WO2011001219A1 - Procédé cosmétique pour revêtir une matière kératinique - Google Patents
Procédé cosmétique pour revêtir une matière kératinique Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2011001219A1 WO2011001219A1 PCT/IB2009/052903 IB2009052903W WO2011001219A1 WO 2011001219 A1 WO2011001219 A1 WO 2011001219A1 IB 2009052903 W IB2009052903 W IB 2009052903W WO 2011001219 A1 WO2011001219 A1 WO 2011001219A1
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- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- reactive
- compound
- organopolysiloxane
- mol
- catalyst
- Prior art date
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- VBMVTYDPPZVILR-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(2+);oxygen(2-) Chemical class [O-2].[Fe+2] VBMVTYDPPZVILR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SZVJSHCCFOBDDC-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(II,III) oxide Inorganic materials O=[Fe]O[Fe]O[Fe]=O SZVJSHCCFOBDDC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VKPSKYDESGTTFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N isododecane Natural products CC(C)(C)CC(C)CC(C)(C)C VKPSKYDESGTTFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940078546 isoeicosane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- PXZQEOJJUGGUIB-UHFFFAOYSA-N isoindolin-1-one Chemical compound C1=CC=C2C(=O)NCC2=C1 PXZQEOJJUGGUIB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GWVMLCQWXVFZCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N isoindoline Chemical compound C1=CC=C2CNCC2=C1 GWVMLCQWXVFZCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KUVMKLCGXIYSNH-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopentadecane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C KUVMKLCGXIYSNH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000001449 isopropyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopropyl palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000012182 japan wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002576 ketones Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000004898 kneading Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000020778 linoleic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 150000002632 lipids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000002634 lipophilic molecules Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000011344 liquid material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940057995 liquid paraffin Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 239000010469 macadamia oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011572 manganese Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 239000004200 microcrystalline wax Substances 0.000 description 1
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- HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethyltrisiloxane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960002446 octanoic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940060184 oil ingredients Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229960002969 oleic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940055577 oleyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N oleyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCCCO XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000008390 olive oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000001053 orange pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011146 organic particle Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012168 ouricury wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001590 oxidative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- BMMGVYCKOGBVEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxo(oxoceriooxy)cerium Chemical compound [Ce]=O.O=[Ce]=O BMMGVYCKOGBVEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 description 1
- RVTZCBVAJQQJTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxygen(2-);zirconium(4+) Chemical compound [O-2].[O-2].[Zr+4] RVTZCBVAJQQJTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002540 palm oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011837 pasties Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentaerythritol Chemical class OCC(CO)(CO)CO WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DGBWPZSGHAXYGK-UHFFFAOYSA-N perinone Chemical compound C12=NC3=CC=CC=C3N2C(=O)C2=CC=C3C4=C2C1=CC=C4C(=O)N1C2=CC=CC=C2N=C13 DGBWPZSGHAXYGK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000002688 persistence Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000002080 perylenyl group Chemical group C1(=CC=C2C=CC=C3C4=CC=CC5=CC=CC(C1=C23)=C45)* 0.000 description 1
- CSHWQDPOILHKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N peryrene Natural products C1=CC(C2=CC=CC=3C2=C2C=CC=3)=C3C2=CC=CC3=C1 CSHWQDPOILHKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019271 petrolatum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003208 petroleum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003209 petroleum derivative Substances 0.000 description 1
- ISWSIDIOOBJBQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N phenol group Chemical group C1(=CC=CC=C1)O ISWSIDIOOBJBQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZUOUZKKEUPVFJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N phenylbenzene Natural products C1=CC=CC=C1C1=CC=CC=C1 ZUOUZKKEUPVFJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZYIBVBKZZZDFOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N phloxine O Chemical compound O1C(=O)C(C(=C(Cl)C(Cl)=C2Cl)Cl)=C2C21C1=CC(Br)=C(O)C(Br)=C1OC1=C(Br)C(O)=C(Br)C=C21 ZYIBVBKZZZDFOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004437 phosphorous atom Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000010773 plant oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- CLSUSRZJUQMOHH-UHFFFAOYSA-L platinum dichloride Chemical compound Cl[Pt]Cl CLSUSRZJUQMOHH-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229920000767 polyaniline Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001083 polybutene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000573 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920006254 polymer film Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000010491 poppyseed oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019260 propionic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000015136 pumpkin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- FYNROBRQIVCIQF-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyrrolo[3,2-b]pyrrole-5,6-dione Chemical compound C1=CN=C2C(=O)C(=O)N=C21 FYNROBRQIVCIQF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- IUVKMZGDUIUOCP-BTNSXGMBSA-N quinbolone Chemical compound O([C@H]1CC[C@H]2[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@]4(C=CC(=O)C=C4CC3)C)CC[C@@]21C)C1=CCCC1 IUVKMZGDUIUOCP-BTNSXGMBSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000010493 quinoa oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- IZMJMCDDWKSTTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N quinoline yellow Chemical class C1=CC=CC2=NC(C3C(C4=CC=CC=C4C3=O)=O)=CC=C21 IZMJMCDDWKSTTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001054 red pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002441 reversible effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000009566 rice Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000010666 rose oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000005713 safflower oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003813 safflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000012216 screening Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010008 shearing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000741 silica gel Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910002027 silica gel Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000003549 soybean oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910052950 sphalerite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940031439 squalene Drugs 0.000 description 1
- TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalene Natural products CC(=CCCC(=CCCC(=CCCC=C(/C)CCC=C(/C)CC=C(C)C)C)C)C TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000003068 static effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000001424 substituent group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000011593 sulfur Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000725 suspension Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC[14C](O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000002560 therapeutic procedure Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- JOUDBUYBGJYFFP-FOCLMDBBSA-N thioindigo Chemical compound S\1C2=CC=CC=C2C(=O)C/1=C1/C(=O)C2=CC=CC=C2S1 JOUDBUYBGJYFFP-FOCLMDBBSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003573 thiols Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000004408 titanium dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GQUJEMVIKWQAEH-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium(III) oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]O[Ti]=O GQUJEMVIKWQAEH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000012546 transfer Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000009466 transformation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001052 transient effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000005691 triesters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-(methyl-octyl-trimethylsilyloxysilyl)oxysilane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)O[Si](C)(C)C SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AAAQKTZKLRYKHR-UHFFFAOYSA-N triphenylmethane Chemical compound C1=CC=CC=C1C(C=1C=CC=CC=1)C1=CC=CC=C1 AAAQKTZKLRYKHR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UJMBCXLDXJUMFB-UHFFFAOYSA-K trisodium;5-oxo-1-(4-sulfonatophenyl)-4-[(4-sulfonatophenyl)diazenyl]-4h-pyrazole-3-carboxylate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)C1=NN(C=2C=CC(=CC=2)S([O-])(=O)=O)C(=O)C1N=NC1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 UJMBCXLDXJUMFB-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 235000013799 ultramarine blue Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003039 volatile agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010497 wheat germ oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001052 yellow pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052984 zinc sulfide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910001928 zirconium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
- A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, in particular a non-therapeutic process for making up or caring for keratin materials, which consists in forming on said keratin materials a polymer film made from at least two silicone-based compounds which are capable of reacting together, by hydrosilylation.
