WO2011117553A1 - Dyeing method using non-glycosylated iridoid dyes, dyeing composition and use thereof - Google Patents
Dyeing method using non-glycosylated iridoid dyes, dyeing composition and use thereof Download PDFInfo
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- WO2011117553A1 WO2011117553A1 PCT/FR2011/050646 FR2011050646W WO2011117553A1 WO 2011117553 A1 WO2011117553 A1 WO 2011117553A1 FR 2011050646 W FR2011050646 W FR 2011050646W WO 2011117553 A1 WO2011117553 A1 WO 2011117553A1
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- radical
- optionally
- alkyl
- optionally substituted
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 102
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 32
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 title abstract description 15
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 title description 17
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 claims abstract description 62
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 56
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 claims abstract description 52
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 42
- 239000001257 hydrogen Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O ammonium group Chemical group [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 150000002431 hydrogen Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen Chemical compound [H][H] UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 150000001768 cations Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 125000003172 aldehyde group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 239000008103 glucose Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N Glucose Chemical group OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- -1 alkyl radical Chemical class 0.000 claims description 159
- IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Atomic nitrogen Chemical compound N#N IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 76
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 67
- 125000005842 heteroatom Chemical group 0.000 claims description 51
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- 125000004433 nitrogen atom Chemical group N* 0.000 claims description 26
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 23
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims description 23
- 125000000623 heterocyclic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 22
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- 125000002924 primary amino group Chemical group [H]N([H])* 0.000 claims description 20
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- 125000003545 alkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 18
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- 125000000664 diazo group Chemical group [N-]=[N+]=[*] 0.000 claims description 16
- 125000000449 nitro group Chemical group [O-][N+](*)=O 0.000 claims description 16
- 125000000018 nitroso group Chemical group N(=O)* 0.000 claims description 16
- CIUQDSCDWFSTQR-UHFFFAOYSA-N [C]1=CC=CC=C1 Chemical class [C]1=CC=CC=C1 CIUQDSCDWFSTQR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 15
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- 125000002915 carbonyl group Chemical group [*:2]C([*:1])=O 0.000 claims description 7
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- ZRALSGWEFCBTJO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Guanidine Chemical compound NC(N)=N ZRALSGWEFCBTJO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000001340 alkali metals Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000001342 alkaline earth metals Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000004122 cyclic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- ORTFAQDWJHRMNX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxidooxidocarbon(.) Chemical group O[C]=O ORTFAQDWJHRMNX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000010186 staining Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bicarbonate Chemical compound OC([O-])=O BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 5
- BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Carbonate Chemical compound [O-]C([O-])=O BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 5
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- 229910021529 ammonia Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000003917 carbamoyl group Chemical group [H]N([H])C(*)=O 0.000 claims description 5
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000000446 sulfanediyl group Chemical group *S* 0.000 claims description 5
- SLRMQYXOBQWXCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2154-56-5 Chemical class [CH2]C1=CC=CC=C1 SLRMQYXOBQWXCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- PXHVJJICTQNCMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nickel Chemical compound [Ni] PXHVJJICTQNCMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- HAMNKKUPIHEESI-UHFFFAOYSA-N aminoguanidine Chemical compound NNC(N)=N HAMNKKUPIHEESI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000004397 aminosulfonyl group Chemical group NS(=O)(=O)* 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000004429 atom Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000001570 methylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:1])[*:2] 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000001424 substituent group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000004434 sulfur atom Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
- ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chlorine atom Chemical compound [Cl] ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- RYGMFSIKBFXOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Copper Chemical compound [Cu] RYGMFSIKBFXOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- AVXURJPOCDRRFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydroxylamine Chemical compound ON AVXURJPOCDRRFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- CKLJMWTZIZZHCS-REOHCLBHSA-N L-aspartic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CC(O)=O CKLJMWTZIZZHCS-REOHCLBHSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- CHJJGSNFBQVOTG-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-methyl-guanidine Natural products CNC(N)=N CHJJGSNFBQVOTG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silver Chemical compound [Ag] BQCADISMDOOEFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- HCHKCACWOHOZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zinc Chemical compound [Zn] HCHKCACWOHOZIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000004453 alkoxycarbonyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000003277 amino group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940009098 aspartate Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
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- 239000010949 copper Substances 0.000 claims description 3
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- CREMABGTGYGIQB-UHFFFAOYSA-N carbon carbon Chemical compound C.C CREMABGTGYGIQB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- 229940049920 malate Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- WPBNNNQJVZRUHP-UHFFFAOYSA-L manganese(2+);methyl n-[[2-(methoxycarbonylcarbamothioylamino)phenyl]carbamothioyl]carbamate;n-[2-(sulfidocarbothioylamino)ethyl]carbamodithioate Chemical compound [Mn+2].[S-]C(=S)NCCNC([S-])=S.COC(=O)NC(=S)NC1=CC=CC=C1NC(=S)NC(=O)OC WPBNNNQJVZRUHP-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 2
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- MBVFRSJFKMJRHA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-fluoro-1-benzofuran-7-carbaldehyde Chemical compound FC1=CC=C(C=O)C2=C1C=CO2 MBVFRSJFKMJRHA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
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- 125000000026 trimethylsilyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])[Si]([*])(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- YVWPNDBYAAEZBF-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethylsilylmethanamine Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)CN YVWPNDBYAAEZBF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960000281 trometamol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940035893 uracil Drugs 0.000 description 1
- DRTQHJPVMGBUCF-UHFFFAOYSA-N uracil arabinoside Natural products OC1C(O)C(CO)OC1N1C(=O)NC(=O)C=C1 DRTQHJPVMGBUCF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AQLJVWUFPCUVLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N urea hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO.NC(N)=O AQLJVWUFPCUVLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940045145 uridine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000004474 valine Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002888 zwitterionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
- A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/24—Thermal properties
Definitions
- the subject of the present invention is a method for dyeing keratinous fibers in which a composition comprising at least one or more dyes of the family of non-glycosylated iridoids (in the anomeric position) extracted from plants is applied, the final color being revealed. by applying a heat, light and / or chemical treatment.
- oxidation dyeing or permanent which consists in using one or more oxidation dye precursors, more particularly one or more oxidation bases optionally associated with one or more couplers.
- oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols as well as heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, make it possible to access colored species by a process of oxidative condensation.
- the shades obtained with these oxidation bases are varied by combining them with one or more couplers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.
- direct dyeing which uses direct dyes.
- the compounds generally employed are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine, azomethine, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes. They are colored and coloring molecules, having a certain affinity for the fibers, but which, because of their size, remain localized rather on the surface of the fiber. The colorations obtained are therefore less stubborn than those obtained with oxidation dyes. It is also not uncommon to observe a color shift when mixing two direct dyes of complementary color and different chemical structure.
- a hair dyeing method using a composition comprising at least one compound of type (seco) Iridoide-glycoside or (uno) non-glycosylated iridoid (also called aglycon), extracted from plants such as Rubiaceae, Euphorbiaceae, Valerianaceae, Cornaceae, Gentianaceae, Caprifoliaceae, Oleaceae, Ericaceae, Loganiaceae, etc. These compounds are in purified form and not present in a plant extract.
- type (seco) Iridoide-glycoside or (uno) non-glycosylated iridoid also called aglycon
- the present invention therefore aims to overcome the disadvantages described above.
- the subject of the present invention is therefore a process for staining human keratin fibers in which a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a plant extract comprising at least one compound of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) is applied. or their addition salts, in combination with at least one external stimulus, selected from:
- R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical, a hydroxymethyl radical, an aldehyde group; a group -C0 2 R 4 in which R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical; a -CH 2 -glucose group;
- R 2 represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a glucose radical
- R 3 which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl radical or a (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl radical
- n is an integer equal to 1 or 2; When n is less than 2, the unsubstituted carbon atom (s) carry (s) a hydrogen atom.
- R 5 represents a group -CO 2 R ' 6 in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation or an ammonium group;
- R 6 represents a hydrogen, a group -C0 2 R ' 6 in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group.
- compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium comprising at least water, from 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, of one or more compounds of formula (II) below, or its addition salts:
- R 5 represents a group -CO 2 R ' 6 in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation or an ammonium group;
- R 6 represents a hydrogen, a group -C0 2 R ' 6 in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group.
- the process according to the invention is carried out starting from a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a plant extract comprising at least one compound of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) above. .
- R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical, a hydroxymethyl radical or an aldehyde group; a hydroxycarbonyl group, a methoxycarbonyl group, an ethoxycarbonyl group.
- R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl radical.
- R 3 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a methoxy group, an ethoxy group or an n-butyloxy group.
- R 5 represents a hydroxycarbonyl radical, a methoxycarbonyl radical and an ethoxycarbonyl radical.
- R 6 represents a hydrogen, a hydroxycarbonyl radical, a methoxycarbonyl radical or an ethoxycarbonyl radical.
- the compound of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) is genipin (R 1 represents a methoxycarbonyl group) and / or genipotic acid or one of its salts (R 1 represents a carboxylic group in acid or salified form) and / or genipic acid (R 5 represents a hydroxycarbonyl radical and R 6 , a hydrogen atom) and / or genipinic acid (R 5 represents a hydroxycarbonyl radical and R 6 , a methoxycarbonyl radical).
- the compounds of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) are generally found in plant extracts from the following plants: Veronica persica; Genipa americana; Apodytes dimidiata; Randia canthioides; Tarenna attenuata and preferably Genipa americana.
- extract means juices, or powders obtained by one or more extraction, enrichment, concentration and possibly drying operations, from natural plant substances.
- the compound (s) of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) may be alone or as a mixture, optionally in solution in its extraction solvent.
- fruits are optionally frozen, washed with water to remove impurities present. It may optionally be sterilized, especially with a solution comprising ethanol and chlorine.
- the fruits are defrosted if necessary and pressed for example by means of a specially adapted hydraulic press.
- the juice thus recovered is filtered, degassed in the presence of nitrogen, this operation avoiding the oxidation of genipin or its derivatives, increasing the amount of dissolved gas.
- the juice is then stored in an airtight container protected from the air.
- the recovered juice can then, if necessary, be the subject of a concentration and drying step.
- the extract used is derived from Genipa americana.
- the extract is obtained from the immature fruit of Genipa americana.
- the first step of preparation of the extract consists of freezing the fruit beforehand and carrying out a cryomilling step, for example at a temperature of between -20 ° C. and -200 ° C. on the frozen fruit. A fine and homogeneous powder is thus collected.
- the active ingredient (s) of formula (I) and / or (II) are extracted for example with water.
- the extract is then concentrated and then optionally dried.
- the content of compound of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) in the dry extract ranges from 0.01 to 30% by weight (dried plant extract).
- the content of compound of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) of the composition is between 0.001 and 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- the dye composition may further comprise additional dyes, different from the compounds of formula (I) and / or formula (II) above.
- These direct dyes may be, for example, chosen from neutral, acidic or cationic nitro-benzene direct dyes, neutral azo, acid or cationic direct dyes, tetraazapentamethine dyes, neutral or acidic or cationic quinone dyes, in particular neutral anthraquinones, direct dyes azines, triarylmethane direct dyes, direct indoamine dyes and natural direct dyes.
- oxidation bases that may be mentioned are para-phenylenediamines, bisphenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis-para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.
- couplers there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.
- the oxidation base (s) present in the dyeing composition are in general each present in an amount of between 0.001% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition, preferably between 0.005% and 6% by weight.
- the coupler or couplers are each generally present in an amount between
- addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen especially from the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
- an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
- the composition does not comprise oxidation base or coupler.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one primary amine, secondary or its addition salts, ammonia, hydroxylamine, or mixtures thereof.
- addition salts of these amine compounds that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen especially from acid addition salts such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, dodecylbenzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, preferably hydrochlorides, citrates, succinates, tartrates, phosphates, lactates.
- acid addition salts such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, dodecylbenzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, preferably hydrochlorides, citrates, succinates, tartrates, phosphates, lactates.
- the primary or secondary amine or amines which can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from the amines of formula (III) which will be detailed below, the amino polymers, the purine bases, and their salts. addition, and their combinations.
- formula (III) is the following:
- the compounds of formula (III) are advantageously not oxidation bases or oxidation couplers, as described above.
- alkyl (Ci-C 4) alkoxycarbonylamino
- ureido N (R) 2 -CO-NR'-) in which the radicals R and R ', independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, alkyl (d-C 4 ) sulfonylamino; phenyl, indolyl, pyrolynyl, imidazolyl optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 2 alkyl, hydroxyl.
- the groups present as substituents are chosen from: carboxylic acid, in acid or salified form,
- the amine (s) of formula (III) which may be identical or different, comprise from one to five primary and / or secondary amine functions; the amine or amines having no N-N bond. Also, the amine (s) of formula (III) do not comprise more than two heteroatoms bonded together.
- the amine or amines are compounds of formula (III), more particularly chosen from compounds of formulas (Nia) to (UN), (UN ') below, and also their addition salts:
- R 9 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, preferably substituted with one or more hydroxyl, hydroxycarbonyl, thiol, C 1 -C 4 alkylthio, amido, amino, guanidine or phenyl groups; optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls, an indolyl radical optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyls, an imidazolyl radical or a pyrrolinyl radical optionally substituted with a C 1 -C 2 alkyl group; or an unsubstituted phenyl radical
- R ' 9 represents a hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, or an unsubstituted phenyl radical
- R 10 represents a hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical.
- Rg represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, preferably substituted with one or more hydroxyl, hydroxycarbonyl, alkoxy (C 1 -C 4 ) carbonyl, thiol, alkyl (dC 4 ) thio, amido or amino groups, guanidine, a phenyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls, an indolyl radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls, an imidazolyl radical, a pyrrolinyl radical optionally substituted by a C 1 -C 2 alkyl group; or an unsubstituted phenyl radical
- R ' 9 represents a hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, or an unsubstituted phenyl radical
- - Rio represents hydrogen or an alkyl radical Ci-C 4.
- R - R ' 9 and Rg may form together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered saturated heterocycle.
- R 8 and R 11 can optionally form a saturated carbon ring with 5 members.
- Ru represents an alkyl radical in CIC-10, linear or branched, optionally substituted; a benzyl radical; and even more preferably, a linear or branched dC 4 alkyl radical optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, preferably from 1 to 2 hydroxyl groups; a benzyl radical.
- Rg represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, preferably substituted by one or more hydroxyl, alkoxy (C 1 -C 4 ) carbonyl, hydroxycarbonyl, thiol, alkyl (dC 4 ) thio, amido, amino, guanidine, a phenyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, an indolyl radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls, an imidazolyl radical, a pyrrolinyl radical optionally substituted with a C 1 -C 2 alkyl group;
- R ' 9 represents a hydrogen or an alkyl radical in dC 4 optionally substituted with a hydroxysulfonyl radical
- - Rio represents a hydrogen or an alkyl radical in dC 4 ;
- R ' 9 and Rg may form together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a saturated 5-membered heterocycle
- R12 represents:
- a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical preferably substituted by one or more hydroxyl, thiol, alkyl (dC 4 ) thio, amido or amino groups, a phenyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls, an indolyl radical optionally substituted with a or more hydroxyl, an imidazolyl radical, a pyrrolinyl radical optionally substituted with a C 1 -C 2 alkyl group;
- X represents a sulfur or nitrogen atom.
- R 8 and R 12 may optionally form a saturated carbon ring with 5, 6, 7 members.
- R 12 represents an alkyl radical defined as above and very particularly an amino acid residue and / or their corresponding methyl or ethyl ester chosen from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartate, cysteine, glutamate, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, pyrrolysine, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, leucine, isoleucine
- the compound of formula (IIIc) represents a dipeptide, an oligopeptide.
- Ri 4 , Ris, Ri6 represent independently of each other:
- a hydrocarbon radical -C 2 o linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated and / or unsaturated, optionally containing from 1 to 5 double carbon-carbon bonds, optionally aromatic, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably selected from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, C S, SO, SO 2 or combinations thereof, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl or alkoxy group -C 2, said alkyl radicals R 13 and R 14 or R 4 and R 15 or R 5 and R 16 may optionally form, with the carbon atom to which each is attached, a heterocycle 5 or 7-membered, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function; more particularly an alkyl radical in CIC-10, optionally substituted; and preferably,
- X represents a nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur atom.
- R17 represents:
- a hydrocarbon radical C Ci 8 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and optionally comprising one to five carbon-carbon double bonds conjugated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or a plurality of groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably selected from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, C S, SO, SO 2 or combinations thereof; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function; more particularly R 17 represents a hydrogen, an alkyl radical in CIC-10, linear or branched, optionally substituted; and preferably, hydrogen, a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl group, preferably from 1 to 2 hydroxyl groups;
- a linear alkyl radical -C 8 branched or optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably selected from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, C S, SO, SO 2 or combinations thereof, optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group or alkoxy group in dC 2 ; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function,
- - n is an integer between 0 and 5.
- the radicals R 16 and R 17 may optionally form with the carbon atom for R 16 and the atom X for the radical R 17 to which each is attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle saturated or unsaturated optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen.
- the R 8 and R 15 radicals may optionally form, with the atom of nitrogen to R 18 and the carbon atom of the radical R15 which each is attached, a 5- or 6-membered, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen.
- R19 represents:
- a linear alkyl radical -C 8 branched or optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably selected from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, C S, SO, SO 2 or combinations thereof, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group or C 1 -C 2 alkoxy; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function,
- - m is an integer between 0 and 7.
- radicals R 13 and R 14 may optionally form, with the carbon atom to R 13 and R 14 to which these substituents are attached, a 5- or 6-membered saturated.
- radicals R 13, R 14, R 15 and R 16 independently of one another, may also represent a hydroxyl radical, an alkoxy (CrC 4 ) carbonyl radical, a carboxaldehyde radical and a (C 1 -C 3 ) alkoxy radical.
- X represents an oxygen atom, an SH or OH group, a methylene group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl radical.
- R 8 form a 5- or 6-membered ring optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy (methyl), preferably 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups (methyl).
- the radicals R 6 and R 18 or R 3 and R 18 may optionally form, with the carbon atom to R 16 (or R 13) and the nitrogen atom to the radical R 8 to which each is attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen.
- the amine of formula (IIIf) can a ⁇ -aminoalcohol resulting from the reduction of the acid or ester function to alcohol of one of the twenty esterified or non-esterified amino acids.
- o is an integer between 0 and 5.
- v is an integer of 1 or 2. When v is 2 then Ri 8 is hydrogen.
- radicals R 13, R 14, R 15 and R 16 independently of one another, may also represent a hydroxyl radical, a (C 1 -C 4 ) alkoxycarbonyl radical, a carboxaldehyde radical or a C 1 -C 3 alkoxy radical;
- a hydrocarbon radical C1-C20 linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated and / or unsaturated, optionally containing from 1 to 5 double carbon-carbon bonds, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably chosen from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, C S, SO, S0 2 or combinations thereof, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group or C1-C2, in particular an alkyl radical C1-C1 0, optionally substituted; and preferably, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, preferably from 1 to 2 hydroxyl groups;
- R21 and R22 may optionally form with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 7-membered heterocycle, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from the 'nitrogen; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function,
- p is an integer between 1 and 10.
- the alkyl radicals R 6 and R 21 may optionally form, with the carbon atom to R 16 and the nitrogen atom to the radical R21 which each is attached, a 5- or 6 links, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen.
- the alkyl radicals R 8 and R 21 may optionally form, with the first nitrogen atom for R 18 and the latter nitrogen atom to the radical R21 which each is attached, a heterocycle comprising at 5 to 14-membered, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical or different from nitrogen.
- R23 and R 2 4 represent independently of one another:
- an optionally substituted C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably chosen from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, SO , S0 2 or combinations thereof; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function;
- R-CO- an alkylcarbonyl radical in which R represents an alkyl radical in d
- halogen atom preferably chosen from bromine, chlorine or fluorine.
- RCO-NR'- An alkylcarbonylamino group (RCO-NR'-) in which the radical R represents an alkyl radical in C1-C4 and R 'represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl C1-C4;
- Y represents a carbon or nitrogen atom
- z, z ', z "independently of one another represents a carbon atom, a nitrogen atom or a nitrogen atom substituted with a hydrogen
- q is an integer between 0 and 2; when q is less than 2, the unsubstituted carbon atom (s) carry (s) a hydrogen atom
- q ' is an integer equal to 0 or 1; when q 'is less than 1, the unsubstituted carbon atom (s) carry (s) a hydrogen atom.
- the amine or amines are chosen from amino polymers, as well as their addition salts, and in particular from polylysine; chitosan; polyethoxylated amines, such as carboxyPEG, amino, carboxy, amino, carboxy, amino; or their combinations.
- the amine or amines are chosen from purine bases, in particular chosen from adenine, adenosine, guanine, guanosine G, thymine, thymidine T, uracil, uridine U, cytosine, cytidine C, their addition salts, and combinations thereof.
- the amines that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from the compounds of formulas (IIIa) and, in particular, asparagine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, pyrrolysine, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and their addition salts.
- the compounds of formula (IIIa) are preferably:
- the amines used are mule (IIIb) and more particularly those listed below:
- the amines used are ormule lllc, all those listed below
- the amines used are of formula (Nie) and in particular, chosen from the following acids, their enantiomers if they exist, as well as their salts, their hydrates: (1-aminoethyl) ) phosphonic, (aminomethyl) phosphonic, (1-amino-1-cyclohexyl) phosphonic acid, (1-aminopropyl) phosphonic acid, (1-aminobutyl) phosphonic acid, imino-bis (methylphosphonic), (1-amino-2-methylpropyl) phosphonic acid, (1-amino-2-phenylethyl) phosphonic acid, (1-amino-1-methylethyl) phosphonic acid, (1-amino-3-methylbutyl) phosphonic acid, 1-amino-benzyl phosphonic acid, 1-amino hexyl phosphonic acid, diethyl ether (aminoethyl) phosphonic acid
- the amines used are of formula (IIIf) and in particular, chosen from the following compounds, their enantiomers if they exist, as well as their salts, their hydrates: isopropanolamine, isopropylamine, methylethanolamine, methylglucamine, stearamine,, tromethamine, promethazine, 1,3-dimethylpentylamine, octodrine, spermidine, theanine, octamylamine, 2-amino-1-phenylpropane-1,3-diol, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-yl amino-2-methylpropane, 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl) propane-1,3-diol tris, 2-amino-1,3-dihydroxy-2-ethylpropane, 2-amino-3-methylbutan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, phenylglycinol, 2-a
- the amines used are of formula (IIIg) in particular chosen from aminopropyl triethoxysilane, (aminomethyl) trimethylsilane, 2- (trimethylsilyl) ethanamine, 3- (trimethylsilyl) propan-1, and amine, 4- (triethoxysilyl) butan-1-amino, N- [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] ethylene diamine, 3- (trimethoxysilyl) propylamine, 3-triethoxysilyl-1-propanamine, (3-methylaminopropyl) trimethoxysilane, and their mixtures.
