US690978A - Machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons. - Google Patents

Description

No. 690,978. Patented Jan. I4, I902.

J. MATHISDN. MACHINE FOB SEWING SHANK EYED BUTTONS.

(Application filed Feb. 27, 1901.

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(No Model.)

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' Patented Ian. I4, I902.

J. MATHISUN. MACHINE FOR-SEWING SHANK EYED BUTTONS.

(Application filed. Feb. 27, 1901.)

I0 Sheets-Sheet .2.

(No Model.)

No. 690,978. Paterit'euan.14;]902. I J.MATHISON.

MACHINE FOR SEWING SHANK EYED BUTTONS.

{Application filed. Feb. 27, 1901. j (No Model.)

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'No. 690,978. 'Patent'ed Ian. M, I902.

' J. MATHISON.

MACHINE FOR SEWING SH ANK EYED-BUTTUNS.

(Application filed Feb. 27, 1901.) (No Model.) m snaets -sheet' 5.-

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No. 690,978. Patented Jan. [4, I902. J. MATHISDN.

MACIHNE FOB SEWING SHANK'EYED BUTTONS.

(Application filed Feb. 27, 1901.)

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(No Model.)

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M i Q fill/690,978. 'Patentedlan. 14, I902.

- J. MATHISON.

MACHINE FOR SEWING SHANK EY'ED BUTTONS.

(Application filed Fe b. 27, 1901.) (N o M 0d e l l0 Sheets-Sheet 8.

\MTNEEEEE: INVENTQRJ- No. 690,978. Patented Ian. l4, I902.

V J. MATHISUN.

.mAcymE FOR SEWING SHANK EYED BUTTONS.

(Application filed Feb. 27, 1901.;

(No Model.)

l0 Sheets-Sheet 9.

\A/ITHESSEZS Patented Jan. I4, i902;

J. MA-THISON. I MACHINE FOR SEWING SHANK EYED BUTTONS (Application flleri Feb. 27, 1901.\

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JOSEPH MATHISON, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO NEXV BUTTON SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, OF NEWARK, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

MACHINE FOR SEWING SHANK EYED BUTTONS.

SPECIFIGATION forming part of Letters Patent N 0. 690,978, dated January 14, 1902.

Application filed February 27, 1901. Serial No. 49,052. kllo model.)

T at whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOSEPH ll/IATHISON, of Boston, in the county of Sufiolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Machines for Sewing Shank-Eyed Buttons, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to machines for seving shank-eyed buttonssuch as are used for shoes, riseto shoe-uppers, leggings, gaiters, and other articles, and relates to the class of machine shown in Letters Patent of the United States No. 268,369, dated November 28, 1882, said machine effecting the attachment of a shank-eyed button by drawing a primary loop of thread through the material to which the button is to be attached and also through the eye of the button, then drawing a secondary loop through the material and through the primary loop outside of the eye of the button, tightening the primary loop, and finally passing the secondary loop over the button and tightening said loop, thereby interlocking both loops and forming a square knot,one loop or bight of which passes th rough and the other around the eye of the button.

The present invention has for its chief objectto enable the loops forming theknotabove referred to to be more effectually and tightly taken up than heretofore, so that they Will form what I have hereinafter called a hard bow-knot, which will not slip and will have no loose thread.

The invention also has for its object to provide various improvements looking to the more efficient and satisfactory operation of button-sewing machines of this character.

The invention consists, first, in a buttonsewing machine comprising button'supplying mechanism, loop-forming mechanism organized to form and engage with the button-eye, suitable button-securing loops which as left by the loop-forming mechanism constitute what I have hereinafter termed an incipient knot, and mechanism for exerting an outward pull on the button-eye while the supply-thread is tightly held, said pull tending to raise the eye from the material to which the button is connected by the incipient knot and so taking up the parts of the knot as to completely tighten the same and convert it into a hard bow-knot.

The invention also consists in various organizations of mechanism and mechanical details relating to the knot-tightening operation and to other parts of the operation of attaching a shank-eyed button to a piece of material, all of which I will now proceed to de scribe and claim.

In the embodiment of my invention shown in the accompanying drawings and selected by me for purposes of illustration, Figure 1 represents a front side elevation of a buttonsewing machine embodying my invention. Fig. 2 represents a front end elevation. Fig. 3 represents a top plan view. Fig. 4 represents a rear side elevation. Fig. 5 represents an enlarged front end view showing parts of the machine broken away and parts in section. Fig. (3 represents a View similar to a portion of Fig. 5, showing the button-tipping finger in a different position. Figs. 7, 7, 7 and 7 are sectional views of the thread-controller shown in Fig. 5. Figs. 8 and 8- are perspective views showing the course of the thread through and upon the thread-controller when in the positions shown. in Figs.