- Lipstick and foundation compositions are commonly used to give the lips or the skin, and especially the face, an aesthetic colour.
- These makeup products generally contain fatty phases such as waxes and oils, pigments and/or fillers and optionally additives, for instance cosmetic or dermato logical active agents.
- the users expect several and distinct properties regarding the coating formed by such compositions on the skin. These properties are in particular makeup properties, but also good persistence of the applied film, no transfer, and above-all comfort for the user. Thus, the coating has to be supple and not tacky.
- the aim of the present invention is to provide a new route for formulating cosmetic compositions, especially makeup compositions, which makes it possible to obtain in situ film forming, deposited on keratin materials, which provide an improved comfortable and supple deposit on the skin, the lips, the eyelashes or the nails.
- the inventors have discovered that it is possible to achieve such a property by using a system comprising silicone compounds that polymerize in situ so as to form, on a keratin material, a coating which advantageously has good adhesion property and is not tacky.
- one subject of the instant invention is a cosmetic method for making up and/or non-therapeutically caring for keratin material comprising at least the application on said keratin material of a mixture comprising at least:
- organopolysiloxane compounds B and C being capable of interacting together by a hydrosilylation reaction in presence of said catalyst
- said MQ resin A being capable of interacting with said compound B or with said compound C by a hydrosilylation reaction in presence of said catalyst.
- the keratin material may be the skin, the lips, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes and more particularly is the skin and the eyelashes.
- each compound is capable to interact in presence of said catalyst and generally at room temperature with at least one of the others compounds.
- the hydrosilylation reaction between the respective reactive functional groups of MQ resin(s) A and organopolysiloxanes B and C has for result to promote the transformation of the corresponding mixture in a coating on said keratin material.
- the reactive organopolysiloxanes B and C are capable of interacting together by a hydrosilylation reaction in presence of a catalyst.
- the reactive MQ resin A is capable of interacting by hydrosilylation with said reactive organopolysiloxane compound(s) B.
- the reactive MQ resin A is capable of interacting by hydrosilylation with said reactive organopolysiloxane compound(s) C.
- the process according to the invention may involve a MQ resin A with reactive alkylene groups, in mixture with at least a compound B having at least three reactive Si-H groups per molecule and at least a compound C having reactive alkylene groups and a molecular weight higher than 10 000 g/mol.
- reactive alkylene group is used to designate a reactive alkylene group directly bonded to a silicon atom.
- the mixture contains at least: - one reactive functional MQ resin A having at least three (a) reactive functional groups per molecule,
- the groups (a) and (b) and (c) being either a reactive alkylene group directly bonded to a silicon atom (SiAIk) or a reactive Si-bonded hydrogen group (SiH), provided that when (b) is SiAIk, (c) is SiH, and (a) is SiAIk or SiH, and when (b) is SiH, (c) is SiAIk, and (a) is SiAIk or SiH.
- compounds A, B, and C and the catalyst are in such quantity that RH/ AIk > 1.5 wherein RH/ AIk is the ratio of the number of reactive Si-bonded hydrogen group with respect to the number of reactive alkylene group.
- the method according to the invention is particularly advantageous for providing a a make-up and/or a care for keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, the eyelashes, the hair, the eyebrows or the nails.
- the corresponding cosmetic product may be a make-up composition like a loose or compacted powder, a foundation, a makeup rouge, an eyeshadow, a concealer product, a blusher, a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip gloss, a lip pencil, an eye pencil, a mascara, an eyeliner, a body makeup product, a skin colouring product, a hair colouring product.
- the corresponding cosmetic product may be also a care product for the eyelashes or the lips, or a care product for bodily and facial skin, especially a make-up removing compound, an antisun product or a care product for the hair like shampoo, hair conditioner or hair styling.
- the corresponding cosmetic product is dedicated to the make-up of the skin and the eyes.
- Another subject of the instant invention is a cosmetic method for making up and/or non-therapeutically caring for keratin material comprising at least the application on said keratin material of at least:
- the first and second compositions containing at least one reactive functional MQ resin A, one reactive organopolysiloxane compound B having at least three reactive functional groups per molecule, one reactive organopolysiloxane compound C different from compound B, having at least two reactive functional groups per molecule and a molecular weight higher than 10 000 g/mole, and one catalyst for a hydrosilylation reaction, said reactive organopolysiloxane compounds B and C being capable of interacting together by a hydrosilylation reaction in presence of said catalyst,
- MQ resin(s) A being capable of interacting with said compound(s) B or with said compound(s) C by a hydrosilylation reaction in presence of said catalyst
- the reactive compounds capable of interacting by a hydrosilylation reaction with each other(s) and the catalyst are not present together in the same composition, the applications of (a) and (b) possibly being simultaneous and/or sequential in any order with the proviso that it is beneficial to the hydrosilylation of said MQ resin A and said organopolysiloxane compounds.
