WO2016083043A1

WO2016083043A1 - Cosmetic bar soaps containing soap and microemulsions

Info

Publication number: WO2016083043A1
Application number: PCT/EP2015/074719
Authority: WO
Inventors: Heike Schelges; Elvira Scholz
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2014-11-27
Filing date: 2015-10-26
Publication date: 2016-06-02
Also published as: DE112015005335A5; DE102014224216A1

Abstract

The object of the invention is the field of cosmetics, and the invention relates to cosmetic non-therapeutic compositions containing fatty acid soaps and suitable microemulsions. The aim of the invention is to provide bar soaps, in particular transparent bar soaps, which comprise conditioning, oil-restorative, and care additives and which can be produced using conventional methods for producing bar soaps. The invention thus relates to cosmetic, non-therapeutic bar soaps which contain a) 3 to 90 wt.%, more preferably 15 to 90 wt.%, particularly preferably 20 to 90 wt.%, in particular 25 to 90 wt.%, yet more preferably 30 to 85 wt.%, and most preferably 30 to 80 wt.%, of fatty acid soaps and b) 0.01 to 50 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 30 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 20 wt.%, in particular 1 to 15 wt.%, of a microemulsion.

Description

"Cosmetic bar soaps containing soap and microemulsions"

The invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to cosmetic, non-therapeutic compositions containing fatty acid soaps and suitable microemulsions.

Cosmetic cleansers usually contain surfactants and / or surfactant combinations which, because of their irritant effect, can exert a negative influence on the skin flora and are therefore not recommended for use on unclean skin and / or acne-infested skin.

In the case of soaps, the alkaline pH can also exert a negative influence on the skin, which can worsen skin texture especially in skin irregularities. In particular, alkaline soaps lead to a strong degreasing of the skin.

For cosmetic use on particularly sensitive areas of skin - such as facial skin - or for cosmetic use on diseased skin, however, milder compositions are desirable, not only selectively at the site of application (the skin) growth and / or survivability of saprophyte germs of the skin flora over the Promote growth and / or survival of pathogenic bacteria of the skin flora, but in particular to ensure a gentle skin cleansing and excellent care of the skin. For this purpose, particularly well on the skin adhering additives with moisturizing properties such as fatty acid esters, especially triglycerides or waxes suitable. A disadvantage of the use of these nourishing additives is that these substances generally can not be incorporated clearly into transparent soaps.

It is known to add bar soaps to improve conditioning conditioning agents such as silicones, oils or waxes.

However, silicones-containing bar soaps often have the disadvantage that, with regular use over a longer period of time, they lead to a sensation of being perceived as unpleasant by the consumer.

The effectiveness of oils and waxes in bar soaps is not as pronounced as that of silicones. In addition, oils and waxes can be stabilized in smaller quantities in bar soaps, which makes it difficult to produce such agents. Furthermore, bar soaps with higher amounts of oils and waxes are difficult to produce as transparent bar soaps. Thus, to stabilize oil and wax components (or of silicones) in cosmetic bar soaps, either energy-intensive process steps must be carried out, or additional synthetic stabilizers must be incorporated into the bar so that the preparation of the agents is disadvantageous from an economic and ecological point of view. In order to obtain transparent bar soaps with oil and wax components (or of silicones), high amounts of polyols, such as, for example, glycerol, sorbitol or polyethylene glycols, are necessary. However, due to the high levels of polyols, the bar soaps lose their strength, abrasion and shrinkage properties. The bar soaps are softer, stickier, consume much faster and dull more.

There is therefore still a need for bar soaps, especially transparent bar soaps that are accessible via a simple manufacturing process, and yet contain conditioning, refatting and nourishing additives.

It is an object of the present invention to provide bar soaps, in particular transparent bar soaps with conditioning, refatting and nourishing additives, which can be prepared by conventional methods for producing bar soaps.

The bar soaps should contain higher amounts of at least one nourishing, moisturizing and conditioning lipid component, without the stabilization of the lipid component in the bar soaps necessitating additional and energetically elaborate steps such as heating, melting or predispersing. Likewise, the incorporation of polymeric or crystalline agents for stabilizing the lipid component should be dispensed with. Finally, the bar soaps should preferably be transparent, wherein high amounts of polyols can be dispensed with.

Another object of the present invention was therefore to find substances or substance mixtures which have moisturizing, conditioning and nourishing properties on the skin, show good adhesion to the skin surface and with which transparent soap bars can be produced.

Surfactant liquid detergents have recently used microemulsions of the lipids as nourishing, replenishing and conditioning lipid components. In contrast to bar soaps, liquid, surfactant cleaners have a significantly lower pH range. Such agents usually have a pH of 4 to 6. Another significant difference between bar soaps and surfactant liquid cleaners is the content of the aqueous phase. Liquid surface-active agents here have a content of usually 75 to 95 wt.% Of water.

According to the invention, the term "skin" preferably the skin itself, especially the human skin, but also the mucous membrane and skin appendages, if they Living cells include, in particular, hair follicles, hair roots, hair bulbs, the ventral epithelium of the nail bed (lectulus) as well as sebaceous glands and sweat glands.

