WO2018108871A1

WO2018108871A1 - Composition comprising at least one oil and a polyester

Info

Publication number: WO2018108871A1
Application number: PCT/EP2017/082350
Authority: WO
Inventors: Noémie PIOUD; Céline DEMARCQ
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2016-12-16
Filing date: 2017-12-12
Publication date: 2018-06-21
Also published as: FR3060330B1; FR3060330A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising: a) at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of a dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and of a diol; b) at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol which is chosen from a fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl chain containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and from 2 to 25 glycerol units; c) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin comprising C12 to C22 alkyl chains; and d) at least one aliphatic monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; characterized in that the total content of said polyester(s) and of said fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol is between 25% and 70% by weight, preferentially between 30% and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, comprising a topical administration of said composition.

Description

COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE OIL AND A POLYESTER

The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one liquid polyester, a fatty acid ester of a polyol, a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin, and an aliphatic monoalcohol, and to the cosmetic use and to the process for treating keratin materials, such as bodily or facial skin, in particular for caring for said keratin materials.

Formulations intended for caring for in particular the lips have been known for a very long time and are in varied forms, ranging from fluid formulations such as glosses, to optionally supported solid compositions in the form of a stick, or even compositions in the form of a pencil.

The current technologies are increasingly innovative and efficient, and there is an ever- increasing number of users using long-lasting and glossy lip products such as glosses or lacquers. However, products of this type do not provide the nutritive efficacy expected by consumers.

In order to further diversify the compositions proposed to consumers, anhydrous or virtually anhydrous formulations, which are even more fluid than glosses, and which comprise high contents of oils, that are very comfortable to wear, have emerged. However, these oils do not allow good staying power over time and therefore do not meet consumers' expectations.

Moreover, the formulation of natural cosmetic products is especially becoming a major challenge to satisfy a new consumer expectation, in particular that of products certified as being natural and/or biological.

Thus, there is a need to make cosmetic compositions, in particular for the lips, which are efficient and which can combine sensory properties such as good staying power, gloss, nutritive efficacy and/or tack resistance.

In the course of its research, the Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that a composition according to the invention comprising at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of a dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and of a diol and at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol, which is chosen from a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl chain containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and from 2 to 25 glycerol units, satisfies this need.

The object of the present invention is thus to obtain a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, in particular such as a transparent oil for the lips, which is stable over time and glossy, while at the same time having good sensory properties on application, such as having little or no tack and/or good glidance, and which especially affords, after application, a film deposit which has good staying power.

The composition also makes it possible especially to moisturize keratin materials such as the skin and/or the lips. One subject of the present invention is a composition comprising: a) at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of a dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and of a diol; b) at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol which is chosen from a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl chain containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and from 2 to 25 glycerol units; c) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin comprising C12 to C22 alkyl chains; and d) at least one aliphatic monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; characterized in that the total content of said polyester(s) and of said fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol is between 20% and 70% by weight, preferentially between 30% and 60% by weight and even more preferentially between 35% and 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least two non- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin that are different from each other, as defined in c) and/or the oil(s) (c) are chosen from triglycerides constituted of fatty acids and of glycerols.

According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are intended for topical application to the skin or the integuments, and contain a physiologically acceptable medium. A composition of the invention is especially a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, intended to be applied to a keratin material, in particular the lips or the skin, for instance a lip oil.

Fatty acid esters of polvqlvcerol

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol, chosen from a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and from 2 to 25 glycerol units.

The polyglycerol esters according to the invention are glycerol esters (or monoglyceryl esters) or polyglycerol esters (or polyglyceryl esters) such as diglyceryl (or diglycerol) esters.

According to one embodiment, the (poly)glycerol ester according to the invention results from the esterification of at least one saturated, monounsaturated or polyunsaturated, preferably monounsaturated and/or polyunsaturated fatty acid and of a (poly)glycerol. The term "polyglycerol" denotes glycerol or glyceryl polymers. When it is a polymer, the polyglycerol is generally a linear sequence, preferably comprising from 2 to 25 and preferably of 10 to 20 glycerol units, in particular from 13 to 17 glycerol units.

The esters more particularly considered according to the present invention are esters resulting from the esterification of polyglycerol and of C12-C24, preferably C16 to C22 and preferably C18 carboxylic acid(s), such as palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, gondoic or erucic acid.