- kits for coating keratin materials comprising at least:
- kit being dedicated to be a make-up composition for the skin, the eyes lashes, the lips, the nails or the hair or a care or cleaning cosmetic product for body and/or the hair.
- the make-up composition may be a loose or compacted powder, a foundation, a makeup rouge, an eyeshadow, a concealer product, a blusher, a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip gloss, a lip pencil, an eye pencil, a mascara, an eyeliner, a body makeup product, a hair colouring product.
- the care cosmetic product may be a care or cleaning product for the eyelashes or the lips, or a care or cleaning product for bodily and facial skin.
- cosmetic care products may include any product intended to moisturize the skin; to cleanse, to nourish, and/or to maintain the skin and/or the hair; to deodorize the skin; to prepare the skin for exposure to the sun, especially an antisun product; to reinforce the elasticity of the skin; and/or to enhance the softness of the skin, or a care product for the hair like shampoo, a hair conditioner or a hair styling.
- said kit is a make-up kit, more particularly dedicated to making-up the skin and the eyes and more particularly a foundation or a mascara.
- cosmetic treatment means any treatment by means of a cosmetic product as defined above herein below.
- cosmetic product means any substance or preparation intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (e.g., epidermis, body hair and hair system, lashes, nails, lips,) for the exclusive or main purpose of cleansing them, or of giving them a fragrant smell, of modifying their appearance, and/or of correcting body odors, and/or of protecting them, and/or of maintaining them in good condition (As set forth in cosmetic directive 76/768/EEC amended).
- the cosmetic process for coating keratin materials comprises the application to the said keratin materials of one coat at least based on the reactional product of a mixture of specific compounds which are capable of interacting together via hydrosilylation.
- This reaction may be represented schematically, in a simplified manner, as follows:
- the so-obtained coating on the keratin materials is an adherent film with good staying power which is supple and not tacky.
- the reactive compounds capable to interact by hydrosilylation and the catalyst are mixed together extemporaneously and the mixture is then applied to the keratin materials.
- the cosmetic process for coating keratin materials described above preferably comprises the following steps:
- the reactive compounds capable to interact by hydrosilylation and the catalyst being contained in either one of said first and second compositions so that no hydrosilylation reaction occurs prior to said mixing of the first and second compositions, and then
- the reactive compounds capable to interact by hydrosilylation and as defined hereafter and the catalyst are applied via at least two different compositions, each comprising at least one reactive compound and/or at least a catalyst.
- the reactive compounds capable to interact by hydrosilylation and the catalyst are applied via at least two different cosmetic compositions, one comprising at least one reactive compound and at least a catalyst, and the other one comprising at least the other reactive compound and optionally the compound capable to interact with it by hydrosilylation.
- first and second cosmetic compositions do not in any way determine the order of application of said compositions on the keratinous materials. Several coats of each of the first and second cosmetic compositions may also be applied alternately to the keratin materials.
- At least a catalyst is applied on the keratin materials to activate the reaction between the reactive compound(s) capable to react each with other via hydrosilylation.
- the catalyst may be present in one of the first or second cosmetic composition applied on the keratin materials, or in an additional composition, and the order of application of the compositions does not matter.
- the first and second cosmetic compositions are as described above.
- the reactive functional MQ resins A described in the present invention may also be designated "MQ" resins A.
- silicone resins are known under the name "MDTQ", the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units it comprises, each of the letters M, D, T and Q characterizing a type of unit.
- the letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula the silicon atom being bonded to only one oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
- the letter D means a difunctional unit (R) 2 SiO 2 Z 2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.
- T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (R)Si ⁇ 3/2 .
- the letter Q means a tetrafunctional unit Si ⁇ 4/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.
- MQ resins are macro molecular polymers comprised primarily of
- R is a functional or nonfunctional, substituted or unsubstituted monovalent radical.
- R may be a hydrogen atom, a hydrocarbon-based radical, especially alkyl or alkylene group containing from 1 to
- the hydrocarbon group of R can be exemplified by groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, hexyl, octyl, decyl, vinyl, allyl, hexenyl and cyclohexyl.
- the MQ resin structure contains as R, methyl groups and at least three alkylene groups.
- the alkylene groups are preferably chosen among vinyl, allyl and hexenyl. More preferably, the alkylene groups are vinyl groups.
- Such resins may also include a limited number of (R) 2 Si0 2 / 2 and (R)Si ⁇ 3/ 2 units, respectively referred to as D and T units.
- the resin can also contain triorganosiloxy units (T units), for example
- MQ resin means that, on average, no more than about 20 mol percent of the resin molecules are comprised of D and T units. According to a specific variant, the MQ resin A is free of D and T units.
- the MQ resin A has a ratio M/Q ranging from 0.01 to 1.
- the MQ silicone resin may have a general formula (I)
- - n ranges from 1.1 to 1.6
- each R 1 is monovalent and independently selected from hydrogen, a Ci to C 10 alkyl group like for example methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, hexyl, octyl, decyl, or cyclohexyl; a C 2 to Cio alkylene group like for example vinyl, allyl and hexenyl; a phenyl group, with the proviso that at least three or more R 1 are hydrogen or an alkylene group with both type of groups being not simultaneously present in said MQ resin A.
- each R 2 is hydrogen or a monovalent Ci to C 4 alkyl group, more preferably an hydrogen atom.
- the MQ resin A of formula (I) contains as R 1 methyl group and at least three hydrogen atoms and as R 2 hydrogen atoms.
- the MQ resin A of formula (I) contains as R 1 methyl group and at least three alkylene groups and in particularly three vinyl groups and as R 2 hydrogen atoms.
- MQ resins A convenient for the invention are chosen from MQ resins having sufficient reactive either Si-H bond or preferably alkylene groups and more preferably vinyl groups for formation of the polymer network.
- such a MQ resin A comprises from 1% to 10% by weight of reactive alkylene groups and more preferably vinyl groups.