The site of application is the skin of each area of the body, in particular the facial skin, the scalp, the skin on the neck, décolletage, back, arms, axillary area and / or genital area.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the application site is the facial skin and / or the skin on the neck, décolletage, back and / or on the arms.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the combination of fatty acid soaps and microemulsions form an excellent moisturizing, conditioning and nourishing care-cleaning complex that can be used in solid and especially transparent soap bars. Particularly preferably, the microemulsion is added as premix to the fatty acid soaps. In this case, using a microemulsion as a premix, the microemulsion may contain other ingredients.

A first object of the present invention are therefore cosmetic, non-therapeutic bar soaps that

a) 3 to 90 wt.%, More preferably 15 to 90 wt.%, Particularly preferably 20 to 90 wt.

%, and more preferably 25 to 90% by weight, most preferably 30 to 85% by weight and most preferably 30 to 80% by weight of fatty acid soaps and

b) 0.01 to 50 wt .-%, more preferably from 0, 1 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 20 wt .-% and in particular from 1 to 15 wt .-% of a microemulsion ,

The term "fatty acid soaps" usually refers to the sodium, potassium or ammonium salts of fatty acids. "Fatty acids" are understood as meaning linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated carboxylic acids having 6 to 30 C atoms, e.g. Caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachinic and behenic acid, erucic acid, isostearic acid, isotridecanoic acid, but also elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, Oleic, linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic acid. Preference is given to using technical mixtures as obtainable from vegetable and animal fats and oils, e.g. from tallow fatty acids, coconut fatty acids, olive oil fatty acids, palm oil fatty acids, lard fatty acids and / or palm kernel oil fatty acids.

Particularly preferred for use according to the invention are the sodium salts of the following fatty acids: tallow fatty acid (INCI name: Sodium Tallowate), coconut fatty acid (INCI name: Sodium Cocoate), the olive oil fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium Olivate), palm oil Fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium Palmate), lard fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium Lardate) and / or palm kernel oil fatty acids (INCI name: Sodium Palm Kernelate). It may be particularly advantageous if the cosmetic compositions within this embodiment contain mixtures of the abovementioned fatty acid soaps.

The total amount of fatty acid soaps in the cosmetic bar soaps is preferably 3 to 90% by weight, more preferably 15 to 90% by weight, particularly preferably 20 to 90% by weight, and particularly preferably 25 to 90% by weight, most preferably 30 to 85 % By weight and most preferably from 30 to 80% by weight, the quantities given being based on the total weight of the cosmetic bar soaps.

For the cosmetic bar soaps, it has proved to be advantageous from an application point of view if they have a certain content of free, unsaponified fatty acids in addition to the fatty acid soap (s). Due to the content of free fatty acids, it was above all the foaming and foaming properties that could be improved. In particular, a creamy, fine bubble foam was obtained, which leaves a pleasant skin feel on the skin.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic bar soaps therefore further contain free fatty acids, wherein the proportion by weight of the free fatty acids in the total weight of the cosmetic bar soaps preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0 , 25 to 6 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% is.

The bar soap can be present as a solid or pasty soap or as a combar (mixture of syndet and soap).

The bar soaps according to the invention preferably have a water content of

at most 30% by weight, more preferably at most 28% by weight, more preferably at most 26% by weight, especially at most 25% by weight, most preferably at most 23% by weight and most preferably at most 20% by weight and

a pH of from 6.5 to 12.0, more preferably from 7.0 to 12.0, more preferably from 8.0 to 12.0, particularly preferably from 9.0 to 12.0, most preferably from 10.0 to 1 1, 0 and most preferably from 10.0 to 1 1, 0 on.

Microemulsions which are suitable for use in the process according to the invention preferably have an average volume particle size of less than 3 μm, more preferably less than 2 μm and in particular less than 1 μm.

A particularly suitable microemulsion contains - based on the total weight of the microemulsion - preferred (I) 1 to 40 wt .-%, more preferably 5 to 30 wt .-% and in particular 10 to 20 wt .-% of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] x, in the R for is an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 C atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 C atoms and x is a number from 1 to 10,

(ii) 0 to 15% by weight, more preferably 2 to 12.5% by weight and especially 4 to 10

% By weight of at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched monoester and / or diester of glycerol with a C 10 -C 24 fatty acid,

(iii) 0 to 45% by weight, more preferably 7.5 to 40% by weight and especially 10 to 30

Wt .-% of at least one oil,

(iv) 0 to 45% by weight, more preferably 2 to 30% by weight and especially 3 to 20% by weight

glycerin,

(v) 0 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1 to 15% by weight, and especially 2 to 10% by weight.

Trig lycerintri isostea rat,

(vi) 0 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1 to 15% by weight and especially 2 to 10% by weight

Polyglycerol - poly-12-hydroxystearic acid ester,

(vii) 0 to 50% by weight, more preferably 5 to 50% by weight, particularly preferably 10 to 50% by weight, especially preferably 20 to 50% by weight and most preferably 30 to 50% by weight of alkali metal silicate, and

(viii) 20 to 80% by weight of water.