The fatty acid esters are saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated. Preferably, the mixture of esters comprises at least 15% and more preferentially at least 35% of unsaturated fatty acid ester. The carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, it is a linear monocarboxylic acid.

In general, they are derived from the esterification of at least one hydroxyl function of a polyglycerol with a C12-C24, preferably C16 to C22, and especially C18 carboxylic acid, which is preferably monounsaturated and/or polyunsaturated. According to a particular embodiment, the esters that are suitable for use in the present invention may be derived from the esterification of a polyglycerol with one or more identical or different carboxylic acids. It may be a hydroxylated monoester, a hydroxylated diester, a hydroxylated triester, or a mixture thereof.

A preferred composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, according to the invention comprises an ester of (poly)glycerol chosen from the group constituted of glycerol and glycerol polymers.

Preferably, the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is chosen from a mixture of fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, in particular formed from 2 to 25 glycerol units, and in which the mixture preferably comprises at least 30% or more of fatty acid esters of polyglycerol comprising several glycerol units, more preferentially 40%.

Preferably, the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is chosen from a fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and from 2 to 25 glycerol units.

Preferably, the starting material of fatty acid esters of (poly)glycerol present in the composition of the invention comprises fatty acid esters of polyglycerols containing 70% or more of polyglycerols whose degree of polymerization is 4 or more, fatty acid esters of polyglycerols containing not more than 30% of polymerization with a degree of polymerization of 5.

Preferably, the fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol according to the invention have a number-average molar mass (Mn) of between 1700 and 2300 g/mol; and/or a mass- average molar mass (Mw) of between 7000 and 9400 g/mol, as polystyrene equivalents, and/or a polydispersity index Ip in the range 3.5-4.7, when analysed in tetrahydrofuran (THF) by size exclusion chromatography (SEC) with refractometric detection.

The term "Mn (number-average molar mass)" means the total mass of all the polymer chains in a sample divided by the total number of chains in a sample. If Mi is the molar mass of a chain i and Ni is the number of chains of mass Mi, then the number-average molar mass Mn is equal to:

∑ Ni x MI

Mn =

The term "Mw mass-average molar mass (or weight-average molar mass)" means the average of the molar masses of all the chains weighted by the mass of the chains of each length. The mass-average molar mass Mw is equal to:

∑ Ni x Mi²

Mw =

∑ Ni x Mi

The polydispersity index Ip makes it possible globally to characterize the dispersity of the molar masses of the polymer and is equal to:

Mw

i^{p =} Mn^" Preferably, the saponification number of the fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol is between 150 and 250 mg KOH/g, preferentially between 170 and 200 mg KOH/g.

The term "saponification number" means the mass of potassium hydroxide KOH, expressed in milligrams, required to neutralize the free fatty acids and to saponify the esterified fatty acids contained in 1 g of fatty substance.

Preferably, the saponification number of the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is less than 10 mg KOH/g, preferentially less than 5 mg KOH/g.

The term "acid number" means the mass of potassium hydroxide (KOH), expressed in mg, required to neutralize the free acidity contained in 1 g of fatty substance. Preferably, the hydroxyl number of the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is between 20 and 50 mg KOH/g, preferentially between 30 and 45 mg KOH/g.

The term "hydroxyl number" means the number which expresses in mg the amount of potassium hydroxide required for neutralization of the acid which is combined by acylation with 1 g of substance.

Preferably, a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol according to the invention may be prepared according to the preparation process described in patent applications US 8420842, US9139504 or WO 2000/026265.

As mixture of fatty acid esters of polyglycerol a) comprising alkyl chains containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and formed from 2 or 25 glycerol units that is particularly preferred according to the invention, mention may be made of the product sold under the trade name Viamerine 1000 Deodorized® from the company Aldivia.

In the compositions according to the invention, the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is present in a content of between 10% to 30% by weight, preferably from 15% to 25% by weight and more preferably from 17% to 23% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polyester

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyester as defined below. It may thus comprise a single polyester or a mixture of several different polyesters. The term "liquid polyester" means a polyester which begins to flow under its own weight in less than one minute at room temperature (25°C).

