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WO2021013419A1 - Renforcement de la stabilité d'agents utilisés pour traiter de la matière kératinique - Google Patents

Renforcement de la stabilité d'agents utilisés pour traiter de la matière kératinique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021013419A1
WO2021013419A1 PCT/EP2020/065777 EP2020065777W WO2021013419A1 WO 2021013419 A1 WO2021013419 A1 WO 2021013419A1 EP 2020065777 W EP2020065777 W EP 2020065777W WO 2021013419 A1 WO2021013419 A1 WO 2021013419A1
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Prior art keywords
group
composition
acid
weight
stands
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Application number
PCT/EP2020/065777
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Torsten LECHNER
Gabriele Weser
Claudia Kolonko
Caroline KRIENER
Ulrike Schumacher
Marc NOWOTTNY
Juergen Schoepgens
Phillip Jaiser
Carsten MATHIASZYK
Original Assignee
Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2021013419A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021013419A1/fr

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585Organosilicon compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4926Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having six membered rings
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884Sequential application

Definitions

  • the keratin material is treated in a method in which two compositions (A) and (B) are applied to the keratin material.
  • the first composition (A) is the low-water silane blend described above.
  • the second composition (B) contains water and also contains at least one heterocyclic aldehyde.
  • the two compositions (A) and (B) come into contact with one another, this contact being possible either through prior mixing of (A) and (B) or through successive application of (A) and (B) to the keratin material.
  • the composition (A) is characterized in that it is low in water, preferably essentially free of water.
  • the composition (A) therefore contains less than 10% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the composition (A).
  • Rg stands for a Ci-Ci 2 -alkyl group
  • R 11 stands for a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-IV) can also take part in the condensation reactions, which condensation with as yet unreacted, partially or completely hydrolyzed Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S- IV) go through. In this case, the Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-IV) react with themselves.
  • the cosmetic ingredients which can optionally be used in the composition (A) can be all suitable constituents in order to impart further positive properties to the agent.
  • a solvent, a thickening or film-forming polymer, a surface-active compound from the group of nonionic, cationic, anionic or zwitterionic / amphoteric surfactants, the coloring compounds from the group of pigments, the substantive dyes, the oxidation dye precursors can be used in the composition (A) , the fatty components from the group of Cs-Cso fatty alcohols, the hydrocarbon compounds, fatty acid esters, the acids and bases belonging to the group of pH regulators, the perfumes, preservatives, plant extracts and protein hydrolysates.
  • Aliphatic heterocycles are non-aromatic rings or ring systems.
  • the aliphatic heterocycles can be saturated or unsaturated.
  • saturated heterocyclic compounds are, for example, the oxirane ring, the aziridine ring, the azetidine ring, the tetrahydrofuran ring, the pyrrolidine ring, the piperidine ring and the 1,4-dioxane ring.
  • Very particularly preferred aldehydes of the general formula (A-II) can be selected from the group consisting of
  • Pyridoxal is commercially available from the usual suppliers of chemicals known to those skilled in the art, for example from Sigma-Aldrich.
  • the second composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - has one or more heterocyclic aldehydes (B2) of the general formula (A-II) in a total amount of 0.1 to 50 , 0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.7 to 7.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.0 to 4.0% by weight contains.
  • Ci 2 -C30 fatty acid monoglyceride is understood to mean the monoester of the trihydric alcohol glycerol with one equivalent of fatty acid. Either the middle hydroxyl group of the glycerol or the terminal hydroxyl group of the glycerol can be esterified with the fatty acid.
  • the second composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - has one or more Ci 2 - ⁇ 30-Fettklamono-, Ci 2 - ⁇ 3o -Fatty acid di- and / or Ci 2 - ⁇ 3o-Fettklaretriglyceride (B2) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.3 to 15.0 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.8 to 5.0% by weight.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the second composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - one or more Ci 2 -C30 fatty acid mono-, C12-C30 fatty acid and / or Ci 2 -C3o fatty acid triglycerides (B2) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight .-% and very particularly preferably from 0.8 to 5.0% by weight.
  • anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group
  • amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge
  • cationic surfactants which have a positively charged hydrophilic group in addition to a hydrophobic residue
  • nonionic surfactants which have no charges but rather strong dipole moments and are strongly hydrated in aqueous solution.
  • Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures can be obtained as described above.
  • Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hardened C12 / 14 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred.
  • R 5 CO-NR 6 - [Z] (Tnio-3) in which R 5 CO stands for an aliphatic acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 6 stands for hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] for represents a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups.
  • the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride.
  • Fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides of the formula (Tnio-4), which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative, are particularly preferred.
  • the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • the sugar surfactants can be contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and quantities of 0.5-7.5% by weight are very particularly preferred.
  • alkylene oxide addition products with saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid and the sugar surfactants have proven to be preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the second composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - has one or more solvents in a total amount of from 1.0 to 35.0% by weight, preferably from 4.0 to 25.0% by weight, more preferably from 8.0 to 20.0% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 10.0 to 15.0% by weight.
  • the second composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - one or more solvents from the group of 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2- Butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol and / or benzyl alcohol in a total amount of 1.0 to 35.0% by weight, preferably from 4.0 to 25.0% by weight, more preferably from 8.0 to 20.0% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 10.0 to 15.0% by weight.
