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WO2001029270A1 - Method for treating skin and resulting skin - Google Patents

Method for treating skin and resulting skin Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2001029270A1
WO2001029270A1 PCT/FR2000/002926 FR0002926W WO0129270A1 WO 2001029270 A1 WO2001029270 A1 WO 2001029270A1 FR 0002926 W FR0002926 W FR 0002926W WO 0129270 A1 WO0129270 A1 WO 0129270A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
skin
face
finishing product
pigments
dyes
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/FR2000/002926
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Jérôme MAINI
Original Assignee
Societe De Cuirs Et Peaux
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Societe De Cuirs Et Peaux filed Critical Societe De Cuirs Et Peaux
Priority to EP00971466A priority Critical patent/EP1224334A1/en
Publication of WO2001029270A1 publication Critical patent/WO2001029270A1/en

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Classifications

    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C14SKINS; HIDES; PELTS; LEATHER
    • C14CCHEMICAL TREATMENT OF HIDES, SKINS OR LEATHER, e.g. TANNING, IMPREGNATING, FINISHING; APPARATUS THEREFOR; COMPOSITIONS FOR TANNING
    • C14C11/00Surface finishing of leather
    • C14C11/003Surface finishing of leather using macromolecular compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to methods of treating skin for the manufacture of leathers, more particularly to methods of treating skin comprising a step consisting in depositing at least one layer of a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on at least one face of said skin, all or part of said at least one face.
  • the treatment of the skins can comprise the deposition of a layer of a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on one face of the skin, generally, the flower side of the skin, this deposition being carried out when the skin is dry, normally in the finishing phase of the leather treatment, after the skin has been tanned, generally retanned, nourished, tinted, and dried.
  • a layer of a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes
  • this layer can reduce the natural appearance of the leather, or even give it an appearance of synthetic material, which can harm its marketing, since it is contrary to the very nature of leather which is a natural product.
  • the prior art methods of treating skins comprising depositing a layer of finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes at the end of leather treatment limit the field of application of the leathers resulting from such methods to products excluding high-end products.
  • the invention consists of a method of treating a skin comprising a step consisting in depositing at least one layer of a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on at least one face of said skin, all or part of said at least one face, characterized in that it consists in depositing said finishing product on at least one face of said skin when the latter is in the wet state.
  • the method according to the invention makes it possible to obtain, for a given finishing product, and by comparison with a method of the prior art as defined above, a leather for which the deposited finishing product drowns better on surface of the skin, that is to say it allows in particular a less accentuated contrast with the natural color or not of the leather.
  • the feel of the leather obtained according to the method according to the invention is softer, the suppleness of the skin retained, and the appearance more natural.
  • the process according to the invention can make it possible to avoid one or more operations such as fulling or softening of the skins at the end of treatment of the latter.
  • wet skin is meant here any skin whose moisture content is higher than the normal moisture content of a so-called dry skin, for example, the condition of skin after bathing or any treatment aimed at imparting to the skin a level of humidity higher than the normal rate of so-called dry skin, such as for example a spray treatment; in the case of a skin taken out of a bath, the wet state will preferably refer to a skin wrung out, or put on an easel for a certain time, so as to extract from the skin a large quantity of liquid, so that the finishing product can be deposited.
  • the method according to the invention consists in depositing said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on at least one face of a tanned skin, and according to another advantageous characteristic, the method according to invention consists in depositing said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes on at least one face of said skin tanned in the blue-wet state.
  • the method according to the invention according to the above characteristics allows the deposition of a layer of finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes after tanning of the skin, the latter being still wet due to its exit from the bath of tanned or newly moistened after drying. The wet blue state is obtained after a chrome tanning of the skin.
  • the skin can be subjected to various leather finishing treatments.
  • the method according to the invention consists in depositing said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes on at least one face of said tanned skin after the latter has undergone at least one of the following operations: retanning , food, tincture.
  • retanning a characteristic of the finishing product
  • food a characteristic of the finishing product
  • tincture a characteristic of the following operations
  • said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes comprises a nitrocellulose lacquer.
  • said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes comprises a fixing based on polyurethane in an aqueous medium.
  • the method according to the invention consists in depositing said at least one layer of a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes on at least one face of said skin, in whole or in part of said one. face at least, by means of an applicator cylinder.
  • the method according to the invention consists in forming a specific pattern with said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on said at least one face of the skin.
  • the method according to the invention consists in forming said pattern on the surface of said applicator cylinder.
  • said pattern is given by the surface of the skin, said applicator cylinder having an application surface without said pattern.
  • the invention also relates to a skin comprising a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on at least one face of the skin, in whole or part of said at least one face, characterized in that it is obtained with a process according to the invention.
  • FIG. 1 represents a diagram of a first exemplary embodiment of a method of treating a skin according to the invention.
  • FIG. 2 represents a diagram of a second exemplary embodiment of a method for treating a skin according to the invention.
  • pickle skins that is to say skins which have undergone an intermediate treatment between work in river and tanning, consisting in treating the skin in guts with a strong acid solution in the presence of salt, generally sulfuric acid and sodium chloride or sea salt.
  • Pickling which acidifies and dehydrates the skin can be used to ensure the preservation of the tripe skin or to prepare the tripe skin for tanning.
  • the pickled skins undergo a tanning step 2 as shown in FIG. 1, for example a tanning of the mineral type with chromium, in order to obtain the transformation of the skins into leather, the chrome tanning step consisting in brewing the skins in baths based on chromium salts with continuous stirring, in a fuller for example.
  • a tanning step 2 as shown in FIG. 1, for example a tanning of the mineral type with chromium, in order to obtain the transformation of the skins into leather
  • the chrome tanning step consisting in brewing the skins in baths based on chromium salts with continuous stirring, in a fuller for example.
  • the skins tanned at the end of the chrome tanning step are called skins in the blue-wet or "wet-blue" state, and can undergo various operations in the wet state depending on the destination of the finished product, such as for example a rest on an easel 3 as shown in FIG. 1, a wringing (not shown), a slitting or a derayage (not shown) to obtain an equalization of the leather in thickness, a wind setting (not shown) in order to give the leather a flat surface.
  • the skins in the blue-wet state having possibly undergone the additional operation or operations described above are then, always in the blue-wet state treated in view of depositing 4 a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on at least one face of the skin, for example the flower side of the skin.
  • the finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes comprises for example a nitrocellulose lacquer in a solvent medium, the pigments and / or dyes being functions of the color which it is desired to obtain, and is applied in whole or in part on the side flower, by means of an applicator cylinder, used for example in a machine of the rolling coating type or "roller-coating machine", a machine conventionally used for printing dry skin.
  • the method according to the invention may consist in forming a specific pattern with the finishing product on the face of the skin on which it is applied.
  • the skin may include, for example on the flower side, a particular design aiming to give it a determined aesthetic.
  • the determined pattern can for example be formed on the surface of the applicator cylinder shaped for this purpose, or given by the surface of the skin because of its natural relief or not, the deposition of the finishing product being then carried out only on the only raised portions of the skin, the applicator cylinder then having an application surface free of said pattern.
  • the leathers coated with the finishing product as described above are then fed and dyed, these operations, widely known and used by those skilled in the art being generally carried out by stirring the leathers in a fuller in appropriate baths.
  • the purpose of dyeing is to color the leathers by chemical fixation of dyes on the leather fibers, more or less deeply in the thickness of the leathers depending on the destination of the latter.
  • Food consists of making the leather absorb varying amounts of fat essentially, to maintain the suppleness of the leather or to give it a certain impermeability, or a combination of the two.
  • the leathers are dried 6 in any known manner, for example by suspension in a heated and ventilated tunnel dryer, drying on ice, or in case of trellising of the leathers, an operation which requires rewetting of the leathers after a first drying, drying on frame or vacuum.
  • Various operations carried out on the leather after drying can possibly be carried out on the skins thus obtained depending in particular on their destination, for example palising, grinding or sanding, smoothing - ironing - satin-finishing, corking, printing, derayage, sawing, felting, fulling.
  • the process for treating one or more skins shown diagrammatically in FIG. 2 applies as for the first example of embodiment to pickle skins 1, and repeats the treatment operations described in support of FIG. 1, with the difference that the step referenced 4 consisting in depositing a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes on at least one face of the skin, for example the flower side of the latter, is carried out after the skin has undergone at least one of the following operations: retanning, food, dye in 5 in FIG. 2, while the skin is still in the wet state. The skin is then dried in 6 and optionally treated dry.
  • a third exemplary embodiment of a method according to the invention will now be described. It consists in treating the skins starting from the state of stain, that is to say a state corresponding to skins which have been tanned, generally retanned, fed and dried, but have not been dyed.
  • the method according to the invention consists in rewetting the skins in the state of stain, for example by soaking them in a bath containing a dye, additional retanning products and nourishing products, then subjecting them to the step consisting in deposit a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes on at least one face of the skin, for example the flower side, as described using the first example of embodiment, then to dry them and optionally treat dried up.
  • a variant may consist in rewetting the skins in the state of stain without dyeing them, then depositing on wet skins the finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, then dyeing them then drying and treating them dry.
  • a setting to the wind before the deposition of the finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes can prove to be really appropriate depending on the objective sought for the deposition of the finishing layer.
  • prior winding makes it possible to flatten the skin and then, for example by means of an applicator cylinder, to cover the skin over the entire area concerned by the deposition of the pattern.
  • mineral tanning with chromium was practiced; it should be noted that other types of tanning, for example vegetable tanning or tanning based on organic or synthetic products or a mixture of these can of course also be envisaged.
  • the finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes can be a product in an aqueous medium comprising, for example, a polyurethane-based fixing, the pigments and / or dyes being functions of the color which is desired. get.
  • aqueous medium comprising, for example, a polyurethane-based fixing
  • the pigments and / or dyes being functions of the color which is desired.

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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Treatment And Processing Of Natural Fur Or Leather (AREA)

Abstract

The invention concerns a method for treating a skin comprising a step (4) which consists in depositing at least a layer of finishing product containing pigments and/or dyes, on one surface at least of said skin (1), over the whole or part of said at least one surface; it consists in depositing said finishing product on one surface at least of said skin when the latter is in wet state. The invention also concerns the resulting skin.

Description

PROCEDE DE TRAITEMENT D'UNE PEAU, ET PEAU AINSI OBTENUE PROCESS FOR TREATING SKIN, AND SKIN THUS OBTAINED
La présente invention se rapporte aux procédés de traitement des peaux en vue de la fabrication des cuirs, plus particulièrement aux procédés de traitement d'une peau comprenant une étape consistant à déposer au moins une couche d'un produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants, sur une face au moins de ladite peau, en tout ou partie de ladite une face au moins.The present invention relates to methods of treating skin for the manufacture of leathers, more particularly to methods of treating skin comprising a step consisting in depositing at least one layer of a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on at least one face of said skin, all or part of said at least one face.
Selon l'art antérieur connu du demandeur, le traitement des peaux peut comprendre le dépôt d'une couche d'un produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants, sur une face de la peau, généralement, le côté fleur de la peau, ce dépôt étant effectué lorsque la peau est sèche, normalement en phase de finissage du traitement du cuir, après que la peau ait été tannée, généralement retannée, nourrie, teintée, et séchée. Ainsi, une application de ce qui précède peut consister à déposer sur le cuir un motif de couleur différente de celle donnée par la teinture afin de conférer à la surface du cuir un dessin particulier.According to the prior art known to the applicant, the treatment of the skins can comprise the deposition of a layer of a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on one face of the skin, generally, the flower side of the skin, this deposition being carried out when the skin is dry, normally in the finishing phase of the leather treatment, after the skin has been tanned, generally retanned, nourished, tinted, and dried. Thus, an application of the above may consist in depositing on the leather a pattern of color different from that given by the dye in order to give the surface of the leather a particular design.
Cependant, l'application d'une couche de produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants se pratiquant en phase finale du procédé de traitement du cuir, cette couche peut atténuer l'aspect naturel du cuir, voire lui conférer un aspect de matière synthétique, qui peut nuire à sa commercialisation, puisqu'il est contraire à la nature même du cuir qui est un produit naturel. Ainsi, les procédés de l'art antérieur de traitement des peaux comprenant le dépôt d'une couche de produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants en fin de traitement du cuir limitent le champ d'application des cuirs issus de tels procédés à des produits excluant les produits haut de gamme.However, the application of a layer of finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes being practiced in the final phase of the leather treatment process, this layer can reduce the natural appearance of the leather, or even give it an appearance of synthetic material, which can harm its marketing, since it is contrary to the very nature of leather which is a natural product. Thus, the prior art methods of treating skins comprising depositing a layer of finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes at the end of leather treatment limit the field of application of the leathers resulting from such methods to products excluding high-end products.
La présente invention a pour but de pallier ces inconvénients et d'apporter d'autres avantages. Plus précisément, l'invention consiste en un procédé de traitement d'une peau comprenant une étape consistant à déposer au moins une couche d'un produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants, sur une face au moins de ladite peau, en tout ou partie de ladite une face au moins, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à déposer ledit produit de finissage sur une face au moins de ladite peau lorsque cette dernière se trouve à l'état humide.The object of the present invention is to overcome these drawbacks and to provide other advantages. More specifically, the invention consists of a method of treating a skin comprising a step consisting in depositing at least one layer of a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on at least one face of said skin, all or part of said at least one face, characterized in that it consists in depositing said finishing product on at least one face of said skin when the latter is in the wet state.
Le procédé selon l'invention permet d'obtenir, pour un produit de finissage donné, et par comparaison avec un procédé de l'art antérieur tel que défini ci-dessus, un cuir pour lequel le produit de finissage déposé se noie mieux à la surface de la peau, c'est à dire qu'il permet notamment un contraste moins accentué avec la couleur naturelle ou non du cuir. En outre, le toucher du cuir obtenu suivant le procédé selon l'invention est plus doux, la souplesse de la peau conservée, et l'aspect plus naturel. De plus, le procédé selon l'invention peut permettre d'éviter une ou plusieurs opérations telles que foulonnage ou assouplissement des peaux en fin de traitement de ces dernières. Par peau à l'état humide, on entend ici toute peau dont le taux d'humidité est supérieur au taux d'humidité normal d'une peau dite sèche, par exemple, l'état d'une peau en sortie de bain ou de tout traitement visant à conférer à la peau un taux d'humidité supérieur au taux normal d'une peau dite sèche, comme par exemple un traitement par aspersion ; dans le cas d'une peau sortie d'un bain, l'état humide se rapportera de préférence à une peau essorée, ou mise sur chevalet pendant un certain temps, de manière à extraire de la peau une grande quantité de liquide, de sorte que le dépôt du produit de finissage puisse être effectué. Selon une caractéristique avantageuse, le procédé suivant l'invention consiste à déposer ledit produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants, sur une face au moins d'une peau tannée, et selon une autre caractéristique avantageuse, le procédé selon l'invention consiste à déposer ledit produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants sur une face au moins de ladite peau tannée à l'état de bleu- humide. le procédé suivant l'invention selon les caractéristiques ci-dessus permet le dépôt d'une couche de produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants après tannage de la peau, cette dernière étant encore humide du fait de sa sortie du bain de tannage ou nouvellement humidifiée après avoir été séchée. L'état de bleu-humide est obtenu après un tannage au chrome de la peau. Après le dépôt d'une couche de produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants, la peau peut être soumise à divers traitements de finition du cuir.The method according to the invention makes it possible to obtain, for a given finishing product, and by comparison with a method of the prior art as defined above, a leather for which the deposited finishing product drowns better on surface of the skin, that is to say it allows in particular a less accentuated contrast with the natural color or not of the leather. In addition, the feel of the leather obtained according to the method according to the invention is softer, the suppleness of the skin retained, and the appearance more natural. In addition, the process according to the invention can make it possible to avoid one or more operations such as fulling or softening of the skins at the end of treatment of the latter. By wet skin is meant here any skin whose moisture content is higher than the normal moisture content of a so-called dry skin, for example, the condition of skin after bathing or any treatment aimed at imparting to the skin a level of humidity higher than the normal rate of so-called dry skin, such as for example a spray treatment; in the case of a skin taken out of a bath, the wet state will preferably refer to a skin wrung out, or put on an easel for a certain time, so as to extract from the skin a large quantity of liquid, so that the finishing product can be deposited. According to an advantageous characteristic, the method according to the invention consists in depositing said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on at least one face of a tanned skin, and according to another advantageous characteristic, the method according to invention consists in depositing said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes on at least one face of said skin tanned in the blue-wet state. the method according to the invention according to the above characteristics allows the deposition of a layer of finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes after tanning of the skin, the latter being still wet due to its exit from the bath of tanned or newly moistened after drying. The wet blue state is obtained after a chrome tanning of the skin. After depositing a layer of finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, the skin can be subjected to various leather finishing treatments.
Selon une autre caractéristique avantageuse, le procédé suivant l'invention consiste à déposer ledit produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants sur une face au moins de ladite peau tannée après que cette dernière ait subi au moins une des opérations suivantes : retannage, nourriture, teinture. Une telle caractéristique peut être appliquée lorsque la peau est encore humide du bain de retannage, nourriture et teinture ou après séchage et une fois humidifiée à nouveau.According to another advantageous characteristic, the method according to the invention consists in depositing said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes on at least one face of said tanned skin after the latter has undergone at least one of the following operations: retanning , food, tincture. Such a characteristic can be applied when the skin is still wet from the retanning bath, food and dye or after drying and once again moistened.
Selon une autre caractéristique avantageuse, ledit produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants comprend une laque nitrocellulosique.According to another advantageous characteristic, said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes comprises a nitrocellulose lacquer.
Selon une autre caractéristique avantageuse, ledit produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants comprend une fixation à base de polyuréthane en milieu aqueux.According to another advantageous characteristic, said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes comprises a fixing based on polyurethane in an aqueous medium.
Selon une autre caractéristique avantageuse, le procédé selon l'invention consiste à déposer ladite au moins une couche d'un produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants sur une face au moins de ladite peau, en tout ou partie de ladite une face au moins, au moyen d'un cylindre applicateur.According to another advantageous characteristic, the method according to the invention consists in depositing said at least one layer of a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes on at least one face of said skin, in whole or in part of said one. face at least, by means of an applicator cylinder.
Selon une autre caractéristique avantageuse, le procédé selon l'invention consiste à former un motif déterminé avec ledit produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants, sur ladite une face au moins de la peau.According to another advantageous characteristic, the method according to the invention consists in forming a specific pattern with said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on said at least one face of the skin.
Selon une autre caractéristique avantageuse, le procédé selon l'invention consiste à former ledit motif sur la surface dudit cylindre applicateur. Selon une autre caractéristique avantageuse, ledit motif est donné par la surface de la peau, ledit cylindre applicateur possédant une surface d'application sans ledit motif.According to another advantageous characteristic, the method according to the invention consists in forming said pattern on the surface of said applicator cylinder. According to another advantageous characteristic, said pattern is given by the surface of the skin, said applicator cylinder having an application surface without said pattern.
L'invention se rapporte également à une peau comprenant un produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants, sur une face au moins de la peau, en tout ou partie de ladite une face au moins, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est obtenue avec un procédé suivant l'invention.The invention also relates to a skin comprising a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on at least one face of the skin, in whole or part of said at least one face, characterized in that it is obtained with a process according to the invention.
L'invention sera mieux comprise et d'autres caractéristiques et avantages apparaîtront à la lecture de la description qui suit de plusieurs exemples de mode de réalisation d'un procédé suivant l'invention, accompagnée des dessins annexés, exemples donnés à titre d'illustration et non limitatifs. La figure 1 représente un schéma d'un premier exemple de mode de réalisation d'un procédé de traitement d'une peau selon l'invention.The invention will be better understood and other characteristics and advantages will appear on reading the following description of several exemplary embodiments of a method according to the invention, accompanied by the appended drawings, examples given by way of illustration and not limiting. FIG. 1 represents a diagram of a first exemplary embodiment of a method of treating a skin according to the invention.
La figure 2 représente un schéma d'un deuxième exemple de mode de réalisation d'un procédé de traitement d'une peau selon l'invention.FIG. 2 represents a diagram of a second exemplary embodiment of a method for treating a skin according to the invention.
Le procédé de traitement d'une peau ou de plusieurs peaux représenté schématiquement sur la figure 1 s'applique dans le cas d'espèce à des peaux dites picklees 1, c'est à dire des peaux qui ont subi un traitement intermédiaire entre le travail en rivière et le tannage, consistant à traiter la peau en tripe par une solution d'acide fort en présence de sel, généralement de l'acide sulfurique et du chlorure de sodium ou sel marin. Le picklage qui acidifie et déshydrate la peau peut être utilisé dans un but d'assurer la conservation de la peau en tripe ou dans un but de préparer la peau en tripe au tannage.The process for treating a skin or several skins represented diagrammatically in FIG. 1 applies in the present case to so-called pickle skins 1, that is to say skins which have undergone an intermediate treatment between work in river and tanning, consisting in treating the skin in guts with a strong acid solution in the presence of salt, generally sulfuric acid and sodium chloride or sea salt. Pickling which acidifies and dehydrates the skin can be used to ensure the preservation of the tripe skin or to prepare the tripe skin for tanning.
Les peaux picklees subissent une étape de tannage 2 comme représenté sur la figure 1, par exemple un tannage de type minéral au chrome, en vue d'obtenir la transformation des peaux en cuir, l'étape de tannage au chrome consistant à brasser les peaux dans des bains à base de sels de chrome sous agitation continue, dans un foulon par exemple.The pickled skins undergo a tanning step 2 as shown in FIG. 1, for example a tanning of the mineral type with chromium, in order to obtain the transformation of the skins into leather, the chrome tanning step consisting in brewing the skins in baths based on chromium salts with continuous stirring, in a fuller for example.
Les peaux tannées en sortie de l'étape de tannage au chrome sont dites peaux à l'état bleu-humide ou "wet-blue", et peuvent subir diverses opérations à l'état humide en fonction de la destination du produit fini, comme par exemple un repos sur chevalet 3 comme représenté sur la figure 1, un essorage (non représenté), un refendage ou un derayage (non représenté) pour obtenir une égalisation du cuir en épaisseur, une mise au vent (non représentée) en vue de donner au cuir une surface plane.The skins tanned at the end of the chrome tanning step are called skins in the blue-wet or "wet-blue" state, and can undergo various operations in the wet state depending on the destination of the finished product, such as for example a rest on an easel 3 as shown in FIG. 1, a wringing (not shown), a slitting or a derayage (not shown) to obtain an equalization of the leather in thickness, a wind setting (not shown) in order to give the leather a flat surface.
Les peaux à l'état bleu-humide ayant éventuellement subi la ou les opérations complémentaires décrites ci-dessus sont ensuite, toujours à l'état bleu-humide traitées en vue de déposer 4 un produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants, sur une face au moins de la peau, par exemple le côté fleur de la peau. Le produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants comprend par exemple une laque nitrocellulosique en milieu solvant, les pigments et/ou les colorants étant fonctions de la couleur que l'on désire obtenir, et est appliqué en tout ou partie du côté fleur, au moyen d'un cylindre applicateur, mis en œuvre par exemple dans une machine de type à enduction par laminage ou "roller-coating machine", machine utilisée de manière conventionnelle pour l'impression des peaux sèches. Il est à noter que le procédé selon l'invention peut consister à former un motif déterminé avec le produit de finissage sur la face de la peau sur laquelle il est appliqué. Ainsi la peau pourra comporter, par exemple côté fleur, un dessin particulier visant à lui conférer une esthétique déterminée. Le motif déterminé peut par exemple être formé sur la surface du cylindre applicateur façonnée à cet effet, ou donné par la surface de la peau en raison de son relief naturel ou non, le dépôt du produit de finissage n'étant alors effectué que sur les seules parties en relief de la peau, le cylindre applicateur possédant alors une surface d'application exempte dudit motif.The skins in the blue-wet state having possibly undergone the additional operation or operations described above are then, always in the blue-wet state treated in view of depositing 4 a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on at least one face of the skin, for example the flower side of the skin. The finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes comprises for example a nitrocellulose lacquer in a solvent medium, the pigments and / or dyes being functions of the color which it is desired to obtain, and is applied in whole or in part on the side flower, by means of an applicator cylinder, used for example in a machine of the rolling coating type or "roller-coating machine", a machine conventionally used for printing dry skin. It should be noted that the method according to the invention may consist in forming a specific pattern with the finishing product on the face of the skin on which it is applied. Thus the skin may include, for example on the flower side, a particular design aiming to give it a determined aesthetic. The determined pattern can for example be formed on the surface of the applicator cylinder shaped for this purpose, or given by the surface of the skin because of its natural relief or not, the deposition of the finishing product being then carried out only on the only raised portions of the skin, the applicator cylinder then having an application surface free of said pattern.
Selon le procédé représenté sur la figure 1, les cuirs revêtus du produit de finissage tels que décrits ci-dessus sont ensuite nourris et teintés, ces opérations, largement connues et utilisées par l'homme du métier étant effectuées généralement par brassage 5 des cuirs dans un foulon dans des bains appropriés. La teinture à pour but de colorer les cuirs par fixation chimique de colorants sur les fibres du cuir, plus ou moins profondément dans l'épaisseur des cuirs suivant la destination de ces derniers. La nourriture consiste à faire absorber au cuir des quantités variables de matières grasses essentiellement, pour maintenir la souplesse du cuir ou lui conférer une certaine imperméabilité, ou une combinaison des deux. Ensuite, les cuirs sont séchés 6 de toute manière connue, par exemple par suspension dans un séchoir à tunnel chauffé et ventilé, sèche sur glace, ou en cas de palissonnage des cuirs, opération qui nécessite une réhumidification des cuirs après un premier séchage, séchage sur cadre ou sous vide. Diverses opérations pratiquées sur le cuir après séchage peuvent éventuellement être réalisées sur les peaux ainsi obtenues en fonction notamment de leur destination, par exemple palissonnage, meulage ou ponçage, lissage - repassage - satinage, liégeage, impression, derayage, sciage, feutrage, foulonnage.According to the process represented in FIG. 1, the leathers coated with the finishing product as described above are then fed and dyed, these operations, widely known and used by those skilled in the art being generally carried out by stirring the leathers in a fuller in appropriate baths. The purpose of dyeing is to color the leathers by chemical fixation of dyes on the leather fibers, more or less deeply in the thickness of the leathers depending on the destination of the latter. Food consists of making the leather absorb varying amounts of fat essentially, to maintain the suppleness of the leather or to give it a certain impermeability, or a combination of the two. Then, the leathers are dried 6 in any known manner, for example by suspension in a heated and ventilated tunnel dryer, drying on ice, or in case of trellising of the leathers, an operation which requires rewetting of the leathers after a first drying, drying on frame or vacuum. Various operations carried out on the leather after drying can possibly be carried out on the skins thus obtained depending in particular on their destination, for example palising, grinding or sanding, smoothing - ironing - satin-finishing, corking, printing, derayage, sawing, felting, fulling.
Le procédé de traitement d'une ou plusieurs peaux représenté schématiquement sur la figure 2 s'applique comme pour le premier exemple de mode de réalisation à des peaux picklees 1, et reprend les opérations de traitement décrites à l'appui de la figure 1, à la différence que l'étape référencée 4 consistant à déposer un produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants sur une face au moins de la peau, par exemple le côté fleur de cette dernière, est réalisée après que la peau ait subi au moins une des opérations suivantes : retannage, nourriture, teinture en 5 sur la figure 2, alors que la peau est toujours à l'état humide. La peau est ensuite séchée en 6 et traitée éventuellement à sec.The process for treating one or more skins shown diagrammatically in FIG. 2 applies as for the first example of embodiment to pickle skins 1, and repeats the treatment operations described in support of FIG. 1, with the difference that the step referenced 4 consisting in depositing a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes on at least one face of the skin, for example the flower side of the latter, is carried out after the skin has undergone at least one of the following operations: retanning, food, dye in 5 in FIG. 2, while the skin is still in the wet state. The skin is then dried in 6 and optionally treated dry.
Un troisième exemple de mode de réalisation d'un procédé selon l'invention va maintenant être décrit. Il consiste à traiter les peaux à partir de l'état de stain, c'est à dire un état correspondant à des peaux qui ont été tannées, généralement retannées, nourries et séchées, mais n'ont pas été teintées. Le procédé selon l'invention consiste à réhumidifier les peaux à l'état de stain, par exemple en les trempant dans un bain contenant une teinture, des produits additionnels de retannage et des produits nourrissants, puis à leur faire subir l'étape consistant à déposer un produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants sur une face au moins de la peau, par exemple le côté fleur, comme décrit à l'aide du premier exemple de mode de réalisation, puis à les faire sécher et traiter éventuellement à sec. Une variante peut consister à réhumidifier les peaux à l'état de stain sans les teindre, puis déposer sur les peaux humides le produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants, les teindre ensuite puis les sécher et les traiter à sec.A third exemplary embodiment of a method according to the invention will now be described. It consists in treating the skins starting from the state of stain, that is to say a state corresponding to skins which have been tanned, generally retanned, fed and dried, but have not been dyed. The method according to the invention consists in rewetting the skins in the state of stain, for example by soaking them in a bath containing a dye, additional retanning products and nourishing products, then subjecting them to the step consisting in deposit a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes on at least one face of the skin, for example the flower side, as described using the first example of embodiment, then to dry them and optionally treat dried up. A variant may consist in rewetting the skins in the state of stain without dyeing them, then depositing on wet skins the finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, then dyeing them then drying and treating them dry.
Quel que soit le mode de réalisation adopté, une mise au vent avant le dépôt du produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants peut s'avérer réellement opportune en fonction de l'objectif recherché pour le dépôt de la couche de finissage. Par exemple, dans le cas de dépôt d'un motif particulier couvrant toute ou partie de la surface de la peau, mais devant couvrir l'intégralité de la zone portant le motif, c'est à dire les zones en creux comme les zones en reliefs de la peau, une mise au vent préalable permet d'aplanir la peau puis au moyen par exemple d'un cylindre applicateur de couvrir la peau sur l'intégralité de la zone concernée par le dépôt du motif.Whatever the embodiment adopted, a setting to the wind before the deposition of the finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes can prove to be really appropriate depending on the objective sought for the deposition of the finishing layer. For example, in the case of depositing a particular pattern covering all or part of the surface of the skin, but having to cover the entire area bearing the pattern, that is to say the hollow areas such as the reliefs of the skin, prior winding makes it possible to flatten the skin and then, for example by means of an applicator cylinder, to cover the skin over the entire area concerned by the deposition of the pattern.
Dans les trois exemples de mode de réalisation d'un procédé selon l'invention décrits ci-dessus, il a été pratiqué un tannage minéral au chrome ; il est à noter que d'autres types de tannage, par exemple un tannage végétal ou un tannage à base de produits organiques ou synthétiques ou un mélange de ceux-ci peuvent bien sûr également - être envisagés.In the three exemplary embodiments of a process according to the invention described above, mineral tanning with chromium was practiced; it should be noted that other types of tanning, for example vegetable tanning or tanning based on organic or synthetic products or a mixture of these can of course also be envisaged.
De manière alternative, le produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants peut être un produit en milieu aqueux comprenant par exemple une fixation à base de polyuréthane, les pigments et/ou les colorants étant fonctions de la couleur que l'on désire obtenir. Dans la présente description, deux types de produits de finissage ont été décrits, cependant, d'autres types de produits de finissage connus peuvent être utilisés dans le procédé selon l'invention, dans la mesure où ils sont compatibles avec une application sur une peau humide et où ils résistent aux traitements appliqués ultérieurement. Alternatively, the finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes can be a product in an aqueous medium comprising, for example, a polyurethane-based fixing, the pigments and / or dyes being functions of the color which is desired. get. In the present description, two types of finishing products have been described, however, other known types of finishing products can be used in the process according to the invention, insofar as they are compatible with application to a skin. humid and where they resist subsequent treatments.