- formula (IIIg) in particular chosen from aminopropyl triethoxysilane, (aminomethyl) trimethylsilane, 2- (trimethylsilyl) ethanamine, 3- (trimethylsilyl) propan-1, and amine, 4- (triethoxysilyl) butan-1-amino, N- [3- (trimethoxy
- the amines used are of formula (IIIh) and in particular the amines below, their enantiomers if they exist, as well as their salts, their hydrates: gerenterine, N- [ 3-aminopropyl] -1,4-butane-diamine, 1,4-butanediamine, 4- (ethylamino) -N-butylamine, 2- [3- (2-hydroxy-1,1-bis-hydroxymethylethylamino) - propylamino] -2-hydroxymethyl-propane-1,3-diol, 1, 4,8, 1-tetraazacyclotetradecane, 1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,3-diamino-2-hydroxypropane, N, N'-bis (2-aminoethyl) propane-1,3-diamine, 3-methylamino propylamine, 1,3-bisamino propane, N, N'-dimethyltrimethylened
- the amines used are of formula (UN) and / or ( ⁇ ') and in particular the compounds listed below, their enantiomers if they exist, as well as their salts, their hydrates alpha-pyridylamine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-nicotinic acid, 2-amino-3-methylpyridine, 6-methoxy-3-pyridylamine, 3-aminopyridine, 3-amino-4-pyridinylamine, 2, 5-aminopyridine, gamma-pyridylamine, 2,3-dimethylpyridine-4-amine, amino (4-) salicylic acid, methylpara-amino benzoate, benzocaine, aminobenzoic acid, 4-amino-M-anisic acid, 4-amino acid 3-hydroxy-benzoic acid, 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid methyl ester, methyl 4-amino-3-methoxybenzene carboxy
- amines in the form of salts or not, lauroyl Ethylenediamine, octopamine, oleamine, palmitamine, 2- (2-aminoethoxy) ethanol, 2-amino-4,5-dimethylthiazole, hexetidine, mecamylamine, tranylcypromine, triamterene methyl [2- (3-trimethoxysilylpropylamino) ethylamino], bis (triethoxysilylpropyl) amine, N1 - (3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl) hexane-1,6-diamine, diethylene triaminopropyl trimethoxy silane, N- (3-triethoxysilylpropyl) ethylene diamine, N- (3-trimethoxysilylethyl) ethylenediamine.
- the primary or secondary amine or amines are chosen from compounds of formula (NI) and especially from compounds of formula (IIIb), (IIIc) with more particularly X representing a nitrogen atom, (IIId) where X represents more particularly a nitrogen or oxygen atom, (Nie), (IIIf) with X representing very particularly an oxygen atom, OH or a methylene group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl, (IIIg), (IIIh) and (UN ') radical, alone or as a mixture.
- NI compounds of formula (NI) and especially from compounds of formula (IIIb), (IIIc) with more particularly X representing a nitrogen atom, (IIId) where X represents more particularly a nitrogen or oxygen atom, (Nie), (IIIf) with X representing very particularly an oxygen atom, OH or a methylene group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl, (IIIg), (IIIh) and (UN ') radical, alone or as a mixture.
- the content of amine (s) primary (s) or secondary (s), ammonia, hydroxylamine, present (s) in the composition is between 0.001 and 65% by weight; and preferably between 0.001 and 30% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
- composition comprising the compound (s) of formulas (I) and / or (II) may optionally comprise one or more salts.
- the anions comprising these salts can be both inorganic (chloride, carbonate, hydrogencarbonate, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, silicate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, etc.) with the exception of hydroxide, which are organic (aspartate, formate, acetate, lactate, citrate, gluconate, succinate, malate, fumarate, orotate ).
- the cations that make up these salts can be derived from alkali metals (preferably lithium, sodium, potassium), alkaline earth metals (preferably magnesium, calcium) or transition metals (scandium, titanium, vanadium, manganese). , iron, cobalt, nickel, copper, zinc, silver, gold). Other cations may also form salts such as ammoniums.
- the cations will be chosen from alkali metals (lithium, sodium, potassium), alkaline earth metals (magnesium, calcium), ammoniums, as well as the following transition metals: manganese, iron, copper, zinc, silver and gold.
- these salts are chosen from alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts, carbonate, hydrogencarbonate, chloride, sulfate, silicate, monobasic phosphate, acetate, and mixtures thereof.
- said salts are chosen from lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium carbonate; sodium hydrogencarbonates, potassium; calcium chloride, lithium, sodium; ammonium, sodium, magnesium sulphate; sodium silicate; sodium phosphate monobasic, potassium; sodium acetate.
- their content represents 0.001 and 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, and even more preferably between 0.001 and 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
- the cosmetically acceptable medium generally comprises at least water or a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent.
- organic solvents that may be mentioned are lower C 1 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
- the solvents when they are present are preferably present in proportions preferably of between 1 and 99% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, and still more preferably between 5 and 95% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. the composition.
- composition used in the process according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, anionic polymers.
- conditioning agents such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or not, such as amino silicones, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifying agents, polymers conductors.
- the adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- the pH of the composition is generally between 3 and 14 approximately, and preferably between 4 and 1 1 approximately, more preferably between 4 and 10. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalinizing agents usually used in dyeing of keratinous fibers or else using conventional buffer systems.
- acidifying agents mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.
- mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.
- alkalinizing agents for example, ammonia, alkaline carbonates, the amines mentioned above.
- composition may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquid, cream, gel, or in any other form suitable for dyeing keratinous fibers, and especially hair.
- composition used in the process according to the invention may also comprise one or more oxidizing agents.
- oxidizing agents we speak of ready-to-use compositions.
- the ready-to-use composition is obtained by extemporaneous mixing, prior to application, of a composition previously described, with at least one composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.
- the oxidizing agent is preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for example alkali or alkaline earth metal persulfates, perborates and percarbonates. like sodium, potassium, magnesium.
- This oxidizing agent is advantageously constituted by hydrogen peroxide in aqueous solution (hydrogen peroxide), the titre of which may vary, more particularly, from 1 to 40 volumes, and even more preferably from 5 to 40 volumes.
- composition used in the invention may result from the extemporaneous mixing of several compositions.
- composition which has just been described is therefore applied to human keratin fibers, in particular the hair.
- the composition applied does not comprise an oxidizing agent.
- This embodiment is appropriate especially in the case where the composition does not comprise oxidation dye (bases / couplers). This is the preferred embodiment.
- the ready-to-use composition which has been described above and which is obtained by extemporaneous mixing before application of the composition previously described without any oxidizing agent, with a coating, is applied to the fibers.
- oxidizing composition This embodiment is particularly suitable in the case where the composition comprises one or more oxidation dyes (bases / couplers) or that it is desired to obtain a lightening effect.
- the composition without oxidizing agent is applied, and an oxidizing composition, successively and without intermediate rinsing.
- the oxidizing composition used comprises one or more oxidizing agents as defined above.
- the pH of the oxidizing composition is less than 7.
- the oxidizing composition may be in the form of a solution, an emulsion or a gel.
- It may optionally comprise one or more additives conventionally used in the field of human keratin fiber staining, depending on the desired dosage form. We can again refer to the list of additives given above.
- the The mixture applied to the fibers is left in place for a period, in general, of the order of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 10 minutes to 30 minutes.
- this is generally close to ambient temperature, for example between 20 ° C. and 45 ° C.
- the method according to the invention consists in applying to the treated fibers an external stimulus or a combination of several of them, chosen from a thermal stimulus; a luminous stimulus; a chemical stimulus in the presence of organic salts, inorganic salts; or their combinations.
- This or these stimuli can be implemented during the application of the composition, after its application or during and after the application of the composition.
- the stimulus is thermal.
- the temperature may vary between 30 and 200 ° C, more particularly between 30 and 180 ° C.
- This operation can be carried out using for example a heating helmet, an infra-red lamp, a hair straightener or curling iron.
- the stimulus is bright.
- UVA radiation in particular with an irradiance of between 0.01 and 0.40 milliwatt / cm 2 , preferably between 0.1 and 0.2 milliwatt / cm 2 , delivered by continuous spectrum lamps or by line-spectrum lamps
- UVB radiation in particular with an irradiance of between 0.01 and 0.20 milliwatt / cm 2 , preferably between 0.01 and 0 , 1 milliwatt / cm 2 ).
- the stimulus is chemical, that is to say that it implements one or more organic salts, inorganic salts or combinations thereof.
- the stimulus is chemical, that is to say that it implements one or more organic salts, inorganic salts or combinations thereof.
- these compounds are alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts, carbonate, hydrogencarbonate, chloride, sulfate, silicate, monobasic phosphate, acetate.
- this stimulus is carried out by implementing a composition, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one salt selected from lithium carbonate, sodium, potassium, calcium, ammonium; sodium hydrogencarbonates, potassium; calcium chloride, lithium, sodium; ammonium, sodium, magnesium sulphate; sodium silicate; sodium phosphate monobasic, potassium; sodium acetate.
- a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one salt selected from lithium carbonate, sodium, potassium, calcium, ammonium; sodium hydrogencarbonates, potassium; calcium chloride, lithium, sodium; ammonium, sodium, magnesium sulphate; sodium silicate; sodium phosphate monobasic, potassium; sodium acetate.
- the composition advantageously has a salt content ranging from 0.001 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, and even more preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. It is not beyond the scope of the present invention by performing several successive steps combining stimuli different from each other.
- the external stimulus is to combine or not a thermal stimulus (more particularly at a temperature above 70 ° C) and then bright; a thermal stimulus (more particularly at a temperature below 70 ° C) and a chemical stimulus.
- the total duration of the application of the external stimulus is usually between 1 minute and 3 minutes. hours, preferably between 5 minutes and one hour.
- the keratinous fibers may be rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo, rinsed with water and dried or left to dry.
- the subject of the present invention is also a composition
- a cosmetically acceptable medium comprising at least water, from 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, of one or more compounds of formula (II) below, as well as the addition salts:
- R 5 represents a group -CO 2 R ' 6 in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group;
- R 6 represents a hydrogen, a -COR 2 R ' 6 group in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group.
- the invention also relates to the use of compounds of formula (II) as well as their addition salts, for the dyeing of human keratinous fibers, in particular the hair.
- the coloring compositions are obtained by dissolving the Genipa americana extract, optionally the amine (5 ⁇ 10 -3 mol / l or 10 -2 mol / l), and optionally the salt (5 ⁇ 10 -3 mol / l).
- composition is applied to natural gray hair and / or permed with 90% white hair, (1 g of wick per 10 g of solution).
- Genipa americana extracts Two very weakly colored Genipa americana extracts, one containing 0.35% genipin and the other 17% genipin were studied.
- Immature Genipa americana fruits (10 g) are cut into pieces, frozen, freeze-dried and milled before being extracted with milliQ water.
- the suspension is stirred for one hour at room temperature.
- the raw material is then separated from the solvent by centrifugation at 7500 rpm for 15 minutes, the supernatant is then filtered through Whatman GF / C filter.
- This filtered extract is then frozen and freeze-dried.
- Immature Genipa americana fruits (100 g) are cut into pieces, frozen, freeze-dried and ground before being extracted with milliQ water.
- the suspension is stirred for one hour at room temperature.
- the raw material is then separated from the solvent by centrifugation at 7500 rpm for 15 minutes, the supernatant is then filtered through Whatman GF / C filter.
- This filtered extract is then frozen and freeze-dried.
- HPLC analysis indicates that the extract is enriched to 17% genipin.
- the staining composition is obtained by dissolving in 10 ml of a pH 9 buffer solution the extract of Genipa americana amine and salt.
- Immature Genipa americana fruits (200 g) are cut into pieces, frozen, freeze-dried and milled before being extracted with milliQ water.
- the suspension is stirred for one hour at room temperature.
- the raw material is then separated from the solvent by centrifugation at 7500 rpm for 15 minutes, the supernatant is then filtered through Whatman GF / C filter.
- This filtered extract is then frozen and freeze-dried.
- HPLC analysis indicates that the extract is enriched to the extent of 5.3% genipin.
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Abstract
The invention relates to a method for dyeing human keratin fibres, comprising the application of a composition containing, in a cosmetically suitable medium, a vegetable extract including at least one compound having formula (I) and/or formula (II) or the addition salts thereof, combined with an external heat, light and/or chemical stimulus produced using one or more organic and/or inorganic salts, in which formulae: R1 represents a hydrogen, a methyl, a hydroxymethyl, -CH2-glucose, an aldehyde group, -CO2R4 with R4 representing hydrogen or an alkyl radical at C1-C2; R2 represents a hydrogen, hydroxyl, glucose; R3, identical or non-identical, represent a hydrogen, hydroxyl, alkyl(C1-C4)oxy, the hydroxyl number not exceeding 2; n is an integer between 1 and 5; R5 represents -CO2R'6 with R'6 representing a hydrogen, alkyl at C1-C2, an alkaline metal cation, an ammonium group; and R6 represents a hydrogen, -CO2R'6 with R'6 representing a hydrogen, an alkyl at C1-C2, an alkaline metal cation, an ammonium group. The invention also relates to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more compounds having the aforementioned formula (II), as well as to the use of such compounds for the dyeing of human keratin fibres.
Description
PROCEDE DE COLORATION METTANT EN JEU DES COLORANTS IRIDOIDES NON GLYCOSYLES, COMPOSITION TINCTORIALES ET UTILISATION COLORING PROCESS INVOLVING NON-GLYCOSYLIC IRIDOID COLORANTS, TINCTORIAL COMPOSITION AND USE
La présente invention a pour objet un procédé de coloration des fibres kératiniques dans lequel on applique une composition comprenant au moins un ou plusieurs colorant(s) de la famille des iridoïdes non glycosylés (en position anomérique) extrait de plantes, la couleur définitive étant révélée par application d'un traitement thermique, lumineux et/ou chimique. The subject of the present invention is a method for dyeing keratinous fibers in which a composition comprising at least one or more dyes of the family of non-glycosylated iridoids (in the anomeric position) extracted from plants is applied, the final color being revealed. by applying a heat, light and / or chemical treatment.
Il existe plusieurs types de procédés de coloration des fibres kératiniques. There are several types of keratinous fiber staining processes.
Parmi les plus classiques, on peut citer la coloration d'oxydation (ou permanente) qui consiste à employer un ou plusieurs précurseurs de colorant d'oxydation, plus particulièrement une ou plusieurs bases d'oxydation éventuellement associées à un ou plusieurs coupleurs. Among the more conventional, there may be mentioned oxidation dyeing (or permanent) which consists in using one or more oxidation dye precursors, more particularly one or more oxidation bases optionally associated with one or more couplers.
Habituellement, des bases d'oxydation sont choisies parmi les ortho- ou para- phénylènediamines, les ortho- ou para-aminophénols ainsi que des composés hétérocycliques. Ces bases d'oxydation sont des composés incolores ou faiblement colorés qui, associés à des produits oxydants, permettent d'accéder à des espèces colorées, par un processus de condensation oxydative. Usually, oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols as well as heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, make it possible to access colored species by a process of oxidative condensation.
Bien souvent, on fait varier les nuances obtenues avec ces bases d'oxydation en les associant à un ou plusieurs coupleurs, ces derniers étant choisis notamment parmi les méta-diamines aromatiques, les méta-aminophénols, les méta-diphénols et certains composés hétérocycliques, tels que des composés indoliques. Very often, the shades obtained with these oxidation bases are varied by combining them with one or more couplers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.
La variété des molécules mises en jeu au niveau des bases d'oxydation et des coupleurs permet l'obtention d'une riche palette de couleurs. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained.
On peut également citer la coloration directe (ou semi-permanente) qui utilise des colorants directs. Les composés généralement employés sont choisis parmi les colorants directs nitrés benzéniques, anthraquinoniques, nitropyridiniques, azoïques, méthiniques, azométhiniques, xanthéniques, acridiniques, aziniques ou triarylméthaniques. Ce sont des molécules colorées et colorantes, ayant une certaine affinité pour les fibres, mais qui, du fait de leur taille, restent localisées plutôt en surface de la fibre. Les colorations obtenues sont donc moins tenaces que celles obtenues avec des colorants d'oxydation. Il n'est pas non plus rare d'observer un virage de couleur dès lors que l'on mélange deux colorants directs de couleur complémentaire et de structure chimique différente. It may also be mentioned direct dyeing (or semi-permanent) which uses direct dyes. The compounds generally employed are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine, azomethine, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes. They are colored and coloring molecules, having a certain affinity for the fibers, but which, because of their size, remain localized rather on the surface of the fiber. The colorations obtained are therefore less stubborn than those obtained with oxidation dyes. It is also not uncommon to observe a color shift when mixing two direct dyes of complementary color and different chemical structure.
L'inconvénient de ces procédés de coloration (permanente, semi-permanente) est qu'ils mettent en jeu des espèces chimiques qui ne sont pas naturelles. Par conséquent, on peut être confronté à des problèmes de sensibilisation de la peau et du cuir chevelu de la personne sur laquelle on réalise le traitement de coloration. The disadvantage of these coloring processes (permanent, semi-permanent) is that they involve chemical species that are not natural. Therefore, one may be confronted with problems of sensitization of the skin and scalp of the person on whom the coloring treatment is carried out.
Ainsi, depuis quelques années, on a pu observer un intérêt grandissant pour les composés naturels utilisables en tant que colorant capillaire. Thus, in recent years, there has been a growing interest in natural compounds usable as a hair dye.
Par exemple, dans la demande EP 440 494, il est décrit un procédé de coloration capillaire mettant en œuvre une composition comprenant au moins un composé de type
(seco)iridoïde-glycoside ou (séco)iridoïde non glycosylé (encore appelé aglycon), extrait de plantes comme les Rubiaceae, Euphorbiaceae, Valerianaceae, Cornaceae, Gentianaceae, Caprifoliaceae, Oleaceae, Ericaceae, Loganiaceae, etc. Ces composés se trouvent sous forme purifiée et non présents dans un extrait végétal. For example, in the application EP 440 494, there is described a hair dyeing method using a composition comprising at least one compound of type (seco) Iridoide-glycoside or (uno) non-glycosylated iridoid (also called aglycon), extracted from plants such as Rubiaceae, Euphorbiaceae, Valerianaceae, Cornaceae, Gentianaceae, Caprifoliaceae, Oleaceae, Ericaceae, Loganiaceae, etc. These compounds are in purified form and not present in a plant extract.
Le problème rencontré avec de telles colorations est qu'elles sont peu intenses ou nécessitent l'application répétée sur plusieurs jours ou plusieurs semaines (voir par exemple le brevet JP 06056638, EP 440 494), soit une application pouvant nuire à l'intégrité du cheveu (application 10 minutes à 180°C - voir à titre d'exemple le brevet JP 05339134) de la composition pour obtenir une coloration satisfaisante. The problem with such stains is that they are of low intensity or require repeated application over several days or weeks (see, for example, JP 06056638, EP 440 494), an application which may be detrimental to the integrity of the body. hair (application for 10 minutes at 180 ° C - see for example JP 05339134) of the composition to obtain a satisfactory coloration.
De plus, on peut difficilement atteindre des nuances naturelles, ce qui représente un avantage recherché. Et quand de telles nuances sont atteintes, il n'est pas rare d'observer un virage de couleur important au cours du temps. In addition, it is difficult to achieve natural nuances, which is a desired advantage. And when such nuances are achieved, it is not uncommon to observe a significant color shift over time.
La présente invention a donc pour but de remédier aux inconvénients décrits ci- dessus. The present invention therefore aims to overcome the disadvantages described above.
En effet, il a été découvert de manière surprenante que l'on pouvait améliorer de manière importante la montée de la génipine et de ses dérivés, et d'une façon générale tout extrait naturel en contenant, en appliquant un stimulus externe (stimulus lumineux, stimulus thermique, stimulus chimique) ou la combinaison de plusieurs d'entre eux. On a également constaté qu'en associant ces colorants ou extraits avec une aminé primaire ou secondaire particulière, on pouvait améliorer encore la montée du colorant. In fact, it has surprisingly been discovered that the rise of genipin and its derivatives, and in a general way any natural extract containing it, can be significantly improved by applying an external stimulus (luminous stimulus, thermal stimulus, chemical stimulus) or the combination of several of them. It has also been found that by combining these dyes or extracts with a particular primary or secondary amine, the rise of the dye can be further improved.
D'autre part, il a été découvert de manière surprenante que l'on pouvait étendre de manière substantielle la gamme de couleurs obtenue avec la genipine, ses dérivés et tout extrait naturel en contenant, en faisant varier la nature de l'aminé utilisée (ammoniaque, aminé primaire et secondaire). On the other hand, it has surprisingly been found that the range of colors obtained with genipin, its derivatives and any natural extract containing it can be substantially extended by varying the nature of the amine used ( ammonia, primary and secondary amine).
On a également constaté que la structure des fibres traitées n'était pas altérée par la coloration selon l'invention. It was also found that the structure of the treated fibers was not impaired by the coloring according to the invention.