  • solvents from the group of 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2- Butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol and / or benzyl alcohol in a total amount
  • composition (A) in a weight excess in relation to the composition (B).
  • 20 parts by weight (A) can be mixed with 1 part by weight (B), or 10 parts by weight (A) are mixed with 1 part by weight (B), or 5 parts by weight (A) are mixed with 1 part by weight (B).
  • the third composition (C) can be, for example, a composition which contains at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or substantive dyes.
  • a method according to the invention in which the keratin material is applied is particularly preferred
  • a particularly preferred method according to the invention is characterized in that, in a first step, a composition is applied to the keratinic material which was prepared immediately before use by mixing the first composition (A) and the second composition (B), and in in a second step the third composition (C) is applied to the keratinic material.
  • Coloring compounds from the group of pigments which are likewise particularly preferred according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are usually based on mica and / or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica is one of the layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in conjunction with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (B) and / or the composition (C) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of inorganic pigments, which is selected from the group of colored metal oxides, Metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or mica coated with at least one metal oxide and / or a metal oxychloride.
  • synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxide (s) can also be used as a pearlescent pigment.
  • Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide (s).
  • the composition (B) and / or the composition (C) according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments, which is selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, Silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or from coloring compounds based on mica or mica coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.
  • Colorona® Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona® are, for example:
  • the aspect ratio expressed by the ratio of the mean size to the average thickness, is at least 80, preferably at least 200, more preferably at least 500, particularly preferably more than 750.
  • the mean size of the uncoated substrate flakes is understood to be the d50 value of the uncoated substrate flakes. Unless otherwise stated, the d50 value was determined using a Sympatec Helos device with Quixel wet dispersion. For sample preparation, the sample to be examined was predispersed in isopropanol for a period of 3 minutes.
  • Uncoated lamellar, lenticular and / or VPM substrate platelets in particular those made of metal or metal alloy, reflect the incident light to a high degree and produce a light-dark flop, but no color impression.
  • a color impression can be generated, for example, due to optical interference effects.
  • Such pigments can be based on at least once coated substrate platelets. These show interference effects due to the superposition of differently refracted and reflected light beams.
  • preferred pigments are pigments based on a coated lamellar substrate platelet.
  • the substrate platelet preferably has at least one coating B made of a high-index metal oxide with a coating thickness of at least 50 nm.
  • a further coating A is preferably located between the coating B and the surface of the substrate platelet.
  • another coating C which is different from the layer B below, is located on the layer B.
  • Layer B can be produced, for example, by hydrolytic decomposition of one or more organic metal compounds and / or by precipitation of one or more dissolved metal salts and, if necessary, subsequent aftertreatment (for example, transferring a hydroxide-containing layer formed into the oxide layers by annealing).
  • each of the coatings A, B and / or C can be built up from a mixture of two or more metal oxides (hydrate), each of the coatings is preferably built up from a metal oxide (hydrate).
  • Suitable pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet include, for example, the pigments of the VISIONAIRE series from Eckart.
  • the agents according to the invention can also contain one or more substantive dyes as coloring compounds.
  • Direct dyes are dyes that are absorbed directly onto the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color.
  • Substantive dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes or indophenols.
  • Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065), Acid Yellow 121 ( CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2- Naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n ° C015), Acid Orange 10 (Cl 16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 1 1 (CI 45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI 50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1; CI 20170; KATSU201; nosodiumsalt; Brown No.201; RESORCIN BROWN; ACID ORANGE 24 ; Japan Brown 201; D & C Brown No.1), Acid Red 14 (C.1.14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; C1 16255), Acid Red 27 (E 123, C1 16185, C-Red 46, Echtrot D, FD&C Red Nr.2, Food Red 9, Naphtholrot S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, Fuchsia Red, D&C Red 33, C1
  • Acid Yellow 1 is called 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt and has a solubility in water of at least 40 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Red 33 is the diantrium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3- (phenylazo) -naphthalene-2,7-disulphonate, its water solubility is 2.5 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2- (1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl) benzoic acid, its water solubility is specified with greater than 10 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Suitable polymers based on vinyl monomers are the homo- and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl (C1 -C6) alkyl pyrrole, vinyl oxazole, vinyl thiazole, of vinylpyrimidine, of vinylimidazole.
  • the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on the calcium salt of acrylic acid.
  • Total weight - one or more film-forming polymers in a total amount of 0.1 to 18.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 16.0% by weight, more preferably from 5.0 to 14.5% by weight % and very particularly preferably from 8.0 to 12.0% by weight.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé permettant de traiter de la matière kératinique, en particulier des cheveux humains, selon lequel sont utilisées sur la matière kératinique : une première composition (A) qui contient, rapporté au poids total de la composition (A), (A1) moins de 10% en poids d'eau et (A2) un ou plusieurs alkoxysilanes C1-C6 organiques et/ou leurs produits de condensation, et une seconde composition (B) qui contient (B1) de l'eau et (B2) un ou plusieurs composants aldéhyde hétérocycliques.
PCT/EP2020/065777 2019-07-24 2020-06-08 Renforcement de la stabilité d'agents utilisés pour traiter de la matière kératinique WO2021013419A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102019210986.1A DE102019210986A1 (de) 2019-07-24 2019-07-24 Erhöhung der Stabilität von Mitteln zur Behandlung von Keratinmaterial
DE102019210986.1 2019-07-24