A second subject of the invention are therefore cosmetic non-therapeutic bar soaps containing

b) 0.01 to 50 wt .-%, more preferably from 0, 1 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 20 wt .-% and in particular from 1 to 15 wt .-% of a microemulsion the characterized in that it contains, based on the total weight of the microemulsion:

(i) 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably 5 to 30% by weight and especially 10 to 20

% By weight of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] x, in which R is an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms Atoms and x stands for numbers from 1 to 10,

Wt .-% of at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched monoesters and / or diesters of glycerol with a C 10 -C 24 fatty acid,

Wt .-% of at least one oil,

glycerin,

Trig lycerintri isostea rat,

Polyglycerol - poly-12-hydroxystearic acid ester,

(viii) 20 to 80% by weight of water.

In a third embodiment, microemulsions according to the invention which contain, based on the total weight of the microemulsion, are preferred:

(I) 1 to 40 wt .-%, more preferably 5 to 30 wt .-% and in particular 10 to 20% by weight of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] x, in the R for is an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 C atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 C atoms and x is a number from 1 to 10,

(iii) 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably 7.5 to 40% by weight and in particular 10 to 30% by weight of at least one oil,

glycerin,

Trig lycerintri isostea rat,

Polyglycerol - poly-12-hydroxystearic acid ester, and (vii) 20 to 80% by weight of water

A third object of the invention are therefore cosmetic, non-therapeutic bar soaps containing

b) 0.01 to 50 wt .-%, more preferably from 0, 1 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 20 wt .-% and in particular from 1 to 15 wt .-% of a microemulsion the characterized in that it contains, based on the total weight of the microemulsion: (i) 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably 5 to 30% by weight and in particular 10 to 20% by weight.

% of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] x, in which R is an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 C atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 C atoms and x stands for numbers from 1 to 10,

(iii) 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably 7.5 to 40% by weight, and especially 10 to 30

Wt .-% of at least one oil,

glycerin,

Trig lycerintri isostea rat,

Polyglycerol - poly-12-hydroxystearic acid ester, and

(vii) 20 to 80% by weight of water.

In a fourth embodiment, microemulsions according to the invention which contain, based on the total weight of the microemulsion, are preferred:

% By weight of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] x, in which R is an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms Atoms and x stands for numbers from 1 to 10, From 2 to 12.5% by weight and in particular from 4 to 10% by weight of at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched monoester and / or diester of glycerol with a C 10 -C 24 fatty acid,

5 to 45% by weight, more preferably 7.5 to 40% by weight and especially 10 to 30% by weight of at least one oil, and

20 to 80% by weight of water.

A fourth object of the invention are therefore cosmetic, non-therapeutic bar soaps containing

(ii) from 2 to 12.5% by weight and in particular from 4 to 10% by weight of at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched monoester and / or diester of glycerol with a C 10 -C 24 fatty acid,

Wt .-% of at least one oil, and

(iv) 20 to 80% by weight of water.

In a fifth embodiment, microemulsions according to the invention which contain, based on the total weight of the microemulsion, are preferred:

(ii) 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably 7.5 to 40% by weight, and especially 10 to 30

Wt .-% of at least one oil, (iii) 2 to 30% by weight and in particular 3 to 20% by weight of glycerol,

(iv) 1 to 15% by weight and in particular 2 to 10% by weight of triglycerol triisostearate,

(v) 1 to 15% by weight and in particular 2 to 10% by weight of polyglycerol - poly-12-

Hydroxystearic acid esters, and

(vi) 20 to 80% by weight of water.

A fifth object of the invention are therefore cosmetic, non-therapeutic bar soaps containing

Wt .-% of at least one oil,

(iii) 2 to 30% by weight and in particular 3 to 20% by weight of glycerol,

Hydroxystearic acid esters, and

(vi) 20 to 80% by weight of water.

In a sixth embodiment, microemulsions according to the invention which contain, based on the total weight of the microemulsion, are preferred:

(ii) from 2 to 30% by weight and in particular from 3 to 20% by weight of glycerol, (Iii) 20 to 50 wt.%, In particular 30 to 50 wt.% Of alkali metal silicate, and

(iv) 20 to 80% by weight of water.

A sixth aspect of the invention are therefore cosmetic non-therapeutic bar soaps containing

(ii) from 2 to 30% by weight and in particular from 3 to 20% by weight of glycerol,

(Iii) 20 to 50 wt.%, In particular 30 to 50 wt.% Of alkali metal silicate, and

(iv) 20 to 80% by weight of water.

Particularly suitable alkyl (oligo) glycosides (i) are derived from aldoses and / or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.

The radical R is particularly preferably an alkyl radical having 6 to 20 and in particular having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

The index number x in the general formula RO- [G] x stands for the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie. for the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides. The index number x preferably has a value in the range of 1 to 6, particularly preferably in the range of 1 to 3, which may be an integer but not a whole number, which can be determined analytically.

Particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides have a degree of oligomerization between 1, 2 and 1.5.