7 and 7. Fig. 9 is a section on line 9 9 of Fig. 5. Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. 5,

showing the needle depressed. Fig. 11 is an enlarged front side elevation showing a portion of the machine broken away and a part of the swinging carrier in section. Fig. 12 represents a View similar to a portion of Fig. 11, certain parts being shown in different positions from those shown in Fig. 11. Figs. 13 and 14 are sectional views of the lower portion of the button-chute and adjacent parts, together with elevations of the button-eye-clamping jaw and button-ejector and parts of the loop-forming mechanism. Fig. 14" is a view similar toa portion of Figs. 13 and 14:, showing the position of the button when it has been tipped by the button-finger. Fig. 15 is a rear end elevation of the machine. Fig. 16 is a section on line 16 16 of Fig. 10. Fig. 17 is a section on line 17 17 of Fig. 16. Fig. 18 is a perspective view showing the lower portion of the button-chute, the button-eye clamp, and parts of the loop-forming mechanism. Fig. 19, 20, and 21 are perspective views illustrating parts of the loop-forming operation. Fig. 22 is an end elevation of the lower portion of the button-chute, showing the eye-clamping jaw raised to permit the lowest button to move to its needle-receiving position. Fig. 23 is a view similar to Fig. 22, showing the clamping-jaw depressed to hold the button-eye. Fig. 24 is a View similar to Fig 23, showing the primary loop drawn through the button-eye. Fig. 25 is a view similar to Fig. 24, showing the primary loop bent to permit the descent of the needle through it to form the secondary loop. Fig. 26 is a view similar to Fig. 25, showing the secondary loop drawn through the primary loop and the latter taken up. Fig. 27 is a view similar to Fig. 26, showing the primary loop spread to receive the button-head. Fig. 28 is a view similar to Fig. 27, showing the clamping-jaw raised to permit the ejection of the button-head from the chute and its passage through the secondary loop. Fig. 28 is a perspective view showing the button and the two loops in the position shown in Fig. 28. Fig. 29 is a view similar to Fig. 28, showing the button pushed through the secondary loop and the clamping-jaw returned to position shown in Fig. 22 to prevent the buttonhead from tipping back into the chute. Fig. 29 is a perspective view showing the button and the two loops in the position shown in Fig. 29. Fig. 30 is a view similar to Fig 29, showing. the loop after it has been released by the needle and before it has been released by the spreader. Fig. 30 is a perspective view of the button and loops in the position shown in Fig. 30. Fig. 31 is a perspective view of the button and loops after the secondary loop has been partially taken up. Fig. 31 is an elevation showing the button and loops in the position shown in Fig. 31. Fig. 32 is an elevation showing the button tipped to permit the secondary loop to slip down under the eye of the button, the knot being only partially tightened. Fig. 32 is a view similar to Fig. 32, showing the knot completely tightened. Fig. 33 is a view similar to Fig. 32, showing the button in-its upright position on the work. Fig. 34 is a section on line 34 34 of Fig. 4. Fig. 35 is a section on line 35 35 of Fig. 4. Fig. 36 is a section on line 36 36 of Fig. 12. Fig. 37 is a section on line 37 37 of Fig. 4.

The same reference characters indicate the same parts in all the figures.

1 represents the driving-shaft of the machine, having the cams hereinafter described for imparting motion to the various parts.

The frame of the machine comprises a suitable base or bed 2, an arm 3, rising from and overhanging one end of the bed, and a post 4, rising from the bed under the outer end of the arm.

5 represents the button-reservoir, which is affixed rigidly to the frame of the machine.

As here shown, the reservoir comprises an inclined bottom plate from which extends an inclined arm or plate 6, forming one member of the button-chute, the crowns of the buttonheads bearing on the said plate and sliding down the same with their shank-eyes projecting upwardly between and guided by the parallel guide members 7 8 of the buttonchute. The members 7 8 are spaced the required distance apart to permit a shank-eye to pass edgewise between their inner edges, which form the sides of a slot extending from the reservoir to the point where the eye of each button is presented to the needle, as hereinafter described. The lower end of said slot is curved, and the guide member 8 has a horizontal extension 9, Figs. 6, 18, 19,20, and 22, on which the shank-eye of each button rests horizontally when it reaches the lower end of the chute, said extension constituting a button-eye-supporting member. Behind the horizontal extension 9 is a fixed stop 10, Figs. 18 and 22, which arrests the head of the button when the eye is in position to receive the descending needle.

11, Figs. 13 and 14, represents a buttonejector formed on a plate 12, which is pivoted at 13 and is oscillated by means presently described, so that the ejector 11 first bears against the button-head while the shank-eye is in its needle-receiving position, Fig. 13, and while the primary loop is being drawn through the button-eye and then forces the button out of the chute, Fig. 14, before the secondary loop is thrown over the head of the button. The ejector 11 is oscillated by means of a cam-groove 14, Fig. 4, in a disk on the driving-shaft, a lever 15, pivoted at 16 to the frame, said lever having a trundle-roll 17, Fig. 4, engaged with said groove, and a link 18, connecting the lower end of the lever with the plate 12.

