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WO2013087926A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a superabsorbent polymer and silica aerogel particles - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition comprising a superabsorbent polymer and silica aerogel particles Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013087926A1
WO2013087926A1 PCT/EP2012/075773 EP2012075773W WO2013087926A1 WO 2013087926 A1 WO2013087926 A1 WO 2013087926A1 EP 2012075773 W EP2012075773 W EP 2012075773W WO 2013087926 A1 WO2013087926 A1 WO 2013087926A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
μηη
superabsorbent polymer
weight
particles
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2012/075773
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Laure Fageon
Raluca Lorant
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication of WO2013087926A1 publication Critical patent/WO2013087926A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0279—Porous; Hollow
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008—Preparations for oily skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising a superabsorbent polymer and silica aerogel particles
  • the present application relates to a composition for topical application, comprising at least one aqueous phase, at least one fatty phase, at least one superabsorbent polymer and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for caring for or treating keratin materials.
  • a composition for topical application comprising at least one aqueous phase, at least one fatty phase, at least one superabsorbent polymer and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for caring for or treating keratin materials.
  • patent application US 2010/033 018 it is known practice from patent application US 2010/033 018 to introduce water- superabsorbent polymers into galenical forms of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion type since they give the textures advantageous sensory effects such as freshness or a reduction of tack.
  • compositions comprising an aqueous phase, a superabsorbent polymer and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles make it possible to produce advantageous sensory textures, which spread uniformly on the skin and which do not pill after application.
  • a subject of the present invention is a composition for topical application, comprising at least one aqueous phase, at least one fatty phase, at least one superabsorbent polymer and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.
  • composition of the invention is intended for topical application to the skin or the integuments, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials, such as the skin, nails, mucous membranes and keratin fibers (such as the hair or the eyelashes).
  • a physiologically acceptable medium i.e. a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials, such as the skin, nails, mucous membranes and keratin fibers (such as the hair or the eyelashes).
  • composition according to the invention has the advantage of having a very soft, non- tacky texture which feels fresh on application and is thus very pleasant to the user, while at the same time spreading uniformly on the skin and not piling after application.
  • a subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials, which consists in applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above.
  • a subject of the invention is also the use of said composition in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up bodily or facial skin, or for haircare.
  • superabsorbent polymer means a polymer that is capable in its dry form of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular of water and especially distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in the publication "Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science 8" by L. Brannon- Pappas and R. Harland, published by Elsevier, 1990.
  • polymers have a large capacity for absorbing and retaining water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the polymer particles thus engorged with aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus conserve their individualized particulate state.
  • the superabsorbent polymer may have a water-absorbing capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e. 20 g to 2000 g of absorbed water per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times and better still from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under standard temperature (25°C) and pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 100 000 Pa) conditions and for distilled water.
  • the value of the water-absorbing capacity of a polymer may be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting for 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution through a 150 ⁇ filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water.
  • the superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles.
  • the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry or nonhydrated state, an average size of less than or equal to 100 ⁇ , preferably less than or equal to 50 ⁇ , ranging for example from 10 to 100 ⁇ , preferably from 15 to 50 ⁇ , and better still from 20 to 30 ⁇ .
  • the average size of the particles corresponds to the mass-average diameter(D 50 ) measured by laser particle size analysis or another equivalent method known to those skilled in the art.
  • these particles once hydrated, swell and form soft particles which have an average size that can range from 10 ⁇ to 1000 ⁇ , preferably from 20 ⁇ to 500 ⁇ , and more preferably from 50 ⁇ to 400 ⁇ .
  • the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are in the form of spherical particles.
  • absorbent polymers chosen from:
  • the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or noncrosslinked. They are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers.
  • the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, which are preferably neutralized, and which are in particulate form.
  • the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles with an average size (or average diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of spherical particles.
  • These polymers preferably have a capacity to absorb water at 0,9 % of NaCI from 10 to 100 g/g, preferably from 20 to 80 g/g and better still from 30 to 80 g/g.