Particularly suitable alkyl (oligo) glycosides are known and commercially available from various suppliers under the INCI names Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside. The alkyl (oligo) glycosides are used in the microemulsions according to the invention in amounts of 1 to 40 wt .-%, more preferably 5 to 30 wt .-% and in particular 10 to 20 wt .-% based on the total weight of the microemulsion.

Further particularly suitable emulsifiers which are outstandingly suitable together with the alkyl (oligo) glycosides for the preparation of the microemulsions according to the invention are polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearic acid esters, polyglycerol polyhydroxystearate. This W / O emulsifier is commercially available from BASF under the trade name Dehymuls® PGPH. The amount used is usually from 0 to 20 wt.%, More preferably from 0 to 15 wt.%, Preferably 1 to 15 wt.% And in particular 2 to 10 wt.% Based on the total weight of the microemulsion.

Finally, another W / O emulsifier in the microemulsions according to the invention is particularly useful in combination with the alkyl (oligo) glycosides and polyglycerol polyhydroxystearate. This W / O emulsifier is triglycerol triisostearate, which is marketed by BASF under the trade name Lameform® TGI. The amount used is usually from 0 to 20 wt.%, More preferably from 0 to 15 wt.%, Preferably 1 to 15 wt.% And in particular 2 to 10 wt.% Based on the total weight of the microemulsion.

Particularly suitable esters are monoesters of glycerol with linear fatty acids having alkyl chain lengths of 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples of particularly suitable esters (ii) are glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monostearate and / or glyceryl monooleate. Particularly suitable is glyceryl monooleate.

The amount used is usually 0 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably 2 to 12.5 wt .-% and in particular 4 to 10 wt .-% based on the total weight of the microemulsion.

Suitable oils may be selected from mineral, natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances. The oils are used according to the invention in amounts of 0 to 45 wt .-%, more preferably 7.5 to 40 wt .-% and in particular 10 to 30 wt .-% based on the total weight of the microemulsion.

As natural (vegetable) oils triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides can be used. Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, Apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel, meadowfoam herb oil, safflower oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil , Safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.

As mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons. An example of a usable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S).

Suitable synthetic oils are silicone compounds.

Silicones have excellent conditioning properties on the hair. In particular, they cause better combability of the hair in the wet and dry state and in many cases have a positive effect on the hair and the softness of the hair.

Suitable silicones may be selected from:

(i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;

(ii) Polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from:

a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups;

b) (per) fluorinated groups;

c) thiol groups;

d) carboxylate groups;

e) hydroxylated groups;

f) alkoxylated groups;

g) acyloxyalkyl groups;

h) amphoteric groups;

i) bisulfite groups;

j) hydroxyacylamino groups;

k) carboxy groups;

I) sulfonic acid groups; and

m) sulphate or thiosulphate groups;

(iii) linear polysiloxane (A) - polyoxyalkylene (B) - block copolymers of the type (AB) _n with n>3; (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;

(v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least at one of its ends ;

(vi) or mixtures thereof.

Silicates according to the invention are further suitable silicates. Particularly suitable silicates are the alkali metal silicates, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, lithium silicate and ammonium silicate. These silicates are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0 to 50 wt.%, More preferably 5 to 50 wt.%, Particularly preferably 10 to 50 wt.%, Particularly preferably 20 to 50 wt.% And most preferably 30 to 50 wt. % used.

As the oil component may further serve a dialkyl ether. Useful dialkyl ethers are in particular di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl n-octyl ether.

Particularly preferred is the di-n-octyl ether (dicaprylyl ether), which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ^® OE.

Fatty substances are to be understood fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes, which may be present both in solid form and liquid in aqueous dispersion.

The fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, Palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, elaeostearic, arachidic, gadoleic, behenic and erucic acids and their technical mixtures.

Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C6-C30, preferably C10-C22 and very particularly preferably C12-C22, carbon atoms. For example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucalcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and not limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^®, ^® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, lsofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention.

As natural or synthetic waxes may be used solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

Other fatty substances are, for example

Esteröle. Ester oils are the esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids are preferably alcohols having 2 to 24 C Atoms. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.

Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their

technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprinatV caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B ), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V), coco-caprylate (Cetiol® C5).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2) ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,

symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ^®, ^® Monomuls 90-L12, Cetiol ^® HE or Cutina ^® MD.

Dicaprylyl ether and cococaprylate are preferably used as the oil in the microemulsions according to the invention.

Another important ingredient of microemulsions is water. The microemulsion contains - based on its total weight - preferably 20 to 80 wt .-%, more preferably 35 to 70 wt .-% and in particular 35 to 65 wt .-% water.

The microemulsion is preferably prepared by mixing the liquid oil phases and the surfactant-containing aqueous phases with stirring at a temperature of 25 ° C to 40 ° C. Alternatively, the microemulsion can be used in the bar soaps according to the invention as a prefabricated commercial product. Examples of suitable commercially available micro-emulsions are known under the name "Plantasil Micro ^®" by the company BASF or under the name "Plantasil Relax Care DB" by BASF or under the name "Lamepon® OD" from BASF microemulsions.

