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WO2004071480A1 - Utilisation d'un extrait de champignons mycorhiziens - Google Patents

Utilisation d'un extrait de champignons mycorhiziens Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2004071480A1
WO2004071480A1 PCT/EP2004/000940 EP2004000940W WO2004071480A1 WO 2004071480 A1 WO2004071480 A1 WO 2004071480A1 EP 2004000940 W EP2004000940 W EP 2004000940W WO 2004071480 A1 WO2004071480 A1 WO 2004071480A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
acid
mushrooms
extract
skin
cosmetic
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2004/000940
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Christine Jeanmaire
Florence Henry
Gilles Pauly
Original Assignee
Cognis France S.A.
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Filing date
Publication date
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Publication of WO2004071480A1 publication Critical patent/WO2004071480A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/06—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9728—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P29/00—Non-central analgesic, antipyretic or antiinflammatory agents, e.g. antirheumatic agents; Non-steroidal antiinflammatory drugs [NSAID]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008—Preparations for oily skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/06—Preparations for care of the skin for countering cellulitis
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q7/00—Preparations for affecting hair growth

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. Your goal is to use an extract of mycorrhizal mushrooms.
  • the invention further relates to cosmetic preparations which contain such an extract.
  • Mushrooms are generally known as valuable suppliers of active ingredients for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Saprophytes or pathogenic plant parasites such as, for example, Grifola frondosa or Lentinus edodes are often used in cosmetics, since they are simply cultivated z ⁇ and can be obtained to a sufficient extent with minimal resources.
  • Saprophytes or pathogenic plant parasites such as, for example, Grifola frondosa or Lentinus edodes are often used in cosmetics, since they are simply cultivated z ⁇ and can be obtained to a sufficient extent with minimal resources.
  • Mycorrhiza fungi enter into a mutually beneficial symbiosis with host plants. They belong to the Basidiomycotina or Ascomycotina (truffle).
  • the fungi receive carbohydrates from their host plants and, in exchange, regulate the absorption of the hosts by water and nutrients such as phosphates and amino acids. This symbiosis is necessary for the life cycle of the mushrooms.
  • Japanese document JP 09227333 discloses cosmetic compositions with extracts from Basidiomycetes of the Boletaceae family, which have a skin-beautifying and moisturizing effect.
  • compositions of a later product should also have optimal dermatological compatibility, so that even sensitive consumers do not react with irritation.
  • the agents should also perform other functions which simultaneously affect the technical properties of the cosmetic product, such as storage stability, light stability and formulability positively influence or at least not deteriorate.
  • the complex task of the present patent application was to find new effects of already known fungi or related species and to enable the use of these extracts in cosmetic products which are also well tolerated for sensitive skin and also have good physico-chemical properties Have stability.
  • the present invention relates to the use of an extract from mycorrhiza fungi for the production of cosmetic preparations for topical use on the skin, scalp, the epithelial appendages and / or the mucous membranes.
  • the mycorrhiza fungi are ectomycorrhiza fungi.
  • the fungus Laccaria laccata is particularly preferred.
  • the use of an aqueous extract from Laccaria laccata is a preferred embodiment of the present invention.
  • the extracts of mycorrhizal fungi when used locally on the skin, the scalp, the epithelial appendages and / or the mucous membranes produce particular biological effects and have a very good tolerance.
  • the use of at least one fraction extracted from mycorrhizal fungi as an active ingredient, alone or in conjunction with at least one other active ingredient, in a composition or a cosmetic product when used locally on the skin, scalp, epithelial appendages and / or the mucous membranes shows regenerative effects , Anti-irritant effects, anti-aging effects, UV protection, anti-protease activity, anti-alpha-5-reductase activity, protective effect against oxidative stress and anti-inflammatory activities, as well as lipolytic activity on human fat cells.
  • the extracts of mycorrhizal mushrooms are particularly suitable for the preventive and healing treatment of sensitive skin types and as a sunscreen.
  • Mycorrhizal mushroom extracts work on the scalp against alopecia. They are well tolerated.
  • the invention therefore relates to the use of extracts of the mycorrhizal fungi in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations for sensitive skin.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of extracts from mycorrhizal fungi in cosmetic and / or dermatological agents with UV protection.
  • Sunscreens or UV light protection factors in the sense of the invention are light protection agents which are useful for protecting human skin against the damaging effects of direct and indirect radiation from the sun.
