  • the polyol can be a natural or synthetic polyol.
  • the polyol can have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
  • This polyol can be selected from glycerin and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof.
  • the polyol can be selected from the group composed of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, 1 ,5-pentanediol, octane 1 ,2-diol, polyethyleneglycols, particularly having from 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and sugars such as sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyol is glycerine.
  • Said polyol(s) can be present in a quantity ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 15% by weight.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium.
  • composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous medium comprising water and possibly a water-soluble organic solvent, at 25°C, chosen for example among linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol, propanol, butanol; and mixtures thereof.
  • a water-soluble organic solvent at 25°C, chosen for example among linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol, propanol, butanol; and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition generally comprises from 10 to 95% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 40 to 90%.
  • the amount of organic solvents can range for example from 0 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, still better from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention further comprises an oily phase.
  • the composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester, as surfactant.
  • the fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester present in the composition according to the invention is preferably a C16-C22 fatty acid ester comprising 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units.
  • the fatty chain of esters can be chosen particularly among the stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl, cetyl patterns and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl, and preferably a stearyl chain.
  • the number of ethylene oxide units can vary from 8 to 100, preferably from 10 to 80, and even better from 10 to 50. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, this number can vary from 20 to 40.
  • fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters mention may be made of the mixture of methylglucose monoester and diester and of stearic acid comprising 20 ethylene oxide units, such as the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by Amerchol.
  • the fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 1 % by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight.
  • the composition according to the invention preferably also comprises at least one oily phase.
  • this oily phase preferably contains at least one oil, particularly a cosmetic oil. It can further contain other fats.
  • Oil it should be understood a non-aqueous compound, liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1 .013x10 5 Pa), not water-miscible.
  • oils suitable for use in the composition according to the invention mention may be made for example of:
  • hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol "810", “812" and “818” by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
  • esters and synthetic esters in particular fatty acids, such as oils having formulas R1 COOR2 and R1 OR2 wherein R1 is the remainder of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl-malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, de
  • silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), optionally volatile with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, particularly cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl pendant or silicon chain-end groups, groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; or
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise other fatty substances in the oily phase.
  • this fatty substance is selected from fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, the mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2- hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol.
  • the oily phase quantity may range from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.8 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polysaccharide comprising rhamnose.
  • the polysaccharide according to the invention comprises rhamnose varying from 10% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of polysaccharide, preferably from 20% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight.
  • the polysaccharide according to the invention is not sulfated.
  • “Not sulfated” means that the sulfation ratio of the polysaccharide is less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight relative to the weight of polysaccharide. Preferably, the sulfation ratio is zero.
  • the polysaccharide according to the invention is such that the repetitive elements forming it mostly contain rhamnose.
  • the repetitive elements comprise at least components with general formula I:
  • Rh is a rhamnose molecule
  • Rh * is a rhamnose molecule fixed in a branched manner
  • O is a molecule of a hexosidic or pentosidic sugar
  • U is a molecule of uronic acid
  • n is between 1 and 100, and preferably between 5 and 65.
  • the sugar O may in particular be chosen from among fucose, galactose, ribose, arabinose, xylose and mannose.
  • Uronic acid U means any hexose oxidized on its primary alcohol function into carboxylic acid, and particularly glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid, mannuronic acid or iduronic acid.
  • the branched rhamnose molecule can be fixed by an osidic bond from its carbon 1 on a free carbon of one among the sugar molecule O or uronic acid molecule U or rhamnose molecule Rh of the saccharidic chain, particularly on carbons 2 or 3.
  • repetitive elements can be composed in particular by the sequence with general formula II:
  • Rh is a rhamnose molecule
  • O is a hexosidic or pentosidic sugar molecule
  • U is a uronic acid molecule
  • the rhamnose branch onto the ose O consists of an osidic bond (1®2) or (1®3).
  • the sugar O is galactose and the uronic acid U is glucuronic acid.
  • the sequence has a chain containing 3 rhamnose molecules, one of which is branched, 2 galactose molecules and one glucuronic acid molecule.
