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WO2015121101A1 - Microémulsions et produits de lavage cosmétiques contenant des microémulsions - Google Patents

Microémulsions et produits de lavage cosmétiques contenant des microémulsions Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015121101A1
WO2015121101A1 PCT/EP2015/052108 EP2015052108W WO2015121101A1 WO 2015121101 A1 WO2015121101 A1 WO 2015121101A1 EP 2015052108 W EP2015052108 W EP 2015052108W WO 2015121101 A1 WO2015121101 A1 WO 2015121101A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
wax
waxes
microemulsions
alkyl
cosmetic
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2015/052108
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Matthias Hloucha
Jasmin Schorb
Claudia STOER
Claus Nieendick
Original Assignee
Basf Se
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Basf Se filed Critical Basf Se
Priority to EP15702468.8A priority Critical patent/EP3104834A1/fr
Publication of WO2015121101A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015121101A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/068—Microemulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of oily microemulsions and their use in cosmetic cleansers and cosmetic cleansers containing the oily microemulsions.
  • Cosmetic cleansers are typically surfactant formulations that cleanse the skin and / or hair.
  • On the consumer side in addition to the requirement of thorough cleaning, there is a desire to keep the loss of grease and water caused by washing as low as possible.
  • the softness and smoothness of the skin and / or hair should as far as possible be obtained or ideally restored by the use of the cosmetic cleansing agent.
  • silicones In hair shampoo compositions, for example, silicones have been used as conditioners to allow the hair a pleasant feel and good combability. Recently, however, it is considered critical to put it on the hair, as it can lead to problems in dyeing and perming hair in the worst case.
  • Other hair cosmetic preparations use oils and waxes instead of silicones as conditioning agents.
  • oils and waxes require the addition of solubilizers or solubilizers in order to be processed homogeneously and stably. Products without solubilizers are biphasic and must be shaken before use, which is not always popular.
  • the incorporated oils can adversely affect the foaming of the surfactants in quality or significantly reduce the amount of foam formed when using the detergent. Since the consumer usually equates the amount of foam formed with the cleaning performance of the agent, at least a good foaming power for cosmetic products with oil shares is still desired.
  • WO 2008/155075 describes cosmetic preparations which, in addition to non-alkoxylated surfactants, contain a microemulsion comprising alkylpolyglycoside, glycerol monoester, an oil body and water. These cosmetic preparations are useful as hair shampoos with conditioning effects because they enhance the deposition of silicone oils and introduce relatively high levels of softness and moisture having oils into hair shampoos.
  • WO 2011/116881 discloses cosmetic cleansing compositions which contain microemulsions of alkyl (oligo) glycoside, co-surfactant, a non-water-soluble organic oil component and a wax and water.
  • microemulsions can be excluded alkoxylated compounds a variety of oils such as C 6 -C 0 -Fettklaretriglyce- ride, vegetable oils or hydrocarbons, in addition to the wax.
  • oils such as C 6 -C 0 -Fettklaretriglyce- ride, vegetable oils or hydrocarbons, in addition to the wax.
  • the object of the present invention was to provide cleansing cosmetic products for the skin and / or hair which, in addition to a good cleaning performance, have an outstanding care performance.
  • the agents When applied to the skin, the agents should leave a feeling of softness and richly nourished skin after application.
  • the cosmetic products When used in hair care, in addition to cleansing performance, the cosmetic products should have a good conditioning effect such as a pleasant feel and good combability without weighing down the hair.
  • the conditioning performance should be at least equal to that of silicone containing formulations, at best exceeding them.
  • the agents should have a foaming and foam quality that meets the requirements of the consumer.
  • a first subject of the present application is directed to microemulsions containing
  • microemulsion according to the invention lies in the very good storage stability, the transparent appearance, a good processability even after a long storage time in a variety of cosmetic detergents without loss of transparency and finally good flowability.
  • Microemulsions are macroscopically homogeneous, optically transparent, low-viscosity, thermodynamically stable mixtures.
