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WO2015090911A1 - Utilisation de polymères cationiques comme agents opacifiants pour des compositions cosmétiques - Google Patents

Utilisation de polymères cationiques comme agents opacifiants pour des compositions cosmétiques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015090911A1
WO2015090911A1 PCT/EP2014/076047 EP2014076047W WO2015090911A1 WO 2015090911 A1 WO2015090911 A1 WO 2015090911A1 EP 2014076047 W EP2014076047 W EP 2014076047W WO 2015090911 A1 WO2015090911 A1 WO 2015090911A1
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weight
carbon atoms
cosmetic
compositions
use according
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PCT/EP2014/076047
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Thomas Schröder
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2015090911A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015090911A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26—Optical properties
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to the use of specific cationic polymers as opacifiers in cosmetic products.
  • the invention relates to a process for the preparation of opaque cosmetic compositions using the cationic polymers as well as a cosmetic detergent containing a combination of two special anionic surfactants, a cationic polymer and an additional conditioning agent.
  • composition should be less complex and contain the lowest possible number of highly effective agents.
  • the cosmetic compositions should preferably be particularly mild hair treatment agents, in particular sulfate-free hair cleaners.
  • the foam properties of the compositions could be improved.
  • opaque compositions are understood to mean that the cosmetic agents at 25 ° C. preferably have a turbidity of> 50 NTU (Nephelometry Turbidity Unit), more preferably> 100 NTU, more preferably> 150 NTU and in particular > 200 NTU (measured for example with a device "2100P Turbidimeter” from Hach).
  • NTU Nephelometry Turbidity Unit
  • a first object of the invention is therefore the use of Diallyldialkylammoniumsalze containing homo- or copolymers as opacifiers in cosmetic products.
  • Cosmetic agents are preferably understood to mean cosmetic agents for the hair treatment, such as, for example, hair rinses, hair treatments, styling agents such as hair gels, hair waxes or hair foams, hair dyes, hair bleaches, hair shaping agents and / or hair cleansing agents.
  • Cosmetic agents are particularly preferably understood as meaning aqueous cosmetic agents and very particularly preferably aqueous hair-cleansing and hair-care compositions, such as hair conditioners, hair conditioners and / or hair-cleansing compositions.
  • aqueous cosmetic agents are preferably understood means which contain at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight and most preferably at least 70% by weight of water.
  • the agents may contain 0.01 to 40 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 35 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 30 wt .-% of at least one alcohol which may be selected from ethanol, 1 - propanol , 2-propanol, isopropanol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1, 2-butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5 Pentanediol, 1, hexanol, 2-hexanol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sorbitan, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol or mixtures of these alcohols.
  • at least one alcohol which may be selected from ethanol, 1 - prop
  • ethanol particularly preferred are ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol and / or phenoxyethanol and mixtures of these alcohols.
  • glycerin particularly preferred is the use of homo- or copolymers containing diallyldialkylammonium salts as opacifiers in water-containing cosmetic products, wherein the weight proportion of water in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight. %, more preferably at least 65 wt .-%, most preferably at least 70 wt .-% and particularly preferably at least 75 wt .-% is.
  • the homopolymers or copolymers suitable for the use according to the invention which contain diallyldialkylammonium salts preferably correspond to compounds of the formula (I) or (
  • Y- which preferably have a weight average molecular weight in the range of 10,000 to 3,000,000 and in which
  • n 1
  • R 3 is hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical
  • R 1 and R 2 independently of one another represent a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 -alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl radical or a C 1 -C 5 -aminoalkyl radical, and
  • Y stands for bromide, chloride, acetate, citrate, tartrate, sulfate or phosphate.
  • both the homopolymers according to formula (I) or (II) and their copolymers with acrylamide are suitable according to the invention. Particular preference is given to homopolymers and copolymers of the formula (I) or (II) in which R 3 is hydrogen and R 1, R 2 are each a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, preferably a methyl group.
  • dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers having an average molecular weight in the range of about 10,000 to 1,000,000, known for example under the INCI name Polyquaternium-6 and commercially available under the trade name "Merquat® 100", and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymers an average molecular weight in the range of about 100,000 to 3,000,000, for example, under the INCI name Polyquaternium-7 are known and commercially available under the trade name "Merquat® 550.”