  • n represents value such that this polysaccharide has a molecular weight of the order of 50,000 daltons. It can be obtained from Klebsiella type bacteria cultures, particularly Klebsiella pneumoniae and particularly the 1-714 strain (deposed at CNCM - Collection Nationale de Culture de Microorganismes (National Microorganisms Culture Collection) - as number 1-714) according to a method described below.
  • this polysaccharide has the rhamnose branch on galactose in position V. It is found that this polysaccharide is composed particularly of the following repetitive unit: ®4)- a-L-Rhap(1®3)- b-0-Q8 ⁇ r(1®2)- a-L-Rhap(1®4)- b-0-QIorA(1®3)- [a-L-Rhap(1®2)]- a-D-Galp(1®.
  • the repetitive elements can be composed in particular by the sequence with general formula III:
  • Rh is a rhamnose molecule
  • O is a hexosidic or pentosidic sugar molecule
  • U is a uronic acid molecule
  • rhamnose is branched onto the rhamnose by an osidic bond (1®3).
  • the sugar O is glucose and the uronic acid U is glucuronic acid, preferably a chain containing 3 rhamnose molecules including one branched molecule, one glucose molecule and one glucuronic acid molecule.
  • Such a polysaccharide can be obtained in particular according to the method described below from a culture of Klebsiella planticola type bacteria, particularly the I-2743 strain (deposited at CNCM as number I-2743).
  • a polysaccharide has the rhamnose branch on the rhamnose in position III. It is found that this polysaccharide is composed more particularly of the following repetitive unit: 3)- b-L- Rhap(1 4)- b-D- Glcp(1 2)- [a-L- Rhap(1 3)]- a-L-Rhap(1 4)- a-D-GlcpA(1 .
  • the polysaccharides according to the invention can be of bacterial or vegetable origin. They can be obtained by classical polysaccharide production techniques (chemical synthesis, enzymatic extraction from exopolysaccharides). According to one advantageous embodiment, the polysaccharides are exopolysaccharides obtained by fermentation of a bacterial strain producing them, of the encapsulated bacteria type, according to a production method like that described in detail in patent FR264522.
  • This method is defined in that a Klebsiella type bacteria strain is put into culture in a nutrient medium comprising a carbon source, a preferential nitrogen source and appropriate mineral salts, at a pH of about 6 to 8, at a temperature of about 30 to 35 °C, while stirring and under aeration, for 4 to 12 days.
  • the carbon/nitrogen ratio is advantageously more than 5 so as to favor secretion of the polysaccharide.
  • the polysaccharide can then be isolated by submitting the fermentation medium to heat treatment at about 70-120°C for about 10 minutes to 1 hour, then by separating it, for example by centrifuging it cold.
  • the exopolysaccharides and cellular polysaccharides are all contained in the clear float phase. If necessary, the polysaccharides can be purified by precipitation by the addition of a non solvent organic liquid such as acetone or a lower alcohol such as ethanol or propanol, and separated by filtration or centrifuging before being dried.
  • the isolated polysaccharides can thus be easily incorporated into a composition, as is or in hydrolyzed form.
  • the hydrolysis can be done before drying using known methods such as acid hydrolysis. It can be done using a frequently used proton donor such as hydrochloric acid, at a temperature varying between 50 and 100°C for between 30 minutes and 4 hours, depending on the required size of the fractions.
  • the oligosaccharidic fractions thus obtained can be recovered and purified if necessary, using classical methods.
  • This protocol can be done using bacterial strains producing exopolysaccharides rich in rhamnose, and particularly encapsulated bacteria.
  • a strain of Klebsiella bacteria will be used, preferably Klebsiella pneumoniae or Klebsiella planticola.
  • the repetitive unit of the polysaccharide (exopolysaccharide) according to the invention is that produced by Klebsiella pneumoniae 1-714 and called Rhamnosoft®:
  • the composition of Rhamnosoft® corresponds to a polymer with a branched structure, with a molecular weight of the order of 50,000 daltons, and having a saccharidic sequence comprising three molecules of rhamnose (I, III, VI), two molecules of galactose (II, V) and one molecule of glucuronic acid (IV). Therefore rhamnose makes up 50% of the polysaccharide.
  • the polysaccharide has a rhamnose VI branch on the galactose in position V.
  • the structure of the repetition unit is:
  • the polysaccharide according to the invention is used in an aqueous solution at 2.5% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the solution.
