WO2016166345A1 - Composition made from trans-resveratrol or from a trans-resveratrol derivative - Google Patents
Composition made from trans-resveratrol or from a trans-resveratrol derivative Download PDFInfo
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- WO2016166345A1 WO2016166345A1 PCT/EP2016/058452 EP2016058452W WO2016166345A1 WO 2016166345 A1 WO2016166345 A1 WO 2016166345A1 EP 2016058452 W EP2016058452 W EP 2016058452W WO 2016166345 A1 WO2016166345 A1 WO 2016166345A1
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- uva
- liposoluble
- uvb
- water
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 180
- LUKBXSAWLPMMSZ-OWOJBTEDSA-N Trans-resveratrol Chemical compound C1=CC(O)=CC=C1\C=C\C1=CC(O)=CC(O)=C1 LUKBXSAWLPMMSZ-OWOJBTEDSA-N 0.000 title abstract description 30
- 235000018991 trans-resveratrol Nutrition 0.000 title abstract description 6
- -1 amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 66
- 239000004904 UV filter Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 43
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 238000001914 filtration Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 229940016667 resveratrol Drugs 0.000 claims description 46
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 32
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 23
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 18
- FMRHJJZUHUTGKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylhexyl salicylate Chemical group CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O FMRHJJZUHUTGKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 17
- 238000012216 screening Methods 0.000 claims description 17
- HUVYTMDMDZRHBN-UHFFFAOYSA-N drometrizole trisiloxane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)CC(C)CC1=CC(C)=CC(N2N=C3C=CC=CC3=N2)=C1O HUVYTMDMDZRHBN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
- JGUMTYWKIBJSTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4,6-bis[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 JGUMTYWKIBJSTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
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- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 8
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- HEAHZSUCFKFERC-IWGRKNQJSA-N [(2e)-2-[[4-[(e)-[7,7-dimethyl-3-oxo-4-(sulfomethyl)-2-bicyclo[2.2.1]heptanylidene]methyl]phenyl]methylidene]-7,7-dimethyl-3-oxo-4-bicyclo[2.2.1]heptanyl]methanesulfonic acid Chemical compound CC1(C)C2CCC1(CS(O)(=O)=O)C(=O)\C2=C\C(C=C1)=CC=C1\C=C/1C(=O)C2(CS(O)(=O)=O)CCC\1C2(C)C HEAHZSUCFKFERC-IWGRKNQJSA-N 0.000 description 8
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- BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxobismuth;hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.[Bi]=O BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004430 oxygen atom Chemical group O* 0.000 description 1
- SOQBVABWOPYFQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxygen(2-);titanium(4+) Chemical class [O-2].[O-2].[Ti+4] SOQBVABWOPYFQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N papa-hydroxy-benzoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000020232 peanut Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940031709 peg-30-dipolyhydroxystearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XYJRXVWERLGGKC-UHFFFAOYSA-D pentacalcium;hydroxide;triphosphate Chemical compound [OH-].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O XYJRXVWERLGGKC-UHFFFAOYSA-D 0.000 description 1
- 125000003538 pentan-3-yl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)CO WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002085 persistent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003013 phosphoric acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000008845 photoaging Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003711 photoprotective effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000419 plant extract Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005014 poly(hydroxyalkanoate) Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920003217 poly(methylsilsesquioxane) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000058 polyacrylate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000006068 polycondensation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920006294 polydialkylsiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000570 polyether Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000903 polyhydroxyalkanoate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000193 polymethacrylate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229920001184 polypeptide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000008442 polyphenolic compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000013824 polyphenols Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920006389 polyphenyl polymer Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229920001155 polypropylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940100498 polysilicone-15 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920002282 polysilicones-15 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002223 polystyrene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000166 polytrimethylene carbonate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002451 polyvinyl alcohol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000019422 polyvinyl alcohol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920000915 polyvinyl chloride Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011148 porous material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011591 potassium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052700 potassium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- RMGVATURDVPNOZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M potassium;hexadecyl hydrogen phosphate Chemical compound [K+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOP(O)([O-])=O RMGVATURDVPNOZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011164 primary particle Substances 0.000 description 1
- 102000004196 processed proteins & peptides Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108090000765 processed proteins & peptides Proteins 0.000 description 1
- XATKDVHSLQMHSY-RMKNXTFCSA-N propan-2-yl (e)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(\C=C\C(=O)OC(C)C)C=C1 XATKDVHSLQMHSY-RMKNXTFCSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003380 propellant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 229960004889 salicylic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 125000002914 sec-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000003548 sec-pentyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 150000003377 silicon compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052814 silicon oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229920002379 silicone rubber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940010747 sodium hyaluronate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2-[(2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-6-[(2r,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2- Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZUFONQSOSYEWCN-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-(methylamino)acetate Chemical compound [Na+].CNCC([O-])=O ZUFONQSOSYEWCN-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- FWFUWXVFYKCSQA-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-methyl-2-(prop-2-enoylamino)propane-1-sulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]S(=O)(=O)CC(C)(C)NC(=O)C=C FWFUWXVFYKCSQA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- NHZIBLPDGIARQC-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;4-hydroxy-5-(2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzoyl)-2-methoxybenzenesulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].OC1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC(S([O-])(=O)=O)=C(OC)C=C1O NHZIBLPDGIARQC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229950004959 sorbitan oleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000007921 spray Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000001629 stilbenes Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000035882 stress Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000008163 sugars Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000036561 sun exposure Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004381 surface treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001059 synthetic polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 125000000999 tert-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C(*)(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000001973 tert-pentyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C(*)(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012956 testing procedure Methods 0.000 description 1
- OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetratriacontyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000008719 thickening Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000003813 thumb Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229960001295 tocopherol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000699 topical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- QURCVMIEKCOAJU-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-isoferulic acid Natural products COC1=CC=C(C=CC(O)=O)C=C1O QURCVMIEKCOAJU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000009466 transformation Effects 0.000 description 1
- QORWJWZARLRLPR-UHFFFAOYSA-H tricalcium bis(phosphate) Chemical compound [Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O QORWJWZARLRLPR-UHFFFAOYSA-H 0.000 description 1
- GBXQPDCOMJJCMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M trimethyl-[6-(trimethylazaniumyl)hexyl]azanium;bromide Chemical compound [Br-].C[N+](C)(C)CCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C GBXQPDCOMJJCMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris Chemical compound OCC(N)(CO)CO LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UEVAMYPIMMOEFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N trolamine salicylate Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO.OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O UEVAMYPIMMOEFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960000281 trometamol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000014101 wine Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc stearate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229910052726 zirconium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002888 zwitterionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
- A61K31/045—Hydroxy compounds, e.g. alcohols; Salts thereof, e.g. alcoholates
- A61K31/05—Phenols
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
- A61K31/33—Heterocyclic compounds
- A61K31/395—Heterocyclic compounds having nitrogen as a ring hetero atom, e.g. guanethidine or rifamycins
- A61K31/53—Heterocyclic compounds having nitrogen as a ring hetero atom, e.g. guanethidine or rifamycins having six-membered rings with three nitrogens as the only ring hetero atoms, e.g. chlorazanil, melamine
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/347—Phenols
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
- A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4966—Triazines or their condensed derivatives
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
- A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
- A61P17/18—Antioxidants, e.g. antiradicals
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
Definitions
- composition based on fmra.s'-resveratrol or a derivative of trans-resveratrol
- the present invention relates to the field of compositions comprising ira? -Resveratrol and / or at least one derivative of iraws'-resveratrol in particular as an antioxidant, anti-aging or depigmenting agent.
- Resveratrol is a polyphenol of the class of stilbenes that exists cis form and trans form shown below.
- Iraws-Resveratrol is known to have many biological properties such as anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory or antitumor activity.
- iraws'-resveratrol is a photosensitive molecule that irreversibly transforms into its cis isomer under light exposure, whereas the trans isomer is the most active form.
- the inventors have found that it is possible to obtain such a composition, by introducing at least one particular UVA filter and at least one additional UV filter into said composition.
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition
- a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least iraws'-resveratrol and / or at least one derivative of iraws'-resveratrol, and a filter system comprising a) at least one long UVA filter, liposoluble 2-hydroxybenzophenone substituted amino and b) at least one UV filter selected from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents, liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic screening agents, mineral filters and / or mixtures thereof .
- compositions according to the invention have an SPF greater than or equal to 25, preferably from 30 to 75 and a PPD greater than or equal to 8, preferably from 10 to 30.
- iraws'-resveratrol or derivative of iraws'-resveratrol is present in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the composition according to the invention is characterized in that the SPF / PPD ratio ranges from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.5 to 4.5 and better still from 2 to 4.
- the invention relates to a method for stabilizing, in particular photostabilization, a composition comprising iraws'-resveratrol and / or at least one trans -resveratrol derivative comprising a step in which one adds to said composition a filtering system comprising a) at least one long UVA filter liposoluble 2-hydroxybenzophenone substituted amino and b) at least one UV filter selected from water-soluble UVA organic filters, liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filters, mineral filters and / or their mixtures.
- the SPF of said composition is brought to a value greater than or equal to 25 and the PPD of the composition is brought to a value greater than or equal to 8.
- the invention also relates to the use of a filtering system comprising at least one long UVA-soluble liposoluble 2-hydroxybenzophenone amino filter and b) at least one UV-screening agent chosen from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents and liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic screening agents.
- the mineral filters and / or their mixtures for stabilizing in particular photostabilize a composition comprising iraws'-resveratrol and / or at least one derivative of trans -resveratrol.
- This use comprising in particular the addition to said composition of said filter system in an amount such that the SPF of the composition is brought to a value greater than or equal to 25 and the PPD of the composition is brought to a value greater than or equal to 8.
- long UVA filter in the sense of the present invention is meant an organic compound filtering absorbing UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 300 and 400 nm and more particularly from 340 to 400 nm.
- the term "derivative of iraws'-resveratrol” means the esters, glucosides and phosphates of irar-3-verertrol. These compounds all have the same biological properties as trans-resveratrol and are trans-stereochemistry. Like iraws'-resveratrol, they are photosensitive, and irreversibly transform into their cis isomer under light exposure.
- water-soluble organic UV filter any organic or inorganic compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the state molecular or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or to be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
- liposoluble organic UV filter any organic or inorganic compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state or miscible in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in the form of micellar) in a liquid fatty phase.
- iraws'-resveratrol trans-resveratrol or at least one derivative of iraws'-resveratrol or a mixture of iraws'-resveratrol and derivative (s) of iraws-resveratrol.
- stable composition in the sense of the present invention is meant a composition in which the iraws'-resveratrol is degraded little in particular under light exposure, in particular by transformation into its cis isomer.
- a stable composition according to the invention comprises at least 85% by weight of resveratrol, advantageously at least 90% by weight of resveratrol, in particular at least 95% by weight of resveratrol relative to the total weight of resveratrol initially introduced into the composition.
- SPF Sun Protection Factor
- the SPF value is the ratio of the minimum duration of sunburn to an antisolar composition to the one without a product. It is expressed mathematically by the ratio of the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold with the UV filter on the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold without UV filter. This factor therefore concerns the effectiveness of the protection whose biological action spectrum is centered in the UVB and therefore, accounts for the protection with respect to this UV-B radiation.
- the PPD method Persistent
- Pigment Darkening which measures the skin color observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure of the skin to UV-A, is particularly recommended and used. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official testing procedure for UV-A labeling of products and is frequently used by testing laboratories in Europe and the United States; (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin, Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy, Issued November 21, 1995 and efective of January 1, 1996).
- JCIA Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association
- the UVA PPD sun protection factor (FP UVAppd) is expressed mathematically by the ratio of the UV-A radiation dose required to reach the UV filter pigmentation threshold (MPPDp) on the UV-A radiation dose required for reach the threshold of pigmentation without UV filter (MPPDnp).
- FP U VA PPD ⁇ 3 ⁇ 4
- the present application also relates, in another of its aspects, to the cosmetic use of an effective amount of a composition comprising trans-resveratrol or at least one derivative of iraws'-resveratrol as defined above, for combating cutaneous signs of aging, particularly induced by oxidative stress.
- the oxidative stress is particularly related to external agents such as ultraviolet radiation, pollution, heat stress or various toxins such as chemicals with which the skin may be in contact (tobacco, heavy metals, air pollutants, etc.).
- the use according to the invention aims to attenuate the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular the signs of cutaneous aging of actinic origin such as photo-aging.
- the cutaneous signs of aging in particular induced by oxidative stress, in particular of actinic origin, mention is made in particular of a loss of firmness and / or of elasticity and / or of tonicity and / or of flexibility of the skin, the formation wrinkles and fine lines, expression lines, in particular at the level of the forehead and the intersuracillary space, the wrinkles and / or perioral banules, and / or the relaxation at the level of the contour of the lips, in particular at the level of level of the white lip (area between the upper lip and the nose), a dullness of the complexion, the papery aspect of the skin. This use will be especially for people with mature skin, or very mature.
- mature skin in particular persons having at least 40 years.
- very mature skin in particular persons having at least 50 years, in particular at least 60 years, or even 65 years.
- Expression lines are produced under the effect of the stress exerted on the skin by the skin muscles which allow mimicry. Depending on the shape of the face, the frequency of mimicry and possible tics, they can appear from childhood. Some environmental factors such as oxidative stress, sun exposure, and age do not interfere in their genesis but can dig them further and make them permanent. Expression lines are characterized by the presence of furrows around the orifices of the nose (nasolabial folds), the mouth (para-buccal wrinkles and so-called bitterness wrinkles) and the eyes (wrinkles of the paw d 'oie), around which lie the skin muscles, as well as between the eyebrows (wrinkles of the glabella or the lion) and on the forehead.
- the papery appearance of the skin is characterized by a change in the visual appearance, as well as the resistance to touch, of the skin. Specifically, the skin visually looks like a cigarette paper giving it an appearance similar to that of a papyrus leaf. In addition, when it is slightly pinched between the thumb and forefinger, the skin forms fine folds, acute and numerous having the appearance of a crumpled paper. Finally, the touch of the skin shows that its superficial parts are like floating on the deep parts, giving the skin, at the very advanced stage of papery appearance, the appearance of a crumpled paper. The papery appearance of the skin is visible on the face and even more characteristic on the back of the hands of the elderly.
- the compositions according to the invention for preventing and / or smoothing expression lines will be applied to the face.
- compositions according to the invention intended to prevent and / or treat the papery appearance of the skin will be applied in particular on the back of the hands.
- compositions according to the invention intended to reduce the appearance and / or the visibility of the pores will be applied in particular at the level of the zone T (forehead, nose, cheeks, chin).
- antioxidant active agents may be useful in anti-aging compositions or in depigmenting compositions.
- the use according to the invention may also be more particularly intended for people with oily skin.
- compositions in accordance with the invention may be makeup or care products for keratinous substances, in particular the skin.
- the makeup products may be of the foundation type, blushers or eyeshadow, anti-ring products, blush, or a product for body makeup or skin coloring.
- the skincare products may be a protection, treatment or care composition for the face, for the hands, for the feet, for large anatomical folds or for the body, for example, day creams, night cream, sunscreen composition, body care or care milks, after-sun milks, lotion, gel or mousse for skin care, artificial tanning composition; or an aftershave composition.
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the skin and / or its integuments intended to prevent and / or treat cutaneous aging, in particular induced by oxidative stress, comprising at least one step of applying to a skin and / or or its integuments exhibiting signs of cutaneous aging induced by oxidative stress, at least one effective amount of at least one composition according to the invention.
- the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or the homogeneity of the complexion, comprising the application to the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined previously.
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method of the skin and / or its integuments, aimed at protecting the skin and / or its integuments from the effects of oxidative stress, in particular the effects of UV radiation, and / or toxins. and / or pollution, comprising at least one step of applying to the skin and / or its integuments at least an effective amount of at least one composition according to the invention.
- the composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application.
- skin is meant the skin of the face and / or the body, the scalp and the semi-mucous membranes (lips). Preferably, it will be the skin of the face and / or body and / or lips.
- ander means hair, hair, eyelashes, nails, and preferably hair.
- oxidative stress covers all the damage caused in a subject by free radicals.
- Resveratrol exists naturally in its cis and trans form, but also in other forms such as a glucosylated form. It is present in many plants and fruits. It is found especially in the Japanese knotweed (Fallopia japonica also known as Polygonum cupistadum or Reynoutria japonica) or in grapes such as those from the vine Vitis vinifera. More particularly, for example, resveratrol is found in blackberries, wine or peanuts.
- resveratrol is found in the following families of plants: Vitaceae, Myrtaceae, Dipterocarpaceae, Cyperaceae, Gnetaceae, Fabaceae, Pinaceae, Polygonaceae, Moraceae, Fagaceae, Liliaceae ...
- the iraws'-resveratrol present in the composition according to the invention may be of synthetic, natural origin or may be in the form of a plant extract containing iraws-resveratrol.
- said iraws'-resveratrol and / or at least one derivative of iraws'-resveratrol is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the term “content” means active material.
- the present invention also provides a process for preparing said composition.
- the composition comprises at least one amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone liposoluble long UVA filter.
- amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone compounds according to the invention are preferably chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I):
- R and R which are identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical, a C 2 -C 20 alkenyl, a C 3 -C 10 cycloalkyl or a C 3 -C 10 cycloalkenyl radical or form with nitrogen atom with which they are bound a 5- or 6-membered ring;
- R denotes an alkyl diradical, a cycloalkyl diradical, an alkenyl diradical or an aryl diradical or R with E form a diradical of formula (II):
- n 3
- R is an alkyl triradical
- E is -O-, or -N (R 4 ) - or N; R 4 is hydrogen, alkyl C 1 -C 5 hydroxyalkyl or C 1 -C 5.
- C 1 -C 20 alkyl radicals examples include: methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, 1-methylethyl, n-butyl, 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, 1,1-dimethylethyl, n-pentyl, 1-methylbutyl, 2-methylbutyl, 3-methylbutyl, 2,2-dimethylpropyl, 1-ethylpropyl, n-hexyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 1,2-dimethylpropyl, 1-methylpentyl, 2-methylpentyl, 3-methylpentyl, 4-methylpentyl, 1,1-dimethylbutyl, 1,2-dimethylbutyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 2,2-dimethylbutyl, 2,3-dimethylbutyl, 3,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-ethylbutyl, 2-ethylbutyl, 1, 2,2-trimethylpropyl
- C 3 -C 10 cycloalkyl radicals which may be mentioned include: cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, 1-methylcyclopropyl, 1-ethylcyclopropyl, 1-propylcyclopropyl, 1-butylcyclopropyl, 1-pentylcyclopropyl, 1-methyl- 1-Butylcyclopropyl, 1, 2-dimethylcyclypropyl, 1-methyl-2-ethylcyclopropyl, cyclooctyl, cyclononyl or cyclodecyl.
- C 3 -C 10 cycloalkenyl radicals having one or more double bonds mention may be made of: cyclopropenyl, cyclobutenyl, cyclopentenyl, cyclopentadienyl, cyclohexenyl, 1,3-cyclohexadienyl, 1,4-cyclohexadienyl, cycloheptenyl, cycloheptatrienyl, cyclooctenyl, 1, 5-cyclooctadienyl, cyclooctatetraenyl, cyclononenyl or cyclodecenyl.
- Examples of a 5- or 6-membered ring formed by the radicals R 1 and R 2 with the nitrogen atom include, in particular, pyrrolidine or piperidine.
- This compound is advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 ⁇ ) obtainable for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303. 549 and EP-A-893119 and more particularly in the form of an aqueous dispersion.
