WO2000027343A2 - Cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations containing quaternary esters and partial glycerides - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to novel cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations for use in the area of hair and skin care. The inventive preparations contain (a) quaternary esters and (b) partial glycerides, (c1) alcoholethoxylates and/or (c2) alkyl oligoglycosides and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides and/or (c3) polyolpoly-12-hydroxystearates and optionally contain (d1) fatty alcohols and/or (d2) cyclic carbonates. The agents are characterized by making the hair feel softer to the touch and especially by making the skin feel pleasant to the touch.

Description

Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations

Field of the Invention

The invention relates to cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations with improved sensory properties for use in skin and hair care, containing esterquats, partial glycerides and selected surfactants in binary or ternary mixtures.

State of the art

Esterquats are cationic surfactants which, due to their excellent ecotoxicological properties, are becoming increasingly important both for the area of fabric softeners and for cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications. Overviews on this topic are, for example, by R. Puchta et al. in tens. Surf. Det., 30, 186 (1993), M. Brock in Tens. Surf. Det. 30, 394 (1993), R. Lagerman et al. in J. Am. Oil. Chem. Soc, 71, 97 (1994) and I. Shapiro et al. in Cosm.Toil. 109, 77 (1994) appeared. In cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations, esterquats, preferably together with fatty alcohols, are used to achieve a pleasant, soft skin and hair feeling. They can be contained in emulsions and lotions for skin care as well as in surfactants such as shampoos, shower baths, rinses, conditioners and the like for hair care. The disadvantage here, however, is that the desired soft feel of the skin and hair is sometimes felt as dull and dry, while the consumer desires a soft, smooth feel.

The object of the present invention was to improve the properties of ester quats by adding additives so that low-viscosity, storage-stable concentrates result which have the desired sensory properties and are self-emulsifying in water. Description of the invention

The invention relates to cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing

(a) Esterquats and

(b) partial glycerides,

(d) alcohol ethoxylates and / or

(c2) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides and / or

(c3) polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates and optionally

(d1) fatty alcohols and / or

(d2) cyclic carbonates.

It has surprisingly been found that the addition of substances which form component (c) significantly improve the softness of mixtures of esterquats and partial glycerides and their skin-sensitive properties. A further increase in the properties can be achieved if a further component of group (d) is added to the mixtures of esterquats and partial glycerides with the substances of group (c). The resulting concentrates are water-free, low-viscosity, stable in storage and self-emulsifying when introduced into aqueous phases.

Esterquats

The term "esterquats", which form component (a), is generally understood to mean quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. These are known substances which can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. In this connection, reference is made to the International Reference is made to patent application WO 91/01295 (Henkel), according to which triethanolamine is partially esterified with fatty acids in the presence of hypophosphorous acid, air is passed through and then quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or ethylene oxide. German Patent DE 4308794 C1 (Henkel) also describes a process for the preparation solid ester quats, in which the quaternization of triethanolamine esters is carried out in the presence of suitable dispersants, preferably fatty alcohols. Reviews on this topic are, for example, by R. Puchta et al. in Tens.Surf.Det., 30, 186 (1993), M.Brock in Tens.Surf.Det. 30, 394 (1993), R. Lagerman et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc, 71, 97 (1994) and I.Shapiro in Cosm.Toil. 109, 77 (1994) appeared. The quaternized fatty acid triethanoiamine ester salts follow the formula (I)

R ⁴

I.

[RiCO- (OCH ₂ CH2) mOCH2CH2-N ⁺ -CH2CH2θ- (CH2CH ₂ 0) nR ² ] X "(I)