The microemulsion is preferably used in the bar soaps according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight and in particular from 1 to 15 wt .-% used, wherein the amounts relate to the total weight of the bar soap.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the bar soaps are transparent. By "transparent" is meant that the bar soap has an NTU value (nephelometric turbidity unit) of not more than 100, preferably of not more than 50 and in particular not more than 30.

To assist the deposition of the lipid component (s) on the skin, it may be advantageous if cationic polymers are present in the compositions according to the invention.

Suitable cationic polymers may be included in the microemulsion, or they may be added to the cosmetic carrier before or after incorporation of the microemulsion.

Suitable cationic polymers are preferably used in the bar soaps according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight, the stated Refer to the total weight of bar soaps.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example: quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as under the trade names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^®

are commercially available,

hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example those sold under the trade name SOFTCAT ^® cationic polymers,

cationic alkyl polyglycosides,

cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

cationic guar derivatives, in particular those sold under the tradename Cosmedia Guar ^® and Jaguar ^® products,

polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers, Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and

methacrylate, such as vinylpyrrolidone quaternized with diethyl sulfate.

Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers as described by the names

Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM offered 552,

quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

and the polymers known by the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-74 and Polyquaternium-89.

Particularly preferred cationic polymers which can be used in the process according to the invention are quaternized cellulose polymers, cationic guar derivatives and / or cationic polymers based on acrylic acid (derivative), which are selected, in particular, from the polymers Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium known under the INCI names -6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-37 and / or Polyquaternium-67.

Particularly preferred for use in the cosmetic bar soaps to be used according to the invention are the cationic polymers known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-7.

The cationic polymer (s) may preferably be present in the cosmetic bar soaps to be used according to the invention in a proportion by weight (based on the total weight of the bar soaps) of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 4% by weight from 0.05 to 3 wt .-% and in particular from 0.1 to 2 wt .-% are used.

In all embodiments, the combination with at least one amphoteric surfactant and / or zwitterionic surfactant has proved to be particularly advantageous.

In all embodiments, the combination of at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant with at least one cationic polymer has proven particularly advantageous.

Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants for use according to the invention are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine and Coco Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.

Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate, the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine, and C12-C18-acylsarcosine.

The total amount of amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants in the cosmetic bar soaps is preferably 0, 1 to 6.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 4.5% by weight. and in particular 1, 0 to 4.0 wt.%, Whose quantities are based on the total weight of the cosmetic bar soaps.

Suitable anionic surfactants in the bar soaps according to the invention are preferably the following surface-active substances:

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula R-0- (CH2-CH20) x-CH2-COOH, where R is a linear

Alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, and their salts,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -SO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Hydroxysulfonates essentially corresponding to at least one of the following two formulas or mixtures thereof and salts thereof,

CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) y --CHOH - (CH ₂ ) p - (CH - SO 3 M) - (CH ₂ ) z - CH ₂ --O - (CnH 2nO) x H, and / or CH ₃ - (CH 2) y - (CH - SO ₃ M ) - (CH ₂ ) _P -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) z -CH ₂ -O- (CnH ₂ nO) x H where in both formulas y and z = 0 or integers from 1 to 18, p = 0, 1 or 2 and the sum (y + z + p) a number from 12 to 18, x = 0 or a number from 1 to 30 and n a whole Number from 2 to 4 and M = H or alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc and / or an ammonium ion, which may optionally be substituted, in particular mono-, di-, tri- or or tetraammonium ions having C1 to C4 alkyl, alkenyl or aryl radicals,

sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers of the formula R - (CHOSO ₃ M) -CHR ³ - (OCHR ⁴ -CH ₂ ) n-OR ² where R 1 is a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{2 is} a linear one or branched, saturated alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{3 is} hydrogen or a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{4 is} hydrogen or a methyl radical and M is hydrogen, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, wherein the alkyl and alkanol radicals each have 1 to 4 C atoms, or a metal atom selected from lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium and n is a number in the range from 0 to 12 and furthermore the total number of C contained in R and R ³ Atoms 2 to 44, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols with 8 bis 22 represent C atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula

R (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) n-O- (PO-OX) -OR ² ,

in the R preferred for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ² CH ² O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical, is a sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula RCO (AlkO) _n SO 3 M

in the RCO-- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2, CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3, n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M for a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ^{6 are} independently hydrogen or a C1 to C4 - hydrocarbon radical,

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula

R ⁸ OC- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) x -OCH 2 - [CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H] -CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) z -SO 3 X,

in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride ether sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably Monoglyceride used in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- Amidethercarbonsäuren, R-CO-NR ² -CH ² CH ² -O- (CH ² CH ² O) ₂ COOM, with R as a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20 and R ² is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl and M is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, especially sodium , Potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as + NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ are each independently hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ⁴ hydrocarbon radical. Such products are obtainable, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ^®.

Acylglutamates of the formula XOOC-CH 2 CH 2 CH (C (NH) OR) -COOX in which RCO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium,

Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate with a C8-C30 fatty acid. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® long been commercially.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates, acyl lactylates and

Hydroxymischethersulfate,

as well as their mixtures.