In the context of the present invention, the term "unsaturated fatty acids" denotes monounsaturated or polyunsaturated acids comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The unsaturated fatty acid dimers may especially comprise from 2 to 4 unsaturations in their carbon chain. The unsaturated fatty acid trimers may comprise from 3 to 6 unsaturations in their carbon chain. Preferably, the unsaturated fatty acid dimers and/or trimers are polycarboxylic acids comprising at least 2 and up to 6, carboxylic acid functions per molecule. In a preferred embodiment, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer may comprise from 28 to 44 carbon atoms and two carboxylic acid functions. The unsaturated fatty acid trimer may comprise from 42 to 66 carbon atoms and three carboxylic acid functions.

According to one embodiment, the polyester is obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and a diol. According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprising 36 carbon atoms and two carboxylic acid functions, and a diol.

Mixtures of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and trimers and/or of unsaturated fatty acid (not polymerized, thus corresponding to a monomer) may also be used in the context of the invention. In the case of such a mixture, preference is given to a mixture comprising more than 50% by weight of dimers, for example a mixture comprising more than 90% by weight and preferably more than 95% of acids in the form of dimers, the remainder of the mixture possibly being unsaturated fatty acid trimers and/or monomers. The unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer may be optionally hydrogenated after the polymerization reaction of the unsaturated fatty acid in order especially to improve the stability of the dimer or trimer product.

Hydrogenated fatty acid dimers (oleic or linoleic acid) are sold especially under the brand names Empol 1008, Empol 1004, Empol 1025, Empol 101 1 and Empol 1062 by Cognis and Pripol 1006 (dilinoleic acid) by Uniqema International. Uniqema also markets a hydrogenated fatty acid dimer under the name Pripol 1013 (hydrogenated dilinoleic acid).

The unsaturated fatty acid dimer is particularly preferably a linoleic acid dimer, also known as dilinoleic acid, obtained by intermolecular polymerization of linoleic acid. The unsaturated fatty acid may be of natural origin, preferably of plant origin. A fatty acid of plant origin may originate from any plant source that produces said fatty acid. For example, in the case of linoleic acid, use may be made of molecules extracted from soybean or from rapeseed. The polyester in the composition according to the invention is thus obtained by condensation of a long-chain fatty acid polymerized with a diol.

In the context of the present invention, the term "diol" means a C2 to C10, preferably C2-C8 and preferentially C2-C6 hydrocarbon-based compound, the carbon chain of which is substituted with two hydroxyl functions. The hydrocarbon-based chain(s) may be interrupted with an oxygen atom.

The diols that may be used according to the invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alcohols. Preferably, the diol is a saturated linear diol.

Preferably, the diol is a propanediol, especially 1 ,2-propanediol, 1 ,3-propanediol or 1 ,4-propanediol, and preferably 1 ,3-propanediol. Particularly preferably, the diol is a butanediol, especially 1 ,2-butanediol, 1 ,3- butanediol or 1 ,4-butanediol, and preferably 1 ,4-butanediol.

Advantageously, the polyester used in the composition according to the invention has an average molecular weight of between 500 and 2000, preferably between 1000 and 2000 and preferentially between 1200 and 1800.

In a particular embodiment, the polyester obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and a diol is a polymer, or polyester, of dilinoleic acid and of 1 ,3-propanediol.

According to a preferred mode, the polyester according to the invention is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and of 1 ,3-propanediol preferably with an average molecular weight of 1500, a viscosity at 40°C of 3000-6000 cSt and a refractive index at 25°C of 1 .475- 1 .485.

Mention may be made especially in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast® Green 3000 (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/propanediol copolymer). In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and a diol is a polymer, or polyester, of dilinoleic acid and of 1 ,4-butanediol. According to a preferred mode, the polyester according to the invention is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and of 1 ,4-butanediol preferably with an average molecular weight of 1500, a viscosity at 40°C of 2500-3500 cSt and a refractive index at 25°C of 1 .475- 1 .485. Mention may be made especially in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer).

Said liquid polyester(s) are present in a content of between 10% and 40% by weight, preferably between 15% and 35% by weight, preferably between 20% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The total content of said polyester(s) and of said fatty acid ester(s) of (poly)glycerol is between 20% and 70% by weight, preferentially between 30% and 60% by weight, even more preferentially between 35% and 55% by weight, in particular 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The mass ratio of the total content of said polyester(s) relative to the total content of fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol is between 0.3 and 4, preferentially between 0.6 and 2.3, more preferentially between 1 .1 and 1 .3, in particular 1 .25.

The oils

The composition, in particular the cosmetic composition, especially comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin chosen from non-volatile plant oils or triglycerides.