  • the superabsorbent polymer may be present in the composition of the invention in an active material content ranging, for example, from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and preferentially from 0.1 % to 3% or even 0.1 % to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Hydrophobic silica aerogels are examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels
  • Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
  • sol-gel processes are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical C0 2 . This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
  • the sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S M ) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and a size expressed as the volume- average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ , better still from 1 to 1000 ⁇ , preferably from 1 to 100 ⁇ , in particular from 1 to 30 ⁇ , more preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • S M specific surface area per unit of mass
  • D[0.5] volume- average diameter
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 ⁇ , preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • D[0.5] volume-average diameter
  • the specific surface area per unit of weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, which corresponds to International Standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
  • BET Brunauer-Emmett-Teller
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • the sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter.
  • This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S M ) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • the silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tamped density (p) ranging from 0.04 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 and preferably from 0.05 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 .
  • this density known as the tamped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol:
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume S v ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 /cm 3 , preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 /cm 3 and better still from 15 to 40 m 2 /cm 3 .
  • S v S M x p ; wherein p is the tamped density expressed in g/cm 3 and S M is the specific surface area per unit of mass expressed in m 2 /g, as defined above.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil- absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
  • the absorption capacity measured at the wet point corresponds to the amount of oil which it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • the aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably of silyl silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
  • hydrophobic silica is understood to mean any silica of which the surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl Si-Rn groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
  • silylating agents for example with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes
  • hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxyl silica).
  • hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • Aerogel TLD 201 Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1 100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may be in various galenical forms conventionally used for a topical application and in particular in the form of dispersions of the serum type, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or alternatively multiple emulsions (W/O/W or 0/W/O), microemulsions, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type.
  • the composition is in the form of an emulsion, especially an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion.
  • compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a serum, a paste or a mousse.
  • composition preferably exhibits a skin-friendly pH which generally ranges from 3 to 8 and preferably from 4.5 to 7.
  • Aqueous phase preferably exhibits a skin-friendly pH which generally ranges from 3 to 8 and preferably from 4.5 to 7.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least water.
  • the amount of aqueous phase can range from 0.1 % to 99% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 98% by weight, better still from 30% to 95% by weight and even better still from 40% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount depends on the desired galenical form of the composition.
  • the amount of water may represent all or a portion of the aqueous phase and it is generally at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 50% by weight and better still at least 60% by weight.
  • the aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent, for instance substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrophilic solvent for instance substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol
  • polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least a fatty phase.
  • the proportion of the fatty phase of the emulsion may range, for example, from 1 % to 80% by weight, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight and better still from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the nature of the fatty phase of the composition is not critical.
  • the fatty phase may thus consist of any fatty substance conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields; it in particular comprises at least one oil (fatty substance that is liquid at 25°C).
  • oils which can be used in the composition of the invention for example, of:
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene
  • - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, cucumber oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;
  • esters and ethers in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulae R a COOR b and ROR b in which R a represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R b represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2- octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octan
  • substantially linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as volatile or nonvolatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane or hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam® oil;
  • - fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol;
  • ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as oleth-12, ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20;
  • fluoro oils of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec ® PC1 and Flutec ® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1 ,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes, such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050 ® and PF 5060 ® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl, sold under the name Foralkyl ® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane, sold under the name MSX 4518 ® by the company 3M, and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane;
  • hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
  • the emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
  • the emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or 07W).
  • the emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.1 % to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • emulsifiers of dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as the lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 R by the company Goldschmidt, or the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt.
  • dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning
  • coemulsifiers may also be added thereto.
  • the coemulsifier may be chosen advantageously from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters.
  • Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, for example the polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company I CI , sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company I CI , and mixtures thereof.
  • O/W emulsions For the O/W emulsions, mention may, for example, be made, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants, and in particular esters of polyols and of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e.
  • derivatives containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated units such as the glyceryl esters of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the polyethylene glycol esters of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sorbitol esters of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; the sugar ethers of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • Glyceryl esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • CFA name glyceryl stearate
  • glyceryl ricinoleate glyceryl ricinoleate
  • Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate), and mixtures thereof.