La présente invention a donc pour objet un procédé de coloration de fibres kératiniques humaines dans lequel on applique une composition comprenant, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, un extrait végétal comprenant au moins un composé de formule (I) et/ou de formule (II), ou leurs sels d'addition, en combinaison avec au moins un stimulus externe, choisi parmi : The subject of the present invention is therefore a process for staining human keratin fibers in which a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a plant extract comprising at least one compound of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) is applied. or their addition salts, in combination with at least one external stimulus, selected from:
Stimulus thermique ; Thermal stimulus;
Stimulus lumineux ; Luminous stimulus;
un ou plusieurs sels organiques, d'un ou plusieurs sels inorganiques (stimulus chimique) ; one or more organic salts, one or more inorganic salts (chemical stimulus);
Les formules (I) et (II) étant les suivantes :
Formulas (I) and (II) being the following:
Formules (I) et/ou (II) dans lesquelles : Formulas (I) and / or (II) in which:
Ri représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical méthyle, un radical hydroxyméthyle, un groupement aldéhyde ; un groupement -C02R4 dans lequel R4 représente un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en CrC2 ; un groupement -CH2-glucose ; R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical, a hydroxymethyl radical, an aldehyde group; a group -C0 2 R 4 in which R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical; a -CH 2 -glucose group;
R2 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical hydroxyle, un radical glucose ; R3, identiques ou non, représentent un radical hydroxyle, un radical alkyl(Ci- C4)oxy ; R 2 represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a glucose radical; R 3 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl radical or a (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl radical;
n est un entier égale à 1 ou 2 ; Lorsque n est inférieur à 2, le ou les atomes de carbone non substitués porte(nt) un atome d'hydrogène. n is an integer equal to 1 or 2; When n is less than 2, the unsubstituted carbon atom (s) carry (s) a hydrogen atom.
R5 représente un groupement -C02R'6 dans lequel R'6 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC2, un cation de métal alcalin, un groupement ammonium ; R 5 represents a group -CO 2 R ' 6 in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation or an ammonium group;
R6 représente un hydrogène, un groupement -C02R'6 dans lequel R'6 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC2, un cation de métal alcalin, un groupement ammonium. R 6 represents a hydrogen, a group -C0 2 R ' 6 in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group.
Un autre objet de la présente invention est représenté par une composition comprenant, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable comprenant au moins de l'eau, de 0,001 à 10% en poids par rapport au poids de la composition, d'un ou plusieurs composés de formule (II) ci-dessous, ou ses sels d'addition : Another subject of the present invention is represented by a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium comprising at least water, from 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, of one or more compounds of formula (II) below, or its addition salts:
Formule (II) dans laquelle : Formula (II) in which:
• R5 représente un groupement -C02R'6 dans lequel R'6 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC2, un cation de métal alcalin, un groupement ammonium ; R 5 represents a group -CO 2 R ' 6 in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation or an ammonium group;
• R6 représente un hydrogène, un groupement -C02R'6 dans lequel R'6 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC2, un cation de métal alcalin, un groupement ammonium. • R 6 represents a hydrogen, a group -C0 2 R ' 6 in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group.
D'autres caractéristiques et avantages de l'invention apparaîtront plus clairement à la lecture de la description et des exemples qui suivent.
Il est à noter, à moins d'une autre indication, que les bornes des domaines de valeurs donnés dans la description, sont comprises dans les domaines. Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. It should be noted, unless otherwise indicated, that the limits of the value domains given in the description are included in the fields.
Comme indiqué auparavant, le procédé selon l'invention est mis en œuvre à partir d'une composition comprenant, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, un extrait végétal comprenant au moins un composé de formule (I) et/ou de formule (II) précitées. As indicated above, the process according to the invention is carried out starting from a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a plant extract comprising at least one compound of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) above. .
Il est à noter que les composés mis en œuvre dans le procédé selon l'invention, et en particulier ceux de formule (I) et/ou de formule (II), sont dits non glycosylés dans la mesure où ils ne portent pas de motifs sucre sur l'atome d'oxygène en position anomérique (sur l'atome de carbone en alpha de l'atome d'oxygène intracyclique). It should be noted that the compounds used in the process according to the invention, and in particular those of formula (I) and / or of formula (II), are said to be unglycosylated insofar as they do not carry any patterns. sugar on the oxygen atom in the anomeric position (on the carbon atom alpha of the intracyclic oxygen atom).
De préférence, Ri représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical méthyle, un radical hydroxyméthyle, un groupement aldéhyde ; un groupement hydroxycarbonyle, un groupement méthoxycarbonyle, un groupement éthoxycarbonyle. Preferably, R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical, a hydroxymethyl radical or an aldehyde group; a hydroxycarbonyl group, a methoxycarbonyl group, an ethoxycarbonyl group.
De préférence, R2 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical hydroxyle. Preferably, R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl radical.
De préférence, R3 identiques ou non, représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un groupement hydroxyle, un groupement méthoxy, un groupement éthoxy, un groupement n-butyloxy. Preferably, R 3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a methoxy group, an ethoxy group or an n-butyloxy group.
De préférence R5 représente un radical hydroxycarbonyle, un radical méthoxycarbonyle, un radical éthoxycarbonyle. Preferably, R 5 represents a hydroxycarbonyl radical, a methoxycarbonyl radical and an ethoxycarbonyl radical.
De préférence, R6 représente un hydrogène, un radical hydroxycarbonyle, un radical méthoxycarbonyle, un radical éthoxycarbonyle. Preferably, R 6 represents a hydrogen, a hydroxycarbonyl radical, a methoxycarbonyl radical or an ethoxycarbonyl radical.
Conformément à un mode de réalisation particulièrement avantageux de l'invention, le composé de formule (I) et/ou de formule (II) est la génipine (Ri représente un groupement méthoxycarbonyle) et/ou l'acide géniposique ou l'un de ses sels (Ri représente un groupement carboxylique sous forme acide ou salifiée) et/ou l'acide génipique (R5 représente un radical hydroxycarbonyle et R6, un atome d'hydrogène) et/ou l'acide génipinique (R5 représente un radical hydroxycarbonyle et R6, un radical méthoxycarbonyle). According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the compound of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) is genipin (R 1 represents a methoxycarbonyl group) and / or genipotic acid or one of its salts (R 1 represents a carboxylic group in acid or salified form) and / or genipic acid (R 5 represents a hydroxycarbonyl radical and R 6 , a hydrogen atom) and / or genipinic acid (R 5 represents a hydroxycarbonyl radical and R 6 , a methoxycarbonyl radical).
Les composés de formule (I) et/ou de formule (II) se trouvent en général dans des extraits végétaux provenant des plantes suivantes : Veronica persica ; Genipa americana ; Apodytes dimidiata ; Randia canthioides ; Tarenna attenuata et de préférence Genipa americana. The compounds of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) are generally found in plant extracts from the following plants: Veronica persica; Genipa americana; Apodytes dimidiata; Randia canthioides; Tarenna attenuata and preferably Genipa americana.
A noter que par extrait, on désigne des jus, ou des poudres obtenues par une ou plusieurs opérations d'extraction, d'enrichissement, de concentration et éventuellement de séchage, à partir de substances naturelles végétales. It should be noted that, by extract, means juices, or powders obtained by one or more extraction, enrichment, concentration and possibly drying operations, from natural plant substances.
Le ou les composés de formule (I) et/ou de formule (II) peuvent être seuls ou en mélange, éventuellement en solution dans son/leur solvant d'extraction. The compound (s) of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) may be alone or as a mixture, optionally in solution in its extraction solvent.
Ces composés de formule (I) et/ou de formule (II) sont extraits des végétaux de manière connue en soi. These compounds of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) are extracted from plants in a manner known per se.
On pourra notamment se reporter au mode opératoire décrit dans la demande internationale WO 2005/105020.
Ainsi, dans le cas des parties aériennes, celles-ci sont lavées si nécessaire, soit broyées, éventuellement sous une forme congelée, soit coupées à température ambiante, puis mises à macération dans un solvant adéquat, en particulier l'éthanol ou l'eau, puis filtrées, concentrées et éventuellement séchées. It will be possible in particular to refer to the procedure described in the international application WO 2005/105020. Thus, in the case of the aerial parts, they are washed if necessary, or crushed, optionally in a frozen form, or cut at room temperature, and then macerated in a suitable solvent, in particular ethanol or water then filtered, concentrated and optionally dried.
Dans le cas plus particulier des fruits, ceux-ci sont éventuellement congelés, lavés à l'eau pour éliminer les impuretés présentes. On peut, éventuellement les stériliser, en particulier avec une solution comprenant de l'éthanol et du chlore. In the particular case of fruits, they are optionally frozen, washed with water to remove impurities present. It may optionally be sterilized, especially with a solution comprising ethanol and chlorine.
Pour l'extraction proprement dite, les fruits sont décongelés si nécessaire et pressés par exemple au moyen d'une presse hydraulique spécialement adaptée. Le jus ainsi récupéré est filtré, mis à dégazer en présence d'azote, cette opération évitant l'oxydation de la génipine ou de ses dérivés, en augmentant la quantité de gaz dissout. For the actual extraction, the fruits are defrosted if necessary and pressed for example by means of a specially adapted hydraulic press. The juice thus recovered is filtered, degassed in the presence of nitrogen, this operation avoiding the oxidation of genipin or its derivatives, increasing the amount of dissolved gas.
Le jus est ensuite conservé dans un emballage hermétique à l'abri de l'air. The juice is then stored in an airtight container protected from the air.
Le jus récupéré peut ensuite, le cas échéant, faire l'objet d'une étape de concentration et de séchage. The recovered juice can then, if necessary, be the subject of a concentration and drying step.
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention, l'extrait mis en œuvre est issu du Genipa americana. Dans ce cas, l'extrait est obtenu à partir du fruit immature de Genipa americana. La première étape de préparation de l'extrait consiste, à congeler préalablement le fruit et à réaliser une étape de cryobroyage par exemple à une température comprise entre -20°C et -200°C sur le fruit congelé. On recueille ainsi une poudre fine et homogène. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract used is derived from Genipa americana. In this case, the extract is obtained from the immature fruit of Genipa americana. The first step of preparation of the extract consists of freezing the fruit beforehand and carrying out a cryomilling step, for example at a temperature of between -20 ° C. and -200 ° C. on the frozen fruit. A fine and homogeneous powder is thus collected.
Une fois cette opération réalisée, le ou les actifs de formule (I) et/ou (II) sont extraits par exemple à l'eau. L'extrait est ensuite concentré puis éventuellement séché. Once this operation is performed, the active ingredient (s) of formula (I) and / or (II) are extracted for example with water. The extract is then concentrated and then optionally dried.
La teneur en composé de formule (I) et/ou de formule (II) dans l'extrait sec varie de 0,01 à 30 % en poids (extrait végétal séché). The content of compound of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) in the dry extract ranges from 0.01 to 30% by weight (dried plant extract).
La teneur en composé de formule (I) et/ou de formule (II) de la composition est comprise entre 0,001 et 10 % en poids par rapport au poids de la composition. The content of compound of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) of the composition is between 0.001 and 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
La composition tinctoriale peut en outre comprendre des colorants additionnels, différents des composés de formule (I) et/ou formule (II) précités. The dye composition may further comprise additional dyes, different from the compounds of formula (I) and / or formula (II) above.
Parmi ces colorants additionnels, on peut citer les colorants directs naturels ou synthétiques, les colorants d'oxydation avec les bases éventuellement associées à des coupleurs, ainsi que leurs combinaisons. Among these additional dyes, mention may be made of natural or synthetic direct dyes, oxidation dyes with bases possibly associated with couplers, as well as their combinations.
Ces colorants directs peuvent être par exemple choisis parmi les colorants directs nitrés benzéniques neutres, acides ou cationiques, les colorants directs azoïques neutres, acides ou cationiques, les colorants tétraazapentaméthiniques, les colorants quinoniques et en particulier anthraquinoniques neutres, acides ou cationiques, les colorants directs aziniques, les colorants directs triarylméthaniques, les colorants directs indoaminiques et les colorants directs naturels. These direct dyes may be, for example, chosen from neutral, acidic or cationic nitro-benzene direct dyes, neutral azo, acid or cationic direct dyes, tetraazapentamethine dyes, neutral or acidic or cationic quinone dyes, in particular neutral anthraquinones, direct dyes azines, triarylmethane direct dyes, direct indoamine dyes and natural direct dyes.
Parmi les colorants directs naturels, on peut citer la lawsone, la juglone, l'alizarine, la purpurine, l'acide carminique, l'acide kermésique, la purpurogalline, l'anthragallol, le protocatéchaldéhyde, l'indigo, l'isatine, la curcumine, la spinulosine, l'apigénidine, les chlorophylles, les chlorophyllines, les orcéines, l'hématéine, l'hématoxyline, la braziline, la
braziléine, les colorants du carthame (comme par exemple la carthamine), les flavonoïdes (avec par exemple la morine, l'apigénidine, le santal), les anthocyanes (du type de l'apigéninidine), les caroténoïdes, les tanins, le sorgho et le carmin de cochenille, ou leurs mélanges. On peut également utiliser les extraits ou décoctions contenant ces colorants naturels et notamment les cataplasmes ou extraits à base de henné. Among the natural direct dyes that may be mentioned are lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, anthragallol, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, orceins, haematein, hematoxylin, brazilin, braziléine, dyes of safflower (such as carthamine), flavonoids (with eg morine, apigenidine, sandalwood), anthocyanins (of the apigeninidine type), carotenoids, tannins, sorghum and cochineal carmine, or mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use the extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular poultices or extracts made from henna.
Parmi les bases d'oxydation, on peut citer les para-phénylènediamines, les bis- phénylalkylènediamines, les para-aminophénols, les bis-para-aminophénols, les ortho- aminophénols, les bases hétérocycliques et leurs sels d'addition. Among the oxidation bases that may be mentioned are para-phenylenediamines, bisphenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis-para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.
Parmi ces coupleurs, on peut notamment citer les méta-phénylènediamines, les méta-aminophénols, les méta-diphénols, les coupleurs naphtaléniques, les coupleurs hétérocycliques et leur sels d'addition. Among these couplers, there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.
La ou les bases d'oxydation présentes dans la composition tinctoriale sont en général présentes chacune en quantité comprise entre 0,001 à 10% en poids du poids total de la composition tinctoriale, de préférence entre 0,005 et 6% en poids. The oxidation base (s) present in the dyeing composition are in general each present in an amount of between 0.001% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition, preferably between 0.005% and 6% by weight.
Le ou les coupleurs sont chacun généralement présents en quantité comprise entre The coupler or couplers are each generally present in an amount between
0,001 et 10% en poids du poids total de la composition tinctoriale, de préférence entre 0,005 et 6%. 0.001 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the dyeing composition, preferably between 0.005 and 6%.
D'une manière générale, les sels d'addition des bases d'oxydation et des coupleurs utilisables dans le cadre de l'invention sont notamment choisis parmi les sels d'addition avec un acide tels que les chlorhydrates, les bromhydrates, les sulfates, les citrates, les succinates, les tartrates, les lactates, les tosylates, les benzènesulfonates, les phosphates et les acétates. In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen especially from the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
De préférence, la composition ne comprend pas de base d'oxydation ni de coupleur. Preferably, the composition does not comprise oxidation base or coupler.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulièrement avantageux de l'invention, la composition selon l'invention comprend au moins une aminé primaire, secondaire ou ses sels d'addition, de l'ammoniaque, de l'hydroxylamine, ou leurs mélanges. According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one primary amine, secondary or its addition salts, ammonia, hydroxylamine, or mixtures thereof.
D'une manière générale, les sels d'addition de ces composés aminés utilisables dans le cadre de l'invention sont notamment choisis parmi les sels d'addition avec un acide tels que les chlorhydrates, les bromhydrates, les sulfates, les citrates, les succinates, les tartrates, les lactates, les tosylates, les benzènesulfonates, les dodécylbenzènesulfonates, les phosphates et les acétates de préférence les chlorhydrates, les citrates, les succinates, les tartrates, les phosphates, les lactates. In general, the addition salts of these amine compounds that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen especially from acid addition salts such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, dodecylbenzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, preferably hydrochlorides, citrates, succinates, tartrates, phosphates, lactates.
En particulier, la ou les aminés primaires ou secondaires, utilisables dans le cadre de l'invention, sont choisies parmi les aminés de formule (III) qui sera détaillée ci- dessous, les polymères aminés, les bases puriques, ainsi que leurs sels d'addition, et leurs combinaisons. In particular, the primary or secondary amine or amines which can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from the amines of formula (III) which will be detailed below, the amino polymers, the purine bases, and their salts. addition, and their combinations.
En particulier, la formule (III) est la suivante : In particular, formula (III) is the following:
R'7R'8NH (III) R ' 7 R' 8 NH (III)
Formule (III) dans laquelle R'7, R'8, représentent indépendamment l'un de l'autre Formula (III) in which R ' 7 , R' 8 , represent independently of one another
- un atome d'hydrogène
- un radical hydrocarboné en C1-C20, linéaire, ramifié et/ou cyclique, saturé et/ou insaturé, aromatique ou non, pouvant contenir de 1 à 5 doubles liaisons carbone-carbone et/ou éventuellement substitué, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou par un ou plusieurs groupements comprenant au moins un hétéroatome ou groupement comprenant au moins un hétéroatome (de préférence choisi parmi l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, C=0, C=S, SO, S02 ou leurs combinaisons) ; lesdits radicaux R'7 et R'8 hydrocarbonés pouvant éventuellement former avec l'atome d'azote auquel chacun est rattaché, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 7 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé, éventuellement substitué, éventuellement aromatique, éventuellement condensé à un noyau aromatique ou hétéroaromatique à 6 chaînons, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote; le radical hydrocarboné ne comportant pas de fonction nitro, nitroso, peroxo ou diazo. - a hydrogen atom a linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated and / or unsaturated C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical, which may or may not be aromatic, may contain from 1 to 5 carbon-carbon and / or optionally substituted double bonds, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom or group comprising at least one heteroatom (preferably chosen from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, C = O, C = S, SO, S0 2 or combinations thereof); said hydrocarbon radicals R ' 7 and R' 8 possibly being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which each is attached, a 5- or 7-membered, optionally substituted, optionally aromatic, saturated or unsaturated heterocycle, optionally fused to an aromatic ring or heteroaromatic 6-membered ring, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen; the hydrocarbon radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function.
Les composés de formule (III) ne sont avantageusement pas des bases d'oxydation ni des coupleurs d'oxydation, tels que décrits précédemment. The compounds of formula (III) are advantageously not oxidation bases or oxidation couplers, as described above.
Parmi les groupements présents comme substituants des groupements hydrocarbonés, hétérocycliques, on peut citer les groupements : Among the groups present as substituents for hydrocarbon groups, heterocyclic, there may be mentioned the groups:
carboxylique, sous forme acide ou salifiée, carboxylic acid, in acid or salt form,
sulfonique, sous forme acide ou salifiée, sulphonic acid, in acid or salt form,
phosphonique, sous forme acide ou salifiée, phosphonic acid, in acid or salt form,
hydroxyle, hydroxyl,
alcoxy en C1-C4, C1-C4 alkoxy,
alcoxy (CrC8)carbonyle, alkoxy (CrC 8 ) carbonyl,
alkyl(CrC4)sulfonate, alkyl (CrC 4 ) sulfonate,
alkyl(CrC8)phosphonate, alkyl (CrC 8 ) phosphonate,
trialkyl(C C4)silyle, trialkyl (CC 4 ) silyl,
trialcoxy(CrC4)silanyle, trialkoxy (CrC 4 ) silanyl,
amino ; amino;
(di)alkyl(CrC4)amino (di) alkyl (CrC 4 ) amino
trialkyl(Ci-C4)ammonium, trialkyl (Ci-C 4 ) ammonium,
thiol, thiol,
alkyl(C C4)thio, alkyl (CC 4 ) thio,
aminosulfonyle, aminosulfonyl,
(di-) alkyl(CrC4)aminosulfonyle, (di-) alkyl (CrC 4 ) aminosulfonyl,
aminocarbonyle, aminocarbonyl,
(di-)alkyl(CrC4) aminocarbonyle (di-) alkyl (CrC 4 ) aminocarbonyl
alkyl(Ci-C4)carbonylamino, alkyl (Ci-C 4) alkoxycarbonylamino,
guanidine guanidine
uréido (N(R)2-CO-NR'-) dans lequel les radicaux R et R', indépendamment les uns des autres, représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C4, alky(d- C4)sulfonylamino ;
phényle, indolyle, pyrolynyle, imidazolyle éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs alkyle en CrC2, hydroxyle. ureido (N (R) 2 -CO-NR'-) in which the radicals R and R ', independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, alkyl (d-C 4 ) sulfonylamino; phenyl, indolyl, pyrolynyl, imidazolyl optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 2 alkyl, hydroxyl.
De préférence, les groupements présents comme substituants sont choisis parmi : carboxylique, sous forme acide ou salifiée, Preferably, the groups present as substituents are chosen from: carboxylic acid, in acid or salified form,
hydroxyle, hydroxyl,
alcoxy en C1-C4, C1-C4 alkoxy,
alcoxy (CrC8)carbonyle, alkoxy (CrC 8 ) carbonyl,
thiol, thiol,
alkyl(C C4)thio, alkyl (CC 4 ) thio,
amino, amino,
mono- et di- alkyl(CrC4)amino ; mono- and di-alkyl (CrC 4 ) amino;
aminocarbonyle, aminocarbonyl,
mono- et di- alkyl(Ci-C2)aminocarbonyle mono- and di-(C 1 -C 2 ) alkylaminocarbonyl
alkyl(Ci-C4)carbonylamino alkyl (C 1 -C 4 ) carbonylamino
phényle, indolyle, pyrrolinyle, imidazolyle éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs alkyle en C1-C2, hydroxyle. phenyl, indolyl, pyrrolinyl, imidazolyl optionally substituted by one or more C 1 -C 2 alkyl, hydroxyl.
En particulier, la ou les aminés de formule (III), identiques ou non, comprennent de une à cinq fonctions aminé primaire et/ou secondaire ; le ou les aminés ne comportant pas de liaison N-N. Egalement, la ou les aminés de formule (III) ne comprennent pas plus de deux hétéroatomes liés entre eux. In particular, the amine (s) of formula (III), which may be identical or different, comprise from one to five primary and / or secondary amine functions; the amine or amines having no N-N bond. Also, the amine (s) of formula (III) do not comprise more than two heteroatoms bonded together.