19, Figs. 12, 13, 14, and 22, represents a button-clamping jaw which bears on the upper side of the button-eye when the head of the button is in the position shown in Fig. 13 and its eye is in position to receive the needle, the button-eye being firmly clamped between thejaw 19 and the eye-supporting member 9 of the chute. The clamping-jaw 19 is pivoted on a fixed stud 20 and is oscillated to alternately clamp and release the button by means of a cam-groove 21, Fig. 4, in a disk on the driving-shaft, a lever 22, pivoted at 23 to the frame and having a trundle-roll 24 engaged with the cam-groove 21, and a link 25, connecting the lower end of the lever 22 with an ear formed on the jaw 19. The part of a boot or shoe upper or other article to which buttons are to be attached, which part for convenience I will term the work, is supported during the button-sewing operation between a fixed horizontal guide-arm 26, having a vertical shank 27, Figs. 5 and 10, which is attached to the frame, said arm bearing on the upper side of the work and constituting an inverted bed-plate, and a presserfoot 28, located below the bed-plate and having a slight vertical movement toward and from the latter to alternately clamp and release the work. The presser-foot is affixed to a vertical bar 29, which slides in guides in the frame and has at its lower portion a trundle-roll 30, Figs. 17 and 18, which enters a cam-slot 31 in a horizontally-movable slide 32. Said slide is reciprocated by means of a cam-groove 33, Fig. 4, in a disk on the driving-shaft, a lever composed of two arms 34, Fig. 4, and 35, Fig. 1, and a rock-shaft 36, rigidly connecting said arms and journaled in the frame, the arm 34 having a trundleroll 37, engaged with the cam-groove 33, and a link 38, connecting the arm 35 with the slide 32. When the slide is moved in one direction, the upper wall of the cam-slot 31 depresses the presser bar and foot, thus releas ing the work, and when the slide is moved in the opposite direction the lower wall of the cam-slot raises the bar and foot, thus clamping the work, as hereinafter described.

The needle 39 is affixed to a needle-bar 40, which is fitted to slide in an oscillatory carrier 41, having an ear 42, Fig. 11, at its upper end, which is connected by a pivot'stud 43 (see also Fig. 18) to an ear 44 on the frame and is swung on its pivot and held alternately in two positions, so that the needle in its first descent and ascent passes through the eye of the button and in its next descent and ascent passes outside of the button-eye. The carrier 41 is moved from one position to the other and held in the two positions by means of a cam-groove 45, Fig. 5, also Fig. 31, Sheet 1, in the side of a disk on the driving-shaft, and a link 46, pivoted at 47 to an car 48 on the lower portion of the carrier and having a tru ndle-roll 49 entering said cam-groove. The link 46 is forked at one end, the divisions of the forked end bestriding the driving-shaft, so that the latter guides the link and keeps it from swinging vertically.

The needle-bar is reciprocated in the carrier 41 by means of a rock-shaft 50, journaled in hearings on the frame and having at one end an arm 51, a roll 52 on which enters a cam-groove 53, Figs. 1 and 2, in a disk on the drivingshaft, whereby the rock shaft is rocked in its bearings. To the other end of the rock-shaft is affixed an arm 54, having a slot 55, in which is a sliding block 56, receiving a stud 57, Fig. 10, projecting from the needle-bar, the slot 55 and block 56 compensating for the changes of position of the carrier 41 and enabling the arm 54 to reciprocate the needle-bar in either position of the head. The rock shaft 50 has an arm 58, which through a link 59 operates an agitator 60, Fig. 1, in the button-reservoir.

61 represents the primary cast-off, which is located beside and in contact with the needle and is attached to a bar 62, Fig. 11, fitted to slide in the swinging carrier 41 beside the needle-bar. The cast-off bar 62 is supported by a friction-plug 63 and has a projection 64,

located above a projection 66 on the needlebar, the cast-01f being moved upwardly by the contact of the projection 66 with the projection 64, when the needle-bar rises, and by the contact of the lower end of the needle-bar with the cast-oft, as shown in Fig. 11, when the needle-bar descends, the cast-off bar being held by the friction-plug 63 in its raised position during a part of the descent of the needle-bar.

67 represents the looper, which is located below the presser-foot and is attached to a vertical shaft 68, Fig. 5, journaled in hearings in the frame. The looper-shaft is rocked to oscillate the looper and cause it to present the thread to the needle at each descent of the latter by means of a cam-groove 69, Fig. 4, in a disk on the driving-shaft, a lever composed of two arms 70 71, and a rock-shaft 72, rigidly connecting said arms and journaled in a bearing in the frame, the arm 70 having a trundleroll 73, engaged with the cam-groove 69, a sliding rack 74, Figs. 5 and 16, the teeth. of which are engaged with a pinion on the looper-shaft, and a link 76, connecting the lever-arm 71 with the rack 74.

77, Figs. 18 to 21, represents a loop-holding finger or bender which swings toward the button-chute across the path of the needle after the latter has drawn the primary loop up through the eye of the button and has a curved outer end, which bears against the side of the primary loop and holds it at a point below its upper end while the needle is moving laterally preparatory to its second descent through the primary loop. This movement of the needle while it is within the primary loop causes the needle and the bender 77 to bend the upper portion of the primary loop, as

shown in Figs. 19 and 23, so that the needle at its next ascent draws the secondary loop through the bent portion of the primary loop, as shown in Figs. 20 and 24. The loop-bender 77 is pivoted at 78, Fig. 18, to a fixed arm 79 on the lower end of the button-chute and is oscillated by means of a cam 80 on the driving-shaft, alever 81, pivoted at 82 to the frame above the cam and having a trundle-roll 83, which is held by a spring 84 against the cam, and a link 85, connecting the lower end of the lever 81 with an arm on the loop-bender 77. The said loop-bender moves backwardly to the outer side of the path of the needle after the secondary loop has been drawn up and remains there until the next primary loop has been drawn up.