  • the sun's ulfraviolet radiation, which is responsible for tanning the skin, is divided into UV-C (wavelengths 200-280 ⁇ m), UV-B (280-315 nm) and UV-A (315-400 nm).
  • UV-B The pigmentation of normal skin under the influence of solar radiation, i.e. the formation of melanins is caused differently by UV-B and UV-A. Irradiation with UV-A rays ("long-wave UV”) results in the darkening of the melanin bodies already present in the epidermis, without any harmful effects being recognizable. This is different with the so-called “short-wave UV” (UV-B). This causes the development of so-called late pigment through the formation of new melanin grains. However, before the (protective) pigment is formed, the skin is exposed to the unfiltered radiation, which - depending on the duration of exposure - can lead to the formation of reddened skin (erythema), skin inflammation (sunburn) and even burn blisters.
  • the extracts of mycorrhiza fungi according to the invention are additionally used in combination with other sunscreens or UV light protection factors as UV absorbers or light filters (light protection factors), which convert the UV radiation into harmless heat, in order to achieve a synergistic effect.
  • sunscreens or UV light protection factors as UV absorbers or light filters (light protection factors), which convert the UV radiation into harmless heat, in order to achieve a synergistic effect.
  • UV light protection factors used in addition to the mushroom extracts are, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) at room temperature which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again.
  • UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isocyanate ester 2-cyano-3,3- 2-ethylhexyl phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate
  • Triazine derivatives such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-hexyloxy) -l, 3 5 5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 AI or dioctyl butamido triazone ( Uvasorb® HEB);
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.
  • UVA filters methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), l-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-l, 3-dione and enamine compounds, as described for example in DE 19712033 AI (BASF).
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
  • insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts
  • suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
  • Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
  • the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm.
  • the pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized available. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or dimethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of extracts from mycorrhizal fungi in agents for the preventive or curative treatment of signs of aging of the skin, scalp, the epithelial appendages and / or the mucous membranes.
  • Another name for this type of care product is anti-aging. These signs of aging include any type of wrinkles and wrinkles. Treatments include slowing skin aging. The signs of aging can have a variety of causes. In particular, these signs of aging are caused by damage to the skin induced by UV radiation. In a special embodiment of the invention, these care products are used to treat signs of aging in the skin induced by UV radiation.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of extracts from mycorrhizal fungi in cosmetic products with anti-protease activity, in particular with anti-collagenase and / or anti-elastase activity.
  • These proteases (collagenase and the different elastases) catalyze the fragmentation and destruction of the dermal macromolecules such as proteoglycan, collagen and elastin and thus lead to aging of the skin and to the effects of natural skin aging after UV radiation.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of extracts of the mycorrhiza fungi as a cosmetic anti-inflammatory agent.
  • anti-inflammatory agents are to be understood as the type of care products which can cure inflammation of the skin or which can prevent inflammation.
  • the inflammation can have a variety of causes.
  • inflammation can be treated which is caused by UV radiation, skin impurities or bacterial or hormonal skin changes, e.g. B. Acne can be induced.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of extracts from mycorrhiza fungi in protective and restorative care products for stimulating the metabolism of the skin cells with revitalizing, regenerating, moisturizing and / or reactivating Activities for the skin, scalp, epithelial appendages and / or mucous membranes.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of extracts from mycorrhiza fungi in cell-protecting agents to strengthen the immune defense of the skin.
  • This type of use of these care products has a positive effect, for example, against the negative influence of environmental pollution on the skin and / or hair, against environmental toxins or oxidative stress, by reactivating the natural functions of the skin and / or hair and making the skin and / or hair more resistant and thus strengthen the immune system.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of extracts from mycorrhizal fungi in cosmetic products to stimulate the synthesis of dermal macromolecules selected from the group consisting of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, proteoglycans, hyaluronic acid and their salts.
  • dermal macromolecules are understood in principle to be all macromolecules which are found as components of the skin either in the basement membrane between Dennis and the epidermis or in the Dennis and epidermis.
  • they are compounds selected from the group consisting of collagen, elastin, proteoglycans, fibronectins and hyaluronic acid and their salts.
  • Collagen consists of protein fibers and occurs in human skin in three different types (Type I, ITf and IV).
  • the individual polypeptide chains each with a large amount of the amino acid proline and as every third residue glycine, are wound around each other to form a triple helix.
  • the collagen fibers are synthesized as tropocol saws in the fibroblasts and discharged into the extracellular matrix.