De préférence, la ou les aminés sont des composés de formule (III), plus particulièrement choisies parmi les composés de formules (Nia) à (UN), (UN') ci-dessous, ainsi que leurs sels d'addition : Preferably, the amine or amines are compounds of formula (III), more particularly chosen from compounds of formulas (Nia) to (UN), (UN ') below, and also their addition salts:
o les acides aminés et/ou dérivés de formule générale (Nia) : the amino acids and / or derivatives of general formula (Nia):
Formule (Nia) dans laquelle : Formula (Nia) in which:
- R9 représente un atome d'hydrogène un radical alkyle en CrC6 linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyle, hydroxycarbonyle, thiol, alkyl(CrC4)thio, amido, amino, guanidine, un radical phényle, éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxyle, un radical indolyle éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxyle, un radical imidazolyle, un radical pyrrolinyle éventuellement substitué par un groupement alkyle en C1-C2 ; ou un radical phényle non substitué R 9 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, preferably substituted with one or more hydroxyl, hydroxycarbonyl, thiol, C 1 -C 4 alkylthio, amido, amino, guanidine or phenyl groups; optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls, an indolyl radical optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyls, an imidazolyl radical or a pyrrolinyl radical optionally substituted with a C 1 -C 2 alkyl group; or an unsubstituted phenyl radical
- R'9 représente un hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C4, ou un radical phényle non substitué - R ' 9 represents a hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, or an unsubstituted phenyl radical
- R10 représente un hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en C1-C4. - R 10 represents a hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical.
- R'9 et Rg pouvant former ensemble avec l'atome d'azote auquel ils sont rattachés, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons saturé.
o les esters issus d'acides aminés et/ou dérivés de formule générale- R ' 9 and Rg may form together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered saturated heterocycle. esters derived from amino acids and / or derivatives of general formula
(lllb) : (lllb):
Formule (lllb) dans laquelle : Formula (IIIb) in which:
- Rg représente un atome d'hydrogène un radical alkyle en CrC6 linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyle, hydroxycarbonyle, alcoxy(CrC4)carbonyle, thiol, alkyl(d-C4)thio, amido, amino, guanidine, un radical phényle, éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxyle, un radical indolyle éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxyle, un radical imidazolyle, un radical pyrrolinyle éventuellement substitué par un groupement alkyle en CrC2 ; ou un radical phényle non substitué - Rg represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, preferably substituted with one or more hydroxyl, hydroxycarbonyl, alkoxy (C 1 -C 4 ) carbonyl, thiol, alkyl (dC 4 ) thio, amido or amino groups, guanidine, a phenyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls, an indolyl radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls, an imidazolyl radical, a pyrrolinyl radical optionally substituted by a C 1 -C 2 alkyl group; or an unsubstituted phenyl radical
- R'9 représente un hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC4, ou un radical phényle non substitué - R ' 9 represents a hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, or an unsubstituted phenyl radical
- Rio représente un hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en Ci-C4. - Rio represents hydrogen or an alkyl radical Ci-C 4.
- R'9 et Rg pouvant former ensemble avec l'atome d'azote auquel ils sont rattachés, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons saturé. - R ' 9 and Rg may form together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered saturated heterocycle.
- Ru représente : - Ru represents:
- un radical hydrocarboné en C Ci8 linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé et comprenant éventuellement de une à 5 doubles liaisons carbone-carbone conjuguées ou non, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou par un ou plusieurs groupements comprenant au moins un hétéroatome, de préférence choisis parmi l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, C=0, C=S, SO, S02 ou leurs combinaisons ; le radical alkyle ne comportant pas de fonction nitro, nitroso, peroxo ou diazo ; a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 8 hydrocarbon radical and optionally comprising one to five conjugated or unsubstituted carbon-carbon double bonds, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or more a plurality of groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably selected from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, C = O, C = S, SO, SO 2 or combinations thereof; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function;
- un radical benzyle non substitué an unsubstituted benzyl radical
Selon une variante particulière, Rg et Ru peuvent éventuellement former un cycle carboné saturé à 5 chaînons. According to a particular variant, R 8 and R 11 can optionally form a saturated carbon ring with 5 members.
De préférence Ru représente un radical alkyle en C-I-C-IO, linéaire ou ramifié éventuellement substitué ; un radical benzyle ; et de façon encore plus préférée, un radical alkyle en d-C4 linéaire ou ramifié éventuellement substitué par au moins un groupement hydroxyle, de préférence de 1 à 2 groupements hydroxyle ; un radical benzyle. Preferably, Ru represents an alkyl radical in CIC-10, linear or branched, optionally substituted; a benzyl radical; and even more preferably, a linear or branched dC 4 alkyl radical optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, preferably from 1 to 2 hydroxyl groups; a benzyl radical.
o les amides et les thioesters issus d'acides aminés et/ou dérivés de formule générale (I Ile) :
Formule (lllc) dans laquelle : amides and thioesters derived from amino acids and / or derivatives of general formula (I Ile): Formula (IIIc) in which:
- Rg représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC6, linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyle, alcoxy(CrC4)carbonyle, hydroxycarbonyle, thiol, alkyl(d-C4)thio, amido, amino, guanidine, un radical phényle, éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxyle, un radical indolyle éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxyle, un radical imidazolyle, un radical pyrrolinyle éventuellement substitué par un groupement alkyle en CrC2 ; - Rg represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, preferably substituted by one or more hydroxyl, alkoxy (C 1 -C 4 ) carbonyl, hydroxycarbonyl, thiol, alkyl (dC 4 ) thio, amido, amino, guanidine, a phenyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, an indolyl radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls, an imidazolyl radical, a pyrrolinyl radical optionally substituted with a C 1 -C 2 alkyl group;
- R'9 représente un hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en d-C4 éventuellement substitué par un radical hydroxysulfonyle ; - R ' 9 represents a hydrogen or an alkyl radical in dC 4 optionally substituted with a hydroxysulfonyl radical;
- Rio représente un hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en d-C4 ; - Rio represents a hydrogen or an alkyl radical in dC 4 ;
- R'9 et Rg pouvant former ensemble avec l'atome d'azote auquel ils sont rattachés, un hétérocycle à 5 chaînons saturé ; - R ' 9 and Rg may form together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a saturated 5-membered heterocycle;
- R12 représente : R12 represents:
*un atome hydrogène * a hydrogen atom
* un radical alkyle en CrC6, de préférence substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyle, thiol, alkyl(d-C4)thio, amido, amino, un radical phényle, éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxyle, un radical indolyle éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxyle, un radical imidazolyle, un radical pyrrolinyle éventuellement substitué par un groupement alkyle en CrC2 ; a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, preferably substituted by one or more hydroxyl, thiol, alkyl (dC 4 ) thio, amido or amino groups, a phenyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls, an indolyl radical optionally substituted with a or more hydroxyl, an imidazolyl radical, a pyrrolinyl radical optionally substituted with a C 1 -C 2 alkyl group;
- X représente un atome de soufre ou d'azote. X represents a sulfur or nitrogen atom.
Selon une variante particulière, Rg et R12 peuvent éventuellement former un cycle carboné saturé à 5, 6, 7 chaînons. According to a particular variant, R 8 and R 12 may optionally form a saturated carbon ring with 5, 6, 7 members.
Dans le cas ou X représente un atome d'azote et R12 représente un radical alkyle défini comme précédemment et tout particulièrement un résidu d'acide aminé et/ou leur ester méthylique ou éthylique correspondant choisi parmi l'alanine, l'arginine, l'asparagine, l'aspartate, la cystéine, le glutamate, la glutamine, la glycine, l'histidine, la lysine, la méthionine, la phénylalanine, la proline, la pyrrolysine, la sérine, la thréonine, le tryptophane, la tyrosine, la valine, la leucine, l'isoleucine, le composé de formule (lllc) représente un dipeptide, un oligopeptide. In the case where X represents a nitrogen atom and R 12 represents an alkyl radical defined as above and very particularly an amino acid residue and / or their corresponding methyl or ethyl ester chosen from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartate, cysteine, glutamate, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, pyrrolysine, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, the compound of formula (IIIc) represents a dipeptide, an oligopeptide.
o Des composés aminés de formule générale (Nid) : o Amino compounds of general formula (Nid):
Formule (Nid) dans laquelle : Formula (Nest) in which:
- R13, Ri4, Ris, Ri6 représentent indépendamment les uns des autres : - R13, Ri 4 , Ris, Ri6 represent independently of each other:
*un atome hydrogène * a hydrogen atom
*un radical hydrocarboné en CrC2o, linéaire, ramifié et/ou cyclique, saturé et/ou insaturé, pouvant contenir de 1 à 5 doubles liaisons carbone-carbone, éventuellement aromatique, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement
interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou par un ou plusieurs groupements comprenant au moins un hétéroatome, de préférence choisis parmi l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, CO, C=S, SO, S02 ou leurs combinaisons, éventuellement porteurs d'au moins un groupement hydroxyle ou alcoxy en CrC2, lesdits radicaux alkyle R13 et R14 ou Ri4 et R15 ou Ri5 et R16 pouvant éventuellement former avec l'atome de carbone auquel chacun est rattaché, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 7 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement aromatique, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote; le radical alkyle ne comportant pas de fonction nitro, nitroso, peroxo ou diazo ; plus particulièrement un radical alkyle en C-I-C-IO, éventuellement substitué ; et de préférence, un radical alkyle en CrC8 linéaire ou ramifié éventuellement substitué par au moins un groupement hydroxyle, de préférence de 1 à 2 groupements hydroxyle, un radical hydroxycarbonyle, un radical ureido, un radical alkoxy(CrC4)carbonyle ; un radical phenyle non substitué ; * A hydrocarbon radical -C 2 o linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated and / or unsaturated, optionally containing from 1 to 5 double carbon-carbon bonds, optionally aromatic, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably selected from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, C = S, SO, SO 2 or combinations thereof, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl or alkoxy group -C 2, said alkyl radicals R 13 and R 14 or R 4 and R 15 or R 5 and R 16 may optionally form, with the carbon atom to which each is attached, a heterocycle 5 or 7-membered, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function; more particularly an alkyl radical in CIC-10, optionally substituted; and preferably, a linear or branched C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl group, preferably from 1 to 2 hydroxyl groups, a hydroxycarbonyl radical, an ureido radical or a C 1 -C 4 alkoxycarbonyl radical; an unsubstituted phenyl radical;
- X représente un atome d'azote, d'oxygène ou de soufre. X represents a nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur atom.
- R17 représente : R17 represents:
*un atome hydrogène * a hydrogen atom
*un radical hydrocarboné en C Ci8 linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé et comprenant éventuellement de une à 5 doubles liaisons carbone-carbone conjuguées ou non, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou par un ou plusieurs groupements comprenant au moins un hétéroatome, de préférence choisis parmi l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, CO, C=S, SO, S02 ou leurs combinaisons ; le radical alkyle ne comportant pas de fonction nitro, nitroso, peroxo ou diazo ; plus particulièrement R17 représente un hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C-I-C-IO, linéaire ou ramifié, éventuellement substitué ; et de préférence, un hydrogène, un radical alkyle en d-C4 linéaire ou ramifié éventuellement substitué par au moins un groupement hydroxyle, de préférence de 1 à 2 groupements hydroxyle ; * A hydrocarbon radical C Ci 8 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and optionally comprising one to five carbon-carbon double bonds conjugated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or a plurality of groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably selected from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, C = S, SO, SO 2 or combinations thereof; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function; more particularly R 17 represents a hydrogen, an alkyl radical in CIC-10, linear or branched, optionally substituted; and preferably, hydrogen, a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl group, preferably from 1 to 2 hydroxyl groups;
- Ris représente : - Ris represents:
*un atome d'hydrogène * a hydrogen atom
*un radical alkyle en CrC8 linéaire ou ramifié éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou par un ou plusieurs groupements comprenant au moins un hétéroatome, de préférence choisis parmi l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, CO, C=S, SO, S02 ou leurs combinaisons, éventuellement porteurs d'au moins un groupement hydroxyle ou alcoxy en d-C2 ; le radical alkyle ne comportant pas de fonction nitro, nitroso, peroxo ou diazo, * A linear alkyl radical -C 8 branched or optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably selected from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, C = S, SO, SO 2 or combinations thereof, optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group or alkoxy group in dC 2 ; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function,
- n est un entier compris entre 0 et 5. - n is an integer between 0 and 5.
Selon une autre variante de l'invention, les radicaux Ri6 et R17 peuvent éventuellement former avec l'atome de carbone pour R16 et l'atome X pour le radical Ri7 auquel chacun est rattaché, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé,
éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement aromatique, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote. According to another variant of the invention, the radicals R 16 and R 17 may optionally form with the carbon atom for R 16 and the atom X for the radical R 17 to which each is attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle saturated or unsaturated optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen.
Selon une autre variante de l'invention, les radicaux Ri8 et R15 peuvent éventuellement former avec l'atome de d'azote pour R18 et l'atome de carbone pour le radical R15 auquel chacun est rattaché, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement aromatique, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote. According to another variant of the invention, the R 8 and R 15 radicals may optionally form, with the atom of nitrogen to R 18 and the carbon atom of the radical R15 which each is attached, a 5- or 6-membered, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen.
o Des composés aminés de formule générale (Nie) : o Amino compounds of general formula (Nie):
Formule (Nie) dans laquelle : Formula (Nie) in which:
- R13, R14, Ris, Ri6 et R18 ont la même signification que précédemment. - R13, R14, Ris, Ri6 and R 18 have the same meaning as above.
- R19 représente : R19 represents:
*un atome d'hydrogène * a hydrogen atom
*un radical alkyle en CrC8 linéaire ou ramifié éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou par un ou plusieurs groupements comprenant au moins un hétéroatome, de préférence choisis parmi l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, CO, C=S, SO, S02 ou leurs combinaisons, éventuellement porteurs d'au moins un groupement hydroxyle ou alcoxy en CrC2 ; le radical alkyle ne comportant pas de fonction nitro, nitroso, peroxo ou diazo, * A linear alkyl radical -C 8 branched or optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably selected from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, C = S, SO, SO 2 or combinations thereof, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group or C 1 -C 2 alkoxy; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function,
- m est un entier compris entre 0 et 7. - m is an integer between 0 and 7.
- u est un entier égal à 1 ou 2. Lorsque u vaut 2 alors le radical Ri8 représente un hydrogène. - u is an integer equal to 1 or 2. When u is 2 then the radical R 8 represents hydrogen.
Selon une autre variante de l'invention, les radicaux R13 et R14 peuvent éventuellement former avec l'atome de carbone pour R13 et R14 auquel ces substituants sont rattachée, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons, saturé. According to another variant of the invention, the radicals R 13 and R 14 may optionally form, with the carbon atom to R 13 and R 14 to which these substituents are attached, a 5- or 6-membered saturated.
o Des composés aminés de formule générale (lllf) : Amino compounds of general formula (IIIf):
Formule (lllf) dans laquelle : Formula (IIIf) in which:
- R13, RM, Ris, R16 et R18 ont la même signification que précédemment ; En outre, les radicaux R13, R14, R15 et R16 indépendamment les uns des autres peuvent aussi représenter un radical hydroxy, un radical alkoxy (CrC4)carbonyle, un radical carboxaldéhyde, un alkoxy (C1-C3) - R13, RM, Ris, R16 and R 18 have the same meaning as above; In addition, the radicals R 13, R 14, R 15 and R 16, independently of one another, may also represent a hydroxyl radical, an alkoxy (CrC 4 ) carbonyl radical, a carboxaldehyde radical and a (C 1 -C 3 ) alkoxy radical.
- m est un entier compris entre 1 et 18
- X représente, un atome d'oxygène, un groupement SH ou OH, un groupement méthylène éventuellement substitué par un radical hydroxy. - m is an integer between 1 and 18 X represents an oxygen atom, an SH or OH group, a methylene group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl radical.
- Lorsque X représente un atome d'oxygène, alors Ri8 forme un cycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxy(méthyl), de préférence de 1 à 4 groupements hydroxy(méthyle). - When X represents an oxygen atom, then R 8 form a 5- or 6-membered ring optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy (methyl), preferably 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups (methyl).
Selon une autre variante de l'invention, les radicaux Ri6 et R18 ou Ri3 et R18 peuvent éventuellement former avec l'atome de carbone pour R16 (ou pour R13) et l'atome d'azote pour le radical Ri8 auquel chacun est rattaché, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement aromatique, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote. According to another variant of the invention, the radicals R 6 and R 18 or R 3 and R 18 may optionally form, with the carbon atom to R 16 (or R 13) and the nitrogen atom to the radical R 8 to which each is attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen.
Selon une autre variante de l'invention, l'aminé de formule (lllf) peut un β- aminoalcool provenant de la réduction de la fonction acide ou ester en alcool d'un des vingt acides aminés estérifiés ou non. According to another variant of the invention, the amine of formula (IIIf) can a β-aminoalcohol resulting from the reduction of the acid or ester function to alcohol of one of the twenty esterified or non-esterified amino acids.
o Des composés aminés de formule générale (lllg) : o Amino compounds of general formula (IIIg):
Formule (lllg) dans laquelle : Formula (IIIg) in which:
- R13, R14, Ris, Ri6 et R18 ont la même signification que précédemment. - R13, R14, Ris, Ri6 and R 18 have the same meaning as above.
- R2o représente - R 2 o represents
*un radical alkyle linéaire en C1-C4 a linear C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
*un radical alcoxy linéaire en C1-C4 * A linear alkoxy group C1-C4
- o est un entier compris entre 0 et 5. o is an integer between 0 and 5.
- v est un entier valant 1 ou 2. Lorsque v vaut 2 alors Ri8 représente un hydrogène. v is an integer of 1 or 2. When v is 2 then Ri 8 is hydrogen.
Formule (lllh) dans laquelle : Formula (IIIh) in which:
- R13, RM, Ris, R16 et R18 ont la même signification que précédemment. En outre, les radicaux R13, R14, R15 et R16 indépendamment les uns des autres peuvent aussi représenter un radical hydroxy, un radical alkoxy (en CrC4)carbonyl, un radical carboxaldéhyde, un alkoxy (en C1-C3) ; - R13, RM, Ris, R16 and R 18 have the same meaning as above. In addition, the radicals R 13, R 14, R 15 and R 16, independently of one another, may also represent a hydroxyl radical, a (C 1 -C 4 ) alkoxycarbonyl radical, a carboxaldehyde radical or a C 1 -C 3 alkoxy radical;
- R21 et R22 représentent indépendamment l'un de l'autre : - R21 and R22 represent independently of one another:
*un atome d'hydrogène * a hydrogen atom
*un radical hydrocarboné en C1-C20, linéaire, ramifié et/ou cyclique, saturé et/ou insaturé, pouvant contenir de 1 à 5 doubles liaisons carbone-carbone, éventuellement
substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou par un ou plusieurs groupements comprenant au moins un hétéroatome, de préférence choisis parmi l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, CO, C=S, SO, S02 ou leurs combinaisons, éventuellement porteurs d'au moins un groupement hydroxyle ou alcoxy en C1-C2, plus particulièrement un radical alkyle en C1-C10, éventuellement substitué ; et de préférence, un radical alkyle en C1-C4 linéaire ou ramifié éventuellement substitué par au moins un groupement hydroxyle, de préférence de 1 à 2 groupements hydroxyle ; * A hydrocarbon radical C1-C20 linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated and / or unsaturated, optionally containing from 1 to 5 double carbon-carbon bonds, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably chosen from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, C = S, SO, S0 2 or combinations thereof, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group or C1-C2, in particular an alkyl radical C1-C1 0, optionally substituted; and preferably, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, preferably from 1 to 2 hydroxyl groups;
- R21 et R22 pouvant éventuellement former avec l'atome d'azote auxquels ils sont rattachés, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 7 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement aromatique, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote; le radical alkyle ne comportant pas de fonction nitro, nitroso, peroxo ou diazo, - R21 and R22 may optionally form with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 7-membered heterocycle, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from the 'nitrogen; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function,
- p est un entier compris entre 1 et 10. p is an integer between 1 and 10.
Selon une autre variante de l'invention, les radicaux alkyle Ri6 et R21 peuvent éventuellement former avec l'atome de carbone pour R16 et l'atome d'azote pour le radical R21 auquel chacun est rattaché, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement aromatique, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote. According to another variant of the invention, the alkyl radicals R 6 and R 21 may optionally form, with the carbon atom to R 16 and the nitrogen atom to the radical R21 which each is attached, a 5- or 6 links, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen.
Selon une autre variante de l'invention, les radicaux alkyle Ri8 et R21 peuvent éventuellement former avec le premier atome d'azote pour R18 et le dernier atome d'azote pour le radical R21 auquel chacun est rattaché, un hétérocycle comprenant de à 5 à 14 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement aromatique, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote. According to another variant of the invention, the alkyl radicals R 8 and R 21 may optionally form, with the first nitrogen atom for R 18 and the latter nitrogen atom to the radical R21 which each is attached, a heterocycle comprising at 5 to 14-membered, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical or different from nitrogen.
o Les composés aminés de formule générale (llli) et/ou (llli') :
The amino compounds of general formula (IIIll) and / or (IIIll):
Formules (llli) et/ou (llli') dans laquelle : Formulas (IIIi) and / or (IIIi ') in which:
- R23 et R24 représentent indépendamment l'un de l'autre : - R23 and R 2 4 represent independently of one another:
*un radical alkyle en CrC6, éventuellement substitué, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou par un ou plusieurs groupements comprenant au moins un hétéroatome, de préférence choisis parmi l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, CO, SO, S02 ou leurs combinaisons ; le radical alkyle ne comportant pas de fonction nitro, nitroso, peroxo ou diazo ; an optionally substituted C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably chosen from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, SO , S0 2 or combinations thereof; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function;
*un radical alkylcarbonyle (R-CO-) dans lequel R représente un radical alkyle en d- an alkylcarbonyl radical (R-CO-) in which R represents an alkyl radical in d
C4. C 4 .
*un radical alkylsulfonyle (RS02-) dans lequel R représente un radical alkyle en C1 - * An alkylsulfonyl radical (RS0 2 -) wherein R is alkyl C1 -
C4.
*un radical (di-)(alkyl)aminosulfonyle ((R)2N-S02-) dans lequel les radicaux R indépendamment représentent un hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C4. C 4 . * A (di -) (alkyl) aminosulfonyl ((R) 2 N-S0 2 -) in which the radicals R independently represent hydrogen, alkyl C1-C4.