The spreader for the secondary loop is a substantially triangular horizontal plate 86,

IIO

Fig. 19, 20, and 21, aflixed to the lower end of a vertical shaft 87, which is journaled in the swinging head. Said plate has a hook 88,

which I term the spreader-hook, and a projection or finger 8.9,Fig. 19,which successively engage the sides of the secondary loop when the spreader is being moved by the rotation of its shaft in one direction, the hook 88 first engaging the inner side of the loop while it is held by the barb of the raised needle and opening the loop, giving it an approximately triangular form. The finger 89 then engages the other side of the loop and holds it while the secondary cast-01f (hereinafter described) is disengaging the secondary loop from the barb of the needle, the two hooks S8 cooperating with the needle in holding the secondary loop in a triangular form and in position to receive the head of the button when the latte-r is forced outwardly by the ejector 11, which forces the button through the primary loop While it is thus held by the spreader and needle. The function of the finger 89 is described hereinafter. After this the spread ershaft 87 is rotated in the opposite direction and swings the spreader to the outer side of the path of the needle, where it remains until the next secondary loop has been drawn up. The spreader-shaft is rocked to give the spreader the described movements by means of a cam-groove 90, Fig. 4, in a disk on the driving-shaft, a lever 91, pivoted at 92 to the frame and havinga trundle-roll 93 at its lower end engaged with the said cam-groove, and a rack 94, movable in a guide in the frame and meshing with a pinion 95, aflixed to the spreader-shaft, the rack being engaged with the upper end of the lever 91 by a stud 96, projecting from the rack into a block 97, fitted to slide in a slot 98 in the lever. The rack 94: and pinion 95 are located in such relation to the pivot 43, Fig. 11, on which the carrier swings, that the swinging movements of the carrier and spreader-shaft do not affect the operative engagement of the said rack and pinion. The triangular spreader-plate 86 has a shank 860, Figs. 19, 20, and 21, which is held in a slot extending across the center of the shaft 87. The plate 86 projects wholly from one side of said shank, so that it is at one side of the center of the shaft 87. Hence when the shaft is turned to the position shown in Fig. 19 the spreader-plate is moved to one side of the path of the needle, and when the shaft is turned to the position shown in Fig. 21 the spreader-plate extends across the path of the needle to engage and hold the second ary loop while the needle is raised.

The secondary cast-off, which disengages the secondary loop from the barb of the needle, is an arm 99, Fig. 12, pivoted at to an ear 101 on the swinging head 41, its lower end being bent and provided with an orifice 102, Figs. 19 and 20, to receive the needle when the latter dips, as hereinafter described, after the secondary loop has been engaged by the spreader, the dipping movement of the needle causing the barb to enter the orifice of the secondary cast-off, so that the said castoff arrests the loop and disengages it from the barb after the needle has completed its part of the operation of forming the secondary loop. Thesecondary cast-off 99 is oscillated to carry it alternately into and outof the path of the needle by means of a cam 103, Figs.

1041, which holds the upper end of the shank of the said cast-off in yielding contact with said cam.

105, Figs. 5, 7, and 8, represents a threadcontroller which, as here shown, is a roll journaled in a fixed holder 106 below the presserfoot. Said roll has a grooved periphery and a thread-passage 107 extending diametrically through it. The holder 106 has a thread-passage 108 above the disk, which coincides with the passage 107 when the latter is in a vertical position. The controller is partially rotated from time to time and is held with the thread-passage in different positions after its partial rotations, as fully described in connection with the operation of the machine and as shown in Figs. 7, 7*, 7 and 7.

The functions of the thread-controller are to accumulate, release, and positively lock the thread, the thread being released atthe proper times to the needle and to the work-feeding mechanism and drawn or measured off from the thread-supply through the tension device, so that sufficient slack thread is provided to enable the needle to form each set of loops without drawing from the portion of the supply-thread that is under tension. Hence practically no strain is exerted on the needle and spreader by the tension device when the loops are being drawn up and spread. The positive locking of the thread by the said controllers enables the knot to be effectively tightened, as hereinafter described. The disk 105 is oscillated back and forth in the manner described by means of a face-cam 109, Fig. 54, on the driving-shaft, a rod or link 110, having an eye 111, surrounding the drivingshaft, and a trundle-roll 112, bearing on the cam 109, a rock-shaft 113, journaled in fixed bearings and having an arm 114, pivoted to the lower end of the rod 110, and an arm 115, affixed to the rock-shaft and having a racksegment 116, which engages a pinion 117, Fig. 5, affixed to the shaft of the disk 105. Aspring 118, acting on the rod 110, holds the trundleroll112 against the cam 109.