Preferred are mild anionic surfactants containing polyglycol ether chains.

If the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Furthermore, in the case of mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether units, it is preferred that the number of glycol ether groups is 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, more preferably 2 to 12. Particularly mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether groups without limited homolog distribution can be obtained, for example on the one hand the number of polyglycol ether groups is 4 to 12 and Zn or Mg ions are selected as the counterion. One example is the commercial product Texapon.RTM ^® ASV.

Particularly preferred are:

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula R-0- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x-CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16 and their salts, Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,

- alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula, R (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) n -O- (PO-OX) -OR ² , in which R is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ² CH ² O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ are each independently hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 - hydrocarbon radical, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula R ⁸ OC- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) x -OCH 2 - [CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H] -CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) z -SO 3 X,

in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride ether sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

Condensation products of a water soluble salt of a water soluble protein hydrolyzate with a C8 - C30 fatty acid,

as well as their mixtures.

Very particular preference is given to alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x-SO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, and acylglutamates of the formula XOOC -CH 2 CH 2 CH (C (NH) OR) -COOX in which RCO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, Ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium,

as well as their mixtures.

Highly preferred are alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x-SO 3 H, in which R is preferably a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms, particularly preferably with 8 to 24 C atoms and in particular with 10 to 18 C atoms, and x stands for 0 or 1 to 12, preferably for 1 to 6 and in particular for 2 to 4, and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of anionic surfactants in the cosmetic bar soaps is preferably 0, 1 to 8.0 wt.%, More preferably from 0.5 to 8.0 wt.%, Particularly preferably 1, 0 to 8.0 wt.% And in particular 1, 5 to 8 wt.%, Whose quantities are based on the total weight of the cosmetic bar soaps.

A particularly preferred active ingredient that may be included in the cosmetic bar soap of the subject invention is talc. It has been found that talc in combination with and at least one fatty acid soap improves skin suppleness and skin hydration.

Under talc in the context of the invention, a hydrated magnesium silicate of the theoretical composition 3MgO · 4SiÜ2 · H2O or Mg3 (Si40io) · (OH) 2 understood, however, the proportions of hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate of up to 12 wt .-% AI2O3, based on the entire product, may contain.

The particle diameter (equivalent spherical diameter) of the talc should preferably be in the range from 0.5 to 50 μm. In general, such talcum qualities have proven useful which contain not more than 5% by weight of particles of less than 1 μm and not more than 5% by weight of particles of more than 50 μm in size. Preferably, the proportion of particles is larger

than 40 μιη in diameter (sieve residue), at most 2 wt .-%. The average particle diameter (D 50) is preferably 5 to 15 μm.

The content of impurities should preferably not more than 1, 6 wt .-% Fe2Ü3, 1 wt .-% CaO and 1 wt .-% of unbound water (dry loss at 105 ° C) make up. The hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate content may be up to 60% by weight, calculated as Al 2 O 3, up to 12% by weight.

In one embodiment, the compositions of the subject invention further talc, wherein the weight fraction of the talc in the total weight of the cosmetic bar soaps preferably 1 to 40 wt .-%, more preferably 2 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 3 to 25 wt .-% and especially 5 to 20 wt .-% is.

In addition to the aforementioned active ingredients, the cosmetic bar soaps of the subject invention may contain other active ingredients that give them advantageous properties - for example, improved mildness and improved care properties.

The preferred other active ingredients that can be used in the cosmetic bar soaps include, for example nonionic surfactants and / or nonionic emulsifiers, preferably in a weight fraction of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.05 to 4 wt .-% and in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based On the total weight of cosmetic bar soaps, can be used as well

the skin moisture-influencing active ingredients, preferably in a weight fraction of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.005 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0, 02 to 4 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic bar soaps, can be used.

Examples of suitable nonionic surfactants / emulsifiers include

Amine oxides,

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides,

Addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty amines and / or

Alkylpolyglucosides.

Particularly suitable nonionic surfactants / emulsifiers are alkyl oligoglucosides, in particular alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C 12/14 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1-3, as are commercially available, for example, under the INCI name "Coco-Glucoside".

Further preferred nonionic surfactants / emulsifiers are adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil, such as the known under the INCI names emulsifiers PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and / or PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil.

Suitable active ingredients which have a positive influence on the skin moisture are preferably understood as meaning at least one active ingredient selected from the following group:

i. glycerin,

ii. vitamins

iii. cationic polymers and / or

iv. Plant extracts, milk and / or juice.

Glycerol may preferably be used in the cosmetic bar soap of the subject invention in a weight fraction of 0, 1 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.2 to 8, particularly preferably 0.5 to 6 and in particular 1 to 5 wt .-%, wherein the quantities refer to the total weight of the cosmetic bar soaps. Suitable vitamins are preferably the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives:

Vitamin A: the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. Vitamin B: belong to the vitamin B group or to the vitamin B complex u. a.

• Vitamin B1 (thiamine)

• Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)

• Vitamin B3. Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.

• Vitamin Bs (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group the panthenol is preferred. Useful derivatives of panthenol are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.