In one particular mode, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin chosen from non-volatile plant oils or triglycerides, which are different from each other.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "oil" means a compound whose maximum viscosity is 200 000 cPs (200 Pa.s) at 25°C.

The term "non-volatile" refers to a compound whose vapour pressure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10^"3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that are suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen in particular from said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin with a molecular weight of greater than 400 Da, preferably greater than 500 Da. Said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin with a molecular weight of greater than 400 Da may be chosen from:

- saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based plant oils, containing fatty acids with saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chains of C4 to C28, such as jojoba oil, castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, DHA algal oil, Ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame seed oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, Rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, groundnut oil, kaya oil, coconut oil, marula oil, camellina oil, coriander oil, Limnanthes oil, pracaxi oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, sandalwood nut oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, poppy oil, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; and/or

- mixtures thereof,

- C₇-C₄o fatty acid triglycerides, which are in particular saturated, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, and Cis-36 acid triglycerides. The composition may comprise at least two non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin which are different from each other; preferably, these said oils are chosen from saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based plant oils, containing saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with C4 to C28 alkyl chains.

Said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin comprise at least 40% of fatty acid bearing a C12-C24 alkyl chain, preferentially at least 50% of fatty acid bearing a C14-C22 alkyl chain relative to the total weight of fatty acid.

According to another embodiment, said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin comprise at least 60% of fatty acid bearing a C12-C22 alkyl chain, preferentially at least 70% of fatty acid bearing a C16-C20 alkyl chain, even more preferentially at least 80% of fatty acid bearing a C18 alkyl chain, even more preferentially at least 50% of fatty acid bearing a monounsaturated C18 alkyl chain relative to the total weight of fatty acid. Said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin that are particularly preferred comprise at least 50% of monounsaturated C18 fatty acid relative to the total weight of fatty acid and have a molecular weight of greater than 500 Da.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises apricot kernel oil, castor oil, or a mixture thereof.

Said plant oil(s) are present in a content of between 10% and 80% by weight, preferentially between 20% and 70% by weight and even more preferentially between 30% and 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises:

- between 10% and 55% of a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin as defined in c) by weight, in particular between 5% and 55% of a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin by weight, more preferentially between 20% and 50% by weight, even more preferentially 33% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, said oil preferentially being castor oil,

- and between 10% and 25% of a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin as defined in c) by weight, in particular between 5% and 25% of a non- volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin by weight, more preferentially between 10% and 20% by weight, more preferentially between 15% and 20% by weight, even more preferentially 18.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, said oil preferentially being apricot kernel oil.

In a preferred mode of the composition according to the invention, the total content of said polyester(s) a) and of said fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol b) is between 20% and 70% by weight, preferentially between 30% and 60% by weight and even more preferentially between 35% and 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred mode of the composition according to the invention, the total content of said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin c) is between 10% and 80% by weight, preferentially between 20% and 70% by weight and even more preferentially between 30% and 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The mass ratio of the total content of said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin c) relative to the total content [of said polyester(s) a) and of said fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol b)] as defined above is between 0.1 and 4.25, preferably between 0.3 and 2.4, even more preferentially between 0.5 and 1 .8, in particular between 0.6 and 1 .5.

Monoalcohol

The compositions of the invention comprise at least one aliphatic monoalcohol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably in a content of less than 10% by weight, and preferably in a content of less than 6% by weight, preferentially less than 5% by weight and even more preferentially less than 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular mode, the monoalcohol is present in a content of between 0.5% and 6% by weight and preferentially between 1 % and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more monoalcohol(s).

The term "aliphatic monoalcohol" means any linear or branched, saturated alkane compound bearing only one hydroxyl (OH) function.

The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) present in the compositions of the invention may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol, or mixtures thereof.

The weight amounts of monoalcohol(s) correspond either to the weight amount of the monoalcohol if the composition comprises only one monoalcohol, or to the total weight amount of all the monoalcohols if the composition comprises a mixture of several monoalcohols.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously cosmetic.

The term "cosmetic composition" means a substance or a preparation intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body, especially the epidermis, the lips and the oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleansing them, making them more attractive, fragrancing them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition, or correcting body odours. The composition according to the invention comprises a "physiologically acceptable medium".