  • the average particle sizes of the microemulsions are usually below 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 100 nm, determined by the DLS method with a device called Horiba LB-500. They have high transparency and are stable to visible phase separation upon centrifugation at 2000 rpm for at least 30 minutes.
  • the conductivity of the microemulsions according to the invention is preferably in the range of greater than or equal to 500 ⁇ 5 ⁇ / ⁇ and particularly preferably greater than or equal to 1000 ⁇ 5 ⁇ / ⁇ ".
  • a preferred range is 800 to 1500 ⁇ 8 ⁇ / ⁇ " ⁇ .
  • microemulsions according to the invention are preferably transparent, in particular they have a transparency of greater than or equal to 80% at 40 ° C., transparency values of greater than 90% being typical at 40 ° C. Preference is given to those microemulsions which have a transparency, measured at 40 ° C of 95 to 100%.
  • the microemulsions according to the present teaching are preferably of the oil-in-water (O / W) type or have a bicontinuous structure.
  • the microemulsions thus preferably contain water (d) as the continuous phase, and furthermore at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside (a) and a different cosurfactant (b) and at least one non-water-soluble organic oil component (c) as internal phase ,
  • the microemulsions can also be present as a water-in-oil emulsion.
  • Component (a) of the present microemulsions contains at least one alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside.
  • R 1 0- [G] p (I) in the R 1 is an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a
  • the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • the index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10.
  • the values p 1 to 6 can assume that the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is between 1.2 and 1.7 are preferred.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 1 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 22, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 1 is derived from lower primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 and / or 10 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 1 is derived from primary higher alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above.
  • Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated Ci 2 / i4 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 very particularly preferably be within the meaning of the present invention microemulsions containing as (a) mixtures of various alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides of the formula (I), in the R 1 is derived from a lower primary alcohol having 4 to 1 1, preferably 8 and / or 10, and in which R 1 is derived from a primary higher alcohol having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • R 1 is derived from primary alcohol mixtures containing from 55 to 75% by weight of 8 and 10 carbon atoms and from 25 to 45% by weight of C12 to C16 Have carbon atoms, wherein in small quantities, in particular less than 10 wt .-% - based on alcohol mixture, they can be derived from alcohols having fewer or more carbon atoms.
  • Such mixtures of the various alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be prepared by blending various alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides or by using such alcohol mixtures in the preparation of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides.
  • microemulsions in the sense of the present teaching comprise component (a) preferably in amounts of from 1 to 35% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 5 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the microemulsion.
  • Isosorbide (or 1, 4: 3,6-dianhydro-D-sorbitol, IUPAC: 1, 4: 3,6-dianhydro-D-glucitol) is obtained by acid-catalyzed cleavage of two molecules of water from D-sorbitol.
  • Isosorbide esters can be prepared by esterification of isosorbide with carboxylic acids (fatty acids) under customary conditions, for example as described in International Application WO2001 / 83488.
  • the microemulsions as co-surfactant (b) necessarily contain at least one isosorbide ester, preferably of the general formula (II)
  • R and R 'independently of one another represent hydrogen or an acyl radical COR ", and R" denotes at least one alkyl and / or alkylene radical having 5 to 21 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of R or R 'is an acyl radical COR ".
  • the acyl radicals COR are derived from fatty acids which have a total of 6 to 22 carbon atoms and which may be saturated and / or unsaturated and, in particular, mixtures of one another.”
  • Isosorbide esters which are derived from unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 18 carbon atoms are particularly suitable
  • at least one of the radicals R and R ' is an acyl radical COR ", ie it is possible to use both mono- and diesters or mixtures thereof as co-surfactant; preference is given to isosorbide monoesters.
  • isosorbide monoesters are particularly preferred, i. Compounds of the formula (II) in which one of the radicals R and R 'is an acyl radical.
  • the isosorbide monoesters mono- and diesters of isosorbide and unreacted isosorbide or fatty acid may contain, if statistically speaking, one of the radicals R and R 'is an acyl radical.