  • Particularly preferred is Polyquaternium-6.
  • diallyldialkylammonium salts which are selected from diallyldimethylammonium salt homopolymers and / or from diallyldimethylammonium salt / acrylamide copolymers, more preferably from those under the INCI names Polyquaternium-6 and / or Polyquaternium-7 known polymers. Especially preferred is polyquaternium-6.
  • the proportion by weight of the homo- or copolymers containing diallyldialkylammonium salts in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight. % and in particular 0.2 to 2 wt .-%.
  • cosmetic agents are preferably understood to mean aqueous cosmetic agents and very particularly preferably aqueous hair cleansing and hair care compositions, such as hair conditioners, hair conditioners and / or hair cleansing compositions.
  • Such agents usually contain at least one surfactant, which may be selected from anionic, cationic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and / or nonionic surfactants.
  • Hair care products such as hair rinses and / or hair treatments preferably contain at least one cationic surfactant, while hair cleaners preferably contain at least one foaming anionic surfactant.
  • the proportion by weight of the surfactant or surfactants (e) in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably 0.1 to 40 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 35 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.75 to 30 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 25 wt .-%.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the use according to the invention is accordingly characterized in that the cosmetic compositions furthermore comprise at least one anionic, cationic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and / or nonionic surfactant, wherein the proportion by weight of the at least one surfactant in the total weight of the compositions is preferably from 0.1 to 40 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 35 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.75 to 30 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 25 wt .-% is.
  • Hair care preparations such as hair conditioners and / or hair treatments, which are obtainable by the use according to the invention preferably contain at least one cationic surfactant.
  • Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and / or amidoamines.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkyl methylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-87.
  • the alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, Dehyquart® ®, ® and Armocare® Quartamin ®.
  • alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • a particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 stearamidopropyl commercially represent.
  • the use according to the invention is particularly suitable for cosmetic cleansing agents, in particular aqueous cosmetic cleansing compositions.
  • hair cleansers suitable for the use according to the invention comprise at least one anionic surfactant, which is preferably selected from anionic surfactants which contain substantially no sulfate groups.
  • the cosmetic agents preferably less than 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably less than 0.3 wt .-% and in particular less than 0.1 wt .-% sulfate-containing surfactants
  • the quantities are based on the total weight of the cosmetic products.
  • the particularly suitable anionic surfactants include, for example:
  • Sulfobernsteinklamono- and / or dialkyl ester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
  • the proportion by weight of the anionic surfactant (s) in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.75 to 17.5% by weight. -% and in particular 1 to 15 wt .-%.
  • a third preferred embodiment of the use according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the cosmetic compositions comprise at least one anionic surfactant, wherein the proportion by weight of the at least one anionic surfactant in the total weight of the compositions preferably 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.75 to 17.5 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 15 wt .-% is.
  • Sulfobernsteinklamono- and / or dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
  • An anionic surfactant which is particularly suitable for the purposes of the present invention is characterized by the general formula (III)
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl or a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical,
  • R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms
  • M + is in each case an ammonium, an alkanolammonium or a metal cation.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants of the aforementioned formula (III) have as radical R a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the radical R particularly preferably represents a Cs, C10, C12, C-M, C16 radical or mixtures of these fatty acid radicals, as are obtained when the fatty acid (s) is derived from natural oils, such as coconut oil (s) ,
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 may each stand for hydrogen or a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-butyl or 2-butyl group.
  • the radicals R 2 to R 5 are preferably hydrogen or at least one of the radicals R 2 to R 5 is a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group and in particular a methyl group.
  • one of the radicals R 2 to R 5 is a C 1 -C 4 radical
  • Alkyl group - especially a methyl group - and the other radicals each for a
  • the anionic surfactant of the formula (III) contains an isomer mixture in which both components are present, for example, as the radical R 2 is a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group - especially a methyl group - and as radicals R 3 to R 5 each have a hydrogen atom, as well as components which, for example, as the radical R 5 have a Ci-C4-alkyl group - in particular a methyl group - and as radicals R 2 to R 4 each have a hydrogen atom.
  • M + in the aforementioned formula (III) is preferably an alkali metal cation or an ammonium ion. Most preferably, the M + is a potassium or a sodium ion and most preferably a sodium ion.
  • Very particularly preferred anionic surfactants of the aforementioned formula (III) are those under the INCI names Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate, Sodium Myristyl Isethionate, Sodium Palmitoyl Isethionate, Sodium Stearyl Isethionate, Sodium Oleyl Isethionate, Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Myristyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Palmitoyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Stearyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Oleyl Methyl Isethionate Known surfactants, especially compounds known from Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate and / or Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate.
  • An anionic surfactant which is furthermore particularly suitable for the purposes of the present application is characterized by the general formula (IV)
  • R ' is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms
  • n is a number from 0 to 20, preferably 0 or 1 to 10, and
  • X represents an ammonium, an alkanolammonium or a metal cation.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants of the abovementioned formula (IV) have, as the radical R ', a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the radical R ' is a Cs, C10, C12, CM, Ci6 radical or mixtures of these fatty acid radicals as obtained when the fatty acid (s) is derived from natural oils such as coconut oil (n ).
  • n is particularly preferably 0 or the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6.
  • X in the aforementioned formula (IV) is preferably an alkali metal or an ammonium ion.
  • the X is a potassium or a sodium ion and particularly preferably a sodium ion.
  • Very particularly preferred anionic surfactants according to formula (IV) are, for example, the compounds known under the INCI names Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate and Disodium Cocoyl Sulfosuccinate.
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl or a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical,
  • R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms
  • M + is in each case an ammonium, an alkanolammonium or a metal cation, and / or b) at least one anionic surfactant of the following formula (IV)
  • R ' is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms
  • n is a number from 0 to 20, preferably from 1 to 10, and
  • X is an ammonium, an alkanolammonium or a metal cation.
  • cosmetic compositions whose proportion by weight of anionic surfactants according to formula (III) in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 5 wt .-% and / or their weight fraction of anionic surfactants according to formula (IV) am
  • Total weight of the cosmetic agent is preferably 0.1 to 12 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 7.5 wt .-% is.
  • Treated hair have an improved hair grip and are easier to comb, in particular, the wet combability of the hair could be increased compared to commercial means.
  • One aim of the use according to the invention was to provide particularly mild cosmetic compositions, which could be achieved especially in the case of cosmetic hair cleansers, in particular sulfate-free hair cleansers containing at least one of the surfactants of the aforementioned formulas (III) and / or (IV).
  • the mildness and / or the foam properties - in particular the foaming and the foam amount - of the compositions can be further increased if the surfactant (s) according to the formulas (III) or (IV) in Combination with at least one other surfactant selected from other (different from surfactants of formula (I)) anionic surfactants, amphoteric, zwitterionic and / or nonionic surfactants, is used / be. If other anionic surfactants are used, it is advantageous if these also contain no sulfate groups.
  • Suitable amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants for the use according to the invention preferably correspond to at least one compound of the following formulas (i) to (vii) in which the radical R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical 7 to 23 carbon atoms (formulas (i) and (ii)) or a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms (formulas (iii) to (vii)),
  • Preferred amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants of the abovementioned formulas (i) to (vii) contain as radical R predominantly a straight-chain or branched, saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl radical having 8 to 20, more preferably 8 to 16 and in particular with 8 to 12 carbon atoms.
  • amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants in which the radical R is derived from coconut oil.
  • amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants of the formulas (iii), (v), (vi) and (vii).
  • amphoteric surfactants known under the INCI names cocamidopropyl betaine and / or cocoampho (di) acetate and commercially available from several suppliers.
  • the proportion by weight of the amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant (s) of one of the abovementioned formulas (i) to (vii) in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions of the use according to the invention is preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably 1 to 12, 5 wt .-% and in particular from 2 to 10 wt .-%.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants / emulsifiers for use in the invention include, for example
  • R is preferably a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and the radicals R 'are hydrogen or the group - (CH 2) n OH, in which n is 2 or 3 with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R 'is the abovementioned radical - (CH 2) n OH,
  • Suitable alkyl (oligo) glycosides may be selected from compounds of the general formula RO- [G] x , in which [G] is preferably derived from aldoses and / or ketoses having 5-6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
  • the index number x stands for the degree of oligomerization (DP), i. for the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides.
  • the index number x preferably has a value in the range of 1 to 10, more preferably in the range of 1 to 3, which may not be an integer, but may be a fractional number that can be determined analytically.
  • Particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides have a degree of oligomerization between 1, 2 and 1.5.
  • the radical R is preferably at least one alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • Particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides are the compounds known under the INCI names Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside.
  • Suitable amine oxides may be selected from at least one compound of the general formulas (II) or (III)
  • R in each case represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18
  • Cocamine oxides particularly preferred are the known under the INCI names Cocamine oxides, lauramine oxides and / or Cocamidopropylaminoxid and commercially available from various suppliers surfactants of the aforementioned formula (II) or (III).
  • Suitable Cs-Cso-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto glycerol are preferably understood to mean the glyceryl cocoates, in particular PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, under the INCI names PEG (1-10).
  • ethoxylated fatty acid esters may also be advantageous to combine the ethoxylated fatty acid esters with other ethoxylated fatty acid esters.
  • Such product mixtures are commercially available - for example, under the name "Antil 200®” (INCI name: PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) from Evonik.
  • the proportion by weight of the nonionic surfactant (s) and / or emulsifier (s) in the total weight of the cosmetic agents of the use according to the invention is preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8.5% by weight and in particular from 2 to 7.5% by weight.
  • a fifth preferred embodiment of the use according to the invention is accordingly characterized in that the cosmetic compositions are selected from hair cleansing compositions, preferably from aqueous sulfate-free hair cleansing compositions containing homo or copolymers containing at least one Diallyldialkylammoniumchloridsalze
  • At least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl (oligo) glycosides and / or Cs-Cso fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide to glycerol.
  • the cosmetic agents are selected from aqueous sulfate-free hair cleansing compositions containing the active ingredients known under the following INCI names: (i) polyquaternium-6 and / or polyquaternium-7, in particular polyquaternium-6,
  • caprylyl / capryl glucosides (iv) caprylyl / capryl glucosides, decyl glucosides, lauryl glucosides, coco glucosides and / or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate,
  • the care properties of the cosmetic compositions can be further increased if they contain at least one conditioning agent which can be selected from the group of
  • Copolymers are different,
  • Suitable protein hydrolysates are product mixtures which can be obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • protein hydrolysates of plant origin eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • cationized protein hydrolysates the protein hydrolyzate on which the animal is based, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from Wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, such as fish collagen or algae, or derived from biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates, may originate.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives include the products known and commercially available under the INCI names: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin , Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Case
  • Suitable further cationic polymers are, for example:
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives which may be hydrophobically modified, for example
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially,
  • Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM offered 552,
  • Polyquaternium 89 known polymers Polyquaternium 89 known polymers.
  • Preferred further cationic polymers are preferably selected from the polymers known under the INCI names Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-10 and / or Polyquaternium-37. Particularly preferred are the polymers known under the INCI names guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides and polyquaternium-10 known polymers.
  • the proportion by weight of the cationic polymer (s) in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight and in particular 0, 1 to 2 wt .-%.
  • Suitable vitamins are preferably the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives:
  • Vitamin A the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • Vitamin B may belong to the vitamin B group or to the vitamin B complex. a.
  • Vitamin B3 > Vitamin B3. Under this designation are often the compounds nicotinic acid and
  • Nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide).
  • Vitamin Bs pantothenic acid and panthenol. Within this group is preferred
  • panthenol used the panthenol.
  • Useful derivatives of panthenol are in particular the
  • Panthenol esters and ethers pantolactone and cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
  • Vitamin Be pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal.
  • Vitamin C ascorbic acid: use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, in the meantime, the trivial name biotin has prevailed.
  • vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H Particular preference is given to nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol.
