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WO2000078857A1 - Solid aqueous gel comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent and starch, composition comprising same and uses - Google Patents

Solid aqueous gel comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent and starch, composition comprising same and uses Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2000078857A1
WO2000078857A1 PCT/FR2000/001632 FR0001632W WO0078857A1 WO 2000078857 A1 WO2000078857 A1 WO 2000078857A1 FR 0001632 W FR0001632 W FR 0001632W WO 0078857 A1 WO0078857 A1 WO 0078857A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
gel
gel according
starches
chosen
weight
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/FR2000/001632
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Isabelle Bara
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to EP00951580A priority Critical patent/EP1112320A1/en
Priority to KR1020017002061A priority patent/KR20010072740A/en
Priority to MXPA01001680A priority patent/MXPA01001680A/en
Priority to BR0006824-1A priority patent/BR0006824A/en
Priority to JP2001505611A priority patent/JP2003503316A/en
Priority to AU64475/00A priority patent/AU6447500A/en
Priority to CA002340025A priority patent/CA2340025A1/en
Publication of WO2000078857A1 publication Critical patent/WO2000078857A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042Gels
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08LCOMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
    • C08L3/00Compositions of starch, amylose or amylopectin or of their derivatives or degradation products
    • C08L3/02Starch; Degradation products thereof, e.g. dextrin
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08LCOMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
    • C08L3/00Compositions of starch, amylose or amylopectin or of their derivatives or degradation products
    • C08L3/04Starch derivatives, e.g. crosslinked derivatives
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08LCOMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
    • C08L5/00Compositions of polysaccharides or of their derivatives not provided for in groups C08L1/00 or C08L3/00
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a solid aqueous gel, a solid composition with an aqueous continuous phase comprising such a gel and their use in the cosmetic field, in particular for making up the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers.
  • Products in solid form are known in the cosmetic industry. As products of this type, mention may be made, for example, in the field of make-up, of sticks or “sticks” of lipstick, foundation or eye shadow; in the field of skin or lip care, lip repair pencils, depigmenting, make-up removing or moisturizing sticks or "sticks”; in the field of hygiene, deodorant sticks, sticks or foam bars for shaving or for washing the skin.
  • makeup products are generally formulated on the one hand on the basis of an oily phase for reasons of comfort and softness and on the other hand on a pulverulent phase which provides the desired color.
  • This pulverulent phase can comprise pigments and / or fillers and / or nacres.
  • the fatty phase generally comprises waxes and / or oils and / or pasty compounds.
  • the sticks formulated based on waxes have certain disadvantages: they have a fatty character which is not appreciated by the users and they lack freshness on application. In addition, it is difficult to introduce hydrophilic active agents into it.
  • a makeup product in particular, that the removal of the product be carried out in an ideal manner, that is to say, allows, in a simple manner, using the finger or a sponge. or even directly on the skin of the body for example, to take not only the quantity of adequate product (not too much not to lose product unnecessarily but enough to ensure a makeup effect) but also to preserve the integrity of the product at the time of its removal: the product must not be broken by a shearing phenomenon, but the entire product must be removed with the pigments and / or pearlescent agents, and / or possibly the fillers, which ensure the function of the makeup. It is only under this condition that the application of the product can be done in a homogeneous manner and that the makeup obtained will be uniform.
  • aqueous gels comprising pigments: but we often then observe a phenomenon of sedimentation during manufacture, in particular during the cooling phase.
  • the Applicant has unexpectedly discovered that by combining with a hydrophilic gelling agent a compound of a particular nature, namely a starch or its derivatives, it was possible to produce solid aqueous gels optionally comprising pigments and / or nacres, these gels can be easily disintegrated with a finger or a sponge or directly on the skin of the face or body and having remarkable cosmetic qualities.
  • the present invention therefore relates to a solid aqueous gel comprising i) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and ii °) at least one starch or its derivatives.
  • the gels according to the invention do not exude, even at low levels of gelling agent, and they do not necessarily require the intervention of a particular preparation technique. They give the application a feeling of great freshness while retaining good cosmetic properties, in particular of softness.
  • the gels of the invention have excellent application and disintegration qualities.
  • a level of disintegration higher than that of known sticks is obtained, at equivalent hardness.
  • Taking the product is easy, it can be done directly on the body or with the finger or even with a sponge, taking a sufficient amount of product, easy to apply then on the skin evenly, without the need for wetting prior.
  • the gel spreads easily on the skin.
  • the makeup obtained is uniform and homogeneous.
  • the present invention also relates to a solid composition with an aqueous continuous phase comprising a gel as defined above.
  • the present invention also relates to a product for making up the skin or keratin fibers comprising a gel and / or a composition as defined above.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers, consisting in applying to the latter, an aqueous gel and / or a solid composition and / or a make-up product such as defined above.
  • the term “gel or solid composition” means a gel or composition having a hardness defined by a maximum force before rupture ranging from 5 to 50 grams, at room temperature (20-25 ° C.), after penetration by a 2 mm diameter stainless steel mobile in the gel matrix or composition at a thickness of 1 mm at a speed of 1 mm / s and removal of said mobile from the gel matrix or composition at a speed of 2 mm / s; the maximum force before rupture being measured with a texture analyzer of the "TAXT2" type sold by the company RHEO.
  • the maximum force before rupture ranges from 7 to 40 g.
  • the gel according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic gelling agent.
  • gelling agent is meant a compound which, in the presence of a solvent, creates more or less strong intermacromolecular bonds thus inducing a three-dimensional network which freezes said solvent.
  • This hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from polysaccharides, protein derivatives, synthetic or semi-synthetic gels of polyester type, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and their derivatives.
  • - seaweed extracts such as agar-agar, carrageenans (iota, kappa, lambda), alginates, in particular Na or Ca;
  • - gelling agents of animal origin such as protein derivatives, in particular gelatin, beef or fish, caseinates;
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polysaccharides, and more preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is gellan.
  • gellan gum sold under the trade name “Kelcogel F” by the company NUTRASWEET-KELCO or else iota carraghenane sold under the trade names “Seaspen PF 357” or “Viscarin SD 389 "by FMC.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent is preferably present in the gel according to the invention at a concentration of up to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
  • the gel according to the invention also comprises a starch or one of its derivatives.
  • the starches and its derivatives which can be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose units.
  • the number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer).
  • amylose and amylopectin as well as their degree of polymerization, vary according to the botanical origin of the starches.
  • the starches used in the present invention can have, as botanical origin, cereals or tubers.
  • the starches are for example chosen from starches of corn, rice, cassava, potato, wheat, sorghum, peas, native (that is to say unmodified) or modified.
  • modified starches mention may be made of precooked starches, hydrolyzed starches, crosslinked starches, for example with a methylol urea derivative or with octenyl succinic anhydride or also with epichlorohydrin, esterified starches, etherified starches, oxidized starches, refined starches, starches roasted in the presence of acid, or even starches grafted, for example with sodium polyacrylates, starches coated, for example with amino acids, and / or mixtures thereof.
  • Starches are generally in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, the size of the elementary particles of which ranges from 3 to 100 microns. This powder forms a gel when heated.
  • starches and derivatives which are particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made of:
  • the starch is chosen from rice starch crosslinked with epichlorohydrin and / or corn starch.
  • the starch is preferably present in the gel according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.3 to 20%, preferably from 1 to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
  • the gel can also comprise a pulverulent phase which can comprise fillers, mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar, as well as pigments and / or nacres.
  • a pulverulent phase which can comprise fillers, mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar, as well as pigments and / or nacres.
  • fillers it is necessary to understand colorless or white particles, mineral or synthetic, spherical or non-spherical, intended to give body or rigidity to the composition, and / or softness, mattness and uniformity makeup.
  • talc As filler, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of nylon, poly- ⁇ -alanine, polyethylene, Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, boron nitride, oxychloride of bismuth, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, polymethyl methacrylate powders, polyurethane powders, polystyrene powders, polyester powders, synthetic hollow microspheres, non-deformable silicone resin microbeads, zinc and titanium oxides , zirconium or cerium oxides, calcium carbonate precipitate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Si0 2 / TiO 2
  • the fillers may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1-60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 40%, more preferably 1-20%,
  • pigments should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in the medium, that is to say in the gel, intended to color and / or opacify the composition.
  • the pigments can be present in an amount of 0-40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 30% and more preferably in an amount of 1-20%. They can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, of usual size or nanometric. By nanometric size is meant pigments with an average particle size of 5 to 100 nm.
  • the inorganic pigments and nanopigments there may be mentioned titanium, zirconium or cerium dioxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, nanotitanes, ferric blue.
  • the organic pigments there may be mentioned carbon black, and the lacquers commonly used to give the lips and the skin a makeup effect, which are calcium, barium, aluminum or zirconium salts, dyes acids such as halo-acid, azo or anthraquinone dyes.
  • the pigments can in particular be coated with silicone compounds such as PDMS and / or with polymers, in particular polyethylenes or also with fluorinated compounds. We can thus cite SA pigments from Maprecos or PI pigments from Myoshi.
  • the nacres can be present in the gel at a rate of 0-40% by weight, preferably at a rate of 0.1 to 30% and more preferably at a rate of 1-20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel .
  • the gels of the invention also contain a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the mucous membranes and the semi-mucous membranes, and any other skin area of the body and face.
