WO2011128309A1 - Composition et procédé de traitement utilisant des particules de pierre ponce - Google Patents
Composition et procédé de traitement utilisant des particules de pierre ponce Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2011128309A1 WO2011128309A1 PCT/EP2011/055655 EP2011055655W WO2011128309A1 WO 2011128309 A1 WO2011128309 A1 WO 2011128309A1 EP 2011055655 W EP2011055655 W EP 2011055655W WO 2011128309 A1 WO2011128309 A1 WO 2011128309A1
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- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- keratin fibres
- hair
- groups
- chosen
- Prior art date
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- CBTVGIZVANVGBH-UHFFFAOYSA-N aminomethyl propanol Chemical class CC(C)(N)CO CBTVGIZVANVGBH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920013822 aminosilicone Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000005840 aryl radicals Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000004104 aryloxy group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000002610 basifying agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- YSJGOMATDFSEED-UHFFFAOYSA-M behentrimonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C YSJGOMATDFSEED-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 235000019445 benzyl alcohol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001680 brushing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- WERYXYBDKMZEQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N butane-1,4-diol Chemical compound OCCCCO WERYXYBDKMZEQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- STIAPHVBRDNOAJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N carbamimidoylazanium;carbonate Chemical compound NC(N)=N.NC(N)=N.OC(O)=O STIAPHVBRDNOAJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002057 carboxymethyl group Chemical group [H]OC(=O)C([H])([H])[*] 0.000 description 1
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000015556 catabolic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000004534 cecum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- RLGQACBPNDBWTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N cetyltrimethylammonium ion Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C RLGQACBPNDBWTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003153 chemical reaction reagent Substances 0.000 description 1
- XENVCRGQTABGKY-ZHACJKMWSA-N chlorohydrin Chemical compound CC#CC#CC#CC#C\C=C\C(Cl)CO XENVCRGQTABGKY-ZHACJKMWSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940047648 cocoamphodiacetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000012141 concentrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 1
- XUJNEKJLAYXESH-UHFFFAOYSA-N cysteine Natural products SCC(N)C(O)=O XUJNEKJLAYXESH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000018417 cysteine Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000007872 degassing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000006731 degradation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001419 dependent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000008050 dialkyl sulfates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000005690 diesters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- DENRZWYUOJLTMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethyl sulfate Chemical compound CCOS(=O)(=O)OCC DENRZWYUOJLTMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940008406 diethyl sulfate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XXJWXESWEXIICW-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol monoethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCCOCCO XXJWXESWEXIICW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LVTYICIALWPMFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N diisopropanolamine Chemical compound CC(O)CNCC(C)O LVTYICIALWPMFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000010790 dilution Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012895 dilution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000000118 dimethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N dipropylene glycol Chemical compound OCCCOCCCO SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940047642 disodium cocoamphodiacetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940079857 disodium cocoamphodipropionate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940079881 disodium lauroamphodiacetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- ZPRZNBBBOYYGJI-UHFFFAOYSA-L disodium;2-[1-[2-(carboxylatomethoxy)ethyl]-2-undecyl-4,5-dihydroimidazol-1-ium-1-yl]acetate;hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+].[Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCC1=NCC[N+]1(CCOCC([O-])=O)CC([O-])=O ZPRZNBBBOYYGJI-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- WSJWDSLADWXTMK-UHFFFAOYSA-L disodium;2-[2-(carboxylatomethoxy)ethyl-[2-(octanoylamino)ethyl]amino]acetate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].CCCCCCCC(=O)NCCN(CC([O-])=O)CCOCC([O-])=O WSJWDSLADWXTMK-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- HQYLVDYBSIUTBB-UHFFFAOYSA-L disodium;3-[2-(2-carboxylatoethoxy)ethyl-[2-(dodecanoylamino)ethyl]amino]propanoate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCN(CCC([O-])=O)CCOCCC([O-])=O HQYLVDYBSIUTBB-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- GEGKMYLSPGGTQM-UHFFFAOYSA-L disodium;3-[2-(2-carboxylatoethoxy)ethyl-[2-(octanoylamino)ethyl]amino]propanoate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].CCCCCCCC(=O)NCCN(CCC([O-])=O)CCOCCC([O-])=O GEGKMYLSPGGTQM-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- KJDVLQDNIBGVMR-UHFFFAOYSA-L disodium;3-[2-aminoethyl-[2-(2-carboxylatoethoxy)ethyl]amino]propanoate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)CCN(CCN)CCOCCC([O-])=O KJDVLQDNIBGVMR-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- UCYFZDNMZYZSPN-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosyl(trimethyl)azanium Chemical class CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C UCYFZDNMZYZSPN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000002194 fatty esters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000002195 fatty ethers Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229920005570 flexible polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012634 fragment Substances 0.000 description 1
- ZZUFCTLCJUWOSV-UHFFFAOYSA-N furosemide Chemical compound C1=C(Cl)C(S(=O)(=O)N)=CC(C(O)=O)=C1NCC1=CC=CO1 ZZUFCTLCJUWOSV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 description 1
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000001033 granulometry Methods 0.000 description 1
- 208000024963 hair loss Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 230000003676 hair loss Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000003187 heptyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-M hexadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- FDVKPDVESAUTEE-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexane-1,6-diol;2-methylpentane-2,4-diol Chemical compound CC(O)CC(C)(C)O.OCCCCCCO FDVKPDVESAUTEE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XMBWDFGMSWQBCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydrogen iodide Chemical compound I XMBWDFGMSWQBCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000001261 hydroxy acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000002768 hydroxyalkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- MTNDZQHUAFNZQY-UHFFFAOYSA-N imidazoline Chemical compound C1CN=CN1 MTNDZQHUAFNZQY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000002462 imidazolines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000006872 improvement Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 230000002045 lasting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000944 linseed oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000021388 linseed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000314 lubricant Substances 0.000 description 1
