US668277A - Sewing-machine attachment for making braid trimming. - Google Patents

Description

No. 668,277. Patented m.- I9, moi. s. ARONSON.

SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT FOR MAKING BBAID TRIMMING.

(Application filed Nov. 2, 1899.)

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No. 668,277. Patented Feb. l9, I90l. S. ARUNSON. SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT FOR MAKING BRAID T RIMMING.

( Application filed Nov. 2, 1899.)

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No. 668,277, Patented Feb. l9, lam.

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SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT FOR MAKING BRA-ID TRI MMING.

(Application filed Nov. 2, 1899.) (No Model.)

Unite SAUL ARONSON, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO IGNATZ SHUSTER, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

SEWlNG-MACHINE ATTACHMENT FOR MAKING BRAID TRlMMlNG.

SPECIFICATION formingpart of Letters Patent No. 668,277, dated February 19, 1901..

Application filed November 2, 1899. Serial No. 736,565. (No model.)

T0 at, whom it may concern.-

Be it known thatl, SAUL ARONSON, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Brooklyn, Kings county, State of New York, have invented a Sewing-Machine Attachment for Making Braid Trimming, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to sewing-machines, and has for its object to provide the same with means for feeding, laying, and folding a braid or ribbon across the path of the regular feed of the machine to form a braid trimming. In carrying out my invention I have embodied these means, which virtually form an auxiliary feed, in an attachment which may be applied at will to the sewing-machine.

In the accompanying drawings,showing my improved attachment as applied to a machine in which the regular feed is accomplished by a feed-foot, Figure l is an end view of so much of a sewing-machine as is necessary to illustrate my invention with my improved attachment applied. Fig. 2 is a plan view of said attachment and showing its position in relation to the presser-foot, needle, and feed-foot. Fig. 3 is an elevation of the said attachment looking at Figs. 1 and 2 from the right-hand side. 2 and 3. Figs. 5, 6, and 7 are respectively a side, front, and plan view of an improved foot especially adapted for use with my improvements. Fig.8 shows a modified form of the feed-foot shown in Figs. 1 and 2. Figs. 9, 10, and 11 represent certain varieties of trimming that may be manufactured by means of my improvements.

Referring to Figs. 1 and 2, the frame 1 of the attachment is secured to the bed-plate 2 of the machine in front of the feed-foot 3 and the presser-foot 4, through which the needle 5 passes. The feed-foot 3 has practically a rectangular movementimparted to it-thatis, from the position shown in Fig. 1 it descends so that its serrated under side engages with the material being operated upon,then moves backward to feed the material, then rises out of engagement with the material, and then moves forward above the material back into the position shown, ready to again come down upon a fresh part of the material. The feeding part of this motion takes place between Fig. 4 is a section on line 4 4 of Figs.

each stitch, and when the feed-foot 3 is in its raised position the presser-foot 4 holds the material firmly while the needle passes through it-that is,the feed-foot 3 and stitching mechanism constantly operate together,alternately acting upon the materiahas is usual with sewing-machines, whether the feed is above or below the material. With the exception of the shape of the feed-foot, which in this case constitutes a measuring device, the parts 3 4 5 here shown are taken from a well-known embroidering-machine known as the Oornely machine, and need no further description as to the mechanism for operating them.

The band 6 of braid or ribbon is passed from its reel through suitable tension devices and guides, as is customary in braiding-machines, to the carrier 7, through the slot 8 in carrier, (see Fig. 2,) and is laid under the feed-foot 3 before the machine is started. By means hereinafter explained the carrier 7 guides the braid 6 back and forth across the path of the regular feed,(the path of the slot 8 being indicated by the dotted lines 0;, Fig. 2,) and the motions of the carrier '7, the regular feed and stitching mechanism so cooperate that the following result is obtained: As the feed-foot 3 is clamped down upon a fold of the braid lying in one direction it covors half (or part of) the width of the braid at the place where the next fold'should take place, and when the carrier 7 draws the braid in the opposite direction a fold forms at this place over the foot 3, whereby the widthof the foot 3 determines the width of the folds or loops. The feed-foot moves backward, the presserfoot 4 comes down and holds the folded braid while the feed -foot rises and the needle 5 makes a stitch, and before the presser-foot 4 rises the feed-foot having advanced comes down on the material to feed it again after the needle has been withdrawn. Each time the carrier 7 moves from one end of path 00 to the other the braid is folded; but these motions of the carrier are preferably so timed in relation to the feedfoot and stitching mechanism that the carrier is maintained at either end of its path during two or more motions of the feed-foot in order that two or more stitches are made between each folding operation to hold the folds securely in place. In

Fig. 2 is represented a portion of the completed trimming having two stitches taken across the width of the braid between each loop. In this figure the parts are shown in their respective positions atthe beginning of' the second feed motion for the fold, and as the foot 3 begins to move backward the car i 20, pawl-carrier 22, and pawl 25, and the acrier 7 begins to move-to form-another fold.