  • a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium that is to say a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the mucous membranes and the semi-mucous membranes, and any other skin area of the body and face.
  • the gels according to the invention can also comprise a floral water such as blueberry water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.
  • a floral water such as blueberry water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.
  • the gels according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble dyes chosen from the usual dyes of the field under consideration such as the disodium salt of culvert, the disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium salt of amaranth, disodium salt of tartrazine, monosodium salt of rhodamine, disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll.
  • the gels according to the invention comprise up to 99.8% by weight, preferably from 20 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, of water.
  • the gels according to the invention can also comprise solvents other than water, for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as alkyl (C- ⁇ -C4) mono, di- or tripropylene glycol, mono, di- or triethylene glycol ether, and mixtures thereof.
  • solvents other than water for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as alkyl (C- ⁇ -C4) mono, di- or tripropylene glycol, mono, di- or triethylene glycol ether, and mixtures thereof.
  • salts which will increase this rigidity.
  • These salts can be chosen from the mono-, di- or trivalent metal salts, and more particularly the alkali and alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium, calcium or magnesium salts.
  • the ions constituting these salts can be chosen, for example, from carbonates, bicarbonates, sulfates, glycerophosphates, borates, chlorides, nitrates, acetates, hydroxides, persulfates as well as the ⁇ -hydroxy acid salts ( citrates, tartrates, lactates, malates) or fruit acids, or the amino acid salts (aspartate, arginate, glycocholate, fumarate).
  • the amount of salt can range from 0.01 to 2% and preferably from 0.1 to 1% of the total weight of the gel.
  • the salt is chosen from calcium, magnesium or strontium nitrate, calcium or magnesium borate, calcium, sodium, magnesium, strontium, neodymium or manganese chloride, sodium sulfate. magnesium or calcium, calcium or magnesium acetate, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the salt is chosen from magnesium chloride and sodium chloride.
  • the gels of the invention can be incorporated into cosmetic compositions and constitute the continuous phase thereof.
  • Such compositions can thus comprise a fatty phase which can for example comprise an oil.
  • oils which can be used mention may be made of oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, such as paraffin oil, petroleum jelly, perhydrosqualene, apricot oil, wheat germ oil, sweet almond, calophyllum, sesame, macadamia, grape seed, rapeseed, coconut, peanut, palm, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal sprouts; esters of fatty acids and of polyol, in particular liquid triglycerides; alcohols; acetylglycerides; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; fatty acid triglycerides; glycerides, fluorinated and perfluorinated oils; synthetic oils such as fatty esters; silicone oils such as volatile silicone oils, polymethylsi
  • the fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention can also comprise other fatty substances, which can be chosen by a person skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to confer on the final composition the desired properties, for example in consistency, texture and / or transfer.
  • additional fatty substances can be waxes, gums and / or pasty fatty substances of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, as well as their mixtures.
  • waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin, petrolatum, petrolatum, Pozokerite, montan wax; beeswax, lanolin and its derivatives; Candellila, Ouricury, Carnauba and Japanese waxes, cocoa butter, cork fiber or sugar cane waxes; hydrogenated oils concrete at 25 ° C, ozokerites, fatty esters and glycerides concrete at 25 ° C; the waxes of polyethylene and the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; concrete hydrogenated oils at 25 ° C; lanolines; concrete fatty esters at 25 ° C; silicone waxes; fluorinated waxes; their mixtures.
  • microcrystalline waxes paraffin, petrolatum, petrolatum, Pozokerite, montan wax
  • beeswax lanolin and its derivatives
  • Candellila Ouricury, Carnauba and Japanese waxes, cocoa butter, cork fiber or sugar cane waxes
  • the fatty phase can be present in proportions ranging, for example, up to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 20% and better still from 0.5 to 10% of the total weight of the composition, these proportions varying according to selected application.
  • Oils or waxes can be introduced into the aqueous phase in the presence of one or more surfactants to ensure better dispersion.
  • compositions according to the invention can therefore also contain one or more O / W surfactants or ionic or nonionic cosurfactants, of HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) greater than or equal to 8, usually used in the cosmetic field.
  • HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
  • the amount of surfactant or cosurfactant preferably ranges from 0.05 to 8% of the total weight of the composition.
  • composition can also comprise any additional compound usually used in the cosmetic field.
  • complementary compounds can be chosen from antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients that are lipophilic or hydrophilic, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, self-tanning compounds such as DHA, sun filters, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the gels and the compositions with an aqueous continuous phase according to the invention can be prepared according to the conventional methods for preparing the sticks, these methods being well known to those skilled in the art.
  • the gels and compositions according to the invention may constitute make-up or care products for the skin, in particular the body, the face and / or the scalp, or keratin fibers, in particular the hair, nails, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, or also mucous membranes, in particular the lips. They can thus constitute body makeup products, foundations, eyeshadows, blushes, concealers, lipsticks, lip contour pencils, mascaras, contour pencils eyes, sticks for dyeing or making up locks of hair.
  • the amounts are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a gellan gel is formed in water while heating at 80 ° for 15 min. Then incorporate the starch at 70 ° C for 20 min, then the salt. We wait 10 min then add the pigments. After 10 min, the triethanolamine is incorporated. After 5 min, it is poured hot.
  • the hardness of this gel is 30 ⁇ 1.5 g.
  • This gel was prepared according to the same method of preparation as in Example 1.
  • the hardness of this gel is 17.4 ⁇ 2 g.

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Abstract

The invention concerns a solid aqueous gel comprising: i) at least a hydrophilic gelling agent and ii) at least a starch or its derivatives. The invention also concerns a solid composition, with continuous aqueous phase, comprising said gel. Said gel can be used in stick or waterpact form and can constitute make-up products for the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or keratinous fibres. It has a hardness providing both easy disintegration and good stick cohesion. Said gel or composition containing it can be applied directly on the skin or with a sponge and has very good cosmetic properties (comfort and softness).

Description

GEL AQUEUX SOLIDE COMPRENANT UN GELIFIANT HYDROPHILE ET DE SOLID AQUEOUS GEL COMPRISING A HYDROPHILIC GEL AND
L'AMIDON, COMPOSITION LE COMPRENANT,STARCH, COMPOSITION INCLUDING IT,
UTILISATIONSUSES
La présente invention concerne un gel aqueux solide, une composition solide à phase continue aqueuse comprenant un tel gel et leur utilisation dans le domaine cosmétique, notamment pour le maquillage de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou des fibres kératiniques.The present invention relates to a solid aqueous gel, a solid composition with an aqueous continuous phase comprising such a gel and their use in the cosmetic field, in particular for making up the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers.
On connaît dans l'industrie cosmétique des produits se présentant sous forme solide. Comme produits de ce type, on peut citer par exemple dans le domaine du maquillage, les bâtons ou "sticks" de rouge à lèvres, de fond de teint ou d'ombre à paupières ; dans le domaine du soin de la peau ou des lèvres, les crayons réparateurs des lèvres, les bâtons ou "sticks" dépigmentants, démaquillants ou hydratants ; dans le domaine de l'hygiène, les sticks déodorants, les sticks ou les pains moussants pour le rasage ou pour le lavage de la peau.Products in solid form are known in the cosmetic industry. As products of this type, mention may be made, for example, in the field of make-up, of sticks or “sticks” of lipstick, foundation or eye shadow; in the field of skin or lip care, lip repair pencils, depigmenting, make-up removing or moisturizing sticks or "sticks"; in the field of hygiene, deodorant sticks, sticks or foam bars for shaving or for washing the skin.
Il est en effet particulièrement intéressant de disposer de produits sous forme de sticks dans la mesure où de tels produits sont très pratiques à utiliser, ils sont facilement transportables, le produit ne risque pas de couler.It is in fact particularly advantageous to have products in the form of sticks insofar as such products are very practical to use, they are easily transportable, the product is not likely to leak.
Par ailleurs, les produits de maquillage sont généralement formulés sur la base d'une part d'une phase grasse pour des raisons de confort et de douceur et d'autre part d'une phase pulvérulente qui apporte la couleur souhaitée. Cette phase pulvérulente peut comprendre des pigments et/ou des charges et/ou des nacres. La phase grasse comprend généralement des cires et/ou des huiles et/ou des composés pâteux.Furthermore, makeup products are generally formulated on the one hand on the basis of an oily phase for reasons of comfort and softness and on the other hand on a pulverulent phase which provides the desired color. This pulverulent phase can comprise pigments and / or fillers and / or nacres. The fatty phase generally comprises waxes and / or oils and / or pasty compounds.
Or, les sticks formulés à base de cires présentent certains inconvénients : ils ont un caractère gras qui n'est pas apprécié par les utilisateurs et ils manquent de fraîcheur à l'application. En outre, il est difficile d'y introduire des actifs hydrophiles.However, the sticks formulated based on waxes have certain disadvantages: they have a fatty character which is not appreciated by the users and they lack freshness on application. In addition, it is difficult to introduce hydrophilic active agents into it.
On cherche donc de plus en plus à faire des sticks de maquillage comprenant une phase aqueuse dans la plus grande concentration possible. Il est bien sûr connu de faire des sticks non gras tels que les sticks déodorants mais ces derniers contiennent rarement des pigments ou des nacres.It is therefore increasingly sought to make makeup sticks comprising an aqueous phase in the greatest possible concentration. It is of course known to make non-greasy sticks such as deodorant sticks but the latter rarely contain pigments or nacres.