I CH ₂ CH2θ (CH2CH2θ) _P R ³

in which R ¹ CO represents an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² and R ³ independently of one another for hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ^{4 represents} an alkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (CH2CH2θ) _r H group, m, n and p in total stand for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12, r for numbers from 1 to 12 and X for halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate. Typical examples of ester quats which can be used in the context of the invention are products based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, arachic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, such as they occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils. Technical Ci2 / i8 coconut fatty acids and in particular partially hardened Ci6 _/ 18 tallow or palm fatty acids as well as high elaidic acid Ci6 / 18 fatty acid cuts are preferably used. The fatty acids and the triethanolamine can be used in a molar ratio of 1.1: 1 to 3: 1 to produce the quaternized esters. With regard to the application properties of the ester quats, an application ratio of 1.2: 1 to 2.2: 1, preferably 1.5: 1 to 1.9: 1 has proven to be particularly advantageous. The preferred esterquats are technical mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters with an average degree of esterification of 1.5 to 1.9 and are derived from technical C16 / 18-tallow or palm fatty acid (iodine number 0 to 40). From an application point of view, quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts of the formula (I) have proven to be particularly advantageous in which R ¹ CO for an acyl radical having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, R ² for R ¹ CO, R ³ for hydrogen, R ⁴ for a methyl group, m , n and p is 0 and X is methyl sulfate.

In addition to the quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines of the formula (II) are also suitable as esterquats,

R ⁴

I.

[R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CH2) mOCH2CH2-N ⁺ -CH2CH ₂ 0- (CH2CH2θ) nR2] X- (II)

I.

R ⁵ in which R ¹ CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² for hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m and n in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12 and X represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate. Finally, a further group of suitable ester quats are the quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines of the formula (III),

I I

[R ⁴ -N ⁺ -CH2CHCH2θ- (CH ₂ CH2θ) _n R ² ] * (III)

IR ⁵

in which R ¹ CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² for hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m and n in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12 and X represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.

With regard to the selection of the preferred fatty acids and the optimal degree of esterification, the examples given for (I) also apply to the esterquats of the formulas (II) and (III). The esterquats usually come on the market in the form of 50 to 90% strength by weight alcoholic solutions, which can be diluted with water if required.

Partial glycerides

Partial glycerides, that is, monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures, which form component (b), can still contain small amounts of triglycerides due to the production process. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (IV)

CH ₂ 0 (CH ₂ CH2θ) xCOR ⁷

I.

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) yR8 (IV)

I CH ₂ 0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) zR ⁹

in which R ⁷ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, R ⁸ and R ⁹ independently of one another for R ⁷ CO or H and the sum (x + y + z ) stands for 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 5 to 25, with with the proviso that at least one of the two radicals R ⁸ and R ^{9 is} H. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on capric acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, linolenic acid, linolenic acid, linolenic acid, linolenic acid, linolenic acid, linolenic acid, linolenic acid Arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Technical lauric acid glycerides, palmitic acid glycerides, stearic acid glycerides, isostearic acid glycerides, oleic acid glycerides, behenic acid glycerides and / or erucic acid glycerides, which have a monoglyceride content in the range from 50 to 95, preferably 60 to 90% by weight, are preferably used.

Alcohol ethoxylates

Alcohol ethoxylates, which form component (d), are referred to as fatty alcohol or oxo alcohol ethoxylates for production reasons and preferably follow the formula (V),

R ¹ ° 0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) aH (V)

in which R ^{10 represents} a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and a represents numbers from 1 to 50. Typical examples are the adducts of on average 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40 and in particular 10 to 25, moles of capron alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, caprinal alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol Elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyla alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are used, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as unsaturated monomer alcohol in the dimerization of dimer . Adducts of 10 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as, for example, coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are preferred.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligonucleotides

Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides which form component (c2) are known nonionic surfactants which follow the formula (VI)

R ¹¹ 0- [G] _q (VI) in which R ^{11 represents} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and q represents numbers from 1 to 10. They can be obtained according to the relevant procedures in preparative organic chemistry. Representative of the extensive literature here is the review by Biermann et al. in Starch /force 45, 281 (1993), B.Salka in Cosm.Toil. 108, 89 (1993) and J.Kahre et al. in SÖFW-Journal Issue 8, 598 (1995).

The alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number q in the general formula (VI) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While q in a given compound must always be an integer, especially here can assume the values q = 1 to 6, the value q for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, which usually represents a fractional number. Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization q of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, preference is given to those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹¹ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length Cβ-Cio (DP = 1 to 3) are preferred, which are obtained as a preliminary step in the separation of technical C8-Ci8 coconut fatty alcohol by distillation and can be contaminated with a proportion of less than 6% by weight of Ci2-alcohol and Alkyloiigoglucoside based on technical Cθ / n-oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹¹ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated Ci2 / i4 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred. POIVΌIPOIV-12-hydroxystearate

The polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates which form component (c3) are known substances which are sold, for example, under the "Dehymuls® PGPH" or "Eumulgin® VL" brands

75 "(mixture with Coco Glucosides in a weight ratio of 1: 1) are sold by Henkel KGaA, Dusseldorf / FRG. In this connection, reference is also made to the international patent application WO 95/34528 (Henkel). The polyol component of the emulsifiers can be derived from substances which have at least two, preferably 3 to 12 and in particular 3 to 8 hydroxyl groups and 2 to 12 carbon atoms, typical examples being:

(a) glycerin and polyglycerin;

(b) alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol;

(c) methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

(d) alkyl oligoglucosides with 1 to 22, preferably 1 to 8 and in particular 1 to 4 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;

(e) sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol;

(f) sugars with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

(g) aminosugars such as glucamine.

Among the emulsifiers to be used according to the invention, reaction products based on polyglycerol are of particular importance because of their excellent performance properties. It has proven particularly advantageous to use selected polyglycerols which have the following homolog distribution (the preferred ranges are given in brackets):

Glycerins: 5 to 35 (15 to 30)% by weight

Diglycerins: 15 to 40 (20 to 32) wt%

Triglycerins: 10 to 35 (15 to 25)% by weight

Tetragiycerins: 5 to 20 (8 to 15)% by weight

Pentaglycerins: 2 to 10 (3 to 8) wt%

Oligoglycerins: ad 100% by weight

Fatty alcohols

Fatty alcohols which form component (d1) are to be understood as primary aliphatic alcohols of the formula (VII) R1 0H (VII)

in which R ^{12 represents} an aliphatic, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds. Typical examples are capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol Technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Technical fatty alcohols with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as, for example, coconut, palm, palm kem or tallow fatty alcohol, are preferred.

Cyclic carbonates

Cyclic carbonates, which form component (d2), are usually produced by transesterification of dimethyl carbonate or diethyl carbonate with glycerol or vicinal diols, preferably 1, 2-diols. Typical examples of suitable cyclic carbonates are the esterification products of the lower dialkyl carbonates mentioned with ethylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 2-decanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol and 1, 2-hexadecanediol. The diols mentioned are generally prepared by opening the corresponding terminal olefin epoxides with water; analog, of course, 1, 2-diols can also serve as starting materials, which are obtained on the basis of internal olefin epoxides. From an application point of view, the use of glycerol carbonate is preferred. The proportion of the cyclic carbonates in the cosmetic compositions can be 0.01 to 50, preferably 0.1 to 30 and in particular 5 to 10% by weight.

Industrial applicability

The pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations according to the invention can be used for the production of skin and hair treatment compositions. In the simplest case, it is sufficient to dilute the mixtures with water to an application concentration. The agents, such as, for example, hair shampoos, hair lotions, bubble baths, creams, gels, lotions or ointments and the like, can furthermore, as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, Emulsifiers, superfatting agents, oil polishing waxes, consistency enhancers, thickening agents, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, stabilizers, biogenic agents, deodorant agents, anti-dandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, hydrotropes, preservatives, insect repellents, self-tanning agents, perfumes, solubilizers and the like included.

A typical preparation according to the invention has the following composition:

0.5 to 30, preferably 1 to 10% by weight of component (a), 0.5 to 5, preferably 1 to 3% by weight of component (b), 0.5 to 10, preferably 1 to 5% by weight. % Component (d), 0.5 to 10, preferably 1 to 5% by weight component (c2), 0.5 to 5, preferably 1 to 3% by weight component (c3),

0 to 30, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight of component (d1),

0 to 5, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight of component (d2).