  • a polysaccharide is marketed particularly under the name Rhamnosoft® HP 1.5P by Solabia.
  • the polysaccharide may be present in the composition according to the invention with a dry matter content ranging from 0.01% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.3% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics, such as in particular charges, dyes, UV filters, preservatives, and/or active ingredients.
  • a UV filter mention may be made of organic or mineral UV filters, well known to those skilled in the art.
  • dyes mention may be made of the dyes chosen from water-soluble colorants, powdery dyes such as pigments, nacres and glitters well know to those skilled in the art.
  • vitamin A retinol
  • vitamin C the C-glycosides derivatives and active ingedients for the care of oily skins.
  • the C-glycosides derivatives may be selected from he compounds with the following general formula:
  • R designates a C 1 -C 4 , in particular C 1 -C 2 , non-substituted linear alkyl radical, in particular methyl:
  • S represents a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D- glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
  • X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH 2 )-, and preferably a -
  • C-glycosides derivatives More specifically suitable for the invention, mention may particularly be made of the following compounds: C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one; C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane; 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane; 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane; 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane; 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane; 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopy
  • C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane may advantageously be implemented for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.
  • a C-glycoside derivative that is suitable for the invention may advantageously consist of hydroxypropyl-tetrahydropyrantriol also called C- beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, supplied in particular in a 30 weight% solution in a water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40) by CHIMEX under the name MEXORYL SBB®.
  • the salts of the C-glycoside derivatives that are suitable for the invention may comprise conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.
  • salts of mineral acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acids, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid.
  • organic acids salts may include one or several carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid group(s). They can consist of linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or indeed aromatic acids. These acids can further include one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention can particularly be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.
  • the acceptable solvates for the compounds described above comprise conventional solvates such as those formed during the final preparation step of said compounds due to the presence of solvents.
  • solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol.
  • a C-glycoside derivative that is suitable to the invention may be obtained in particular through the synthesis method described in the document W002/051828.
  • active ingredients for the care of oily skins mention may be made preferably to those selected in particular from desquamating and/or antimicrobial agents.
  • HEP-0 852 949 the derivatives of 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid
  • TRILON M the derivatives of glycine- type alpha amino acids (such as those described in EP-0 852 949, as well as sodium methylglycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the tradename TRILON M)
  • honey the derivatives of sugar such as 0-octanoy1 -6-D-maltose and N-acetylglucosamine.
  • the antimicrobial agents that could be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably selected from 2,4,4’-trichloro-2’-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4’-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine acid, lipo
  • the composition of the invention comprises a Bifidobacterium extract.
  • composition according to the invention may be contained directly within a container, or indirectly.
  • the composition may be disposed over any suitable medium.
  • this medium is capable of absorbing the composition (impregnated medium), such as a towelette ; a fibrous makeup remover pad, woven or unwoven; a felt; cotton wool; a flocked film; or a sponge.
  • the second embodiment of the present invention is limited: it specifically relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: at least one polyol, hyaluronic acid and/or one of its salts, between 2.1% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, of at least one fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol patterns, at least one hydrophilic polymer selected from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and optionally, at least one polysaccharide comprising rhamnose, wherein the weight ratio between the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2- methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol patterns, is strictly greater than 0.04 and preferably less than 0.09, and fulfills the following conditions: when the weight ratio between the homopolymer of 2-acryl
  • the shearing of a mixing may be determined as follows:
  • the mixing is carried out after putting the ingredients in a beaker vessel at room temperature during 10 minutes.
  • the weight ratio between the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol patterns is strictly greater than 0.04 and less than 0.08, preferably less than 0.07, preferably less than or equal to 0.06.
  • the weight ratio between the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2- methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol patterns is strictly greater than 0.04 and less or equal to 0.05, then the mixing of the ingredients under a shearing over 8000 s -1 is made using a rotor-stator.
  • a rotor-stator is sold by Rayneri under the name Turbotest VMI.
  • the weight ratio between the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2- methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol patterns is strictly greater than 0.05 and preferably less than 0.09, preferably less than 0.08, preferably less than 0.07, preferably less than or equal to 0.06, then the mixing of the ingredients under a shearing below 8000 s -1 is made by gentle mixing, preferably using Rayneri pale.