- said MQ resin A may advantageously have reactive C 2 -C 10 alkylene groups and more particularly vinyl groups content ranging from 0.1 to 10 mo 1/1000 g and in particular from about 0.5 to 3 mol/1000 g.
- MQ resins A convenient for the invention, mention may be more particularly made of functional MQ resins having a number average molecular weight (Mn) ranging from 1 500 to 10 000, in particular ranging from 3 000 to 10 000 and more particularly from 3 000 to 5 000.
- Mn number average molecular weight
- MQ resins having reactive Si-H groups are in particularly disclosed in US 5,760,116 and MQ resins having reactive alkylene groups are in particularly disclosed in US 3,436,366, US 4,041,010, US 4,587,137, EP 535 687, EP 1 057 476 and EP 1 800 864.
- the amount in resin(s) MQ A is adjusted in regards of the amount in reactive organopolysiloxane(s) for allowing its total hydrosilylation. This adjustment is clearly from the knowledge of the man skilled in the art.
- MQ resin(s) A may be used in an amount ranging from 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly from 40 to 80% by weight and more prefereably from 50% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the reactive compounds present in the mixture and capable of interacting together by a hydrosilylation reaction.
- organopolysiloxane compound means a compound comprising at least two organosiloxane units, for example at least 5 organosiloxane units, notably at least 10 organosiloxane units.
- one reactive organopolysiloxane compound B is chosen for its capability to react via a hydrosilylation reaction with the organopolysiloxane compound C considered together.
- the reactive organopolysiloxanes considered according to the invention react via a hydrosilylation reaction at room temperature (20 ⁇ 5°C) and atmospheric pressure in the presence of a catalyst.
- the reactive functional MQ resin A considered according to the invention also reacts with either reactive compound B or reactive compound C via said hydrosilylation reaction.
- reactive organopolysiloxane B and/or C may be chosen from organopolysiloxane compounds comprising reactive alkylene groups, such as C2-C10 alkylene groups.
- it may be a organopolysiloxane comprising a silicone main chain whose reactive alkylene groups are pendent on the main chain (side group) or located at the ends of the main chain of the compound (terminal group).
- organopolysiloxanes with reactive alkylene groups such as C2-C10 alkylene groups.
- organopolysiloxanes with reactive alkylene groups are chosen from organopolysiloxanes comprising at least two alkylene groups, such as C2-C10 alkylene groups, for example two or more vinyl or allylic groups, each bonded to a silicon atom.
- such a compound B and/or C is chosen from organopolysiloxanes comprising siloxane units of formula:
- R represents a linear or cyclic monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4, and better still from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, in particular a methyl radical, or a phenyl group, with R being preferably a methyl radical,
- n 1 or 2
- R' represents:
- R' is an alkylene group, preferably a vinyl group.
- R represents a methyl radical and R is a vinyl group.
- the organopolysiloxane also comprises units of formula: r (III)
- R is a group as defined above, and n is equal to 2 or 3.
- the polysiloxanes B having reactive alkylene groups comprise from
- the polysiloxanes B having reactive alkylene groups have from
- the polysiloxanes C having reactive alkylene groups comprise from
- the polysiloxanes C having reactive alkylene groups have from
- the polysiloxanes having reactive alkylene groups preferably have viscosities on the order of about 3 mm 2 /s to about
- the viscosity may be evaluated according to the method based on ASTM D 1084 or on ASTM D 445 as detailed here-after.
- the viscosity in centipoises may be measured at 25 +/- 0.2 0 C using a rotational viscometer such as a Brookfield Synchro -lectric viscometer or a Wells-Brookf ⁇ eld Cone/Plate viscometer.
- This method is based on ASTM D 1084 Method B(for cup/spindle) and ASTM D 4287 (for cone/plate).
- the viscosity of liquids in centiStockes may be determined at 25 +/- 0.2 0 C by measuring the time required for a fixed volume of samples to pass through a calibrated glass capillary using "gravity- flow". The method is based on ASTM D-445, IP 71 and the results are reported in Stokes. A set of one of the following types viscosimeter are appropriate, Cannon Fenski., Ostwald, and Ubbelohde.
- the organopolysiloxanes having reactive alkylene groups may have a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 150 to 1 000 000, preferably from 200 to 800 000 and more preferably from 200 to 250 000.
- Mw weight-average molecular mass
- organopolysiloxane compounds C having at least two vinyl groups and a molecular weight higher than 10 000 g/mol mention may be more particularly made of :
- C may comprise at least two free Si-H groups (hydrogenosilane groups).
- - R represents a linear or cyclic monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 2, in particular a methyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl group.
- R is a hydrocarbon-based group, and more preferably is a methyl group.
- organopolysiloxane compounds containing alkylhydrogenosiloxane units may also comprise units of formula:
- n 2 or 3 and R as defined above.
- radicals R represent a methyl group in formula (IV) and (V) above.
- these organopolysiloxanes B and/or C comprise terminal groups of formula (CHs) 3 SiOiZ 2 .
- the organopolysiloxanes B and/or C comprise at least two alkylhydrogenosiloxane units of formula -(H 3 C)(H)SiO- and -(H 3 C) 2 SiO- units.
- Polysiloxanes having silicon bonded hydrogen can also form cyclics, for example tetramethylcyclotetrasiloxane (or 2,4,6, 8-tetramethylcyclotetrasiloxane, having CAS Number 2370-88-9), or pentamethylcyclopentasiloxane (or 2,4,6,8, 10-pentamethylcyclopentasiloxane, having CAS number 6166-86-5).
- cyclics for example tetramethylcyclotetrasiloxane (or 2,4,6, 8-tetramethylcyclotetrasiloxane, having CAS Number 2370-88-9), or pentamethylcyclopentasiloxane (or 2,4,6,8, 10-pentamethylcyclopentasiloxane, having CAS number 6166-86-5).
- the organopolysiloxane B compounds having silicon bonded hydrogen atoms comprise from 0.1% to 60% by weight of Si-H groups.