Typical examples of suitable mild, i.e. particularly skin-compatible surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycolethersulfate, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ether carboxylic acids, Alkyloiigoglucoside, fatty acid glucamides, Alkyiamidobetaine and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-Ci3-carboxylic acids with linear C6-C22- Fatty alcohols, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, especially 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, especially dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (e.g. Propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C6-CiQ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on Cδ-Ciβ fatty acids, esters of Cε-C∑∑ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or of polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C22 fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22 alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per Alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons. Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

(1) adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and with aikylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group;

(2) Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;

(3) sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products;

(4) adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

(5) polyol and especially polyglycerol esters such as e.g. Polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimer isostearate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes of substances are also suitable;

(6) adducts of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

(7) partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6 / 22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, butyl glucoside , Lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (eg cellulose);

(8) mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates as well as mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;

(9) wool wax alcohols;

(10) polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

(11) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 1165574 PS and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol and

(12) Polyalkylene glycols.

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty acids, aikylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters as well as sorbitan mono- and diesters with fatty acids or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs, the average degree of alkoxylation of which is Ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out corresponds. Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxyl -3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cβ / iβ-alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SOßH group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkylsarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid each with about 8 to 18 C. Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkyl aminopropionate, coconut acylaminoethyl aminopropionate and Ci∑-acyl sarcosine. In addition to the ampholytic emulsifiers, quaternary emulsifiers are also suitable, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products from

n Olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.

Suitable thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (for example Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma ), Polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a restricted homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers such as e.g. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, e.g. Amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyamino polyamides, e.g. described in FR 2252840 A and its crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane, cationic guar gum, e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyllace- tat / butyl maleate / isobomylacrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert.butylaminoethyl methacrylate, poly-hydroxypropyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam teφolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones in question.

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, waxes include Beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, hydrogenated castor oils, fatty acid esters or micro waxes solid at room temperature, optionally in combination with hydrophilic waxes, e.g. Cetylstearyl alcohol or partial glycerides in question. Metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.

Biogenic active substances are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.

Deodorants come e.g. Antiperspirants such as aluminum chlorohydates are possible. These are colorless, hygroscopic crystals that easily dissolve in the air and arise when aqueous aluminum chloride solutions are evaporated. Aiuminium chlorohydrate is used for the manufacture of antiperspirant and deodorant preparations and is likely to act by partially occluding the sweat glands through protein and / or polysaccharide precipitation [cf. J.Soc.Cosm.Chem. 24, 281 (1973)]. Under the Locron® brand from Hoechst AG,

Frankfurt / FRG, for example, is aiumium chlorohydrate on the market which corresponds to the formula [Al2 (OH) 5CI] * 2.5 H ₂ 0 and whose use is particularly preferred [cf. J.Pharm.Pharmacol. 26, 531 (1975)]. In addition to the chlorohydrates, aluminum hydroxyl lactates and acidic aluminum / zirconium salts can also be used. Esterase inhibitors can be added as further deodorant active ingredients. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. The cleavage of the citric acid ester probably releases the free acid, which lowers the pH value on the skin to such an extent that the enzymes are inhibited. Other substances which are suitable esterase inhibitors are dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof such as glutaric acid, Glutarsäuremo- noethylester, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, Adipinsäuredie- methyl ester, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and esters thereof such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or Tartaric acid diethyl ester. Antibacterial agents that influence the bacterial flora and kill sweat-killing bacteria or inhibit their growth can also be contained in the stick preparations. Examples include chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. 5-Chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophen-oxy) phenol, which is sold under the Irgasan® brand by

Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH.

Climbazole, octopirox and zinc pyrethione can be used as antidandruff agents. Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary celulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds. Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;

• esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate-2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene) 4-methoxycinnamate;

• esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl saiicylic acid, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylic acid, homomethyl salicylic acid; • Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;

Triazine derivatives, e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 A1;

Propane-1,3-dione, e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

• Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521 B1.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

• sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters -4'-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), or 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.

Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996). In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples of this are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-camosine, L-carosin and their derivatives (e.g. Anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, Cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts , Dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximines, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, hepatathioninsulfoxins. Low) tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, Bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and

Ubiquinol and its derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyipalmitate, Mg ascorbyiphosphate, ascorbylacetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of the benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α- rutin, ferulic acid, Furfurylidenglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, superoxide dismutase, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO, ZnS0 ₄₎ Selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium-methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are

• glycerin;

Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons; Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as technical digiycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

• Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

• Lower alkyl glucosides, in particular those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;

Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,

• Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

Aminosugars, such as glucamine.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, aldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance. As insect repellents, N, N-diethyl-m-touluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or insect repellants 3535 are suitable, and dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanning agent.