119, Fig. 2, represents an ordinary wing tension, which is interposed between the gumcup, (not shown,) through which the supplythread passes, and the disk 105.

represents a finger which has a backand-forth motion over the inverted plate 26. One function of this finger is to feed along the work by pushing each button after it has been attached a distance equal to the space desired between each button and the next, the material being moved along with the button. Another and more important function of the finger is to tip over or upset each button, as hereinafter described, after the securing-loops have been formed and tightened,- this tipping movement being effected when the finger first strikes the button and after the thread of the secondary loop has been taken up and before the finger pushes the button along to feed the work. After the 12 and 33, on the looper-shaft, and a spring feeding movement the finger is moved back to a position over the forward portion of the bed-plate. The spacing and tipping finger is attached to the swinging end of an oscillating arm 12], which is pivoted at 122 to the frame and is oscillated to give the finger its back-and-forth movements by a cam 123, Fig. 35, on the dlivingshaft, a lever 124, pivoted at 125 to the frame and having a trundle-roll 126, bearing on the cam 123, and a link 127, connecting the lever 12twith the arm 121 and pivoted to the latter at 227. A spring 128, acting on the lever 124 through a link 129, Figs. 5 and 10, holds the trundle-roll126 yieldingly against the cam. The link 127 is adjustably connected with the lever 124 by means of a segmental slot 130 in the lever and a stud 131, Fig. 9, adjustable in the slot and passing through the link 127, saidstud having a clamping thumb-nut 132, which passes through an orifice in the link and bears against a loose Washer 133 on the stud. The washer bears against the outer side of the lever 124, and the stud has a head 134, hear ing against the inner side of the lever. \Vhen the nut is tightened, the head 131 and washer 133 are clamped firmly against the lever, the stud being thus secured to the lever at any height to which it may be adjusted in the slot 130. This adjustable connection between the link 127 and lever 124 enables the length of the feeding movement of the spacing'finger 120 to be varied to vary the spacing of the buttons. The segmental slot 130 is formed so that when the lever 124 is at the forward extreme of its movement the slot is concentrio with the pivot 227, that connects the link 127 withthe arm orcarrier 121. This arrangement insures the return of the button-finger 120 to an unvarying starting position whatever .may be the length of its throw, so that it is always at the same distance from the button before starting to tip the latter.