Or il s'avère que la présence de pigments ou de nacres au sein de sticks aqueux entraîne des problèmes de délitage du produit, c'est-à-dire de prise du produit : en effet, ces pigments et/ou ces nacres, indispensables aux produits de maquillage pour apporter la couleur, sont des particules solides non solubilisées dans la composition finale. De ce fait elles sont susceptibles d'interférer sur la stabilité de cette dernière.However, it turns out that the presence of pigments or nacres in aqueous sticks leads to problems of disintegration of the product, that is to say of taking the product: in fact, these pigments and / or these nacres, essential make-up products to bring color are solid particles which are not dissolved in the final composition. Therefore they are likely to interfere with the stability of the latter.
Par ailleurs, il est primordial, pour un produit de maquillage en particulier, que le prélèvement du produit se fasse de façon idéale, c'est-à-dire permette, de façon simple, à l'aide du doigt ou d'une éponge ou même directement sur la peau du corps par exemple, de prendre non seulement la quantité de produit adéquate (pas trop pour ne pas perdre de produit inutilement mais suffisamment pour assurer un effet maquillage) mais également de conserver l'intégrité du produit au moment de son prélèvement : il ne faut pas casser le produit par un phénomène de cisaillement mais bien prélever l'ensemble du produit avec les pigments et/ou les nacres, et/ou éventuellement les charges, qui assurent la fonction du maquillage. Ce n'est qu'à cette condition que l'application du produit pourra se faire de façon homogène et que le maquillage obtenu sera uniforme.Furthermore, it is essential, for a makeup product in particular, that the removal of the product be carried out in an ideal manner, that is to say, allows, in a simple manner, using the finger or a sponge. or even directly on the skin of the body for example, to take not only the quantity of adequate product (not too much not to lose product unnecessarily but enough to ensure a makeup effect) but also to preserve the integrity of the product at the time of its removal: the product must not be broken by a shearing phenomenon, but the entire product must be removed with the pigments and / or pearlescent agents, and / or possibly the fillers, which ensure the function of the makeup. It is only under this condition that the application of the product can be done in a homogeneous manner and that the makeup obtained will be uniform.
Des produits qui se délitent bien existent mais ils sont souvent trop mous et finissent par se cisailler lors d'applications répétées ou encore présentent des phénomènes de synérèse au cours du temps, c'est-à-dire que la partie liquide finit par s'exsuder et le produit présente deux phases : une phase solide indélitable et une phase liquide. Le produit ne peut plus assurer sa fonction, à savoir, maquiller, puisqu'il est impossible de prendre les pigments sur le doigt ou sur une éponge.Products which disintegrate well exist but they are often too soft and end up shearing during repeated applications or even present phenomena of syneresis over time, that is to say that the liquid part ends up s' exude and the product has two phases: an indelible solid phase and a liquid phase. The product can no longer ensure its function, namely, make up, since it is impossible to take the pigments on the finger or on a sponge.
Par ailleurs, il existe des gels aqueux comprenant des pigments : mais on observe alors souvent un phénomène de sédimentation lors de la fabrication , notamment pendant la phase de refroidissement.Furthermore, there are aqueous gels comprising pigments: but we often then observe a phenomenon of sedimentation during manufacture, in particular during the cooling phase.
En outre, des gels rigides aqueux sont décrits dans le document WO-A-97/17055. Toutefois, ces gels nécessitent l'emploi d'une concentration assez élevée de gélifiant ou font appel à une technique de préparation particulière, l'extrusion. En outre, ces sticks, du fait de la concentration élevée en gélifiant, manquent de fraîcheur et de douceur lors de l'application sur la peau.In addition, rigid aqueous gels are described in document WO-A-97/17055. However, these gels require the use of a fairly high concentration of gelling agent or use a special preparation technique, extrusion. In addition, these sticks, due to the high concentration of gelling agent, lack freshness and softness when applied to the skin.
Pour remédier à ces problèmes de délitage, il a été proposé d'incorporer dans ces gels des charges de nature chimique particulière, comme la silice ou le Nylon. Toutefois, les produits ainsi obtenus présentent des qualités cosmétiques nettement insuffisantes : ils sont rêches au toucher, procurent des sensations d'inconfort tels que du dessèchement ou des tiraillements une fois que le produit est déposé sur la peau. Ils présentent également des qualités d'application difficiles en présence de pigments.To remedy these disintegration problems, it has been proposed to incorporate in these gels fillers of a particular chemical nature, such as silica or nylon. However, the products thus obtained have clearly insufficient cosmetic qualities: they are rough to the touch, provide feelings of discomfort such as drying or tightness once the product is deposited on the skin. They also have difficult application qualities in the presence of pigments.
Aussi, il subsiste le besoin d'un gel aqueux solide, ne présentant pas les inconvénients de l'art antérieur.Also, there remains the need for a solid aqueous gel, not having the drawbacks of the prior art.
La demanderesse a découvert de façon inattendue qu'en associant à un gélifiant hydrophile un composé de nature particulière, à savoir un amidon ou ses dérivés, il était possible de réaliser des gels aqueux solides comprenant éventuellement des pigments et/ou des nacres, ces gels pouvant se déliter facilement au doigt ou à l'éponge ou encore directement sur la peau du visage ou du corps et présentant des qualités cosmétiques remarquables. La présente invention porte donc sur un gel aqueux solide comprenant i) au moins un gélifiant hydrophile et ii°) au moins un amidon ou ses dérivés.The Applicant has unexpectedly discovered that by combining with a hydrophilic gelling agent a compound of a particular nature, namely a starch or its derivatives, it was possible to produce solid aqueous gels optionally comprising pigments and / or nacres, these gels can be easily disintegrated with a finger or a sponge or directly on the skin of the face or body and having remarkable cosmetic qualities. The present invention therefore relates to a solid aqueous gel comprising i) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and ii °) at least one starch or its derivatives.
Ces gels présentent d'excellentes qualités cosmétiques : le confort et la douceur du film après séchage sur la peau sont améliorés. Ce film est non desséchant et n'apporte pas de sensation de tiraillement de la peau une fois sec.These gels have excellent cosmetic qualities: the comfort and smoothness of the film after drying on the skin are improved. This film is non-drying and does not provide a feeling of tightness of the skin when dry.
Ces gels sont stables dans le temps et à la température. On n'observe aucun phénomène de sédimentation des pigments au cours de la fabrication, notamment lors de la phase de refroidissement. De plus, après avoir été conservés deux mois à température ambiante ou à 45°C, ces gels ne présentent aucun phénomène de synérèse (exsudation) ou encore de déphasage : leur aspect et leur dureté n'ont pas varié.These gels are stable over time and at temperature. No phenomenon of pigment sedimentation is observed during manufacture, in particular during the cooling phase. In addition, after having been stored for two months at room temperature or at 45 ° C, these gels show no phenomenon of syneresis (exudation) or even phase shift: their appearance and hardness have not varied.
Les gels selon l'invention n'exsudent pas, même à de faibles taux de gélifiant, et ils ne nécessitent pas obligatoirement l'intervention d'une technique de préparation particulière. Ils procurent à l'application une sensation de grande fraîcheur tout en conservant de bonnes propriétés cosmétiques, en particulier de douceur.The gels according to the invention do not exude, even at low levels of gelling agent, and they do not necessarily require the intervention of a particular preparation technique. They give the application a feeling of great freshness while retaining good cosmetic properties, in particular of softness.
Les gels de l'invention présentent des qualités d'application et de délitage excellentes. En particulier, grâce à l'association selon l'invention, on obtient, à dureté équivalente, un niveau de délitage supérieur à celui des sticks connus. La prise du produit est facile, elle peut s'effectuer directement sur le corps ou avec le doigt ou encore à l'éponge, en prélevant une quantité suffisante de produit, facile à appliquer ensuite sur la peau de façon homogène, sans nécessiter de mouillage préalable. Le gel s'étale facilement sur la peau. Le maquillage obtenu est uniforme et homogène.The gels of the invention have excellent application and disintegration qualities. In particular, thanks to the combination according to the invention, a level of disintegration higher than that of known sticks is obtained, at equivalent hardness. Taking the product is easy, it can be done directly on the body or with the finger or even with a sponge, taking a sufficient amount of product, easy to apply then on the skin evenly, without the need for wetting prior. The gel spreads easily on the skin. The makeup obtained is uniform and homogeneous.
La présente invention a également pour objet une composition solide à phase continue aqueuse comprenant un gel tel que défini ci-dessus. La présente invention a également pour objet un produit de maquillage de la peau ou des fibres kératiniques comprenant un gel et/ou une composition tels que définis ci-dessus.The present invention also relates to a solid composition with an aqueous continuous phase comprising a gel as defined above. The present invention also relates to a product for making up the skin or keratin fibers comprising a gel and / or a composition as defined above.
La présente invention a encore pour objet un procédé de maquillage de la peau et/ou des muqueuses et/ou des fibres kératiniques, consistant à appliquer sur ces dernières, un gel aqueux et/ou une composition solides et/ou un produit de maquillage tels que définis ci-dessus.The present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers, consisting in applying to the latter, an aqueous gel and / or a solid composition and / or a make-up product such as defined above.
Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par gel ou composition solide, un gel ou composition présentant une dureté définie par une force maximum avant rupture allant de 5 à 50 grammes, à température ambiante (20-25°C), après pénétration par un mobile en inox de 2 mm de diamètre dans la matrice du gel ou composition à une épaisseur de 1 mm à une vitesse de 1 mm/s et retrait dudit mobile de la matrice du gel ou composition à une vitesse de 2 mm/s ; la force maximum avant rupture étant mesurée avec un analyseur de texture du type "TAXT2" commercialisé par la Société RHEO.For the purposes of the present invention, the term “gel or solid composition” means a gel or composition having a hardness defined by a maximum force before rupture ranging from 5 to 50 grams, at room temperature (20-25 ° C.), after penetration by a 2 mm diameter stainless steel mobile in the gel matrix or composition at a thickness of 1 mm at a speed of 1 mm / s and removal of said mobile from the gel matrix or composition at a speed of 2 mm / s; the maximum force before rupture being measured with a texture analyzer of the "TAXT2" type sold by the company RHEO.
De préférence encore, la force maximum avant rupture va de 7 à 40 g.More preferably, the maximum force before rupture ranges from 7 to 40 g.
Le gel selon l'invention comprend un gélifiant hydrophile. Par gélifiant, on entend un composé qui, en présence d'un solvant, crée des liaisons intermacromoléculaires plus ou moins fortes induisant ainsi un réseau tridimensionnel qui fige ledit solvant.The gel according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic gelling agent. By gelling agent is meant a compound which, in the presence of a solvent, creates more or less strong intermacromolecular bonds thus inducing a three-dimensional network which freezes said solvent.
Ce gélifiant hydrophile peut être choisi parmi les polysaccharides, les dérivés de protéines, les gels de synthèse ou d'hémisynthèse de type polyester, les polyacrylates ou polyméthacrylates et leurs dérivés.This hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from polysaccharides, protein derivatives, synthetic or semi-synthetic gels of polyester type, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and their derivatives.
Parmi les polysaccharides, on peut citer - les extraits d'algue tels que l'agar-agar, les carraghénanes (iota, kappa, lambda), les alginates, en particulier de Na ou Ca ;Among the polysaccharides, there may be mentioned - seaweed extracts such as agar-agar, carrageenans (iota, kappa, lambda), alginates, in particular Na or Ca;
- les exsudats de micro-organismes tels que la gomme de xanthane et ses dérivés comme le produit vendu sous la dénomination commerciale "Rhéosan" par la Société Rhodia Chimie, le gellane,- exudates from microorganisms such as xanthan gum and its derivatives such as the product sold under the trade name "Rhéosan" by the company Rhodia Chimie, gellan,
- les extraits de fruits tels que les pectines ;- fruit extracts such as pectins;
- les agents gélifiants d'origine animale comme les dérivés de protéine, en particulier la gélatine, de boeuf ou de poisson, les caséïnates ;- gelling agents of animal origin such as protein derivatives, in particular gelatin, beef or fish, caseinates;
- les polysaccharides possédant une chaîne latérale et 6 sucres neutres tels que décrits dans le document FR-A-2759377,the polysaccharides having a side chain and 6 neutral sugars as described in the document FR-A-2759377,
- et leurs mélanges.- and their mixtures.
Parmi les gels de synthèse ou d'hémisynthèse, on peut citer les copolyesters décrits dans la demande FR-A-2 760 643.Among the synthesis or hemisynthesis gels, mention may be made of the copolyesters described in application FR-A-2 760 643.
De préférence, le gélifiant hydrophile est choisi parmi les polysaccharides, et de préférence encore, le gélifiant hydrophile est le gellane.Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polysaccharides, and more preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is gellan.
Comme produits convenant particulièrement bien à l'invention, on peut citer la gomme de gellane vendue sous la dénomination commerciale « Kelcogel F » par la société NUTRASWEET-KELCO ou encore le iota carraghenane vendu sous les dénominations commerciales « Seaspen PF 357 » ou « Viscarin SD 389 » par la société FMC.As products which are particularly suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned gellan gum sold under the trade name “Kelcogel F” by the company NUTRASWEET-KELCO or else iota carraghenane sold under the trade names “Seaspen PF 357” or “Viscarin SD 389 "by FMC.
Le gélifiant hydrophile est de préférence présent dans le gel selon l'invention à une concentration allant jusqu'à 20% en poids, et de préférence encore de 0,2 à 10%, en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel.The hydrophilic gelling agent is preferably present in the gel according to the invention at a concentration of up to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
Le gel selon l'invention comprend également un amidon ou un de ses dérivés.The gel according to the invention also comprises a starch or one of its derivatives.
Les amidons et ses dérivés utilisables dans la présente invention sont plus particulièrement des macromolécules sous forme de polymères constitué de motifs élémentaires qui sont des unités anhydroglucose. Le nombre de ces motifs et leur assemblage permettent de distinguer l'amylose (polymère linéaire) et l'amylopectine (polymère ramifié). Les proportions relatives d'amylose et d'amylopectine, ainsi que leur degré de polymérisation, varient en fonction de l'origine botanique des amidons.The starches and its derivatives which can be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary according to the botanical origin of the starches.
Les amidons utilisés dans la présente invention peuvent avoir comme origine botanique les céréales ou encore les tubercules. Ainsi, les amidons sont par exemple choisis parmi les amidons de maïs, de riz, de manioc, de pomme de terre, de blé, de sorgho, de pois, natifs (c'est-à-dire non modifiés) ou modifiés. Parmi les amidons modifiés, on peut citer les amidons précuits, les amidons hydrolyses, les amidons réticulés, par exemple par un dérivé de méthylol urée ou par l'anhydride octényl succinique ou encore par l'épichlorhydrine, les amidons estérifiés, les amidons étherifiés, les amidons oxydés, les amidons raffinés, les amidons grillés en présence d'acide, ou encore les amidons greffés, par exemple par des polyacrylates de sodium, les amidons enrobés, par exemple par des aminoacides, et/ou leurs mélanges.The starches used in the present invention can have, as botanical origin, cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are for example chosen from starches of corn, rice, cassava, potato, wheat, sorghum, peas, native (that is to say unmodified) or modified. Among the modified starches, mention may be made of precooked starches, hydrolyzed starches, crosslinked starches, for example with a methylol urea derivative or with octenyl succinic anhydride or also with epichlorohydrin, esterified starches, etherified starches, oxidized starches, refined starches, starches roasted in the presence of acid, or even starches grafted, for example with sodium polyacrylates, starches coated, for example with amino acids, and / or mixtures thereof.
Les amidons se présentent généralement sous la forme d'une poudre blanche, insoluble dans l'eau froide, dont la taille des particules élémentaires va de 3 à 100 microns. Cette poudre forme un gel lorsqu'elle est chauffée.Starches are generally in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, the size of the elementary particles of which ranges from 3 to 100 microns. This powder forms a gel when heated.
Parmi les amidons et dérivés convenant particulièrement à l'invention, on peut citer :Among the starches and derivatives which are particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made of:
- l'amidon modifié (amylopectine/amylose réticulée par épichlorhydrine) vendu sous la dénomination commerciale « Amidon de riz insoluble non mucilagineux » par la société REMY,- the modified starch (amylopectin / amylose crosslinked with epichlorohydrin) sold under the trade name "Insoluble non-mucilaginous rice starch" by the company REMY,
- l'amidon de maïs cireux (amylopectine essentiellement) natif vendu sous la dénomination commerciale « WAXY MAIS » par BLATTMANN,- the native waxy corn starch (mainly amylopectin) sold under the trade name "WAXY BUT" by BLATTMANN,
- l'amidon de blé modifié et précuit vendu sous la dénomination commerciale « MIDSOL KRISP » par MIDWEST GRAIN PRODUCTS, - l'amidon de blé modifié et raffiné vendu sous la dénomination commerciale « MIDSOL ADHERE » par MIDWEST GRAIN PRODUCTS,- modified and precooked wheat starch sold under the trade name "MIDSOL KRISP" by MIDWEST GRAIN PRODUCTS, - modified and refined wheat starch sold under the trade name "MIDSOL ADHERE" by MIDWEST GRAIN PRODUCTS,
- la poudre d'amidon de blé modifiée vendue sous la dénomination commerciale « MIDSOL 35 » par MIDWEST GRAIN PRODUCTS, - l'amidon de pomme de terre modifié vendu sous la dénomination commerciale « PERFECTAGEL MPT » par AVEBE,- modified wheat starch powder sold under the trade name "MIDSOL 35" by MIDWEST GRAIN PRODUCTS, - modified potato starch sold under the trade name "PERFECTAGEL MPT" by AVEBE,
- le produit « amidon de mais B » vendu par ROQUETTE FRERES, le produit « amidon de mais » vendu par NATIONAL STARCH.- the product "corn starch B" sold by ROQUETTE FRERES, the product "corn starch" sold by NATIONAL STARCH.
Dans une forme particulièrement avantageuse de l'invention, l'amidon est choisi parmi l'amidon de riz réticulé par l'épichlorhydrine et/ou l'amidon de maïs.In a particularly advantageous form of the invention, the starch is chosen from rice starch crosslinked with epichlorohydrin and / or corn starch.