*un radical (di-)(alkyl) aminocarbonyle (R)2N-CO-) dans lequel les radicaux R indépendamment représentent un hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C4. * A (di -) (alkyl) aminocarbonyl (R) 2 N-CO-) in which the radicals R independently represent hydrogen, alkyl C1-C4.
*un atome d'halogène choisi de préférence parmi le brome, le chlore ou le fluor. a halogen atom preferably chosen from bromine, chlorine or fluorine.
*un groupement alcoxy en C1-C4 ; * An alkoxy group C1-C4;
*un groupement (poly)hydroxyalcoxy en C2-C4 ; * A (poly) hydroxyalkoxy, C 2 -C 4 alkyl;
*un groupement hydroxycarbonyle (HO-CO-) * Hydroxycarbonyl group (HO-CO-)
*un groupement alcoxycarbonyle (RO-CO-) dans lequel R représente un radical alkyle en C1-C4, * An alkoxycarbonyl group (RO-CO-) in which R represents an alkyl radical in C1-C4,
*un groupement alkylcarbonylamino (RCO-NR'-) dans lequel le radical R représente un radical alkyle en C1-C4 et le radical R' représente un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en C1-C4 ; * An alkylcarbonylamino group (RCO-NR'-) in which the radical R represents an alkyl radical in C1-C4 and R 'represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl C1-C4;
*un radical alkylsulfonyle (RS02-) dans lequel le radical R représente un radical alkyle en C1-C4 ; * An alkylsulfonyl radical (RS0 2 -) wherein the radical R is an alkyl C1-C4;
- Y représente un atome de carbone ou d'azote Y represents a carbon or nitrogen atom
- z, z', z" représente indépendamment les uns des autres un atome de carbone, un atome d'azote ou un atome d'azote substitué par un hydrogène z, z ', z "independently of one another represents a carbon atom, a nitrogen atom or a nitrogen atom substituted with a hydrogen
- q est un entier compris entre 0 et 2 ; lorsque q est inférieur à 2, le ou les atomes de carbone non substitués porte(nt) un atome d'hydrogène q is an integer between 0 and 2; when q is less than 2, the unsubstituted carbon atom (s) carry (s) a hydrogen atom
- q' est un entier égale à 0 ou 1 ; lorsque q' est inférieur à 1 , le ou les atomes de carbone non substitués porte(nt) un atome d'hydrogène. q 'is an integer equal to 0 or 1; when q 'is less than 1, the unsubstituted carbon atom (s) carry (s) a hydrogen atom.
Selon une autre variante de l'invention, la ou les aminés sont choisies parmi les polymères aminés, ainsi que leurs sels d'addition, et en particulier parmi la polylysine ; le chitosan ; les aminés polyéthoxylées, telles que les carboxyPEG8 aminé, carboxyPEG12 aminé, carboxyPEG24 aminé ; ou leurs combinaisons. According to another variant of the invention, the amine or amines are chosen from amino polymers, as well as their addition salts, and in particular from polylysine; chitosan; polyethoxylated amines, such as carboxyPEG, amino, carboxy, amino, carboxy, amino; or their combinations.
Selon une autre variante de l'invention, la ou les aminés sont choisies parmi les bases puriques, en particulier choisies parmi l'adénine, l'adénosine, la guanine, la guanosine G, la thymine, la thymidine T, l'uracile, l'uridine U, la cytosine, la cytidine C, leurs sels d'additions, et leurs combinaisons. According to another variant of the invention, the amine or amines are chosen from purine bases, in particular chosen from adenine, adenosine, guanine, guanosine G, thymine, thymidine T, uracil, uridine U, cytosine, cytidine C, their addition salts, and combinations thereof.
On ne sortirait pas du cadre de l'invention en combinant plusieurs de ces variantes. De préférence, les aminés utilisables dans le cadre de l'invention sont choisies parmi les composés de formules (llla) et tout particulièrement l'asparagine, la cystéine, la glutamine, l'histidine, la lysine, la méthionine, la phénylalanine, la proline, la pyrrolysine, la sérine, la thréonine, le tryptophane, la tyrosine, et leurs sels d'addition. It would not be outside the scope of the invention by combining several of these variants. Preferably, the amines that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from the compounds of formulas (IIIa) and, in particular, asparagine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, pyrrolysine, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and their addition salts.
Selon une autre variante, les composés de formule (llla) sont de préférence :
According to another variant, the compounds of formula (IIIa) are preferably:
Selon un autre mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention, les aminés utilisées sontmule (lllb) et plus particulièrement celles listées ci-dessous :
According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the amines used are mule (IIIb) and more particularly those listed below:
Selon un autre mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention, les aminés utilisées sont ormule lllc , tout articulièrement celles listées ci-dessous According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the amines used are ormule lllc, all those listed below
Selon un autre mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention, les aminés utilisées sont de formule (Nie) et en particulier, choisies parmi les acides suivants, leurs énantiomères s'ils existent, ainsi que leurs sels, leurs hydrates : (1 -aminoéthyl) phosphonique, (aminométhyl)phosphonique, (1 -aminoéthyl-1 -cyclohexyl)phosphonique, (1 - aminopropyl)phosphonique, (l -aminobutyl)phosphonique, , imino- bis(méthylphosphonique), (1 -amino-2-méthylpropyl)phosphonique, (1 -amino-2- phényléthyl)phosphonique, (1 -amino-1 -méthyléthyl)phosphonique, , (1 -amino-3- méthylbutyl)phosphonique, 1 -amino-benzyl phosphonique, 1 -amino hexyl phosphonique, diéthyl(aminoéthyl)phosphonique (en particulier sel oxalate), tétraéthyl(aminométhylène)bisphosphonique (en particulier ses sels), (1 -amino-2,2-
diméthylpropyl)phosphonique, N-méthyl aminométhyl phosphonique, (1 -aminopentyl) phosphonique, (1 -amino-2-méthylbutyl)phosphonique, (1 -aminooctyl) phosphonique, (1 - amino-1 -méthylpropyl)phosphonique, (1 -amino-1 ,2- diméthylpropyl) phosphonique, (1 - amino-1 ,3-diméthylbutyl)phosphonique, (1 -amino-1 -méthylbutyl) phosphonique, (1 -amino- 1 -cyclopentyl)phosphonique, (l -amino-hydroxycarbonyl)propyl phosphonique, (1 -amino-1 - méthyléthyl)phosphonique, 1 -amino-2-méthyl-butyl phosphonique, 1 -phosphono-2- phényléthylamine, (aminométhyl)phosphonique, 3-aminopropylphosphonique, 2-amino-2- méthyl-4-phosphonobutanoïque et leurs esters éthyliques, (diéthyl(3-aminopropyl) phosphonique (en particulier sel oxalate), 3-(N-hydroxyamino)propyl phosphonique, 2- amino-2-méthyl-4-phosphonobutyrique, diéthylester de (3-aminopropyl)phosphonique, 2- amino-4-phosphonobutyrique, 2-aminoéthylphosphonique, 2-amino-3-phosphonopro- pionique, diéthyl ester de (2-aminoéthyl)phosphonique, diéthyl (2-amino- éthyl)phosphonique, (2-((2-pyrrolidinylcarbonyl)amino)éthyl) phosphonique, le diéthyl ester de (2-amino-1 -méthyl-2-phényl)éthyl phosphonique, le diéthyl ester de (2-amino-2- phényl)éthyl phosphonique, e, ou leurs mélanges. According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the amines used are of formula (Nie) and in particular, chosen from the following acids, their enantiomers if they exist, as well as their salts, their hydrates: (1-aminoethyl) ) phosphonic, (aminomethyl) phosphonic, (1-amino-1-cyclohexyl) phosphonic acid, (1-aminopropyl) phosphonic acid, (1-aminobutyl) phosphonic acid, imino-bis (methylphosphonic), (1-amino-2-methylpropyl) phosphonic acid, (1-amino-2-phenylethyl) phosphonic acid, (1-amino-1-methylethyl) phosphonic acid, (1-amino-3-methylbutyl) phosphonic acid, 1-amino-benzyl phosphonic acid, 1-amino hexyl phosphonic acid, diethyl ether (aminoethyl) phosphonic acid (in particular oxalate salt), tetraethyl (aminomethylene) bisphosphonic acid (in particular its salts), (1-amino-2,2- dimethylpropyl) phosphonic acid, N-methylaminomethylphosphonic acid, (1-aminoopentyl) phosphonic acid, (1-amino-2-methylbutyl) phosphonic acid, (1-aminooctyl) phosphonic acid, (1-amino-1-methylpropyl) phosphonic acid, (1-amino 1,2-dimethylpropyl) phosphonic acid, (1-amino-1,3-dimethylbutyl) phosphonic acid, (1-amino-1-methylbutyl) phosphonic acid, (1-amino-1-cyclopentyl) phosphonic acid, 1-amino-hydroxycarbonyl ) propyl phosphonic acid, (1-amino-1-methylethyl) phosphonic acid, 1-amino-2-methyl-butyl phosphonic acid, 1-phosphono-2-phenylethylamine, (aminomethyl) phosphonic acid, 3-aminopropylphosphonic acid, 2-amino-2-methyl 4-phosphonobutanoic acid and their ethyl esters, (diethyl (3-aminopropyl) phosphonic acid (in particular oxalate salt), 3- (N-hydroxyamino) propyl phosphonic acid, 2-amino-2-methyl-4-phosphonobutyric acid, diethyl ester aminopropyl) phosphonic acid, 2-amino-4-phosphonobutyric acid, 2-aminoethylphosphonic acid, 2-amino-3-phosphonopropionic acid, (2-aminoethyl) phosphonium diethyl ester diethyl (2-aminoethyl) phosphonic acid, (2 - ((2-pyrrolidinylcarbonyl) amino) ethyl) phosphonic acid, diethyl ester of (2-amino-1-methyl-2-phenyl) ethyl phosphonic acid, diethyl ester (2-amino-2-phenyl) ethyl phosphonic acid, e, or mixtures thereof.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention, les aminés utilisées sont de formule (lllf) et en particulier, choisies parmi les composés suivants, leurs énantiomères s'ils existent, ainsi que leurs sels, leurs hydrates : isopropanolamine, isopropylamine, méthyléthanolamine, méthylglucamine, stéaramine, , trométhamine, prométhazine, 1 ,3-Diméthylpentylamine, octodrine, spermidine, theanine, octamylamine, ,2-amino-1 -phényl-propane-1 ,3- diol, 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2-amino-2-méthylpropane, 2-amino-2- (hydroxyméthyl)propane-1 ,3-diol tris, 2-amino-1 ,3-dihydroxy-2-éthylpropane, 2-amino-3- méthylbutan-1 -ol, 2-amino-2-méthylpropan-1 -ol, phénylglycinol, alcool 2-aminopropyl, 2- hydroxyéthylamine, 2-aminohexan-1 -ol, 1 -amino-1 -cyclopentaneméthanol, histidinol, 2- amino-3-(3-indolyl)propanol, 3-(4-hydroxyphényl)-2-amino-1 -propanol, beta-aminoiso butanol, 2-amino-1 -propanol, 2-amino-1 ,3-propanediol, 2-amino-4-méthyl-1 -pentanol, 1 - butanol-2-amino -3-méthyl, beta-amino benzènepropanol, 2-aminopropan-1 -ol, 2-amino-1 - butanol, 2-amino-4-méthylpetan-1 -ol, 3-aminopropanethiol, éthyll 2-amino-4- mercaptobutanoate, 6-hydroxyhexylamine, beta-D-galactopyranosylamine, B-D- glucopyranosylamine, 1 -amino-2,5-anhydro-D-mannitol, 1 -amino-1 -deosy-D-fructose, D- glucosamine, 2-pyrrolidinemethanol, 1 -amino-2,3-dihydroxypropane, 3-propanolamine, 3- [(2-hydroxyéthyl)amino]propan-1 -ol, di-beta-hydroéthylamine, bis(3-hydroxypropyl)amine, N-2'-aminoéthyl-N-propanolamine, , alcool 4-amino-N-butyl, méthyl 3-amino-3-deoxy-A-D- mannopyranoside, N-butyl-4-hydroxybutylamine, 4-amino-4-(3-hydroxypropyl)-1 ,7- heptanediol, 1 -hexylamine, 1 -octylamine, 1 -nonylamine, 1 -décylamine, laurylamine, 1 - tétradécylamine, 1 -hexadécylamine, l'acide 3-amino-2-hydroxypropionique, l'acide 3- amino-2-hydroxy-4-phenylbutanoïque, l'acide 4-amino-3-hydroxybutyrique, l'ethyl 4- hydroxy-2-pyrrolidinecarboxylate et leurs mélanges. According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the amines used are of formula (IIIf) and in particular, chosen from the following compounds, their enantiomers if they exist, as well as their salts, their hydrates: isopropanolamine, isopropylamine, methylethanolamine, methylglucamine, stearamine,, tromethamine, promethazine, 1,3-dimethylpentylamine, octodrine, spermidine, theanine, octamylamine, 2-amino-1-phenylpropane-1,3-diol, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-yl amino-2-methylpropane, 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl) propane-1,3-diol tris, 2-amino-1,3-dihydroxy-2-ethylpropane, 2-amino-3-methylbutan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, phenylglycinol, 2-aminopropyl alcohol, 2-hydroxyethylamine, 2-aminohexan-1-ol, 1-amino-1-cyclopentanemethanol, histidinol, 2-amino-3- (3- indolyl) propanol, 3- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -2-amino-1-propanol, beta-aminoisobutanol, 2-amino-1-propanol, 2-amino-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-4-methyl -1-pentanol, 1-butanol-2-amino-3-methyl thyl, beta-amino benzenepropanol, 2-aminopropan-1-ol, 2-amino-1-butanol, 2-amino-4-methylpetan-1-ol, 3-aminopropanethiol, ethyl-2-amino-4-mercaptobutanoate, 6- hydroxyhexylamine, beta-D-galactopyranosylamine, BD-glucopyranosylamine, 1-amino-2,5-anhydro-D-mannitol, 1-amino-1-deosy-D-fructose, D-glucosamine, 2-pyrrolidinemethanol, 1-amino 2,3-dihydroxypropane, 3-propanolamine, 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] propan-1-ol, di-beta-hydroethylamine, bis (3-hydroxypropyl) amine, N-2'-aminoethyl-N-propanolamine 4-amino-N-butyl alcohol, methyl 3-amino-3-deoxy-AD-mannopyranoside, N-butyl-4-hydroxybutylamine, 4-amino-4- (3-hydroxypropyl) -1,7-heptanediol, 1 -hexylamine, 1-octylamine, 1 -nonylamine, 1-decylamine, laurylamine, 1-tetradecylamine, 1-hexadecylamine, 3-amino-2-hydroxypropionic acid, 3-amino-2-hydroxy-4- acid phenylbutanoic acid, 4-amino-3-hydroxybutyric acid, ethyl 4-hydroxy-2-pyrrolidinecarboxylate and mixtures thereof.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention, les aminés utilisées sont de formule (lllg) en particulier choisies parmi les aminopropyl triéthoxysilane, (aminométhyl)triméthylsilane, 2-(triméthylsilyl)éthanamine, 3-(triméthylsilyl)propan-1 -
aminé, 4-(triéthoxysilyl)butan-1 -aminé, N-[3-(triméthoxysilyl)propyl]éthylène diamine, 3- (triméthoxysilyl)propylamine, 3-triéthoxysilyl-1 -propanamine, (3-méthylaminopropyl) triméthoxysilane, et leurs mélanges. According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the amines used are of formula (IIIg) in particular chosen from aminopropyl triethoxysilane, (aminomethyl) trimethylsilane, 2- (trimethylsilyl) ethanamine, 3- (trimethylsilyl) propan-1, and amine, 4- (triethoxysilyl) butan-1-amino, N- [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] ethylene diamine, 3- (trimethoxysilyl) propylamine, 3-triethoxysilyl-1-propanamine, (3-methylaminopropyl) trimethoxysilane, and their mixtures.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention, les aminés utilisées sont de formule (lllh) et en particulier les aminés ci-dessous, leurs énantiomères s'ils existent, ainsi que leurs sels, leurs hydrates : gérontine, N-[3-aminopropyl]-1 ,4- butane-diamine, 1 ,4-butanediamine, 4-(éthylamino)-N-butylamine, 2-[3-(2-hydroxy-1 ,1 -bis-hydroxyméthyl- éthylamino)-propylamino]-2-hydroxyméthyl-propane-1 ,3-diol, 1 ,4,8, 1 1 -tétraazacyclotétra- décane, 1 ,4-diazacycloheptane, 1 ,3-diamino-2-hdroxypropane, N,N'-bis(2-aminoéthyl) propane-1 ,3-diamine, 3-méthylamino propylamine, 1 ,3-bis amino propane, N,N'-diméthyl- triméthylènediamine, 2,2-diméthyltriméthylènediamine, 2,2-diméthyl-1 ,3-diaminopropane, N-(2-hydroxyéthyl)-1 ,3-diaminopropane, N-(2-hydroxyéthyl)-1 ,3-diaminopropane, cysta- mine, 1 ,5 diaminopentane, 1 ,6-diaminohexane, lauraminopropylamine, 2-Methylheptyl- amine (2-(N-methyl)heptylamine), éthylènediamine, Ν,Ν-bis (2-hydroxyéthyl)-éthylène- diamine, 3-amino- alanine, piperazine-2-carboxylic acid, beta-N-methylamino-alanine, l'ester methylique de la piperazine-2-carboxylic acid, ethyl 3-amino- prolinate, l'acide 2,4- diamino-N-butyrique, la N-[3-(triméthoxysilyl)propyl]éthylène diamine ou leurs mélanges. According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the amines used are of formula (IIIh) and in particular the amines below, their enantiomers if they exist, as well as their salts, their hydrates: gerenterine, N- [ 3-aminopropyl] -1,4-butane-diamine, 1,4-butanediamine, 4- (ethylamino) -N-butylamine, 2- [3- (2-hydroxy-1,1-bis-hydroxymethylethylamino) - propylamino] -2-hydroxymethyl-propane-1,3-diol, 1, 4,8, 1-tetraazacyclotetradecane, 1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,3-diamino-2-hydroxypropane, N, N'-bis (2-aminoethyl) propane-1,3-diamine, 3-methylamino propylamine, 1,3-bisamino propane, N, N'-dimethyltrimethylenediamine, 2,2-dimethyltrimethylenediamine, 2,2-dimethyl-1,3 diaminopropane, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1,3-diaminopropane, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1,3-diaminopropane, cystamine, 1,5 diaminopentane, 1,6-diaminohexane, lauraminopropylamine, 2- Methylheptylamine (2- (N-methyl) heptylamine), ethylenediamine, Ν, Ν-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) ethyl n-diamine, 3-aminoalanine, piperazine-2-carboxylic acid, beta-N-methylamino-alanine, methyl ester of piperazine-2-carboxylic acid, ethyl 3-amino-prolinate, acid 2, 4-diamino-N-butyric acid, N- [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] ethylene diamine or mixtures thereof.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention, les aminés utilisées sont de formule (UN) et/ou (ΙΙΝ') et en particulier les composés listés ci-dessous, leurs énantiomères s'ils existent, ainsi que leurs sels, leurs hydrates alpha-pyridylamine, 2- amino-3-hydroxypyridine, acide 2 amino-nicotinique, 2-amino-3-méthylpyridine, 6- méthoxy-3-pyridylamine, 3-aminopyridine, 3-amino-4-pyridinylamine, 2,5-aminopyridine, gamma-pyridylamine, 2,3-diméthylpyridine-4-amine, acide amino(4-) salicylique, méthylpara-amino benzoate, benzocaïne, acide aminobenzoïque, acide 4-amino-M- anisique, acide 4-amino-3-hydroxy-benzoïque, ester méthylique de l'acide 3,4- diaminobenzoïque, acide méthyl 4-amino-3-méthoxybenzène carboxylique, acide 2- aminoanisole-4-carboxylique, l'acide 3-amino-4-hydroxyenzoïque, l'ester éthylique de l'acide 3-aminobenzoïque, 1 -amino-3-carboxybenzène, l'ester méthylique de l'acide 2- aminobenzoïque, l'anthranylate d'éthyle, 1 H-pyrazol-3-ylamine, 3-amino-4-carbéthoxy-1 H- pyrazole, 5-amino-1 -éthyl-pyrazole, 1 H-benzoimidazol-2 -aminé, 2-imidazolamine, 1 - méthylbenzoimidazol-2-amine, 1 H-pyrazol-3-ylamine, 3-amino-4-carbéthoxy-1 H-pyrazole, 5-amino-1 -éthyl pyrazole, 1 H-benzoimidazol-2-amine, 2-imidazolamine, 1 - méthylbenzoimidazol-2-amine, et leurs mélanges . According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the amines used are of formula (UN) and / or (ΙΙΝ ') and in particular the compounds listed below, their enantiomers if they exist, as well as their salts, their hydrates alpha-pyridylamine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-nicotinic acid, 2-amino-3-methylpyridine, 6-methoxy-3-pyridylamine, 3-aminopyridine, 3-amino-4-pyridinylamine, 2, 5-aminopyridine, gamma-pyridylamine, 2,3-dimethylpyridine-4-amine, amino (4-) salicylic acid, methylpara-amino benzoate, benzocaine, aminobenzoic acid, 4-amino-M-anisic acid, 4-amino acid 3-hydroxy-benzoic acid, 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid methyl ester, methyl 4-amino-3-methoxybenzene carboxylic acid, 2-aminoanisole-4-carboxylic acid, 3-amino-4-hydroxy benzoic acid, 3-Aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 1-amino-3-carboxybenzene, 2-aminobenzoic acid methyl ester, ethyl anthranylate, 1H-pyrazol-3-yl amine, 3-amino-4-carbethoxy-1H-pyrazole, 5-amino-1-ethyl-pyrazole, 1H-benzoimidazol-2-amine, 2-imidazolamine, 1-methylbenzoimidazol-2-amine, 1H-pyrazol -3-ylamine, 3-amino-4-carbethoxy-1H-pyrazole, 5-amino-1-ethyl pyrazole, 1H-benzoimidazol-2-amine, 2-imidazolamine, 1-methylbenzoimidazol-2-amine, and their mixtures.