- the organopolysiloxanes B having silicon bonded hydrogen atoms have from 0.0001 mol/g to 0.02 mol/g, preferably from 0.001 to 0.02 mol/g and more particularly from 0.002 to 0.02 mol/g of reactive Si-H groups based on the total weight of the polymer.
- the organopolysiloxane C compounds having silicon bonded hydrogen atoms comprise from 0, 1 % to 1 % by weight of Si-H groups.
- the organopolysiloxanes C having silicon bonded hydrogen atoms have from 0.00001 mol/g to 0.001 mol/g, preferably from 0.00005 to 0.0005 mol/g of reactive Si-H groups based on the total weight of the polymer.
- the polysiloxanes having silicon bonded hydrogen atoms preferably have viscosities on the order of from about 1 mm 2 /s to about 1000 mm 2 /s.
- the polysiloxanes having silicon bonded hydrogen atoms may have a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 200 to 1 000 000, preferably 300 to 800 000 and more preferably from 500 to 250 000.
- Mw weight-average molecular mass
- organopolysiloxane compounds containing hydrogenosilane groups are described, for example, in document EP 0 465 744.
- dimethyl methylhydrogen polysiloxane having viscosity of 5 cst and Si-H group content of 0.8 mo 1/100g
- methyl hydrogenpolysiloxane having a viscosity of 30 cst and a Si-H group content of 1.5 mol/lOOg.
- organopolysiloxane compound B having at least three Si-H groups mention may be more particularly made of:
- dimethyl methylhydrogen polysiloxane having viscosity of 5 cst and Si-H group content of 0.8 mo 1/ 100g
- methyl hydrogenpolysiloxane having a viscosity of 30 cst and a Si-H group content of 1.5 mo 1/100g.
- the mixture considered for the hydrosilylation includes at least one reactive organopolysiloxane compound C having a molecular weight higher than 10 OOOg/mol.
- the reactive organopolysiloxane compound C having a molecular weight higher than 10 OOOg/mol has preferably a molecular weight higher than 20 000 g/mol, more preferably higher than 30 000g/mol.
- such organopolysiloxane(s) C is in an amount preferably greater than or equal to 15%, notably from 15% to 60% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 20%, notably from 20% to 50% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 25%, notably from 25 to 40% by weight of the dry solid content of the mixture applied on keratin material.
- the MQ resin A is capable of interacting by hydrosilylation reaction with one of the organopolysiloxanes B or C.
- the mixture considered for the hydrosilylation may include, further to the organopolysiloxanes B and C, another organopolysiloxane as disclosed previously and having a molecular weight lower than 10 000g/mol.
- the process according to the invention is performed in a way wherein the compounds are applied via at least a first and a second cosmetic compositions to be mixed either extemporaneously prior to application on the keratinous materials or upon application on said keratinous materials, the compounds being contained in either one of said first and second cosmetic compositions so that no hydrosilylation reaction occurs prior to said mixing of the first and second cosmetic compositions.
- the compounds with alkylene groups and more particularly vinyl groups and the compounds with silicon bonded hydrogen are applied in such a way that the hydrosilylation reaction occurs at least in part on the keratinous material to be treated and/or made up.
- the compound with reactive alkylene groups is at least the compound B.
- the process according to the invention may involve a MQ resin A with reactive alkylene groups, in particular vinyl groups in mixture with at least two compounds B having reactive alkylene groups, in particular vinyl groups, and at least a compound C having Si-H bonds and having a molecular weight higher than 10 000g/mol.
- the compound with reactive alkylene groups is at least the compound C.
- the process according to the invention may involve a MQ resin A with reactive alkylene groups, in particular vinyl groups, in mixture with at least a compound B having at least three reactive Si-H bonds and at least a compound C having reactive alkylene groups, in particular vinyl groups, and a molecular weight higher than 10 OOOg/mol.
- the process according to the invention may involve a MQ resin A with reactive vinyl groups, in mixture with at least a compound B having at least three reactive Si-H bonds and at least a compound C having reactive vinyl groups and having a molecular weight higher than 10 OOOg/mol.
- the mixture contains at least
- one reactive organopolysiloxane compound C which is a organopolysiloxane having two (c) groups and a molecular weight higher than 10 000 g/mol
- the groups (a) and (b) and (c) being either a reactive alkylene group directly bonded to a silicon atom (herein after called "SiAIk” group) or a reactive Si-bonded hydrogen group (hereinafter called "SiH” group), provided that when (b) is SiAIk, (c) is SiH, and (a) is SiAIk or SiH, and when (b) is SiH, (c) is SiAIk, and (a) is SiAIk or SiH.
- compounds A, B, and C and the catalyst are in such quantity that: RH/ AIk > 1.5 wherein the term "RH/ AIk" corresponds to the ratio of the number of SiH moles with respect to the number of Si- Alkylene moles in the mixture considered for the hydrosilylation.
- RHAlk>2 preferably RHAlk>2.5, more preferably RHAlk>3.
- the hydrosilylation reaction is advantageously performed in the presence of a catalyst that may be present in one of the compositions comprising the compounds with vinyl groups and/or the compounds with silicon bonded hydrogen or in a separate composition, the catalyst preferably being platinum-based or rhodium-based.
- Examples that may be mentioned include platinum- or rhodium-based catalysts deposited on a support of silica gel or charcoal (coal) powder, platinum chloride, platinum salts and chloroplatinic acids.
- Chloroplatinic acids in hexahydrate or anhydrous form which are readily dispersible in organosilicone media, are preferably used.
- platinum complexes in particular such as those based on chloroplatinic acid hexahydrate and on divinyltetramethyldisiloxane.
- the catalyst may be present in the composition(s) in a content ranging from
- the compounds with vinyl groups, the compounds with silicon bonded hydrogen, and the catalyst of the invention cure at room temperature (20 ⁇ 5°C) within 10 minutes or, more preferably, within five minutes or less.