The operation is as follows: At the commencement of the operation the needle is raised and the swinging carrier in position to guide the needle through the eye of the button held by the jaw 19 in posit-ion to receive the primary loop. The loop-bender 77 and the loop-spreader 86 are swung to the left of the path of the needle, leaving the latter unobstructed, and the button-tipping finger 120 stands in front of the path of the needle or between the needle and the operator, who faces the side of the machine shown in Fig. 1. The presser-foot 28 is at this time free to be depressed by the operator to permit the insertion of the work, a recess 310, Fig. 17, in the under side of the cam-slot 31 being under the trundle-roll 30 on the presser-bar, so that the latter is pressed upward yieldiugly by the spring 311. The operator thus inserts the work between the presser-foot and thebed-plate2t5. 'lheneedlethen commences to descend and at the same time the slide 32 moves to bring the portion 312 of the camslot under the trundle-roll 30, thus locking the presser-foot against the work, so that the foot rigidly opposes the thrust of the needle while it is penetrating the work. Just before the barb of the needle enters the eye of the button the clamping-jaw 19, which has been raised, as shown in Fig. 22, to permit the button-eye to slide freely against the stop 10, descends onto the eye, as shown in Fig. 23, clamping it firmly against. the eye-supporting member 9 of the chute. The barb of the needle then descends through the eye and the work and the looper moves to present the thread to the barb. The controlling-roll105, which before the movement of the looper was in the position shown in Fig. 7, moves simultaneously with the looper and in the direction of the arrow,Fig. 7, to the position shown in Fig. 7, and thus releases sufficient thread for the primary loop. The needle then rises and draws the primary loop 136 through the eyeof the button, as shown in Fig. 2st. When the barb of the needle rises above the loop bender 77, the latterswings from the position shown in Fig. 18 to that shown'in Fig. 19, bending the loop below the point of the needle and holding it so that at the next descent of the needle it will pass through the primaryloop. The head tl thenswings forward toward the operator, thus changing the path of the needle, as shown in Fig. 25. The needle then descends through the primary loop and the work outside the eye of the button. The looper, which before this movement of the needle had returned to its starting position, now moves again to present the thread to the barb of the needle. The needle then rises and draws up the secondary loop 137 through the work and through the primary loop, the controlling-roll remaining in position shown in Fig. 7 until the needle in rising has taken up the primary loop, drawing the latter down onto the eye of the button, as shown in Fig. 26. Before the completion of the upward movement of the needle the controlling-roll'105 moves in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 7, to the position shown in Fig. 7, making a halfrotation or more and delivering to the needle practically all the thread that in Fig. 7 is held on the periphery of the roll, the thread so delivered being sufficient to enable the needle to complete the secondary loop. The needle rises higher in forming the secondary loop than in forming the primary loop, more thread being required. The spreader swings from the position shown in Fig. 19 toward the right just after the point of the needle has risen above the spreader, the hook 88 being thus caused to engage the inner side of the secondary loop, as shown in Fig. 20, and move it to the right and backwardly from the operator while the loop is held by the raised needle, the loop-bender 77 having moved back to its starting position just after the hook 88 engages the loop. While the hook S8 is moving, as last described, the needle descends from the position shown in Fig. 20 to that shown in Fig. 21, releasing enough thread to enable the hook 8b to carry the inner strand of the loop backwardly to the position shown in Fig. 21. While the needle is descending, as last described, the secondary cast-off 99 moves under the needle, with its eye 102 in position to receive the point of the needle preparatory to castin off the secondary loop from the needle. The downward movement of the-needle is arrested just before the barb enters the eye 102, so that the loop is retained by the needle until the finger 89 of the spreader presses against the other strand of the secondary loop directly below the secondary castoif and prevents the said strand from being pushed out of place by the forward movement ofthe secondary cast-off to position under the needle. This finger 89 is used as a safeguard against the possibility of displacement of the outer strand by the secondary cast-off and is not relied on as an essential element, the machine being operative without it. The secondary loop is now held by the needle and the spreader-hook 88 in a substantially triangular position adjacent to the button,as shown in Fig. 27, the button being still confined on its side in the chute by the jaw 19. The said jaw now rises to the position shown in Fig. 28, forming an opening between its lower edge and the eye-supporting member 9 for the outward passage of the button-head. The ejector 11 now rises to the position shown in Fig. 14 and pushes the button from the chute and through the secondary loop, as shown in Figs. 14 and 29. The button-holder then descends to its first position (shown in Figs. 22 and 29) and bears against the head of the button, preventingit from tipping back into the chute. The needle then dips or descends sufficiently to insert its barb in the eye of the secondary cast-off, thus releasing the secondaryloop from the barb,leaving said loop free to be taken up. The controlling-roll now moves in the direction of the arrow in Fig. 7 to the position shown in Fig. 7, and not only takes up the secondary loop, but also draws from the supply end through the tension device 119 enough thread for the next set of loops, the thread being accumulated on the periphery of the roll and taking the course shown in Fig. 8. \Vhile the controlling-roll is moving as last described, the spreader moves back to its starting position, Fig. 19, its hook 88 first holding the loop in the position shown in Figs. 30 and 30 and then releasing the loop. While the. spreader and controller-roll are moving as last described, the head 41 moves back to its starting position. The loops now form what may be termed an incipient knot, the tightening or completion of which is effected by the tipping of the button, as next described. After the controlling-roll has taken up the secondary loop and while it is held in the position shown in Fig. 7, the button-finger 120 moves from the operator against the head of the button, tipping it from the position shown in Figs. 31 and 31 to the position shown in Fig. 32, thus causing the secondary loop, which before had a bearing on the eye at its shank portion, to slip downwardly under the eye and also causing one side of the button-head to bear on the upper side of the bed-plate 2G and the upper edge of the eye-supporting member 9, as shown in Fig. 1 Said bed-plate and supporting member also constitute means for guiding the button while it is being moved to feed the work. The thread is now positively held or locked by the controller, andthe pressure of the spacing-finger against the upper side of the button-head causes the eye to swing upwardly from the work and to pull portions of the thread of the primary loop upwardly through the secondary loop, as shown in Figs. 32 and 33. The strain thus exerted on the primary loop draws its neck or bight, which lies across the strands of the secondary loop, downwardly on said. strands and draws the bights of both loops inwardly toward each other, and thus causes the two loops to be interlocked or tightened each around the other, so tightening the knot that it cannot be caused to slip by strain tending to pull the button away from the work, the sides of the portion of the primary loop thus pulled through the secondary loop being drawn together under the eye, as shown in Figs. 33 and 33. This operation turns the button-eye so that it stands substantially crosswise of the stretches of thread between each button and the next, as indicated in Figs. 33 and 34, the eye being thus turned by the increased pressure of the strands of the primary loop on the inner surface of the eye. Another result of the tipping of the button is the location of the button-eye between the points where the thread passes through the work. While the button is being tipped by the button-finger, the supply end of the thread is firmly held or locked by the controller-roll, so that the upward movement of the button-eye caused by the tipping action takes up all the slack thread of the two loops without drawing from the thread-supply. The presser-foot is depressed by the portion 313, Fig. 17, of the slide 32 just as the finger 120 commences to tip the button and releases its hold on the Work. Just after the button has been tipped the thread-controller moves in the direction of the arrow in Fig. 7 back to the position shown in Fig. 7, thus releasing enough thread to permit the feeding of the Work by the button-finger, the Work being thereby moved to form the desired space between the buttons. This space can be varied by adjusting the connection between the lever 124 and link 127, as already described. The presser-foot is then released and is raised by its spring, and the spacing-finger returns to its starting position. This completes a cycle of movement of the machine, the driving-pulley being disconnected from the driving-shaft at this point.

I attach great importance to the tipping of the button to draw the primary loop upwardly into the eye of the button. This is entirely new, so far as i am aware. Heretofore the final tightening of the loops to form what I have called a square knot in my Patent No.

268,369, hereinbefore referred to, has been effected solely by a pull on the supply end of the thread while the button was in an upright position-that is, with its eye standing sub stantially at a right angle with the plane of the work-so that the necks or bights of the two loops were not drawn toward each other under the eye of the button to pinch or bring together the strands of the primary loop between the eye and the work. Hence the loops when completed were relatively loose and were capable of slipping to some extent when an outward pull was exerted on the button. By tipping the button after the loop-takingup action of the machine has ceased I cause the button-eye to take up all the looseness that existed before the button was tipped and form what may be considered as a hard bowknot, of which the only parts that project above the underside of the eye are the strands of the primary loop that pass through the eye, all other portions being drawn tightly down upon the work. This improved knot is free from all liability to slip and holds the end buttons of the series as firmly as the intermediate buttons, any pull on the buttons away from the material tending to tighten the knot.