  • polyethylene glycol stearate polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate
  • CTFA name polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate
  • CTFA name polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate
  • Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, for instance the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
  • CTFA name glyceryl stearate SE
  • fatty alcohol ethers examples include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol or of cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol).
  • ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those of CTFA name Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.
  • sugar mono- or polyalkyl esters or ethers By way of example of sugar mono- or polyalkyl esters or ethers, mention may be made of the methylglucose isostearate sold under the name Isolan-IS by the company Degussa Goldschmidt, or the sucrose distearate sold under the name Crodesta F50 by the company Croda, and the sucrose stearate sold under the name Ryoto sugar ester S 1570 by the company Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods.
  • lipoamino acids and salts thereof such as monosodium and disodium acylglutamates, for instance the monosodium stearoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft HS-1 1 PF and the disodium stearoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft HS-21 P by the company Ajinomoto.
  • compositions of the invention may contain one or more of adjuvants that are common in the cosmetic and dermatological fields: hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents and/or thickeners; moisturizers; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; free-radical scavengers; sequestrants; antioxidants; preserving agents; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-forming agents; fillers; and mixtures thereof.
  • adjuvants that are common in the cosmetic and dermatological fields: hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents and/or thickeners; moisturizers; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; free-radical scavengers; sequestrants; antioxidants; preserving agents; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-forming agents; fillers; and mixtures thereof.
  • the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration.
  • the amounts of active agents vary according to the desired objective and are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.1 % to 20%, and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • ascorbic acid By way of example of active agents, mention may be made, in a nonlimiting manner, of ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilyl ascorbate (sold by the company Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA), the potassium salt of D,L-a-tocopheryl- 2l-ascorbyl phosphate (sold by the company Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference Sepivital EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by the company Roche under the reference Stay-C 50) ; phloroglucinol ; enzymes; and mixtures thereof.
  • ascorbic acid is used according to one preferred embodiment of the invention.
  • the ascorbic acid may be of any nature. Thus, it may be of natural origin in powder form or in the form of orange juice, preferably orange juice concentrate. It may also be of synthetic origin, preferably in powder form.
  • active agents include moisturizing agents, such as protein hydrolyzates and polyols, for instance glycerol, glycols, for instance polyethylene glycols; natural extracts; anti-inflammatory agents; oligomeric proanthocyanidins; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; ohydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids, such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, of fungi, of plants, of yeasts, of bacteria; steroids; antibacterial active agents, such as 2,4,4'-
  • the products are evaluated by a beautician on half a face, on six models, having normal to combination skin, the application side being randomized. For each product, 0.30 ml is applied by the beautician, using a standardized application action. The beautician evaluates the pillability of the product during the application, and then after application and two minutes of drying, using a specific pilling action (to and fro movements with the back of the hand over the cheek).
  • Pilling is defined as the presence of particles.
  • the amount of particles may be "Small”, “Moderate” or “Large”.
  • Composition B according to the invention shows less pillability than the comparative composition A not containing any silica aerogel.
  • Composition D according to the invention shows less pillability than the comparative composition C in which the silica aerogel has been replaced with a conventional silica.
  • Preserving agent(s) 0.75 0.75 0.75 Disodium EDTA 0.15 0.15 0.15
  • Methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer (NLK 506 from
  • Composition G according to the invention shows less pillability than composition F not containing any silica aerogel.
  • the level of pilling thus obtained is equivalent to that of the comparative composition E not containing any superabsorbent polymer.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for topical application, comprising at least one aqueous phase, at least one superabsorbent polymer and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles. A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials, which consists in applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above, and also the use of this composition in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up bodily or facial skin, or for haircare. The composition according to the invention has the advantage of having a very soft, non- tacky texture which feels fresh on application and is thus very pleasant to the user, while at the same time spreading uniformly on the skin and not piling after application.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a superabsorbent polymer and silica aerogel particles
The present application relates to a composition for topical application, comprising at least one aqueous phase, at least one fatty phase, at least one superabsorbent polymer and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for caring for or treating keratin materials. In the cosmetic field, and more particularly in the field of skincare, photoprotection or makeup, it is known practice from patent application US 2010/033 018 to introduce water- superabsorbent polymers into galenical forms of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion type since they give the textures advantageous sensory effects such as freshness or a reduction of tack.