  • the random mixtures contain at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 75% by weight, monoesters and the proportions missing to 100% by weight represent diester, isosorbide and fatty acid.
  • co-surfactant b) isosorbate monooleate preferably with a monoester content of at least 50 wt .-%, in particular of at least 75 wt .-%, - based on Isosorbidester.
  • the isosorbide esters are preferably present as cosurfactant in amounts of from 5 to 25% by weight, in particular from 10 to 20% by weight, based on microemulsion.
  • microemulsions in the context of the present teaching contain as a further obligatory constituent a non-water-soluble organic oil component which is preferably present in amounts of 5 to 50 wt .-%, preferably 15 to 30 wt .-%, based on microemulsion.
  • non-water-soluble compounds are understood as meaning those compounds which have a solubility of less than or equal to 2% by weight in water at 20.degree.
  • the organic, non-water-soluble oil component according to the invention is a liquid at room temperature compounds (so-called oils), that is, the compounds have a melting point below or a boiling point above the usual room temperatures of about 15 to 25 ° C.
  • the organic, non-water-soluble compounds have a polarity between 5 and 60 mN / m.
  • the interfacial tension is determined as the interfacial tension in mN / m in analogy to the ASTM method D971-99a (2004).
  • Preferred compounds having a polarity in the range of 5 to 30 mN / m are for example selected from the group formed by Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18 carbon atoms, esters of linear C 6 -C 2 2 fatty acids with linear or branched C 6 - C 2 2 fatty alcohols or esters of branched C 6 -C 3 -carboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohols, esters of linear C 6 -C 2 2 fatty acids with branched alcohols, esters of C 6 -C 2 2-fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, triglycerides based on C 6 -C 14 fatty acids, esters of C 2 -C 2 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohol
  • esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols are the so-called ester oils such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl stearates, di-n-octyl carbonates, caprylyl caprylate, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate , Cetylstea- rat, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, steary
  • Suitable triglycerides are, in particular, glycerol esters of fatty acids having 8 and / or 10 carbon atoms, preferably di- and / or triglyceride esters, as are obtainable under US Pat Trade name Myritol® 312 from BASF Personal Care & Nutrition GmbH (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric triglyceride).
  • vegetable oils such as peanut oil, castor oil, coconut oil, corn oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, argan oil and / or avocado oil.
  • the hydrocarbons can be linear or branched. Depending on the number of carbon atoms in the hydrocarbon, the hydrocarbons can be classified into nonradical hydrocarbons (such as nonane, undecane, tridecane) or even hydrocarbons (such as octane, dodecane, tetradecane).
  • non-water-soluble organic oil component C6-C22-dialkyl ethers and / or C6-C22 dialkyl carbonates, preferably C6-C12-dialkyl ethers and / or C6-C12 dialkyl carbonates, and in particular dicapryl as Cetiol ® OE, a commercial product from BASF personal Care & Nutrition GmbH), and / or dicapryl carbonate as Cetiol ® CC, a BASF personal Care & Nutrition GmbH commercial product).
  • dicapryl ether or dicapryl carbonate is understood as meaning both the pure compounds based exclusively on C8 fatty alcohols and those compounds which are prepared from industrial mixtures of C8 fatty alcohol cuts and have minor amounts of C6 / C10 / C12 carbon atoms.
  • waxes it is possible for waxes to be present in the oil component c), the proportion thereof preferably being less than 20%, in particular less than 15% by weight, based on oil component c).
  • Waxes according to the invention are natural substances of animal or vegetable origin, which are solid at room temperature but generally have a certain deformability.
  • the waxes according to the invention are insoluble in water, but soluble in oils.
  • waxes in the present teaching are natural waxes, such as Shorea Stenoptera butter (cegesoft SH), shea butter, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, Espartograswachs, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti , Lanolin (wool wax), crepe fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), for example montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.
  • cegesoft SH Shorea Stenoptera butter
  • shea butter candelilla wax
  • carnauba wax Japan wax
  • Espartograswachs cor
  • shea butter also sheaf fat, sheaf fat or carite fat, galambutter
  • shea butter is a natural solid fatty substance which is obtained from the plant Butyrospermum parkii, the African shea butter tree, and is available in commercial quantities. Its melting range is 35 to 42 ° C.
  • shea butter contains 89 to 98 wt .-% triglycerides, glycerol and free fatty acids and a content of 2 to 1 1 wt .-% unsaponifiable fractions, of which hydrocarbons (carbitols), triterpene alcohols and sterols are the most important.
  • microemulsions contain
  • component (a) From 1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, of component (a)
  • component (b) From 5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight, of component (b)
  • component (d) add 100 wt .-% water as component (d) included.
  • microemulsions according to the invention included
  • R 1 is derived from a lower primary alcohol having 4 to 1 1 and in R 1 is derived from primary higher alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms as component (a),
  • microemulsions according to the invention may be those which are selected from the group formed by hydrotopes, preservatives, antioxidants, biogenic agents, biocides and pH regulants, for example glycerol, citric acid, benzoic acid and / or phenoxyethanol.
  • microemulsions according to the present invention preferably have a pH of between 3 and 7, with the ranges of 3.5 to 5.5 being advantageous.
  • microemulsions according to the invention are prepared by simply mixing and heating above the melting point of all components.
  • a variant is preferably according to the teaching of WO08 / 155075 A1 in a one-step process, wherein in the first step independently of one another - an aqueous solution of the alkyl and / or alkenyl glycosides and
  • a solution of isosorbide ester (b) is prepared in the oil component (c) and in the second reaction step the aqueous solution of the alkyl and / or alkenyl glycosides (a) is added to the solution of oil component and isosorbide ester.
  • the other ingredients may be dissolved depending on their solubility in the oil component or in water.
  • the addition of the aqueous solution of alkyl and / or alkenyl glycosides to a heated to 25 to 80 ° C, preferably heated to 25 to 50 ° C solution of oil component and Isosorbidester, optionally with moderate stirring.
  • thermodynamically stable microemulsion then forms spontaneously, if necessary, a little more stirring is required.
  • Another object of the present invention relates to the use of microemulsions to improve the conditioning properties of cosmetic cleaners, preferably an improvement in the conditioning properties of shower gels, shower baths, hair shampoos, hair lotions, bubble baths, hand cleansers, facial cleansers, make-up removers, bath preparations , and / or baby care products.
  • the improvement of the conditioning properties according to the invention is achieved, for example, by the improved wet combability of the hair after use of the cleaning agent. recognizable, which is due to a smoother, less roughened surface structure of the hair.
  • the microemulsions according to the invention can improve the sensory properties of the skin. In the present case, this refers in particular to the feel of the skin, which is triggered by direct contact of the human skin with a substance or a mixture of substances. In practice, this skin sensation is determined, for example, by panel testing on subjects who qualify their sensory impressions with regard to certain parameters, such as "dryness of the skin", “softness of the skin” etc. by grading.
  • microemulsions to be used according to the invention can be used in concentrated form or as a further diluted solution.
  • cosmetic cleaners such as shampoo, baby care products, bubble bath, bath oil
  • the microemulsion can be used directly or formulated with other additives such as surfactants, thickeners, cationic polymers, preservatives, active ingredients.
  • additional anionic surfactants is preferred as foaming agents and thickeners.
  • a soaking agent for fabrics such as wet wipes however, only a dilution of the microemulsions with water is preferred.
  • Another object of the present invention therefore relates to cosmetic compositions containing
  • the cosmetic compositions according to invention are characterized by a good cleaning performance with an outstanding conditioning performance such as feeling of softness and the richly supplied skin or a pleasant grip and good combability of the hair.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the microemulsions B) already described, anionic surfactants A).