From the foregoing it will be seen that with my attachment there are virtually two intermittent feeds-the regular feed constantly codperating with the needle and the auxil iary or cross feed codperating with the first feed preferably only at intervals. Also it is evident that this feed-foot 3 has three differ-- ent f u nctionsfirst, to m easu re and determine the width of the completed trimming; second, to feed thetrimming asit is stitched,.and, third, to alternate with the .presser-foot 4 to press upon and maintain the foldslin place until they are stitched. In machines having an underfeedithis measuring pressure-foot would operate in unison with the feed.

Mechanism for operating the crss-feed..

Referring to Figs. 1 and 2, the carrier 7is secured to a runner 9at a suitable height in relation to the feed-foot 3 to properly feed the braid, and a stop 10 is pivoted to the runrunner 9 is .pivotallymounted on the lever 13 and is provided with rollers 14, bearing against the cam-surface 15 of the frame-of the attachment.

This cam-surface 15 is so calculated that as the lever 13 is turned on the axis 16 the rollers 14 will holdthe runner 9 in such a position that the slot 8 in the carrier 7 travels in the path indicated at w in Fig. 2 for the purpose of carrying the braid anism may be employed to rot-ate the camwheel 18: An operating-lever 19 20 is pivoted to the frame 1 ofthe attachment and is .so constructed that its arm 19 is hit by a moving part 21 of the regular mechanism of the machine at each operation of the feeding mechanism. As this moving part 21 descends from the position shown in Fig. 1 it carries the arm 19 with it, thus moving the arm 20 upward. The free end of arm 20 bears against the pawl-carrier 22, mounted to turn on the shaft 23, and as the arm 20 rises it moves the said pawl-carrier 22 in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 4, against the action of spring 24.

The pawl 25, pivoted to the pawl-carrier 22, engages with the cog-wheel 26 and turns the latter one tooth at each forward motion of the pawl. The cog-wheel 26 and cam-Wheel 18 are secured together and rotate on the shaft 23. Owing to the swift running of sew ing-machines, the quick motion of lever 19 quired momentum tend to turn the cog-wheel .26 farther than one cog at a time; but the square nose 27 of the pawl prevents this. A

spring-pawl 28 prevents the backward motion of the cog-wheel 26, When the moving part 21 has released the lever 19 20, the spring 24 tends toreturn the pawl-carrier 22 to the position shown in Fig. 4. To disengage the pawl from thecog-wheel, a trip-lever 29 is provided, which on the forward motion of the pawl is raised out of the way against the action of the spring 30 by the stud 31 on the pawl 25, and on the return motion of the pawl presents its projection 32 in the way of the stud 31 and causes this stud to ride up over'the projection, thus lifting the pawl 25 out of engagement with the cog-wheel 26. When the trip-lever 29 releases the pawl 26, the spring 33 returns the latter into engagement,- with the cog-wheel 26.

From the foregoing itwill be seen that the cog-wheel 26 and cam-wheel18 are moved step by step at each motion of the feeding mechanism; but the cam-wheel is so formed .that it will only move the forked arm 17 at intervals of .two stitches. By substituting other cam-wheels it is evident that theforked arm 17 maybe moved at other intervals that is, at every stitch,atever-y third or fourth stitch, .&c.,or evenatirregular intervals. A spring 24 bears .upon one of two flat surfaces on the lever 13 and arm 17 to aid in quickly changing the position of the carrier 7 from .one extreme end of its path to the other as soon as the forks of the arm 17 begin to'be move .by the cam-wheel 18. I

Diflercnt forms of t'rt'mming.Referring now to Fig. 2,-the feed-foot 3 is forked and the outer edge=of each fork is equally-distant from the needle. With such a measuring feed-foot the trimming will be formed as represented .in Fig. 2, the stitching being down the center and the folds of equal width on each side thereof. As trimming of this kind is meant to be stitched upon garments and the originalstitching that held the trimming pulled out to have as little stitching as possible showing on the finished garment, it is preferable to have this first stitching (in making the trimming) a little to one side of the -center,whereby the second stitching will not interfere with the easy unraveling of the first. To accomplish this, I may use a measuring feed-foot, such as shown in Fig. 8that is, a foot having the outer side of one branch farther from the needle than thatof theother branch 36. With this foot a trimming is made having this first stitching toone side of the center,as shown in Fig. 9. It is evident position or their positions, whereby different forms of trimming may be manufactured. 'Iwo varieties are shown in Figs. 10 and 11.