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium that is suitable for the topical administration of a composition, and that is compatible with all human keratin materials, such as the skin, the lips, the nails, mucous membranes, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the scalp and/or the hair, or any other area of bodily skin. According to the invention, a physiologically acceptable medium is preferentially a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium which is free of any odour or unpleasant appearance and which is entirely compatible with the topical administration route.

The viscosity is measured using a Rheomat RM 200 reference rheometer with the aid of a spindle of size 1 to 5 depending on the measurement volume. The rheometer is immersed into the formulation, at a temperature of 25°C. Measurements are taken at 30 seconds and then at 10 minutes. The value obtained is in deviation units and should be between 10 and 90 DU at 10 minutes. The spindle used is a No. 3 spindle. The values are converted into mPa.s.

In one particular mode of the invention, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity of between 1000 and 1500 mPa.s, or between 25 and 35 DU.

Adjuvants

In the context of the present invention, the composition may also contain at least one adjuvant chosen from the adjuvants that are common in the cosmetics field, such as pigments and/or dyes. These adjuvants are, for example, active principles, preserving agents, antioxidants, complexing agents, film-forming agents, surfactants, co-surfactants, moisturizers, solvents, fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odour absorbers, pH regulators, antiinflammatory agents, fragrances, dyes, pigments, and also lipid vesicles.

As active agents, it will be advantageous to introduce into the composition according to the invention at least one compound chosen from: desquamating agents; calmatives, organic or mineral photoprotective agents, moisturizers; depigmenting agents; anti- glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation; agents for stimulating fibroblast and/or keratinocyte proliferation or for stimulating keratinocyte differentiation; muscle relaxants and/or dermo-decontracting agents; tensioning agents; anti-pollution agents and/or free-radical scavengers; agents acting on the microcirculation; agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells; and mixtures thereof. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.001 % to 20% by weight and preferentially from 0.01 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into the oily phase, into the aqueous phase and/or into the lipid vesicles. These adjuvants and the concentrations thereof should be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention.

The composition according to the invention may be in various forms, and in particular may be in the form of a lip oil, preferably in the form of a liquid lip oil.

Use(s)

The compositions of the invention may be used in any application, such as in cosmetics or dermatology, for example in cosmetics for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, which includes any cosmetic application for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to cover the skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, and the nails. The lips are most particularly under consideration according to the invention.

Preferably, the composition described is administered topically and is suitable for use in a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, such as the skin and/or the lips.

Even more preferably, the composition described is suitable for use, such as cosmetic use, by topical application of the composition, to preserve and/or reinforce the natural barrier function of the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum and/or to moisturize keratin materials such as the skin and/or the lips. In particular, the compositions according to the invention may be included in the manufacture of protective, treatment or care products for the face, for the hands or for the body, in particular of the face or of the body, as makeup products. It is directed in particular toward the use, such as the cosmetic use, for preserving and/or reinforcing the natural barrier function of the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum of the skin and/or the lips.

The compositions, such as cosmetic compositions, according to the invention have applications in a large number of cosmetic treatments for keratin materials, and more especially the skin and/or the lips, in particular for obtaining a feeling of softness of the skin and/or the lips and a silky effect, but also for the nutrition, comfort and sheen of the skin and/or the lips.

By virtue of its pleasantness and its effects, the composition of the invention is particularly suitable for treating dehydrated, rough or sensitive skin and/or lips.

Thus, a subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above, for caring for the skin and/or the lips, especially dehydrated skin and/or lips.

A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic treatment process for attenuating the visible or tactile irregularities of the surface of the skin and/or the lips, comprising a topical administration of a composition according to the invention to the skin and/or the lips.

A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips. Preferentially, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, by topical application of the composition to said keratin materials, preferably to moisturize the skin.

A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips. Preferentially, the present invention relates to a cosmetic makeup base process for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, by application of the composition as described in the invention, as a makeup base. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the makeup process may comprise a step of extemporaneous mixing of the composition according to the invention with an adjuvant, followed by application to the keratin materials. A subject of the present invention is also a process for preparing a composition as defined above, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

- - firstly, mixing of a first phase containing an aliphatic monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol, as described previously, with one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, preferably castor oil;

- next, mixing of said first phase with said liquid polyester(s), preferably said polyester(s) of dilinoleic acid and of 1 ,4-butanediol; and said fatty acid ester of polyglycerol which is chosen from a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl chain containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and from 2 to 25 glycerol units, preferably comprising an alkyl chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and 10 to 20 glycerol units, at room temperature. A translucent, homogeneous composition is thus obtained.