However, this type of the galenical form has the drawback of not spreading uniformly on the skin, and the presence of pulverulent material leads to a phenomenon of pilling (formation of particles) after application.
There is thus a need to make stable cosmetic compositions such as oil-in-water or water- in-oil emulsions containing a superabsorbent polymer, which apply uniformly onto the skin and do not pill after application.
The Applicant has discovered that the cosmetic compositions comprising an aqueous phase, a superabsorbent polymer and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles make it possible to produce advantageous sensory textures, which spread uniformly on the skin and which do not pill after application.
Thus, a subject of the present invention is a composition for topical application, comprising at least one aqueous phase, at least one fatty phase, at least one superabsorbent polymer and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.
As the composition of the invention is intended for topical application to the skin or the integuments, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials, such as the skin, nails, mucous membranes and keratin fibers (such as the hair or the eyelashes).
The composition according to the invention has the advantage of having a very soft, non- tacky texture which feels fresh on application and is thus very pleasant to the user, while at the same time spreading uniformly on the skin and not piling after application.
A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials, which consists in applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above. A subject of the invention is also the use of said composition in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up bodily or facial skin, or for haircare.
In the text hereinbelow, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range.
Superabsorbent polymers
The term "superabsorbent polymer" means a polymer that is capable in its dry form of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular of water and especially distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in the publication "Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science 8" by L. Brannon- Pappas and R. Harland, published by Elsevier, 1990.
These polymers have a large capacity for absorbing and retaining water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the polymer particles thus engorged with aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus conserve their individualized particulate state.
The superabsorbent polymer may have a water-absorbing capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e. 20 g to 2000 g of absorbed water per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times and better still from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under standard temperature (25°C) and pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 100 000 Pa) conditions and for distilled water.
The value of the water-absorbing capacity of a polymer may be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting for 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution through a 150 μηη filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water.
The superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry or nonhydrated state, an average size of less than or equal to 100 μηι, preferably less than or equal to 50 μηι, ranging for example from 10 to 100 μηη, preferably from 15 to 50 μηη, and better still from 20 to 30 μηι.
The average size of the particles corresponds to the mass-average diameter(D50) measured by laser particle size analysis or another equivalent method known to those skilled in the art.
These particles, once hydrated, swell and form soft particles which have an average size that can range from 10 μηη to 1000 μηη, preferably from 20 μηη to 500 μηη, and more preferably from 50 μηη to 400 μηη. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are in the form of spherical particles.
Mention may be made especially of absorbent polymers chosen from:
- crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, for instance those sold under the brand names Octacare X100, X1 10 and RM100 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by the company SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1 1 10 by the company BASF, those sold under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (I NCI name: Acrylamide/Sodium acrylate copolymer) by the company Grain Processing, or else Aquakeep® 10 SH NF proposed by the company Sumitomo Seika,
- starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and in particular with sodium polyacrylate, such as those sold under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by the company Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25 or Makimousse 12 by the company Daito Kasei (I NCI name: Sodium polyacrylate starch),
- hydrolyzed starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and especially acryloacrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer, such as those sold under the names Water Lock A-240, A-180, B-204, D-223, A-100, C-200 and D-223 by the company Grain Processing (I NCI name: Starch/acrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer),
- polymers based on starch, gum and cellulose derivative, such as the product containing starch, guar gum and sodium carboxymethylcellulose, sold under the name Lysorb 220 by the company Lysac,
- and mixtures thereof.
The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or noncrosslinked. They are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers.
The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, which are preferably neutralized, and which are in particulate form.
Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles with an average size (or average diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of spherical particles. These polymers preferably have a capacity to absorb water at 0,9 % of NaCI from 10 to 100 g/g, preferably from 20 to 80 g/g and better still from 30 to 80 g/g.
The superabsorbent polymer may be present in the composition of the invention in an active material content ranging, for example, from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and preferentially from 0.1 % to 3% or even 0.1 % to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophobic silica aerogels
Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical C02. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.