Referring to Figs. 5 to 7, the measuring feed-foot is provided with two branches 37 38, mounted on pivot-rods 39 and 40, respec tively. By Way of example only I have here shown a construction adapted to change the position or positions of one or both of these branches 37 38; but I do not limit myself to this construction, as any suitable mechanism may be substituted to accomplish the same result.

To the foot-bar 41 is secured a bracket 42. The pivot-rods 39 40 are passed through their hearings in the said bracket, their bent arms 43 44 resting on the upper part of the bracket, and the branches 37 38 are then secured to the lowerends of the rods. The bracket 42 is forked at the rear and supports a spindle 45, on which are mounted a ratchet 46 be tween the forks and two cams 47 48 outside the forks. By removing the nuts 49 and the washers 50 other cams may be readily substituted for cams 47 48. Loosely mounted on the spindle 45 is a pawl-carrier 5], having a tail 52 engaged between pins 53 on the post 54, secured to the bed-plate 2 of the machine, so t-hatas the foot-bar 41 and bracket 42 rise or fall the pawl-carrier 51 will be turned on the spindle 45. The spring-pawl 55 engages with the ratchet 46, and as the bracket 42 rises the ratchet is rotated by the pawl in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 5, and when the bracket 42 descends the pawlcarrier turns back and the pawl 55 drags over the ratchet 46. The arms 43 44 of the pivotrods, carrying the branches 37 38, are held against the edges of the cams 47 and 48 by a spring 56,so that each time the foot-bar 41 rises and the cams 47 and 48 are consequently slightly rotated the cams act upon the arms 43 44 to move the latter back and forth according to the contour of the can], the arms 43 44 being turned rotate the pivot-rods 39 40, and thus move the branches 37 38 nearer to or farther from the needle 5, so that these branches may measure and determine different widths offolds of the braid. The cams 4748 (shown in the drawings) will cause the measuring-foot to expand and contract gradually and regularly, so that the trimming formed has represented in Fig. 10. It is evident t at if one of these cams 47 or 48 is a trifle .rger than the other the-foot will be mainined relatively wider at one side of the needle than at the other side and the stitch ing will be a trifle off the center of the trimming.

If in place of the cam 47 or 48 a plain circular wheel is substituted, only one branch of the measuring-foot will change its position and a trimming will be formed such as represent-ed in Fig. 11, or if anv other peculiar outline is desired the cams 47 and 48 may be replaced by cams having contours calculated to produce such outlines.

In conclusion I may add that by the special construction of the auxiliary feed and of the measuring device a single-needle machine is made to produce what has been hitherto accomplished only by two-needle machines that is, the folds or loops of the trimming are firmly held by a single line of stitching. Moreover, by timing the parts so that a cross- :feed takes place only at every two or more stitches braid of any width may be manufactured into trimmings, and my measuring device enables me to produce trimmings of different widths.

I claim as my invention 1. In asewing-machine, the combination of a single-needle mechanism, with a guide adapted to carry a braid back and forth in front of the needle to form loops each side of the single line of stitching of said machine, the said guide operating at every two or more stitches, and means for reversing the braid at each change of direction of the guide so that the opposite faces of the braid are alternately presented uppermost.

2. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a feed-foot, and means for operating the same, with a braid-carrier, the said foot and said carrier operating one at an angle to the other, and means for moving the said braidcarrier intermittently from one end of its ICC path to the other and maintaining it at either end during two or more motions of the feedfoot.

3. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a feed-foot and means for operating the same, with a braid-guide adapted to cooperate with said foot to fold a braid or ribbon over the edge of the foot alternately on one side and then on the other.

4. In a sewingmachine, a reciprocating foot and means for automatically changing the width thereof at any predetermined interval of reciprocation.

5. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a needle, with afoot and means for automatically changing the width thereof and maintaining the outer edge of one side of the foot farther from the needle than the outer edge of the other side.

6. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a needle, with a foot, and means for automatically varying the distance between the needle and the outer edge of either side of the foot to any predetermined extent and at any predetermined interval.

7. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a braid-carrier adapted to guide a braid or chine, and means for automatically varying ribbon alternately back and forth across the the width of the folds.

path of the regular feed, with a foot cooper- In testimony whereof I have signed my ating With said carrier to fold the braid and name to this specification in the presence of 5 determine the Width of the folds, and means two subscribing Witnesses.

for intermittently contracting and expanding the said foot to vary the width of the folds. SAUL ARONSON 8. A sewing-machine provided with means Witnesses: for laying a braid or ribbon in folds at an an- O. O. CHIPMAN, Io gle to the path of the regular feed of the lna- EDITH J. GRISWOLD.

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