- the ratio of silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms of the polysiloxanes to all groups reactive therewith in the cosmetic composition(s) e.g., the unsaturated groups
- the curing time is dependent on various factors including the type and proportion of other component materials present in the formulation.
- Polymerization inhibitors and more particularly catalyst inhibitors, may also be introduced into the cosmetic compositions of the invention, in order to increase the stability of the composition over time or to retard the polymerization.
- Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include cyclic polymethylvinylsiloxanes, in particular tetravinyl tetramethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, acetylenic alcohols, preferably volatile, such as methylisobutynol.
- ionic salts in one and/or the other of the compositions may have an influence on the rate of polymerization of the compounds.
- the ratio between the compounds with reactive alkylene groups and the compounds with reactive silicon bonded hydrogen may be varied so as to modify the rate of reaction and thus the rate of formation of the film or so as to adapt the properties of the formed film according to the desired use.
- composition may be packaged separately in the same packaging article.
- Each composition may also be packaged in the same packaging article, the mixing of the at least two compositions being performed at the end(s) of the packaging article during the delivery of each composition.
- each of the first, second and optionally third compositions may be packaged in a different packaging article.
- the reactive compounds capable to interact by hydrosilylation and the catalyst can either be separated into a plurality of containers to inhibit curing prior to spreading or can be packaged into a unique container wherein the hydrosilylation catalyst is temporarily inhibited, wherein the temporary inhibition is obtained by encapsulating the hydrosilylation catalyst or by adding transient inhibitors.
- an external factor triggers the cure (i.e. by the hydrosilylation reaction) by releasing the catalyst.
- factors can be, but are not limited to elevated temperature (e.g. body or skin temperature, hair dryer), shearing effect or evaporation of certain formulation additives (e.g. liquid fatty or aqueous phase).
- the formulation of the invention can be applied by spreading the formulation onto the desired site, wherein said spreading can cause mixing the formulation or the mixing of the formulation is achieved prior spreading the formulation.
- the activation of the catalyst can occur prior to spread the formulation, or can be caused by spreading the formulation, or can be caused by mixing the formulation, or can occur after spreading the formulation.
- the formulation cures in situ on the desired site to form a film.
- the compounds, and the catalyst, and any other optional components are delivered and spread onto the desired site in a manner which causes mixing of the component materials.
- the formulation cures after being applied and results in a film suitable for cosmetic applications.
- the delivery herein is performed by conventional techniques known in the art.
- the delivery systems include, but not limited to can, tube, sachet, syringe, stick, pencil, brush, sponge, wet stamp and roll-on as known in the art.
- These delivery devices can comprise one or more than one chamber according to the need to separate the components of the formulation.
- the formulation components are delivered and spread to the desired site.
- Mixing of the formulation components can occur either in the delivery packaging, during the delivery or during the spreading onto the desired site.
- a mixing chamber can be built into the delivery packaging such that as the formulation components are drawn or forced out of their separate containers they are mixed prior to being delivered.
- the formulation components are separated by fragile walls which can easily be broken to allow the formulation components for getting in contact together.
- the mixing then occurs by hand kneading or with a mixing tool as known in the art.
- formulation components are forced into a mixing device such as a static mixer and then delivered to the site.
- formulation components can be delivered sequentially and then be mixed on the desired site.
- a subject of the invention is also the use of a kit as described above for obtaining a film deposited on keratin materials, which shows improved staying power and/or comfort properties.
- the composition comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a non-toxic medium that may be applied to human keratin materials and that has a pleasant appearance, odour and feel.
- composition(s) according to the invention can comprise a liquid fatty or aqueous phase to adjust the inviscosity and the comfort of the resulting film after curing.
- liquid fatty or aqueous phase which may be employed includes volatile and non volatile fluids such as silicone volatiles, silicone fluids, hydrocarbons, alcohols, ketones, esters and any other liquid material.
- volatile and non volatile fluids such as silicone volatiles, silicone fluids, hydrocarbons, alcohols, ketones, esters and any other liquid material.
- It may consist essentially of water, it may also comprise a mixture of water and/or of water- miscible solvent (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C), for instance lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
- water- miscible solvent miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C
- lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol
- glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
- the aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in a content ranging from 5% to 95% by weight, preferably from 10% to 85% by weight and better still from 20% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the water may be present in a content ranging from 5% to 95% by weight, preferably from 10% to 85% by weight and better still from 20% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- liquid fatty phase means a fatty phase that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), composed of one or more mutually compatible non-aqueous fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature, also known as organic solvents or oils.
- the oil may be chosen from volatile oils and/or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
- the oil may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 90% by weight and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- non- volatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that especially has a vapor pressure of less than 10 "3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
- oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils or fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
- hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus atoms.
- the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched Cs-Ci 6 alkanes, for instance Cs-Ci 6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffms), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci 6 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
- Cs-Ci 6 alkanes for instance Cs-Ci 6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffms), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names I
- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils for instance petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell SoIt by the company Shell, may also be used.
- the volatile solvent is preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
- Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 x lO "6 m 2 /s) and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
- volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltri- siloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
- R represents an alkyl group containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and of which one or more hydrogen atoms may be substituted with one or more fluorine or chlorine atoms.
- oils of general formula (I) that may be mentioned are:
- oils of formula (I) for which R is, respectively, a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is, respectively, a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.
- Volatile fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane may also be used.
- the compositions used in the process according to the invention each have a volatile oil content of less than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 20% and better still less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of each first and second composition. More preferably, the composition(s) are free of volatile oil.
- At least one of the first and second compositions used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile oil, chosen in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils and/or fluoro oils.
- Non- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
- oils of plant origin such as triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from C 4 to C 24 , these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold
- apolar hydrocarbon-based oils for instance squalene, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly and naphthalene oil, hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, squalane, decene/butene copolymers and polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L- 14, and polydecenes such as Puresyn 10, and mixtures thereof; - synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula RiCOOR 2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that Ri + R 2 > 10, for instance Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, Ci 2 to C 15 alkyl benzoates, he
- - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecano 1;
- the non- volatile silicone oils may be:
- polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms,
- phenylsilicones for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,
- the liquid fatty phase comprises an ester oil.
- This ester oil may be chosen from the esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols.
- the said ester corresponds to formula (VI) below:
- Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably of 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted,
- R 2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and better still of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted.
- Ri and/or R 2 can bear one or more substituents chosen, for example, from groups comprising one or more hetero atoms chosen from O, N and S, such as amino, amine, alkoxy and hydroxyl.
- the total number of carbon atoms of Ri + R 2 is > 9.
- Ri may represent the residue of a linear or, preferably, branched fatty acid, preferably a higher fatty acid, containing from 1 to 40 and even better from 7 to 19 carbon atoms
- R 2 may represent a linear or, preferably, branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40, preferably from 3 to 30 and even better from 3 to 20 carbon atoms.
- Examples of groups Ri are those derived from fatty acids chosen from the group consisting of acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, undecanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleostearic acid, arachidonic acid and erucic acid, and mixtures thereof.
- esters examples include purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, and heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example of fatty alcohols.
- purcellin oil cetostearyl octanoate
- isononyl isononanoate isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate
- 2-octyldodecyl stearate 2-octyldodecyl erucate
- isostearyl isostearate examples include heptanoates, oc
- the esters are chosen from the compounds of formula (IV) above, in which Ri represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably of 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and R 2 represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and even better of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds.
- Ri represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably of 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds
- R 2 represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and even better of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more e
- Ri is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 4 to 14 carbon atoms and preferably of 8 to 10 carbon atoms
- R 2 is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 5 to 15 carbon atoms and preferably of 9 to 11 carbon atoms.
- Ri-CO- and R 2 have the same number of carbon atoms and are derived from the same radical, preferably an unsubstituted branched alkyl, for example isononyl, i.e. the ester oil molecule is advantageously symmetrical.
- the ester oil will preferably be chosen from the following compounds:
- the non- volatile oil is chosen from the ester oils of formula (VI) above and phenyl silicones, and mixtures thereof.
- the non- volatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 1% to 60% by weight, better still from 5% to 50% by weight and even better still from 14% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition or relative to the total weight of the composition when all compounds A and
- compositions according to the invention may also include at least one fatty substance that is solid at room temperature, chosen especially from waxes and mixtures thereof.
- fatty substances may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
- At least one of the first and second compositions according to the invention may comprise a wax or a mixture of waxes.
- the wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is in general a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 0 C that may be up to 120 0 C.
- Hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, may especially be used.
- waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.
- waxes that may especially be mentioned are hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference
- Iso-Jojoba-50 hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S by the company Heterene, bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest 2T-4B by the company Heterene.
- the nature and amount of the wax(es) depend on the desired mechanical properties and textures. As a guide, the waxes may represent from 0.1% to 70% by weight, better still from 1% to 40% and even better still from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions according to the invention may also advantageously comprise at least one dyestuff.
- It may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of each first and second composition or relative to the total weight of their mixture.
- the pigments that are useful in the present invention may be in the form of powder or of pigmentary paste.
- dyes should be understood as meaning compounds, generally organic, which are soluble in at least one oil or in an aqueous-alcoholic phase.
- pigments should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting film.
- nacres or nacreous pigments should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.
- the pigment may be an organic pigment.
- organic pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopaedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
- the organic pigment may especially be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanin, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
- the organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanin blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17
- These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed especially of particles comprising an inorganic nucleus at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder to fix the organic pigments to the nucleus.
- the pigment may also be a lake.
- the term "lake” means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
- the inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
- D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
- D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570
- the pigment may also be a pigment with special effects.
- pigments with special effects means pigments that generally create a non-uniform coloured appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a certain lightness) that changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, observation angles, etc.). They thus contrast with white or coloured pigments that afford a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
- the pigment may be a mineral pigment.
- mineral pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments.
- the following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta 2 Os, Ti 3 O 5 ,
- the pigment may also be a nacreous pigment such as white nacreous pigments, for example mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium and with iron oxides, mica coated with titanium and especially with ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and with an organic pigment as defined above, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
- nacreous pigments such as white nacreous pigments, for example mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium and with iron oxides, mica coated with titanium and especially with ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and with an organic pigment as defined above, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
- examples that may be mentioned include the Cellini pigments sold by Engelhard (Mica-TiO 2 -lake), Prestige sold by Eckart (Mica-T
- multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicates, and aluminium, may be envisaged.
- the size of the pigment that is useful in the context of the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 ⁇ m, preferably between 20 nm and 80 ⁇ m and more preferentially between 30 nm and 50 ⁇ m.
- compositions according to the invention may also contain one cosmetic agent(s) commonly used in cosmetics, such as fillers, thickeners, pasty compounds, gelling agents, film- forming polymers, surfactants, fibres, or mixtures thereof.
- one cosmetic agent(s) commonly used in cosmetics such as fillers, thickeners, pasty compounds, gelling agents, film- forming polymers, surfactants, fibres, or mixtures thereof.
- the proportion of cosmetic agent in the composition may vary widely depending on the intended site of application and the use of the composition.
- the compositions may contain from 0.01% to 95% by weight of such additives.
- compositions according to the invention may also comprise any cosmetic active agent, such as active agents chosen from antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, bactericidal or antiperspirant active agents, neutralizers, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins and screening agents, in particular sunscreens.
- active agents chosen from antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, bactericidal or antiperspirant active agents, neutralizers, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins and screening agents, in particular sunscreens.
- compositions of the process according to the invention may be, independently, in the form of a suspension, a dispersion, a solution, a gel, an emulsion, especially an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, a wax-in-water or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion or a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or polyol/O/W or 0/W/O) or in the form of a cream, a paste, a mousse, a vesicular dispersion, especially of ionic or nonionic lipids, a two-phase or multiphase lotion, a powder or a paste, especially a soft paste.