It is obvious that the function of the button-tipping finger may end with the operation of tipping the button and that the feeding of the work may be accomplished by hand or by other means. In the embodiment of my invention here shown the adjustability of the throw of the tipping-finger is such that its forward movement may be caused to simply tip the button and complete the formation of the hard bow-knot without feeding the work.

Another advantage resulting from the described improvement is the saving of thread caused by the tightening of the knot.

The outward pull exerted on the button-eye is an important factor in the knot-tightening operation, and while this pull is most advantageously exerted by the tipping of the button for various reasons, among which is the releasing of the secondary loop from the side of the eye, I do not limit myself to this manner of effecting the said pull, as any other means of utilizing the power of the machine to lift or pull the eye outwardly against the locked supply-thread is regarded as within the scope of my invention.

I do not limit myself to the mechanical details hereinbefore described and illustrated in the drawings, and the same may be variously modified and mechanical equivalents thereof substituted without departing from the spirit of my invention.

The thread-controlling roll, with its diametrical thread-passage open at its ends on the periphery of the roll, constitutes a double acting reel, which exerts a positive grasp or locking hold on the thread when in either of the positions shown in Figs. 7, 7, and 7. Hence it. acts immediately on leaving the position shown in Fig. '7 to positively control the thread and either take up, let out, or rigidly hold the same, as the case may be.

Havingthus explained the nature of my invention and described a way of constructing and using the same, although without having attempted to set forth all the forms in which it may be embodied or all the modes of its use, I declare that what I claim is 1. In a machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, the combination of button-supplying mechanism, knot-forming mechanism organized to form a plurality of loops, one of which passes through and the other around the button-eye, thread-controlling mechanism having provisions for taking up the thread of each knot and positively locking thesupply-thread after the thread has been taken up, and means for lifting the button-eye while the supplythread is locked,whereby the bight of one loop is caused to slip under the button-eye and both bights are drawn inwardly to tighten the knot.

2. In a machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, the combination of button-supplying mechanism, knot-forming mechanism organized to form an incipient knot, means for tipping the button and thereby raising its eye, and means for positively locking the supplythread while the button is being tipped,where by the tipping of the button is caused to tighten the knot.

3. In a machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, the combination of button -supplying mechanism, knot-forming mechanism organized to form an incipient knot, a button-head support, a button-finger adapted to strike one side of a button-head after the formation of the incipient knot and thereby force the other side against the support to raise the eye, and means for holding the supply-thread while the button is being tipped, whereby the tipping of the button is caused to tighten the knot.

4. In a machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, the combination of button-supplying mechanism, knot-forming mechanism organized to form a pluralityof loops, one of which passes through and the other around the button-eye, a button-support, button-tipping means, and means for holding the supplythread while the but-ton is being tipped,w'hereby the bight of one loop is caused to slip n11- der the button-eye and both bights are drawn inwardly to tighten the knot.

5. A machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, comprising button-feeding mechanism, a button-support, knot-forming mechanism organized to form a plurality of loops, one of which passes through and the other around the button -eye, mechanism for tipping the button against said button support to tighten the knot, and means for holding the supplythread while the button is being tipped.

6. A machine for sewing shank-eyed buthaving a back-and-forth movement above the work and arranged to strike the button last attached during its forward movement and thereby feed the work, and mechanism for operating the spacing device, the said button-head support and foot constituting guides between which the work is moved when the foot is depressed.

7. A machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, comprising button-supplying mechanism, knot-forming mechanism, a button-head support above the work, a button-engaging finger having a back and forth movement above the work and arranged to strike the head of the button last attached, mechanism for giving said finger a forward and back movement of sufficient length to cause the finger during its forward movement to first tip the button-head over against the support to tighten the knot, and then move the button and the work to feed the work, and means for holding the supply-thread while the button is being tipped.

S. A machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, comprising button-supplying n1echanism, knot-forming mechanism, a button-head support above the work, a button-engaging finger having a back and forth movement above the work and arranged to strike the head of the button last attached, a finger-operating cam, an oscillatory lever engaged with the cam, a link connected with the but-' ton-engaging finger, and an adjustable connection between said link and the oscillatory lever, whereby the throw of the finger may be adjusted, said adjustable connection having provisions for moving the finger to an unvarying starting position.

9. A machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, comprising button-supplying mechanism, knot-forming mechanism, a work-support below the work,abutton-engaging finger having a back-and-forth movement above the work and arranged to strike the head of the button last attached, a finger-operating cam, an oscillatory lever engaged with the cam and having a segmental slot, a link connected at one end by a pivot with the carrier of said finger and having at the other end a stud which is adjustable in said slot to vary the throw of the finger, the slot being concentric with the said pivot when the lever is at the forward extreme of its movement, whereby the finger is moved to an unvarying starting position, regardless of the adjustment of the connection between the finger and link.

10. A machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, comprising button-supplying mechanism, loop-forming mechanism having provisions for forming aseries of loops into an incipient knot engaged with a button-eye, and thread-controlling mechanism having provisions for positively engaging the thread at a point between the loop-forming mechanism and the thread-supply and pulling the thread positively from the said loop'forming mechanism and thread-supply to simultaneously take up the thread of each knot and measure off a predetermined length of thread for the next series of loops.