• Vitamin Ββ (pyridoxine plus pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol).

Vitamin F: the term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H: Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.

The cosmetic bar soaps may preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.

Particularly preferred are vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from group B; Particular preference is given to nicotinic acid amide and / or panthenol.

Vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors may in the bar soaps according to the invention (based on the total weight of bar soaps) preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 1 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-% are used. Suitable cationic polymers and their amounts used have been disclosed earlier in the specification.

Suitable plant extracts, milks and / or juices which may be present in the cosmetic bar soaps according to the invention are preferably selected from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, Aloe Vera, Spruce Needle, Horse Chestnut, Sandalwood, Juniper, Coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Quender, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Pickle, Coltsfoot , Vanilla, marshmallow, meristem. Ginseng and ginger root included.

Especially preferred are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera. Coconut. Mango. Apricot. Lime, wheat, vanilla. Kiwi and melon, and particularly preferred are the extracts of aloe vera, coconut, vanilla and melon.

Usually, the extracts are prepared by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

As an extractant for the preparation of said plant extracts may be water. Alcohols and mixtures thereof are used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

As plant milk or juice are preferably aloe milk, aloe vera leaf juice and coconut milk in question. The plant powders / -säfte can in the cosmetic compositions of the second subject of the invention preferably in a weight fraction of 0.01 to 5% by weight. preferably 0.02 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 3 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the composition - are used.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic bar soaps furthermore contain at least one active ingredient which influences the skin moisture in a weight fraction of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 7.5, more preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight. and in particular 0.2 to 4% by weight, wherein the quantities are based on the total weight of the bar soaps, and wherein the active ingredient is selected from I. glycerol,

II vitamins,

III. cationic polymers and / or

IV. Plant Extracts, Milk and / or Juices.

Within this embodiment, it is particularly preferred if the active ingredient is selected from glycerol, panthenol, niacinamide, a cationic polymer known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-10, a cationic polymer known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-7 and / or the extracts , Milk and / or juices of aloe vera (Aloe Barbadensis) and / or coconut.

Particular preference is given to niacinamide, polyquaternium-7, aloe milk and / or coconut milk. Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

Cosmetic ingredients for soaps as disclosed, for example, in "Soaps and Detergents", Luis Spitz, ISBN 0-935315-72-1 and "Production of Toilet Soap", D. Osterath, ISBN 3-921956-55-2, thickeners such as agar Agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,

Dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

Active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, tetrasodium etidronate, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid,

Iminodisuccinic acid and its salts and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers,

Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,

pigments

antioxidants

Menthol and menthol derivatives,

inorganic salts such as the alkali metal sulphates and / or chlorides,

organic salts such as Alkamimetalllactate,

Dyes and

Perfumes.

The preparation of the cosmetic compositions in solid piece form can be carried out in the manner customary for such products, wherein in particular by the combination of active substances according to the invention a readily moldable, sufficiently plastic in the heat, but not produces rubber-elastic and after cooling hard mass and wherein the molded products have a smooth surface. Conventional processes for mixing or homogenizing, kneading, optionally pilering, extruding, optionally pelleting, extruding, cutting and piece pressing are familiar to the person skilled in the art and can be used for producing the soap pieces according to the invention. The preparation is preferably carried out in the temperature range from 40 to 90 ° C, wherein the meltable starting materials are placed in a heatable kneader or mixer and the non-melting components are stirred. For homogenization, the mixture can then be passed through a sieve before the shaping follows. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the components are used in anhydrous, granular form, as obtained after drying in a so-called flash dryer. Reference should be made to the teaching of German Patent DE-C1 19534371.

However, shaped soap products can also be present as noodles, needles, granules, extrudates, flakes and in any other form usual for soap products.

Further, with the soap bars, for example, by injecting dye solutions during extrusion, a marbled appearance can be obtained.

Likewise, the soap bars can be processed as multiphase soaps, in particular also soap bars provided with a care phase.

Most preferably, the soap bars may have some transparency. For this purpose, the inorganic constituents are chosen particularly finely divided. Then at least semitransparent and particularly preferably transparent soaps can be obtained.

Examples:

The following bars of soap were prepared (quantities are by weight unless otherwise stated):

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Sodium Tallowate 47.6 25 50 50 45 45

Sodium Olivate 80

Sodium Palmate 47.6 50 45 50

Sodium Lardate 25 50

Sodium Sulfate 4

CAPB 3

Talc 20 20 5 15 10 10 5 10 10 20

Polyquaternium-7 0.3

Microemulsion 1 5 3 2 5 2

Microemulsion 2 5 3 2 5 2

Microemulsion 3 5 2

Cornstarch 5 5

Sodium Cocoate 10 20 10 20 30 23 20 25

Sodium Palm 10 20 25 Kernelate

Glycerol 3 3 1 4 2

Sorbitol 4 4

Perfume 0.8 1 2 2 1 1.5 1 0.5 1 1 1 1

Coconut acid 0.5 3 1.5 1.5

Palmkernel FS 0.5 1

Tallow fatty acid 0.5 2.5 3 1.5 1.5

Palm oil FS 0.5 1

PEG-450 0.3 0.5

NaCl 0.2 0.3 0.5 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.5 0.5 0.5

Sodium lactate 0.1 0.5 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1

BHT 0.07 0.73 0.1 0.1 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05

Lanolin 2 2

Na ₄ Editronate 0.02 0.2 0.02 0.3 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.05 0.05 0.05