L'amidon est de préférence présent dans le gel selon l'invention à une teneur allant de 0,3 à 20 %, de préférence de 1 à 10 %, en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel.The starch is preferably present in the gel according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.3 to 20%, preferably from 1 to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
Le gel peut également comprendre une phase pulvérulente qui peut comprendre des charges, minérales ou de synthèse, lamellaires ou non lamellaires, ainsi que des pigments et/ou des nacres.The gel can also comprise a pulverulent phase which can comprise fillers, mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar, as well as pigments and / or nacres.
Par charges, il faut comprendre des particules incolores ou blanches, minérales ou de synthèse, sphériques ou non sphériques, destinées à donner du corps ou de la rigidité à la composition, et/ou de la douceur, de la matité et de l'uniformité au maquillage.By fillers, it is necessary to understand colorless or white particles, mineral or synthetic, spherical or non-spherical, intended to give body or rigidity to the composition, and / or softness, mattness and uniformity makeup.
Comme charge, on peut citer le talc, le mica, la silice, le kaolin, les poudres de Nylon, de poly-β-alanine, de polyéthylène, le Téflon, la lauroyl-lysine, le nitrure de bore, l'oxychlorure de bismuth, les poudres de polymères de tétrafluoroéthylène, les poudres de polyméthylméthacrylate, les poudres de polyuréthanne, les poudres de polystyrène, les poudres de polyester, les microsphères creuses synthétiques, les microbilles de résine de silicone non déformables, les oxydes de zinc et de titane, les oxydes de zirconium ou de cérium, le carbonate de calcium précipité, le carbonate et l'hydrocarbonate de magnésium, l'hydroxyapatite, les microsphères de silice creuses, les microcapsules de verre ou de céramique, les savons métalliques dérivés d'acides organiques carboxyliques ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 12 à 18 atomes de carbone, comme le stéarate de zinc, de magnésium ou de lithium, le laurate de zinc, le myristate de magnésium, les composés Si02/TiO2/ Si02, Ti02/Ce02/SiO2, ou encore TiO2/ZnO/Talc, les polymères de polyéthylène terephtalate/polyméthacrylate en forme de paillettes.As filler, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of nylon, poly-β-alanine, polyethylene, Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, boron nitride, oxychloride of bismuth, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, polymethyl methacrylate powders, polyurethane powders, polystyrene powders, polyester powders, synthetic hollow microspheres, non-deformable silicone resin microbeads, zinc and titanium oxides , zirconium or cerium oxides, calcium carbonate precipitate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Si0 2 / TiO 2 / Si0 2 , Ti0 2 / Ce0 2 / SiO 2 compounds, or also TiO 2 / ZnO / Talc, polymers of polyethylene terephthalate / polymethacrylate in the form of flakes.
Les charges peuvent être présentes dans la composition à raison de 0,1-60 % en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel, de préférence à raison de 0,1 à 40%, de préférence encore 1-20%,The fillers may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1-60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 40%, more preferably 1-20%,
Par pigments, il faut comprendre des particules blanches ou colorées, minérales ou organiques, insolubles dans le milieu, c'est-à-dire dans le gel, destinées à colorer et/ou opacifier la composition.The term “pigments” should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in the medium, that is to say in the gel, intended to color and / or opacify the composition.
Les pigments peuvent être présents à raison de 0-40 % en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel, de préférence à raison de 0,1 à 30% et de préférence encore à raison de 1-20 %. Ils peuvent être blancs ou colorés, minéraux et/ou organiques, de taille usuelle ou nanométrique. Par taille nanométrique, on entend des pigments dont la taille moyenne des particules va de 5 à 100 nm.The pigments can be present in an amount of 0-40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 30% and more preferably in an amount of 1-20%. They can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, of usual size or nanometric. By nanometric size is meant pigments with an average particle size of 5 to 100 nm.
On peut citer, parmi les pigments et les nanopigments minéraux, les dioxydes de titane, de zirconium ou de cérium, ainsi que les oxydes de zinc, de fer ou de chrome, les nanotitanes, le bleu ferrique. Parmi les pigments organiques, on peut citer le noir de carbone, et les laques couramment employées pour conférer aux lèvres et à la peau un effet de maquillage, qui sont des sels de calcium, de baryum, d'aluminium ou de zirconium, de colorants acides tels que les colorants halogéno-acides, azoïques ou anthraquinoniques. Les pigments peuvent notamment être enrobés par des composés siliconés tels que des PDMS et/ou par des polymères, notamment des polyéthylènes ou encore par des composés fluorés. On peut ainsi citer les pigments SA de Maprecos ou les pigments PI de Myoshi.Among the inorganic pigments and nanopigments, there may be mentioned titanium, zirconium or cerium dioxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, nanotitanes, ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, there may be mentioned carbon black, and the lacquers commonly used to give the lips and the skin a makeup effect, which are calcium, barium, aluminum or zirconium salts, dyes acids such as halo-acid, azo or anthraquinone dyes. The pigments can in particular be coated with silicone compounds such as PDMS and / or with polymers, in particular polyethylenes or also with fluorinated compounds. We can thus cite SA pigments from Maprecos or PI pigments from Myoshi.
Par nacres, il faut comprendre des particules irisées qui réfléchissent la lumière, insolubles dans le milieu, c'est-à-dire dans le gel.By nacres, it is necessary to understand iridescent particles which reflect light, insoluble in the medium, that is to say in the gel.
Les nacres peuvent être présentes dans le gel à raison de 0-40% en poids, de préférence à raison de 0,1 à 30% et de préférence encore à raison de 1-20% en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel.The nacres can be present in the gel at a rate of 0-40% by weight, preferably at a rate of 0.1 to 30% and more preferably at a rate of 1-20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel .
Parmi les nacres envisageables, on peut citer la nacre naturelle, le mica recouvert d'oxyde de titane, d'oxyde de fer, de pigment naturel ou d'oxychlorure de bismuth ainsi que le mica titane coloré.Among the possible nacres, mention may be made of natural mother-of-pearl, mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride as well as colored titanium mica.
Les gels de l'invention contiennent en outre un milieu cosmétiquement ou physiologiquement acceptable, c'est-à-dire un milieu compatible avec toutes les matières kératiniques telles que la peau, les ongles, les cheveux, les cils et sourcils, les muqueuses et les semi-muqueuses, et toute autre zone cutanée du corps et du visage.The gels of the invention also contain a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the mucous membranes and the semi-mucous membranes, and any other skin area of the body and face.
Les gels selon l'invention peuvent également comprendre une eau florale telle que l'eau de bleuet et/ou une eau minérale telle que l'eau de VITTEL, l'eau de LUCAS ou l'eau de LA ROCHE POSAY et/ou une eau thermale.The gels according to the invention can also comprise a floral water such as blueberry water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.
Les gels selon l'invention peuvent également comprendre des colorants hydrosolubles choisis parmi les colorants usuels du domaine considéré tels que le sel disodique de ponceau, le sel disodique du vert d'alizarine, le jaune de quinoléine, le sel trisodique d'amarante, le sel disodique de tartrazine, le sel monosodique de rhodamine, le sel disodique de fuchsine, la xanthophylle. De préférence, les gels selon l'invention comprennent jusqu'à 99,8% en poids, de préférence de 20 à 99% en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel, d'eau.The gels according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble dyes chosen from the usual dyes of the field under consideration such as the disodium salt of culvert, the disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium salt of amaranth, disodium salt of tartrazine, monosodium salt of rhodamine, disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll. Preferably, the gels according to the invention comprise up to 99.8% by weight, preferably from 20 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, of water.
Les gels selon l'invention peuvent également comprendre des solvants autres que l'eau comme par exemple les alcools primaires tels que l'éthanol et l'isopropanol, les glycols tels que le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, le dipropylène glycol, le diéthylène glycol, les éthers de glycol tel que les alkyl(C-ι-C4)éther de mono, di- ou tripropylène glycol, mono, di- ou triéthylène glycol, et leurs mélanges.The gels according to the invention can also comprise solvents other than water, for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as alkyl (C-ι-C4) mono, di- or tripropylene glycol, mono, di- or triethylene glycol ether, and mixtures thereof.
II est possible de modifier la rigidité des gels selon l'invention en y ajoutant un ou plusieurs sels qui vont augmenter cette rigidité. Ces sels peuvent être choisis parmi les sels des métaux mono-, di- ou trivalents, et plus particulièrement les sels de métal alcalin et alcalino-terreux et en particulier les sels de sodium, de calcium ou de magnésium. Les ions constituant ces sels peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi les carbonates, les bicarbonates, les sulfates, les glycérophosphates, les borates, les chlorures, les nitrates, les acétates, les hydroxydes, les persulfates ainsi que les sels d'α-hydroxyacides (citrates, tartrates, lactates, malates) ou d'acides de fruits, ou encore les sels d'acides aminés (aspartate, arginate, glycocholate, fumarate). La quantité de sel peut aller de 0,01 à 2 % et de préférence de 0,1 à 1 % du poids total du gel.It is possible to modify the rigidity of the gels according to the invention by adding one or more salts which will increase this rigidity. These salts can be chosen from the mono-, di- or trivalent metal salts, and more particularly the alkali and alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium, calcium or magnesium salts. The ions constituting these salts can be chosen, for example, from carbonates, bicarbonates, sulfates, glycerophosphates, borates, chlorides, nitrates, acetates, hydroxides, persulfates as well as the α-hydroxy acid salts ( citrates, tartrates, lactates, malates) or fruit acids, or the amino acid salts (aspartate, arginate, glycocholate, fumarate). The amount of salt can range from 0.01 to 2% and preferably from 0.1 to 1% of the total weight of the gel.