11. A machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, comprising button-supplying mechanism, loop-forming mechanism having provisions for forming a series of loops into an incipient knot engaged with a button-eye, a work-feeding mechanism, and thread-controlling mechanism having provisions for posi tively engaging the thread at a point between the loop-forming mechanism and the threadsupply, pulling the thread positively from the loop-forming mechanism and the thread-supply to simultaneously take up the thread of each knot and measure off a sufficient length of thread for the next series of loops and for the stretch of thread between two adjacent knots and delivering a portion of the measured-off thread to the feeding mechanism.

12. A machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, comprising button-supplying mechanism, loop-forming mechanism having provisions for forming a primary and a secondary loop and for passing one through and the other around the eye of a button, and threadcontrolling mechanism having provisions for positively engaging the thread at a point between the loop-forming mechanism and the thread-supply and pulling the thread positivelyfrom the said loop-forming mechanism and thread-supply to simultaneously take up the thread of each knot and measure off a predetermined length of thread for the next series of loops.

13. A machine for sewing shank-eyed butions, comprising button-supplying mechanism, loop-forming mechanism having provisions for forming a primary and a secondary loop and for passing one. through and the other around the eye of a button, button tipping and feeding mechanism, and thread-controlling mechanism having provisions for releasing supply-thread to the loop-forming mechanism for each loop, locking the thread after the formation of each loop, taking up the thread after the formation of the secondary loop, and releasing thread after the button has been tipped and while it is being fed.

14. In a machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, the combination with button-supplying and knot-forming mechanism, of an inverted bed-plate, a work-supporting presser-foot movable toward and from the bed-plate to clamp and release the work, and mechanism for alternately locking and releasing said presserfoot, whereby the foot is held rigidly in its work-clamping position to resist the downward thrust of the needle of the knot- ICS forming mechanism and is free to be depressed below said position after the formation of the knot.

15. A machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, comprising loop-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle having two paths of movement, a stationary button-chute and a positively-actuated clamp cooperating with a portion thereof for holding a buttoneye in the path first taken by the needle, whereby the needle passes in its first descent through the eye of a button held by the stationary chute, and in its next descent outside the said eye.

16. A machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, comprising loop-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle having two paths of movement, a stationary button-chute, a positively-actuated clamp cooperating with a portion thereof for holding a button-eye in the path first taken by the needle, whereby the needle passes in its first descent through the eye of a button held by the stationary chute, and in its next descent outside the said eye, and automatic means independent of the stationary chute, for removing the button from the chute.

17. A button-sewing machine comprising a button-supplying mechanism, and a loopforming mechanism having the following instrumentalities, namely: first, a reciprocating hooked needle having two paths of movement, whereby the needle is adapted to draw a primary loop through. the eye of a button presented by the supplying mechanism, and a secondary loop outside of said eye and through the primary loop; secondly, a primary cast-0d which releases the primary loop from the needle; thirdly, a loop-bender which bends the primary loop while the needle is descending through it; fourthly, a loopspreader which engages one strand of the secondary loop while the raised needle is engaged with said loop; and fifthly, a secondary cast-off which releases the secondary loop fromthe needle while the loop is held by the spreader.

18. A machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, comprising button-supplying mechanism, a needle-bar having a hooked needle, means for reciprocating the needle-bar, a carrier supporting and guiding the needle-bar, means for moving the carrier to cause the needle to pass alternately through and outside the eye of a button presented by the supplying mechanism to form successively a primary and a secondary loop, a primary and a secondary cast-off supported by the carrier,mechanism for successively operating said cast offs, a primary loop-bender also supported by the carrier,mechanism for operating said loopbender, a spreader-shaft journaled in the carrier and having a spreader-hook arranged to enter the secondary loop, and mechanism for rocking or reversely rotating the spreadershaft to cause its hook to alternately engage and release the secondary loop.

19. A machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons,comprisingacarrier,mechanismfor holding it in different positions, a needle-bar movable in said carrier and having a hooked needle, mechanism for reciprocating the needlebar, a spreader-shaft journaled in the carrier at one side of the needle-bar, a spreader-hook affixed to the shaft and projecting from one side thereof, and mechanism for operating the shaft to cause the spreader-hook to move first from an inoperative position at one side of the path of the needle, across said path and to the opposite side thereof, to engage one strand of a loop held by the needle and spread said loop, and then return to said inoperative position.

20. A machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, comprising button-supplying mechanism, loop-forming mechanism organized to form a primary and a secondary loop, the former passing through and the latter outside the eye of a button, and a spreader-plate affixed to a rock-shaft and having a spreaderhook which moves in a plane substantially at right angles with the path of movement of the needle and is advanced by a movement of the rock-shaft into the secondary loop to engage one strand of the same.

21. A machine for sewing shank-eyed buttons, comprising loop-forming mechanism organized to form a primary and a secondary loop, the former passing through and the latter outside the eye of a button, and a spreaderplate affixed to a rock-shaft and having a spreader-hook which is advanced by a movement of the rock-shaft into the secondary loop to engage one strand of the same, and a finger which follows the hook to bear on the other strand of the loop.

In testimony whereof I have affixed my signature in presence of two witnesses.

JOSEPH MATI-IISON. l/Vit-nessesz (J. F. BROWN, A. D. HARRISON.

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