Na EDTA 0.02 0.2 0.02 0.3 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.05 0.05 0.05

Niacinamide 0.01 0.1

Aloe barbadensis 0.01 0.1 0.15 0.05 0.2

Leaf Juice Water, if necessary ad ad ad ad ad ad ad ad

Dyes 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

Unless the particular microemulsion was used as a commercial product, the microemulsions were prepared by mixing and stirring the ingredients at a temperature between 25 ° C and 40 ° C.

Microemulsion 1 is a microemulsion composed as follows:

Alternatively, the commercial product Plantasil® Micro from BASF can be used instead of these microemulsions.

Microemulsion 2 is a microemulsion composed as follows:

Alternatively, the commercial product Lamesoft® OD from BASF can be used instead of this microemulsion.

The microemulsion 3 is a microemulsion composed as follows:

1 2

Potassium Silicate 48 42

Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside 8 1 1

Glycerol 5 7

Water 39 40 Alternatively, it is also possible to use the commercial product Plantasil® Relaxcare from BASF instead of this microemulsion.

All of the abovementioned microemulsions according to the invention give very good cleaning effects in the abovementioned compositions with very good jamming and improved retention of the natural skin moisture. The skin feeling is described by test persons as significantly better. The compositions comprising the microemulsions according to the invention lead to a significantly increased absorption behavior of the oil bodies on the skin. All compositions yield transparent soap bars.

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic bar soaps, characterized in that they

2. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic bar soap according to claim 1, characterized in that the microemulsion - based on the total weight of the microemulsion - contains:

Wt .-% of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] x, in the R for an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G for a

Sugar residue with 5 or 6 C atoms and x stands for numbers from 1 to 10,

Wt .-% of at least one oil,

glycerin,

Trig lycerintri isostea rat,

Polyglycerol - poly-12-hydroxystearic acid ester,

(viii) 20 to 80% by weight of water.

3. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic bar soaps according to claim 1, characterized in that the microemulsion - based on the total weight of the microemulsion - contains:

(I) 1 to 40 wt .-%, more preferably 5 to 30 wt .-% and in particular 10 to 20% by weight of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] x, in the

R is an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 C atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 C atoms and x is a number from 1 to 10,

0 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably 2 to 12.5 wt .-% and in particular 4 to 10 wt .-% of at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched monoester and / or diester of glycerol with a C10-C24 Fatty acid,

From 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably from 7.5 to 40% by weight and in particular from 10 to 30% by weight of at least one oil,

From 0 to 45% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 30% by weight and in particular from 3 to 20% by weight of glycerol,

0 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1 to 15% by weight and in particular 2 to 10% by weight of triglycerol tri isosteaate,

0 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1 to 15% by weight and in particular 2 to 10% by weight of polyglycerol-poly-12-hydroxystearic acid ester, and

20 to 80% by weight of water

Cosmetic, non-therapeutic bar soaps according to claim 1, characterized in that the microemulsion contains, based on the total weight of the microemulsion:

Sugar residue with 5 or 6 C atoms and x stands for numbers from 1 to 10,

Wt .-% of at least one oil, and

(iv) 20 to 80% by weight of water.

Sugar residue with 5 or 6 C atoms and x stands for numbers from 1 to 10, (ii) from 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably from 7.5 to 40% by weight, and especially from 10 to 30% by weight of at least one oil,

(iii) 2 to 30% by weight and in particular 3 to 20% by weight of glycerol,

Hydroxystearic acid esters, and

(vi) 20 to 80% by weight of water.

6. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic bar soap according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the bar soap has an NTU value (nephelometric turbidity unit) of not more than 100, preferably of not more than 50 and in particular not more than 30.

7. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic bar soap according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that further - based on the total weight of the bar soap - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.02 to 4 wt .-% , particularly preferably from 0.05 to 3 wt .-% and in particular from 0, 1 to 2 wt .-% of at least one cationic polymer selected from the polymers known under the INCI names Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7 , Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-37 and / or Polyquaternium-67 is included ..

8. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic bar soap according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that - further - based on the total weight of the bar soap - 0, 1 to 6.0 wt.%, More preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt.% , Particularly preferably 0.5 to 4.5 wt.% And in particular 1, 0 to 4.0 wt.% Of amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants.

9. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic bar soap according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that further - based on the total weight of the bar soap - 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, more preferably 0.25 to 6 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of free fatty acid is contained.

10. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic bar soap according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the bar soaps have a pH of from 6.5 to 12.0, more preferably from 7.0 to 12.0, particularly preferably from 8, 0 to 12.0, more preferably 9.0 to 12.0, most preferably 10.0 to 1 1, 0 and most preferably from 10.0 to 1 1, 0 have.