De préférence, le sel est choisi parmi le nitrate de calcium, de magnésium ou de strontium, le borate de calcium ou de magnésium, le chlorure de calcium, de sodium, de magnésium, de strontium, de néodyme ou de manganèse, le sulfate de magnésium ou de calcium, l'acétate de calcium ou de magnésium, et leurs mélanges. De préférence encore, le sel est choisi parmi le chlorure de magnésium et le chlorure de sodium.Preferably, the salt is chosen from calcium, magnesium or strontium nitrate, calcium or magnesium borate, calcium, sodium, magnesium, strontium, neodymium or manganese chloride, sodium sulfate. magnesium or calcium, calcium or magnesium acetate, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the salt is chosen from magnesium chloride and sodium chloride.
Les gels de l'invention peuvent être incorporés au sein de compositions cosmétiques et en constituer la phase continue. De telles compositions peuvent ainsi comprendre une phase grasse qui peut par exemple comprendre une huile. Parmi les huiles utilisables, on peut citer les huiles d'origine animale, végétale ou minérale, telles que l'huile de paraffine, de vaseline, le perhydrosqualène, l'huile d'abricot, l'huile de germes de blé, d'amande douce, de calophyllum, de sésame, de macadamia, de pépins de raisin, de colza, de coprah, d'arachide, de palme, de ricin, d'avocat, de jojoba, d'olive ou de germes de céréales; des esters d'acides gras et de polyol, en particulier les triglycérides liquides; des alcools; des acétylglycérides; des octanoates, décanoates ou ricinoléates d'alcools ou de polyalcools; des triglycérides d'acides gras; des glycérides, les huiles fluorées et perfluorées; les huiles de synthèse telles que les esters gras; les huiles de silicone telles que les huiles de silicone volatile, les polyméthylsiloxanes, les polyméthylphénylsiloxanes, les polysiloxanes modifiés par des acides gras, des alcools gras ou des polyoxyalkylènes, les silicones fluorées et les huiles perfluorées.The gels of the invention can be incorporated into cosmetic compositions and constitute the continuous phase thereof. Such compositions can thus comprise a fatty phase which can for example comprise an oil. Among the oils which can be used, mention may be made of oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, such as paraffin oil, petroleum jelly, perhydrosqualene, apricot oil, wheat germ oil, sweet almond, calophyllum, sesame, macadamia, grape seed, rapeseed, coconut, peanut, palm, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal sprouts; esters of fatty acids and of polyol, in particular liquid triglycerides; alcohols; acetylglycerides; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; fatty acid triglycerides; glycerides, fluorinated and perfluorinated oils; synthetic oils such as fatty esters; silicone oils such as volatile silicone oils, polymethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorinated silicones and perfluorinated oils.
La phase grasse des compositions selon l'invention peut comprendre en outre d'autres corps gras, qui peuvent être choisis par l'homme du métier sur base de ses connaissances générales, de manière à conférer à la composition finale les propriétés souhaitées, par exemple en consistance, en texture et/ou en transfert. Ces corps gras additionnels peuvent être des cires, des gommes et/ou des corps gras pâteux d'origine animale, végétale, minérale ou synthétique, ainsi que leurs mélanges.The fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention can also comprise other fatty substances, which can be chosen by a person skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to confer on the final composition the desired properties, for example in consistency, texture and / or transfer. These additional fatty substances can be waxes, gums and / or pasty fatty substances of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, as well as their mixtures.
On peut notamment citer :We can notably cite:
- les gommes de silicones,- silicone gums,
- les cires d'origine animale, végétale, minérale ou synthétique telles que les cires microcristallines, la paraffine, le pétrolatum, la vaseline, Pozokérite, la cire de montan; la cire d'abeilles, la lanoline et ses dérivés; les cires de Candellila, d'Ouricury, de Carnauba, du Japon, le beurre de cacao, les cires de fibres de lièges ou de canne à sucre; les huiles hydrogénées concrètes à 25°C, les ozokérites, les esters gras et les glycérides concrets à 25°C; les cires de polyéthylène et les cires obtenues par synthèse de Fischer-Tropsch; des huiles hydrogénées concrètes à 25°C; des lanolines; des esters gras concrets à 25°C; les cires de silicone; les cires fluorées; leurs mélanges.- animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin, petrolatum, petrolatum, Pozokerite, montan wax; beeswax, lanolin and its derivatives; Candellila, Ouricury, Carnauba and Japanese waxes, cocoa butter, cork fiber or sugar cane waxes; hydrogenated oils concrete at 25 ° C, ozokerites, fatty esters and glycerides concrete at 25 ° C; the waxes of polyethylene and the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; concrete hydrogenated oils at 25 ° C; lanolines; concrete fatty esters at 25 ° C; silicone waxes; fluorinated waxes; their mixtures.
La phase grasse peut être présente dans des proportions allant, par exemple, jusqu'à 30 %, de préférence de 0,1 à 20% et mieux de 0,5 à 10 % du poids total de la composition, ces proportions variant selon l'application choisie.The fatty phase can be present in proportions ranging, for example, up to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 20% and better still from 0.5 to 10% of the total weight of the composition, these proportions varying according to selected application.
Les huiles ou les cires peuvent être introduites dans la phase aqueuse en présence d'un ou de plusieurs tensioactifs pour assurer une meilleure dispersion.Oils or waxes can be introduced into the aqueous phase in the presence of one or more surfactants to ensure better dispersion.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent donc également contenir un ou plusieurs tensioactifs H/E ou cotensio-actifs ioniques ou non ioniques , de HLB (hydrophile-lipophile balance) supérieur ou égal à 8, habituellement utilisés dans le domaine cosmétique. Lorsqu'il est présent, la quantité d'agent tensioactif ou de cotensio-actif va de préférence de 0,05 à 8 % du poids total de la composition.The compositions according to the invention can therefore also contain one or more O / W surfactants or ionic or nonionic cosurfactants, of HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) greater than or equal to 8, usually used in the cosmetic field. When it is present, the amount of surfactant or cosurfactant preferably ranges from 0.05 to 8% of the total weight of the composition.
La composition peut comprendre en outre tout composé complémentaire usuellement utilisé dans le domaine cosmétique. Ces composés complémentaires peuvent être choisis parmi les antioxydants, les huiles essentielles, les conservateurs, les actifs cosmétiques ou pharmaceutiques lipophiles ou hydrophiles, les hydratants, les vitamines, les acides gras essentiels, les sphingolipides, les composés auto-bronzants tels que la DHA, les filtres solaires, les parfums, et leurs mélanges.The composition can also comprise any additional compound usually used in the cosmetic field. These complementary compounds can be chosen from antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients that are lipophilic or hydrophilic, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, self-tanning compounds such as DHA, sun filters, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.
Bien entendu l'homme du métier veillera à choisir ce ou ces éventuels composés complémentaires, et/ou leur quantité, de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses du gel et/ou de la composition selon l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par l'adjonction envisagée. Les gels et les compositions à phase continue aqueuse selon l'invention peuvent être préparés selon les méthodes de préparation classiques des sticks, ces méthodes étant bien connues de l'homme du métier.Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the gel and / or of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the proposed addition. The gels and the compositions with an aqueous continuous phase according to the invention can be prepared according to the conventional methods for preparing the sticks, these methods being well known to those skilled in the art.
Les gels et les compositions selon l'invention peuvent constituer des produits de maquillage ou de soin de la peau, en particulier du corps, du visage et/ou du cuir chevelu, ou des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cheveux, des ongles, des cils et/ou des sourcils, ou encore des muqueuses, en particulier des lèvres. Ils peuvent ainsi constituer des produits de maquillage du corps, des fonds de teints, des ombres à paupières, des fards à joues, des anti-cernes, des rouges à lèvres, des crayons du contour des lèvres, des mascaras, des crayons du contour des yeux, des sticks pour la teinture ou le maquillage de mèches de cheveux.The gels and compositions according to the invention may constitute make-up or care products for the skin, in particular the body, the face and / or the scalp, or keratin fibers, in particular the hair, nails, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, or also mucous membranes, in particular the lips. They can thus constitute body makeup products, foundations, eyeshadows, blushes, concealers, lipsticks, lip contour pencils, mascaras, contour pencils eyes, sticks for dyeing or making up locks of hair.
L'invention est illustrée plus en détails dans les exemples suivants.The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples.