The examples that follow will allow the invention to be understood more clearly, without, however, being limiting in nature. The starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name. The amounts indicated are weight percentages of starting materials, unless otherwise mentioned.

Examples

Example 1 : Evaluation of the viscosity and of the sensory properties

Several compositions were prepared and evaluated as regards their viscosity and their sensory properties.

Composition Composition Composition A outside the B outside 1 in

invention the accordance invention with the

invention

Oleic, linoleic, linolenic 45% 0% 20% polyglyceride (quality 10 000)

- complex mixture of lipid

polymers of plant origin (INCI

Polyglycerides) available

under the trade name Viamerine 10000®

Deodorized by Aldivia

Castor oil (INCI name: Ricinus 33% 33% 33%

Communis oil) available under

the trade name Huile de Ricin

Codex by Interchimie

Hydrogenated polyester 0% 45% 25% based on fatty acids and

butanediol (Mw: 1500) (INCI

Acid/Butanediol Copolymer)

available under the trade

name Viscoplast 14436 H® by

Biosynthis

Denatured 96° ethyl alcohol 3% 3% 3%

(INCI name: Denatured

alcohol) available under the

trade name Ethanol S96®

Denature Bitrex tertio by

France Alcools

Concentrate based on alpha- 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% tocopherol (vitamin E) (INCI

under the trade name

Copherol F 1300 C® by BASF

Apricot kernel oil (INCI name: 18.7% 18.7% 18.7% Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil)

available under the trade

name Apricot Kernel Oil

Refined® by Gustave Heess

Method for preparing said compositions

The compositions were prepared according to a process with a deflocculator.

In a first stage, phase A is homogenized in a deflocculator at room temperature. Phase B is then added to phase A in the deflocculator at room temperature. A translucent, homogeneous formulation is obtained after leaving to stand for 12 hours. Method for analysing the viscosity:

Sensory evaluation said compositions

Measurement of the gloss The gloss is measured in the present test by visual evaluation of highlights on the lips.

The gloss measurement may be performed using a glossmeter at 3 angles: 20°, 60° and 85°. The index of light reflected on the product is calculated in Gloss Units (GU). To do this, the formulation is spread on an Erichsen contrast card using a film spreader to a thickness of 100 μιτι. The gloss measurement is taken on the white part of the card.

Measurement of the tack

The term "tack" means the force required to separate the lips from each other.

The evaluation may be performed by detaching the lips only once.

The measurement of the tack may be performed using a texturometer, for example of the reference Tex'An 200. Bioskin end cap type spindles (D = 6 mm) are used to measure the compression force applied as a function of time. The results obtained are thus a curve profile of the compression force (in newtons) relative to the time (in seconds). The tack (J/m²) is calculated from the area under the curve during the shrinkage phase: Area under the curve

Tack = x =

Spindle surface area

Measurement of the staving power of the film

The term "staying power of the film" means the more or less rapid penetration of the product or the thickness of the film on the lips over time. The evaluation is made by pressing the lips together and then sliding them one against the other.

Measurement of the film formation The term "film formation" means the ability of the composition to form a film on the lips. In particular, the thickness of the film is measured by tactile evaluation known as "blotting". Measurement of the glidance

The term "glidance" means the evaluation of the "blotting" of the glidance, i.e. by pressing the lips together and then sliding them one against the other. The ease of moving the lips one against the other, without friction or dragging, is measured. The various aspects of the compositions are evaluated before, after and on application.

Results

It is found that the composition according to comparative example A outside the invention, not comprising a liquid polyester according to the invention, is sparingly glossy, is very tacky and not at all glidant on application, and makes it possible on application to obtain a small amount of film-forming effect, but which is not at all persistent over time. Furthermore, the composition according to comparative example B outside the invention, not comprising any fatty acid ester of polyglycerol according to the invention, is sparingly glossy, has acceptable tack and glidance sensory properties on application, but does not make it possible to obtain a film on application. Surprisingly, only composition 1 comprising at least one liquid polyester and at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol according to the invention is glossy while at the same time having sensory properties, no tackiness and good glidance on application, while at the same time allowing a film which shows good staying power over time.