- VUQUOGPMUUJORT-UHFFFAOYSA-N methyl 4-methylbenzenesulfonate Chemical compound COS(=O)(=O)C1=CC=C(C)C=C1 VUQUOGPMUUJORT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000004702 methyl esters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- MBABOKRGFJTBAE-UHFFFAOYSA-N methyl methanesulfonate Chemical compound COS(C)(=O)=O MBABOKRGFJTBAE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001333 moisturizer Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000877 morphologic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940105132 myristate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- INJVFBCDVXYHGQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N n'-(3-triethoxysilylpropyl)ethane-1,2-diamine Chemical compound CCO[Si](OCC)(OCC)CCCNCCN INJVFBCDVXYHGQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- HZGIOLNCNORPKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N n,n'-bis(3-trimethoxysilylpropyl)ethane-1,2-diamine Chemical compound CO[Si](OC)(OC)CCCNCCNCCC[Si](OC)(OC)OC HZGIOLNCNORPKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000001971 neopentyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C(C([H])([H])[H])(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000001400 nonyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-M octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 150000007524 organic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000001282 organosilanes Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000012188 paraffin wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940083254 peripheral vasodilators imidazoline derivative Drugs 0.000 description 1
- JRKICGRDRMAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-L peroxydisulfate Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)(=O)OOS([O-])(=O)=O JRKICGRDRMAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 125000000286 phenylethyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(C([H])=C1[H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- IZCXEXNXJRMUKJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N phosphanylmethanetriol Chemical compound OC(O)(O)P IZCXEXNXJRMUKJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000006068 polycondensation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920000570 polyether Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000008389 polyethoxylated castor oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- XAEFZNCEHLXOMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M potassium benzoate Chemical compound [K+].[O-]C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 XAEFZNCEHLXOMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 230000002335 preservative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000018102 proteins Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 238000005956 quaternization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003014 reinforcing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002040 relaxant effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229930195734 saturated hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000003352 sequestering agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000004756 silanes Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010703 silicon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 159000000000 sodium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003890 succinate salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 1
- BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M sulfonate Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)=O BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 150000003467 sulfuric acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-M toluene-4-sulfonate Chemical compound CC1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 238000005809 transesterification reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000005208 trialkylammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 150000005691 triesters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris Chemical class OCC(N)(CO)CO LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960004418 trolamine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000002948 undecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229930195735 unsaturated hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/965—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of inanimate origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
- A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/884—Sequential application
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a composition and a process for treating keratin fibres .
- Keratin fibres may suffer attack of diverse origins, for instance mechanical attack, such as disentangling or brushing, or chemical attack, such as dyeing, bleaching or permanent-waving processes.
- attack modifies the mechanical, morphological and physicochemical properties of the surface of keratin fibres.
- the cuticle the outer layer of the hair, which has a scaly structure, is the part most easily affected by attack.
- the scales are raised and the edges of the scales, which are normally regular, become indented.
- the cosmetic effects provided by a haircare treatment are dependent on the surface properties of the fibre .
- a means has been sought for many years for depositing or effecting the penetration of care active agents uniformly onto and into the fibre and for making these deposits remanent with respect to shampoo washing several times.
- compositions, processes and kits that enable long-lasting treatment of keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres, and especially the hair, in particular hair that is damaged at the surface.
- the invention is directed, inter alia, towards satisfying this need, and it achieves it by means of a process for treating keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair, using a composition comprising at least specific pumice particles and one or more alkoxysilanes.
- a first subj ect of the invention is thus a cosmetic composition comprising :
- o f pumice particles with a mean vo lume diameter o f between 100 and 500 ⁇ , and
- a second subj ect of the invention is a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair, comprising the following steps :
- composition A comprising more than 1 0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, o f pumice particles with a mean vo lume diameter o f between 100 and 500 ⁇ , and
- a cosmetic composition B comprising one or more alkoxysilanes .
- the invention relates to kits and to a use of the said composition.
- the treatment o f keratin fibres such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair
- a composition in accordance with the invention or the process according to the invention makes it possible to care for the keratin fibre homogeneously without impairing it, by unifying the deposition of the treating agents.
- Excellent smoothing of keratin fibres and controlled vo lume o f the hairstyle are thus obtained.
- the hair has greater texture and body.
- the composition according to the invention and the process give fine hair mass and vo lume control. The effects are all the more noteworthy when the hair is sensitized.
- composition according to the invention shows very good working qualities, i.e . it is easy to apply and to rinse out. Finally, after rinsing, it leaves the hair feeling very so ft.
- the process may also advantageously be used for smoothing keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair.
- the invention may also make it possible to prepare keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair for a hair post-treatment such as the application of a conditioner, a dye, a permanent waving product, a hair-relaxing product, a bleaching product or the like.
- a hair post-treatment such as the application of a conditioner, a dye, a permanent waving product, a hair-relaxing product, a bleaching product or the like.
- the treatment of the keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair, that is performed using the invention may be more or less pronounced, as a function o f the initial state of the hair and/or of the desired result.
- This treatment may especially have the effect of including a removal o f heterogeneities present at the surface o f the hair, especially via an action that may be termed abrasive, and, as a result, homogenizing the outer surface of the hair.
- This type of abrasion may be relatively mild and/or short- lasting, so as to avoid damaging the hair, for example during subsequent treatment or mechanical stresses such as styling.
- the keratin fibres and especially the hair may be visibly smoother and the effect of the treatment is long- lasting.
- the hair may be freed o f any deposits present on its surface before the abrasion, and the edges o f the scales of the cuticle may be made more regular, which allows increased efficacy of the alkoxysilane.