  • the second embodiment of the present invention also relates to a process for obtaining such a composition, comprising the following steps: when the weight ratio between the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol patterns, is strictly greater than 0.04 and less than or equal to 0.05, then the process comprises a step of mixing the ingredients under a shearing over 8000 s -1 , and obtaining the composition, or when the weight ratio between the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol patterns, is strictly greater than 0.05 and preferably less than 0.09, then the process comprises a step of mixing the ingredients under a shearing below 8000 s -1 , and obtaining the composition.
  • the hydrophilic polymer selected from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts is present in a content comprised between 0.2% and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, preferably between 0.23 and 0.4% by weight, preferably between 0.24 and 0.35% by weight.
  • polyol, hyaluronic acid and/or one of its salts, the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol patterns, the hydrophilic polymer selected from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and the polysaccharide comprising rhamnose, is applicable to this second embodiment.
  • the cosmetic composition according to this invention (first and second embodiments) can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional components using a conventional method.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for the care of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention.
  • composition according to the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention to make the skin more supple, for example the stratum corneum.
  • the softening effect of the skin confers a plumbing effect and/or a rebounded appearance on the latter.
  • the skin is smoother and has a more fleshy appearance, that remains even after pressing on the skin with a finger. This allows obtaining surface effects, in particular on cutaneous microreliefs, in particular smoothing wrinkles and fine lines; and/or hydrating the skin.
  • the pressure is the atmospheric pressure.
  • quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are given as a % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the tables hereinbelow, according to the following protocol:
  • phase A1 The ingredients of the phase A1 are mixed and heated up to 80°C; then, the ingredients of the phase A2 are added, to obtain a phase A.
  • the ingredients of the phase B are mixed and then added onto the phase A at room temperature (20°C).
  • the pH is set with the phase C.
  • the ingredients of the phase D are added onto the obtained mixture.
  • the stability of the compositions over time has been assessed at different temperatures.
  • the stability is studied over time by observing the evolution of the composition with regards to its macroscopic aspect, its microscopic aspect, the evolution of the values of the viscosity and of the pH, at different temperatures such as room temperature (TA), 4°C, 45°C.
  • TA room temperature
  • 4°C 45°C.
  • a composition is stable if no change in its aspect is observed after at least 24 h.
  • the instability of the compositions that are not compliant with the invention is manifested through a creaming phenomenon, that is to say a phase separation. It can be observed macroscopically with the naked eye, by a phase separation phenomenon revealing a translucent base (aged formula) in a 30mL glass sample bottle or a phase separation (2 transparent and non-miscible phases).
  • compositions are analyzed in vivo using the Torque meter ® .
  • the protocol is as follows:
  • the Torque meter ® is a non-invasive device.
  • the measuring head of the DTM is composed by a 20 mm diameter movable central disk and a fixed circular plate. This device is placed on the skin through a fixed concentric double-sided adhesive tape.
  • the angle of rotation of the central disk is measured by an angular sensor with a very high resolution.
  • the central disk pivots. A torsion load equal to an angle Ue is then applied to the skin area between the mobile central disk and the fixed peripheral ring (fast deformation). The rotation angle then continues to rise at a lower speed by an angle Uv.
  • the skin After removing the torsion torque, the skin returns to its initial state in two steps, fast (deformation Ur) and slow back to the origin.
  • the precise measurement zones are identified using a circular-shaped mask.
  • the measured parameters are (Ue, Uv, Ur).
  • Ue represents the extensibility of the skin
  • Uv represents the delayed extensibility of the skin
  • Ur represents the tonicity of the skin.
  • Example 1 Preparation of a comparative reference composition
  • the comparative reference composition is prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the following table, using the protocol described above.
  • Example 2 Preparation of compositions accordinq to the invention (C1 to C4) The following compositions C1 to C4 were prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the following table, using the protocol described above: [Table 2]
  • the weight ratios between the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol patterns, for each composition C1 to C4, are respectively equal to 0.02, 0.02, 0.02 and
  • compositions C1 to C4 significantly improve the cutaneous extensibility (Ue), the tonicity (Ur) and the elasticity (Ur/Ue) of the skin in comparison with a bare skin, 1 h and 6h after application of each composition.
