US466111A - Method of cutting patterns for garments - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.)

0. A. AMELANG. METHOD OF GUTTING PATTERNS FOR GARMENTS. No. 466,111. I Patented Dec. 29,1891.

INVEN'TEIIRL- %/xm/M,

UNITED STATES PATENT, OFFICE.

CHARLES A. AMELANG, OF BALTIMORE, MARYLAND.

METHOD OF CUTTING PATTERNS FOR GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 466,111, dated December 29, 1891'.

Application filed August 4:, 1891. Serial No. 401,640. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, CHARLES A. AMELANG, of Baltimore, Maryland, have invented oer tain Improvements in Methods of OuttingPatterns for Garments and in the Patterns Eniployed in the Same, of which the followingis a specification.

In the description of the said invention which follows reference is made to the accompanying drawings, forming a part hereof, in which- Figure 1 is a view of a sheet of paper illustrating the first steps which are taken in drafting a pattern of a garment-such as a coat-accordin g to the sizes obtained from the person to be fitted; and Fig 2 illustrates the completed patterns. Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2, except that the patterns are difierently placed, as will hereinafter fully appear.

WVith the methods of cutting garments now generally used difficulty is experienced in effecting a proper fit around the arm and at the waist, owing, principally, to the fact that in forming the seams which unite the fronts with the sides the original curved line under the arm is drawn down, and the point formed by the intersection of the said curved line with the line at the rear of the side piece falls below the corresponding point in the back, and in effecting a compromised position, so as to remedy this defect, the garment is drawn out of shape and an accurate fit cannot be had.

Referring to Fig. 1, A is a sheet of paper upon which are marked the construction-lines a, b, 0, 61,8, f, and g, which are platted according to measurements taken from the person to be fitted. This sheet is now out by the lines B and G into the unfinished patterns of the front, side, and back, (represented, respectively, by D, E, and F.) It will be seen that the curved line G, which represents the line of the armhole of the back pattern, is continued by the construction line g, which is the theoretical line of the armhole in the side pattern and before my present invention was adopted as a part of the cutting-line. The front and side patterns are now out, as shown by the dotted lines it and 2', to reduce the width of the same at the bottom, and also to give a curved seam instead of a straight one when the two parts are united, and the armhole-line I in the front pattern completed, as shown in Fig. 2.

Referring again to Fig. 2, the front and side patterns are lapped at j, which brings the construction-line c of the side pattern out of alignment with the portions of the same line on the front and back, and throws the curved construction-line g, which, as before stated, represented the theoretical armholeline down out of its original position. Now, taking the line G as a starting-curve, the line H, which is the proper armhole-line of the side pattern, is out so as to connect with and form a continuation of the lines G and I, which completes the armhole. The new line It is now drawn, but merely for the purpose. of adjusting the side pattern to show how the theoretical armhole-line has been modified in practice. (See Fig. 3, which shows the patterns in the same relative positions which they occupied in Fig. 1.) By an examination of this figure it will be seen that in cutting the side pattern an extension J has been left thereon.

Referring again to Fig. 2, it will be seen that if the points a; 00 had been brought together the garment would have been out of shape, and this defect could not have been remedied by any subsequent manipulation of the parts, as the side pattern would have been too small.

It will be understood that the line H could not have been laid off by any systemof measurement other than the one described, as until the side seams are cut and the edges are lapped, as shown in Fig. 2, the length and curve of the extension J could not be ascertained.

I claim as my invention The improved method of cutting patterns for garments herein described, which consists in cutting the material of the patterns into unfinished front, side, and back sections, then cutting the portion ,of the armhole in the front and back sections, then lapping the front and side sections, and then cutting out the lower portion of the armhole in the side section to form a continuation of the armhole portions of the front and back sections, substantially as specified.

CHARLES A. AMELANG.

Witnesses:

WM. T. HOWARD, J NO. T. MADDOX.

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