  • the stimulation of the synthesis of collagen according to the invention leads to an increase in the production of collagen and thus to an increased intermolecular solidification of the Dennis and thus to a skin which appears firmer.
  • the elastin is also a fibrous protein. These are unstructured covalently cross-linked polypeptide chains that form a rubber-like elastic material. After synthesis, the elastin is released into the extracellular matrix in the skin cells.
  • the stimulation according to the invention of the synthesis of the elastin polypeptide chains leads to an increase in the production of elastin and thus to an increase in the elasticity of the skin.
  • proteoglycans consist of carbohydrates and proteins, but the proportion of polysaccharides predominates in proteoglycans.
  • the skin's proteoglycans contain dermatan sulfate.
  • Approx. 140 such proteoglycans with the help of smaller proteins (link proteins) accumulate non-covalently on a hyaluronic acid chain to form molecular aggregates with an average molecular weight of approx. 2 million.
  • the polyanionic aggregates which are characterized by their water-binding capacity, can form solid gels that give the supporting tissue (extracellular matrix) elasticity and tensile strength. They protect the epithelia in mucus.
  • the stimulation of the synthesis of proteoglycans and hyaluronic acid according to the invention leads to a larger amount of extracellular matrix and thus to an increased elasticity and tensile strength.
  • Fibronectin is a group of high-molecular glycoproteins (MR of the dimer approx. 440000-550000) that are found in the extracellular matrix and in extracellular fluids.
  • the fibronectin dimer connected by two disulfide bridges, an elongated molecule with the dimensions 600x25 ⁇ , binds by linear combination of three different repeating domains and the like.
  • a Collagens, glycosaminoglycans, proteoglycans, fibrin (above), deoxyribonucleic acids, immunoglobulins, plasminogen, plasminogen activator, thrombospondin, cells and microorganisms. Through these properties, it conveys z.
  • Hyaluronic acid is an acidic glycosaminoglycan
  • the basic building block of hyaluronic acid is an aminodisaccharide composed of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine in a (beta l-3) glycosidic bond, which is glycosidic with the next unit (beta l-4) connected is.
  • the extracts according to the invention can furthermore be used in cosmetic compositions for reducing the proteolysis and glycation of macromolecules in the skin.
  • Proteolysis is a process in which proteins are cleaved by hydrolysis of the peptide bonds using acids or enzymes. Another name for proteilysis is proteinase digestion.
  • the reduction in proteolysis according to the invention leads to a reduced cleavage of the dermal macromolecules which have a protein structure and thus to prevent the reduction in skin firming and to prevent the degradation of increased elasticity.
  • Glycation is a non-enzymatic reaction of glucose or other sugars with proteins to form glycoproteins. This reaction leads to unintentional changes to the collagen and elastin and thus to changes in the extracellular matrix.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of extracts of Myconhiza mushrooms in cosmetic products to improve wound healing.
  • Improvements in wound healing in the sense of the invention are to be understood as improvements which can support, stimulate and intensify the natural healing process in the event of a pathological change in the skin.
  • a pathological change in the skin can have various causes, one possible cause is an injury.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of extracts of Myconhiza mushrooms in cosmetic products with anti-alpha-5-reductase activity, preferably an anti-acne activity and / or an anti-Sebonhea activity for skin and / or hair.
  • the extracts according to the invention can also be used in cosmetic agents against alopecia.
  • the regenerating properties of the extract according to the invention also stimulate the scalp and thereby lead to a positive effect against alopecia, a pathologically caused hair loss.
  • the extracts according to the invention can furthermore be used in cosmetic compositions as tyrosine inhibitors and / or as skin whitening agents.
  • the skin whitening agents also known as skin whiteners, lead to a lighter skin appearance.
  • One possibility for skin lightening or whitening is through the inhibition of tyrosinase, because tyrosinase is involved in the formation of the skin pigment melanin (depigmentation).
  • the use of extracts from Myconhiza mushrooms according to the invention leads to a reduced formation of melanin and thus to skin whitening due to the inhibition of tyrosinase.
  • the extracts from Myconhiza mushrooms can additionally be used in combination with other tyrosinase inhibitors as depigmenting agents such as arbutin, fefulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).
  • tyrosinase inhibitors as depigmenting agents such as arbutin, fefulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).
  • the extracts to be used according to the invention are produced by customary extraction methods.