The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2/g and better still from 600 to 800 m2/g, and a size expressed as the volume- average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μηη, better still from 1 to 1000 μηη, preferably from 1 to 100 μηη, in particular from 1 to 30 μηη, more preferably from 5 to 25 μηη, better still from 5 to 20 μηη and even better still from 5 to 15 μηη.
According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 μηη, preferably from 5 to 25 μηη, better still from 5 to 20 μηη and even better still from 5 to 15 μηη.
The specific surface area per unit of weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, which corresponds to International Standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
The sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μηη and even better still from 5 to 15 μηη. The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tamped density (p) ranging from 0.04 g/cm3 to 0.10 g/cm3 and preferably from 0.05 g/cm3 to 0.08 g/cm3.
In the context of the present invention, this density, known as the tamped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol:
40 g of powder are poured into a graduated measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on the Stav 2003 device from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is subsequently subjected to a series of 2500 tamping actions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The tamped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g).
According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume Sv ranging from 5 to 60 m2/cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2/cm3 and better still from 15 to 40 m2/cm3.
The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the relationship: Sv = SM x p ; wherein p is the tamped density expressed in g/cm3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit of mass expressed in m2/g, as defined above.
Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil- absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
The absorption capacity measured at the wet point, denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil which it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
It is measured according to the "wet point" method or method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in Standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measurement of the wet point, described below:
An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is carried out using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until conglomerates of oil and powder have formed. From this point, the oil is added at the rate of one drop at a time and the mixture is subsequently triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread over the glass plate without cracks or the formation of lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/w.
The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably of silyl silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
The term "hydrophobic silica" is understood to mean any silica of which the surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl Si-Rn groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7 470 725.
Use will be made in particular of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxyl silica).
As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g.
Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1 100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
Use will be made more particularly of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g.
The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may be in various galenical forms conventionally used for a topical application and in particular in the form of dispersions of the serum type, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or alternatively multiple emulsions (W/O/W or 0/W/O), microemulsions, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion, especially an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion.
In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a serum, a paste or a mousse.
The composition preferably exhibits a skin-friendly pH which generally ranges from 3 to 8 and preferably from 4.5 to 7. Aqueous phase
The aqueous phase of the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least water. According to the galenical form of the composition, the amount of aqueous phase can range from 0.1 % to 99% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 98% by weight, better still from 30% to 95% by weight and even better still from 40% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount depends on the desired galenical form of the composition. The amount of water may represent all or a portion of the aqueous phase and it is generally at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 50% by weight and better still at least 60% by weight. The aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent, for instance substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof. Fatty phase
The composition according to the invention comprises at least a fatty phase. The proportion of the fatty phase of the emulsion may range, for example, from 1 % to 80% by weight, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight and better still from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The nature of the fatty phase of the composition is not critical. The fatty phase may thus consist of any fatty substance conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields; it in particular comprises at least one oil (fatty substance that is liquid at 25°C).
Mention may be made, as oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, for example, of:
- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, cucumber oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;
- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulae RaCOORb and RORb in which Ra represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and Rb represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2- octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;
- substantially linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or nonvolatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane or hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam® oil;
- fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol;
- alkoxylated and in particular ethoxylated fatty alcohols, such as oleth-12, ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20;
- partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based fluoro oils, such as those described in the document JP-A-2-295 912. Mention may also be made, as fluoro oils, of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1 ,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes, such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl, sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane, sold under the name MSX 4518® by the company 3M, and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; or perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4- (trifluoromethyl)perfluoromorpholine, sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M; - silicone oils, such as volatile or nonvolatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) comprising a substantially linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones), such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes, (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;
- mixtures thereof.
In the list of the abovementioned oils, the term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or 07W).
The emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.1 % to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
For the W/O emulsions, mention may, for example, be made, as emulsifiers, of dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as the lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt, or the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers may also be added thereto. The coemulsifier may be chosen advantageously from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters. Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, for example the polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company I CI , sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company I CI , and mixtures thereof.
For the O/W emulsions, mention may, for example, be made, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants, and in particular esters of polyols and of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e. derivatives containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated units, such as the glyceryl esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the polyethylene glycol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; the sugar ethers of C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
Glyceryl esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate), and mixtures thereof.
Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, for instance the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
Examples of fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol or of cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol). Examples that may be mentioned include ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those of CTFA name Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.
By way of example of sugar mono- or polyalkyl esters or ethers, mention may be made of the methylglucose isostearate sold under the name Isolan-IS by the company Degussa Goldschmidt, or the sucrose distearate sold under the name Crodesta F50 by the company Croda, and the sucrose stearate sold under the name Ryoto sugar ester S 1570 by the company Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods.
Mention may also be made of lipoamino acids and salts thereof, such as monosodium and disodium acylglutamates, for instance the monosodium stearoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft HS-1 1 PF and the disodium stearoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft HS-21 P by the company Ajinomoto. In a known manner, all the compositions of the invention may contain one or more of adjuvants that are common in the cosmetic and dermatological fields: hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents and/or thickeners; moisturizers; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; free-radical scavengers; sequestrants; antioxidants; preserving agents; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-forming agents; fillers; and mixtures thereof.
The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, the amounts of active agents vary according to the desired objective and are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.1 % to 20%, and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Active agents
By way of example of active agents, mention may be made, in a nonlimiting manner, of ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilyl ascorbate (sold by the company Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA), the potassium salt of D,L-a-tocopheryl- 2l-ascorbyl phosphate (sold by the company Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference Sepivital EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by the company Roche under the reference Stay-C 50) ; phloroglucinol ; enzymes; and mixtures thereof. Among the oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active agents, ascorbic acid is used according to one preferred embodiment of the invention. The ascorbic acid may be of any nature. Thus, it may be of natural origin in powder form or in the form of orange juice, preferably orange juice concentrate. It may also be of synthetic origin, preferably in powder form.
As other active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include moisturizing agents, such as protein hydrolyzates and polyols, for instance glycerol, glycols, for instance polyethylene glycols; natural extracts; anti-inflammatory agents; oligomeric proanthocyanidins; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; ohydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids, such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, of fungi, of plants, of yeasts, of bacteria; steroids; antibacterial active agents, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids indicated above, and in particular salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; matting agents, for instance fibers; tensioning agents; UV-screening agents; and mixtures thereof.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisioned addition.
The examples that follow will allow the invention to be understood more clearly, without, however, being limiting in nature. The amounts indicated are given as weight percentages of active material, unless otherwise mentioned. The names of the compounds are indicated as INCI names.
EXAMPLES
The pillability of each of the following compositions is evaluated according to the following protocol.
The products are evaluated by a beautician on half a face, on six models, having normal to combination skin, the application side being randomized. For each product, 0.30 ml is applied by the beautician, using a standardized application action. The beautician evaluates the pillability of the product during the application, and then after application and two minutes of drying, using a specific pilling action (to and fro movements with the back of the hand over the cheek).
Pilling is defined as the presence of particles. The amount of particles may be "Small", "Moderate" or "Large".
Examples 1 and 2: Moisturizing cream-gels
The following compositions were prepared.
A B*
Water qs 100 g qs 100 g
Glycerol 15 15
Propanediol 5 5
Inulin lauryl carbamate
0.2 0.2
(Inutec SP1 from Beneo Bio Based Chemicals)
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 Preserving agent(s) 0.7 0.7
Sodium acrylates crosspolymer-2 (and) water (and) silica
0.8 0.8
(Aquakeep 10SH NF from Sumimoto Seika)
Sodium polyacrylate
0.4 0.4
(Cosmedia SP from Cognis)
Dimethicone 5 cSt 10 10
Silica Silylate
- 0.5
(Aerogel VM2270 from Dow Corning)
Denatured alcohol 7 7
* Composition according to the invention
Figure imgf000014_0001
Composition B according to the invention shows less pillability than the comparative composition A not containing any silica aerogel.
Examples 3 and 4: O/W creams for greasy skin
The following compositions were prepared.