Claims

R E V E N D I C A T I O N S
1. Procédé de traitement d'une peau comprenant une étape (4) consistant à déposer au moins une couche d'un produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants, sur une face au moins de ladite peau (1), en tout ou partie de ladite une face au moins, caractérisé en ce qu 'il consiste à déposer ledit produit de finissage sur une face au moins de ladite peau lorsque cette dernière se trouve à l'état humide.1. A method of treating a skin comprising a step (4) consisting in depositing at least one layer of a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on at least one face of said skin (1), all or part of said at least one face, characterized in that it consists in depositing said finishing product on at least one face of said skin when the latter is in the wet state.
2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à déposer ledit produit de finissage sur une face au moins d'une peau tannée. 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that it consists in depositing said finishing product on at least one face of a tanned skin.
3. Procédé selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce qu' consiste à déposer ledit produit de finissage sur une face au moins de ladite peau tannée à l'état de bleu- humide.3. Method according to claim 2, characterized in that consists in depositing said finishing product on at least one face of said skin tanned in the blue-wet state.
4. Procédé selon la revendication 2 ou 3, caractérisé en ce qu 'il consiste à déposer ledit produit de finissage sur une face au moins de ladite peau tannée après que cette dernière ait subi au moins une des opérations suivantes : retannage, nourriture, teinture.4. Method according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that it consists in depositing said finishing product on at least one face of said tanned skin after the latter has undergone at least one of the following operations: retanning, food, dyeing .
5. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que ledit produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants comprend une laque nitrocellulosique. 5. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes comprises a nitrocellulosic lacquer.
6. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que ledit produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants comprend une fixation à base de polyuréthane en milieu aqueux.6. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes comprises a fixing based on polyurethane in an aqueous medium.
7. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à déposer ladite au moins une couche d'un produit de finissage sur une face au moins de ladite peau, en tout ou partie de ladite une face au moins, au moyen d'un cylindre applicateur.7. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it consists in depositing said at least one layer of a finishing product on at least one face of said skin, in whole or part of said one. face at least, by means of an applicator cylinder.
8. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à former un motif déterminé avec ledit produit de finissage sur ladite une face au moins de la peau. 8. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it consists in forming a determined pattern with said finishing product on said at least one face of the skin.
9. Procédé selon les revendications 7 et 8, caractérisé en ce qu 'il consiste à former ledit motif sur la surface dudit cylindre applicateur.9. Method according to claims 7 and 8, characterized in that it consists in forming said pattern on the surface of said applicator cylinder.
10. Procédé selon les revendications 7 et 8, caractérisé en ce que ledit motif est donné par la surface de la peau, ledit cylindre applicateur possédant une surface d'application sans ledit motif. 10. Method according to claims 7 and 8, characterized in that said pattern is given by the surface of the skin, said applicator cylinder having an application surface without said pattern.
11. Peau comprenant un produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants, sur une face au moins de la peau, en tout ou partie de ladite une face au moins, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est obtenue avec un procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 à 10. 11. Skin comprising a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on at least one face of the skin, in whole or part of said at least one face, characterized in that it is obtained with a process according to 'one of claims 1 to 10.
PCT/FR2000/002926 1999-10-22 2000-10-20 Method for treating skin and resulting skin WO2001029270A1 (en)

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FR99/13198 1999-10-22
FR9913198A FR2800095B1 (en) 1999-10-22 1999-10-22 PROCESS FOR TREATING SKIN, AND SKIN THUS OBTAINED

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US3843320A (en) * 1972-05-31 1974-10-22 Us Agriculture Graft polymerization of vinyl monomers onto chrome-tanned hides and skins
FR2532953A1 (en) * 1982-09-10 1984-03-16 Bugey Maroquinerie Tanneur Process and machine for the treatment of pieces of leather.
US4914764A (en) * 1988-07-14 1990-04-10 Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft Bath pigmentation of leather
RU1801984C (en) * 1991-03-26 1993-03-15 Орловский научно-исследовательский институт легкого машиностроения Machine for applying coating on leather
EP0927768A2 (en) * 1997-12-31 1999-07-07 GE.MA.TA. S.p.A. Engraved cylinder for fitting to machines for rolled finishing of hides, artificial hides, fabric, synthetic materials and the like
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3843320A (en) * 1972-05-31 1974-10-22 Us Agriculture Graft polymerization of vinyl monomers onto chrome-tanned hides and skins
FR2532953A1 (en) * 1982-09-10 1984-03-16 Bugey Maroquinerie Tanneur Process and machine for the treatment of pieces of leather.
US4914764A (en) * 1988-07-14 1990-04-10 Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft Bath pigmentation of leather
RU1801984C (en) * 1991-03-26 1993-03-15 Орловский научно-исследовательский институт легкого машиностроения Machine for applying coating on leather
US5955544A (en) * 1996-06-21 1999-09-21 Bayer Aktiengesellschaft Graft polymers of unsaturated monomers onto modified polyureas, processes for their preparation and their use
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EP1224334A1 (en) 2002-07-24
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