Dans les exemples suivants, les quantités sont données en pourcentage en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.In the following examples, the amounts are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
EXEMPLE 1EXAMPLE 1
La Demandresse a réalisé le gel suivant :La Demandresse carried out the following freeze:
-Gomme de gellane vendue sous la dénomination commerciale « Kelcogel F » de NUTRASWEET-KELCO 0,5%-Gellan gum sold under the trade name "Kelcogel F" from NUTRASWEET-KELCO 0.5%
-Amidon : amylopectine/ amylose réticulé par épichlorhydrine vendu sous la dénomination commerciale Amidon de riz insoluble non muciiagineux par REMY 4% -Glycérine 7%- Starch: amylopectin / amylose crosslinked with epichlorohydrin sold under the trade name Insoluble non-muciiaginous rice starch by REMY 4% -Glycerin 7%
- Conservateurs 0,75%- Preservatives 0.75%
- NaCI 1%- NaCI 1%
-Triéthanolamine 0,05%-Triethanolamine 0.05%
- Pigments 7%- Pigments 7%
-Eau qsp 100%-Water 100%
Préparation : on forme un gel de gellane danss l'eau en chauffant à 80° pendant 15 min. Puis on incorpore l'amidon à 70°C pendant 20 min, puis le sel. On attend 10 min puis on ajoute les pigments. Après 10 min, on incorpore la triéthanolamine. Après 5min, on coule à chaud.Preparation: a gellan gel is formed in water while heating at 80 ° for 15 min. Then incorporate the starch at 70 ° C for 20 min, then the salt. We wait 10 min then add the pigments. After 10 min, the triethanolamine is incorporated. After 5 min, it is poured hot.
On obtient une formule de bonne cohésion, avec un bon délitage. A l'application sur la peau, la sensation d'effet frais est très agréable, le dépôt est homogène.We obtain a formula of good cohesion, with a good crumbling. When applied to the skin, the sensation of fresh effect is very pleasant, the deposit is uniform.
La dureté de ce gel, mesurée comme décrit ci-dessus, est de 30 ± 1 ,5 g.The hardness of this gel, measured as described above, is 30 ± 1.5 g.
EXEMPLE 2 :EXAMPLE 2:
La Demanderesse a réalisé le gel suivant :The Applicant has produced the following gel:
-Gomme de gellane vendue sous la dénomination commerciale « Kelcogel F » de NUTRASWEET-KELCO 0,5% -« Amidon de maïs B » de Roquette Frères 2%-Gellan gum sold under the trade name "Kelcogel F" from NUTRASWEET-KELCO 0.5% - “Corn starch B” from Roquette Frères 2%
-propylène glycol 7%-propylene glycol 7%
- Conservateurs 0,75%- Preservatives 0.75%
- MgCI2 0,1%- MgCI 2 0.1%
- Pigments 7%- Pigments 7%
-Eau qsp 100%-Water 100%
Ce gel a été préparé selon la même méthode de préparation que dans l'exemple 1.This gel was prepared according to the same method of preparation as in Example 1.
On obtient une formule de bonne cohésion, avec un bon délitage. A l'application sur la peau, la sensation d'effet frais est très agréable, le dépôt est homogène.We obtain a formula of good cohesion, with a good crumbling. When applied to the skin, the sensation of fresh effect is very pleasant, the deposit is uniform.
La dureté de ce gel, mesurée comme décrit ci-dessus, est de 17,4 ± 2 g. The hardness of this gel, measured as described above, is 17.4 ± 2 g.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Gel aqueux solide comprenant i) au moins un gélifiant hydrophile et ii°) au moins un amidon ou ses dérivés, ledit gel présentant une dureté définie par une force maximum avant rupture allant de 5 à 50 grammes, à température ambiante, après pénétration par un mobile en inox de 2 mm de diamètre dans la matrice du gel à une épaisseur de 1 mm à une vitesse de 1 mm/s et retrait dudit mobile de la matrice du gel à une vitesse de 2 mm/s.1. Aqueous solid gel comprising i) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and ii °) at least one starch or its derivatives, said gel having a hardness defined by a maximum force before rupture ranging from 5 to 50 grams, at room temperature, after penetration by a 2 mm diameter stainless steel mobile in the gel matrix at a thickness of 1 mm at a speed of 1 mm / s and removal of said mobile from the gel matrix at a speed of 2 mm / s.
2 Gel selon la revendication 1 , caractérisé en ce que le gélifiant hydrophile est choisi parmi les polysaccharides, les dérivés de protéines, les gels de synthèse ou d'hémisynthèse de type polyester, en particulier sulfonique, les polyacrylates ou polyméthacrylates et leurs dérivés.2 Gel according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polysaccharides, protein derivatives, synthetic or semi-synthetic gels of polyester type, in particular sulfonic, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and their derivatives.
3. Gel selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que le gélifiant hydrophile est un polysaccharide choisi parmi :3. Gel according to claim 2, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is a polysaccharide chosen from:
- les extraits d'algue tels que l'agar-agar, les carraghénanes, les alginates, en particulier de Na ou Ca;- extracts of algae such as agar-agar, carrageenans, alginates, in particular of Na or Ca;
- les exsudats de micro-organismes tels que la gomme de xanthane et ses dérivés ou encore la gomme de gellane,- exudates from microorganisms such as xanthan gum and its derivatives or gellan gum,
- les extraits de fruits tels que les pectines ;- fruit extracts such as pectins;
- les agents gélifiants d'origine animale comme les dérivés de protéine, en particulier la gélatine, de boeuf ou de poisson, les caséïnates ;- gelling agents of animal origin such as protein derivatives, in particular gelatin, beef or fish, caseinates;
- les polysaccharides possédant une chaîne latérale et 6 sucres neutres, - et leurs mélanges.- polysaccharides having a side chain and 6 neutral sugars, - and their mixtures.
4. Gel selon la revendication 3, caractérisé en ce que le gélifiant hydrophile est le gellane.4. Gel according to claim 3, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is gellan.
5. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le gélifiant hydrophile est présent à une concentration allant jusqu'à 20%, de préférence de 0,2 à 10%, en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel. 5. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is present at a concentration of up to 20%, preferably from 0.2 to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
6. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que l'amidon est choisi parmi les amidons de maïs, de riz, de manioc, de pomme de terre, de blé, de sorgho, de pois, natifs ou modifiés.6. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the starch is chosen from starches of corn, rice, cassava, potato, wheat, sorghum, peas, native or modified .
7. Gel selon la revendication précédente, caractérisé en ce que les dérivés d'amidon modifiés sont choisis parmi les amidons précuits, les amidons hydrolyses, les amidons réticulés, par exemple par un dérivé de méthylol urée ou par l'anhydride octényl succinique ou encore par l'épichlorhydrine, les amidons estérifiés, les amidons étherifiés, les amidons oxydés, les amidons raffinés, les amidons grillés en présence d'acide, ou encore les amidons greffés, par exemple par des polyacrylates de sodium, les amidons enrobés, par exemple par des aminoacides, et/ou leurs mélanges.7. Gel according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the modified starch derivatives are chosen from precooked starches, hydrolyzed starches, crosslinked starches, for example by a methylol urea derivative or by octenyl succinic anhydride or else by epichlorohydrin, esterified starches, etherified starches, oxidized starches, refined starches, starches roasted in the presence of acid, or even grafted starches, for example with sodium polyacrylates, coated starches, for example with amino acids, and / or mixtures thereof.
8. Gel selon la revendication précédente, caractérisé en ce que l'amidon est choisi parmi l'amidon de riz réticulé par l'épichlorhydrine et/ou l'amidon de maïs.8. Gel according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the starch is chosen from rice starch crosslinked with epichlorohydrin and / or corn starch.
9. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes caractérisé en ce que l'amidon est présent à une teneur allant de 0,3 à 20 %, de préférence de 1 à 10 %, en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel.9. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the starch is present at a content ranging from 0.3 to 20%, preferably from 1 to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel .
10. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend en outre une phase pulvérulente qui peut comprendre des charges, des pigments et/ou des nacres.10. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises a pulverulent phase which can comprise fillers, pigments and / or nacres.
11. Gel selon la revendication précédente, caractérisé en ce que les charges sont choisies parmi le talc, le mica, la silice, le kaolin, les poudres de Nylon, de poly-β- alanine, de polyéthylène, le Téflon, la lauroyl-lysine, le nitrure de bore, l'oxychlorure de bismuth, les poudres de polymères de tétrafluoroéthylène, les poudres de polyméthylméthacrylate, les poudres de polyuréthanne, les poudres de polystyrène, les poudres de polyester, les microsphères creuses synthétiques, les microbilles de résine de silicone non déformables, les oxydes de zinc et de titane, les oxydes de zirconium ou de cérium, le carbonate de calcium précipité, le carbonate et l'hydrocarbonate de magnésium, l'hydroxyapatite, les microsphères de silice creuses, les microcapsules de verre ou de céramique, les savons métalliques dérivés d'acides organiques carboxyliques ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 12 à 18 atomes de carbone, comme le stéarate de zinc, de magnésium ou de lithium, le laurate de zinc, le myristate de magnésium, les composés SiO2/Ti02/ Si02, Ti02/Ce02/Si02, ou encore Ti02/ZnO/Talc, les polymères de polyéthylène terephtalate/polyméthacrylate en forme de paillettes.11. Gel according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fillers are chosen from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, nylon powders, poly-β-alanine, polyethylene, Teflon, lauroyl- lysine, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, polymethylmethacrylate powders, polyurethane powders, polystyrene powders, polyester powders, synthetic hollow microspheres, resin microbeads non-deformable silicone, oxides of zinc and titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbon, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from acids organic carboxylic compounds having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, SiO 2 / Ti0 2 compounds / Si0 2 , Ti0 2 / Ce0 2 / Si0 2 , or also Ti0 2 / ZnO / Talc, polymers of polyethylene terephthalate / polymethacrylate in the form of flakes.