- products intended for reinforcing certain properties of the hair or for modifying its appearance can penetrate more easily and deeply into the hair thus treated.
- composition according to the invention comprises more than 10 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, o f pumice particles with a mean vo lume diameter of between 100 and 500 ⁇ ,
- Pumice is o f vo lcanic origin. It is formed at temperatures from about 500 to 600° C from lava proj ected into the air, which cools on falling, and whose degassing leads to the formation of bubbles, leading to a low density and high porosity.
- Pumice is formed from fragments of rhyolite, dacite or andesite. It is considered as a glass since it does not have a crystalline structure.
- Pumice particles are abrasive so lid particles .
- they may have a hardness of greater than or equal to that of the hair, especially ranging from 3 to 10 Moh, or even greater than or equal to 4 and ranging up to 10, for example greater than or equal to 5 and ranging up to 10, and in particular ranging from 5 to 5.5 on the Mo h scale .
- the pumice particles preferably have a lower mean vo lume diameter of less than or equal to 300 ⁇ , for example between 105 and 300 ⁇ . According to the range of particles used, the mean vo lume diameter may be determined by using screens or by laser granulometry.
- the composition according to the invention preferably comprises pumice particles in a content ranging from 12% to 35 % by weight, especially from 12% to 30% by weight and in particular from 12% to 25 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the alkoxysilanes present in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from organosilanes comprising one, two or three silicon atoms, preferably one or two silicon atoms.
- the alkoxysilanes present in the composition according to the invention may comprise two or more hydrolysable or hydroxyl groups per mo lecule.
- the hydro lysable groups are preferably alkoxy, aryloxy or halogen groups . They may optionally comprise other chemical functions, such as salified or non-salified amine, salified or non- salified carboxylic acid, salified or non-salified sulfonic acid, salified or non-salified phosphoric acid, salified or non-salified sulfuric acid, and aldehyde, po lyalcoho l or polyether functions.
- the alkoxysilanes of the invention comprise one or more amine functions.
- the alkoxysilane present in the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amine functions, they are preferably primary amines (-NH2) and/or secondary amines (-NHR).
- the alkoxysilane(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from the compounds of formula (I):
- R 4 represents a halogen or a group OR a or Ri a ;
- R 5 represents a halogen or a group ORb or R 2a ;
- R 6 represents a halogen or a group OR c or R 3a ;
- Ri and R 2 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, optionally substituted with an amine function, which itself may bear a substitution with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, possibly bearing an amine function, preferably Ri or R 2 necessarily denoting a hydrogen atom,
- R 3 , R a , Rb, R c , Ria, R 2a , R 3a represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon- based group, optionally bearing additional chemical groups such as acid or amine groups, R a , Rb and R c also possibly denoting hydrogen, and at least two of the groups R 4 , R 5 and R 6 being different from the groups Ria, R 2a and R 3a .
- the groups Ri, R 2 , R a , Ri a , R 2a , R 3a , Rb and R c are chosen from Ci-Ci 2 alkyl, C 5 to C 14 aryl, (Ci-Cs)alkyl(C5 to Ci 4 )aryl and (C 5 -Ci 4 )aryl(Ci to C 8 )alkyl.
- the group R 3 is chosen from Ci-Ci 2 alkylene, optionally substituted with an amino group, C 5 -Ci 4 arylene, (Ci- C8)alkylene(C 5 -Ci4)arylene and (C 5 -Ci4)arylene(Ci-Cs)alkylene radicals.
- the alkoxysilane(s) corresponding to formula (I) are preferably 3- aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropylltriethoxysilane and 3-(2- aminoethylamino)propylmethyldiethoxysilane.
- alkoxysilane(s) used according to the invention are chosen from the compounds of formula (II):
- R 2 i, R 22 , R 2 i a and R 22a represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more groups chosen from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups,
- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 3
- y 3-x
- xa is an integer ranging from 1 to 3
- ya 3-xa
- p 0 or 1
- pa 0 or 1
- pb 0 or 1
- q 0 or 1
- qa 0 or 1
- B, B a and B b each independently represent a linear or branched divalent Ci-C 2 o alkylene radical.
- R 23 and R 23a each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether, Ci-C 2 o alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, C 6 -C 3 o aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally substituted with one or more C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups.
- R23 and R 2 3a represent a hydrogen atom.
- R 2 i, R22, R 2 ia and R 22a each independently represent a hydrocarbon-based chain.
- hydrocarbon-based chain preferably means a chain comprising from 1 to 30 and preferably 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
- alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II) may also have the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination:
- R 2 i, R 22 , R 2 i a and R 22a which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl
- B and B a which may be identical or different, represent a linear C1-C4 alkylene.
- alkoxysilane(s) are chosen from bis[3- (triethoxysilyl)propyl]amine of formula (CH3CH 2 0)3-
- the alkoxysilane(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (III):
- R-24 and R 25 represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more groups chosen from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups,
- E and E a each independently represent a linear or branched divalent Ci-C 2 o alkylene radical
- R 2 6 and R 27 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether, Ci-C 2 o alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, C 6 -C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 20 alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups,
- i is an integer ranging from 0 to 4,
- h 0 or 1
- the group(s) R 2 8 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably C 1 -C 10 hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more ether, C1-C20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, C6-C30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 20 alcoho l ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups .
- R 24 and R 25 each independently represent a hydrocarbon-based chain.
- hydrocarbon-based chain preferably means a chain comprising from 1 to 30 and preferably 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
- R 26 or R 27 may represent a hydrocarbon-based chain. In this case, it preferably means a chain comprising from 1 to 30 and preferably 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
- the aromatic ring comprises from 6 to 30 carbon atoms . Even more preferentially, it denotes an optionally substituted phenyl radical.