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linanyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, unalylbenzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallyl propalate and benzyl acetate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes e.g. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones e.g. the Jonone, oc-lsomethylionon and Methylcedrylketon, to the

Alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balms. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, chamomile oil, nell

Claims

ken oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, .alpha.-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, cycloalene oil, cycloaluminum oil, orangelol oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil , Muscatel sage oil, ß-mascot, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexylsaiicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures, The dyes which can be used are the substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole. The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the composition - amount. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used. The formulations 1 to 10 and the comparative example V1 were prepared by mixing the individual components at 25 ° C according to Table 1. Table 1: Conditioning shampoos (composition in% by weight) The formulations 1 to 10 according to the invention are low-viscosity emulsions which proved to be stable even when stored for 4 weeks at 40 ° C. All 10 conditioning shampoos were assessed by 15 trained subjects. Each of the 10 products according to the invention was rated at least 20% better than the comparative product V1 with regard to the softness of the hair. claims 1. Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing (a) Esterquats and (b) partial glycerides, (d) alcohol ethoxylates and / or (c2) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides and / or (c3) polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates and optionally (d1) fatty alcohols and / or (d2) cyclic carbonates. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain as component (a) ester quats of the formula (I), R ⁴ I. [RiCO- (OCH2CH2) mOCH ₂ CH2-N ^t .CH2CH2θ- (CH ₂ CH2θ) nR ² ] X ^" (I) I

in which R ¹ CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² and R ³ independently of one another for hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ⁴ for an alkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (CH _∑ CH _∑ OJrH group, m , n and p in total represent 0 or numbers from 1 to 12, r represents numbers from 1 to 12 and X represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate. 3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain as component (a) ester quats of the formula (II), R ⁴ I. [R ^ O-fOCH∑CH ^ mOCH∑CH∑-N ^ CH∑CH∑O-tCH∑CH∑OJnR ² ] X- (II) I

in which R ¹ CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² for hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m and n in Sum is 0 or numbers from 1 to 12 and X is halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate. 4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain as component (a) ester quats of the formula (III),

I I [R ⁴ .N ⁺ -CH ₂ CHCH ₂ 0- (CH2CH2θ) nR ² ] X- (III) IR ⁵ in the R CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² for hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m and n in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12 and X represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate. 5. Compositions according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they contain partial glycerides of the formula (IV) as component (b), CH ₂ 0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _x COR ⁷ I

I. CH ₂ 0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _z R ⁹ in the R ⁷ CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ⁸ and R ⁹ independently of one another for R ⁷ CO or H and the sum (x + y + z) for 0 or numbers is from 1 to 100, with the proviso that at least one of the two radicals R ⁸ and R ^{9 is} H. 6. Composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they contain alcohol ethoxylates of the formula (V) as component (d), R ¹⁰ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) aH (V) in which R ^{10 represents} a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and a represents numbers from 1 to 50. 7. Composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it as Component (c2) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of the form! (VI) contain R ¹¹ 0- [G] _q (VI) in which R ^{11 represents} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and q represents numbers from 1 to 10. 8. Composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it contains as component (c3) polyglycerol-12-hydroxystearate. 9. Composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that they contain, as optional component (d1), fatty alcohols of the formula (VII), R ¹² OH (VII) in which R ^{12 represents} an aliphatic, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds. 10. Agent according to at least one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it (a) 0.5 to 30% by weight of ester quats and (b) 0.5 to 5% by weight of partial glycerides, (d) 0.5 to 10% by weight alcohol ethoxylates and / or (c2) 0.5 to 10% by weight of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides and / or (c3) 0.5 to 5% by weight of polyol poly-12-hydroxystearate and optionally (d 1) 0 to 30% by weight of fatty alcohol (d2) 0 to 5% by weight of cyclic carbonates contain, with the proviso that the amounts are supplemented with water and other conventional auxiliaries and additives to 100 wt .-%. 11. Use of mixtures according to claim 1 for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations.