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WO2014204008A1 - Composition cosmétique d'aérosol en mousse - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique d'aérosol en mousse Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014204008A1
WO2014204008A1 PCT/JP2014/066494 JP2014066494W WO2014204008A1 WO 2014204008 A1 WO2014204008 A1 WO 2014204008A1 JP 2014066494 W JP2014066494 W JP 2014066494W WO 2014204008 A1 WO2014204008 A1 WO 2014204008A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
foam
composition according
oil
fatty acid
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2014/066494
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Takehiko Kasai
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2014204008A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014204008A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a foam aerosol cosmetic composition, particularly, an aerosol-type foundation and a method for making up a keratinous material.
  • the present invention relates to a composition in the foam form for caring for and/or making up keratin materials.
  • the composition according to the invention may be, for example, a composition for making up or caring for keratinous substances, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows or nails, preferably the skin.
  • the makeup composition may be selected from, e.g., a foundation, a face powder, an eye shadow, a concealer, a blusher, a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip gloss, a mascara, an eyeliner and a product for making up the body or coloring the skin. It may especially be a foundation base. It has already been proposed to introduce a gas into cosmetic compositions to give them a light texture and the appearance of foam. This is known as overrunning.
  • compositions in the foam form currently available are not always entirely satisfactory, firstly in terms of foam quality and secondly in terms of foam durability.
  • the aerosol comprises a cosmetic composition in a juice form and a volatile liquid, i.e., a propellant dissolved or finely and uniformly dispersed in the composition, and the aerosol is sprayed from the container into a foam.
  • a volatile liquid i.e., a propellant dissolved or finely and uniformly dispersed in the composition
  • the foam aerosol cosmetic composition conventionally used is roughly classified into an aqueous foam cosmetic composition and an oily foam cosmetic composition.
  • the aqueous foam cosmetic composition has a disadvantage that it cannot contain a large amount of an oil component which is usually incorporated in order to improve wear, to provide emollient properties, and to well disperse hydrophobic powders therein.
  • the oil foam cosmetic composition has a disadvantage that it is too sticky and/or too oily and does not give fresh (watery) feeling, as explained in detail below.
  • the oily foam cosmetic composition contains a large amount of oil component and therefore, when used as skincare products, the oily foam cosmetic composition can form an appropriately emollient film on the skin, when used as makeup products, the oily foam cosmetic composition can impart to a pigment spreadability and adhesion onto skin, and when used as haircare products, the oily foam cosmetic composition can make hair lustrous and give a setting property. Further, the oily foam cosmetic composition exhibits excellent luster and has high water repellancy with less makeup deterioration, and therefore is advantageously used as a foundation. However, the oily foam cosmetic composition contains oil component in a large amount, and hence has disadvantages that it is difficult to obtain a fine and stable foam, and that the oily foam cosmetic composition used as a foundation has sticky and oily feeling. As examples of oily foam cosmetic compositions, mentioned may be made of:
  • JP 4065841 discloses an oily mousse aerosol composition comprising an oil and diglyceryl laurate in which the monoester content is 50 % by weight or more.
  • JP 4355264 discloses a foam type cosmetic composition which comprises 1) at least 2 kinds of specific fatty acid esters of polyglycerin; 2) polyalcohol; and 3) liquid oily component, but does not comprise water.
  • JP 4083076 discloses a mousse cosmetic composition which comprises 1) at least one selected from liquid PEG and glycerin; 2) a specific fatty acid ester of polyglycerin; 3) at least one of specific polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene alkyl (alkenyl) ether and polyglyceryl polyoxybutylene alkyl (alkenyl) ether; and 4) gaseous component, but does not comprise water.
  • JP 4169639 discloses a mousse cosmetic composition which comprises 1) at least one polyalcohol selected from PEG and glycerin; 2) diglyceryl monolaurate and diglyceryl monooleate; 3) a liquid oil; and 4) gaseous component, but does not comprise water.
  • JP 4491279 discloses an oily foam aerosol cosmetic composition comprising an oily component, and a lipophilic mono fatty acid ester of diglycerin and a hydrophilic mono fatty acid ester of decaglycerin.
  • Patent document 1 Japanese Patent No. 4065841
  • Patent document 2 Japanese Patent No. 4355264
  • Patent document 6 European Patent No. 1438946
  • One of the objectives of the present invention is to provide a foam aerosol cosmetic composition, which is advantageous not only in that the composition can contain an oily phase in a large amount with improved wear property and having good stability properties when formed when sprayed from an aerosol.
  • a composition is able to homogeneously disperse hydrophobic powders such as fillers and pigments for makeup result (coverage and shade), and may have improved emollient and watery feeling due to the high level of aqueous phase.
  • the foam according to the invention is not homogeneously dispersible in water.
  • the foam aerosol composition is a w/o emulsion type.
  • the foam aerosol composition may be formed via a simple aerosol or a double aerosol wherein each phase is separated.
  • the base composition is an emulsion, being in contact with the gas in a simple aerosol.
  • the base composition is separated from the gas inside a double aerosol.
  • a foam aerosol cosmetic composition which can contain a large amount of oil component and reduce sticky and oily feeling, and form a fine and stable foam when sprayed from an aerosol, if the cosmetic composition contains (a) an aqueous phase; (b) a fatty phase; and (c) a fatty acid ester having C 12- i 6 chain as an acid moiety, and having an HLB value of from 7.5 to 10.0.
  • the foam aerosol cosmetic composition preferably in a form of a w/o emulsion, comprises (a) an aqueous phase, (b) a fatty phase, and (c) a fatty acid ester having Ci 2- i 6 chain as an acidic moiety and having HLB value of from 7.5 to 10.0.
  • the foam aerosol cosmetic composition comprises (a) an aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase comprises water.
  • a water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25°C), for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol;
  • monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol
  • polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glyco
  • glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (Ci-C 4 )alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the (a) aqueous phase may be present in an amount in the range of at least 10.0 %, preferably at least 15.0 %, more preferably from 20.0 to 70.0 %, further preferably from 20.0 to 60.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the foam aerosol cosmetic composition.
  • the foam aerosol cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty phase containing at least an oil.
  • oil means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the fatty phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof, preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil and a silicone oil, more preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil, and furthermore preferably an ester from a fatty acid ester of an alcohol.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile, and preferably non-volatile oil. They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • volatile oil means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm 2 /min, limits included.
  • non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm /min.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • the volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C 8-16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for instance the oils sold under the trade names Isopar ® or Permethyl ® .
  • hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C 8-16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for instance the oils sold under the trade names Isopar ® or Permethyl ® .
  • Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10 "6 m 2 /s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicones for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10 "6 m 2 /s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl- cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl- tetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • Volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethyl- cyclopentane, and mixtures thereof, may also be used.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise from less than 15.0 %, or even from 0 to 10.0 %, or even from 0 to 5.0 % by weight of volatile oil relative to the total weight of the foam aerosol cosmetic composition.
  • the non- volatile oils may be chosen especially from non- volatile hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.
  • Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C 4 to C 36 and especially from Ci 8 to C 36 , these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane;
  • R 1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms
  • R represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that the sum of the number of carbon atoms in
  • esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid esters of alcohols, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl oc
  • polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate
  • dialkyl carbonates the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC ® by Cognis,
  • oils of high molar mass in particular having a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10,000 g/mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10,000 g/mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7,500 g/mol and more particularly ranging from about 1,000 to about 5,000 g/mol.
  • oils of high molar mass that may be used in the present invention, mention may especially be made of oils chosen from: lipophilic polymers; linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70; hydroxylated esters; aromatic esters; C 24 -C 28 branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters; silicone oils; oils of plant origin; and mixtures thereof;
  • hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone fluoro oils for instance fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A-847 752;
  • silicone oils for instance linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and
  • a composition of the invention may comprise from 1.0 to 64.0 %, or even from 10.0 to 55.0 %, or even from 25.0 to 45.0 % by weight of non-volatile oil relative to the total weight of the foam aerosol cosmetic composition.
  • the foam aerosol cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more lipophilic structuring agents for the fatty phase, chosen from a wax and a pasty compound, and mixtures thereof.
  • a wax that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen especially from waxes of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • waxes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:
  • waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, plant waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter, cork fibre wax or sugarcane wax,
  • - mineral waxes for example paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline waxes, or ozokerites,
  • silicone waxes in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes; examples that may be mentioned include polyether silicone waxes, alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones containing from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, and alkyl methicones, for instance the C 30 -C 45 alkyl methicone sold under the trade name AMS C 30 by Dow Corning,
  • - hydrogenated oils that are concrete at 25 °C, such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and fatty esters that are solid at 25°C, for instance the C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen,
  • use will be made of polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, carnauba waxes, hydrogenated jojoba oil, candelilla waxes and beeswaxes, and/or mixtures thereof.
  • a foam aerosol cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more pasty compounds.
  • a pasty compound may make it possible advantageously to impart improved comfort during the application of a composition of the invention to keratin fibres.
  • a compound may be chosen advantageously from lanolin and derivatives thereof; polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds; polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds; vinyl polymers, especially olefin homopolymers; olefin copolymers; hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers; linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group; oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups; oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers containing C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers
  • the (b) fatty phase may be present from 10.0 to 65.0 %, preferably from 15.0 to 60.0 %, more preferably from 25.0 to 55.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the foam aerosol cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • the foam aerosol cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises, as a surfactant, at least one (c) fatty acid ester having C 12- i chain as an acid moiety and having at 25°C an HLB value of 7.5 to 10.0, preferably from 7.5 to 9.5 and more preferably from 7.5 to 9.0.
  • HLB value also known as HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance)
  • Mh is the molecular mass of the hydrophilic portion of the Molecule, and M is the molecular mass of the whole molecule.
  • the (c) fatty acid ester is preferably an ester of formula (I)
  • R is CI M S straight or branched alkyl, and R is polyglyceryl moiety or dehydrated sugar alcohol moiety.
  • Cn -15 straight or branched alkyl may be n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tridecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-pentadecyl, isoundecyl, isodedecyl, isotridecyl, isotetradecyl, isopentadecyl, and so on.
  • Polyglyceryl moiety may be diglyceryl, triglyceryl, tetraglyceryl, pentaglyceryl, hexaglyceryl group, preferably diglyceryl, triglyceryl or tetraglyceryl.
  • Dehydrated sugar alcohol moiety is preferably sorbitan moiety.
  • Examples of the (c) fatty acid esters include diglyceryl myristate, diglyceryl laurate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan myristate. Of these, preferred are diglyceryl myristate, sorbitan laurate, and diglyceryl laurate, more preferred are diglyceryl myristate and sorbitan laurate, furthermore preferred is diglyceryl myristate.
  • the polyglycerol of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester includes, but not particularly limited thereto, for instance, glycerol polymers such as diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol and decaglycerol.
  • the polyglycerol is preferably diglycerol and triglycerol, from the viewpoint of improving stability of the foam.
  • the polyglycerol fatty acid esters are preferably a diglycerol fatty acid ester and a triglycerol fatty acid ester.
  • the fatty acid of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is not particularly limited.
  • the fatty acid a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and a hydroxy-compound thereof are preferred, and a fatty acid having 14 to 18 carbon atoms is more preferred, from the viewpoint of improving stability of the foam.
  • polyglycerol fatty acid ester there can be preferably used, for instance, diglyceryl myristate, diglyceryl laurate, diglyceryl palmitate, diglyceryl stearate, triglyceryl myristate, triglyceryl palmitate, triglyceryl stearate, and the like, preferably diglyceryl myristate and triglyceryl myristate.
  • polyglyceryl-2-myristate as distributed by TAIYO KAGAKU under the commercial name SUNSOFT Q- 14D-C..
  • each of the polyglycerol fatty acid esters can be used alone or in admixture of at least two kinds.
  • the polyglycerol fatty acid ester may be a mixture of the polyglycerol fatty acid esters having a given esterification degree.
  • the degree of esterification is not particularly limited.
  • the monoester content is preferably 50 percent by weight or more, more preferably 70 percent by weight or more from the viewpoint of improving wash-up property and stability of the foam.
  • the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is obtained by, for instance, carrying out esterification reaction of a polyglycerol with a fatty acid with heating in the presence of an inert gas such as nitrogen gas in accordance with a known method, and further subjecting the resulting product to distillation and purification as desired, without being limited to this process.
  • the content of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester in the foam aerosol cosmetic composition of the present invention is not particularly limited.
  • the content of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is preferably from 0.01 to 50.0 % by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 30.0 % by weight, still more preferably from 0.1 to 20.0 % by weight, especially preferably from 1 to 20.0 % by weight of total weight of (b) fatty phase, which is the constituent of the present invention.
  • the (c) fatty acid ester having C 12- i 6 chain as an acid moiety and having an HLB value of 7.5 to 10.0 can be present in an amount in the range of from 0.1 to 10.0 %, preferably 1.0 to 8.0 %, more preferably 2.0 to 7.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the foam aerosol cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • the foam aerosol cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise a w/o surfactant as a coemulsifier.
  • w/o surfactants include fatty acid esters, such as hexaglyceryl polyricinoleate, glyceryl stearate, acetylated ethylene glycol stearate, diglyceryl isostearyl succinate, and sorbitan stearate; dimethicone copolyol or alkyldimethicone copolyol silicone surfactants, e.g., Abil EM 90 (trademark) and Abil WE 90 (trademark) commercially available from Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH; and DC 3225C (trademark) and DC 5200 (trademark) commercially available from Dow Corning Corporation. Of these, preferred is hexaglyceryl polyricinoleate.
  • the w/o surfactant can be present, in an amount in the range of from 0.5 to 10.0 %, preferably 1.0 to 8.0 %, more preferably 2.0 to 5.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the foam aerosol cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • the foam aerosol cosmetic composition according to the present invention may advantageously incorporate at least one dyestuff chosen from organic or mineral dyes, especially such as the pigments or nacres conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, liposoluble or water-soluble dyes, materials with a specific optical effect, and mixtures thereof.
  • at least one dyestuff chosen from organic or mineral dyes, especially such as the pigments or nacres conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, liposoluble or water-soluble dyes, materials with a specific optical effect, and mixtures thereof.
  • pigments should be understood to mean white or colored, inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in an aqueous solution and are intended for coloring and/or opacifying the resulting film.
  • the pigments may be present in an amount of from 0.1 to 40.0 %, especially from 1.0 to 30.0 % and in particular from 5.0 to 15.0 % by weight based on the total weight of the foam aerosol cosmetic composition.
  • inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxides, zirconium oxides or cerium oxides, and also zinc oxides, iron oxides or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.
  • the mineral pigments will be chosen from iron oxides and titanium oxides, and mixtures thereof.
  • a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30.
  • the colorant may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of the type such as silica microspheres containing iron oxide.
  • a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being constituted of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
  • organic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, or alternatively the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in documents EP 542 669, EP 787 730, EP 787 731 and WO 96/08537.
  • DPP diketopyrrolopyrroles
  • nacres should be understood as meaning iridescent or non-iridescent coloured particles of any form, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell or alternatively synthesized, which have a colour effect via optical interference.
  • the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
  • nacres examples include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres, sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres, sold by the company Sun Chemical.
  • the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
  • nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of gold-coloured nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown-tinted nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the names Nuantique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the bronze n
  • the foam aerosol cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes.
  • the liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 1 1, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.
  • the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.
  • the foam aerosol cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.
  • This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect as produced by standard dyestuffs, for instance monochromatic , .
  • the term "stabilized" means lacking an effect of variability of the color as a function of the angle of observation or alternatively in response to a temperature change.
  • this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibers, especially interference fibers. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined so as to afford the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even of a novel effect in accordance with the invention.
  • the particles with a metallic tint that may be used in the invention are chosen in particular from:
  • particles of at least one metal and/or of at least one metal derivative particles comprising a single-material or multi-material organic or inorganic substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer with a metallic glint comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and
  • metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof.
  • Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof are preferred metals.
  • metal derivatives is intended to denote compounds derived from metals, especially oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.
  • They may also be particles comprising a glass substrate, for instance those sold by the company Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Microglass Metashine.
  • the goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal coloring agents.
  • symmetrical multilayer interference structures that may be used in the compositions prepared in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al/Si0 2 /Al/Si0 2 /Al, pigments having this structure being sold by the company DuPont de Nemours; Cr/MgF 2 /Al/MgF 2 /Cr, pigments having this structure being sold under the name Chromaflair by the company Flex; MoS 2 /Si0 2 /Al/Si0 2 /MoS 2 ; Fe 2 0 3 /Si0 2 /Al/Si0 2 /Fe 2 0 3, and
  • these pigments may be the pigments of silica/titanium oxide/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the pigments of silica/brown iron oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Indian Summer by the company Merck and the pigments of silica/titanium oxide/mica/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Caribbean Blue by the company Merck. Mention may also be made of the Infinite Colors pigments from the company Shiseido. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the various coats, different effects are obtained.
  • the colour changes from greenish gold to reddish grey for Si0 2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for Si0 2 layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for Si0 2 layers of 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for Si0 2 layers of 430 to 440 nm.
  • pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure examples include those sold by the company 3M under the name Color Glitter.
  • liquid-crystal goniochromatic particles examples include those sold by the company Chenix and also the product sold under the name Helicone HC by the company Wacker.
  • the dyestuff can be present in an amount in the range of from 0.5 to 30.0 wt%, preferably 1.0 to 20.0 wt%, more preferably 2.0 to 15.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the foam aerosol cosmetic composition.
  • the foam aerosol cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more fillers.
  • filler should be understood to mean colorless or white solid particles of any shape which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, of mineral or organic nature, can give body or rigidity to the composition and/or softness and uniformity to the makeup.
  • the fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
  • the fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.
  • mineral fillers examples include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and composites of silica and of titanium dioxide, such as the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass.
  • organic fillers examples include polyamide powders (Nylon Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene powder or polymethyl methacrylate powder, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, powders of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap from the company Dow Corning), lauroyllysine, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel (Nobel Industrie), hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearl from Toshiba), natural or synthetic micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, Polypore ® L 200 (Nylon Org
  • It may in particular be a hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactone polymer.
  • Such particles are especially commercially available, for example, under the name Plastic Powder D-400 ® or Plastic Powder D-800 ® from the company Toshiki, and mixtures thereof.
  • the filler may be present in an amount in the range of from
  • a thickener that is suitable for use in the invention may be hydrophilic, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water.
  • Hydrophilic thickeners that may be mentioned in particular include water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. These polymers may be chosen especially from: modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the name Carbopol (CTFA name: Carbomer) by the company Goodrich; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company Guardian or under the name Hispagel by the company Hispano Chimica; polyacrylamides; optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, for instance the poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, which are in the form of a W/O emulsion, such as those sold
  • a thickener that is suitable for use in the invention may be lipophilic. It may be mineral or organic.
  • lipophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from Rheox), modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with a Ci 0 to C 22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38V ® by the company Elementis or the product sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by the company Rheox, or the product sold under the name Bentone Gel V5 5 V by the company Elementis.
  • modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from Rheox)
  • modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with a Ci 0 to C 22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride,
  • the polymeric organic lipophilic thickeners are, for example, partially or completely crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, for instance those sold under the names KSG6 ® , KSG16 ® and KSG18 ® by Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C ® and Trefil E-506C ® by Dow Corning, Gransil SR-CYC ® , SR DMF10 ® , SR-DC556 ® , SR 5 CYC gel ® , SR DMF 10 gel ® and SR DC 556 gel ® by Grant Industries and SF 1204 ® and JK 113 ® by General Electric; ethyl cellulose, for instance the product sold under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between a dicarboxylic acid containing at least 32 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid dimers, and an alkylenediamine and in particular ethylened
  • Block copolymers of "diblock”, “triblock” or “radial” type, of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type such as the products sold under the name Luvitol HSB ® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) type, such as the products sold under the name raton ® by the company Shell Chemical Co., or of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) type, and mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by the company Penreco under the name Versagel , for instance the mixture of butyl ene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene/propylene/styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).
  • lipophilic thickener that may be used in a cosmetic composition of the invention
  • fatty acid esters of dextrin such as dextrin palmitates, especially such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL ® or Rheopearl KL by the company Chiba Flour
  • hydrogenated plant oils such as hydrogenated castor oil
  • fatty alcohols in particular of C 8 to C 26 and more particularly C 12 to C 22 , for instance myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol.
  • the thickener can be present in an amount in the range of from 0.01 to 40.0 %, preferably from 0.1 to 20.0 % and more preferably from 0.3 to 15.0 % by weight based on the total weight of the foam aerosol cosmetic composition.
  • the foam aerosol cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from gums, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, dispersants, semi-crystalline polymers, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, pH adjusting agents, _.
  • any additive usually used in the field under consideration chosen, for example, from gums, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, dispersants, semi-crystalline polymers, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, pH adjusting agents, _ nothing
  • these various components may be present in the composition in an amount commonly used in the corresponding field, for example, in an amount in the range of from 0.01 to 20.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the foam aerosol cosmetic composition of the present invention.
  • the base composition containing the above-mentioned components can be produced in accordance with a known method.
  • the base composition can be produced by appropriately mixing together the above-mentioned various components and, for example, dissolving them by heating to 40 to 80°C while stirring, and cooling the resultant mixture to room temperature.
  • the base composition comprises (a) an aqueous phase, (b) a fatty phase, and (c) a fatty acid ester having Ci 2- i 6 chain as an acidic moiety and having HLB value of from 7.5 to 10.0.
  • the (a) aqueous phase may be present in an amount in the range of at least 10.0 %, preferably at least 15.0 %, more preferably from 20.0 to 70.0 %, further preferably from 20.0 to 60.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the base composition.
  • the (b) fatty phase may be present from 10.0 to 65.0 %, preferably from 15.0 to 60.0 %, more preferably from 25.0 to 55.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the base composition according to the present invention.
  • the (c) fatty acid ester having C 12- i chain as an acid moiety and having an HLB value of 7.5 to 10.0 can be present in an amount in the range of from 0.1 to 10.0 %, preferably 1.0 to 8.0 %, more preferably 2.0 to 7.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the base composition according to the present invention.
  • the dyestuff can be present in an amount in the range of from 0.5 to 30 wt%, preferably 1.0 to 20.0 wt%, more preferably 2.0 to 15.0 wt%, based on the total weight of the base cosmetic composition.
  • the filler may be present in an amount in the range of from 0.1 to 15.0 %, preferably 1.0 to 12.0 %, more preferably 3.0 to 10.0 %, by weight, based on the total weight of the base cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • the foam aerosol cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be produced from a combination of the base composition and an arbitrary propellant in accordance with a known method.
  • the foam aerosol cosmetic composition can be produced by placing the base composition in an arbitrary container, and filling the container with a propellant.
  • a container for example, an aerosol can is preferably used.
  • a preferred amount of the propellant contained is 1.0 to 25.0 %, preferably 2.0 to 20.0 %, and more preferably 3.0 to 15.0 % by weight, based on the total weight of the foam aerosol cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • the air or the inert gas may represent especially from 10 to 500 % and preferably from 20 to 200 %, for example from 30 to 100 % of the volume of the composition in the foam form.
  • This volume may be calculated by comparing the density of the base composition and of the in the foam form composition.
  • gases that allow the composition in the foam form to be obtained are in particular inert gases, for example nitrogen, carbon dioxide, nitrogen oxides, noble gases or a mixture of the said gases.
  • gases for example nitrogen, carbon dioxide, nitrogen oxides, noble gases or a mixture of the said gases.
  • an oxygen-free gas such as nitrogen or carbon dioxide.
  • the base composition serving to obtain the composition in the foam form has a composition similar to the composition in the foam form except for its higher density, insofar as it is free of air or of inert gas.
  • the amount of gas introduced into the base composition contributes towards adjusting the density of the composition in the foam form to the desired value, for example less than or equal to 0.25 g/ml preferably from 0.10 to 0.22 g/ml and more preferably from 0.15 to 0.20 g/ml, this density being measured at a temperature of about 20 °C and at atmospheric pressure at a time of 30 seconds after dispensing, according to the following protocol.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic aerosol device for discharging a foam aerosol cosmetic composition, preferably in form of a w/o emulsion from an equipment through its outlet, comprising
  • a base composition comprising (a) an aqueous phase; (b) a fatty phase and (c) a fatty acid ester having Ci 2-16 chain as an acid moiety, and having an HLB value of from 7.5 to 10.0, and
  • the (i) base composition and the (ii) propellant being conditioned in a same recipient or distinct recipients connected between each other.
  • the test is performed on 50 mol of composition introduced into a 50 ml polished Plexiglas goblet (V]) defining a cylindrical filling space 30 mm high having a base with a diameter of 46 mm.