- alkoxysilane(s) of formula (III) may have the fo llowing characteristics, taken alone or in combination:
- R 24 is a C i -C 4 alkyl
- R 2 6 and R 27 independently represent hydrogen or a group chosen from C i - C 4 alkyl, C i -C 4 hydroxyalkyl and C i -C 4 amino alkyl.
- R 26 and R 27 represent a hydrogen atom.
- alkoxysilane(s) of formula (III) may be chosen from:
- N-(2-amino ethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane of formula:
- alkoxysilane(s) that may be used in the compositions according to the present invention correspond to formula
- Ri and R 2 independently o f each other, are chosen from hydrogen and ethyl, propyl and aminoethyl groups;
- R3 is chosen from ethyl, propyl and methylphenethyl groups
- R 4 , R 5 and R 6 independently o f each other, are chosen from methyl, methoxy and ethoxy groups.
- the alkoxysilanes o f the invention comprise one or more primary or secondary amine functions.
- the alkoxysilanes of the invention are chosen from the fo llowing compounds : 3 -aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3 - aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3 - aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3 - aminopropyltriethoxysilane and N-(2- aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane of formula:
- APTES 3 -aminopropyltriethoxysilane
- AETES aminoethyltriethoxysilane
- N-(2-aminoethyl)-3 - aminopropyltriethoxysilane N-(2- aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane of formula:
- the alkoxysilane is 3 -aminopropyltriethoxysilane
- the alkoxysilane(s) are generally used in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 30% and preferably between 1 % and 20%> by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additives.
- composition according to the invention may thus comprise one or more surfactants such as anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.
- the surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants .
- Nonionic surfactants are compounds that are well known per se
- amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that can be used in the present invention may especially be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, which are optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of (C8-2o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (Cs- 2 o alkyl)amido
- R a represents a C10-C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a -COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,
- R b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group
- R c represents a carboxymethyl group
- X* represents the -CH 2 -COOH, CH 2 -COOZ', -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH or -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ' group, or a hydrogen atom
- Y* represents -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 H or -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 Z',
- Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine.
- R a ' represents a Cio-C 3 o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a '-COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C 17 group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group.
- cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
- amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants it is preferred to use (Cs-C 2 o alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (Cs-C 2 o alkyl)amido(C 3 -Cs alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is (are) selected from cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.
- anionic surfactant refers to a surfactant which as ionic or ionizable groups contains only anionic groups .
- anionic groups are preferably chosen from the fo llowing groups : C0 2 H, C0 2 " , S0 3 H, S0 3 " , O S O3H, O S O3 “ , H2PO3 , HPO3 “ , P0 3 2 “ , H2PO2 , HP0 2 " , P0 2 2” POH, PO ⁇
- anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made o f alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-o lefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfo succinates, alkylether sulfo succinates, alkylamide sulfo succinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N- acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxy
- These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
- the salts of C 6 -24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids may be selected from C 6 -24 alkyl po lyglyco side- citrates, C 6 -24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 -24 alkyl poly glycoside-sulfo succinates .
- anionic surfactant(s) When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
- alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
- Examples o f aminoalcoho l salts that may especially be mentioned include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 ,3 -propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.
- Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.
- anionic surfactants that may be present are preferably mild anionic surfactants, i. e. anionic surfactants without a sulfate function.
- polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid alkylamido ethers in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
- alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters .
- the composition does not contain any anionic detergent surfactant of sulfate type (alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate, alkylamido ether sulfate) . If it does contain any, its content is such that the weight ratio : anionic detergent surfactant of alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate type/sum of the other non-cationic surfactants, is preferably less than or equal to 1 , more particularly less than or equal to 0.75 and even more preferentially less than or equal to 0.5.
- anionic detergent surfactant of alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate type/sum of the other non-cationic surfactants is preferably less than or equal to 1 , more particularly less than or equal to 0.75 and even more preferentially less than or equal to 0.5.
- the surfactant(s) may be present in the composition in concentrations ranging from 0.01 % to 50 % by weight and preferably from 0. 1 % to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. When they are present, the amount of the anionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0. 1 % to 50 % by weight, even better still from 4% to 30 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants(s) is preferably within the range from 0.01 % to 20 % by weight and better still from 0.5 %> to 10 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the nonionic surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in concentrations ranging from 0. 1 % to 25 % by weight and preferably from 1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention may moreover comprise additives that are conventional in the field, for instance those chosen from the non-exhaustive list such as reducing agents, oxidizing agents, sequestrants, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, emollients, basifying agents, plasticizers, sunscreens, direct dyes or oxidation dyes, fragrances, peptizers, preserving agents, vitamins, antidandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, hair-loss counteractants, and non-polymeric thickeners such as fatty amides, fatty ethers, fatty alcoho ls, silicas and clays.
- additives that are conventional in the field, for instance those chosen from the non-exhaustive list such as reducing agents, oxidizing agents, sequestrants, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, emollients, basifying agents, plasticizers, sunscreens, direct dyes or oxidation dyes, fragrances, pe
- the adjuvants mentioned above are generally present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.01 % and 20%> by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention may comprise one or more conditioning agents .
- composition contains at least one conditioning agent
- it may be chosen from synthetic oils such as poly-cc-o lefins, fluoro oils, fluoro waxes, fluoro gums, carboxylic acid esters, cationic surfactants, silicones, mineral, plant or animal oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides and cationic po lymers, and mixtures thereof.
- compositions o f the invention may thus contain one or more cationic surfactants.
- cationic surfactants mention may be made in particular (non- limiting list) o f: optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts ; imidazo line derivatives ; quaternary ammonium salts and in particular trialkylammonium salts comprising at least one fatty chain containing from 1 0 to 30 carbon atoms and especially cetyltrimethylammonium or behenyltrimethylammonium salts; cationic surfactants comprising at least one ester function.