- the compounds of formula (I) as defined above are known per se and their structures and their syntheses are described in patent applications EP-A-1046391, EPI 133980, DE10012408 and WO 2007071584.
- the filter (s) UVA-long liposoluble 2-hydroxybenzophenone aminosubstituted are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention at contents which preferably vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.25 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional UV filter chosen from UVA organic filters.
- UVA organic filters water-soluble, liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic screening agents, mineral filters and / or mixtures thereof,
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional UV filter chosen from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one UV filter chosen from the liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic screening agents.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter and at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter and optionally at least one mineral filter.
- the composition may also comprise, in addition to the filters defined according to b), at least water-soluble organic UVB screening agents, liposoluble UVB organic screening agents, liposoluble UVA screening agents and mixtures thereof.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter and at least one liposoluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter and at least one liposoluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter, at least one liposoluble organic UVB filter and at least one water-soluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one filter. mineral.
- the UVA filter (s) according to the present invention may be chosen from the following filters.
- Camphor compounds such as Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SX” by Chimex,
- said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is chosen from the water-soluble compounds of camphor and their mixtures.
- said at least one UVA filter is terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid.
- a composition according to the invention is characterized in that the said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is present in a content ranging from 1 to 20, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .
- the UVB filter (s) according to the present invention may be selected from the following filters.
- Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA (ESCALOL 507 from ISP); Salicylic compounds:
- Ethylhexyl salicylate sold in particular under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS” by SYMRISE;
- Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold in particular under the name “DIPSAL” by
- Etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35 by
- Methylbenzylidene camphor sold in particular under the name “Eusolex 6300” by Merck;
- Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF;
- UVASORB HEB Diethylhexylbutamido triazone sold in particular under the trade name "UVASORB HEB” by SIGMA 3V;
- Benzalmalonate-functional polyorganosiloxanes such as Polysilicone-15 sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL SLX” by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.;
- PABA p-aminobenzoic acid
- PEG-25 PABA sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul P25 by BASF.
- Phenylbenzimidzaole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by Merck,
- camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SO" by CHIMEX.
- said at least one water-soluble UVB filter is selected from Phenylbenzimidzaole Sulfonic Acid.
- a composition according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVB filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 8, in particular from 1 to 5, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- said at least one UVB filter included in a composition according to the invention is a liposoluble UVB filter.
- said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is selected from salicylic compounds, cinnamates, ⁇ , ⁇ '-diphenylacrylate compounds, triazine compounds and mixtures thereof.
- said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is selected from ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone and mixtures thereof. More particularly said liposoluble UVB filter is selected from ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl salicylate and mixtures thereof.
- a composition according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20, in particular from 1 to 15, and preferably from 1.2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- said organic filter system used in the invention comprises one or more mixed filter (s) UVA-UVB.
- Said at least one mixed UVA-UVB filter may be chosen from the following filters. 1) UVA and UVB mixed liposoluble filters
- the UVA - UVB mixed liposoluble filters are preferably chosen from benzophenone compounds; phenylbenzotriazole compounds; methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; bis-resorcinyl triazine compounds as described in application EP0775698; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in US Pat. No.
- UVINUL400® Benzophenone-1 sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL400®" by BASF;
- Benzophenone-2 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul D 50® by BASF;
- Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul M 40®” by BASF;
- Benzophenone-8 sold in particular under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24®” by American Cyanamid;
- Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol sold in solid form in particular under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion, especially under the trade name "TINOSORB M” by CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS;
- Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol sold in solid form in particular under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100®" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 ⁇ m and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 ⁇ and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 ⁇ with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure CnH2n + 1 O (C6H10O5) xH in which n is an integer of 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6H10O5) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 as described in GB-A-2 303 549 sold especially under the trade name "TINOSORB M®” by BASF or in the form of a aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 ⁇ and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 ⁇
- the liposoluble mixed UVA-UVB filters are preferably chosen from phenylbenzotriazole compounds and benzophenone compounds, in particular benzophenone-3, drometrizole trisiloxane and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, especially in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles, and even more particularly phenylbenzotriazole compounds such as Drometrizole Trisiloxane
- Benzophenone-4 sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL MS
- said at least one mixed UVA-UVB filter according to the invention is a fat-soluble filter.
- said mixed UVA-UVB filter is chosen from phenyl benzotriazole compounds and bis-resorcinyl triazine compounds, more preferably it is chosen from trisiloxane drometrizole, and mixtures thereof.
- a composition according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20, in particular from 1 to 15, and preferably from 1 to at 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- a composition of the invention is characterized in that it comprises a substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone amino compound, at least one filter selected from terephthalylidene dicamphersulfonic acid, drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
- the composition according to the invention additionally comprises the aminosubstituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone compound, ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150), Drometzole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX), phenylbenzimidazole, ethylhexyl salicylate with or without TiO 2 treated or untreated on the surface.
- the aminosubstituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone compound ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150), Drometzole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX), phenylbenzimidazole, ethylhexyl salicylate with or without TiO 2 treated or untreated on the surface.
- the composition according to the invention additionally comprises the aminosubstituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone compound, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, drometrazole trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), bisulfite Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S), Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX), with or without TiO2 treated or untreated on the surface.
- the aminosubstituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone compound ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, drometrazole trisiloxane
- Teinosorb S bisulfite Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
- Mosorb SX Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
- composition according to the invention comprises the following UV filter mixtures by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
- Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid from 1 to 5% of ethylhexyl salicylate, from 0.5 to 5 of phenylbenzimidazole, and from 2 to 8% of TiO 2 treated or not surface-treated by weight relative to the total weight composition;
- composition according to the invention may further comprise additives, for example inorganic filters, active agents, fillers, fats, polymers or silicones.
- additives for example inorganic filters, active agents, fillers, fats, polymers or silicones.
- Inorganic filters or minerals
- the inorganic filters are chosen from coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments, the average size of the primary particles of which is preferably between 5 nm and 100 nm (preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm), such as for example titanium (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and / or anatase form), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium which are all UV photoprotective agents well known per se.
- the pigments can be coated or uncoated.
- the coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
- a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants
- the silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and essentially constituted by a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly bonded via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.
- silicones also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkyl silanes.
- the silicones used for coating the pigments suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from the group containing alkyl silanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes. Even more preferentially, the silicones are chosen from the group containing octyl trimethyl silane, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydro-genosiloxanes.
- the metal oxide pigments before their treatment with silicones may have been treated with other surfactants, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.
- coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: - silica such as the product "SUNVEIL” from the company IKEDA and the product
- silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA” and “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA” from TAYCA, "TIOVEIL” from TIOXIDE, and "Mirasun TiW 60" from Rhodia,
- alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)” and “TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)” from the company ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from the company KEMIRA,
- alumina and aluminum stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 TV, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01 from TAYCA, the products
- silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ” from the company Tayca, alumina and aluminum laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S” from TAYCA,
- iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F from TAYCA, zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product BR351 from the company
- silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS", “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS” or “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS” from the company TAYCA, - silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product "STT-30-DS" from the company TITAN KOGYO,
- silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195" from KEMIRA, or the product SMT-100 WRS from TAYCA.
- stearic acid such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)” from the company ISHIHARA, sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W” from the company TAYCA.
- titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are preferably TiO 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane and whose average elementary particle size is between 25 and 40 nm, such as that sold under the trade name " T 805 "by the company DEGUSSA SILICES, the TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and whose average elementary particle size is 21 nm, such as that sold under the trade name” 70250 Cardre UF Ti02SI3 "by CARDRE, TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane and whose average elementary particle size is 25 nm such as that sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES.
- Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B” or “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", by the company DEGUSSA under the name “P 25”, by the WACKHER company under the name “Titanium oxide transparent PW ", by the company MIYOSHI KASEI under the name” UFTR ", by the company TOMEN under the name” ITS "and by the company TIOXIDE under the name” TIOVEIL AQ ".
- the uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those marketed under the name "Z-cote” by the company Sunsmart;
- Nanogard WCD 2025 those marketed under the name “Nanogard WCD 2025” by Nanophase Technologies;
- coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those sold under the name "Z-COTE HP1" by the company.
- Zinc Oxide CS-5" those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane);
- Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN those marketed under the name “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN” by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate);
- Uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold for example under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE” by the company RHONE POULENC.
- Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", “NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ”, “NANOGARD FE 45R AQ,” NANOGARD WCD 2006 ( FE 45R) ", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name” TY-220 "The coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company
- NANOGARD WCD 2008 FE 45B FN
- NANOGARD WCD 2009 FE 45B 556
- NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345" NANOGARD FE 45 BL
- TRANSPARENT IRON OXIDE TRANSPARENT IRON OXIDE
- composition according to the invention may also comprise, as inorganic filters, composite particles.
- the composite particles usable according to the present invention comprise a matrix and an inorganic UV filter.
- the matrix comprises one or more organic and / or inorganic materials.
- the inorganic UV filter is generally chosen from metal oxides.
- the matrix consists essentially of organic and / or inorganic material.
- the inorganic materials that can be used in the matrix according to the present invention are chosen from the group formed by mica, synthetic mica, talc, sericite, boron nitride, glass, calcium carbonate, barium sulphate hydroxyapatite, silica, silicate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium trisilicate, aluminum oxide, aluminum silicate, calcium silicate, calcium phosphate, oxide magnesium, bismuth oxychloride, kaolin, hydrotalcite, mineral clays, synthetic clays and mixtures thereof.
- the organic materials that can be used to form the matrix are chosen from the group formed by poly (meth) acrylates, polyamides, silicones, polyurethanes, polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polystyrenes, polyhydroxyalkanoates, polycaprolactams, poly (butylene) succinates, polysaccharides, polypeptides, polyvinylalcohols, polyvinyl resins, fluoropolymers, waxes, polyesters, polyethers, and mixtures thereof.
- the inorganic UV filters that can be used in the composite particle are chosen from metal oxides.
- these metal oxides are selected from titanium dioxide TiO 2 , zinc oxide ZnO, and iron oxide FeO.
- the inorganic UV filter is TiO 2 .
- These metal oxides can be in the form of particles, of average size generally less than 0.2 ⁇ .
- the TiO 2 particles used have an average size less than or equal to 0.1 ⁇ .
- metal oxides can also be in the form of layers, preferably multilayer of average thickness generally less than 0.2 ⁇ .
- the content of composite particles of the composition according to the invention ranges from 1 to 70, preferably 1.5 to 45, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the composite particles that can be used according to the invention are preferably spherical.
- They can be hollow, smooth, rough, or porous.
- the composite particles When the composite particles are in spherical form, they are characterized by an average diameter of between 0.1 ⁇ m and 30 ⁇ m, preferably between 0.2 ⁇ m and 20 ⁇ m and more preferably between 0.3 ⁇ m and 10 ⁇ m, advantageously between 0.5 ⁇ and 10 ⁇ .
- spherical is meant that the particle has a sphericity index, that is to say the ratio between its largest diameter and its smallest diameter, less than 1.2.
- the composite particles contain a matrix comprising an organic and / or inorganic material in which particles of inorganic UV filter are included.
- the composite particles consist of a matrix comprising an organic and / or inorganic material in which particles of inorganic UV filter are included.
- the matrix has inclusions and inorganic UV filter particles are placed in the inclusions of the matrix.
- the composite particles are spherical and have inclusions in which particles of inorganic UV filter are placed.
- composite particles By way of composite particles corresponding to this variant, mention may be made of the Sunsil TIN 50 and Sunsil TIN 40 products marketed by SUNJIN CHEMICAL. These spherical composite particles of average size between 2 and 7 ⁇ are formed of Ti0 2 encapsulated in a silica matrix.
- the composite particles contain a matrix made of an organic and / or inorganic material covered with at least one inorganic UV filter layer that can be connected to the matrix by means of a binder.
- the matrix particles are, preferably, of spherical shape.
- the average thickness of the inorganic UV filter layer is generally about ten nanometers.
- the average thickness of the inorganic UV filter layer is advantageously between 10 " and 0.2 ⁇ , preferably between 10 " 2 and 0.2 ⁇ .
- the composite particles contain an inorganic UV filter coated with at least one layer of an organic and / or inorganic material.
- the particles of inorganic UV filter are characterized by an average elementary size generally between 10 " and 0.2 ⁇
- the particles of metal oxides used have an average elementary size of between 10 " and 0, 1 ⁇ .
- the matrix may be formed of one or more organic or inorganic materials. It can then be a continuous phase of materials such as an alloy, that is to say a continuous phase in which the materials are no longer dissociable, or a discontinuous phase of materials, for example consisting of an organic or inorganic material covered with a layer of another organic or inorganic material different.
- the composite particles may furthermore be covered with an additional coating, in particular chosen from biodegradable or biocompatible materials, lipid materials such as by Examples are surfactants or emulsifiers, polymers, and oxides.
- the composite particles used according to the invention have a size of between 0.1 and 30 ⁇ , preferably between 0.5 and 20 ⁇ and more preferably between 0.3 and 10 ⁇ , advantageously between 0.5 and 10 ⁇ .
- the UV filter used in the composite particle is Ti0 2 or a mixture of Ti0 2 and ZnO.
- the matrix of the spherical composite particle contains a material or a mixture of materials chosen from: - Si0 2,
- polyamides such as nylons.
- composite particles By way of composite particles corresponding to this variant, mention may be made of the Sunsil TIN 50 and Sunsil TIN 40 products marketed by SUNJIN CHEMICAL. These spherical composite particles of average size between 2 and 7 ⁇ are formed of TiO2 encapsulated in a silica matrix.
- the inorganic filters are chosen from titanium dioxide, optionally coated with aluminum hydroxide and stearic acid, titanium dioxide optionally coated with stearic acid and alumina, and mixtures thereof.
- the at least one inorganic filter is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight. weight, preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, and in particular from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the compositions in accordance with the present invention may furthermore comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, chosen in particular from organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients and silicones.
- defoamers perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient normally used in the field cosmetic and / or dermatological.
- organic solvents mention may be made of lower alcohols and polyols. These can be selected from glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol or hexylene glycol.
- glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol or hexylene glycol.
- hydrophilic thickeners mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-C14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic ; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as Poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trademark "Hostacerin AMPS®” ( CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIM
- lipophilic thickeners of synthetic polymers such as the poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylates sold under the name "IPA INTELIMER 13-1" and "INTELIMER IPA 13-6” by the company Landec, or modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, such as the products marketed under the Bentone name.
- compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They may be in particular in the form of direct, inverse or multiple emulsion (O / W, W / O, O / W / H or W / O / W). They may optionally be packaged in an aerosol and be in the form of a spray.
- compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion and more particularly oil-in-water emulsions.
- the emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
- the emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).
- the emulsions may also contain other types of stabilizers, for example fillers, gelling or thickening polymers.
- emulsifying surfactants that may be used for the preparation of W / O emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol or of sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as dimethicone and PEG / polypropylene glycol (PPG) 18/18 dimethicone, sold under the name "X-22-6711D" by Shin Etsu, and alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning; cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name AB
- co-emulsifiers may also be added, which advantageously may be chosen from the group comprising alkylated polyol esters or emulsifying silicone elastomers, such as the mixture of dimethicone and cross-linked dimethicone / PEG polymer. -10/15 sold under the name "KSG-210".
- Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel PI 35 by the company ICI.
- glycerol and / or sorbitan esters examples include polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
- emulsifiers for example, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) such as the mixture PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate marketed for example by the company ICI under the Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names
- APG alkylpolyglucosides
- the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in WO- A-92/06778.
- a self-emulsifying composition as described, for example, in WO- A-92/06778.
- Example 1 Compositions in Accordance with the Invention
- compositions are prepared by mixing the following ingredients: Example 1 (% Example 2
- UVINUL T 150 Ethylhexyl triazone
- silica microspheres (SUNSIL TIN 50 of 6
- the emulsions of Examples 1 and 2 are fine, homogeneous, shiny, smooth and stable over time.
- resveratrol (1) The residual percentage of resveratrol is measured after an exposure of the composition at 5 J / cm 2 of UV, which corresponds to a daily dose.
- compositions according to the invention have a residual percentage of resveratrol after exposure of the composition to 5 J / cm 2 of UV, very high which means that the latter degrades very little in contact with daylight.
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Abstract
The invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least trans-resveratrol and/or at least one trans-resveratrol derivative, and a filtering system comprising at least one amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone long UVA filter and at least one additional UV filter chosen from water-soluble organic UVA filters, liposoluble mixed organic UVA-UVB filters, mineral filters and/or mixtures thereof. The invention also relates to a use of a filtering system comprising at least one amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone long UVA filter and at least one additional UV filter chosen from water-soluble organic UVA filters, water-soluble organic UVB filters, mineral filters and/or mixtures thereof in order to stabilise, and in particular to photostabilise, a composition comprising trans-resveratrol and/or at least one trans-resveratrol derivative.
Description
Composition à base de fmra.s'-resvératrol ou d'un dérivé de trans-resvératrol Composition based on fmra.s'-resveratrol or a derivative of trans-resveratrol
La présente invention se rapporte au domaine des compositions comprenant du iraw^-resvératrol et/ou au moins un dérivé du iraws'-resvératrol en particulier à titre d'agent antioxydant, anti-âge ou dépigmentant. The present invention relates to the field of compositions comprising ira? -Resveratrol and / or at least one derivative of iraws'-resveratrol in particular as an antioxidant, anti-aging or depigmenting agent.
Le resvératrol est un polyphénol de la classe des stilbènes qui existe forme cis et une forme trans représentées ci-dessous. Resveratrol is a polyphenol of the class of stilbenes that exists cis form and trans form shown below.
trans- resvé rat ro I cis- resvé rat ro I transregulated rat ro I cis- resected rat ro I
Le iraws-resvératrol est connu pour avoir de nombreuses propriétés biologiques telles qu'une activité anti-oxydante, anti-inflammatoire ou antitumorale. Iraws-Resveratrol is known to have many biological properties such as anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory or antitumor activity.
Cependant, le iraws'-resvératrol est une molécule photosensible qui se transforme de manière irréversible en son isomère cis sous exposition à la lumière, or l'isomère trans est la forme la plus active. However, iraws'-resveratrol is a photosensitive molecule that irreversibly transforms into its cis isomer under light exposure, whereas the trans isomer is the most active form.
Ainsi, il demeure un besoin de disposer d'une composition contenant du trans- réservatrol, stable notamment à la lumière. Thus, there remains a need to have a composition containing trans-reservatrol, stable in particular to light.
Les inventeurs ont constaté qu'il était possible d'obtenir une telle composition, en introduisant au moins un filtre UVA particulier et au moins un filtre UV additionnel au sein de ladite composition. The inventors have found that it is possible to obtain such a composition, by introducing at least one particular UVA filter and at least one additional UV filter into said composition.
Ainsi, selon un premier de ses aspects, la présente invention a pour objet une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins du iraws'-resvératrol et/ou au moins un dérivé de iraws'-resvératrol, et un système filtrant comprenant a) au moins un filtre UVA long liposoluble 2- hydroxybenzophenone amino substitué et b) au moins un filtre UV choisi parmi les filtres organiques UVA hydrosolubles, les filtres organiques mixtes UVA-UVB liposolubles, les filtres minéraux et/ou leurs mélanges. Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least iraws'-resveratrol and / or at least one derivative of iraws'-resveratrol, and a filter system comprising a) at least one long UVA filter, liposoluble 2-hydroxybenzophenone substituted amino and b) at least one UV filter selected from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents, liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic screening agents, mineral filters and / or mixtures thereof .