  • the compositions C1 to C4 according to the invention also improve the cutaneous extensibility (Ue), the tonicity (Ur) and the elasticity (Ur/Ue) of the skin in comparison with a skin treated with the reference composition, in particular the compositions C1 and C3.
  • Example 3 Influence of the mass ratio in AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE
  • composition C3 is reported in the previous table.
  • the following comparative compositions C5 and C6 have been prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table hereinbelow, according to the protocol described hereinafter.
  • composition C3 is stable, unlike the comparative compositions C5 and C6.
  • the weight ratios between the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol patterns, for each composition C3, C4 and C7, are respectively equal to 0.02, 0.029 and 0.05.
  • compositions C3 and C4 according to the invention are stable, unlike the comparative composition C7.
  • Example 5 Influence of the aqueous polymer type
  • composition C3 is stable, unlike the comparative compositions C8 and C9.
  • Example 6 Other comparative compositions [Table 6]
  • the weight ratios between the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol patterns, for each composition C3 and C11 , are respectively equal to 0.02 and 0.
  • the ratio is absent because the composition comprises neither the homopolymer of 2- acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid nor the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester.
  • composition C3 according to the invention is stable, unlike the comparative compositions C10 and C11.
  • Example 7 Other compositions according to the invention The following compositions C12 to C14 were prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the following table, using the protocol described above: In addition, the compositions were analyzed in vivo using the Torque meter ® , as described above.
  • compositions C12 to C14 according to the invention show a greater efficacy on mechanical properties as compared to Cref.
  • Example 8 Second embodiment of the invention: Influence of the shearing according the weight ratio between the homopolvmer of 2-acrylamido 2- methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) and the fatty acid and polvolvcerol ester (PG5L)
  • AMPS 2-acrylamido 2- methylpropane sulfonic acid
  • P5L fatty acid and polvolvcerol ester
  • compositions are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the tables hereinbelow, according to the following protocol:
  • phase A1 The ingredients of the phase A1 are mixed and heated up to 80°C; then, the ingredients of the phase A2 are added, to obtain a phase A.
  • the ingredients of the phase B are mixed and then added onto the phase A at room temperature (20°C).
  • the pH is set with the phase C.
  • the ingredients of the phase D are added onto the obtained mixture.
  • the mixing is carried out either using a shearing below 8000 s -1 (eg using a Rayneri pale) or over 8000 s -1 (eg using a rotor- stator). This shearing value will be obtained considering mixing vessel diameter, mixing pales diameter, rotor stator gap length and mixing speed.
  • Comparative composition C5 * was prepared using Rayneri pale (shearing below 8000 s -1 ) (the unstability result is shown in example 3); the same composition C5 * was prepared by the same process in which the mixing was made using a rotor-stator (shearing over 8000 s -1 ).
  • compositions 15 and 16 were prepared using Rayneri pale (shearing below 8000 s-
  • compositions of the second embodiment of the invention with AMPS/PG5L weight ratio strictly greater than 0.04 and less than or equal to 0.05, require a shearing over 8000 s _1 during preparation, thus a mixing using a rotor-stator.
  • compositions of the second embodiment of the invention with AMPS/PG5L weight ratio strictly greater than 0.05 and preferably less than 0.09, require a shearing below 8000 s _1 during preparation, thus a mixing using Rayneri pale.

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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition, de préférence une composition cosmétique, comprenant les éléments suivants dans un milieu aqueux physiologiquement acceptable : au moins un polyol, l'acide hyaluronique et/ou l'un de ses sels, entre 2,1 % et 6 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, d'au moins un acide gras et d'un ester de polyglycérol comprenant de 2 à 10 motifs de glycérol, entre 0,01 % et 0,2 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, d'au moins un polymère hydrophile choisi parmi l'acide 2-acrylamido-2-méthylpropane sulfonique ou l'un de ses sels, et éventuellement, au moins un polysaccharide comprenant de la rhamnose.