On peut également utiliser les aminés suivantes, sous forme de sels ou non, lauroyl Ethylènediamine, octopamine, oléamine, palmitamine, 2-(2-aminoéthoxy)éthanol, 2- amino-4,5-diméthylthiazole, hexetidine, mécamylamine, tranylcypromine, triamterene, méthyl[2-(3-triméthoxysilyllpropyl amino)-éthylamino], bis(triéthoxysilylpropyl)amine, N1 - (3-(triméthoxysilyl)propyl)hexane-1 ,6-diamine, diéthylène triaminopropyl triméthoxy silane, N-(3-triéthoxysilylpropyl)éthylène diamine, N-(3-triméthoxysilyléthyl)éthylènediamine. It is also possible to use the following amines, in the form of salts or not, lauroyl Ethylenediamine, octopamine, oleamine, palmitamine, 2- (2-aminoethoxy) ethanol, 2-amino-4,5-dimethylthiazole, hexetidine, mecamylamine, tranylcypromine, triamterene methyl [2- (3-trimethoxysilylpropylamino) ethylamino], bis (triethoxysilylpropyl) amine, N1 - (3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl) hexane-1,6-diamine, diethylene triaminopropyl trimethoxy silane, N- (3-triethoxysilylpropyl) ethylene diamine, N- (3-trimethoxysilylethyl) ethylenediamine.
De préférence, la ou les aminés primaires ou secondaires sont choisies parmi les composés de formule (NI) et tout spécialement parmi les composés de formule (lllb), (lllc)
avec plus particulièrement X représentant un atome d'azote, (llld) où X représente plus particulièrement un atome d'azote ou d'oxygène, (Nie), (lllf) avec X représentant tout particulièrement un atome d'oxygène, OH ou un groupement méthylène éventuellement substitué par un radical hydroxy, (lllg), (lllh) et (UN'), seuls ou en mélange. Preferably, the primary or secondary amine or amines are chosen from compounds of formula (NI) and especially from compounds of formula (IIIb), (IIIc) with more particularly X representing a nitrogen atom, (IIId) where X represents more particularly a nitrogen or oxygen atom, (Nie), (IIIf) with X representing very particularly an oxygen atom, OH or a methylene group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl, (IIIg), (IIIh) and (UN ') radical, alone or as a mixture.
Lorsque cette variante est mise en œuvre, la teneur en amine(s) primaire(s) ou secondaire(s), ammoniaque, hydroxylamine, présente(s) dans la composition est comprise entre 0,001 et 65 % en poids ; et de préférence entre 0,001 et 30 % en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition. When this variant is implemented, the content of amine (s) primary (s) or secondary (s), ammonia, hydroxylamine, present (s) in the composition is between 0.001 and 65% by weight; and preferably between 0.001 and 30% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
La composition comprenant le ou les composés de formules (I) et/ou (II) peut éventuellement comprendre un ou plusieurs sels. The composition comprising the compound (s) of formulas (I) and / or (II) may optionally comprise one or more salts.
Lorsqu'ils sont présents, ces derniers sont en général choisis parmi les sels organiques et/ou les sels inorganiques, ainsi que leurs combinaisons. When present, they are generally chosen from organic salts and / or inorganic salts, as well as combinations thereof.
En particulier, les anions composant ces sels peuvent être aussi bien inorganiques (chlorure, carbonate, hydrogénocarbonate, sulfate, hydrogénosulfate, silicate, phosphate, hydrogénophosphate...) à l'exception de l'hydroxyde, qu'organiques (aspartate, formiate, acétate, lactate, citrate, gluconate, succinate, malate, fumarate, orotate...) In particular, the anions comprising these salts can be both inorganic (chloride, carbonate, hydrogencarbonate, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, silicate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, etc.) with the exception of hydroxide, which are organic (aspartate, formate, acetate, lactate, citrate, gluconate, succinate, malate, fumarate, orotate ...)
Les cations composant ces sels peuvent être issus aussi bien des métaux alcalins (de préférence lithium, sodium, potassium), que de métaux alcalino-terreux (de préférence magnésium, calcium), que de métaux de transition (scandium, titane, vanadium, manganèse, fer, cobalt, nickel, cuivre, zinc, argent, or). D'autres cations peuvent aussi former des sels comme les ammoniums. De préférence, les cations seront choisis parmi les métaux alcalins (lithium, sodium, potassium), les métaux alcalino-terreux (magnésium, calcium), les ammoniums, ainsi que les métaux de transition suivants : manganèse, fer, cuivre, zinc, argent et l'or. The cations that make up these salts can be derived from alkali metals (preferably lithium, sodium, potassium), alkaline earth metals (preferably magnesium, calcium) or transition metals (scandium, titanium, vanadium, manganese). , iron, cobalt, nickel, copper, zinc, silver, gold). Other cations may also form salts such as ammoniums. Preferably, the cations will be chosen from alkali metals (lithium, sodium, potassium), alkaline earth metals (magnesium, calcium), ammoniums, as well as the following transition metals: manganese, iron, copper, zinc, silver and gold.
De préférence, ces sels sont choisis parmi les sels de métaux alcalins, alcalino- terreux ou d'ammonium, de carbonate, hydrogénocarbonate, chlorure, sulfate, silicate, phosphate monobasique, acétate, et leurs mélanges. Encore plus avantageusement, lesdits sels sont choisis parmi les carbonate de lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium, ammonium ; les hydrogénocarbonates de sodium, potassium ; chlorure de calcium, lithium, sodium ; sulfate d'ammonium, de sodium, de magnésium ; silicate de sodium ; phosphate monobasique de sodium, potassium ; acétate de sodium. Preferably, these salts are chosen from alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts, carbonate, hydrogencarbonate, chloride, sulfate, silicate, monobasic phosphate, acetate, and mixtures thereof. Even more advantageously, said salts are chosen from lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium carbonate; sodium hydrogencarbonates, potassium; calcium chloride, lithium, sodium; ammonium, sodium, magnesium sulphate; sodium silicate; sodium phosphate monobasic, potassium; sodium acetate.
Lorsqu'ils sont présents, leur teneur représente de 0,001 et 40% en poids par rapport au poids de la composition, et encore plus préférentiellement entre 0,001 et 20% en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition. When present, their content represents 0.001 and 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, and even more preferably between 0.001 and 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
Le milieu cosmétiquement acceptable comprend en général au moins de l'eau ou bien encore un mélange d'eau et d'au moins un solvant organique. A titre de solvant organique, on peut par exemple citer les alcanols inférieurs en CrC4, tels que l'éthanol et l'isopropanol ; les polyols et éthers de polyols comme le 2-butoxyéthanol, le propylèneglycol, le monométhyléther de propylèneglycol, le monoéthyléther et le monométhyléther du diéthylèneglycol, ainsi que les alcools aromatiques comme l'alcool benzylique ou le phénoxyéthanol, et leurs mélanges.
Les solvants lorsqu'ils sont présents sont, de préférence présents dans des proportions de préférence comprises entre 1 et 99% en poids par rapport au poids de la composition, et encore plus préférentiellement entre 5 et 95% en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition. The cosmetically acceptable medium generally comprises at least water or a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent. Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned are lower C 1 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. The solvents when they are present are preferably present in proportions preferably of between 1 and 99% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, and still more preferably between 5 and 95% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. the composition.
La composition mise en œuvre dans le procédé selon l'invention peut également renfermer divers adjuvants utilisés classiquement dans les compositions pour la coloration des cheveux, tels que des agents tensioactifs anioniques, cationiques, non ioniques, amphotères, zwittérioniques ou leurs mélanges, des polymères anioniques, cationiques, non ioniques, amphotères, zwittérioniques ou leurs mélanges, des agents épaississants minéraux ou organiques, et en particulier les épaississants associatifs polymères anioniques, cationiques, non ioniques et amphotères, des agents antioxydants, des agents de pénétration, des agents séquestrants, des parfums, des tampons, des agents dispersants, des agents de conditionnement tels que par exemple des silicones volatiles ou non volatiles, modifiées ou non tels que les silicones aminés, des agents filmogènes, des céramides, des agents conservateurs, des agents opacifiants, des polymères conducteurs. The composition used in the process according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, anionic polymers. cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or mixtures thereof, inorganic or organic thickeners, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or not, such as amino silicones, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifying agents, polymers conductors.
Les adjuvants ci dessus sont en général présents en quantité comprise pour chacun d'eux entre 0,01 et 20% en poids par rapport au poids de la composition. The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
Bien entendu, l'homme de l'art veillera à choisir ce ou ces éventuels composés complémentaires de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses attachées intrinsèquement à la composition de teinture conforme à l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par la ou les adjonctions envisagées. Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the dyeing composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the or the additions envisaged.
Le pH de la composition est généralement compris entre 3 et 14 environ, et de préférence entre 4 et 1 1 environ, plus préférentiellement entre 4 et 10. Il peut être ajusté à la valeur désirée au moyen d'agents acidifiants ou alcalinisants habituellement utilisés en teinture des fibres kératiniques ou bien encore à l'aide de systèmes tampons classiques. The pH of the composition is generally between 3 and 14 approximately, and preferably between 4 and 1 1 approximately, more preferably between 4 and 10. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalinizing agents usually used in dyeing of keratinous fibers or else using conventional buffer systems.
Parmi les agents acidifiants, on peut citer, à titre d'exemple, les acides minéraux ou organiques comme l'acide chlorhydrique, l'acide orthophosphorique, les acides carboxyliques comme l'acide acétique, l'acide tartrique, l'acide citrique, l'acide lactique, les acides sulfoniques. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.
Parmi les agents alcalinisants on peut citer, à titre d'exemple, l'ammoniaque, les carbonates alcalins, les aminés citées auparavant. Among the alkalinizing agents that may be mentioned, for example, ammonia, alkaline carbonates, the amines mentioned above.
La composition peut se présenter sous des formes diverses, telles que sous forme de liquide, de crème, de gel, ou sous toute autre forme appropriée pour réaliser une teinture des fibres kératiniques, et notamment des cheveux. The composition may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquid, cream, gel, or in any other form suitable for dyeing keratinous fibers, and especially hair.
La composition mise en œuvre dans le procédé selon l'invention peut comprendre également un ou plusieurs agents oxydants. On parle dans ce cas de composition prête à l'emploi. The composition used in the process according to the invention may also comprise one or more oxidizing agents. In this case, we speak of ready-to-use compositions.
En particulier, la composition prête à l'emploi est obtenue par mélange extemporané avant l'application, d'une composition précédemment décrite, avec au moins une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs agents oxydants.
L'agent oxydant est choisi de préférence parmi le peroxyde d'hydrogène, le peroxyde d'urée, les bromates ou ferricyanures de métaux alcalins, les sels peroxygénés comme par exemple les persulfates, les perborates et les percarbonates de métaux alcalins ou alcalino-terreux, comme le sodium, le potassium, le magnésium. In particular, the ready-to-use composition is obtained by extemporaneous mixing, prior to application, of a composition previously described, with at least one composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents. The oxidizing agent is preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for example alkali or alkaline earth metal persulfates, perborates and percarbonates. like sodium, potassium, magnesium.
L'utilisation du peroxyde d'hydrogène est particulièrement préférée. The use of hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred.
Cet agent oxydant est avantageusement constitué du peroxyde d'hydrogène en solution aqueuse (eau oxygénée) dont le titre peut varier, plus particulièrement, de 1 à 40 volumes, et encore plus préférentiellement de 5 à 40 volumes. This oxidizing agent is advantageously constituted by hydrogen peroxide in aqueous solution (hydrogen peroxide), the titre of which may vary, more particularly, from 1 to 40 volumes, and even more preferably from 5 to 40 volumes.
Il est ainsi à noter que la composition mise en œuvre dans l'invention peut résulter du mélange extemporané de plusieurs compositions. It should thus be noted that the composition used in the invention may result from the extemporaneous mixing of several compositions.
La composition qui vient d'être décrite est donc appliquée sur les fibres kératiniques humaines, en particulier, les cheveux. The composition which has just been described is therefore applied to human keratin fibers, in particular the hair.
Conformément à un premier mode de réalisation, la composition appliquée ne comprend pas d'agent oxydant. Ce mode de réalisation est approprié notamment dans le cas où la composition ne comprend pas de colorant d'oxydation (bases / coupleurs). C'est le mode de réalisation préféré. According to a first embodiment, the composition applied does not comprise an oxidizing agent. This embodiment is appropriate especially in the case where the composition does not comprise oxidation dye (bases / couplers). This is the preferred embodiment.
Conformément à un deuxième mode de réalisation, on applique sur les fibres la composition prête à l'emploi qui a été détaillée précédemment et qui est obtenue par mélange extemporané avant l'application, de la composition décrite auparavant dépourvue d'agent oxydant, avec une composition oxydante. Ce mode de réalisation est particulièrement approprié dans le cas où la composition comprend un ou plusieurs colorants d'oxydation (bases / coupleurs) ou bien que l'on souhaite obtenir un effet d'éclaircissement. According to a second embodiment, the ready-to-use composition which has been described above and which is obtained by extemporaneous mixing before application of the composition previously described without any oxidizing agent, with a coating, is applied to the fibers. oxidizing composition. This embodiment is particularly suitable in the case where the composition comprises one or more oxidation dyes (bases / couplers) or that it is desired to obtain a lightening effect.
Selon une deuxième variante de ce mode de réalisation, on applique la composition dépourvue d'agent oxydant, et une composition oxydante, successivement et sans rinçage intermédiaire. According to a second variant of this embodiment, the composition without oxidizing agent is applied, and an oxidizing composition, successively and without intermediate rinsing.
La composition oxydante mise en œuvre comprend un ou plusieurs agents oxydants tels que définis plus haut. The oxidizing composition used comprises one or more oxidizing agents as defined above.
Concernant les solvants organiques éventuellement présents dans la composition oxydante, on pourra se reporter à la liste indiquée auparavant dans le cadre du descriptif de la composition selon l'invention. Regarding the organic solvents possibly present in the oxidizing composition, reference may be made to the list indicated previously in the context of the description of the composition according to the invention.
Habituellement, le pH de la composition oxydante est inférieur à 7. Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition is less than 7.
La composition oxydante peut se présenter sous la forme d'une solution, une émulsion ou un gel. The oxidizing composition may be in the form of a solution, an emulsion or a gel.
Elle peut éventuellement comprendre un ou plusieurs additifs utilisés classiquement dans le domaine de la coloration des fibres kératiniques humaines, en fonction de la forme galénique souhaitée. On pourra là encore se reporter à la liste des additifs donnée plus haut. It may optionally comprise one or more additives conventionally used in the field of human keratin fiber staining, depending on the desired dosage form. We can again refer to the list of additives given above.
Quel que soit le mode de réalisation retenu (avec ou sans agent oxydant, mélange extemporané ou applications successives de la composition et de l'agent oxydant), le
mélange appliqué sur les fibres est laissé en place pour une durée, en général, de l'ordre de 1 minute à 1 heure, de préférence de 10 minutes à 30 minutes. Whatever the embodiment chosen (with or without an oxidizing agent, extemporaneous mixing or successive applications of the composition and the oxidizing agent), the The mixture applied to the fibers is left in place for a period, in general, of the order of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 10 minutes to 30 minutes.
Quant à la température à laquelle la ou les compositions sont appliquées, celle-ci est généralement voisine de la température ambiante, par exemple comprise entre 20°C et 45°C. As for the temperature at which the composition or compositions are applied, this is generally close to ambient temperature, for example between 20 ° C. and 45 ° C.
Comme indiqué auparavant, le procédé selon l'invention consiste à appliquer aux fibres traitées un stimulus externe ou une combinaison de plusieurs d'entre eux, choisi parmi un stimulus thermique ; un stimulus lumineux ; un stimulus chimique en présence de sels organiques, de sels inorganiques ; ou leurs combinaisons. As indicated above, the method according to the invention consists in applying to the treated fibers an external stimulus or a combination of several of them, chosen from a thermal stimulus; a luminous stimulus; a chemical stimulus in the presence of organic salts, inorganic salts; or their combinations.
Ce ou ces stimuli peuvent être mis en œuvre lors de l'application de la composition, après son application ou bien lors de et après l'application de la composition. This or these stimuli can be implemented during the application of the composition, after its application or during and after the application of the composition.
Selon un premier mode de réalisation, le stimulus est thermique. According to a first embodiment, the stimulus is thermal.
Il consiste à appliquer aux fibres kératiniques humaines traitées, une température supérieure à celle à laquelle la composition a été appliquée. Par exemple, la température peut varier entre 30 et 200°C, plus particulièrement entre 30 et 180°C. It consists in applying to the treated human keratin fibers a temperature higher than that at which the composition has been applied. For example, the temperature may vary between 30 and 200 ° C, more particularly between 30 and 180 ° C.
Cette opération peut être réalisée en utilisant par exemple un casque chauffant, une lampe infra-rouge, un fer à lisser ou à friser. This operation can be carried out using for example a heating helmet, an infra-red lamp, a hair straightener or curling iron.
Selon un deuxième mode de réalisation de l'invention, le stimulus est lumineux. According to a second embodiment of the invention, the stimulus is bright.
Il consiste à appliquer aux fibres kératiniques ainsi traitées, un rayonnement UVA, (en particulier d'irradiance comprise entre 0,01 et 0,40 milliwatt/cm2, de préférence comprise entre 0,1 et 0,2 milliwatt/cm2, délivré par lampes à spectre continu ou par des lampes à spectre de raies) et/ou un rayonnement UVB (en particulier d'irradiance comprise entre 0,01 et 0,20 milliwatt/cm2, de préférence comprise entre 0,01 et 0,1 milliwatt/cm2). It consists in applying to the keratinous fibers thus treated a UVA radiation (in particular with an irradiance of between 0.01 and 0.40 milliwatt / cm 2 , preferably between 0.1 and 0.2 milliwatt / cm 2 , delivered by continuous spectrum lamps or by line-spectrum lamps) and / or UVB radiation (in particular with an irradiance of between 0.01 and 0.20 milliwatt / cm 2 , preferably between 0.01 and 0 , 1 milliwatt / cm 2 ).
Selon un troisième mode de réalisation de l'invention, le stimulus est chimique c'est- à-dire qu'il met en œuvre un ou plusieurs sels organiques, sels inorganiques ou leurs combinaisons. On pourra notamment se reporter à ce qui a été indiqué auparavant concernant leur nature. According to a third embodiment of the invention, the stimulus is chemical, that is to say that it implements one or more organic salts, inorganic salts or combinations thereof. In particular, reference may be made to what has been said before concerning their nature.
De préférence, ces composés sont des sels de métaux alcalins, alcalino-terreux ou d'ammonium, de carbonate, hydrogénocarbonate, chlorure, sulfate, silicate, phosphate monobasique, acétate. Preferably, these compounds are alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium salts, carbonate, hydrogencarbonate, chloride, sulfate, silicate, monobasic phosphate, acetate.
Selon une variante préférée de l'invention, ce stimulus est réalisé en mettant en œuvre une composition, comprenant dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, au moins un sel choisi parmi les carbonate de lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium, ammonium ; les hydrogénocarbonates de sodium, potassium ; chlorure de calcium, lithium, sodium ; sulfate d'ammonium, de sodium, de magnésium ; silicate de sodium ; phosphate monobasique de sodium, potassium ; acétate de sodium. According to a preferred variant of the invention, this stimulus is carried out by implementing a composition, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one salt selected from lithium carbonate, sodium, potassium, calcium, ammonium; sodium hydrogencarbonates, potassium; calcium chloride, lithium, sodium; ammonium, sodium, magnesium sulphate; sodium silicate; sodium phosphate monobasic, potassium; sodium acetate.
La composition présente de manière avantageuse une teneur en sel variant de 0,001 et 40% en poids par rapport au poids de la composition, et encore plus préférentiellement entre 0,001 et 20% en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition.
On ne sortirait pas du cadre de la présente invention en réalisant plusieurs étapes successives combinant des stimuli différents les uns des autres. The composition advantageously has a salt content ranging from 0.001 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, and even more preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. It is not beyond the scope of the present invention by performing several successive steps combining stimuli different from each other.
Ainsi, selon un mode de réalisation de ce type, convenant particulièrement bien, le stimulus externe consiste à combiner ou non un stimulus thermique (plus particulièrement à une température supérieure à 70°C) puis lumineux ; un stimulus thermique (plus particulièrement à une température inférieure à 70°C) et un stimulus chimique. Thus, according to one embodiment of this type, particularly suitable, the external stimulus is to combine or not a thermal stimulus (more particularly at a temperature above 70 ° C) and then bright; a thermal stimulus (more particularly at a temperature below 70 ° C) and a chemical stimulus.
La durée totale de l'application du stimulus externe, que celui-ci ne comprenne qu'un seul ou plusieurs types de stimuli, et dans le cas où leur application a lieu après celle de la composition, est habituellement comprise entre 1 minute et 3 heures, de préférence entre 5 minutes et une heure. The total duration of the application of the external stimulus, whether it comprises only one or more types of stimuli, and in the case where their application takes place after that of the composition, is usually between 1 minute and 3 minutes. hours, preferably between 5 minutes and one hour.
A l'issue de l'application du ou des stimuli, si elle a lieu après l'application de la composition, les fibres kératiniques peuvent être rincées à l'eau, éventuellement lavées avec un shampooing, rincées à l'eau et séchées ou laissées à sécher. After the application of the stimulus (s), if it takes place after the application of the composition, the keratinous fibers may be rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo, rinsed with water and dried or left to dry.
La présente invention a également pour objet une composition comprenant, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable comprenant au moins de l'eau, de 0,001 à 10% en poids par rapport au poids de la composition, d'un ou plusieurs composés de formule (II) ci-dessous, ainsi que les sels d'addition : The subject of the present invention is also a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium comprising at least water, from 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, of one or more compounds of formula (II) below, as well as the addition salts:
Formule (II) dans laquelle : Formula (II) in which:
- R5 représente un groupement -C02R'6 dans lequel R'6 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC2, un cation de métal alcalin, un groupement ammonium ; - R 5 represents a group -CO 2 R ' 6 in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group;
R6 représente un hydrogène, un groupement -C02R'6 dans lequel R'6 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC2, un cation de métal alcalin, un groupement ammonium. R 6 represents a hydrogen, a -COR 2 R ' 6 group in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group.