12. Gel selon la revendication précédente, caractérisé en ce que les charges sont présentes à une teneur allant jusqu'à 60% en poids, de préférence de 0,1 à 40%, en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel.12. Gel according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fillers are present at a content of up to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 40%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
13. Gel selon la revendication 10, caractérisé en ce que les pigments sont choisis parmi les dioxydes de titane, de zirconium ou de cérium, les oxydes de zinc, de fer ou de chrome, les nanotitanes, le bleu ferrique, le noir de carbone, les sels de calcium, de baryum, d'aluminium ou de zirconium, de colorants acides tels que les colorants halogéno-acides, azoïques ou anthraquinoniques, les pigments enrobés par des composés silicones tels que des polydiméthylsiloxanes et/ou par des polymères, notamment des polyéthylenes, ou encore par des composés fluorés, et/ou leurs mélanges.13. Gel according to claim 10, characterized in that the pigments are chosen from titanium, zirconium or cerium dioxides, zinc, iron or chromium oxides, nanotitanes, ferric blue, carbon black , calcium, barium, aluminum or zirconium salts, acid dyes such as halo-acid, azo or anthraquinone dyes, pigments coated with silicone compounds such as polydimethylsiloxanes and / or by polymers, in particular polyethylenes, or also with fluorinated compounds, and / or mixtures thereof.
14. Gel selon la revendication précédente, caractérisé en ce que les pigments sont présents à une teneur allant jusqu'à 40%, en poids, de préférence de 0,1 à 30%, en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel.14. Gel according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the pigments are present at a content of up to 40%, by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
15. Gel selon la revendication 10, caractérisé en ce que les nacres sont choisies parmi la nacre naturelle, le mica recouvert d'oxyde de titane, d'oxyde de fer, de pigment naturel ou d'oxychlorure de bismuth ainsi que le mica titane coloré. 15. Gel according to claim 10, characterized in that the nacres are chosen from natural mother-of-pearl, mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride as well as titanium mica colored.
16. Gel selon la revendication précédente, caractérisé en ce que les nacres sont présentes à une teneur allant jusqu'à 40%, en poids, de préférence de 0,1 à 30%, en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel.16. Gel according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the nacres are present at a content ranging up to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
17. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend en outre un sel.17. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a salt.
18. Gel selon la revendication précédente, caractérisé en ce que le sel est choisi parmi le nitrate de calcium, de magnésium ou de strontium, le borate de calcium ou de magnésium, le chlorure de calcium, de sodium, de magnésium, de strontium, de néodyme ou de manganèse, le sulfate de magnésium ou de calcium, l'acétate de calcium ou de magnésium, et leurs mélanges.18. Gel according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the salt is chosen from calcium nitrate, magnesium or strontium, calcium or magnesium borate, calcium chloride, sodium, magnesium, strontium, neodymium or manganese, magnesium or calcium sulfate, calcium or magnesium acetate, and mixtures thereof.
19. Gel selon la revendication précédente, caractérisé en ce que le sel est choisi parmi le chlorure de magnésium et le chlorure de sodium.19. Gel according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the salt is chosen from magnesium chloride and sodium chloride.
20. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend en outre un milieu cosmétiquement ou physiologiquement acceptable.20. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium.
21. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend en outre un colorant hydrosoluble.21. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a water-soluble dye.
22. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend en outre un solvant choisi parmi l'éthanol, l'isopropanol, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, le dipropylène glycol, le diéthylène glycol, les éthers de glycol, et leurs mélanges.22. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises a solvent chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, and mixtures thereof.
23. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend jusqu'à 99,8% en poids, de préférence de 20 à 99% en poids, par rapport au poids total du gel, d'eau. 23. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises up to 99.8% by weight, preferably from 20 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, of water .
24. Gel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend en outre un composé complémentaire choisi parmi les antioxydants, les huiles essentielles, les conservateurs, les actifs cosmétiques ou pharmaceutiques lipophiles ou hydrophiles, les hydratants, les vitamines, les acides gras essentiels, les sphingolipides, les composés auto-bronzants, les filtres solaires, les parfums, et leurs mélanges.24. Gel according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises a complementary compound chosen from antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic or pharmaceutical active agents that are lipophilic or hydrophilic, moisturizers, vitamins , essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, self-tanning compounds, sunscreens, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.
25. Composition solide à phase continue aqueuse, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un gel tel que défini à l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 24.25. Solid composition with aqueous continuous phase, characterized in that it comprises a gel as defined in any one of claims 1 to 24.
26. Produit de maquillage de la peau ou des fibres kératiniques, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend un gel tel que défini à l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 24 et/ou une composition telle que définie à la revendication 25.26. Makeup product for the skin or keratin fibers, characterized in that it comprises a gel as defined in any one of claims 1 to 24 and / or a composition as defined in claim 25.
27. Produit selon la revendication 26, caractérisé en ce qu'il constitue un produit de maquillage du corps, un fond de teint, une ombre à paupières, un fards à joues, un anti-cernes, un rouge à lèvres, un crayon du contour des lèvres, un mascara, un crayon du contour des yeux, un stick pour la teinture ou le maquillage de mèches de cheveux.27. Product according to claim 26, characterized in that it constitutes a body makeup product, a foundation, an eye shadow, a blush, a concealer, a lipstick, a pencil. lip contour, a mascara, an eye contour pencil, a stick for dyeing or making up locks of hair.
28. Procédé de maquillage de la peau et/ou des fibres kératiniques, consistant à appliquer sur la peau et/ou les fibres kératiniques, un gel tel que défini à l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 24 et/ou une composition telle que définie à la revendication 25 et/ou un produit tel que défini à l'une quelconque des revendications 26 ou 27. 28. Method for making up the skin and / or keratin fibers, consisting in applying to the skin and / or the keratin fibers, a gel as defined in any one of claims 1 to 24 and / or a composition such as defined in claim 25 and / or a product as defined in any one of claims 26 or 27.
PCT/FR2000/001632 1999-06-18 2000-06-13 Solid aqueous gel comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent and starch, composition comprising same and uses WO2000078857A1 (en)

Priority Applications (7)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP00951580A EP1112320A1 (en) 1999-06-18 2000-06-13 Solid aqueous gel comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent and starch, composition comprising same and uses
KR1020017002061A KR20010072740A (en) 1999-06-18 2000-06-13 Solid aqueous gel comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent and starch, composition comprising same and uses
MXPA01001680A MXPA01001680A (en) 1999-06-18 2000-06-13 Solid aqueous gel comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent and starch, composition comprising same and uses.
BR0006824-1A BR0006824A (en) 1999-06-18 2000-06-13 Solid aqueous gel comprising a hydrophilic and starch gelling agent, solid composition of continuous aqueous phase, products for the make-up of the skin or keratin fibers and their make-up process
JP2001505611A JP2003503316A (en) 1999-06-18 2000-06-13 Solid aqueous gel containing hydrophilic gelling agent and starch, composition containing the same and use thereof
AU64475/00A AU6447500A (en) 1999-06-18 2000-06-13 Solid aqueous gel comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent and starch, compositioncomprising same and uses
CA002340025A CA2340025A1 (en) 1999-06-18 2000-06-13 Solid aqueous gel comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent and starch, composition comprising same and uses

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR99/07770 1999-06-18
FR9907770A FR2795081A1 (en) 1999-06-18 1999-06-18 Solid aqueous gel for use in make-up products for skin, mucous membranes and keratin fibers, comprises hydrophilic gelling agent and at least starch or its derivatives

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WO2000078857A1 true WO2000078857A1 (en) 2000-12-28

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JP (1) JP2003503316A (en)
KR (1) KR20010072740A (en)
AU (1) AU6447500A (en)
BR (1) BR0006824A (en)
CA (1) CA2340025A1 (en)
FR (1) FR2795081A1 (en)
MX (1) MXPA01001680A (en)
WO (1) WO2000078857A1 (en)

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US8754136B2 (en) 2005-05-19 2014-06-17 Aqua Bio Technology Asa Gelatin-containing topical composition
CN104829874A (en) * 2015-05-21 2015-08-12 浙江海洋学院 Application of gelatin-ZnO nano composite film
KR101965607B1 (en) 2018-08-27 2019-04-04 (주)씨앤케이코스메디칼 External force-disintegrable solid cleanser comprising discontinous phase hydrogel and adhesive starch as binder and method for preparing the same
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DE10237459A1 (en) * 2002-08-16 2004-02-26 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic preparation containing active ingredients
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US10273424B2 (en) 2012-03-09 2019-04-30 B.C.B. International Limited Alcohol-containing compositions useful as solid fuels and processes for their manufacture
CN104829874A (en) * 2015-05-21 2015-08-12 浙江海洋学院 Application of gelatin-ZnO nano composite film
KR101965607B1 (en) 2018-08-27 2019-04-04 (주)씨앤케이코스메디칼 External force-disintegrable solid cleanser comprising discontinous phase hydrogel and adhesive starch as binder and method for preparing the same

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MXPA01001680A (en) 2002-04-08
KR20010072740A (en) 2001-07-31
BR0006824A (en) 2001-06-05
CA2340025A1 (en) 2000-12-28
FR2795081A1 (en) 2000-12-22
JP2003503316A (en) 2003-01-28
EP1112320A1 (en) 2001-07-04
AU6447500A (en) 2001-01-09

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