- O/W oil-in-water
- W/O wax-in-water or water-in-oil
- W/O multiple emulsion
- the first and/or second compositions may be also anhydrous.
- anhydrous means that said composition contains less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% and more preferably is free from water.
- compositions in the process according to the invention may be, independently, in the form of a solid foundation, a lipstick wand or paste, a concealer product, an eye contour product, an eyeliner, a mascara, an eyeshadow, a body makeup product or a skin colouring product.
- the first and second, and where appropriate third, compositions are compositions for coating the eyelashes or the eyebrows and more particularly mascaras.
- the first and second, and where appropriate third, compositions are compositions for coating bodily or facial skin, more particularly compositions for making up bodily or facial skin, for instance foundations or body makeup compositions.
- a person skilled in the art may select the appropriate galenical form, and also the method for preparing it, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account firstly the nature of the constituents used, especially their solubility in the support, and secondly the intended use of the composition.
- the viscosity of the different raw materials was assessed using either one of the following, as previously disclosed.
- the mixture of the first and second compositions (in equal weight ratio 1/1) is easy to spread and after complete reaction of the reactive compounds, the formed film is not tacky and has a good adhesion to the skin.
- the so- formed film is supple and comfortable.
- the mixture of the first and second compositions (in equal weight ratio 1/1) is applied to the eyelashes using a mascara brush.
- the mixture of the first and second compositions after complete reaction of the reactive compounds leads to a film which is not tacky, and which has a good adhesion to the eyelashes.
- the so-formed film is supple and comfortable.
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Abstract
Cette invention concerne un procédé cosmétique pour maquiller et/ou soigner à des fins non thérapeutiques une matière kératinique, le procédé comprenant au moins l'application sur ladite matière kératinique d'un mélange comprenant au moins : - une résine MQ fonctionnelle réactive, A, - un composé d'organopolysiloxane réactif, B, ayant au moins trois groupes fonctionnels réactifs par molécule, - un composé d'organopolysiloxane réactif, C, différent du composé B, ayant au moins deux groupes fonctionnels réactifs par molécule et un poids moléculaire supérieur à 10 000 g/mol, et un catalyseur pour une réaction d'hydrosilylation, lesdits composés d'organopolysiloxane B et C étant capables d'avoir une interaction mutuelle par une réaction d'hydrosilylation en présence dudit catalyseur, et ladite résine MQ A étant capable d'avoir une interaction avec ledit composé B ou avec ledit composé C par une réaction d'hydrosilylation en présence dudit catalyseur.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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PCT/IB2009/052903 WO2011001219A1 (fr) | 2009-07-03 | 2009-07-03 | Procédé cosmétique pour revêtir une matière kératinique |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
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PCT/IB2009/052903 WO2011001219A1 (fr) | 2009-07-03 | 2009-07-03 | Procédé cosmétique pour revêtir une matière kératinique |
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WO2011001219A1 true WO2011001219A1 (fr) | 2011-01-06 |
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PCT/IB2009/052903 WO2011001219A1 (fr) | 2009-07-03 | 2009-07-03 | Procédé cosmétique pour revêtir une matière kératinique |
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WO (1) | WO2011001219A1 (fr) |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE102011078105A1 (de) * | 2011-06-27 | 2012-12-27 | Beiersdorf Ag | Neuste Verwendung von Silikonelastomeren in kosmetischen Zubereitungen |
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EP0865787A1 (fr) * | 1997-03-20 | 1998-09-23 | Dow Corning France S.A. | Procédé de production de compositions à libération contrÔlée |
WO2007071885A2 (fr) * | 2005-12-20 | 2007-06-28 | L'oréal | Kit comprenant une huile siliconee et des composes x et y silicones aptes a reagir ensemble sur les cils |
WO2008074859A1 (fr) * | 2006-12-20 | 2008-06-26 | L'oreal | Trousse cosmétique comprenant des composés aux silicones réactifs et une huile collante |
US20080159970A1 (en) * | 2006-12-20 | 2008-07-03 | L'oreal | Kit comprising silicone compounds and a cosmetic and/or dermatological active agent |
WO2009090243A1 (fr) * | 2008-01-17 | 2009-07-23 | L'oreal | Procédé de maquillage ou de soin de matières kératiniques, comprenant l'application de composés a, b et c qui sont des composés à base de silicone |
WO2009090242A1 (fr) * | 2008-01-17 | 2009-07-23 | L'oreal | Procédé de maquillage ou de soin pour matières kératiniques, comprenant l'application de composés a, b et c, lesquels composés sont à base de silicone |
-
2009
- 2009-07-03 WO PCT/IB2009/052903 patent/WO2011001219A1/fr active Application Filing
Patent Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP0865787A1 (fr) * | 1997-03-20 | 1998-09-23 | Dow Corning France S.A. | Procédé de production de compositions à libération contrÔlée |
WO2007071885A2 (fr) * | 2005-12-20 | 2007-06-28 | L'oréal | Kit comprenant une huile siliconee et des composes x et y silicones aptes a reagir ensemble sur les cils |
WO2008074859A1 (fr) * | 2006-12-20 | 2008-06-26 | L'oreal | Trousse cosmétique comprenant des composés aux silicones réactifs et une huile collante |
US20080159970A1 (en) * | 2006-12-20 | 2008-07-03 | L'oreal | Kit comprising silicone compounds and a cosmetic and/or dermatological active agent |
WO2009090243A1 (fr) * | 2008-01-17 | 2009-07-23 | L'oreal | Procédé de maquillage ou de soin de matières kératiniques, comprenant l'application de composés a, b et c qui sont des composés à base de silicone |
WO2009090242A1 (fr) * | 2008-01-17 | 2009-07-23 | L'oreal | Procédé de maquillage ou de soin pour matières kératiniques, comprenant l'application de composés a, b et c, lesquels composés sont à base de silicone |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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DE102011078105A1 (de) * | 2011-06-27 | 2012-12-27 | Beiersdorf Ag | Neuste Verwendung von Silikonelastomeren in kosmetischen Zubereitungen |
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