Ce qui a été indiqué précédemment concernant la composition mise en œuvre dans le procédé selon l'invention, de même que les conditions de mises en œuvre de la composition, reste valable dans ce cas et ne sera pas repris ici. What has been indicated above concerning the composition used in the process according to the invention, as well as the conditions for using the composition, remains valid in this case and will not be repeated here.
L'invention concerne également l'utilisation de composés de formule (II) ainsi que leurs sels d'addition, pour la coloration des fibres kératiniques humaines, en particulier les cheveux. The invention also relates to the use of compounds of formula (II) as well as their addition salts, for the dyeing of human keratinous fibers, in particular the hair.
Les exemples ci-dessous illustrent l'invention sans en limiter la portée. The examples below illustrate the invention without limiting its scope.
Exemples de teintures : Examples of dyes:
* Procédés d'application
Les compositions de coloration sont obtenues en dissolvant l'extrait de Genipa americana, éventuellement l'aminé (5x10"3 mol/l ou 10"2 mol/l), et éventuellement le sel (5x10"3 mol/l). * Application processes The coloring compositions are obtained by dissolving the Genipa americana extract, optionally the amine (5 × 10 -3 mol / l or 10 -2 mol / l), and optionally the salt (5 × 10 -3 mol / l).
Chaque composition est appliquée sur des cheveux gris naturels et/ou permanentés à 90% de cheveux blancs, (1 g de mèche pour 10g de solution). Each composition is applied to natural gray hair and / or permed with 90% white hair, (1 g of wick per 10 g of solution).
Après 30 minutes de pause à 35°C ou 80°C, les mèches sont rincées à l'eau. After 30 minutes of pause at 35 ° C or 80 ° C, the locks are rinsed with water.
Deux extraits de Genipa americana très faiblement colorés, l'un contenant 0.35 % de génipine, l'autre 17 % de génipine ont été étudiés. Two very weakly colored Genipa americana extracts, one containing 0.35% genipin and the other 17% genipin were studied.
Ces deux extraits ont été obtenus de la façon suivante : These two extracts were obtained in the following way:
* Extrait naturel de Genipa americana contenant 0.35 % de génipine. * Natural extract of Genipa americana containing 0.35% genipin.
Les fruits de Genipa americana immatures (10 g) sont découpés en morceau, congelés, lyophilisés puis broyés avant d'être extraits à l'eau milliQ. Le rapport de bain est de 1/20 (= 1 g de lyophilisât pour 20ml de solvant). La suspension est mise sous agitation pendant une heure à température ambiante. La matière première est ensuite séparée du solvant par une centrifugation à 7500 tr/min pendant 15 minutes, le surnageant est alors filtré sur filtre Whatman GF/C. Immature Genipa americana fruits (10 g) are cut into pieces, frozen, freeze-dried and milled before being extracted with milliQ water. The bath ratio is 1/20 (= 1 g of lyophilisate per 20 ml of solvent). The suspension is stirred for one hour at room temperature. The raw material is then separated from the solvent by centrifugation at 7500 rpm for 15 minutes, the supernatant is then filtered through Whatman GF / C filter.
Cet extrait filtré est alors congelé puis lyophilisé. This filtered extract is then frozen and freeze-dried.
L'analyse HPLC indique que l'extrait est enrichi à hauteur de 0.35 % en génipine. * Extrait naturel de Genipa americana contenant 17 % de génipine HPLC analysis indicates that the extract is enriched to the extent of 0.35% genipin. * Natural extract of Genipa americana containing 17% genipin
Les fruits de Genipa americana immatures (100 g) sont découpés en morceau, congelés, lyophilisés puis broyés avant d'être extraits à l'eau milliQ. Le rapport de bain est de 1/20 (= 1 g de lyophilisât pour 20ml de solvant). La suspension est mise sous agitation pendant une heure à température ambiante. La matière première est ensuite séparée du solvant par une centrifugation à 7500 tr/min pendant 15 minutes, le surnageant est alors filtré sur filtre Whatman GF/C. Immature Genipa americana fruits (100 g) are cut into pieces, frozen, freeze-dried and ground before being extracted with milliQ water. The bath ratio is 1/20 (= 1 g of lyophilisate per 20 ml of solvent). The suspension is stirred for one hour at room temperature. The raw material is then separated from the solvent by centrifugation at 7500 rpm for 15 minutes, the supernatant is then filtered through Whatman GF / C filter.
Cet extrait filtré est alors congelé puis lyophilisé. This filtered extract is then frozen and freeze-dried.
L'analyse HPLC indique que l'extrait est enrichi à hauteur de 17 % en génipine. HPLC analysis indicates that the extract is enriched to 17% genipin.
Les résultats de ténacité shampooing montrent qu'après 5 shampooings, la perte colonelle est non significative. The results of tenacity shampoo show that after 5 shampoos, the colonelle loss is insignificant.
* Procédés d'application * Application processes
La composition de coloration est obtenue en dissolvant dans 10 ml d'une solution tampon pH 9 l'extrait de Genipa americana l'aminé et le sel. The staining composition is obtained by dissolving in 10 ml of a pH 9 buffer solution the extract of Genipa americana amine and salt.
Chaque composition est appliquée sur des cheveux gris naturels et/ou 30 permanentés à 90% de cheveux blancs, (1 g de mèche pour 10g de solution). Après 30 minutes de pause à 80°C, les mèches sont rincées à l'eau. Un extrait de Genipa americana très faiblement coloré contenant 5,3 % de génipine a été étudiés. Cet extrait a été obtenu de la façon suivante : Each composition is applied to natural gray hair and / or permed with 90% of white hair, (1 g of wick per 10 g of solution). After 30 minutes of rest at 80 ° C., the locks are rinsed with water. A very weakly colored Genipa americana extract containing 5.3% genipin was studied. This extract was obtained as follows:
* Extrait naturel de Genipa americana contenant 5.3 % de génipine. * Natural extract of Genipa americana containing 5.3% genipin.
Les fruits de Genipa americana immatures (200 g) sont découpés en morceaux, congelés, lyophilisés puis broyés avant d'être extraits à l'eau milliQ. Immature Genipa americana fruits (200 g) are cut into pieces, frozen, freeze-dried and milled before being extracted with milliQ water.
Le rapport de bain est de 1/20 (= 1 g de lyophilisât pour 20ml de solvant).
La suspension est mise sous agitation pendant une heure à température ambiante. La matière première est ensuite séparée du solvant par une centrifugation à 7500 tr/min pendant 15 minutes, le surnageant est alors filtré sur filtre Whatman GF/C. The bath ratio is 1/20 (= 1 g of lyophilisate per 20 ml of solvent). The suspension is stirred for one hour at room temperature. The raw material is then separated from the solvent by centrifugation at 7500 rpm for 15 minutes, the supernatant is then filtered through Whatman GF / C filter.
Cet extrait filtré est alors congelé puis lyophilisé. This filtered extract is then frozen and freeze-dried.
L'analyse HPLC indique que l'extrait est enrichi à hauteur de 5.3 % en génipine. HPLC analysis indicates that the extract is enriched to the extent of 5.3% genipin.
Les résultats de ténacité shampooing montrent qu'après 5 shampooings, la perte colonelle est non significative. The results of tenacity shampoo show that after 5 shampoos, the colonelle loss is insignificant.
Remarque : Tampon pH 9 : une ampoule Titrisol pH 9 ([H3B03] = 0.05mol.l"1, [KCI] = 0.05mol.r1, [NaOH] = 0.022mol.l"1) dans 500 ml d'eau désionisée.
Note: Buffer pH 9: a Titrisol pH 9 ampoule ([H 3 B0 3 ] = 0.05mol.l "1 , [KCl] = 0.05mol.r 1 , [NaOH] = 0.022mol.l " 1 ) in 500 ml deionized water.
Claims
REVENDICATIONS
1 . Procédé de coloration de fibres kératiniques humaines dans lequel on applique une composition comprenant, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, un extrait végétal comprenant au moins un composé de formule (I) et/ou de formule (II), ou leurs sels d'addition, en combinaison avec un stimulus externe ou une combinaison de plusieurs d'entre eux, choisi parmi : 1. A process for staining human keratin fibers in which a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a plant extract comprising at least one compound of formula (I) and / or of formula (II), or their addition salts, is applied in combination with an external stimulus or a combination of several of them, selected from:
Stimulus thermique ; Thermal stimulus;
Stimulus lumineux ; Luminous stimulus;
Stimulus chimique réalisé au moyen d'un ou plusieurs sels organiques, d'un ou plusieurs sels inorganiques; Chemical stimulus made with one or more organic salts, one or more inorganic salts;
Les formules (I) et (II) étant les suivantes : Formulas (I) and (II) being the following:
Formules (I) et/ou (II) dans lesquelles : Formulas (I) and / or (II) in which:
Ri représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical méthyle, un radical hydroxyméthyle, un groupement aldéhyde ; un groupement -C02R4 dans lequel R4 représente un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en CrC2 ; un groupement -CH2-glucose ; R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical, a hydroxymethyl radical, an aldehyde group; a group -C0 2 R 4 in which R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical; a -CH 2 -glucose group;
R2 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical hydroxyle, un radical glucose ; R3, identiques ou non, représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un radical hydroxyle, un radical alkyl(d-C4)oxy ; le nombre de groupement hydroxyle n'étant pas supérieur à 2 ; R 2 represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a glucose radical; R 3 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or an alkyl (dC 4 ) oxy radical; the number of hydroxyl groups not being greater than 2;
n est un entier compris entre 1 et 5 ; n is an integer from 1 to 5;
R5 représente un groupement -C02R'6 dans lequel R'6 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC2, un cation de métal alcalin, un groupement ammonium ; R 5 represents a group -CO 2 R ' 6 in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation or an ammonium group;
R6 représente un hydrogène, un groupement -C02R'6 dans lequel R'6 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC2, un cation de métal alcalin, un groupement ammonium. R 6 represents a hydrogen, a group -C0 2 R ' 6 in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group.
2. Procédé de coloration selon la revendication précédente, dans lequel l'extrait végétal provient des plantes suivantes : Veronica persica ; Genipa americana ;2. The method of coloring according to the preceding claim, wherein the plant extract is from the following plants: Veronica persica; Genipa americana;
Apodytes dimidiata ; Randia canthioides ; Tarenna attenuata, de préférence Genipa americana.
Procédé de coloration selon la revendication précédente, dans lequel la teneur en composé de formule (I) et/ou de formule (II) de la composition est comprise entre 0,001 et 10 % en poids par rapport au poids de la composition. Apodytes dimidiata; Randia canthioides; Tarenna attenuata, preferably Genipa americana. Coloring process according to the preceding claim, wherein the content of compound of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) of the composition is between 0.001 and 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel la composition comprend au moins de l'ammoniaque, de l'hydroxylamine, une amine primaire ou secondaire, ou leurs mélanges. A process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition comprises at least ammonia, hydroxylamine, a primary or secondary amine, or mixtures thereof.
Procédé selon la revendication précédente, dans lequel l'aminé est choisie parmi les aminés de formule (III) détaillée ci-dessous, les polymères aminés, les bases puriques, ainsi que leurs sels d'addition, et leurs combinaisons ; Process according to the preceding claim, in which the amine is chosen from the amines of formula (III) detailed below, the amine polymers, the purine bases, as well as their addition salts, and combinations thereof;
R'7R'8NH (III) R ' 7 R' 8 NH (III)
Formule (III) dans laquelle R'7, R'8, représentent indépendamment l'un de l'autre :Formula (III) in which R ' 7 , R' 8 , represent independently of one another:
- un atome d'hydrogène - a hydrogen atom
- un radical hydrocarboné en CrC2o, linéaire, ramifié et/ou cyclique, saturé et/ou insaturé, aromatique ou non, pouvant contenir de 1 à 5 doubles liaisons carbone- carbone et/ou éventuellement substitué, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou par un ou plusieurs groupements comprenant au moins un hétéroatome ou groupement comprenant au moins un hétéroatome (de préférence choisi parmi l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, C=0, C=S, SO, S02 ou leurs combinaisons) ; lesdits radicaux R'7 et R'8 hydrocarbonés pouvant éventuellement former avec l'atome d'azote auquel chacun est rattaché, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 7 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé, éventuellement substitué, éventuellement aromatique, éventuellement condensé à un noyau aromatique ou hétéroaromatique à 6 chaînons, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote; le radical hydrocarboné ne comportant pas de fonction nitro, nitroso, peroxo ou diazo a linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated and / or unsaturated C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon-based radical, aromatic or otherwise, which may contain from 1 to 5 carbon-carbon and / or optionally substituted double bonds, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or with one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom or group comprising at least one heteroatom (preferably chosen from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, C = O, C = S, SO, S0 2 or their combinations); said hydrocarbon radicals R ' 7 and R' 8 possibly being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which each is attached, a 5- or 7-membered, optionally substituted, optionally aromatic, saturated or unsaturated heterocycle, optionally fused to an aromatic ring or heteroaromatic 6-membered ring, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen; the hydrocarbon radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function
Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel la ou les aminés sont des composés de formule (III), en particulier choisis parmi les composés de formules (Nia) à (UN), (UN') ci-dessous, ainsi que leurs sels d'addition : o les acides aminés et/ou dérivés de formule générale (Nia) : Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more amines are compounds of formula (III), in particular chosen from compounds of formulas (Nia) to (UN), (UN ') below, and that their addition salts: amino acids and / or derivatives of general formula (Nia):
Formule (Nia) dans laquelle : Formula (Nia) in which:
- R9 représente un atome d'hydrogène un radical alkyle en CrC6, linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyle, hydroxycarbonyle, thiol, alkyl(CrC4)thio, amido, amino, guanidine, un radical phényle, éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxyle, un radical indolyle éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxyle, un radical imidazolyle, un
radical pyrrolinyle éventuellement substitué par un groupement alkyle en CrC2 ; ou un radical phényle non substitué R 9 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, preferably substituted by one or more hydroxyl, hydroxycarbonyl, thiol, alkyl (C 1 -C 4 ) thio, amido, amino, guanidine or phenyl radicals; optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyls, an indolyl radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls, an imidazolyl radical, a pyrrolinyl radical optionally substituted by a C 1 -C 2 alkyl group; or an unsubstituted phenyl radical
- R'g représente un hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C4, ou un radical phényle non substitué R'g represents a hydrogen, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or an unsubstituted phenyl radical;
- Rio représente un hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en Ci-C4. - Rio represents hydrogen or an alkyl radical Ci-C 4.
- R'g et R9 pouvant former ensemble avec l'atome d'azote auquel ils sont rattachés, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons saturé. - R'g and R 9 can form together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered saturated heterocycle.
o les esters issus d'acides aminés et/ou dérivés de formule générale esters derived from amino acids and / or derivatives of general formula
(lllb) : (lllb):
Formule (lllb) dans laquelle : Formula (IIIb) in which:
- Rg représente un atome d'hydrogène un radical alkyle en CrC6, linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyle, hydroxycarbonyle, alcoxy(CrC4)carbonyle, thiol, alkyl(d-C4)thio, amido, amino, guanidine, un radical phényle, éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxyle, un radical indolyle éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxyle, un radical imidazolyle, un radical pyrrolinyle éventuellement substitué par un groupement alkyle en CrC2 ; ou un radical phényle non substitué - Rg represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, preferably substituted with one or more hydroxyl, hydroxycarbonyl, alkoxy (C 1 -C 4 ) carbonyl, thiol, alkyl (dC 4 ) thio, amido, amino groups; guanidine, a phenyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls, an indolyl radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls, an imidazolyl radical, a pyrrolinyl radical optionally substituted with a C 1 -C 2 alkyl group; or an unsubstituted phenyl radical
- R'g représente un hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC4, ou un radical phényle non substitué ; - R'g represents a hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, or an unsubstituted phenyl radical;
- Rio représente un hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en d-C4 ; - Rio represents a hydrogen or an alkyl radical in dC 4 ;
- R'g et Rg pouvant former ensemble avec l'atome d'azote auquel ils sont rattachés, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons saturé ; - R'g and Rg may form together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a saturated 5- or 6-membered heterocycle;
- Ru représente : - Ru represents:
- un radical hydrocarboné en C Ci8 linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé et comprenant éventuellement de une à 5 doubles liaisons carbone-carbone conjuguées ou non, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou par un ou plusieurs groupements comprenant au moins un hétéroatome, de préférence choisis parmi l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, C=0, C=S, SO, S02 ou leurs combinaisons ; le radical alkyle ne comportant pas de fonction nitro, nitroso, peroxo ou diazo ; a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 8 hydrocarbon radical and optionally comprising one to five conjugated or unsubstituted carbon-carbon double bonds, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or more a plurality of groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably selected from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, C = O, C = S, SO, SO 2 or combinations thereof; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function;
- un radical benzyle non substitué an unsubstituted benzyl radical
Rg et Ru pouvant éventuellement former un cycle carboné saturé à 5 chaînons, o les amides et les thioesters issus d'acides aminés et/ou dérivés de formule générale (lllc) :
Rg and Ru possibly forming a 5-membered saturated carbon ring, where amides and thioesters derived from amino acids and / or derivatives of general formula (IIIc):
Formule (lllc) dans laquelle : Formula (IIIc) in which:
- Rg représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC6, linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyle, alcoxy(CrC4)carbonyle, hydroxycarbonyle, thiol, alkyl(d-C4)thio, amido, amino, guanidine, un radical phényle, éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxyle, un radical indolyle éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxyle, un radical imidazolyle, un radical pyrrolinyle éventuellement substitué par un groupement alkyle en CrC2 ; - Rg represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, preferably substituted by one or more hydroxyl, alkoxy (C 1 -C 4 ) carbonyl, hydroxycarbonyl, thiol, alkyl (dC 4 ) thio, amido, amino, guanidine, a phenyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, an indolyl radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyls, an imidazolyl radical, a pyrrolinyl radical optionally substituted with a C 1 -C 2 alkyl group;
- R'9 représente un hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en CrC4, éventuellement substitué par un radical hydroxysulfonyle ; - R ' 9 represents a hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by a hydroxysulfonyl radical;
- Rio représente un hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en Ci-C4. - Rio represents hydrogen or an alkyl radical Ci-C 4.
- R'9 et Rg pouvant former ensemble avec l'atome d'azote auquel ils sont rattachés, un hétérocycle à 5 chaînons saturé. - R ' 9 and Rg can form together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a saturated 5-membered heterocycle.
- R12 représente : R12 represents:
*un atome hydrogène * a hydrogen atom
* un radical alkyle en CrC6, de préférence substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyle, thiol, alkyl(d-C4)thio, amido, amino, un radical phényle, éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxyle, un radical indolyle éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxyle, un radical imidazolyle, un radical pyrrolinyle éventuellement substitué par un groupement alkyle en CrC2 * An alkyl radical -C 6, preferably substituted by one or more hydroxyl, thiol, alkyl (dC 4) alkylthio, amido, amino, phenyl, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl, indolyl optionally substituted by a radical or more hydroxyl, an imidazolyl radical, a pyrrolinyl radical optionally substituted by a C 1 -C 2 alkyl group
- X représente un atome de soufre ou d'azote. X represents a sulfur or nitrogen atom.
- Rg et R12 pouvant éventuellement former un cycle carboné saturé à 5, 6, 7 chaînons. - Rg and R 12 may optionally form a saturated carbon ring with 5, 6, 7 members.
o Des composés aminés de formule générale (Nid) : o Amino compounds of general formula (Nid):
Formule (Nid) dans laquelle : Formula (Nest) in which:
- R13, i4, is, Ri6 représentent indépendamment les uns des autres : - R13, i 4, is, Ri6 independently of one another:
*un atome hydrogène * a hydrogen atom
*un radical hydrocarboné en CrC2o, linéaire, ramifié et/ou cyclique, saturé et/ou insaturé, pouvant contenir de 1 à 5 doubles liaisons carbone-carbone, éventuellement aromatique, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou par un ou plusieurs groupements comprenant au moins un hétéroatome, de
préférence choisis parmi l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, CO, C=S, SO, S02 ou leurs combinaisons, éventuellement porteurs d'au moins un groupement hydroxyle ou alcoxy en CrC2, lesdits radicaux alkyle R13 et R14 ou Ri4 et R15 ou R15 et R16 pouvant éventuellement former avec l'atome de carbone auquel chacun est rattaché, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 7 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement aromatique, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote; le radical alkyle ne comportant pas de fonction nitro, nitroso, peroxo ou diazo ; plus particulièrement un radical alkyle en C-I-C-IO, éventuellement substitué ; et de préférence, un radical alkyle en CrC8 linéaire ou ramifié éventuellement substitué par au moins un groupement hydroxyle, de préférence de 1 à 2 groupements hydroxyle, un radical hydroxycarbonyle, un radical ureido, un radical alcoxy(Cr C4)carbonyle ; un radical phényle non substitué ; * A hydrocarbon -C radical 2 o linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated and / or unsaturated, optionally containing from 1 to 5 double carbon-carbon bonds, optionally aromatic, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more hetero atoms and / or one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably selected from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, C = S, SO, SO 2 or combinations thereof, optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group or C 1 -C 2 alkoxy, said alkyl radicals R 13 and R 14 or Ri 4 and R 15 or R 15 and R 16 may optionally form with the carbon atom to which each is attached, a 5- or 7-membered saturated or unsaturated heterocycle, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical or different from nitrogen; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function; more particularly an alkyl radical in CIC-10, optionally substituted; and preferably, a linear or branched C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl group, preferably from 1 to 2 hydroxyl groups, a hydroxycarbonyl radical, an ureido radical or an (C 1 -C 4 ) alkoxycarbonyl radical; an unsubstituted phenyl radical;
- X représente un atome d'azote, d'oxygène ou de soufre. X represents a nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur atom.