- o f cationic surfactants comprising at least one ester function
- R22 is chosen from C i -C 6 alkyl radicals and C i -C 6 hydroxyalkyl dihydroxyalkyl radicals ;
- R23 is chosen from:
- R25 is chosen from:
- radical 28 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C i - C 6 hydrocarbon-based radicals R29 ,
- R24 , R26 and R 2 8 which are identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7 - C21 hydrocarbon- based radicals;
- r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
- y is an integer ranging from 1 to 1 0;
- x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 1 0;
- X " is a simp le or complex, organic or inorganic anion
- the alkyl radicals R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
- R22 preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
- the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
- R2 3 is a hydrocarbon radical R27 , it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms .
- R25 is a hydrocarbon radical R29 , it has preferably 1 to
- R24 , R26 and R28 which are identical or different, are selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C n - C 2 1 hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C n - C 2 1 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
- x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 .
- y is equal to 1 .
- r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 , and even more particularly are equal to 2.
- the anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate.
- halide chloride, bromide or iodide
- alkyl sulfate more particularly methyl sulfate.
- methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function may be used.
- the anion X " is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.
- - P 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical
- - z is equal to 0 or 1 ;
- - P 23 is chosen from:
- - R25 is chosen from:
- R24 , R26 and R28 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 3 -C 1 7 hydrocarbon radicals and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 3 -C 1 7 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
- hydrocarbon-based radicals are advantageously linear.
- examples that may be mentioned include the compounds o f formula (IV) such as the diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,
- acyl radicals preferably contain 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
- This esterification is fo llowed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glyco l chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
- an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glyco l chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
- Such compounds are so ld, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 1 8 by the company Rewo-Witco .
- composition according to the invention preferably contains a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of mono-, di- and triesters with a weight majority o f diester salts.
- Examples o f mixtures o f ammonium salts that may be used include the mixture containing 15 % to 30% by weight o f acyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, 45 % to 60 % of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate and 1 5 % to 30 % of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, the acyl radicals containing from 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and being derived from palm oil that is optionally partially hydrogenated.
- the surfactant containing at least one ester function is a diacyloxydialkylhydroxyalkylammonium salt or a diacyloxytrialkylammonium salt and in particular dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or dicetearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethyldimethylammonium chloride or distearoyldiethylmethylammonium chloride.
- the silicones may be vo latile or non- volatile. They may be nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric. They may or may not be organomodified.
- silicones containing quaternary ammonium groups are particularly appreciated.
- silicon containing quaternary ammonium groups means any silicone comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups . These quaternary ammonium groups may be attached in the alpha or omega position or in the form of side groups . They may be attached directly to the polysiloxane backbone or may be borne by hydrocarbon-based chains .
- silicone means, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any polymer having a structure based on an alternation of silicon and oxygen atoms, linked together via bonds known as siloxane bonds (-Si-O-Si-), and also characterized by the existence of silicon-carbon bonds .
- These silicones, or polysiloxanes are generally obtained by polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes .
- the hydrocarbon- based radicals most commonly borne by the silicon atoms are lower alkyl radicals, in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, and aryl radicals and in particular phenyl.
- the silicones containing quaternary ammonium groups of the present invention are chosen, for example, from the compounds corresponding to the following general formulae:
- Ri which may be identical or different, represents a -C30 linear or branched alkyl group or a phenyl group;
- R 2 which may be identical or different, represents -C c H 2c -0- (C 2 H 4 0) a -(C 3 H 6 0) b -(P0 3 H) d -R 5 or -C c H 2c -0-(C 4 H 8 0) a -(P0 3 H) d -R 5 ;
- R 5 which may be identical or different, is chosen from the groups of the following formula: +
- radicals Rs independently represent a linear or branched d - C 22 alkyl or C 2 -C 22 alkenyl radical, optionally bearing one or more OH groups, or represent a group ChH 2 hZCOR9 ;
- R 6 , R7 and R 9 which may be identical or different, represent linear or branched C 1 -C22 alkyl or C2-C22 , alkenyl radicals, optionally bearing one or more OH groups, or R 7 may form with part of Rs a heterocycle (ring containing at least one heteroatom, for instance N, O or P), the heterocycle especially being an imidazoline.
- R 6 and R 7 denote a C i -C 6 alkyl radical and more particularly methyl
- R 9 preferably denotes a radical chosen from Cs -C i s alkyl and Cs -C i s alkenyl and especially a cocoyl radical.
- n ranges from 0 to 20;
- n ranges from 0 to 500;
- p ranges from 1 to 50;
- q ranges from 0 to 20;
- r ranges from 1 to 20;
- b ranges from 0 to 50;
- c ranges from 0 to 4.
- d denotes 0 or 1 ;
- f ranges from 0 to 4.
- g ranges from 0 to 2, and is preferably equal to 1 ;
- h ranges from 1 to 4, and is preferably equal to 3 ;
- Z represents an oxygen atom or NH
- a " represents a monovalent organic or inorganic anion such as a halide (e .g. chloride, bromide), a sulfate or a carboxylate (e. g. acetate, lactate, citrate) .
- a halide e.g. chloride, bromide
- a sulfate e.g. a carboxylate
- a carboxylate e. g. acetate, lactate, citrate
- Quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (VI) or (VII) are preferably used. It is preferred to use silicones containing quaternary ammonium corresponding to the general formula (VII) as defined above, and more particularly those corresponding to the general formulae (VII) in which at least one, and preferably all, o f the fo llowing conditions are met:
- c is equal to 0;
- d denotes 0;
- a is equal to zero
- b is equal to 1 ;
- n ranges from 0 to 100;
- f 3 ;
- g is 1 ;
- P 6 and P 7 denote a methyl group
- P 8 denotes a C 10 - C22 alkyl radical.