Example 2: Composition according to the invention; liquid lip oil

y osyn s Fatty acid esters of polyglycerol (INCI name:

Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides) available under the

trade name Viamerine 10000 Deodorized by Aldivia

The composition of Example 2 applied to the lips makes it possible to moisturize the lips while at the same time giving a sparingly tacky and very glidant long-lasting film.

Claims

1 . Composition comprising: a) at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of a dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and of a diol; b) at least one fatty acid ester of polyglycerol which is chosen from a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl chain containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and from 2 to 25 glycerol units; c) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin comprising C12 to C22 alkyl chains; and d) at least one aliphatic monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; characterized in that the total content of said polyester(s) and of said fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol is between 20% and 70% by weight, preferentially between 30% and 60% by weight and even more preferentially between 35% and 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises at least two non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin c) that are different from each other, and/or in that the oil(s) (c) are chosen from triglycerides constituted of fatty acids and of glycerols. 3. Composition according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mass ratio of the total content of said polyester(s) a) relative to the total content of fatty acid ester of polyglycerol b) is between 0.3 and 4, preferentially between 0.6 and 2.3, more preferentially between 1 .1 and 1 .

3.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mass ratio of the total content of said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin (c) relative to the total content [of said polyester(s) a) and of said fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol b)] is between 0.1 and 4.25, preferably between 0.3 and 2.4, even more preferentially between 0.5 and 1 .8, in particular between 0.6 and 1 .5.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol according to the invention have a number-average molar mass (Mn) of between 1700 and 2300 g/mol; and/or a mass-average molar mass (Mw) of between 7000 and 9400 g/mol as polystyrene equivalents, and/or a polydispersity index (Ip) of between 3.5-4.7.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol are chosen from a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an unsaturated alkyl chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and from 2 to 25 glycerol units, preferably from 10 to 20 glycerol units.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is chosen from a fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol with a saponification number of between 150 and 250 KOH/g, preferentially between 170 and 200 KOH/g, and/or is chosen from a fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol with a hydroxyl number of between 20 and 50 mg KOH/g, preferentially between 30 and 45 KOH/g.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said polyester is obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprising 36 carbon atoms and two carboxylic acid functions, and in which the diol of said liquid polyester is a saturated linear diol, preferably a butanediol; in particular, said polyester is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and of 1 ,4-butanediol.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid ester of polyglycerol is present in a content of between 10% to 30% by weight, preferably from 15% to 25% by weight and more preferably from 17% to 23% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said liquid polyester(s) are present in a content of between 10% and 40% by weight, preferably between 15% and 35% by weight, preferably between 20% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

1 1 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said aliphatic monoalcohol is ethanol.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin have a molecular weight of greater than 500 Da.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin comprise: - at least 40% of fatty acid bearing a C12-C24 alkyl chain, preferentially at least 50% of fatty acid bearing a C14-C22 alkyl chain relative to the total weight of fatty acid;

- or at least 60% of fatty acid bearing a C12-C22 alkyl chain, preferentially at least 70% of fatty acid bearing a C16-C20 alkyl chain, even more preferentially at least 80% of fatty acid bearing a C18 alkyl chain, even more preferentially at least 50% of fatty acid bearing a monounsaturated C18 alkyl chain relative to the total weight of fatty acid.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin are chosen from apricot kernel oil, castor oil, and preferably a mixture thereof.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) of plant origin are present in a content of between 10% and 80% by weight, preferentially between 20% and 70% by weight, and even more preferentially between 30% and 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises:

- between 10% and 55% of a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin as defined in c) by weight, more preferentially between 20% and 50% by weight, even more preferentially 33% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, said oil preferentially being castor oil; and between 10% and 25% of a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin as defined in c) by weight, more preferentially between 15% and 20% by weight, even more preferentially 18.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, said oil preferentially being apricot kernel oil.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said aliphatic monoalcohol is present in a content of less than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferentially less than 5% by weight and even more preferentially less than 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a cosmetic composition, in particular of a lip oil, and/or in that it is intended for topical application.

19. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably for caring for and/or making up said keratin materials, comprising a topical administration of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

20. Cosmetic use, by topical application of the composition as defined in one of Claims 1 to 18, for preserving and/or reinforcing the natural barrier function of the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum and/or for moisturizing keratin materials such as the skin and/or the lips.

21 . Process for making up keratin materials, comprising a topical administration of a composition as defined in one of Claims 1 to 18.