  • the anionic surfactants A) are selected from the group consisting of soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol cerium ether sulfonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, Ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates
  • Alkyl ether sulfates (“fatty alcohol ether sulfates”) are known anionic surfactants which are industrially produced by S0 3 - or chlorosulfonic acid (CSA) sulfation of fatty alcohol or oxoalkolyglycol ethers and subsequent neutralization.
  • CSA chlorosulfonic acid
  • ether sulfates which follow the formula R 2 0- (CH 2 CH 2 0) m S0 3 X, in which R 2 is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, m Numbers from 1 to 10 and X is an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium.
  • Typical examples are the sulfates of addition products of an average of 1 to 10 and especially 2 to 5 moles of ethylene oxide with caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, Petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenylalko- hol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures in the form of their sodium and / or magnesium salts.
  • the ether sulfates may have both a conventional and a narrow homolog distribution. Particularly preferred to use ether sulfates based on adducts of on average 2 to 3 moles of ethylene oxide with technical C12 / 14 or 2 Ci / i8-coconut fatty alcohol fractions in the form of their sodium and / or magnesium salts.
  • the anionic surfactants A) are preferably in amounts of from 5 to 50 wt .-%, preferably 5 to 25 and in particular 8 to 20 wt .-% - based on cosmetic agent - included.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as, for example, a quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone A inylimidazole polymers, such as, for example, Luvi lypeptides such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (lamequat), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethylenimine, cationic silicone polymers such as amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallyl-ammonium chloride (Merquat 550), polyamino-polyamides such as For example, in FR-A 2252840 and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives
  • cationic polymers are selected from the group of homopolymers or copolymers of ester or amide derivatives of acrylic or methacrylic acid (eg INCI: Polyquaternium-7, or PQ-7), homopolymers of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium chloride (INCI: Polyquaternium-37 , or PQ-37), quaternary copolymers of hydroxyethylcellulose and diallyl-dimethyl-ammonium chloride (INCI: Polyquaternium-4, or PQ-4), polymeric quaternized ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose, which are modified with a trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide (INCI: Polyquaternium-10, or PQ-10), depolymerized guar gum derivatives which are quaternized (INCI: guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride) or quaternized guar derivatives and quaternary copolymers of hydroxyethacryl
  • the cationic polymer C) is selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10 and cationic guar derivatives.
  • the cosmetic agents according to the invention preferably contain 0.02 to 2% by weight of these cationic polymers.
  • the cosmetic cleaners may additionally contain A) various surfactants, further surfactants D).
  • Typical examples of further surfactants D) are nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • nonionic surfactants D the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of the microemulsions according to the invention are preferably excluded.
  • Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are thus fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol ethers, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yloligoglycosides or glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolysates (esp - Wheat-based vegetable products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides.
  • the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably
  • cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds such as dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride, and ester quats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
  • preferred surfactants D) include amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfo betaines, particularly preferred is cocamidopropyl betaine.
  • the surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. Typical examples of particularly suitable milds, i.
  • particularly skin-compatible surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isothionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ⁇ -olefinsulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, amphoacetates such as sodium cocoamphoacetate and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.
  • Cocamidopropylbetaine is particularly preferably contained as further surfactant D).
  • the further surfactants D) are optional, although preferably in amounts of 0.2 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 5 to 10 wt .-% - based on cosmetic agent.
  • waxes may be present as further constituents in the cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention.
  • waxes are natural substances of animal or vegetable origin, which are solid at room temperature (21 ° C) but generally have a certain deformability. Waxes are insoluble in water, but are soluble in oils and capable of forming water-repellent films.
  • waxes within the meaning of the present teaching for use in the manufacture of detergents in general are natural waxes, such as e.g. Shorea Stenoptera butter (cegesoft SH), shea butter, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin, crepe fat, ceresin,
  • natural waxes such as e.g. Shorea Stenoptera butter (cegesoft SH), shea butter, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin, crepe fat, ceresin,
  • Ozokerite (petroleum wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (Hard waxes), such as montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.