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Publication Number Publication Date
WO2021013419A1 true WO2021013419A1 (fr) 2021-01-28

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19738866A1 (de) 1997-09-05 1999-03-11 Henkel Kgaa Schaumarme Tensidmischungen mit Hydroxymischethern
WO2001089460A2 (fr) * 2000-05-24 2001-11-29 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Agent de coloration pour fibres contenant de la keratine
EP1941930A1 (fr) * 2006-12-20 2008-07-09 L'Oréal Composition comprenant un composé silicone et un organosilane particulier
WO2013068979A2 (fr) 2011-11-09 2013-05-16 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un alcoxysilane
EP2168633B1 (fr) 2008-09-30 2016-03-30 L'Oréal Composition cosmétique comprenant un composé organique du silicium comportant au moins une fonction basique, un polymère filmogène hydrophobe, un pigment et un solvant volatil
US20170281515A1 (en) * 2016-03-31 2017-10-05 L'oreal Inhibiting color fading with layer-by-layer films

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19738866A1 (de) 1997-09-05 1999-03-11 Henkel Kgaa Schaumarme Tensidmischungen mit Hydroxymischethern
WO2001089460A2 (fr) * 2000-05-24 2001-11-29 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Agent de coloration pour fibres contenant de la keratine
EP1941930A1 (fr) * 2006-12-20 2008-07-09 L'Oréal Composition comprenant un composé silicone et un organosilane particulier
EP2168633B1 (fr) 2008-09-30 2016-03-30 L'Oréal Composition cosmétique comprenant un composé organique du silicium comportant au moins une fonction basique, un polymère filmogène hydrophobe, un pigment et un solvant volatil
WO2013068979A2 (fr) 2011-11-09 2013-05-16 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un alcoxysilane
US20170281515A1 (en) * 2016-03-31 2017-10-05 L'oreal Inhibiting color fading with layer-by-layer films

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