  • suitable conventional extraction methods such as maceration, remaceration, digestion, movement maceration, vortex extraction, ultrasound extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation, repercolation, evacolation (extraction under reduced pressure), diacolation and solid-liquid extraction under continuous reflux , which is carried out in a Soxhlet extractor, which is familiar to a person skilled in the art and in principle all can be used, is exemplary of Hager's Handbook of Pharmaceutical Practice, (5th Edition, Vol. 2, pp. 1026-1030, Springer Verlag, Berlin- Heidelberg-New-York 1991).
  • Fresh or dried mushrooms or mushroom components can be used as the starting material, the use of dried mushrooms or mushroom components is preferred, but usually mushrooms or mushroom components are used which are mechanically comminuted before extraction. All the grinding methods known to the person skilled in the art are suitable here, for example crushing with a mortar.
  • the extraction is usually carried out at 20 to 100 ° C, preferably at 20 to 85 ° C, in particular either at the boiling point of the solvent used or at room temperature.
  • the extraction takes place under an inert gas atmosphere to avoid oxidation of the ingredients of the extract.
  • the extraction times are set by the person skilled in the art depending on the starting material, the extraction process, the extraction temperature, the ratio of solvent to raw material, etc.
  • the crude fractions obtained can optionally be subjected to further conventional steps, such as purification, concentration and / or decolorization. If desired, the extracts produced in this way can, for example, be subjected to a selective separation of individual undesirable ingredients.
  • the extraction can be carried out to any desired degree of extraction, but is usually carried out until exhaustion.
  • the present invention includes the knowledge that the extraction conditions and the yields of the final extracts can be selected depending on the desired field of use. If desired, the extracts can then be subjected to spray or freeze drying, for example.
  • the amount of mushroom extracts used in the preparations mentioned depends on the type of application of the extracts and on the concentration of the individual ingredients.
  • the total amount of the mushroom extract contained in the preparations according to the invention is generally 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.03 to 1% by weight, based on the final preparation , with the proviso that the amounts given with water and possibly other auxiliaries and additives add up to 100% by weight.
  • the extracts according to the invention can also be incorporated into or connected to any other applicable cosmetic vector, for example film-forming agents, liposomes, micro and nanocapsules, micro and nanoparticles.
  • the invention accordingly furthermore relates to cosmetic compositions comprising an extract from Myccorhiza mushrooms in encapsulated form or absorbed on a carrier.
  • Cosmetic preparations or agents in the sense of the invention are skin care products. These care products include stimulating, healing and building effects for the skin. Care products within the meaning of the invention are preferably those care products which have a stimulating effect on the skin cells and their functions and also have a constructive effect on the skin and preventive action against environmental influences on the skin. Furthermore, care products are preferably to be understood within the meaning of the invention as those which can either improve or cure various skin diseases with their different effects on the appearance and function of the skin.
  • the preparations according to the invention have an excellent skin-care effect with high skin tolerance. In addition, they show good stability, in particular against oxidative decomposition of the products.
  • the extract can be worked into suitable cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, macro, micro and nanocapsules, macro, micro and nanoparticles and other analogous and known forms.
  • the aforementioned extracts can be used for skin care and hygiene applications (products for the face and body, day or night cosmetics, sunscreen strengthening, regenerating products, anti-wrinkle cosmetics, slimming products, anti-aging agents) in the form of preparations , such as lotions or shampoos, creams, foaming agents, soaps, sticks, gels, hydrogels, spray agents, emulsions, protective agents, repairing, softening, film-forming and photo-protective agents; Products for permanent waves and for coloring hair.
  • skin care and hygiene applications products for the face and body, day or night cosmetics, sunscreen strengthening, regenerating products, anti-wrinkle cosmetics, slimming products, anti-aging agents
  • preparations such as lotions or shampoos, creams, foaming agents, soaps, sticks, gels, hydrogels, spray agents, emulsions, protective agents, repairing, softening, film-forming and photo-protective agents.
  • the above-mentioned extracts can be used for the production of cosmetic agents, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powders or ointments, but primarily products for face and body, day or night cosmetics, sunscreens, strengthening, regenerating products, anti-wrinkle cosmetics, slimming products and agents against aging processes.
  • These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers.
  • Ren polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents, solubilizers, hydrotrope) Contain preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.
  • Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants can be present as surface-active substances, the proportion of the agents usually being about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight.
  • anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymate sulfate ethersulfates, hydroxymate sulfate ethersulfates, hydroxymate sulfate ethersulfates, Mono- and dialkylsulf
  • anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or especially glucoramide acid vegetable derivatives, fatty acid glucoronic acid protein derivatives, and fatty acid glucoramides Wheat base), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides.
  • nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and esterquats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazoliniumbetaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds.
  • Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids ligoglucoside, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.
  • Suitable oil bodies are, for example, Guerbet alcohols preferably containing 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 -fatty alcohols or esters of branched C 6 -C ⁇ 3 - Carboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl lerucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl
  • esters of linear C 6 -C 22 fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol
  • esters of C 18 -C 38 alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 2 fatty alcohols in particular dioctyl malates
  • esters of linear ones and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or Trirner triol
  • polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or Trirner triol
  • Guerbet alcohols triglycerides based on Ce fatty acids
  • esters of C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohols and or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids especially benzoic acid, esters of C 2 -C 12 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched
  • Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:
  • Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) as well as polyglucosides (eg cellulose) saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
  • Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate; Polymer emulsifiers, e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
  • the adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and Substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out corresponds. C 12/18 - fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
  • Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar nest is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to approximately 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.
  • Suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearinklarediglycerid, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolklaremoglycerid, Ricinolklarediglyce- chloride, Linolklaremonoglycerid, Linolklarediglycerid, Linolenchuremonogiycerid, linolenic klarediglycerid, Erucaklaremonoglycerid, Erucaklakladiglycerid, Weinklaremonoglycerid, Weinklarediglycerid, Citronenklamonoglycerid, Citronendiglycerid, ⁇ pfelklaremo- noglycerid, Malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1
  • sorbitan sorbitan, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan come diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, trioleate, Sorbitanmonoerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, sorbitan tandihydroxystearat, Sorbitantrihydroxystearat, Sorbitanmonotartrat , Sorbitan sesquitarate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritarate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan citrate, sorb
  • polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyce ryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether ( Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate
  • Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid.
  • Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid.
  • Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic
  • Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-AJJcyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylammopropyldimethylammoniumglycinate, and 2-alkylmethyl-carboxylate -3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the coconut acylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate.
  • betaines such as the N-AJJcyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium
  • fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one - COOH or -SO 3 H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .
  • particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C 12/18 acyl sarcosine.
  • cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.
  • Typical examples of fats are glycerides, that is to say solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which essentially consist of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, and waxes include natural waxes, such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax and sugar ear wax , Ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol colwaxes in question.
  • natural waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax
  • lecithins In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives.
  • lecithins are those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids.
  • Pearlescent waxes that can be used are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15
  • Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, Polyacrylates (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone.
  • aerosil types hydrophilic silicas
  • polysaccharides in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose,
  • Bentone® Gel VS-5PC which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate
  • Surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride are also suitable.
  • Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
  • Metal salts of fatty acids such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpynolidone vinylimidazole polymers, such as Luviquat® (BASF), Condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethyldiethylroxin (hydroxymethylaminohydroxin) -dimethylaminohydroxin Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl
  • Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpynolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornylacrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether, maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, crosslinked acrylics and their polyols, non-crosslinked acrylic and amidopropyltrimethylammomum chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylicate / tert-butylaminoemyl methacrylate / 2-hyroxroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpynolidone, vinylpynolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpynolidone / vinyl acrylate and vinyl acrylate / vinyl acrylate
  • Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature.
  • Simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
  • secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
  • Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. Anserine), carotenoids, caroline (e.g.
  • ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
  • thioredoxin glutathione, Cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, himinath) in very low tolerable doses (e.g.
  • chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, biliary extracts, bilirubin , Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g.
  • biogenic active substances include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, ⁇ -glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, meaning ceramides, To understand plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
  • deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors.
  • Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers. Anti-germ agents
  • germ-inhibiting agents such as.
  • esterase inhibitors include sterolsulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, Diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester and zinc glycinate.
  • sterolsulfates or phosphates such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate
  • dicarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid mono
  • Suitable as odor absorbers are substances which absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixers", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or agreed abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or perfume oils act as odor maskers and, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance.
  • Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and twigs as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
  • Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
  • fragrance oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • Antiperspirants reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor.
  • Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:
  • non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.
  • Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients.
  • suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with 1,2-propylene glycol.
  • customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants. Such oil soluble aids can e.g. his:
  • water-soluble additives are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusting agents, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinylpynolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.
  • Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt
  • Baypival® (climbazole), Ketoconazol®, (4-acetyl-1 - ⁇ - 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (lH-imidazol-l-ylmethyl) -l, 3-dioxylan-c- 4-ylmethoxyphenyl ⁇ piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, Schwefelpolyehtylenglykolsorbitanmonooleat, Schwefelrizinolpolyehtoxylat, Schwfel tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt Mo, Lamepon® UD (protein undec
  • Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases.
  • Possible insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butyl acetylaminopropionate
  • Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.
  • tyrosine inhibitors which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents are arbutin, ferulic acid, kjic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).
  • Alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons; technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
  • Methyl compounds such as, in particular, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
  • Lower alkyl glucosides in particular those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;
  • Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as sorbitol or mannitol, sugars with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
  • Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-l, 3-propanediol.
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.
  • Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme) ), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (Galbanum, Elemi, Benzoe, Mynhe, Olibanum, Opoponax).
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are product esters, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linylbenzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropylate propylate, pentylate propylate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether
  • the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal
  • the ketones include, for example, the jonones, ⁇ -isomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone
  • the alcohols Anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpinol
  • the hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balms.
  • fragrance oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin.
  • the dyes which can be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes. Examples are culinary red A (CI 16255), patent blue V (CI42051), indigotine (CI73015), chlorophyllin (CI75810), quinoline yellow (CI47005), titanium dioxide (CI77891), indanthrene blue RS (CI 69800) and madder varnish (CI 58000). Lummol can also be contained as luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.
  • the agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.
  • the purpose of the following experiments was to determine the regenerative and revitalizing properties of an aqueous extract of the fungus Laccaria laccata on human fibroblast cultures in vitro.
  • FCS fetal calf serum
  • Lipolysis is the removal of triglycerides stored in adipocytes by the enzyme triglyceride lipase.
  • the triglyceride lipase breaks down the triglycerides into free fatty acids and glycerin. These metabolic products are removed through the bloodstream. The free fatty acids can then be converted into energy by muscle cells.
  • the content of released glycerol (ie the activity of lipolysis) was determined spectoscropically in the supernatant medium according to the method of Carpene C. et al. (Carpene C. et al.; Discrimination of the adrenergiques a potentialite 2 par l'etude de la lipolyse sur des adipocytes de hamster; J. Pharmacol. (Paris), 12, 2, 219-224 (1981)). Each extract was tested against the reference substances (theophylline and isoprenaline). This test was carried out on two to six different samples of human adipocytes. The results were presented as the average value of the released glycerol as a percentage improvement compared to the control test (the control test corresponds to 0%).
  • the release of glycerin was moderately activated by the aqueous extract. So the aqueous extract has shown a potential for stimulating lipolysis and thus for a slimming effect.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation d'un extrait de champignons mycorhiziens pour la production de produits cosmétiques, ainsi que des préparations cosmétiques qui contiennent un extrait de champignons mycorhiziens. Ledit extrait de champignons mycorhiziens présente une grande efficacité dans les soins de peaux sensibles, il possède d'excellentes caractéristiques cosmétiques, il sert, par exemple, à protéger la peau contre le vieillissement et il a un effet positif protégeant les cellules contre le stress oxydatif, contre les substances toxiques pour l'environnement nocives et contre les endommagements causés par les U.V.
PCT/EP2004/000940 2003-02-12 2004-02-03 Utilisation d'un extrait de champignons mycorhiziens WO2004071480A1 (fr)

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FR0301655 2003-02-12
FR0301655A FR2850868A1 (fr) 2003-02-12 2003-02-12 Utilisation d'un extrait de champignon mycorrhiza pour la preparation d'agents cosmetiques et/ou dermopharmaceutiques

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Cited By (4)

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FR2961692A1 (fr) * 2010-06-25 2011-12-30 Sothys Auriac Utilisation cosmetique d'un extrait de champignon comestible pedoncule, composition cosmetique en comportant et procede cosmetique les mettant en oeuvre
WO2012035209A1 (fr) * 2010-09-16 2012-03-22 Metsäntutkimuslaitos Extraits fongiques et leurs utilisations
DE202018101021U1 (de) 2017-02-24 2018-03-07 Liudmila Kalitukha Mittel zur Normalisierung von Haarwachstum und Kopfhautzustand
CN118496390A (zh) * 2024-05-08 2024-08-16 华南理工大学 一种红根须腹菌纯化多糖及其制备方法与应用

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