  • esters of long-chain fatty acids (at least 14 C atoms) with long-chain fatty alcohols (at least 14 C atoms) such as myristyl myristate (Cetiol MM) or Ci 6 -C 8 triglycerides of Olus Oil (Cegesoft PS6) fall under the concept of waxes.
  • waxes refers in particular to esters of monocarboxylic acids having at least 14 carbon atoms and fatty alcohols containing at least 14 carbon atoms.
  • the natural waxes are particularly preferred, and among those shea butter is particularly preferred.
  • Shea butter also sheaf fat, sheaf fat or caritofett, gala butter
  • Shea butter is a natural solid fat derived from the plant Butyrospermum parkii, the African shea butter tree, and is available in commercial quantities. Its melting range is 35 to 42 ° C.
  • Shea butter usually contains 89 to 98% by weight of triglycerides, glycerol partial esters and free fatty acids, and a content of 2 to 11% by weight of unsaponifiable fractions, of which hydrocarbons (“carbitols”), triterpene alcohols and sterols are the most important.
  • the cosmetic compositions preferably contain the waxes E) in amounts of from 0 to 10% by weight, based on the cosmetic product.
  • the cosmetic cleansing compositions may contain other typical additives known to those skilled in the art such as emulsifiers, pearlescing waxes, stabilizers, salt, thickening agents, bodying agents, self-tanner, pigments, antioxidants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, deodorant and Antiperspirant active ingredients, biogenic agents.
  • emulsifiers pearlescing waxes, stabilizers, salt, thickening agents, bodying agents, self-tanner, pigments, antioxidants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, deodorant and Antiperspirant active ingredients, biogenic agents.
  • tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, deoxyribonucleic acid, coenzyme Q10, ascorbic acid, retinol and retinyl derivatives, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, essential oils, hyaluronic acid, creatine, protein hydrolysates, plant extracts are mentioned as biogenic active ingredients , Peptides and vitamin complexes are preferred.
  • consistency factors are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and in addition partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids into consideration.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas),
  • Polysaccharides especially xanthan gum, guar guar, agar, alginates and tyloses,
  • Carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropylcellulose also higher molecular weight Polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates and hydrophobically modified polyacrylates, polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone.
  • Bentonites which are a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate, have also proven to be particularly effective.
  • surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane such as Arlypon TT® a commercial product of BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.
  • Particularly preferred thickeners are mixtures of ethoxylated and / or propoxylated polyol esters of trimethylolpropane with ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as Arlypon TT®.
  • preservatives are used according to the invention, these are preferably selected from the group formed by benzoic acid and its salts, citric acid and its salts, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, alkylparabens, preferably ethyl, methyl and propylparaben.
  • suitable preservatives are, for example, formaldehyde solution, pentanediol or sorbic acid and also the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the further classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.
  • the preparation of the cosmetic cleaning agents is preferably carried out in such a way that the microemulsions B) are stirred into the presented further ingredients of the cosmetic cleaning compositions A), C) according to the invention, and optionally D), E), F) and optionally water.
  • the addition of the microemulsion to the other constituents of the cleaning agent is recommended at room temperature (cold production) or at slightly elevated temperatures, preferably at 30 to 60 ° C. Cold production is possible only if the preformulated microemulsions are used.
  • the cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention contain
  • anionic surfactants preferably fatty alcohol ether sulfates
  • Particularly preferred is a cosmetic detergent containing
  • anionic surfactants preferably fatty alcohol ether sulfates
  • the cosmetic cleansing compositions of the present invention may be used in the form of finely divided emulsions such as shower gels, shower baths, hair shampoos, hair lotions, bubble baths, hand cleansers, facial cleansers, make-up removers, bath preparations, baby care products, as creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat compounds, stick preparations, powders or ointments.
  • finely divided emulsions such as shower gels, shower baths, hair shampoos, hair lotions, bubble baths, hand cleansers, facial cleansers, make-up removers, bath preparations, baby care products, as creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat compounds, stick preparations, powders or ointments.