  • the proportion by weight of the vitamin (s), vitamin derivative (s), and / or the vitamin precursor (s) in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably from 0.001 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 1% by weight and in particular 0 , 01 to 0.5 wt .-%.
  • Suitable oil, wax and / or fat components may preferably be selected from mineral, natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances.
  • natural (vegetable) oils usually triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides are used.
  • Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, Apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil , Safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.
  • mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons.
  • An example of a usable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S).
  • the oil component may further serve a dialkyl ether.
  • dialkyl ethers are in particular di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether
  • Suitable synthetic oils are preferably silicone compounds.
  • Silicones have excellent conditioning properties on the hair. In particular, they cause better combability of the hair in the wet and dry state and in many cases have a positive effect on the hair and the softness of the hair.
  • Suitable silicones may be selected from:
  • polyalkyl siloxanes polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
  • Fatty substances are to be understood fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes, which may be present both in solid form and liquid in aqueous dispersion.
  • the fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil;
  • stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C6-C30, preferably C10-C22 and very particularly preferably C12-C22, carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, lsofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ® 24 for sale.
  • wool wax alcohols as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention.
  • waxes may be used solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • Other fatty substances are, for example
  • Ester oils are the esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, caprate Kokosfettalkohol- / - caprylate (Cetiol ® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ® IPP), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ® B),
  • Myristyl myristate (Cetiol ® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ® V).
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2) ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
  • Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC)
  • ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ®, ® Monomuls 90-L12, Cetiol ® HE or Cutina ® MD.
  • the proportion by weight of the oil, wax and / or fat components in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions is preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.025 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 3 wt .-%.
  • cosmetic cleansing compositions containing as care component at least one further cationic polymer, at least one water-insoluble silicone compound and / or at least one vitamin (derivative).
  • a nourishing active ingredient complex which contains at least two nourishing substances from the abovementioned active ingredient groups.
  • Glycerol may be added to the cosmetics separately in an amount of up to 10% by weight (based on the total weight of the detergent). It may also be part of the aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • cosmetic agents obtainable by the use according to the invention are also suitable for use as antidandruff preparations.
  • the total weight of anti-dandruff agents in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions may preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.025 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.075 to 3 wt .-% amount.
  • Suitable antidandruff active ingredients may be selected from Piroctone olamine, climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and / or arnica extracts.
  • auxiliaries and additives which may preferably be present in the cosmetic agents obtainable according to the use according to the invention are, for example: Plant extracts,
  • Thickening agents such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
  • Thickeners such as acrylic and methacrylic (co) polymers, for example, the crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid (INCI name: Carbomer), which are also referred to as carboxyvinyl polymers.
  • Such polyacrylic acids are inter alia from the company. 3V Sigma under the trade name Polygel®, z. B. Polygel DA and from B.F. Goodrich under the trade name Carbopol® available, z. Carbopol 940 (molecular weight about 4,000,000), Carbopol 941 (molecular weight about 1 250,000) or Carbopol 934 (molecular weight about 3,000,000).
  • the following acrylic acid copolymers are suitable:
  • Copolymers of two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple, preferably with C1-C4-alkanols formed esters (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer), such as the copolymers of methacrylic acid, butyl acrylate and methyl methacrylate or butyl acrylate and methyl methacrylate, and which are available, for example, from Rohm & Haas under the trade names Aculyn® and Acusol® and from Degussa (Goldschmidt) under the trade name Tego® Polymer, eg Aculyn 22, Aculyn 28, Aculyn 33 (cross-linked), Acusol 810, Acusol 820, Acusol 823 and Acusol 830;
  • crosslinked high molecular weight acrylic acid copolymers such as those crosslinked with an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol copolymers of C10-C30 alkyl acrylates with one or more monomers selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple, preferably with C1-C4-alkanols , Esters (INCI name: acrylates (C10-C30) -alkyl acrylate crosspolymer), and which are available, for example, from the company BF Goodrich under the trade name Carbopol®, z. Carbopol ETD 2020 and Carbopol 1382 (INCI Acrylates (C10-C30) alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) and Carbopol Aqua 30,
  • Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid
  • cyclodextrins fiber-structure-improving active ingredients in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
  • Substances for adjusting the pH for example ⁇ - and ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid,
  • Active ingredients such as bisabolol,
  • Ceramides are understood as meaning N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogs of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides),
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
  • Preservatives such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid
  • Additional viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCl).