C D*
Behenyl alcohol (and) glyceryl stearate (and) disodium
ethylene dicocamide PEG-15 disulfate (and) glyceryl stearate
2 2
citrate
(Ceralution H from Sasol)
Cetyl alcohol 0.5 0.5
Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 5 5
Hydrogenated polyisobutene 4 4
Preserving agent(s) 1 1 Glycerol 7 7
Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1
Water qs 100 g qs 100 g
Lipophilic thickener(s) 2 2
Sodium acrylates crosspolymer-2 (and) water (and) silica
0.8 0.8
(Aquakeep 10SH NF from Sumimoto Seika)
Silica
0.5 -
(SB 700 Miyoshi Kasei)
Silica Silylate
- 0.5
(Aerogel VM2270 from Dow Corning)
Allyl methacrylates crosspolymer
2 2
(Polypore E 200 from Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions)
* Composition according to the invention
Figure imgf000015_0001
Composition D according to the invention shows less pillability than the comparative composition C in which the silica aerogel has been replaced with a conventional silica.
Examples 5, 6 and 7: Antiaging W/O creams
The following compositions were prepared.
E F G*
Emulsifier(s) 2 2 2
Lipophilic thickener(s) 1 1 1
Apricot kernel oil 5 5 5
Cyclohexasiloxane 8 8 8
Isohexadecane 10.5 10.5 10.5
Preserving agent(s) 0.75 0.75 0.75 Disodium EDTA 0.15 0.15 0.15
Sodium acrylates crosspolymer-2 (and) water (and)
silica - 0.5 0.5
(Aquakeep 10SH NF from Sumimoto Seika)
Sodium polyacrylate (Cosmedia SP from Cognis) 0.5 - -
Water qs 100 g qs 100 g qs 100 g
Glycerol 7 7 7
Methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer (NLK 506 from
3 3 3
Takemoto Oil & Fat)
Silica Silylate
- - 0.3
(Aerogel VM2270 from Dow Corning)
Figure imgf000016_0001
Composition G according to the invention shows less pillability than composition F not containing any silica aerogel. The level of pilling thus obtained is equivalent to that of the comparative composition E not containing any superabsorbent polymer.

Claims

1 . A composition for topical application, comprising at least one aqueous phase, at least one fatty phase, at least one superabsorbent polymer and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles with a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2/g and better still from 600 to 800 m2/g, and a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 μηη, preferably from 1 to 1000 μηη, even more preferentially from 1 to 100 μηη, in particular from 1 to 30 μηη, more preferably from 5 to 25 μηη, better still from 5 to 20 μηη and even better still from 5 ίο 15 μηι.
2. The composition as claimed in claim 1 , in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) are, in dry form, in the form of particles with a mass-average size of less than or equal to 100 μηη and preferably less than or equal to 50 μηι.
3. The composition as claimed in either one of claims 1 and 2, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) are, once hydrated, in the form of particles with a mass- average size ranging from 10 μηη to 1000 μηη, preferably from 20 μηη to 500 μηη, and more preferably from 50 μηη to 400 μηη.
4. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) have a capacity to absorb water at 0,9 % of NaCI from 10 to 100 g/g, preferably from 20 to 80 g/g and better still from 30 to 80 g/g.
5. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) are chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, hydrolyzed starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and especially the acryloacrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer, and polymers based on starch, on gum and on cellulose derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
6. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) are chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, which have preferably been neutralized.
7. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) are chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates.
8. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) are in the form of spherical particles.
9. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) are present in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.1 % to 3%, or even from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 9, in which the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface per unit of volume Sv ranging from 5 to 60 m2/cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2/cm3 and better still from 15 to 40 m2/cm3 and/or an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g of particles, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
1 1. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 10, in which the aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica are trimethylsiloxylated silica particles.
12. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 1 1 , in which the silica aerogel particles are present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. A cosmetic treatment process for a keratin material, in which a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 12 is applied to the keratin material.
14. The use of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12, in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up bodily or facial skin, or for haircare.
PCT/EP2012/075773 2011-12-16 2012-12-17 Cosmetic composition comprising a superabsorbent polymer and silica aerogel particles WO2013087926A1 (en)

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WO2021130677A1 (en) * 2019-12-27 2021-07-01 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Composition with superabsorbent polymer
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