  • the cosmetic cleaners can also serve as impregnation medium for wipes, tissues that are wet or dry applied by the consumer or even applied from a Pumpfoamer.
  • microemulsions examples include:
  • the two microemulsions M1 and M2 were prepared by mixing all components with moderate mechanics (paddle stirrer at 850 rpm) and heating to 75 ° C for one hour.
  • Formulations B1 and C1 are according to the invention and contain microemulsion cationic polymer, A1 serves as a comparison formulation without microemulsion.
  • Formulations B2 and C2 are according to the invention and contain the microemulsion as well as cationic polymer, A2 serves as a comparison formulation without microemulsion
  • the shampoo conditioning performance tests were performed on 5 strands of hair in an automated wet combing system.
  • the pretreatment of the hair strands (12 cm / 1 g) from I Hl P was carried out in an automated hair treatment system:
  • the treatment and subsequent rinsing was repeated a second time. Then the comparative measurement (for the zero measurement) took place. The measurements were made with the fine crest side of the natural rubber combs.
  • Table 5 shows the mean value for wet combability (mJ) determined between 3rd and 23th meshing, the standard deviation (%) and the residual combability (%).
  • the residual combing work per tress was calculated as follows:

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des microémulsions contenant au moins un alkyl(oligo)glycoside, au moins un ester d'isosorbide en tant que co-tensioactif, au moins un constituant huile organique non soluble dans l'eau, et de l'eau, lesdites microémulsions pouvant être employées de manière remarquable pour la préparation de produits de lavage cosmétiques. En particulier des shampoings contenant les microémulsions selon l'invention se caractérisent, avec des composés polymères cationiques, par un bon effet de conditionneur et une bonne peignabilité sur cheveux mouillés.
PCT/EP2015/052108 2014-02-13 2015-02-03 Microémulsions et produits de lavage cosmétiques contenant des microémulsions WO2015121101A1 (fr)

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EP3166585B1 (fr) * 2014-07-11 2020-09-09 Basf Se Composition contenant du monooléate d'isosorbide

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WO2002041848A2 (fr) * 2000-11-23 2002-05-30 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Preparations pour pulverisation exemptes de gaz propulseur
US6710223B1 (en) * 1997-09-10 2004-03-23 The Procter & Gamble Company Method for improving skin condition
WO2008155075A2 (fr) * 2007-06-19 2008-12-24 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Composition de shampooing à performances améliorées en termes de soins
US20110117036A1 (en) * 2009-11-13 2011-05-19 Sytheon Limited Compositions and Methods for Improving Skin Appearance
DE102011015192A1 (de) * 2011-03-25 2012-09-27 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verfahren zur Herstellung eines konditionierenden Reinigungsmittels

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US6710223B1 (en) * 1997-09-10 2004-03-23 The Procter & Gamble Company Method for improving skin condition
WO2002041848A2 (fr) * 2000-11-23 2002-05-30 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Preparations pour pulverisation exemptes de gaz propulseur
WO2008155075A2 (fr) * 2007-06-19 2008-12-24 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Composition de shampooing à performances améliorées en termes de soins
US20110117036A1 (en) * 2009-11-13 2011-05-19 Sytheon Limited Compositions and Methods for Improving Skin Appearance
DE102011015192A1 (de) * 2011-03-25 2012-09-27 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verfahren zur Herstellung eines konditionierenden Reinigungsmittels

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GIACOMETTI J ET AL: "Process for Preparing Nonionic Surfactant Sorbitan Fatty Acid Esters with and without Previous Sorbitol Cyclization", JOURNAL OF AGRICULTURAL AND FOOD CHEMISTRY, AMERICAN CHEMICAL SOCIETY, US, vol. 44, 1 January 1996 (1996-01-01), pages 3950 - 3954, XP002278710, ISSN: 0021-8561, DOI: 10.1021/JF950314J *

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3166585B1 (fr) * 2014-07-11 2020-09-09 Basf Se Composition contenant du monooléate d'isosorbide

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