  • the goblet has a bottom wall 10 mm thick and side wall 12 mm thick.
  • the composition to be characterized and the goblet are maintained at a temperature of about 20°C.
  • the goblet is tared and the weight value (M is recorded.
  • the composition in the foam form is then introduced into the goblet so as to occupy the total volume, while avoiding the formation of air bubbles during the filling of the goblet.
  • the assembly is left to stand for 5 seconds to allow the foam composition to expand fully.
  • the top of the goblet is then skimmed before weighing (M 2 ).
  • composition in the foam form according to the invention shows satisfactory stability, which may be subjected to an evaluation based on visual evaluation in time course, for example of the fineness and stability with the following criteria of scores.
  • the foam aerosol cosmetic composition can be used as, for example, a makeup product, preferably face makeup product, such as a foundation, a makeup base or eye shadow, or a skincare cosmetic agent, such as a cleansing agent or a massage foam. It can be preferably used as a foundation.
  • the foam aerosol cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used for caring for a skin or making up keratinic materials by applying it to a skin, and therefore, the present invention relates to a method for making up keratinous materials, preferably the skin of the face, comprising the step of applying the foam aerosol cosmetic composition to skin.
  • Aqueous phase (Water) 47.5 wt%
  • the obtained cosmetic emulsion composition was charged into an aerosol can, and the aerosol can was filled with 10 g of liquefied propane (0.31 mPa), relative to 90 g of the composition, to obtain an aerosol.
  • the obtained composition was sprayed from the obtained aerosol, and the foam density and the foam stability were evaluated.
  • Fine (3) Foam density was between 0.15 and 0.20 g/ml and observed several holes Slightly rough (2): Foam density was higher than 0.20 and observed many holes. Rough (1): Failed to form a foam.
  • the state of the foam sprayed from the aerosol onto an acrylic sheet was evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.
  • Moderate (2) Formed foam at first, but the foam was apparently shrinked within less than 5 min.
  • foam was actuated in water and checked disparity in water. If the emulsion type was O/W, the emulsions were dispersed in water immediately. On the other hand, if the emulsion type was W/O, the emulsions were not dispersed.
  • the base composition having the formula shown in Table 2 was prepared, and further a container was filled with the prepared base composition and a propellant to prepare a foam cosmetic composition as an aerosol foundation.
  • Aqueous phase 33.57 wt%
  • Pulverulent phase (filler and pigment): 18.91 wt%
  • the foam stability was very good, the foam fineness was very fine, and the foam density was 0.198 g/ml.
  • the base composition having the formula shown in Table 2 was prepared in a first container, and separately a second container was filled with a propellant.
  • the first container and the second container were accommodated in a can to prepare a foam aerosol cosmetic composition as an aerosol-type foundation.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique d'aérosol en mousse, de préférence sous la forme d'une émulsion d'eau dans l'huile comprenant : (a) une phase aqueuse ; (b) une phase grasse ; et (c) un ester d'acide gras ayant une chaîne C?12-16#191 comme groupement d'acide, et ayant une valeur HLB de 7,5 à 10,0. La présente invention concerne également un dispositif d'aérosol cosmétique pour décharger une composition cosmétique d'aérosol en mousse, de préférence sous la forme d'une émulsion d'eau dans l'huile, à partir d'une sortie d'un équipement, comprenant (i) une composition de base comportant (a) une phase aqueuse ; (b) une phase grasse, et (c) un ester d'acide gras ayant une chaîne C?12-16#191 comme groupement d'acide, et ayant une valeur HLB de 7,5 à 10,0, et (ii) un propulseur pour dilater la composition de base, la (i) composition de base et le (ii) propulseur étant conditionnés dans un même récipient ou dans des récipients distincts reliés entre eux.
PCT/JP2014/066494 2013-06-18 2014-06-17 Composition cosmétique d'aérosol en mousse WO2014204008A1 (fr)

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US10835480B2 (en) 2016-04-22 2020-11-17 The Procter And Gamble Company Method of forming a silicone layer
CN107397686A (zh) * 2017-07-19 2017-11-28 广州欧慕生物科技有限公司 一种连续自发泡组合物及其应用
US11464724B2 (en) 2018-11-08 2022-10-11 The Procter & Gamble Company Low shear stress conditioner composition with spherical gel network vesicles

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