PCT/EP2021/066650 2020-06-19 2021-06-18 Composition comprenant un polyol, un ester de polyglycérol, un sel d'acide hyaluronique et un polymère hydrophile spécifique WO2021255255A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FRFR2006452 2020-06-19
FR2006452A FR3111546B1 (fr) 2020-06-19 2020-06-19 Composition comprenant un polyol, un ester de polyglycérol, un sel d’acide hyaluronique et un polymère hydrophile spécifique
FR2008686 2020-08-25
FRFR2008686 2020-08-25

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Citations (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2645220A1 (fr) 1989-04-04 1990-10-05 Oetiker Hans Maschinen Dispositif d'assemblage de deux bords de pieces plates
JPH02295912A (ja) 1989-05-10 1990-12-06 Shiseido Co Ltd 肌用化粧料
WO1993018743A1 (fr) 1992-03-20 1993-09-30 Janssen Pharmaceutica N.V. Agent de regulation de l'etat graisseux de la peau
EP0852949A2 (fr) 1997-03-31 1998-07-15 Shiseido Company Limited Utilisation des alpha-aminoacides pour favoriser la dégradation des desmosomes ou la desquamation du stratum corneum
WO2002051828A2 (fr) 2000-12-22 2002-07-04 L'oreal Nouveau derives c-glycosides et utilisation
WO2004078789A1 (fr) * 2003-02-04 2004-09-16 Solabia (Sa) Nouvel agent stimulant la liberation des beta-endorphines, compositions cosmetiques et/ou dermatologiques en contenant et leurs applications
FR2876283A1 (fr) * 2004-10-07 2006-04-14 Ind E Com De Cosmeticos Natura Composition cosmetique comprenant un compose saccharidique presentant un motif repete riche en rhamnose, et son utilisation en cosmetique pour une action anti- vieillissement cutane
EP3120831A1 (fr) * 2015-07-23 2017-01-25 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Administration topique de compositions cutanées ayant un faible ph
JP2017036338A (ja) * 2012-02-10 2017-02-16 株式会社 資生堂 水中油型乳化皮膚化粧料
WO2018078095A1 (fr) * 2016-10-28 2018-05-03 L'oreal Composition comprenant au moins deux esters d'acide gras de (poly)glycérol et son utilisation en cosmétique
WO2019129820A1 (fr) * 2017-12-28 2019-07-04 L'oreal Composition gélifiée comprenant une microdispersion aqueuse de cire(s)

Patent Citations (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2645220A1 (fr) 1989-04-04 1990-10-05 Oetiker Hans Maschinen Dispositif d'assemblage de deux bords de pieces plates
JPH02295912A (ja) 1989-05-10 1990-12-06 Shiseido Co Ltd 肌用化粧料
WO1993018743A1 (fr) 1992-03-20 1993-09-30 Janssen Pharmaceutica N.V. Agent de regulation de l'etat graisseux de la peau
EP0852949A2 (fr) 1997-03-31 1998-07-15 Shiseido Company Limited Utilisation des alpha-aminoacides pour favoriser la dégradation des desmosomes ou la desquamation du stratum corneum
WO2002051828A2 (fr) 2000-12-22 2002-07-04 L'oreal Nouveau derives c-glycosides et utilisation
WO2004078789A1 (fr) * 2003-02-04 2004-09-16 Solabia (Sa) Nouvel agent stimulant la liberation des beta-endorphines, compositions cosmetiques et/ou dermatologiques en contenant et leurs applications
FR2876283A1 (fr) * 2004-10-07 2006-04-14 Ind E Com De Cosmeticos Natura Composition cosmetique comprenant un compose saccharidique presentant un motif repete riche en rhamnose, et son utilisation en cosmetique pour une action anti- vieillissement cutane
JP2017036338A (ja) * 2012-02-10 2017-02-16 株式会社 資生堂 水中油型乳化皮膚化粧料
EP3120831A1 (fr) * 2015-07-23 2017-01-25 Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. Administration topique de compositions cutanées ayant un faible ph
WO2018078095A1 (fr) * 2016-10-28 2018-05-03 L'oreal Composition comprenant au moins deux esters d'acide gras de (poly)glycérol et son utilisation en cosmétique
WO2019129820A1 (fr) * 2017-12-28 2019-07-04 L'oreal Composition gélifiée comprenant une microdispersion aqueuse de cire(s)

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