  • the cosmetic agents obtainable according to the use according to the invention may preferably have a pH in the range from 3 to 8, more preferably from 3.5 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 4 to 7 and in particular from 4.5 to 6.5.
  • the cosmetic agents obtainable according to the use according to the invention preferably have a viscosity in the range from 1, 000 to 15,000 mPas, preferably from 1, 500 to 12,500 mPas and especially from 3,000 to 10,000 mPas (each measured with a Haake VT550 rotational viscometer, 20 ° C. C, measuring device MV, spindle MV II, 8 rpm).
  • Compositions of such a viscosity can be well distributed on the respective application surface - particularly preferably on the hair - and, if appropriate, rinse off again with water after use.
  • a second aspect of the invention is a process for the preparation of opaque cosmetic compositions, in particular aqueous cosmetic compositions, in which diallyldialkylammonium salts containing homo- or copolymers are added, wherein the weight fraction of Diallyldialkylammoniumsalze homo or copolymers contained in the total weight of the compositions 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.2 to 2 wt .-% is.
  • Particularly suitable is the method of the second subject of the invention in the manufacture of cosmetic compositions which are selected from cosmetic hair treatment compositions, preferably from hair cleansers and in particular from conditioning hair cleansers.
  • a third aspect of the invention is an opaque cosmetic cleanser which is in an aqueous carrier
  • radicals R 2 to R 5 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl or a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical,
  • R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms
  • M + is in each case an ammonium, an alkanolammonium or a metal cation, and / or 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant of the following formula (IV) in the
  • R ' is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms
  • n is a number from 0 to 20, preferably from 1 to 10, and
  • X represents an ammonium, an alkanolammonium or a metal cation
  • At least one conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers other than the polymers b), water-insoluble silicone compounds and / or vitamins (derivatives),
  • compositions A-F the following commercial products were used:
  • INCI name COCO-GLUCOSIDE, AQUA; 51 -53% AS; BASF, INCI name: AQUA, COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE; 35 to 37.5% AS; Evonik, INCI name: Polyquaternium-10; Shanghai Jida Meticulous Chemical Industry,
  • compositions preparable by the use according to the invention have an opaque appearance without having to add additional pearlescers, pigments or opacifiers.
  • compositions B and E have improved feel and wet combability over Compositions A, C, D and F.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation d'homopolymères ou de copolymères contenant des sels de diallyl dialkyl d'ammonium en tant qu'agents opacifiants dans des produits cosmétiques. L'invention concerne par ailleurs un procédé de production de produits cosmétiques opaques, en particulier de produits cosmétiques aqueux, dans lequel des homopolymères ou des copolymères contenant des sels de diallyl dialkyl d'ammonium sont ajoutés au produit, la part en poids de sels de diallyl dialkyl d'ammonium par rapport au poids total de la composition étant comprise entre 0,01 et 10 % en poids, de préférence entre 0,05 et 5 % en poids, de préférence encore entre 0,1 et 3 % en poids, et de préférence encore entre 0,2 et 2 % en poids. L'invention concerne en outre un produit cosmétique nettoyant opaque, qui contient au moins un tensioactif anionique spécial, au moins un homopolymère ou un copolymère contenant des sels de diallyl dialkyl d'ammonium, et au moins un principe actif de conditionnement.
PCT/EP2014/076047 2013-12-17 2014-12-01 Utilisation de polymères cationiques comme agents opacifiants pour des compositions cosmétiques WO2015090911A1 (fr)

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DE102018215303A1 (de) 2018-09-10 2020-03-12 Beiersdorf Ag Trübungsmittel auf der Basis natur-basierter Komponenten
DE102018219633A1 (de) * 2018-11-16 2020-05-20 Beiersdorf Ag Reinigungszubereitung enthaltend Mizellen
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