- silicones o f the invention examples include those so ld by the company Go ldschmidt under the names Abil Quat 3272, Abil B 9905 , Abil Quat 3474 and Abil K 3270, by the company Lipo France under the names Silquat Q- 100, Silquat Q-200 WS, Silquat AX, Silquat AC, Silquat AD and Silquat AM, all manufactured by the company Siltech, by the company OSI under the name Magnaso ft Exhaust and Silsoft C-880, and by the company UCIB under the names Pecosil 14-PQ and Pecosil 36-PQ (manufactured by Phoenix Chemical) .
- the silicone containing quaternary ammonium groups is o f formula (VII) .
- the quaternary silicone is the compound referenced in the CTFA (INCI name) under the name Quaternium-80.
- the silicones containing quaternary ammonium groups used in accordance with the invention may be in the form o f aqueous so lutions, or optionally in the form o f dispersions or emulsions in water.
- the content of conditioning agents in the composition may range from 0.001 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 % to 5 % by weight and even more preferentially from 0.01 % to 3 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the medium that is cosmetically acceptable for the keratin fibres such as the hair may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents .
- the content of water in the composition is preferably greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Examples o f organic so lvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched and preferably saturated monoalcohols containing 2 to 1 0 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcoho l or isopropyl alcohol; aromatic alcoho ls such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcoho l; polyo ls or polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glyco l or dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanedio l) , neopentyl glyco l and 3 -methyl- 1 ,5 -pentanedio l; and also diethylene glyco l alkyl ethers, especially of C 1 - C 4 , for instance diethylene glyco
- the organic so lvent(s) may be present in proportions, for example, of between 1 % and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, and even more preferentially between 5 % and 30% by weight approximately.
- composition according to the invention may be in various galenical forms, such as a lotion, a shampoo, a gel, a cream, a wax or a paste.
- a lotion When the composition according to the invention is in liquid form, for instance a lotion, it is in the form o f a dispersion.
- the composition may be conditioned in any type o f container with or without an applicator.
- the container may contain a roller or a member making it is possible especially to homogenize the composition before its application to the keratin fibres, such as the hair.
- the container containing the composition may have a capacity o f greater than or equal to 15 ml, especially greater than or equal to 50 ml, or even 100 ml, especially greater than or equal to 150 ml, for example between 15 ml and 500 ml.
- composition may be applied onto any type of support, for instance woven or nonwoven supports, a paper or a flexible polymer.
- the composition according to the invention may impregnate a wipe.
- composition according to the invention may be introduced into a stream o f carrier fluid, and may be sprayed onto the hair.
- the composition may be contained in a reservoir of a comb or a brush having, for example, orifices at the base of the teeth or bristles, for delivering the product and applying it to the hair, such as those described in document WO 2009/ 156 668.
- composition according to the invention as defined above may be in its native form or alternatively may result from the mixing, before use, of a first composition comprising pumice particles with amine vo lume diameter of between 100 and 500 ⁇ ; and of a second composition comprising one or more alkoxysilanes .
- the composition according to the invention may result from the mixing on keratin fibres, and especially the hair, of the two compositions defined previously, via sequential application.
- the final composition i. e. the composition in contact with the hair, contains more than 10% by weight of pumice particles as defined above relative to the total weight of the final composition.
- the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair, comprising the fo llowing steps :
- a cosmetic composition A comprising pumice particles with a mean vo lume diameter of between 100 and 500 ⁇ , and
- compositions A and B form a single composition, the application of which is performed in a single stage.
- this single composition is the composition according to the invention as defined previously.
- the step o f applying to the keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair, cosmetic composition A may include an abrasion step, separate from the application step .
- This step of abrasion of the keratin fibres may take place either immediately, i. e. during the application of cosmetic composition A or alternatively of the composition according to the invention to the hair, or after the application of cosmetic composition A or alternatively o f the composition according to the invention to the hair, for examp le within less than 1 hour, especially less than 30 minutes, or even 10 minutes after the application of one of the abovementioned compositions to the hair.
- a step of rinsing o f the hair, when it takes place, may intervene rapidly after the treatment process, i .e . after all the steps described above .
- the time between the application of composition A or of the composition according to the invention and rinsing may be, for example, less than 4 hours, especially less than 1 hour, for examp le less than 20 minutes . In general, this rinsing is performed immediately after the treatment.
- the step of application of cosmetic composition A, and especially the step of abrasion of the keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair, may be performed by rubbing the keratin fibres with the bare hands or by placing at least one surface between the hands and the keratin fibres charged with cosmetic composition A, or with the composition according to the invention, for example a wipe, a towel, a glove or the like .
- the treatment may be performed other than by using a comb or a brush.
- the abrasion o f the keratin fibres such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair, may be performed, for example, using at least one surface placed in motion, in vibration or in rotation, especially by a mechanized system.
- the treatment using the cosmetic composition A or the composition according to the invention may be performed, for example, by hand, lock by lock, in two movements : a first "tangential" movement, i. e. substantially along the hair, for example from the root to the end, and a second "shear" motion, i.e. substantially orthogonal to the hair, in a transverse direction thereto .
- the two movements may be repeated several times, for example at least five times, for example ten times.
- only one o f the abovementioned movements may be performed and optionally repeated several times .
- the duration o f the abrasion step may depend, for example, on the desired intensity o f abrasion and on the condition o f the hair.
- the process according to the invention may comprise two abrasion steps, using two compositions according to the invention applied successively, each comprising pumice particles in accordance with the invention, the mean vo lume diameters or the hardness of the pumice particles in accordance with the invention o f the two compositions according to the invention being different.
- a single bottle may contain the two compositions according to the invention conditioned separately, or two different bottles may each contain a composition according to the invention.
- Another conditioning mode may consist of a bottle containing a base composition free o f pumice particles in accordance with the invention, which are conditioned separately, for example in at least two separate compartments, as a function of their particle size or their hardness.
- the user selects before the treatment, for example abrasion, the pumice particles in accordance with the invention to be mixed with the base composition to form the first composition, the mixing being performed by the user or in the bottle .
- the user may perform a second treatment, for example a second abrasion, this time mixing other pumice particles in accordance with the invention with the base composition to form the second composition. Rinsing may be performed between and/or after the two treatments.
- the treatment process may be performed after a step of characterization o f the hair, for example by means of a visual examination with the naked eye or under a magnifying device or by instrumental means, for example by recording the sound produced by the movement o f a comb through the hair using a sonometer or by optically determining the gloss of the hair.
- the characterization o f the hair may also invo lve a chemical reagent applied onto a sample of the hair.
- the process according to the invention may include an additional step that consists in combing and/or rinsing the keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair, after the application step(s) .
- the rinsing may be performed with water.
- the process according to the invention may also include a step that consists in heating the hair before or after placing in contact with the cosmetic compositions A and B, or alternatively of the composition according to the invention, for examp le to a temperature of between 40°C and 250°C and especially between 60°C and 220°C .
- the hair may, for example, be heated after the treatment, so as to shape it, for example by performing blow-drying.
- the heating of the hair may be performed, for examp le, using an iron, a liquid water/steam mixture or using a heating hood.
- the hair may be totally or partially dried.
- the process according to the invention may also include a step that consists in applying, for examp le before or after treatment with the cosmetic compositions A and B, or alternatively of the composition according to the invention, another treatment product to the keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair.
- the treatment product may be, for example, a cosmetic product, especially a conditioner, a permanent-waving product, a relaxing product or a product for dyeing or bleaching the hair.
- the treatment product may be chosen, for example, from the fo llowing products, this list not being limiting :
- products for modifying the mechanical properties of the hair especially comprising a reducing agent, such as thioglycolic acid and derivatives thereo f, cysteine, sulfite, sodium hydroxide, guanidine carbonate, trihydroxymethylphosphine, or an oxidizing agent, such as ⁇ 2 0 2 , persulfate or an alkali metal hydroxide at very high pH,
- a reducing agent such as thioglycolic acid and derivatives thereo f, cysteine, sulfite, sodium hydroxide, guanidine carbonate, trihydroxymethylphosphine, or an oxidizing agent, such as ⁇ 2 0 2 , persulfate or an alkali metal hydroxide at very high pH
- emollients or penetrants comprising, for example, a solvent, a plasticizer or a cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactant;
- products that modify the surface property of the hair especially comprising a silicone, a reactive amino silicone, an adhesive polymer, a non-silicone lubricant comprising fatty substances chosen from plant oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, and waxes, especially fatty alcoho ls or fatty esters;
- products for restructuring the interior of the hair comprising, for example, an ionene, a protein, a hydroxy acid or a reactive compound, especially a formaldehyde generator, and
- the treatment product may be applied before the treatment, for example o f abrasion type, and may contribute towards protecting the hair during the said treatment, in order especially to avoid excessive abrasion.
- the treatment product is preferably applied after application o f the cosmetic compositions A and B or of the composition according to the invention.
- the process in accordance with the invention may include an additional step that consists in subj ecting the treated keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair, to a post-treatment, the post-treatment being chosen from the application o f a conditioning product, a permanent- waving product, a relaxer and a product for dyeing or bleaching keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair.
- a subj ect of the invention is also, independently or in combination with the foregoing, a kit for treating keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair, comprising :
- composition A comprising pumice particles as defined above, and
- composition B comprising one or more alkoxysilanes as defined above.
- the concentration of pumice particles in composition A is calculated so as to take into account the dilution factor once compositions A and B have been mixed together, the composition resulting from the mixture being a composition according to the invention.
- a subj ect of the invention is also, independently or in combination with the foregoing, a kit for treating keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair, comprising :
- compositions or a set of compositions according to the invention as defined above and - a support comprising instructions for the use of the composition on the keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair, for example in order to perform abrasion of the fibres.
- the kit may also comprise a composition for the post-treatment of keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair.
- the post-treatment composition may comprise one or more of the fo llowing cosmetic active agents : a conditioner, a permanent-waving product, a relaxer or a product for dyeing or bleaching the hair.
- the post-treatment product may be chosen, for examp le, from those described above.
- the invention relates to the use of the composition as defined above for smoothing keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair.
- concentrations are indicated as grams of active material for 100 g of composition.
- Composition A A:
- the study is performed on a panel of 20 women: 10 women with natural long hair and 10 women with sensitized long hair.
- the application is performed lock by lock in two movements : a first "tangential” movement and a second "shear” movement.
- the two movements are repeated ten times .
- the hair is combed, then rinsed and finally dried by blow-drying.
- composition according to the invention shows very good working qualities (ease of application, rinseability, quality o f the feel after rinsing) .
- composition D a hair conditioner
- the experts comparatively evaluate the sensory properties o f each half-head: one treated with the process of the invention and the other treated with the placebo, i.e . a composition comprising pumice particles with a mean vo lume diameter of between 100 and 500 ⁇ , but not containing any alkoxysilane (APTES) .
- APTES alkoxysilane
- EXAMPLE 2 Preparation of keratin fibres using a composition comprising pumice particles fo llowed by a post-treatment containing alkoxysilane.
- the process of the invention is constituted by two steps :
- composition D a hair conditioner
- Treatment composition C Components % AM
- Hydroxyethyl cellulose (Natrosol 250 HHR so ld by
- the study is performed on a panel of 20 women: 10 women with natural long hair and 10 women with sensitized long hair.
- the application o f composition B is performed lo ck by lock in two movements on the who le head of hair: a first "tangential" movement and a second " shear” movement. The two movements are repeated ten times. The hair is combed.
- composition C is applied, to a half-head, and is then rinsed out and the hair is finally dried by blow-drying.
- Compositions B and C show very good working qualities (ease of application, rinseability, quality o f the feel after rinsing) .
- EXAMPLE 3 Preparation of keratin fibres using a composition containing alkoxysilane. Application o f the composition containing pumice particles to the fibre pretreated with alkoxysilane.
- composition (C) containing an alkoxysilane, APTES a composition (C) containing an alkoxysilane, APTES .
- composition D a hair conditioner
- Compositions B and C are those described in Example 2. Only the order of application changes . The study is performed on a panel o f 20 women: 10 women with natural long hair and 10 women with sensitized long hair.
- Composition C is applied to the who le head of hair.
- composition B is applied lock by lock in two movements on a half-head: a first "tangential” movement and a second "shear” movement. The two movements are repeated ten times. The hair is combed, then rinsed and finally dried by blow-drying. Compositions B and C show very good working qualities (ease of application, rinseability, quality o f the feel after rinsing).
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Abstract
La présente invention se rapporte à une composition comprenant : - plus de 10% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de particules de pierre ponce d'un diamètre volumique moyen situé entre 100 et 500 μm, et - un ou plusieurs alkoxysilanes. La présente invention se rapporte aussi à un procédé de traitement des fibres de kératine utilisant ladite composition, et à un kit contenant ladite composition et à son utilisation.
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR1052807A FR2958538B1 (fr) | 2010-04-13 | 2010-04-13 | Composition et procede de traitement utilisant des particules de pierre ponce |
FR1052807 | 2010-04-13 | ||
US32829810P | 2010-04-27 | 2010-04-27 | |
US61/328,298 | 2010-04-27 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
WO2011128309A1 true WO2011128309A1 (fr) | 2011-10-20 |
Family
ID=43415653
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/EP2011/055655 WO2011128309A1 (fr) | 2010-04-13 | 2011-04-12 | Composition et procédé de traitement utilisant des particules de pierre ponce |
Country Status (2)
Country | Link |
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FR (1) | FR2958538B1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2011128309A1 (fr) |
Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN107624066A (zh) * | 2015-03-25 | 2018-01-23 | 莱雅公司 | 头发的化妆处理方法 |
WO2020200574A1 (fr) * | 2019-04-04 | 2020-10-08 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Procédé de traitement de matière kératinique |
US11236117B2 (en) * | 2015-09-30 | 2022-02-01 | Amorepacific Corporation | Alkoxysilane compound or salt thereof, preparation method therefor, and hair composition containing same |
Families Citing this family (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR3068888B1 (fr) * | 2017-07-17 | 2019-08-30 | L'oreal | Composition comprenant un polymere fixant, un polymere cationique, un organosilane et une cire en microdispersion |
FR3068887B1 (fr) * | 2017-07-17 | 2019-08-30 | L'oreal | Composition comprenant un polymere fixant, un polymere cationique, un organosilane, un polysaccharide non ionique et une cire |
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EP0530974A1 (fr) | 1991-08-05 | 1993-03-10 | Unilever Plc | Compositions pour le soin des cheveux |
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EP0714654A1 (fr) | 1994-12-03 | 1996-06-05 | Wella Aktiengesellschaft | Composition et procédé pour la déformation permanente des cheveux |
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DE102005060435A1 (de) * | 2005-12-15 | 2007-06-21 | Henkel Kgaa | Haarwachsspray |
FR2931636A1 (fr) * | 2008-05-30 | 2009-12-04 | Oreal | Procede de traitement des cheveux. |
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EP0530974A1 (fr) | 1991-08-05 | 1993-03-10 | Unilever Plc | Compositions pour le soin des cheveux |
EP0617607A1 (fr) | 1992-10-20 | 1994-10-05 | Alberto Culver Co | Composition de soins des cheveux contenant une huile de silicone dispersee. |
EP0714654A1 (fr) | 1994-12-03 | 1996-06-05 | Wella Aktiengesellschaft | Composition et procédé pour la déformation permanente des cheveux |
US20020012697A1 (en) * | 1998-01-26 | 2002-01-31 | Sam Schwartz | Cosmetic and tissue cleansing and moisturizing composition |
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FR2931644A1 (fr) * | 2008-05-30 | 2009-12-04 | Oreal | Procede et appareil de traitement des cheveux. |
WO2009156668A2 (fr) | 2008-05-30 | 2009-12-30 | L'oreal | Procedes et kits de traitement des cheveux |
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WO2010112682A1 (fr) * | 2009-03-31 | 2010-10-07 | L'oreal | Composition capillaire de traitement des cheveux |
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Cited By (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN107624066A (zh) * | 2015-03-25 | 2018-01-23 | 莱雅公司 | 头发的化妆处理方法 |
JP2018509445A (ja) * | 2015-03-25 | 2018-04-05 | ロレアル | 毛髪の美容処置の方法 |
CN107624066B (zh) * | 2015-03-25 | 2023-01-03 | 莱雅公司 | 头发的化妆处理方法 |
US11236117B2 (en) * | 2015-09-30 | 2022-02-01 | Amorepacific Corporation | Alkoxysilane compound or salt thereof, preparation method therefor, and hair composition containing same |
WO2020200574A1 (fr) * | 2019-04-04 | 2020-10-08 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Procédé de traitement de matière kératinique |
US12233147B2 (en) | 2019-04-04 | 2025-02-25 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Method for treating keratin material |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
FR2958538B1 (fr) | 2012-06-15 |
FR2958538A1 (fr) | 2011-10-14 |
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