- R17 représente : R17 represents:
*un atome hydrogène * a hydrogen atom
*un radical hydrocarboné en C Ci8 linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé et comprenant éventuellement de une à 5 doubles liaisons carbone-carbone conjuguées ou non, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou par un ou plusieurs groupements comprenant au moins un hétéroatome, de préférence choisis parmi l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, CO, C=S, SO, S02 ou leurs combinaisons ; le radical alkyle ne comportant pas de fonction nitro, nitroso, peroxo ou diazo ; plus particulièrement R17 représente un radical alkyle en C-I-C-IO, éventuellement substitué ; et de préférence, un radical alkyle en d-C4 linéaire ou ramifié éventuellement substitué par au moins un groupement hydroxyle, de préférence de 1 à 2 groupements hydroxyle ; * A hydrocarbon radical C Ci 8 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and optionally comprising one to five carbon-carbon double bonds conjugated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or a plurality of groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably selected from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, C = S, SO, SO 2 or combinations thereof; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function; more particularly, R 17 represents an optionally substituted CIC-10 alkyl radical; and preferably, a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, preferably from 1 to 2 hydroxyl groups;
- Ris représente : - Ris represents:
*un atome d'hydrogène * a hydrogen atom
*un radical alkyle en CrC8 linéaire ou ramifié éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou par un ou plusieurs groupements comprenant au moins un hétéroatome, de préférence choisis parmi l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, CO, C=S, SO, S02 ou leurs combinaisons, éventuellement porteurs d'au moins un groupement hydroxyle ou alcoxy en d-C2 ; le radical alkyle ne comportant pas de fonction nitro, nitroso, peroxo ou diazo, a linear or branched C 1 -C 8 alkyl radical optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably chosen from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, C = S, SO, SO 2 or combinations thereof, optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group or alkoxy group in dC 2 ; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function,
- n est un entier compris entre 0 et 5 ; - n is an integer between 0 and 5;
- R-I6 et R17 pouvant éventuellement former avec l'atome de carbone pour R16 et l'atome X pour le radical Ri7 auquel chacun est rattaché, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué
précédemment, éventuellement aromatique, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote ; - R-I6 and R 17 may optionally form, with the carbon atom to R 16 and the atom X to the radical R 7 which each is attached, a 5- or 6-membered, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated previously, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen;
-Ris et R-15 peuvent éventuellement former avec l'atome de d'azote pour R18 et l'atome de carbone pour le radical R15 auquel chacun est rattaché, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement aromatique, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote. -Ris-1 and R 5 may optionally form, with the atom of nitrogen to R 18 and the carbon atom of the radical R15 which each is attached, a 5- or 6-membered, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen.
o Des composés aminés de formule générale (Nie) : o Amino compounds of general formula (Nie):
Formule (Nie) dans laquelle : Formula (Nie) in which:
- R13, R14, Ris, Ri6 et R18 ont la même signification que précédemment. - R13, R14, Ris, Ri6 and R 18 have the same meaning as above.
- R19 représente : R19 represents:
*un atome d'hydrogène * a hydrogen atom
*un radical alkyle en CrC8 linéaire ou ramifié éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou par un ou plusieurs groupements comprenant au moins un hétéroatome, de préférence choisis parmi l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, CO, C=S, SO, S02 ou leurs combinaisons, éventuellement porteurs d'au moins un groupement hydroxyle ou alcoxy en CrC2 ; le radical alkyle ne comportant pas de fonction nitro, nitroso, peroxo ou diazo, * A linear alkyl radical -C 8 branched or optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably selected from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, C = S, SO, SO 2 or combinations thereof, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group or C 1 -C 2 alkoxy; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function,
- m est un entier compris entre 0 et 7, m is an integer from 0 to 7,
- u est un entier égal à 1 ou 2. Lorsque u vaut 2 alors le radical Ri8 représente un hydrogène ; - u is an integer equal to 1 or 2. When u is 2 then the radical R 8 represents hydrogen;
- R-I3 et R14 pouvant éventuellement former avec l'atome de carbone pour R13 et R14 auquel ces substituants sont rattachée, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons, saturé o Des composés aminés de formule générale (Il If) : - R-13 and R 14 may optionally form with the carbon atom for R 13 and R 14 to which these substituents are attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, saturated o Amino compounds of general formula (II If):
Formule (lllf) dans laquelle : Formula (IIIf) in which:
- R13, RM, Ris, Ri6 et R18 ont la même signification que précédemment ; - R13, RM, Ris, Ri6 and R 18 have the same meaning as above;
- R13, RM, R15 et R16, indépendamment les uns des autres, peuvent représenter un radical hydroxy, un radical aikoxy (CrC4)carbonyle, un radical carboxaldéhyde, un aikoxy (CrC3) ; - R13, RM, R15 and R 16, independently of each other may represent a hydroxyl radical, a radical aikoxy (C 4) carbonyl group, a carboxaldehyde, an aikoxy (-C 3);
- m est un entier compris entre 1 et 18
- X représente un atome d'oxygène, un groupement SH ou OH, un groupement méthylène éventuellement substitué par un radical hydroxy, - m is an integer between 1 and 18 X represents an oxygen atom, an SH or OH group, a methylene group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl radical,
- lorsque X représente un atome d'oxygène, alors Ri8 forme un cycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs hydroxy(méthyl), de préférence de 1 à 4 groupements hydroxy(méthyle) when X represents an oxygen atom, then R 8 forms a 5- or 6-membered ring optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy (methyl), preferably from 1 to 4, hydroxy (methyl) groups;
- R-I6 et R-is ou R-I3 et R18 pouvant éventuellement former avec l'atome de carbone pour R16 (ou pour R13) et l'atome d'azote pour le radical Ri8 auquel chacun est rattaché, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement aromatique, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote. - R-I6 and R-is or R-I3 and R 18 may optionally form, with the carbon atom to R 16 (or R 13) and the nitrogen atom of the radical R 8 which each is attached, a 5- or 6-membered, saturated or unsaturated heterocycle, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen.
o Des composés aminés de formule générale (lllg) : o Amino compounds of general formula (IIIg):
Formule (lllg) dans laquelle : Formula (IIIg) in which:
- R13, R14, Ris, Ri6 et R18 ont la même signification que précédemment. - R13, R14, Ris, Ri6 and R 18 have the same meaning as above.
- R2o représente - R 2 o represents
*un radical alkyle linéaire en C1-C4 * A linear alkyl C1-C4
*un radical alcoxy linéaire en C1-C4 a linear C1-C4 alkoxy radical
- o est un entier compris entre 0 et 5. o is an integer between 0 and 5.
- v est un entier valant 1 ou 2. v is an integer of 1 or 2.
- Lorsque v vaut 2 alors Ri8 représente un hydrogène. - When v is 2 then Ri 8 represents a hydrogen.
o Des composés aminés de formule générale (lllh) : o Amino compounds of general formula (IIIh):
Formule (lllh) dans laquelle : Formula (IIIh) in which:
- R13, RM, Ris, R16 et R18 ont la même signification que précédemment ; - R13, RM, Ris, R16 and R 18 have the same meaning as above;
- R13, RM, R15 et R16, indépendamment les uns des autres, peuvent aussi représenter un radical hydroxy, un radical alcoxy(CrC4) carbonyle, un radical carboxaldéhyde, un alcoxy (en C1-C3) - R13, RM, R15 and R 16, independently of each other, may also represent a hydroxyl radical, an alkoxy radical (-C 4) alkoxycarbonyl, carboxaldehyde radical, an alkoxy (C1-C3)
- R21 et R22 représentent indépendamment l'un de l'autre : - R21 and R22 represent independently of one another:
*un atome d'hydrogène * a hydrogen atom
*un radical hydrocarboné en C1-C20, linéaire, ramifié et/ou cyclique, saturé et/ou insaturé, pouvant contenir de 1 à 5 doubles liaisons carbone-carbone, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou par un ou plusieurs groupements comprenant au moins
un hétéroatome, de préférence choisis parmi l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, CO, C=S, SO, S02 ou leurs combinaisons, éventuellement porteurs d'au moins un groupement hydroxyle ou alcoxy en C1-C2, plus particulièrement un radical alkyle en C1-C10, éventuellement substitué ; et de préférence, un radical alkyle en C1-C4 linéaire ou ramifié éventuellement substitué par au moins un groupement hydroxyle, de préférence de 1 à 2 groupements hydroxyle ; * A hydrocarbon C1-C20, straight-chain, branched and / or cyclic, saturated and / or unsaturated, optionally containing from 1 to 5 double carbon-carbon bonds, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or more groups comprising at least a heteroatom, preferably selected from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, C = S, SO, SO 2 or combinations thereof, optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl or C 1 -C 2 alkoxy group, more particularly an optionally substituted C1-C10 alkyl radical; and preferably, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, preferably from 1 to 2 hydroxyl groups;
- R21 et R22 pouvant éventuellement former avec l'atome d'azote auxquels ils sont rattachés, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 7 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement aromatique, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote; le radical alkyle ne comportant pas de fonction nitro, nitroso, peroxo ou diazo, - R21 and R22 may optionally form with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 7-membered heterocycle, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from the 'nitrogen; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function,
- p est un entier compris entre 1 et 10. p is an integer between 1 and 10.
- R16 et R21 pouvant éventuellement former avec l'atome de carbone pour R16 et l'atome d'azote pour le radical R21 auquel chacun est rattaché, un hétérocycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement aromatique, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote ; - R16 and R21 may optionally form with the carbon atom for R 16 and the nitrogen atom for the radical R21 to which each is attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical to or different from nitrogen;
- Ris et R21 pouvant éventuellement former avec l'atome d'azote auquel chacun est rattaché, un hétérocycle comprenant de à 5 à 14 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé, éventuellement substitué comme indiqué précédemment, éventuellement aromatique, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote. - Ris and R21 may optionally form with the nitrogen atom to which each is attached, a heterocycle comprising 5 to 14 members, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted as indicated above, optionally aromatic, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical or different nitrogen.
o Les composés aminés de formule générale (llli) et/ou (llli') :
The amino compounds of general formula (IIIll) and / or (IIIll):
Formules (llli) et/ou (llli') dans laquelle : Formulas (IIIi) and / or (IIIi ') in which:
- R23 et R24 représentent indépendamment l'un de l'autre : - R23 and R 2 4 represent independently of one another:
*un radical alkyle en CrC6, éventuellement substitué, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou par un ou plusieurs groupements comprenant au moins un hétéroatome, de préférence choisis parmi l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, CO, SO, S02 ou leurs combinaisons ; le radical alkyle ne comportant pas de fonction nitro, nitroso, peroxo ou diazo ; an optionally substituted C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and / or by one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably chosen from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, CO, SO , S0 2 or combinations thereof; the alkyl radical having no nitro, nitroso, peroxo or diazo function;
*un radical alkylcarbonyle (R-CO-) dans lequel R représente un radical alkyle en * An alkylcarbonyl radical (R-CO-) in which R represents an alkyl radical
*un radical alkylsulfonyle (RS02-) dans lequel R représente un radical alkyle en CI -C4. * An alkylsulfonyl radical (RS0 2 -) wherein R is CI -C4 alkyl radical.
*un radical (di-)(alkyl)aminosulfonyle ((R)2N-S02-) dans lequel les radicaux R indépendamment représentent un hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C4.
*un radical (di-)(alkyl) aminocarbonyle (R)2N-CO-) dans lequel les radicaux R indépendamment représentent un hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C4. * A (di -) (alkyl) aminosulfonyl ((R) 2 N-S0 2 -) in which the radicals R independently represent hydrogen, alkyl C1-C4. * A (di -) (alkyl) aminocarbonyl (R) 2 N-CO-) in which the radicals R independently represent hydrogen, alkyl C1-C4.
*un atome d'halogène choisi de préférence parmi le brome, le chlore ou le fluor. * A halogen atom preferably selected from bromine, chlorine or fluorine.
*un groupement alcoxy en C1-C4 ; * An alkoxy group C1-C4;
*un groupement (poly)hydroxyalcoxy en C2-C4 ; * A (poly) hydroxyalkoxy, C 2 -C 4 alkyl;
*un groupement hydroxycarbonyle (HO-CO-) * Hydroxycarbonyl group (HO-CO-)
*un groupement alcoxycarbonyle (RO-CO-) dans lequel R représente un radical alkyle en C1-C4, * An alkoxycarbonyl group (RO-CO-) in which R represents an alkyl radical in C1-C4,
*un groupement alkylcarbonylamino (RCO-NR'-) dans lequel le radical R représente un radical alkyle en C1-C4 et le radical R' représente un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en C1-C4 ; * An alkylcarbonylamino group (RCO-NR'-) in which the radical R represents an alkyl radical in C1-C4 and R 'represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl C1-C4;
*un radical alkylsulfonyle (RS02-) dans lequel le radical R représente un radical alkyle en C1-C4 ; * An alkylsulfonyl radical (RS0 2 -) wherein the radical R is an alkyl C1-C4;
- Y représente un atome de carbone ou d'azote Y represents a carbon or nitrogen atom
- z, z', z" représente indépendamment les uns des autres un atome de carbone, un atome d'azote ou un atome d'azote substitué par un hydrogène z, z ', z "independently of one another represents a carbon atom, a nitrogen atom or a nitrogen atom substituted with a hydrogen
- q est un entier compris entre 0 et 2 ; lorsque q est inférieur à 2, le ou les atomes de carbone non substitués porte(nt) un atome d'hydrogène q is an integer between 0 and 2; when q is less than 2, the unsubstituted carbon atom (s) carry (s) a hydrogen atom
- q' est un entier égale à 0 ou 1 ; lorsque q' est inférieur à 1 , le ou les atomes de carbone non substitués porte(nt) un atome d'hydrogène. q 'is an integer equal to 0 or 1; when q 'is less than 1, the unsubstituted carbon atom (s) carry (s) a hydrogen atom.
Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel la ou les aminés primaires ou secondaires sont choisies parmi les composés de formule (III), de préférence parmi les composés de formule (lllb), (III c) avec plus particulièrement X représentant un atome d'azote, (Nid) où X représente plus particulièrement un atome d'azote ou d'oxygène, (llle), (lllf) avec X représentant tout particulièrement un atome d'oxygène, OH ou un groupement méthylène éventuellement substitué par un radical hydroxy, (lllg), (lllh) et (UN'), seuls ou en mélange.. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the primary or secondary amine or amines are chosen from compounds of formula (III), preferably from compounds of formula (IIIb), (IIIc) with more particularly X representing a nitrogen atom, (Nid) where X is more particularly a nitrogen or oxygen atom, (IIIe), (IIIf) with X being very particularly an oxygen atom, OH or a methylene group optionally substituted by a hydroxy, (IIIg), (IIIh) and (UN ') radical, alone or in admixture.
Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel la teneur en composé de formule (I) et/ou de formule (II) dans l'extrait sec varie de 0,01 à 30 % en poids.. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the content of compound of formula (I) and / or of formula (II) in the solids content ranges from 0.01 to 30% by weight.
Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel la teneur en amine(s) primaire(s) ou secondaire(s) présente(s) dans la composition est comprise entre 0,001 et 65 % en poids ; et de préférence entre 0,001 et 30 % en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the content of primary or secondary amine (s) present in the composition is from 0.001 to 65% by weight; and preferably between 0.001 and 30% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le stimulus thermique consiste à appliquer une température comprise entre 30 et 200°C, plus particulièrement entre 30 et 180°C. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thermal stimulus consists in applying a temperature of between 30 and 200 ° C, more particularly between 30 and 180 ° C.
Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le stimulus lumineux consiste à appliquer un rayonnement UVA, en particulier
d'irradiance comprise entre 0,01 et 0,40 milliwatt/cm2, et/ou un rayonnement UVB en particulier d'irradiance comprise entre 0,01 et 0,20 milliwatt/cm2. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the light stimulus is to apply UVA radiation, in particular with an irradiance of between 0.01 and 0.40 milliwatt / cm 2 , and / or a UVB radiation, in particular with an irradiance of between 0.01 and 0.20 milliwatt / cm 2 .
12. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le stimulus chimique consiste à mettre en œuvre un ou plusieurs sels organiques, inorganiques comprenant : The method of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the chemical stimulus comprises the use of one or more inorganic organic salts comprising:
* d'une part des anions inorganiques choisis parmi les chlorure, carbonate, hydrogénocarbonate, sulfate, hydrogénosulfate, silicate, phosphate, hydrogénophosphate, à l'exception de l'hydroxyde, ou des anions organiques choisis parmi les aspartate, formiate, acétate, lactate, citrate, gluconate, succinate, malate, fumarate, orotate ; * Firstly inorganic anions selected from chloride, carbonate, hydrogencarbonate, sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, silicate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, with the exception of the hydroxide, or organic anion selected from aspartate, formate, acetate, lactate citrate, gluconate, succinate, malate, fumarate, orotate;
* d'autre part des cations issus de métaux alcalins, alcalino-terreux, de métaux de transition comme les scandium, titane, vanadium, manganèse, fer, cobalt, nickel, cuivre, zinc, argent, or, ou des ammoniums. * on the other hand cations from alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, transition metals such as scandium, titanium, vanadium, manganese, iron, cobalt, nickel, copper, zinc, silver, gold, or ammoniums.
13. Procédé selon la revendication précédente, dans lequel les sels organiques et inorganiques sont choisis parmi les sels de métaux alcalins, alcalino-terreux ou d'ammonium, de carbonate, hydrogénocarbonate, chlorure, sulfate, silicate, phosphate monobasique, acétate, et leurs mélanges 13. Process according to the preceding claim, in which the organic and inorganic salts are chosen from alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium, carbonate, hydrogencarbonate, chloride, sulfate, silicate, monobasic phosphate, acetate salts, and their salts. mixtures
14. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel les sels organiques et inorganiques sont présents dans la composition ; leur teneur représentant de 0,001 et 40% en poids par rapport au poids de la composition, et encore plus préférentiellement entre 0,001 et 20% en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition. The process of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the organic and inorganic salts are present in the composition; their content representing 0.001 and 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, and even more preferably between 0.001 and 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
15. Composition comprenant, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable comprenant au moins de l'eau, de 0,001 à 10% en poids par rapport au poids de la composition, d'un ou plusieurs composés de formule (II) ci-dessous : 15. Composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium comprising at least water, from 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, of one or more compounds of formula (II) below:
Formule (II) dans laquelle : Formula (II) in which:
- R5 représente un groupement -C02R'6 dans lequel R'6 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC2, un cation de métal alcalin, un groupement ammonium ; - R 5 represents a group -CO 2 R ' 6 in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group;
- R6 représente un hydrogène, un groupement -C02R'6 dans lequel R'6 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC2, un cation de métal alcalin, un groupement ammonium. - R 6 represents a hydrogen, a -C0 2 R'6 group wherein R ' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group.
16. Utilisation pour la coloration de fibres kératiniques humaines, d'un ou plusieurs composés de formule (II) ci-dessous :
16. Use for staining human keratinous fibers with one or more compounds of formula (II) below:
Formule (II) dans laquelle : Formula (II) in which:
R5 représente un groupement -C02R'6 dans lequel R'6 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC2, un cation de métal alcalin, un groupement ammonium ; R 5 represents a group -CO 2 R ' 6 in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group;
R6 représente un hydrogène, un groupement -C02R'6 dans lequel R'6 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en CrC2, un cation de métal alcalin, un groupement ammonium.
R 6 represents a hydrogen, a -COR 2 R ' 6 group in which R' 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group.
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
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FR1052178A FR2957794B1 (en) | 2010-03-25 | 2010-03-25 | COLORING PROCESS INVOLVING NON-GLYCOSYLIC IRIDOID COLORANTS, TINCTORIAL COMPOSITION AND USE |
FR1052178 | 2010-03-25 | ||
US31792810P | 2010-03-26 | 2010-03-26 | |
US61/317,928 | 2010-03-26 |
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PCT/FR2011/050646 WO2011117553A1 (en) | 2010-03-25 | 2011-03-25 | Dyeing method using non-glycosylated iridoid dyes, dyeing composition and use thereof |
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Cited By (5)
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WO2014154871A1 (en) * | 2013-03-29 | 2014-10-02 | L'oreal | Dyeing process using an iridoid compound and devices for the same |
WO2014155016A1 (en) * | 2013-03-29 | 2014-10-02 | L'oreal | Optionally protected iridoid-derived compounds, composition including same, use as a dye for keratin fibres and devices |
FR3003760A1 (en) * | 2013-03-29 | 2014-10-03 | Oreal | COLORING METHOD USING IRIDOID COMPOUND AND DEVICES |
CN105073757A (en) * | 2013-03-29 | 2015-11-18 | 莱雅公司 | Dyeing method using hair dyeing precursors obtained from iridoids, compositions comprising the same, precursors and devices |
US11944700B2 (en) | 2015-06-19 | 2024-04-02 | inkbox ink Inc. | Body ink compositions and applicators |
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Cited By (9)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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WO2014154871A1 (en) * | 2013-03-29 | 2014-10-02 | L'oreal | Dyeing process using an iridoid compound and devices for the same |
WO2014155016A1 (en) * | 2013-03-29 | 2014-10-02 | L'oreal | Optionally protected iridoid-derived compounds, composition including same, use as a dye for keratin fibres and devices |
FR3003760A1 (en) * | 2013-03-29 | 2014-10-03 | Oreal | COLORING METHOD USING IRIDOID COMPOUND AND DEVICES |
FR3003759A1 (en) * | 2013-03-29 | 2014-10-03 | Oreal | COLORING METHOD USING IRIDOID COMPOUND AND DEVICES |
FR3003860A1 (en) * | 2013-03-29 | 2014-10-03 | Oreal | COMPOUNDS DERIVED FROM PROTEIN OR NON-PROTEIN IRIDOIDS, COMPOSITION COMPRISING THEM, USE AS COLORING KERATIN FIBERS AND DEVICES |
CN105073757A (en) * | 2013-03-29 | 2015-11-18 | 莱雅公司 | Dyeing method using hair dyeing precursors obtained from iridoids, compositions comprising the same, precursors and devices |
CN105073723A (en) * | 2013-03-29 | 2015-11-18 | 莱雅公司 | Compounds derived from protected or unprotected iridoids, compositions comprising it, use as dyes for keratin fibers and devices |
CN105101947A (en) * | 2013-03-29 | 2015-11-25 | 莱雅公司 | Dyeing method using iridoid compound and device used therefor |
US11944700B2 (en) | 2015-06-19 | 2024-04-02 | inkbox ink Inc. | Body ink compositions and applicators |
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FR2957794A1 (en) | 2011-09-30 |
FR2957794B1 (en) | 2012-06-15 |
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