De préférence, les compositions selon l'invention possèdent un SPF supérieur ou égal à 25, de préférence de 30 à 75 et un PPD supérieur ou égal à 8, de préférence de 10 à 30. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention have an SPF greater than or equal to 25, preferably from 30 to 75 and a PPD greater than or equal to 8, preferably from 10 to 30.
De préférence, le iraws'-resvératrol ou dérivé de iraws'-resvératrol est présent dans une teneur allant de 0,001 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.
En particulier, la composition selon l'invention, est caractérisée en ce que le rapport SPF/PPD va de 1 à 5, de préférence, de 1,5 à 4,5 et mieux de 2 à 4. Preferably, iraws'-resveratrol or derivative of iraws'-resveratrol is present in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention is characterized in that the SPF / PPD ratio ranges from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.5 to 4.5 and better still from 2 to 4.
Selon un deuxième aspect, l'invention vise un procédé de stabilisation, en particulier de photostabilisation, d'une composition comprenant du iraws'-resvératrol et/ou au moins un dérivé de trans -resvératrol comprenant une étape lors de laquelle on ajoute à ladite composition un système filtrant comprenant a) au moins un filtre UVA long liposoluble 2- hydroxybenzophenone amino substitué et b) au moins un filtre UV choisi parmi les filtres organiques UVA hydrosolubles, les filtres organiques mixtes UVA-UVB liposolubles, les filtres minéraux et/ou leurs mélanges. De préférence le SPF de ladite composition est porté à une valeur supérieure ou égale à 25 et le PPD de la composition est porté à une valeur supérieure ou égale 8. According to a second aspect, the invention relates to a method for stabilizing, in particular photostabilization, a composition comprising iraws'-resveratrol and / or at least one trans -resveratrol derivative comprising a step in which one adds to said composition a filtering system comprising a) at least one long UVA filter liposoluble 2-hydroxybenzophenone substituted amino and b) at least one UV filter selected from water-soluble UVA organic filters, liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filters, mineral filters and / or their mixtures. Preferably, the SPF of said composition is brought to a value greater than or equal to 25 and the PPD of the composition is brought to a value greater than or equal to 8.
L'invention vise aussi l'utilisation d'un système filtrant comprenant au moins un filtre UVA long liposoluble 2-hydroxybenzophenone amino substitué et b) au moins un filtre UV choisi parmi les filtres organiques UVA hydrosolubles, les filtres organiques mixtes UVA-UVB liposolubles, les filtres minéraux et/ou leurs mélanges, pour stabiliser notamment photostabiliser une composition comprenant du iraws'-resvératrol et/ou au moins un dérivé de trans -resvératrol. The invention also relates to the use of a filtering system comprising at least one long UVA-soluble liposoluble 2-hydroxybenzophenone amino filter and b) at least one UV-screening agent chosen from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents and liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic screening agents. , the mineral filters and / or their mixtures, for stabilizing in particular photostabilize a composition comprising iraws'-resveratrol and / or at least one derivative of trans -resveratrol.
Cette utilisation comprenant en particulier l'ajout à ladite composition dudit système filtrant en une quantité telle que le SPF de la composition est porté à une valeur supérieure ou égale à 25 et le PPD de la composition est porté à une valeur supérieure ou égale 8. This use comprising in particular the addition to said composition of said filter system in an amount such that the SPF of the composition is brought to a value greater than or equal to 25 and the PPD of the composition is brought to a value greater than or equal to 8.
De manière surprenante, les inventeurs ont constaté que le iraws'-resvératrol présent dans la composition selon l'invention était particulièrement stable après avoir été exposé à la lumière. Par filtre UVA long au sens de la présente invention, on entend un composé organique filtrant les radiations UVA absorbant dans le domaine de longueurs d'ondes compris entre 300 et 400 nm et plus particulièrement de 340 à 400 nm. Surprisingly, the inventors have found that the iraws'-resveratrol present in the composition according to the invention was particularly stable after being exposed to light. By long UVA filter in the sense of the present invention is meant an organic compound filtering absorbing UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 300 and 400 nm and more particularly from 340 to 400 nm.
Par « dérivé du iraws'-resvératrol » au sens de la présente invention, on entend les esters, glucosides et les phosphates du iraw^-resvératrol. Ces composés possèdent tous les mêmes propriétés biologiques que le trans- resvératrol et sont de stéréochimie trans. Tout comme le iraws'-resvératrol, ils sont photosensibles, et se transforment irréversiblement en leur isomère cis sous exposition à la lumière. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "derivative of iraws'-resveratrol" means the esters, glucosides and phosphates of irar-3-verertrol. These compounds all have the same biological properties as trans-resveratrol and are trans-stereochemistry. Like iraws'-resveratrol, they are photosensitive, and irreversibly transform into their cis isomer under light exposure.
Par "filtre UV organique hydrosoluble" on entend tout composé organique ou inorganique filtrant les radiations UV susceptible d'être complètement dissous à l'état
moléculaire ou miscible dans une phase aqueuse liquide ou bien d'être solubilisé sous forme colloïdale (par exemple sous forme micellaire) dans une phase aqueuse liquide. By "water-soluble organic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the state molecular or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or to be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
Par "filtre UV organique liposoluble" on entend tout composé organique ou inorganique filtrant les radiations UV susceptible d'être complètement dissous à l'état moléculaire ou miscible dans une phase grasse liquide ou bien d'être solubilisé sous forme colloïdale (par exemple sous forme micellaire) dans une phase grasse liquide. By "liposoluble organic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state or miscible in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in the form of micellar) in a liquid fatty phase.
Dans la suite de la description par « iraws'-resvératrol » on entend le trans- resvératrol ou au moins un dérivé de iraws'-resvératrol ou un mélange de iraws'-resvératrol et de dérivé(s) de iraws-resvératrol. Par composition « stable » au sens de la présente invention on entend une composition dans laquelle le iraws'-resvératerol se dégrade peu en particulier sous exposition à la lumière, notamment par transformation en son isomère cis. De préférence, une composition stable selon l'invention comprend au moins 85 % en poids de resvératrol, avantageusement au moins 90 % en poids de resvératrol, en particulier au moins 95 % en poids de resvératrol par rapport au poids total de resvératrol initialement introduit dans la composition. In the following description by "iraws'-resveratrol" is meant trans-resveratrol or at least one derivative of iraws'-resveratrol or a mixture of iraws'-resveratrol and derivative (s) of iraws-resveratrol. By "stable" composition in the sense of the present invention is meant a composition in which the iraws'-resveratrol is degraded little in particular under light exposure, in particular by transformation into its cis isomer. Preferably, a stable composition according to the invention comprises at least 85% by weight of resveratrol, advantageously at least 90% by weight of resveratrol, in particular at least 95% by weight of resveratrol relative to the total weight of resveratrol initially introduced into the composition.
Par « SPF » (Sun Protection Factor) au sens de l'invention on entend le facteur de protection solaire, qui mesure le niveau de protection contre les UVB. La valeur du SPF correspond au rapport entre la durée minimale qu'il faut pour obtenir un coup de soleil avec une composition antisolaire et celle sans produit. II s'exprime mathématiquement par le rapport de la dose de rayonnement UV nécessaire pour atteindre le seuil érythématogène avec le filtre UV sur la dose de rayonnement UV nécessaire pour atteindre le seuil érythématogène sans filtre UV. Ce facteur concerne donc l'efficacité de la protection dont le spectre d'action biologique est centré dans l'UVB et par conséquent, rend compte de la protection vis à vis de ce rayonnement UV-B. Pour caractériser la protection vis à vis des UV-A, la méthode PPD (PersistentBy "SPF" (Sun Protection Factor) within the meaning of the invention is meant the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB. The SPF value is the ratio of the minimum duration of sunburn to an antisolar composition to the one without a product. It is expressed mathematically by the ratio of the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold with the UV filter on the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold without UV filter. This factor therefore concerns the effectiveness of the protection whose biological action spectrum is centered in the UVB and therefore, accounts for the protection with respect to this UV-B radiation. To characterize the protection against UV-A, the PPD method (Persistent
Pigment Darkening), qui mesure la couleur de la peau observée 2 à 4 heures après une exposition de la peau aux UV-A, est particulièrement recommandée et utilisée. Cette méthode est adoptée depuis 1996 par la Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) en tant que procédure officielle de test pour l'étiquetage UV-A des produits et est fréquemment utilisée par les laboratoires de tests en Europe et aux Etats-Unis; (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued November 21, 1995 and efective of January 1, 1996). Pigment Darkening), which measures the skin color observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure of the skin to UV-A, is particularly recommended and used. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official testing procedure for UV-A labeling of products and is frequently used by testing laboratories in Europe and the United States; (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin, Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy, Issued November 21, 1995 and efective of January 1, 1996).
Le facteur de protection solaire UVA PPD (FP UVAppd) s'exprime mathématiquement par le rapport de la dose de rayonnement UV-A nécessaire pour atteindre le seuil de pigmentation avec le filtre UV (MPPDp) sur la dose de rayonnement UV-A nécessaire pour atteindre le seuil de pigmentation sans filtre UV (MPPDnp).
FP UVAPPD = ^¾ The UVA PPD sun protection factor (FP UVAppd) is expressed mathematically by the ratio of the UV-A radiation dose required to reach the UV filter pigmentation threshold (MPPDp) on the UV-A radiation dose required for reach the threshold of pigmentation without UV filter (MPPDnp). FP U VA PPD = ^ ¾
MPPDnp MPPDnp
La présente demande concerne également, selon un autre de ses aspects, l'utilisation cosmétique d'une quantité efficace d'une composition comprenant du trans- resvératrol ou au moins un dérivé de iraws'-resvératrol tel que défini précédemment, pour lutter contre les signes cutanés du vieillissement, notamment induits par un stress oxydatif. The present application also relates, in another of its aspects, to the cosmetic use of an effective amount of a composition comprising trans-resveratrol or at least one derivative of iraws'-resveratrol as defined above, for combating cutaneous signs of aging, particularly induced by oxidative stress.
En effet, le stress oxydatif est notamment lié à des agents extérieurs comme les rayonnements ultraviolets, la pollution, un stress thermique ou encore diverses toxines telles que des agents chimiques avec lesquels la peau peut être en contact (tabac, métaux lourds, polluants atmosphériques, etc). En particulier, l'utilisation selon l'invention vise à atténuer les signes cutanés du vieillissement, en particulier les signes du vieillissement cutané d'origine actinique tel que le photo-vieillissement. Indeed, the oxidative stress is particularly related to external agents such as ultraviolet radiation, pollution, heat stress or various toxins such as chemicals with which the skin may be in contact (tobacco, heavy metals, air pollutants, etc.). In particular, the use according to the invention aims to attenuate the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular the signs of cutaneous aging of actinic origin such as photo-aging.
Parmi les signes cutanés du vieillissement, notamment induits par un stress oxydatif, en particulier d'origine actinique, on cite notamment une perte de fermeté et/ou d'élasticité et/ou de tonicité et/ou de souplesse de la peau, la formation des rides et des ridules, les rides d'expression, en particulier au niveau du front et de l'espace intersourcillier, les rides et/ou ridules péri-buccales, et/ou le relâchement au niveau du contour des lèvres, en particulier au niveau de la lèvre blanche (zone située entre la lèvre supérieure et le nez), un aspect terne du teint, l'aspect papyracé de la peau. Cette utilisation sera notamment destinée aux personnes à peau mature, voire très mature. Among the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular induced by oxidative stress, in particular of actinic origin, mention is made in particular of a loss of firmness and / or of elasticity and / or of tonicity and / or of flexibility of the skin, the formation wrinkles and fine lines, expression lines, in particular at the level of the forehead and the intersuracillary space, the wrinkles and / or perioral ridicules, and / or the relaxation at the level of the contour of the lips, in particular at the level of level of the white lip (area between the upper lip and the nose), a dullness of the complexion, the papery aspect of the skin. This use will be especially for people with mature skin, or very mature.
Par « peaux matures » selon l'invention, on entend notamment des personnes ayant au moins 40 ans. By "mature skin" according to the invention is meant in particular persons having at least 40 years.
Par « peaux très matures » selon l'invention, on entend notamment des personnes ayant au moins 50 ans, en particulier au moins 60 ans, voire 65 ans. By "very mature skin" according to the invention is meant in particular persons having at least 50 years, in particular at least 60 years, or even 65 years.
Les rides d'expression sont produites sous l'effet de la contrainte exercée sur la peau par les muscles peauciers qui permettent les mimiques. Selon la forme du visage, la fréquence des mimiques et les tics éventuels, elles peuvent apparaître dès l'enfance. Certains facteurs environnementaux tels que le stress oxydatif, l'exposition au soleil, de même que l'âge n'interviennent pas dans leur genèse mais peuvent les creuser davantage et les rendre permanentes. Les rides d'expression se caractérisent par la présence de sillons sur le pourtour des orifices que constituent le nez (sillons nasogéniens), la bouche (rides para-buccales et rides dites de l'amertume) et les yeux (rides de la patte d'oie), autour desquels se situent les muscles peauciers, ainsi qu'entre les sourcils (rides de la glabelle ou du lion) et sur le front. En particulier, on cherchera à prévenir et/ou lisser les rides du front et de l'espace intersourcillier.
L'aspect papyracé de la peau se caractérise par une modification de l'aspect visuel, ainsi que de la tenue au toucher, de la peau. Plus précisément, la peau revêt visuellement l'aspect d'un papier à cigarette lui donnant une apparence similaire à celle d'une feuille de papyrus. En outre, lorsqu'elle est légèrement pincée entre le pouce et l'index, la peau forme des plis fins, aigus et nombreux ayant l'apparence d'un papier froissé. Enfin, le toucher de la peau montre que ses parties superficielles sont comme flottantes sur les parties profondes, donnant à la peau, au stade très évolué d'aspect papyracé, l'apparence d'un papier chiffonné. L'aspect papyracé de la peau est visible sur le visage et encore plus caractéristique sur le dos des mains de personnes âgées. Les compositions conformes à l'invention destinées à prévenir et/ou lisser les rides d'expression seront appliquées sur le visage. Expression lines are produced under the effect of the stress exerted on the skin by the skin muscles which allow mimicry. Depending on the shape of the face, the frequency of mimicry and possible tics, they can appear from childhood. Some environmental factors such as oxidative stress, sun exposure, and age do not interfere in their genesis but can dig them further and make them permanent. Expression lines are characterized by the presence of furrows around the orifices of the nose (nasolabial folds), the mouth (para-buccal wrinkles and so-called bitterness wrinkles) and the eyes (wrinkles of the paw d 'oie), around which lie the skin muscles, as well as between the eyebrows (wrinkles of the glabella or the lion) and on the forehead. In particular, it will seek to prevent and / or smooth forehead wrinkles and intersurillary space. The papery appearance of the skin is characterized by a change in the visual appearance, as well as the resistance to touch, of the skin. Specifically, the skin visually looks like a cigarette paper giving it an appearance similar to that of a papyrus leaf. In addition, when it is slightly pinched between the thumb and forefinger, the skin forms fine folds, acute and numerous having the appearance of a crumpled paper. Finally, the touch of the skin shows that its superficial parts are like floating on the deep parts, giving the skin, at the very advanced stage of papery appearance, the appearance of a crumpled paper. The papery appearance of the skin is visible on the face and even more characteristic on the back of the hands of the elderly. The compositions according to the invention for preventing and / or smoothing expression lines will be applied to the face.
Les compositions conformes à l'invention destinées à prévenir et/ou traiter l'aspect papyracé de la peau seront notamment appliquées sur le dos des mains. The compositions according to the invention intended to prevent and / or treat the papery appearance of the skin will be applied in particular on the back of the hands.
Les compositions conformes à l'invention destinées à diminuer l'apparence et/ou la visibilité des pores seront appliquées en particulier au niveau de la zone T (front, nez, joues, menton). The compositions according to the invention intended to reduce the appearance and / or the visibility of the pores will be applied in particular at the level of the zone T (forehead, nose, cheeks, chin).
L'utilisation d'actifs antioxydants peut s'avérer utile dans des compositions anti- âge ou encore dans des compositions dépigmentantes. The use of antioxidant active agents may be useful in anti-aging compositions or in depigmenting compositions.
L'utilisation selon l'invention peut également être plus particulièrement destinée aux personnes à peau grasse. The use according to the invention may also be more particularly intended for people with oily skin.
Les compositions conformes à l'invention peuvent être des produits de maquillage ou de soin des matières kératiniques, en particulier de la peau. The compositions in accordance with the invention may be makeup or care products for keratinous substances, in particular the skin.
Plus précisément les produits de maquillage peuvent être de type fonds de teint, fards à joues ou à paupières, produits anti-cerne, blush, ou encore un produit de maquillage du corps ou de coloration de la peau. More specifically, the makeup products may be of the foundation type, blushers or eyeshadow, anti-ring products, blush, or a product for body makeup or skin coloring.
Les produits de soin de la peau peuvent être une composition de protection, de traitement ou de soin pour le visage, pour les mains, pour les pieds, pour les grands plis anatomiques ou pour le corps par exemple crèmes de jour, crème de nuit, composition antisolaire, laits corporels de protection ou de soin, laits après-solaire, lotion, gel ou mousse pour le soin de la peau, composition de bronzage artificiel; ou une composition après-rasage. The skincare products may be a protection, treatment or care composition for the face, for the hands, for the feet, for large anatomical folds or for the body, for example, day creams, night cream, sunscreen composition, body care or care milks, after-sun milks, lotion, gel or mousse for skin care, artificial tanning composition; or an aftershave composition.
La présente invention concerne également un procédé de traitement cosmétique de la peau et/ou de ses phanères, destiné à prévenir et/ou traiter le vieillissement cutané, notamment induit par un stress oxydatif comprenant au moins une étape consistant à appliquer sur une peau et/ou ses phanères présentant des signes de vieillissement cutané induit par un stress oxydatif au moins une quantité efficace d'au moins une composition selon l'invention.
La présente invention concerne également un procédé cosmétique non- thérapeutique pour limiter l'assombrissement de la peau et/ou améliorer la couleur et/ou l'homogénéité du teint comprenant l'application sur la surface de la matière kératinique d'au moins une composition telle que définie précédemment. La présente invention porte encore sur un procédé de traitement cosmétique de la peau et/ou de ses phanères, visant à protéger la peau et/ou ses phanères des effets du stress oxydatif, en particulier des effets des rayonnements UV, et/ou des toxines et/ou de la pollution, comprenant au moins une étape consistant à appliquer sur la peau et/ou ses phanères au moins une quantité efficace d'au moins une composition selon l'invention. La composition selon l'invention est adaptée à une application topique. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the skin and / or its integuments intended to prevent and / or treat cutaneous aging, in particular induced by oxidative stress, comprising at least one step of applying to a skin and / or or its integuments exhibiting signs of cutaneous aging induced by oxidative stress, at least one effective amount of at least one composition according to the invention. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or the homogeneity of the complexion, comprising the application to the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined previously. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method of the skin and / or its integuments, aimed at protecting the skin and / or its integuments from the effects of oxidative stress, in particular the effects of UV radiation, and / or toxins. and / or pollution, comprising at least one step of applying to the skin and / or its integuments at least an effective amount of at least one composition according to the invention. The composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application.
Par « peau », on entend la peau du visage et/ou du corps, le cuir chevelu et les semi-muqueuses (lèvres). De préférence, il s'agira de la peau du visage et/ou du corps et/ou des lèvres. By "skin" is meant the skin of the face and / or the body, the scalp and the semi-mucous membranes (lips). Preferably, it will be the skin of the face and / or body and / or lips.
Par « phanères », on entend les cheveux, les poils, les cils, les ongles, et de préférence les cheveux. By "dander" means hair, hair, eyelashes, nails, and preferably hair.
Le terme « stress oxydatif » tel qu'employé dans la présente demande recouvre l'ensemble des dommages causés chez un sujet par des radicaux libres. The term "oxidative stress" as used in this application covers all the damage caused in a subject by free radicals.
L'ampleur des dommages engendrés par ce stress oxydatif dépend de la rapidité avec laquelle les radicaux libres sont créés et ensuite inactivés par des antioxydants. rRANS-RESVERATROL The extent of the damage caused by this oxidative stress depends on how quickly the free radicals are created and then inactivated by antioxidants. rRANS-RESVERATROL
Le resvératrol existe à l'état naturel sous sa forme cis et trans, mais également sous d'autres formes comme par exemple une forme glucosylée. Il est présent dans de nombreuses plantes et fruits. On le trouve notamment dans la renouée du Japon (Fallopia japonica également connu sous le nom de Polygonum cupistadum ou encore Reynoutria japonica) ou dans les raisins comme par exemples ceux issus de l'espèce de vigne Vitis vinifera. Plus particulièrement on trouve par exemple le resvératrol dans les mûres, le vin ou les cacahuètes. Resveratrol exists naturally in its cis and trans form, but also in other forms such as a glucosylated form. It is present in many plants and fruits. It is found especially in the Japanese knotweed (Fallopia japonica also known as Polygonum cupistadum or Reynoutria japonica) or in grapes such as those from the vine Vitis vinifera. More particularly, for example, resveratrol is found in blackberries, wine or peanuts.
De manière générale, on trouve du resvératrol dans les familles de plantes suivantes : Vitaceae, Myrtaceae, Dipterocarpaceae, Cyperaceae, Gnetaceae, Fabaceae, Pinaceae, Polygonaceae, Moraceae, Fagaceae, Liliaceae... In general, resveratrol is found in the following families of plants: Vitaceae, Myrtaceae, Dipterocarpaceae, Cyperaceae, Gnetaceae, Fabaceae, Pinaceae, Polygonaceae, Moraceae, Fagaceae, Liliaceae ...
Le iraws'-resvératrol présent dans la composition selon l'invention peut être d'origine synthétique, naturelle ou peut se trouver sous la forme d'un extrait de plante contenant du iraws-resvératrol. The iraws'-resveratrol present in the composition according to the invention may be of synthetic, natural origin or may be in the form of a plant extract containing iraws-resveratrol.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l'invention, ledit iraws'-resvératrol et/ou au moins un dérivé de iraws'-resvératrol est présent dans la composition selon l'invention
dans une teneur allant de 0,001 à 10 , de préférence de 0,01 à 5 % en poids, de manière préférée de 0,05 à 2 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said iraws'-resveratrol and / or at least one derivative of iraws'-resveratrol is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Au sens de l'invention, par teneur on entend teneur en matière active. For the purposes of the invention, the term "content" means active material.
La présente invention vise encore un procédé de préparation de ladite composition. The present invention also provides a process for preparing said composition.
FILTRES UVA longs liposolubles UVA FILTERS long fat soluble
Selon l'invention la composition comprend au moins un filtre UVA long liposoluble 2-hydroxybenzophénone amino- substitués. According to the invention, the composition comprises at least one amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone liposoluble long UVA filter.
Les composés 2-hydroxybenzophénone amino- substitués selon l'invention sont choisis de préférence parmi les composés répondant à la formule (I) suivante : The amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone compounds according to the invention are preferably chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I):
1 2 1 2
R et R , identiques ou différents, désignent un radical alkyle en C1-C20, un alcényle en C2-C20, un cycloalkyle en C3-C10, un cycloalcényle en C3-C10 ou forment avec l'atome d'azote avec lequel ils sont liés un cycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons ; n est un nombre allant de 1 à 4 ; quand n = 1, R désigne un radical alkyle en C1-C20, un radical alcenyle en C1-C20, un hydroxyalkyle en C1-C5, un cyclohexyle en C6-Ci2, un phényle pouvant être substitué par O, N ou S, un radical aminocarbonyle ou un radical alkylcarbonyle en C1-C5 ; R and R, which are identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical, a C 2 -C 20 alkenyl, a C 3 -C 10 cycloalkyl or a C 3 -C 10 cycloalkenyl radical or form with nitrogen atom with which they are bound a 5- or 6-membered ring; n is a number from 1 to 4; when n = 1, R denotes an alkyl radical C 1 -C 20 alkenyl radical C 1 -C 20 hydroxyalkyl C 1 -C 5 alkyl, cyclohexyl, C 6 -C 2, phenyl which may be substituted by O, N or S, an aminocarbonyl radical or a C 1 -C 5 alkylcarbonyl radical;
quand n = 2, R désigne un diradical alkyle, un diradical cycloalkyle, un diradical alcényle ou un diradical aryle ou R avec E forment un diradical de formule (II) : when n = 2, R denotes an alkyl diradical, a cycloalkyl diradical, an alkenyl diradical or an aryl diradical or R with E form a diradical of formula (II):
avec m un nombre allant de 1 à 3 ; quand n = 3, R est un triradical alkyle ; quand n = 4 , R est un tetraradical alkyle ; with m a number ranging from 1 to 3; when n = 3, R is an alkyl triradical; when n = 4, R is an alkyl tetraradical;
E est -O-, ou -N(R4)- ou N ; R4 est hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C5 ou hydroxyalkyle en C1-C5. E is -O-, or -N (R 4 ) - or N; R 4 is hydrogen, alkyl C 1 -C 5 hydroxyalkyl or C 1 -C 5.
Comme radicaux alkyle en C1-C20, on peut citer par exemple : méthyle, éthyle, n- propyle, 1-méthyléthyle, n-butyle, 1-méthylpropyle, 2-méthylpropyle, 1,1-diméthyléthyle, n- pentyle, 1-méthylbutyle, 2-méthylbutyle, 3-méthylbutyle, 2,2-diméthylpropyle, 1- éthylpropyle, n-hexyle, 1,1-diméthylpropyle, 1,2-diméthylpropyle, 1-méthylpentyle, 2- méthylpentyle, 3-méthylpentyle, 4-méthylpentyle, 1,1-diméthylbutyle, 1,2-diméthylbutyle, 1,3-diméthylbutyle, 2,2-diméthylbutyle, 2,3-diméthylbutyle, 3,3-diméthylbutyle, 1- éthylbutyle, 2-éthylbutyle, 1,2,2-triméthylpropyle, 1-éthyl- 1-méthylpropyle, l-éthyl-2- méthylpropyle, n-heptyle, n-octyle, n-nonyle, n-décyle, n-undécyle, n-dodécyle, n-tridécyle, n-tétradécyle, n-pentadécyle, n-hexadécyle, n-heptadécyle, n-octadécyle, n-nonadécyle ou n- eicosyle. Examples of C 1 -C 20 alkyl radicals that may be mentioned include: methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, 1-methylethyl, n-butyl, 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, 1,1-dimethylethyl, n-pentyl, 1-methylbutyl, 2-methylbutyl, 3-methylbutyl, 2,2-dimethylpropyl, 1-ethylpropyl, n-hexyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 1,2-dimethylpropyl, 1-methylpentyl, 2-methylpentyl, 3-methylpentyl, 4-methylpentyl, 1,1-dimethylbutyl, 1,2-dimethylbutyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 2,2-dimethylbutyl, 2,3-dimethylbutyl, 3,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-ethylbutyl, 2-ethylbutyl, 1, 2,2-trimethylpropyl, 1-ethyl-1-methylpropyl, 1-ethyl-2-methylpropyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tridecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-pentadecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-heptadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-nonadecyl or n-eicosyl.
Comme radicaux cycloalkyles en C3-C10, on peut citer par exemple : cyclopropyle, cyclobutyle, cyclopentyle, cyclohexyle, cycloheptyle, 1-méthylcyclopropyle, 1-éthylcyclopropyle, 1-propylcyclopropyle, 1-butylcyclopropyle, 1-pentylcyclopropyle, 1 -méthyl- 1 -butylcyclopropyle, 1 ,2-diméthylcyclypropyle, 1 -méthyl-2-éthylcyclopropyle, cyclooctyle, cyclononyle ou cyclodécyle. Examples of C 3 -C 10 cycloalkyl radicals which may be mentioned include: cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, 1-methylcyclopropyl, 1-ethylcyclopropyl, 1-propylcyclopropyl, 1-butylcyclopropyl, 1-pentylcyclopropyl, 1-methyl- 1-Butylcyclopropyl, 1, 2-dimethylcyclypropyl, 1-methyl-2-ethylcyclopropyl, cyclooctyl, cyclononyl or cyclodecyl.
Comme radicaux cycloalcenyles en C3-C10 ayant une ou plusieurs doubles liaisons, on peut citer : cyclopropenyle, cyclobutényle, cyclopentényle, cyclopentadiènyle, cyclohexenyle, 1,3-cyclohexadienyle, 1,4-cyclohexadienyle, cycloheptenyle, cycloheptatrienyle, cyclooctenyle, 1,5-cyclooctadienyle, cyclooctatétraenyle, cyclononenyle ou cyclodécenyle. As C 3 -C 10 cycloalkenyl radicals having one or more double bonds, mention may be made of: cyclopropenyl, cyclobutenyl, cyclopentenyl, cyclopentadienyl, cyclohexenyl, 1,3-cyclohexadienyl, 1,4-cyclohexadienyl, cycloheptenyl, cycloheptatrienyl, cyclooctenyl, 1, 5-cyclooctadienyl, cyclooctatetraenyl, cyclononenyl or cyclodecenyl.
Comme exemples de cycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons formé par les radicaux RI et R2 avec l'atome d'azote, on peut citer en particulier la pyrrolidine ou la pipéridine. Examples of a 5- or 6-membered ring formed by the radicals R 1 and R 2 with the nitrogen atom include, in particular, pyrrolidine or piperidine.
Un composé de formule (I) avec n = 1 tout particulièrement préféré est le 2-(4- diéthylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle de formule (a) :
tel que le produit vendu sous le nom commercial «UVINUL A Plus ®» par la société BASF. A compound of formula (I) with n = 1 very particularly preferred is n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate of formula (a): such as the product sold under the trade name "UVINUL A Plus ®" by BASF.
Un composé de formule (I) avec n = 2 tout particulièrement préféré est le dérivé (2-{4-[2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxy-benzoyl)-benzoyl]-piperazine-l-carbonyl}-phenyl)-(4- diethylamino-2-hydroxy-phenyl)-methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) de formule (b) : A compound of formula (I) with n = 2 very particularly preferred is the derivative (2- {4- [2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxy-benzoyl) -benzoyl] -piperazine-1-carbonyl} -phenyl) - (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxy-phenyl) -methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) of formula (b):
qui est décrit dans la demande de brevet WO 2007071584. Ce composé est avantageusement utilisé sous forme micronisée (taille moyenne de 0,02 à 2 μιη) pouvant être obtenue par exemple selon le procédé de micronisation décrit dans les demandes GB-A-2 303 549 et EP-A-893119 et plus particulièrement sous forme de dispersion aqueuse. which is described in the patent application WO 2007071584. This compound is advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 μιη) obtainable for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303. 549 and EP-A-893119 and more particularly in the form of an aqueous dispersion.
Les composés de formule (I) tels que définis ci-dessus sont connus en eux-mêmes et leurs structures et leurs synthèses sont décrites dans les demandes de brevet EP-A- 1046391, EPI 133980, DE10012408 et WO 2007071584. Le ou les filtres UVA-longs liposolubles 2-hydroxybenzophénone aminosubstitués sont de préférence présents dans les compositions conformes à l'invention à des teneurs qui varient de préférence de 0,1 à 10% en poids, et plus préférentiellement de 0,25 à 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The compounds of formula (I) as defined above are known per se and their structures and their syntheses are described in patent applications EP-A-1046391, EPI 133980, DE10012408 and WO 2007071584. The filter (s) UVA-long liposoluble 2-hydroxybenzophenone aminosubstituted are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention at contents which preferably vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.25 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.
FILTRES UV additionels différents des filtres UVA-longs Additional UV FILTERS different from UVA-long filters
Comme précisé précédemment, une composition selon l'invention comprend en outre au moins un filtre UV additonnel choisi parmi les filtres organiques UVA
hydrosolubles, les filtres organiques mixtes UVA-UVB liposolubles, les filtres minéraux et/ou leurs mélanges, As stated above, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional UV filter chosen from UVA organic filters. water-soluble, liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic screening agents, mineral filters and / or mixtures thereof,
De préférence la composition selon l'invention comprend au moins un filtre UV additionnel choisi parmi les filtres organiques UVA hydrosolubles. De préférence la composition selon l'invention comprend au moins un filtre UV choisi parmi les filtres organiques mixtes UVA-UVB liposolubles. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional UV filter chosen from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one UV filter chosen from the liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic screening agents.
De préférence la composition selon l'invention comprend au moins un filtre organique UVA hydrosoluble et au moins un filtre organique mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble et éventuellement au moins un filtre minéral. Selon l'invention, la composition peut également comprendre, en plus des filtres définis selon b), au moins des filtres organiques UVB hydrosolubles, des filtres organiques UVB liposolubles, des filtres UVA liposolubles et leurs mélanges. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter and at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter and optionally at least one mineral filter. According to the invention, the composition may also comprise, in addition to the filters defined according to b), at least water-soluble organic UVB screening agents, liposoluble UVB organic screening agents, liposoluble UVA screening agents and mixtures thereof.
De préférence la composition selon l'invention comprend au moins un filtre organique UVA hydrosoluble et au moins un filtre organique UVB liposoluble, et éventuellement au moins un filtre minéral. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter and at least one liposoluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
De préférence la composition selon l'invention comprend au moins un filtre organique UVA hydrosoluble, au moins un filtre organique mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble et au moins un filtre organique UVB liposoluble, et éventuellement au moins un filtre minéral. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter and at least one liposoluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
De préférence la composition selon l'invention comprend au moins un filtre organique UVA hydrosoluble, au moins un filtre organique mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble, au moins un filtre organique UVB liposoluble et au moins un filtre organique UVB hydrosoluble, et éventuellement au moins un filtre minéral. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter, at least one liposoluble organic UVB filter and at least one water-soluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one filter. mineral.
Filtres UVA UVA filters
Le ou les filtres UVA selon la présente invention peu(ven)t être choisi(s) parmi les filtres suivants. The UVA filter (s) according to the present invention may be chosen from the following filters.
1) Filtres liposolubles UVA 1) UVA fat-soluble filters
Composés dibenzoylméthane : Dibenzoylmethane compounds:
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylméthane vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « PARSOL 1789 » par DSM Nutritional Products, Inc ; Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL 1789" by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc .;
Isopropyl Dibenzoylméthane ; Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane;
Aminobenzophénones
2-(4-diéthylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « UVINUL A +» par BASF ; aminobenzophenones 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate of n-hexyl sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL A +" by BASF;
Composés anthraniliques : Anthranilic compounds:
Menthyl anthranilate vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « NEO HELIOPAN MA » par SYMRISE ; Menthyl anthranilate sold in particular under the trade name "Neo Heliopan MA" by SYMRISE;
Composés 4,4-diarylbutadiène : 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds:
1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-diméthyl-propyl)-4,4-diphénylbutadiène ; 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene;
Composés mérocyanine : Merocyanine compounds:
Octyl-5-N,N-diéthylamino-2-phénysulfonyl-2,4-pentadiénoate ; 2) Filtres hydrosolubles UVA Octyl-5-N, N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate; 2) Water-soluble UVA filters
Les composés du camphre tel que le Terephtalylidène Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid fabriqué sous le nom « MEXORYL SX » par CHIMEX, Camphor compounds such as Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex,
Les composés bis-benzoazolyle tels que décrits dans les brevets EP 669 323, et US 2,463,264 et plus particulièrement le composé Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazo tetra- sulfonate vendu sous le nom commercial « NEO HELIOPAN AP » par SYMRISE ; The bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2,463,264 and more particularly the compound Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazo tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN AP" by SYMRISE;
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré ledit au moins un filtre UVA hydrosolubles est choisi parmi les composés hydrosolubles du camphre et leurs mélanges. According to a preferred embodiment, said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is chosen from the water-soluble compounds of camphor and their mixtures.
Plus particulièrement, ledit au moins un filtre UVA est le téréphtalylidène dicamphor sulfonic acid. De préférence, une composition selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVA hydrosoluble est présent dans une teneur allant de 1 à 20 , en particulier, de 3 à 15 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. More particularly, said at least one UVA filter is terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid. Preferably, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that the said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is present in a content ranging from 1 to 20, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .
Filtres UVB UVB filters
Le ou les filtres UVB selon la présente invention peu(ven)t être choisi(s) parmi les filtres suivants. The UVB filter (s) according to the present invention may be selected from the following filters.
1) Filtres liposolubles UVB 1) Liposoluble UVB Filters
Para-aminobenzoates Para-aminobenzoate
Ethyl PABA ; Ethyl PABA;
Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA ; Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA;
Ethylhexyl Diméthyl PABA (ESCALOL 507 de ISP) ;
Composés salicyliques : Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA (ESCALOL 507 from ISP); Salicylic compounds:
Homosalate vendu notamment sous le nom « Eusolex HMS » par Rona/EMHomosalate sold in particular under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM
Industries ; Industries;
Ethylhexyl Salicylate vendu notamment sous le nom « NEO HELIOPAN OS » par SYMRISE ; Ethylhexyl salicylate sold in particular under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS" by SYMRISE;
Dipropylèneglycol Salicylate vendu notamment sous le nom « DIPSAL » par Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold in particular under the name "DIPSAL" by
SCHER ; SCHER;
- TEA Salicylate et sous le nom « NEO HELIOPAN TS » par SYMRISE ; - TEA Salicylate and under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS" by SYMRISE;
Cinnamates cinnamates
Ethylhexyl Méthoxycinnamate vendu notamment sous le nom commercialEthylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name
« PARSOL MCX » par DSM Nutritional Products, Inc. ; "PARSOL MCX" by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.;
Isopropyl Méthoxy cinnamate ; Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate;
Isoamyl Méthoxy cinnamate vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 » par SYMRISE ; Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate sold in particular under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN E 1000" by SYMRISE;
Diisopropyl Méthylcinnamate ; Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate;
Cinnoxate ; Cinnoxate;
Glycéryl Ethylhexanoate Diméthoxycinnamate ; Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate;
Composés β,β'-diphénylacrylate : Β, β'-diphenylacrylate compounds:
Octocrylène, vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « UVINUL N539 » par BASF ; Octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N539" by BASF;
Etocrylène, vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « UVINUL N35 » par Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35 by
BASF ; BASF;
Composés du benzylidène camphre : Benzylidene camphor compounds:
3-Benzylidène camphre fabriqué sous le nom « MEXORYL SD » par3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SD" by
CHIMEX ; CHIMEX;
Méthylbenzylidène camphre vendu notamment sous le nom « EUSOLEX 6300 » par MERCK ; Methylbenzylidene camphor sold in particular under the name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck;
Polyacrylamidométhyle Benzylidène Camphre fabriqué sous le nom « MEXORYL SW » par CHIMEX ; Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SW" by CHIMEX;
Composés triazine : Triazine compounds:
Ethylhexyl triazone vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « UVINUL T150 » par BASF ; Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF;
Diéthylhexyl Butamido Triazone vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « UVASORB HEB » par SIGMA 3V ; Diethylhexylbutamido triazone sold in particular under the trade name "UVASORB HEB" by SIGMA 3V;
2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-s-triazine ; 2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine;
2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate de diisobutyle)-s- triazine ;
2,4-bis(4'-amino benzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-6-(4'-aminobenzoate de n- butyle)-s-triazine ; 2,4,6-tris (diisobutyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine; 2,4-bis (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine;
2,4-bis(4'-amino benzoate de n-butyle)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine ; les filtres triazines symétriques décrits dans le brevet US 6,225,467, la demande WO 2004/085412 (voir composés 6 et 9) ou le document « Symetrical Triazine Derivatives » IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (20 septembre 2004) notamment les 2,4,6-tris-(biphényl)-l,3,5-triazine (en particulier la 2,4,6-tris(biphényl-4-yl-l,3,5-triazine) et la 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine, ces deux derniers filtres étant décrits dans les demandes de BEIERSDORF WO 06/035000, WO 06/034982, WO 06/034991, WO 06/035007, WO 2006/034992, WO 2006/034985). 2,4-bis (n-butyl 4'-amino benzoate) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) -s-triazine; the symmetrical triazine filters described in US Pat. No. 6,225,467, WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" document IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC. WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20 2004) including 2,4,6-tris- (biphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (especially 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine) and 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the latter two filters being described in BEIERSDORF applications WO 06/035000, WO 06/034982, WO 06/034991, WO 06/035007 , WO 2006/034992, WO 2006/034985).
Composés d'imidazolines : Imidazoline compounds:
Ethylhexyl Diméthoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate, Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate,
Composés du benzalmalonate : Benzalmalonate compounds:
Polyorganosiloxanes à fonction benzalmalonate tels que le Polysilicone-15 vendu notamment sous la dénomination commerciale « PARSOL SLX » par DSM Nutritional Products, Inc. ; Benzalmalonate-functional polyorganosiloxanes such as Polysilicone-15 sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL SLX" by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.;
Di-neopentyl 4'-méthoxybenzalmalonate ; 2) Filtres hydrosolubles UVB Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate; 2) Water-soluble UVB filters
Les composés d'acide p-aminobenzoïque (PABA) suivants : - PABA, The following p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds: - PABA,
- Glyceryl PABA et - Glyceryl PABA and
PEG-25 PABA vendu notamment sous la dénomination commerciale « UVINUL P25 » par BASF. PEG-25 PABA sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul P25 by BASF.
le Phenylbenzimidzaole Sulfonic Acid vendu notamment sous la dénomination commerciale « EUSOLEX 232 » par MERCK, Phenylbenzimidzaole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by Merck,
l'acide férulique, Ferulic acid
l'acide salicylique, salicylic acid,
le DE A methoxycinnamate, DE A methoxycinnamate,
le benzylidène camphre Acide Sulfonique fabriqué sous le nom « MEXORYL SL » par CHIMEX, benzylidene camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SL" by CHIMEX,
le camphre Benzalkonium Methosulfate fabriqué sous le nom « MEXORYL SO » par CHIMEX. camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SO" by CHIMEX.
En particulier, ledit au moins un filtre hydrosoluble UVB est choisi parmi le Phenylbenzimidzaole Sulfonic Acid. De préférence, une composition selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVB hydrosoluble est présent dans une teneur allant de 0,5 à 8 , en particulier de de 1 à 5 , par rapport au poids total de la composition.
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, ledit au moins un filtre UVB compris dans une composition selon l'invention est un filtre liposoluble UVB. In particular, said at least one water-soluble UVB filter is selected from Phenylbenzimidzaole Sulfonic Acid. Preferably, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVB filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 8, in particular from 1 to 5, relative to the total weight of the composition. . According to a preferred embodiment, said at least one UVB filter included in a composition according to the invention is a liposoluble UVB filter.
En particulier, ledit au moins un filtre liposoluble UVB est choisi parmi les composés salicyliques, les cinnamates, les composés β,β'-diphénylacrylate, les composés triazine et leurs mélanges. In particular, said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is selected from salicylic compounds, cinnamates, β, β'-diphenylacrylate compounds, triazine compounds and mixtures thereof.
De préférence, ledit au moins un filtre UVB liposoluble est choisi parmi l'éthylhexyl salicylate, l'éthylhexyl méthoxycinnamate, l'octocrylène, l'éthylhexyl triazone et leurs mélanges. Plus particulièrement ledit filtre UVB liposoluble est choisi parmi l'éthylhexyl méthoxycinnamate, l'éthylhexyl triazone, l'éthylhexyl salicylate et leurs mélanges. Preferably, said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is selected from ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone and mixtures thereof. More particularly said liposoluble UVB filter is selected from ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl salicylate and mixtures thereof.
De préférence, une composition selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVB liposoluble est présent dans une teneur allant de 0,5 à 20 , en particulier de de 1 à 15 , et de préférence de 1,2 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Selon une variante de l'invention, ledit système filtrant organique utilisé dans l'invention comprend un ou plusieurs filtre(s) mixte(s) UVA-UVB. Preferably, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20, in particular from 1 to 15, and preferably from 1.2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a variant of the invention, said organic filter system used in the invention comprises one or more mixed filter (s) UVA-UVB.
Filtres mixtes UVA - UVB Mixed UVA - UVB filters
Ledit au moins un filtre mixte UVA-UVB peut être choisi parmi les filtres suivants. 1) Filtres liposolubles mixtes UVA et UVB Said at least one mixed UVA-UVB filter may be chosen from the following filters. 1) UVA and UVB mixed liposoluble filters
Les filtres liposolubles mixtes UVA - UVB sont choisis de préférence parmi les composés benzophénone ; les composés phenylbenzotriazole ; les composés méthylène bis- (hydroxyphényl benzotriazole) tels que décrits dans les demandes US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 et EP893119 ; les composés bis-résorcinyl triazine tels que décrits dans la demande EP0775698 ; les composés benzoxazole tels que décrits dans les demandes de brevet EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 et DE10162844; les filtres triazines symétriques substituées par des groupes naphthalenyles ou des groupes polyphényles décrits dans le brevet US6,225,467, la demande WO2004/085412 (voir composés 6 et 9) ou le document « Symetrical Triazine Derivatives » IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal , INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (20 septembre 2004) notamment la 2,4,6-tris(di-phenyl)- triazine et la 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine qui est repris dans les demandes de brevet WO06/035000, WO06/034982, WO06/034991, WO06/035007, WO2006/034992, WO2006/034985, ces composés étant utilisés avantageusement sous forme micronisée (taille moyenne de particule de 0,02 à 3 μιη) pouvant être obtenue par exemple selon le procédé de micronisation décrit dans les demandes GB-A-2 303 549 et EP-A-893119 et notamment en dispersion aqueuse ; et leurs mélanges.
Composés benzophénones The UVA - UVB mixed liposoluble filters are preferably chosen from benzophenone compounds; phenylbenzotriazole compounds; methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; bis-resorcinyl triazine compounds as described in application EP0775698; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in US Pat. No. 6,225,467, WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA , NY, US (September 20, 2004) including 2,4,6-tris (di-phenyl) -triazine and 2,4,6-tris (ter-phenyl) -triazine which is included in WO06 patent applications. / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985, these compounds being advantageously used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 μιη) obtainable for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion; and their mixtures. Benzophenone compounds
Benzophenone-1 vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « UVINUL400® » par BASF ; Benzophenone-1 sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL400®" by BASF;
Benzophenone-2 vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « UVINUL D 50 ®» par BASF ; Benzophenone-2 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul D 50® by BASF;
Benzophenone-3 ou Oxybenzone vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « UVINUL M 40® » par BASF ; Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul M 40®" by BASF;
Benzophenone-4, vendu par la société BASF sous le nom Uvinul MS 40® : Benzophenone-4, sold by BASF under the name Uvinul MS 40®:
Benzophenone-5 ; Benzophenone-5;
Benzophenone-6 vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « Helisorbl l » par Benzophenone-6 sold in particular under the trade name "Helisorbl l" by
Norquay ; Norquay;
Benzophenone-8 vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « Spectra-Sorb UV- 24® » par American Cyanamid ; Benzophenone-8 sold in particular under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24®" by American Cyanamid;
Benzophenone-9, vendu par la société BASF sous le nom Uvinul DS 49® : Benzophenone-9, sold by BASF under the name Uvinul DS 49®:
Benzophenone-10 ; Benzophenone-10;
Benzophenone-11 ; Benzophenone-11;
Benzophenone-12. Benzophenone-12.
Composés phenyl benzotriazole : Phenyl benzotriazole compounds:
- Drometrizole Trisiloxane vendu notamment sous le nom « Silatrizole » par - Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold in particular under the name "Silatrizole" by
RHODIA CHIMIE ou fabriqué sous le nom « Meroxyl XL® » par la société CHIMEX. RHODIA CHEMISTRY or manufactured under the name "Meroxyl XL®" by the company CHIMEX.
Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl Tétramethylbutylphénol, vendu sous forme solide notamment sous le nom commercial « MIXXIM BB/100 » par FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL ou sous forme micronisée en dispersion aqueuse notamment sous le nom commercial « TINOSORB M » par CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS ; Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form in particular under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion, especially under the trade name "TINOSORB M" by CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS;
Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl Tétramethylbutylphénol, vendu sous forme solide notamment sous le nom commercial « MIXXIM BB/100 ®» par FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL ou sous forme de dispersion aqueuse de particules micronisées ayant une taille moyenne des particules qui varie de 0,01 à 5μιη et plus préférentiellement de 0,01 à 2 μιη et plus particulièrement de 0,020 à 2 μιη avec au moins un tensioactif alkylpolyglycoside de structure CnH2n+l O(C6H10O5)xH dans laquelle n est un entier de 8 à 16 et x est le degré moyen de polymérisation de l'unité (C6H10O5) et varie de 1,4 à 1,6 telle que décrite dans le brevet GB- A-2 303 549 notamment vendue sous le nom commercial « TINOSORB M® » par BASF ou sous la forme d'une dispersion aqueuse de particules micronisées ayant une taille moyenne des particules qui varie de 0,02 à 2μιη et plus préférentiellement de 0,01 à 1,5 μιη et plus particulièrement de 0,02 à 1 μιη en présence d'au moins un mono-(C8-C20)alkyl-ester de polyglycérol ayant un dégré de polymérisation de glycérol d'au moins 5 telles que les dispersions aqueuses décrites dans la demande WO2009/063392. Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form in particular under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100®" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 μm and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 μιη and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μιη with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure CnH2n + 1 O (C6H10O5) xH in which n is an integer of 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6H10O5) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 as described in GB-A-2 303 549 sold especially under the trade name "TINOSORB M®" by BASF or in the form of a aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2μιη and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 μιη and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μιη in the presence of at least one monomer. (C8-C20) alkyl-es polyglycerol ter with a glycerol polymerization degree of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in the application WO2009 / 063392.
Composés bis-resorcinyl triazines Bis-resorcinyl triazine compounds
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « TINOSORB S® » par BASF.
Composés benzoxazole : Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold in particular under the trade name "TINOSORB S®" by BASF. Benzoxazole compounds:
2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl)-imino] -6- ( 10 (2- ethylhexyl)-imino-l,3,5-triazine vendu notamment sous le nom d'Uvasorb K2A par Sigma 3V. 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (10 (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine sold especially under the name of Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V.
Les filtres liposolubles mixtes UVA - UVB sont choisis de préférence parmi les composés phenylbenzotriazole et les composés benzophénone, en particulier la benzophénone-3, le Drometrizole Trisiloxane et Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol notamment sous forme de dispersion aqueuse de particules micronisées, et encore plus particulièreement les composés phénylbenzotriazole tels que le Drometrizole Trisiloxane The liposoluble mixed UVA-UVB filters are preferably chosen from phenylbenzotriazole compounds and benzophenone compounds, in particular benzophenone-3, drometrizole trisiloxane and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, especially in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles, and even more particularly phenylbenzotriazole compounds such as Drometrizole Trisiloxane
2) Filtres hydrosolubles mixtes UVA et UVB 2) Water-soluble mixed UVA and UVB filters
Composés benzophénone comportant au moins un radical sulfonique comme Benzophenone compounds having at least one sulphonic radical as
- Benzophénone-4 vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « UVINUL MS Benzophenone-4 sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL MS
40 » par BASF, 40 "by BASF,
- Benzophénone-5, et Benzophenone-5, and
- Benzophénone-9. - Benzophenone-9.
De préférence, ledit au moins un filtre mixte UVA-UVB selon l'invention est un filtre liposoluble. En particulier, ledit filtre mixte UVA-UVB est choisi parmi les composés du phényl benzotriazole et les composés bis-résorcinyl triazines, de manière préférée il est choisi parmi le drometrizole trisiloxane, et leurs mélanges. Preferably, said at least one mixed UVA-UVB filter according to the invention is a fat-soluble filter. In particular, said mixed UVA-UVB filter is chosen from phenyl benzotriazole compounds and bis-resorcinyl triazine compounds, more preferably it is chosen from trisiloxane drometrizole, and mixtures thereof.
De préférence, une composition selon l'invention est caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble est présent dans une teneur allant de 0,5 à 20 , en particulier de de 1 à 15 , et de préférence de 1 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Preferably, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20, in particular from 1 to 15, and preferably from 1 to at 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, une composition de l'invention est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un composé 2-hydroxybenzophenone amino substitué, au moins un filtre choisi parmi l'acide téréphtalylidène dicamphre sulfonique, le drometrizole trisiloxane, et leurs mélanges. According to a particular embodiment, a composition of the invention is characterized in that it comprises a substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone amino compound, at least one filter selected from terephthalylidene dicamphersulfonic acid, drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
Selon une première variante préférée, la composition selon l'invention comprend en plus du composé 2-hydroxybenzophenone aminosubstitué, de l'éthylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150), du Drométrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), du Téréphtalylidène Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX), de phenylbenzimidazole, de l'éthylhexyl salicylate avec ou sans Ti02 traité ou non traité en surface. According to a first preferred variant, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises the aminosubstituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone compound, ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150), Drometzole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX), phenylbenzimidazole, ethylhexyl salicylate with or without TiO 2 treated or untreated on the surface.
Selon une deuxième variante préférée, la composition selon l'invention comprend en plus du composé 2-hydroxybenzophenone aminosubstitué, de l'éthylhexyl Méthoxycinnamate, du Drométrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), de la Bis-
Ethylhexyloxyphénol Méthoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S), du Terephtalylidène Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX), avec ou sans Ti02 traité ou non traité en surface. According to a second preferred variant, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises the aminosubstituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone compound, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, drometrazole trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), bisulfite Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S), Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX), with or without TiO2 treated or untreated on the surface.
Plus particulièrement, la composition selon l'invention comprend les mélanges de filtres UV suivants en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition : More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises the following UV filter mixtures by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
- de 0,1 à 3% d'éthylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150), de 0,5 à 6% de from 0.1 to 3% of ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150), from 0.5 to 6% of
Drométrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), de 5 à 15% de Drometzole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), 5 to 15% of
Terephtalylidène Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX), de 1 à 5% d'éthylhexyl salicylate, de 0,5 à 5 de phenylbenzimidazole, et de 2 à 8% de Ti02 traité ou non traité en surface en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition ; Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX), from 1 to 5% of ethylhexyl salicylate, from 0.5 to 5 of phenylbenzimidazole, and from 2 to 8% of TiO 2 treated or not surface-treated by weight relative to the total weight composition;
- de 4 à 10% d'éthylhexyl Méthoxycinnamate, de 2 à 6% de from 4 to 10% of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, from 2 to 6% of
Drométrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), de 0,2 à 3% de Bis- Ethylhexyloxyphénol Méthoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S), de 5 à Drometzole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), from 0.2 to 3% of Bis- Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S), from 5 to
15% de Terephtalylidène Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX),, et de 2 à 8% de Ti02 traité ou non traité en surface. 15% Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX), and 2 to 8% Ti0 2 treated or untreated surface.
ADDITIFS Additives
La composition selon l'invention peut en outre comporter des additifs comme par exemples des filtres inorganiques, des actifs, des charges, des corps gras, des polymères, des silicones. The composition according to the invention may further comprise additives, for example inorganic filters, active agents, fillers, fats, polymers or silicones.
Filtres inorganiques (ou minéraux) Inorganic filters (or minerals)
Les filtres inorganiques sont choisis parmi des pigments d'oxydes métalliques enrobés ou non dont la taille moyenne des particules primaires est préférentiellement comprise entre 5 nm et 100 nm (de préférence entre 10 nm et 50 nm) comme par exemple des pigments d'oxyde de titane (amorphe ou cristallisé sous forme rutile et/ou anatase), de fer, de zinc, de zirconium ou de cérium qui sont tous des agents photoprotecteurs UV bien connus en soi. The inorganic filters are chosen from coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments, the average size of the primary particles of which is preferably between 5 nm and 100 nm (preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm), such as for example titanium (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and / or anatase form), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium which are all UV photoprotective agents well known per se.
Les pigments peuvent être enrobés ou non enrobés. Les pigments enrobés sont des pigments qui ont subi un ou plusieurs traitements de surface de nature chimique, électronique, mécanochimique et/ou mécanique avec des composés tels que décrits par exemple dans Cosmetics & Toiletries, Février 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64, tels que des aminoacides, de la cire d'abeille, des acides gras, des alcools gras, des tensio-actifs anioniques, des lécithines, des sels de sodium, potassium, zinc, fer ou aluminium d'acides gras, des alcoxydes métalliques (de titane ou d'aluminium), du polyéthylène, des silicones, des protéines (collagène, élastine), des alcanolamines, des oxydes de silicium, des oxydes métalliques ou de l'hexamétaphosphate de sodium.
De façon connue, les silicones sont des polymères ou oligomères organo-siliciés à structure linéaire ou cyclique, ramifiée ou réticulée, de poids moléculaire variable, obtenus par polymérisation et/ou polycondensation de silanes convenablement fonctionnalisés, et constitués pour l'essentiel par une répétition de motifs principaux dans lesquels les atomes de silicium sont reliés entre eux par des atomes d'oxygène (liaison siloxane), des radicaux hydrocarbonés éventuellement substitués étant directement liés par l'intermédiaire d'un atome de carbone sur lesdits atomes de silicium. The pigments can be coated or uncoated. The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate. In a known manner, the silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and essentially constituted by a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly bonded via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.
Le terme "silicones" englobe également les silanes nécessaires à leur préparation, en particulier, les alkyl silanes. Les silicones utilisées pour l'enrobage des pigments convenant à la présente invention sont de préférence choisies dans le groupe contenant les alkyl silanes, les polydialkylsiloxanes, et les polyalkylhydrogénosiloxanes. Plus préférentiellement encore, les silicones sont choisies dans le groupe contenant l'octyl triméthyl silane, les polydiméthylsiloxanes et les polyméthylhydro-génosiloxanes. Bien entendu, les pigments d'oxydes métalliques avant leur traitement par des silicones, peuvent avoir été traités par d'autres agents de surface, en particulier par de l'oxyde de cérium, de l'alumine, de la silice, des composés de l'aluminium, des composés du silicium, ou leurs mélanges. The term "silicones" also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkyl silanes. The silicones used for coating the pigments suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from the group containing alkyl silanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes. Even more preferentially, the silicones are chosen from the group containing octyl trimethyl silane, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydro-genosiloxanes. Of course, the metal oxide pigments before their treatment with silicones, may have been treated with other surfactants, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.
Les pigments enrobés sont plus particulièrement des oxydes de titane enrobés : - de silice tels que le produit "SUNVEIL" de la société IKEDA et le produitThe coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: - silica such as the product "SUNVEIL" from the company IKEDA and the product
"Eusolex T-AVO" de la société MERCK "Eusolex T-AVO" from MERCK
- de silice et d'oxyde de fer tels que le produit "SUNVEIL F" de la société- silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F" of the company
IKEDA, Ikeda,
- de silice et d'alumine tels que les produits "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA" et "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" de la société TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" de la société TIOXIDE, et « Mirasun TiW 60 » de la société Rhodia, silica and alumina, such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" from TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from TIOXIDE, and "Mirasun TiW 60" from Rhodia,
- d'alumine tels que les produits "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)" et "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)" de la société ISHIHARA, et "UVT 14/4" de la société KEMIRA, alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)" from the company ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from the company KEMIRA,
- d'alumine et de stéarate d'aluminium tels que le produit "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 TV, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01 de la société TAYCA, les produitsalumina and aluminum stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 TV, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01 from TAYCA, the products
"Solaveil CT-10 W", "Solaveil CT 100" et "Solaveil CT 200" de la société UNIQEMA, "Solaveil CT-10 W", "Solaveil CT 100" and "Solaveil CT 200" from the company UNIQEMA,
- de silice, d'alumine et d'acide alginique tel que le produit "MT-100 AQ" de la société TAYCA,
- d'alumine et de laurate d'aluminium tel que le produit "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S" de la société TAYCA, silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ" from the company Tayca, alumina and aluminum laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S" from TAYCA,
- d'oxyde de fer et de stéarate de fer tels que le produit "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F" de la société TAYCA, - d'oxyde de zinc et de stéarate de zinc tels que le produit "BR351" de la sociétéiron oxide and iron stearate such as the product MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F from TAYCA, zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product BR351 from the company
TAYCA, Tayca,
- de silice et d'alumine et traités par une silicone tels que les produits "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS", "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS" ou "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS"de la société TAYCA, - de silice, d'alumine, de stéarate d'aluminium et traités par une silicone tels que le produit "STT-30-DS" de la société TITAN KOGYO, silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS", "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS" from the company TAYCA, - silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product "STT-30-DS" from the company TITAN KOGYO,
- de silice et traité par une silicone tel que le produit "UV-TITAN X 195" de la société KEMIRA, ou le produit SMT-100 WRS de la société TAYCA. silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195" from KEMIRA, or the product SMT-100 WRS from TAYCA.
- d'alumine et traités par une silicone tels que les produits "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)" de la société ISHIHARA, ou "UV TITAN M 262" de la société KEMIRA, de triéthanolamine tels que le produit "STT-65-S" de la société TITAN KOGYO, of alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)" from ISHIHARA, or "UV TITAN M 262" from KEMIRA, of triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65- S "from the company TITAN KOGYO,
- d'acide stéarique tels que le produit "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)" de la société ISHIHARA, d'hexamétaphosphate de sodium tels que le produit "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W" de la société TAYCA. stearic acid, such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)" from the company ISHIHARA, sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W" from the company TAYCA.
D'autres pigments d'oxyde de titane traités avec une silicone sont de préférence le Ti02 traité par l'octyl triméthyl silane et dont la taille moyenne des particules élémentaires est comprise entre 25 et 40 nm tel que celui vendu sous la dénomination commerciale "T 805" par la société DEGUSSA SILICES, le Ti02 traité par un polydiméthylsiloxane et dont la taille moyenne des particules élémentaires est de 21 nm tel que celui vendu sous la dénomination commerciale "70250 Cardre UF TÏ02SI3" par la société CARDRE, le Ti02 anatase/rutile traité par un polydiméthylhydrogénosiloxane et dont la taille moyenne des particules élémentaires est de 25 nm tel que celui vendu sous la dénomination commerciale "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXYDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC" par la société COLOR TECHNIQUES. Other titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are preferably TiO 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane and whose average elementary particle size is between 25 and 40 nm, such as that sold under the trade name " T 805 "by the company DEGUSSA SILICES, the TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and whose average elementary particle size is 21 nm, such as that sold under the trade name" 70250 Cardre UF Ti02SI3 "by CARDRE, TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane and whose average elementary particle size is 25 nm such as that sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES.
Les pigments d'oxyde de titane non enrobés sont par exemple vendus par la société TAYCA sous les dénominations commerciales "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" ou "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", par la société DEGUSSA sous la dénomination "P 25", par la société WACKHER sous la dénomination "Oxyde de titane
transparent PW", par la société MIYOSHI KASEI sous la dénomination "UFTR", par la société TOMEN sous la dénomination "ITS" et par la société TIOXIDE sous la dénomination "TIOVEIL AQ". Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by the WACKHER company under the name "Titanium oxide transparent PW ", by the company MIYOSHI KASEI under the name" UFTR ", by the company TOMEN under the name" ITS "and by the company TIOXIDE under the name" TIOVEIL AQ ".
Les pigments d'oxyde de zinc non enrobés, sont par exemple - ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Z-cote" par la société Sunsmart ; The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart;
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Nanox" par la société Elementis ; those marketed under the name "Nanox" by Elementis;
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Nanogard WCD 2025" par la société Nanophase Technologies ; those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025" by Nanophase Technologies;
Les pigments d'oxyde de zinc enrobés sont par exemple - ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination « Z-COTE HP1 » par la sociétéThe coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those sold under the name "Z-COTE HP1" by the company.
SUNSMART (ZnO enrobé dimethicone) ; SUNSMART (ZnO coated dimethicone);
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Oxide zinc CS-5" par la société Toshibi (ZnO enrobé par polymethylhydrogenesiloxane) ; those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane);
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" par la société Nanophase Technologies (en dispersion à 40% dans le Finsolv TN, benzoate d'alcools en C12-C15) ; those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate);
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "DAITOPERSION ZN-30" et "DAITOPERSION Zn-50" par la société Daito (dispersions dans cyclopolyméthylsiloxane/polydiméthylsiloxane oxyéthyléné, contenant 30 % ou 50 % de nano-oxydes de zinc enrobés par la silice et le polyméthylhydrogènesiloxane) ; those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION ZN-30" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-50" by Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated, containing 30% or 50% of zinc nano-oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogeniloxane; );
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" par la société Darkin (ZnO enrobé par phosphate de perfluoroalkyle et copolymère à base de perfluoroalkyléthyle en dispersion dans du cyclopentasiloxane) ; those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by the company Darkin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane);
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "SPD-Z1" par la société Shin-Etsu (ZnO enrobé par polymère acrylique greffé silicone, dispersé dans cyclodiméthylsiloxane) ; those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Escalol ZI 00" par la société ISP (ZnO traité alumine et dispersé dans le mélange methoxycinnamate d'ethylhexyle / copolymère PVP-hexadecene / methicone) ; those marketed under the name "Escalol ZI 00" by ISP (ZnO treated with alumina and dispersed in the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene / methicone copolymer mixture);
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" par la société Fuji Pigment (ZnO enrobé silice et polymethylsilsesquioxane) ;
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Nanox Gel TN" par la société Elementis (ZnO dispersé à 55% dans du benzoate d'alcools en C12-C15 avec polycondensat d'acide hydroxystéarique). those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN" by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alcohols benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
Les pigments d'oxyde de cérium non enrobé sont vendus par exemple sous la dénomination "COLLOÏDAL CERIUM OXIDE" par la société RHONE POULENC. Uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold for example under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE" by the company RHONE POULENC.
Les pigments d'oxyde de fer non enrobés sont par exemple vendus par la société ARNAUD sous les dénominations "NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ, "NANOGARD WCD 2006 (FE 45R)", ou par la société MITSUBISHI sous la dénomination "TY-220". Les pigments d'oxyde de fer enrobés sont par exemple vendus par la sociétéUncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ," NANOGARD WCD 2006 ( FE 45R) ", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name" TY-220 "The coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company
ARNAUD sous les dénominations "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", "NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL", ou par la société BASF sous la dénomination "OXYDE DE FER TRANSPARENT". ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", "NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL", or by the company BASF under the name " TRANSPARENT IRON OXIDE ".
On peut également citer les mélanges d'oxydes métalliques, notamment de dioxyde de titane et de dioxyde de cérium, dont le mélange équipondéral de dioxyde de titane et de dioxyde de cérium enrobés de silice, vendu par la société IKEDA sous la dénomination "SUNVEIL A", ainsi que le mélange de dioxyde de titane et de dioxyde de zinc enrobé d'alumine, de silice et de silicone tel que le produit "M 261" vendu par la société KEMIRA ou enrobé d'alumine, de silice et de glycérine tel que le produit "M 211" vendu par la société KEMIRA. Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the titanium dioxide / silica-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A". ", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product" M 261 "sold by the company KEMIRA or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as that the product "M 211" sold by KEMIRA.
Particules composites Composite particles
La composition selon l'invention peut également comprendre, à titre de filtres inorganiques, des particules composites. The composition according to the invention may also comprise, as inorganic filters, composite particles.
Les particules composites utilisables selon la présente invention comprennent une matrice et un filtre UV inorganique. La matrice comprend un ou plusieurs matériaux organiques et/ou inorganiques. Le filtre UV inorganique est généralement choisi parmi les oxydes métalliques. The composite particles usable according to the present invention comprise a matrix and an inorganic UV filter. The matrix comprises one or more organic and / or inorganic materials. The inorganic UV filter is generally chosen from metal oxides.
Selon une variante préférée, la matrice est essentiellement constituée du matériau organique et/ou inorganique. Les matériaux inorganiques utilisables dans la matrice selon la présente invention sont choisis dans le groupe formé par le mica, le mica synthétique, le talc, la sérécite, le nitrure de bore, le verre, le carbonate de calcium, le sulfate de baryum, l'hydroxyapatite, la silice, le silicate, le sulfate de magnésium, le carbonate de magnésium, le trisilicate de magnésium, l'oxyde d'aluminium, le silicate d'aluminium, le silicate de calcium, le phosphate de calcium, l'oxyde de magnésium, l'oxychlorure de bismuth, le kaolin, l'hydrotalcite, les argiles minérales, les argiles synthétiques et leurs mélanges.
Les matériaux organiques utilisables pour former la matrice sont choisis dans le groupe formé par les poly(méth)acrylates, polyamides, silicones, polyuréthanes, polyéthylènes, polypropylènes, polystyrènes, polyhydroxyalkanoates, polycaprolactames, poly(butylène)succinates, polysaccharides, polypeptides, polyvinylalcools, résines polyvinyliques, fluoropolymères, cires, les polyesters, polyéthers , et leurs mélanges. According to a preferred variant, the matrix consists essentially of organic and / or inorganic material. The inorganic materials that can be used in the matrix according to the present invention are chosen from the group formed by mica, synthetic mica, talc, sericite, boron nitride, glass, calcium carbonate, barium sulphate hydroxyapatite, silica, silicate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium trisilicate, aluminum oxide, aluminum silicate, calcium silicate, calcium phosphate, oxide magnesium, bismuth oxychloride, kaolin, hydrotalcite, mineral clays, synthetic clays and mixtures thereof. The organic materials that can be used to form the matrix are chosen from the group formed by poly (meth) acrylates, polyamides, silicones, polyurethanes, polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polystyrenes, polyhydroxyalkanoates, polycaprolactams, poly (butylene) succinates, polysaccharides, polypeptides, polyvinylalcohols, polyvinyl resins, fluoropolymers, waxes, polyesters, polyethers, and mixtures thereof.
Les filtres UV inorganiques utilisables dans la particule composite sont choisis parmi les oxydes métalliques. The inorganic UV filters that can be used in the composite particle are chosen from metal oxides.
De préférence, ces oxydes métalliques sont choisis parmi le dioxyde de titane Ti02, l'oxyde de zinc ZnO, et l'oxyde de fer FeO. De manière particulièrement préférée, le filtre UV inorganique est le Ti02. Preferably, these metal oxides are selected from titanium dioxide TiO 2 , zinc oxide ZnO, and iron oxide FeO. In a particularly preferred manner, the inorganic UV filter is TiO 2 .
Ces oxydes métalliques peuvent se présenter sous forme de particules, de taille moyenne généralement inférieure à 0,2 μιη. Avantageusement, les particules de Ti02 utilisées présentent une taille moyenne inférieure ou égale à 0,1 μιη. These metal oxides can be in the form of particles, of average size generally less than 0.2 μιη. Advantageously, the TiO 2 particles used have an average size less than or equal to 0.1 μιη.
Ces oxydes métalliques peuvent aussi se présenter sous forme de couches, de préférence de multicouches d'épaisseur moyenne généralement inférieure à 0,2 μιη. These metal oxides can also be in the form of layers, preferably multilayer of average thickness generally less than 0.2 μιη.
De préférence, la teneur en particules composites de la composition selon l'invention va de 1 à 70 , de préférence 1,5 à 45 , de manière préférée de 2 à 20 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique. Preferably, the content of composite particles of the composition according to the invention ranges from 1 to 70, preferably 1.5 to 45, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Les particules composites utilisables selon l'invention sont de préférence sphériques. The composite particles that can be used according to the invention are preferably spherical.
Elles peuvent être creuses, lisses, rugueuses, ou poreuses. They can be hollow, smooth, rough, or porous.
Lorsque les particules composites sont sous forme sphérique, elles se caractérisent par un diamètre moyen compris entre 0,1 μιη et 30 μιη, de préférence entre 0,2 μιη et 20 μιη et de manière encore préférée entre 0,3 μιη et 10 μιη, avantageusement entre 0,5 μιη et 10 μπι. When the composite particles are in spherical form, they are characterized by an average diameter of between 0.1 μm and 30 μm, preferably between 0.2 μm and 20 μm and more preferably between 0.3 μm and 10 μm, advantageously between 0.5 μιη and 10 μπι.
Par « sphérique », on entend que la particule présente un indice de sphéricité, c'est-à-dire le rapport entre son plus grand diamètre et son plus petit diamètre, inférieur à 1,2. By "spherical" is meant that the particle has a sphericity index, that is to say the ratio between its largest diameter and its smallest diameter, less than 1.2.
Formes des particules composites Forms of composite particles
Selon une première variante, les particules composites contiennent une matrice comprenant un matériau organique et/ou inorganique dans laquelle sont incluses des particules de filtre UV inorganique. De préférence, les particules composites sont constituées d'une matrice comprenant un matériau organique et /ou inorganique dans laquelle sont incluses des particules de filtre UV inorganique.
Selon cette réalisation, la matrice présente des inclusions et des particules de filtre UV inorganique sont placées dans les inclusions de la matrice. According to a first variant, the composite particles contain a matrix comprising an organic and / or inorganic material in which particles of inorganic UV filter are included. Preferably, the composite particles consist of a matrix comprising an organic and / or inorganic material in which particles of inorganic UV filter are included. According to this embodiment, the matrix has inclusions and inorganic UV filter particles are placed in the inclusions of the matrix.
De préférence, les particules composites sont sphériques et présentent des inclusions dans lesquelles sont placées des particules de filtre UV inorganique. Preferably, the composite particles are spherical and have inclusions in which particles of inorganic UV filter are placed.
A titre de particules composites correspondant à cette variante, on peut citer les produits Sunsil TIN 50 et Sunsil TIN 40 commercialisés par la société SUNJIN CHEMICAL. Ces particules composites sphériques de taille moyenne comprise entre 2 et 7 μιη sont formées de Ti02 encapsulé dans une matrice de silice. By way of composite particles corresponding to this variant, mention may be made of the Sunsil TIN 50 and Sunsil TIN 40 products marketed by SUNJIN CHEMICAL. These spherical composite particles of average size between 2 and 7 μιη are formed of Ti0 2 encapsulated in a silica matrix.
Selon une deuxième variante, les particules composites contiennent une matrice en un matériau organique et/ou inorganique recouverte d'au moins une couche de filtre UV inorganique pouvant être connectée à la matrice à l'aide d'un liant. According to a second variant, the composite particles contain a matrix made of an organic and / or inorganic material covered with at least one inorganic UV filter layer that can be connected to the matrix by means of a binder.
Selon cette deuxième variante, les particules de matrice sont, de manière préférée, de forme sphérique. According to this second variant, the matrix particles are, preferably, of spherical shape.
Selon cette deuxième variante, l'épaisseur moyenne de la couche de filtre UV inorganique est généralement d'une dizaine de nanomètres. L'épaisseur moyenne de la couche de filtre UV inorganique est avantageusement comprise entre 10" et 0,2 μιη, de préférence entre 10"2 et 0,2 μιη. According to this second variant, the average thickness of the inorganic UV filter layer is generally about ten nanometers. The average thickness of the inorganic UV filter layer is advantageously between 10 " and 0.2 μιη, preferably between 10 " 2 and 0.2 μιη.
Selon une troisième variante, les particules composites contiennent un filtre UV inorganique recouvert d'au moins une couche d'un matériau organique et/ou inorganique. Selon cette troisième variante, les particules de filtre UV inorganique se caractérisent par une taille moyenne élémentaire généralement comprise entre 10" et 0,2 μιη. Avantageusement, les particules d'oxydes métalliques utilisées présentent une taille moyenne élémentaire comprise entre 10" et 0,1 μιη . According to a third variant, the composite particles contain an inorganic UV filter coated with at least one layer of an organic and / or inorganic material. According to this third variant, the particles of inorganic UV filter are characterized by an average elementary size generally between 10 " and 0.2 μιη Advantageously, the particles of metal oxides used have an average elementary size of between 10 " and 0, 1 μιη.
La matrice peut être formée d'un ou plusieurs matériaux organiques ou inorganiques. Il peut alors s'agir d'une phase continue de matériaux comme un alliage, c'est- à-dire une phase continue dans laquelle les matériaux ne sont plus dissociables, ou d'une phase discontinue de matériaux, par exemple constituée d'un matériau organique ou inorganique recouvert d'une couche d'un autre matériau organique ou inorganique différent. The matrix may be formed of one or more organic or inorganic materials. It can then be a continuous phase of materials such as an alloy, that is to say a continuous phase in which the materials are no longer dissociable, or a discontinuous phase of materials, for example consisting of an organic or inorganic material covered with a layer of another organic or inorganic material different.
Selon une variante, en particulier lorsque les particules composites comprennent une matrice recouverte d'une couche de filtre UV, les particules composites peuvent de plus être recouvertes d'un revêtement supplémentaire en particulier choisi parmi les matériaux biodégradables ou biocompatibles, les matériaux lipidiques comme par exemple les tensioactifs ou les émulsifiants, les polymères, et les oxydes. According to a variant, in particular when the composite particles comprise a matrix covered with a UV filter layer, the composite particles may furthermore be covered with an additional coating, in particular chosen from biodegradable or biocompatible materials, lipid materials such as by Examples are surfactants or emulsifiers, polymers, and oxides.
Les particules composites utilisées selon l'invention sont de taille comprise entre 0,1 et 30 μιη, de préférence entre 0,5 et 20 μιη et de manière encore préférée entre 0,3 et 10 μιη, avantageusement entre 0,5 et 10 μιη.
De préférence, le filtre UV utilisé dans la particule composite est du Ti02 ou un mélange de Ti02 et de ZnO. The composite particles used according to the invention have a size of between 0.1 and 30 μιη, preferably between 0.5 and 20 μιη and more preferably between 0.3 and 10 μιη, advantageously between 0.5 and 10 μιη. . Preferably, the UV filter used in the composite particle is Ti0 2 or a mixture of Ti0 2 and ZnO.
De préférence, la matrice de la particule composite sphérique contient un matériau ou un mélange de matériaux choisi parmi : - la Si02, Preferably, the matrix of the spherical composite particle contains a material or a mixture of materials chosen from: - Si0 2,
- le polyméthacrylate de méthyle, polymethyl methacrylate,
- les copolymères de styrène et d'un dérivé de (méth)acrylate d'alkyle en C1/C5, copolymers of styrene and a C1-C5 alkyl (meth) acrylate derivative,
- les polyamides tels que les nylons. polyamides such as nylons.
A titre de particules composites correspondant à cette variante, on peut citer les produits Sunsil TIN 50 et Sunsil TIN 40 commercialisés par la société SUNJIN CHEMICAL. Ces particules composites sphériques de taille moyenne comprise entre 2 et 7 μιη sont formées de Ti02 encapsulé dans une matrice de silice. By way of composite particles corresponding to this variant, mention may be made of the Sunsil TIN 50 and Sunsil TIN 40 products marketed by SUNJIN CHEMICAL. These spherical composite particles of average size between 2 and 7 μιη are formed of TiO2 encapsulated in a silica matrix.
On peut encore citer les particules suivantes : We can also mention the following particles:
- Particules composites sphériques de taille moyenne comprise entre 4 et 8 μιη, contenant du Ti02 et du Si02 de nom commercial Eospoly TR commercialisé par la sociétéSpherical composite particles of average size between 4 and 8 μιη, containing Ti0 2 and SiO 2 with the trade name Eospoly TR marketed by the company
CREATIONS COULEURS, COLOR CREATIONS,
- Particules composites contenant du Ti02 et une matrice de copolymère styrène/acrylate d'alkyle commercialisé sous le nom Eospoly UV TR22 HB 50 par la société CREATIONS COULEURS, - Particules composites contenant du Ti02 et du ZnO et une matrice de PMMA de nom commercial Sun PMMA-T50 commercialisé par la société SUNJIN CHEMICAL. Composite Particles Containing Ti0 2 and a Styrene / Alkyl Acrylate Copolymer Matrix Sold under the Name Eospoly UV TR22 HB 50 by the Company Couleurs Couleurs, Composite Particles Containing Ti0 2 and ZnO and a Name PMMA Matrix Sun PMMA-T50 commercialized by the company SUNJIN CHEMICAL.
Parmi les particules composites utilisables selon l'invention, on peut encore citer les particules composites sphériques contenant du Ti02 et du Si02 de nom commercial STM ACS-0050510, fourni par la société JGC Catalysts and Chemical. De préférence, les filtres inorganiques sont choisis parmi le titanium dioxide, éventuellement enrobé d'aluminium hydroxide et d'acide stearique, le titanium dioxide éventuellement enrobé d'acide stéarique et d'alumine et leurs mélanges. Among the composite particles that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of spherical composite particles containing TiO 2 and SiO 2 under the tradename STM ACS-0050510, supplied by the company JGC Catalysts and Chemical. Preferably, the inorganic filters are chosen from titanium dioxide, optionally coated with aluminum hydroxide and stearic acid, titanium dioxide optionally coated with stearic acid and alumina, and mixtures thereof.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l'invention, le au moins un filtre inorganique est présent dans la composition selon l'invention dans une teneur allant de 0,01 à 20 % en poids, de préférence de 0,1 à 10 % en poids, de manière préférée de 0,5 à 7 % en poids, et en particulier de 1 à 6 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.
Les compositions conformes à la présente invention peuvent comprendre en outre des adjuvants cosmétiques classiques notamment choisis parmi les solvants organiques, les épaississants ioniques ou non ioniques, hydrophiles ou lipophiles, les adoucissants, les humectants, les opacifiants, les stabilisants, les émollients, les silicones, les agents anti- mousse, les parfums, les conservateurs, les tensioactifs anioniques, cationiques, non-ioniques, zwitterioniques ou amphotères, les charges, les polymères, les propulseurs, les agents alcalinisants ou acidifiants ou tout autre ingrédient habituellement utilisé dans le domaine cosmétique et/ou dermatologique. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the at least one inorganic filter is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight. weight, preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, and in particular from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions in accordance with the present invention may furthermore comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, chosen in particular from organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients and silicones. , defoamers, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient normally used in the field cosmetic and / or dermatological.
Parmi les solvants organiques, on peut citer les alcools et polyols inférieurs. Ces derniers peuvent être choisis parmi les glycols comme le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, le dipropylène glycol, la glycérine, le 1,3-propanediol, le pentylène glycol ou l'hexylène glycol. Among the organic solvents, mention may be made of lower alcohols and polyols. These can be selected from glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol or hexylene glycol.
Comme épaississants hydrophiles, on peut citer les polymères carboxyvinyliques tels que les Carbopols (Carbomers) et les Pemulen (Copolymère acrylate/C10-C30- alkylacrylate) ; les polyacrylamides comme par exemple les copolymères réticulés vendus sous les noms Sepigel 305 (nom C.T.F.A. : polyacrylamide/C13-C14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) ou Simulgel 600 (nom C.T.F.A. : acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) par la société Seppic ; les polymères et copolymères d'acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique, éventuellement réticulés et/ou neutralisés, comme le Poly(acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique) commercialisé par la société Hoechst sous la dénomination commerciale « Hostacerin AMPS® » (nom CTFA : ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate ou le SIMULGEL 800 commercialisé par la société SEPPIC (nom CTFA : sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate) ; les copolymères d'acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique et d'hydroxyethyl acrylate comme le SIMULGEL NS et le SEPINOV EMT 10 commercialisés par la société SEPPIC ; les composés cellulosiques tels que l'hydroxyéthylcellulose ; les polysaccharides et notamment les gommes telles que la gomme de Xanthane ; et leurs mélanges. As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-C14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic ; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as Poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trademark "Hostacerin AMPS®" ( CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMULGEL 800 marketed by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS and SEPINOV EMT 10 marketed by the company SEPPIC, cellulosic compounds such as hydroxyethylcellulose, polysaccharides and especially gums such as Xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.
Comme épaississants lipophiles, on peut citer les polymères synthétiques tels que les poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylates vendu sous la dénomination « INTELIMER IPA 13-1 » et « INTELIMER IPA 13-6 » par la société Landec ou encore les argiles modifiées telles que l'hectorite et ses dérivés, comme les produits commercialisés sous les noms de Bentone. Mention may be made, as lipophilic thickeners, of synthetic polymers such as the poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylates sold under the name "IPA INTELIMER 13-1" and "INTELIMER IPA 13-6" by the company Landec, or modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, such as the products marketed under the Bentone name.
Bien entendu, l'homme de l'art veillera à choisir le ou les éventuels composés complémentaires cités ci-dessus et/ou leurs quantités de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses attachées intrinsèquement aux compositions conformes à l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par la ou les adjonctions envisagées. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound (s) mentioned above and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or substantially, not, altered by the addition or additions envisaged.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent être préparées selon les techniques bien connues de l'homme de l'art. Elles peuvent se présenter en particulier sous forme
d'émulsion directe, inverse ou multiple (H/E, E/H, H/E/H ou E/H/E). Elles peuvent éventuellement être conditionnées en aérosol et se présenter sous forme de spray. The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They may be in particular in the form of direct, inverse or multiple emulsion (O / W, W / O, O / W / H or W / O / W). They may optionally be packaged in an aerosol and be in the form of a spray.
De préférence, les compositions selon l'invention se présentent sous la forme d'une émulsion huile-dans-eau ou eau-dans huile et plus particulièrement des émulsions huile-dans-eau. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion and more particularly oil-in-water emulsions.
Les émulsions contiennent généralement au moins un émulsionnant choisi parmi les émulsionnants amphotères, anioniques, cationiques ou non ioniques, utilisés seuls ou en mélange. Les émulsionnants sont choisis de manière appropriée suivant l'émulsion à obtenir (E/H ou H/E). Les émulsions peuvent contenir également d'autres types de stabilisants comme par exemple des charges, des polymères gélifiants ou épaississants. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsions may also contain other types of stabilizers, for example fillers, gelling or thickening polymers.
Comme tensioactifs émulsionnants utilisables pour la préparation des émulsions E/H, on peut citer par exemple les alkyl esters ou éthers de sorbitane, de glycérol ou de sucres ; les tensioactifs siliconés comme les diméthicone copolyols tels que le mélange diméthicone et PEG/polypropylène glycol (PPG) 18/18 diméthicone, vendu sous la dénomination « X-22-6711D » par la société Shin Etsu, et les alkyl-dimethicone copolyols tels que le Laurylmethicone copolyol vendu sous la dénomination "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" par la société Dow Corning ; le Cetyl diméthicone copolyol tel que le produit vendu sous la dénomination Abil EM 90R par la société Goldschmidt et le mélange de cétyl diméthicone copolyol, d'isostéarate de polyglycérole (4 moles) et de laurate d'hexyle vendu sous la dénomination ABIL WE 09 par la société Goldschmidt. On peut y ajouter aussi un ou plusieurs co-émulsionnants, qui, de manière avantageuse, peuvent être choisis dans le groupe comprenant les esters alkylés de polyol ou les élastomères de silicone émulsionnant tels que le mélange de diméthicone et de polymère réticulé de diméthicone/ PEG-10/15 vendu sous la dénomination « KSG-210 ». Comme esters alkylés de polyol, on peut citer notamment les esters de polyéthylèneglycol comme le PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate tel que le produit commercialisé sous le nom Arlacel PI 35 par la socité ICI. As emulsifying surfactants that may be used for the preparation of W / O emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol or of sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as dimethicone and PEG / polypropylene glycol (PPG) 18/18 dimethicone, sold under the name "X-22-6711D" by Shin Etsu, and alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning; cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added, which advantageously may be chosen from the group comprising alkylated polyol esters or emulsifying silicone elastomers, such as the mixture of dimethicone and cross-linked dimethicone / PEG polymer. -10/15 sold under the name "KSG-210". Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel PI 35 by the company ICI.
Comme esters de glycérol et/ou de sorbitan, on peut citer par exemple l'isostéarate de polyglycérol, tel que le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination Isolan GI 34 par la société Goldschmidt ; l'isostéarate de sorbitan, tel que le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination Arlacel 987 par la société ICI ; l'isostéarate de sorbitan et le glycérol, tel que le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination Arlacel 986 par la société ICI, et leurs mélanges. Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned are polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
Pour les émulsions H/E, on peut citer par exemple comme émulsionnants, les émulsionnants non ioniques tels que les esters d'acides gras et de glycérol oxyalkylénés (plus particulièrement polyoxyéthylénés) ; les esters d'acides gras et de sorbitan oxyalkylénés ; les esters d'acides gras oxyalkylénés (oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés) comme le mélange PEG-100 Stéarate/ Glyceryl Stéarate commercialisé par exemple par la société ICI sous la
dénomination Arlacel 165 ; les éthers d'alcools gras oxyalkylénés (oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés) ; les esters de sucres comme le stéarate de sucrose ; les éthers d'alcool gras et de sucre, notamment les alkylpolyglucosides (APG) tels que le décylglucoside et le laurylglucoside commercialisés par exemple par la société Henkel sous les dénominations respectives Plantaren 2000 et Plantaren 1200, le cétostéarylglucoside éventuellement en mélange avec l'alcool cétostéarylique, commercialisé par exemple sous la dénomination Montanov 68 par la société Seppic, sous la dénomination Tegocare CG90 par la société Goldschmidt et sous la dénomination Emulgade KE3302 par la société Henkel, ainsi que l'arachidyl glucoside, par exemple sous la forme du mélange d'alcools arachidique et béhénique et d'arachidylglucoside commercialisé sous la dénomination Montanov 202 par la société Seppic. Selon un mode particulier de réalisation de l'invention, le mélange de l'alkylpolyglucoside tel que défini ci-dessus avec l'alcool gras correspondant peut être sous forme d'une composition auto-émulsionnante, comme décrit par exemple dans le document WO-A-92/06778. Les exemples qui suivent illustent l'invention sans en limiter la portée. For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) such as the mixture PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate marketed for example by the company ICI under the Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearylglucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol; , marketed for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company Seppic. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in WO- A-92/06778. The following examples illustrate the invention without limiting its scope.
Dans la description et les exemples, les pourcentages sont des pourcentages pondéraux. Les ingrédients sont mélangés, dans l'ordre et dans les conditions facilement déterminés par l'homme de l'art. In the description and examples, percentages are percentages by weight. The ingredients are mixed in the order and under the conditions readily determined by those skilled in the art.
Exemples Examples
Exemple 1 : Compositions conformes à l'invention Example 1 Compositions in Accordance with the Invention
Les compositions sont préparées en mélangeant les ingrédients suivants : exemple 1 (% exemple 2 The compositions are prepared by mixing the following ingredients: Example 1 (% Example 2
Nom INCI INCI name
en poids) (% en poids) by weight) (% by weight)
Disodium EDTA 0,05 0,05 Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05
Tocopherol 0,5 0,5 Tocopherol 0.5 0.5
Triethanolamine 2,5 1,7 Triethanolamine 2.5 1.7
Conservateur qs qs Conservative qs qs
Hyaluronate de sodium 0,001 0,001 Sodium hyaluronate 0,001 0,001
Dicapryl carbonate 3 Dicapryl carbonate 3
Cetyl alcohol 0,7 0,7 Cetyl alcohol 0.7 0.7
Glycyrrhizate 0,001 Glycyrrhizate 0.001
Tromethamine 1,25 0,33 Tromethamine 1.25 0.33
Resveratrol 0,25 0,25 Resveratrol 0.25 0.25
2-(4-diéthylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)- benzoate de n-hexyle ("Uvinul A Plus®" 2 2 N-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate ("Uvinul A Plus®" 2 2
de BASF) from BASF)
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7,1 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.1
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3
exemple 1 (% exemple 2 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 example 1 (% example 2
Nom INCI INCI name
en poids) ( en poids) by weight) (by weight)
Ethylhexyl salicylate (NEO HELIOPAN Ethylhexyl salicylate (NEO HELIOPAN
OS de SYMRISE) SYMRISE OS)
Ethylhexyl triazone (UVINUL T 150 de Ethylhexyl triazone (UVINUL T 150 from
1,5 1.5
BASF) BASF)
Terephtalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid Terephtalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid
12 7,5 12 7.5
(MEXORYL SX) (MEXORYL SX)
Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 2 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 2
Drometrizole trisiloxane (MEXORYL XL) 1 6 Drometrizole trisiloxane (MEXORYL XL) 1 6
Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl
1,5 1.5
triazine triazine
Titanium dioxide (and) aluminium A Titanium dioxide (and) aluminum A
hydroxide (and) stearic acid hydroxide (and) stearic acid
Oxyde titane encapsulé dans des Titanium oxide encapsulated in
microsphères de silice (SUNSIL TIN 50 de 6 silica microspheres (SUNSIL TIN 50 of 6
SUNJIN) SUNJIN)
Carrraghénane 1 Carrragenian 1
Xanthan gum 0,1 Xanthan gum 0,1
Carbomer 0,4 0,4 Carbomer 0.4 0.4
Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate 0,2 Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate 0.2
ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM ACRYLAMIDE / SODIUM
ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE 0,2 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE 0.2
COPOLYMER Copolymer
Dimethicone 2 CS 4 Dimethicone 2 CS 4
Dimethicone (DOW CORNING TORAY Dimethicone (DOW CORNING TORAY
SH200 C FLUID 5CS de DOW 3 SH200 C FLUID 5CS from DOW 3
CORNING) CORNING)
DIMETHICONE (BELSIL DM 350 de DIMETHICONE (BELSIL DM 350 from
0,5 0,5 0.5 0.5
WACKER) WACKER)
Ethanol 7 3 Ethanol 7 3
Glycerin 9,15 4 Glycerin 9,15 4
Glycols 4 7,34 Glycols 4 7.34
Stearic acid 2 2 Stearic acid 2 2
Potassium cetyl phosphate 1 1 Potassium cetyl phosphate 1 1
Glyceryl stéarate (and) PEG-100 stéarate 1,5 1,5 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate 1.5 1.5
Sodium cocoyl sarcosinate 1 Sodium cocoyl sarcosinate 1
Water Qspl00 Qspl00 Water Qspl00 Qspl00
Les émulsions des exemples 1 et 2 sont fines, homogènes, brillantes, lisses et stables dans le temps. The emulsions of Examples 1 and 2 are fine, homogeneous, shiny, smooth and stable over time.
On a mesuré le % résiduel en iraws'-resvératrol :
Compositions conformes à The residual% in iraws'-resveratrol was measured: Compositions conforming to
l'invention the invention
1 2 1 2
SPF >50 >50 SPF> 50> 50
PPD 20 >20 PPD 20> 20
Rapport Report
3,6 2,2 3.6 2.2
SPF/PPD SPF / PPD
% résiduel en % residual
trans- 100 96 trans- 100 96
resvératrol (1) ( Le pourcentage résiduel en resveratrol est mesuré après une exposition de la composition à 5 J/cm2 d'UV, ce qui correspond à une dose journalière. resveratrol (1) ( The residual percentage of resveratrol is measured after an exposure of the composition at 5 J / cm 2 of UV, which corresponds to a daily dose.
Les deux compositions conformes à l'invention présentent un pourcentage résiduel en resveratrol après une exposition de la composition à 5 J/cm2 d'UV, très élevé ce qui signifie que ce dernier se dégrade très peu au contact de la lumière du jour.
The two compositions according to the invention have a residual percentage of resveratrol after exposure of the composition to 5 J / cm 2 of UV, very high which means that the latter degrades very little in contact with daylight.
Claims
1. Composition cosmétique ou dermatologique comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins du iraws-resveratrol et/ou au moins un dérivé de iraws'-resvératrol, et un système filtrant comprenant a) au moins un filtre UVA long liposoluble 2-hydroxybenzophénone amino- substitués et b) au moins un filtre UV additionnel choisi parmi les filtres organiques UVA hydrosolubles, les filtres organiques mixtes UVA- UVB liposolubles, les filtres minéraux et/ou leurs mélanges. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least iraws-resveratrol and / or at least one derivative of iraws'-resveratrol, and a filtering system comprising a) at least one long-term UVA-soluble filter 2-hydroxybenzophenone amino-substituted and b) at least one additional UV filter chosen from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents, liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic screening agents, mineral filters and / or their mixtures.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1 caractérisée en ce que le filtre 2- hydroxybenzophénone amino- substitués est choisi parmi les composés répondant à la formule (I) suivante : 2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone filter is chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I):
1 2 1 2
R et R , identiques ou différents, désignent un radical alkyle en C1-C20, un alcényle en C2-C20, un cycloalkyle en C3-C10, un cycloalcényle en C3-C10 ou forment avec l'atome d'azote avec lequel ils sont liés un cycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons ; n est un nombre allant de 1 à 4 ; quand n = 1, R désigne un radical alkyle en C1-C20, un radical alcenyle en C1-C20, un hydroxyalkyle en C1-C5, un cyclohexyle en C6-C12, un phényle pouvant être substitué par O, N ou S, un radical aminocarbonyle ou un radical alkylcarbonyle en C1-C5 ; quand n = 2, R désigne un diradical alkyle, un diradical cycloalkyle, un diradical alcényle ou un diradical aryle ou R avec E forment un diradical de formule (II) : R and R, identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical, a C 2 -C 20 alkenyl, a C 3 -C 10 cycloalkyl or a C 3 -C 10 cycloalkenyl or form with the nitrogen atom with which they are linked to a 5- or 6-membered ring; n is a number from 1 to 4; when n = 1, R denotes a C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 20 alkenyl radical, a C 1 -C 5 hydroxyalkyl radical or a C 6 -C 12 cyclohexyl radical, a phenyl which may be substituted by O, N or S an aminocarbonyl radical or a C1-C5 alkylcarbonyl radical; when n = 2, R denotes an alkyl diradical, a cycloalkyl diradical, an alkenyl diradical or an aryl diradical or R with E form a diradical of formula (II):
avec m un nombre allant de 1 à 3 ; quand n = 3, R est un triradical alkyle ; quand n = 4 , R est un tetraradical alkyle ;
E est -O-, ou -N(R )- ou N ; with m a number ranging from 1 to 3; when n = 3, R is an alkyl triradical; when n = 4, R is an alkyl tetraradical; E is -O-, or -N (R) - or N;
R4 est hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C5 ou hydroxyalkyle en C1-C5. R 4 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 5 alkyl or C 1 -C 5 hydroxyalkyl radical.
3. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que le filtre 2-hydroxybenzophénone amino- substitués est le 2-(4-diéthylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle de formule (a) : 3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone filter is n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate of formula (a):
4. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 3 caractérisée en ce que le filtre 2-hydroxybenzophénone amino- substitués est présent à des teneurs qui varient de 0,1 à 10% en poids, et plus préférentiellement de 0,25 à 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition 4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3 characterized in that the amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone filter is present in contents ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.25 to 5%. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
5. Composition selon selon l'une des revendications 1 à 4, dans laquelle ledit iraws'-resvératrol et/ou dérivé(s) de iraws'-resvératrol est présent dans une teneur allant de 0,001 à 10 %, de préférence de 0,01 à 5 % en poids, de manière préférée de 0,05 à 2 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said iraws'-resveratrol and / or derivative (s) of iraws'-resveratrol is present in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10%, preferably from 0, From 1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 5 caractérisée en ce que ladite composition possédant un SPF supérieur ou égal à 25 et un PPD supérieur ou égal à 8. 6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that said composition having an SPF greater than or equal to 25 and a PPD greater than or equal to 8.
7. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisée en ce que le rapport SPF/PPD va de 1 à 5, de préférence, de 1,5 à 4,5 et mieux de 2 à 4. 7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the SPF / PPD ratio ranges from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.5 to 4.5 and better from 2 to 4.
8. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisée en ce que le ou les filtres UV aditionnels sont choisis parmi au moins un filtre organique UVA hydrosoluble et au moins un filtre organique mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble et éventuellement au moins un filtre minéral. 8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the one or more additional UV filters are chosen from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter and at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter and optionally at least one filter mineral.
9. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisée en ce que le ou les filtres UV aditionnels sont choisis parmi au moins un filtre organique UVA hydrosoluble et au moins un filtre organique UVB liposoluble, et éventuellement au moins un filtre minéral. 9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the or additional UV filters are selected from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter and at least one liposoluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
10. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisée en ce que le ou les filtres UV aditionnels sont choisis parmi au moins un filtre organique UVA hydrosoluble, au moins un filtre organique mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble et au moins un filtre organique UVB liposoluble, et éventuellement au moins un filtre minéral. 10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the one or more additional UV filters are chosen from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter and at least one organic filter. Liposoluble UVB, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
11. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisée en ce que le ou les filtres UV aditionnels sont choisis parmi au moins un filtre organique UVA hydrosoluble, au moins un filtre organique mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble, au moins un filtre organique UVB liposoluble et au moins un filtre organique UVB hydrosoluble, et éventuellement au moins un filtre minéral.
11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the or additional UV filters are selected from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter, at least one organic filter. Liposoluble UVB and at least one water-soluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
12. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVA hydrosoluble est choisi parmi les composés liposolubles du dibenzoylméthane, les composés hydrosolubles du camphre et leurs mélanges. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is chosen from fat-soluble compounds of dibenzoylmethane, water-soluble compounds of camphor and mixtures thereof.
13. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVA hydrosoluble est choisi parmi le butyl méthoxydibenzoyleméthane, l'acide téréphtalylidène dicamphre sulfonique et leurs mélanges. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is chosen from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, terephthalylidene dicamphersulfonic acid and mixtures thereof.
14. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVA hydrosoluble est présent dans une teneur allant de 1 à 20 % et en particulier de 3 à 15 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is present in a content ranging from 1 to 20% and in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre liposoluble UVB est choisi parmi les salicylates, les cinnamates, les composés β,β'-diphénylacrylate, les composés triazine et leurs mélanges. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is selected from salicylates, cinnamates, β, β'-diphenylacrylate compounds, triazine compounds and mixtures thereof.
16. Composition selon la revendication 9 à 11 et 15, caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVB liposoluble est choisi parmi l'éthylhexyl salicylate, l'éthylhexyl méthoxycinnamate, l'éthylhexyl triazone et leurs mélanges. 16. Composition according to claim 9 to 11 and 15, characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is selected from ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl triazone and mixtures thereof.
17. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes 9 à 11, 15, 16 caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVB liposoluble est présent dans une teneur allant de 0,5 à 20 , en particulier de 1 à 15 % et de préférence, de 1,2 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 9 to 11, 15, 16, characterized in that the said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20, in particular from 1 to 15%, and preferably from 1.2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
18. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que le filtre mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble est choisi parmi les composés phényl benzotriazole et bis-résorcinyl triazines, de manière préférée parmi le drometrizole trisiloxane, et leurs mélanges. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed filter is chosen from phenyl benzotriazole and bis-resorcinyl triazines compounds, preferably from drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
19. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes 1, 15 caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble est présent dans une teneur allant de 0,5 à 20 , en particulier de de 1 à 15 , et de préférence de 1 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1, characterized in that the said at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20, in particular from 1 to 15, and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
20. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que ledit système filtrant comprend au moins un filtre additionnel choisi parmi l'acide téréphtalylidène dicamphre sulfonique, le drometrizole trisiloxane et leurs mélanges. 20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said filtering system comprises at least one additional filter selected from terephthalylidene dicamphersulfonic acid, drometrizole trisiloxane and mixtures thereof.
21. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle se présente sous la forme d'une émulsion huile-dans-eau ou eau- dans huile et plus particulièrement des émulsions huile-dans-eau. 21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion and more particularly oil-in-water emulsions.
22. Procédé de stabilisation, en particulier de photostabilisation, d'une composition comprenant du iraws'-resvératrol et/ou au moins un dérivé de iraws'-resvératrol comprenant une étape lors de laquelle on ajoute à ladite composition un système filtrant comprenant a) au moins un filtre UVA long liposoluble et b) au moins un filtre UV additionnel choisi parmi les filtres organiques UVA hydrosolubles, les filtres organiques mixtes UVA-UVB liposolubles, les filtres minéraux et/ou leurs mélanges , de préférence en une quantité telle que le SPF de la composition est porté à une valeur supérieure ou égale à 25 et le PPD de la composition est porté à une valeur supérieure ou égale 8.
22. A method for stabilizing, in particular photostabilization, a composition comprising iraws'-resveratrol and / or at least one derivative of iraws'-resveratrol comprising a step in which a filtering system comprising: at least one liposoluble long UVA filter and b) at least one additional UV filter chosen from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents, liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic screening agents, mineral filters and / or their mixtures, preferably in an amount such that the SPF of the composition is brought to a value greater than or equal to 25 and the PPD of the composition is brought to a value greater than or equal to 8.
23. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 21 ou 22, caractérisé en ce que le ou les filtres UV aditionnels sont choisis parmi au moins un filtre organique UVA hydrosoluble et au moins un filtre organique UVB liposoluble, et éventuellement au moins un filtre minéral. 23. Method according to one of claims 21 or 22, characterized in that the or additional UV filters are selected from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter and at least one liposoluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
24. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 21 à 23, caractérisé en ce que le ou les filtres UV aditionnels sont choisis parmi au moins un filtre organique UVA hydrosoluble, au moins un filtre organique mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble et au moins un filtre organique UVB liposoluble, et éventuellement au moins un filtre minéral. 24. Method according to one of claims 21 to 23, characterized in that the additional UV filters are chosen from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter and at least one organic filter. Liposoluble UVB, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
25. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 21 à 23, caractérisé en ce que le ou les filtres UV aditionnels sont choisis parmi au moins un filtre organique UVA hydrosoluble, au moins un filtre organique mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble, au moins un filtre organique UVB liposoluble et au moins un filtre organique UVB hydrosoluble, et éventuellement au moins un filtre minéral. 25. Method according to one of claims 21 to 23, characterized in that the additional UV filter (s) are chosen from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter, at least one organic filter. Liposoluble UVB and at least one water-soluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
26. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 21 à 25, caractérisé en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVA hydrosoluble est choisi parmi les composés liposolubles du dibenzoylméthane, les composés hydrosolubles du camphre et leurs mélanges. 26. Method according to any one of claims 21 to 25, characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is selected from fat-soluble compounds of dibenzoylmethane, water-soluble compounds of camphor and mixtures thereof.
27. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 21 à 26, caractérisé en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVA hydrosoluble est choisi parmi le butyl méthoxydibenzoyleméthane, l'acide téréphtalylidène dicamphre sulfonique et leurs mélanges. 27. Method according to any one of claims 21 to 26, characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, terephthalylidene dicamphersulfonic acid and mixtures thereof.
28. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 21 à 27, caractérisé en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVA hydrosoluble est présent dans une teneur allant de 1 à 20 % et en particulier de 3 à 15 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 28. Method according to any one of claims 21 to 27, characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is present in a content ranging from 1 to 20% and in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.
29. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 21 à 28, caractérisé en ce que ledit au moins un filtre liposoluble UVB est choisi parmi les composés salicyliques, les cinnamates, les composés β,β'-diphénylacrylate, les composés triazine et leurs mélanges. 29. Method according to any one of claims 21 to 28, characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is selected from salicylic compounds, cinnamates, β, β'-diphenylacrylate compounds, triazine compounds and mixtures thereof .
30. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 21 à 29, caractérisé en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVB liposoluble est choisi parmi l'éthylhexyl salicylate, l'éthylhexyl méthoxycinnamate, l'éthylhexyl triazone et leurs mélanges. 30. Process according to any one of claims 21 to 29, characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is chosen from ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl triazone and their mixtures.
31. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes 21 à 30 caractérisé en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVB liposoluble est présent dans une teneur allant de 0,5 à 20 , en particulier de 1 à 15 % et de préférence, de 1,2 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 31. Method according to any one of the preceding claims 21 to 30 characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20, in particular from 1 to 15% and preferably from 1.2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
32. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 21 à 31, caractérisé en ce que le filtre mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble est choisi parmi les composés du phényl benzotriazole et les composés bis-résorcinyl triazines, de manière préférée parmi le drometrizole trisiloxane, le bis-ethylhexyloxyphénol méthoxyphenyl triazine, et leurs mélanges. 32. Process according to any one of claims 21 to 31, characterized in that the liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed filter is chosen from phenyl benzotriazole compounds and bis-resorcinyl triazine compounds, preferably from drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof.
33. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 21 à 32, caractérisé en ce que ledit au moins un filtre mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble est présent dans une teneur allant de 0,5 à 20 , en particulier de de 1 à 15 , et de préférence de 1 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 33. Method according to any one of claims 21 to 32, characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20, in particular from 1 to 15, and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
34. Utilisation d'un système filtrant comprenant au moins un filtre UVA long liposoluble 2-hydroxybenzophénone amino- substitués et au moins un filtre UV additionnel choisi parmi les filtres organiques UVA hydrosolubles, les filtres organiques mixtes UVA-
UVB liposolubles, les filtres minéraux et/ou leurs mélanges pour stabiliser notamment photostabiliser une composition comprenant du iraws'-resvératrol et/ou au moins un dérivé de iraws'-resvératrol. 34. Use of a filtering system comprising at least one amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone liposoluble long UVA filter and at least one additional UV filter chosen from water-soluble UVA organic screening agents, mixed organic UVA-screening filters and Liposoluble UVBs, mineral filters and / or their mixtures for stabilizing in particular photostabilize a composition comprising iraws'-resveratrol and / or at least one derivative of iraws'-resveratrol.
35. Utilisation selon l'une des revendications 34, caractérisée en ce que le ou les filtres UV aditionnels sont choisis parmi au moins un filtre organique UVA hydrosoluble et au moins un filtre organique UVB liposoluble, et éventuellement au moins un filtre minéral. 35. Use according to one of claims 34, characterized in that the one or more additional UV filters are chosen from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter and at least one liposoluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
36. Utilisation selon l'une des revendications 34 ou 35, caractérisée en ce que le ou les filtres UV aditionnels sont choisis parmi au moins un filtre organique UVA hydrosoluble, au moins un filtre organique mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble et au moins un filtre organique UVB liposoluble, et éventuellement au moins un filtre minéral. 36. Use according to one of claims 34 or 35, characterized in that the one or more additional UV filters are chosen from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter and at least one organic filter. Liposoluble UVB, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
37. Utilisation selon l'une des revendications 34 à 36, caractérisée en ce que le ou les filtres UV aditionnels sont choisis parmi au moins un filtre organique UVA hydrosoluble, au moins un filtre organique mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble, au moins un filtre organique UVB liposoluble et au moins un filtre organique UVB hydrosoluble, et éventuellement au moins un filtre minéral. 37. Use according to one of claims 34 to 36, characterized in that the one or more additional UV filters are chosen from at least one water-soluble UVA organic filter, at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed organic filter, at least one organic filter. Liposoluble UVB and at least one water-soluble organic UVB filter, and optionally at least one mineral filter.
38. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 34 à 37, caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVA hydrosoluble est choisi parmi les composés liposolubles du dibenzoylméthane, les composés hydrosolubles du camphre et leurs mélanges. 38. Use according to any one of claims 34 to 37, characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is selected from fat-soluble compounds of dibenzoylmethane, water-soluble compounds of camphor and mixtures thereof.
39. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 34 à 38, caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVA hydrosoluble est choisi parmi le butyl méthoxydibenzoyleméthane, l'acide téréphtalylidène dicamphre sulfonique et leurs mélanges. 39. Use according to any one of claims 34 to 38, characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is chosen from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, terephthalylidene dicamphersulfonic acid and mixtures thereof.
40. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 34 à 39, caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVA hydrosoluble est présent dans une teneur allant de 1 à 20 % et en particulier de 3 à 15 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 40. Use according to any one of claims 34 to 39, characterized in that said at least one water-soluble UVA filter is present in a content ranging from 1 to 20% and in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.
41. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 34 à 40, caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre liposoluble UVB est choisi parmi les composés salicyliques, les cinnamates, les composés β,β'-diphénylacrylate, les composés triazine et leurs mélanges. 41. Use according to any one of claims 34 to 40, characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is selected from salicylic compounds, cinnamates, β, β'-diphenylacrylate compounds, triazine compounds and mixtures thereof .
42. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 34 à 41, caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVB liposoluble est choisi parmi l'éthylhexyl salicylate, l'éthylhexyl méthoxycinnamate, l'éthylhexyl triazone et leurs mélanges. 42. Use according to any one of claims 34 to 41, characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is selected from ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl triazone and mixtures thereof.
43. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes 34 à 42 caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre UVB liposoluble est présent dans une teneur allant de 0,5 à 20 , en particulier de 1 à 15 % et de préférence, de 1,2 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 43. Use according to any one of the preceding claims 34 to 42 characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVB filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20, in particular from 1 to 15% and preferably from 1.2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
44. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 34 à 43, caractérisée en ce que le filtre mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble est choisi parmi les composés du phényl benzotriazole et les composés bis-résorcinyl triazines, de manière préférée parmi le drometrizole trisiloxane, et leurs mélanges. 44. Use according to any one of claims 34 to 43, characterized in that the liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed filter is chosen from phenyl benzotriazole compounds and bis-resorcinyl triazines compounds, preferably from drometrizole trisiloxane, and their mixtures.
45. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 34 à 44, caractérisée en ce que ledit au moins un filtre mixte UVA-UVB liposoluble est présent dans une teneur allant de 0,5 à 20 , en particulier de de 1 à 15 , et de préférence de 1 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 45. Use according to any one of claims 34 to 44, characterized in that said at least one liposoluble UVA-UVB mixed filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20, in particular from 1 to 15, and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
46. Procédé cosmétique non-thérapeutique pour limiter l'assombrissement de la peau et/ou améliorer la couleur et/ou l'homogénéité du teint comprenant l'application sur la
surface de la matière kératinique d'au moins une composition telle que définie à l'une des revendications 1 à 20.
46. A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or the homogeneity of the complexion including the application on the skin. surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 20.
Priority Applications (2)
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EP16719047.9A EP3283047A1 (en) | 2015-04-15 | 2016-04-15 | Composition made from trans-resveratrol or from a trans-resveratrol derivative |
CN201680035158.XA CN107787225A (en) | 2015-04-15 | 2016-04-15 | Composition based on trans-resveratrol or by trans-resveratrol derivative |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR1553346A FR3034987B1 (en) | 2015-04-15 | 2015-04-15 | COMPOSITION BASED ON TRANS-RESVERATROL OR A TRANS-RESVERATROL DERIVATIVE |
FR1553346 | 2015-04-15 |
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WO2019191018A1 (en) * | 2018-03-29 | 2019-10-03 | L'oreal | Methods for boosting uva photo-protection using antioxidants |
FR3104422A1 (en) * | 2019-12-17 | 2021-06-18 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising water-soluble or water-dispersible UV filters, hydrophilic thickeners and hydrophilic surfactants |
US11266590B2 (en) | 2018-08-23 | 2022-03-08 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Skin care composition |
US20220071881A1 (en) * | 2018-12-26 | 2022-03-10 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising hydrosoluble uv filters |
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FR3091176B1 (en) * | 2018-12-26 | 2021-04-16 | Oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising water-soluble UV filters |
FR3121043B1 (en) * | 2021-03-29 | 2024-03-08 | Oreal | ANTIOXIDANT COMPOSITION STABILIZED BY AN ORGANIC UVA FILTER |
WO2022149055A1 (en) * | 2021-01-05 | 2022-07-14 | L'oreal | Organic uva filter-stabilized antioxidant composition |
US11547645B2 (en) | 2021-01-05 | 2023-01-10 | L'oreal | Organic UVA filter-stabilized antioxidant composition |
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WO2019191018A1 (en) * | 2018-03-29 | 2019-10-03 | L'oreal | Methods for boosting uva photo-protection using antioxidants |
US10729633B2 (en) | 2018-03-29 | 2020-08-04 | L'oreal | Methods for boosting UVA photo-protection using antioxidants |
US11266590B2 (en) | 2018-08-23 | 2022-03-08 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Skin care composition |
US20220071881A1 (en) * | 2018-12-26 | 2022-03-10 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising hydrosoluble uv filters |
FR3104422A1 (en) * | 2019-12-17 | 2021-06-18 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising water-soluble or water-dispersible UV filters, hydrophilic thickeners and hydrophilic surfactants |
WO2021122041A1 (en) * | 2019-12-17 | 2021-06-24 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising water-soluble or water-dispersible uv-screening agents, hydrophilic thickeners and hydrophilic surfactants |
US20230028965A1 (en) * | 2019-12-17 | 2023-01-26 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising water-soluble or water-dispersible uv-screening agents, hydrophilic thickeners and hydrophilic surfactants |
WO2022110175A1 (en) * | 2020-11-30 | 2022-06-02 | L'oreal | Compositions for skin care |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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FR3034987B1 (en) | 2018-08-24 |
EP3283047A1 (en) | 2018-02-21 |
FR3034987A1 (en) | 2016-10-21 |
CN107787225A (en) | 2018-03-09 |
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