US3628475A - Device for sewing plush fabrics or furs - Google Patents
Device for sewing plush fabrics or furs Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- US3628475A US3628475A US44794A US3628475DA US3628475A US 3628475 A US3628475 A US 3628475A US 44794 A US44794 A US 44794A US 3628475D A US3628475D A US 3628475DA US 3628475 A US3628475 A US 3628475A
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- Prior art keywords
- pile
- spur
- sewing
- disposed
- furs
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-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
- D05B—SEWING
- D05B81/00—Sewing machines incorporating devices serving purposes other than sewing, e.g. for blowing air, for grinding
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
- D10B2501/044—Fur garments; Garments of fur substitutes
Definitions
- the invention relates to a means for sewing plush fabrics or furs which are covered on the pile or shag side, particularly an auxiliary device for performing such sewing operations.
- a pile or shag divider tail is employed which is arranged at the broad side of a flat support facing the pile side of the sewing material, and which tapers down in the direction of sewing in the manner of a wedge.
- the hairpile bordering on this area is made denser. Due to the elastic behavior of the hairs behind the location of parting (crest) the thickening partly loosens itself again, and the previously deviated hairs are forced back in the direction of the line of the crest. However, the denser the pile condition is, the stronger will be the pile thickening because of the cresting operation, and as a consequence also the Subsequent narrowing of the crest groove caused thereby.
- the magnitude of the resetting forces caused by the elasticity is inversely proportional to the intensity and to the time period with which the hairs were originally deviated out of their original position of orientation.
- this problem is dealt with by a device for sewing plush fabrics or furs that are covered at the pile or hair side by means of a divider tail device that separates the pile, which is provided on a flat support, the broad side of which faces the pile side of the work blank and which tapers down in the direction of sewing in wedgelike manner, where the pile divider tail has a duct that supplies air under pressure, the exit opening of which is provided on the side of the pile divider tail that is opposite from the pile side of the work blank in such a manner that a current of air acts on the sewing material in the direction of sewing.
- the device is constructed in a manner that the end piece of the pressure air duct extends substantially to the pile divider tail and the discharge opening is disposed in the plane of the narrow side of the support that faces the point of the pile divider tail.
- the crest alignment forces are effective during a relatively long period of time, so that also the elastic resetting forces resulting from cresting can reduce themselves considerably more.
- the result of the work of the device in accordance with the invention thus is comparable with the work result of a pile divider spur or tail of longer and broader construction, while the device in accordance with the invention does not possess the awkwardness of such divider tails.
- a further essential advantage is that hair pile pressed flat is loosened by the action of the pressure of the stream of air and thus facilitates the cresting. It must be noted that without being seized by the pile divider tail, flattened hairs slip along the outside of the divider tail and are then seized as the seam is formed.
- FIG. 1 is a perspective illustration of the pile divider for sewing plush fabrics or furs whose pile side may be exposed or covered up;
- FIG. la is a perspective illustration of part of a second embodiment of a pile divider or separator for sewing of plush fabrics or furs with the pile sides disposed against each other;
- FIG. 2 is a section along line II-II in FIG. la where the pile divider in accordance with FIG. la is Illl position of use;
- FIG. 3 illustrates the manner of operation of the embodiment of FIG. I with the pile hairs oriented transversely of the direction of sewing;
- FIG. 4 is a schematic illustration of the manner of operation of the pile divider in accordance with FIG. 1.
- the device in accordance with the invention comprises a flat support 1 which has a small tongue 2 at one of its ends and which expands at its other end to form a mounting plate or bar 3 provided with slots.
- a small spur or tail 4 is provided which serves for separating or cresting the pile. The tail 4 projects beyond the front narrow side 8 of the tongue 2 and tapers down to form a point 4.1L
- the device in accordance with the invention is employed with a sewing machine provided in a known manner with a needle N, a looper of any type desired (not illustrated), and any desired feeding means (likewise not illustrated), for feed ing the work blank to form a seam S.
- the device as shown in the direction of feed F of the work blank is fastened at any suitable location ahead of the stepper foot P of the machine and is oriented in a manner that the pile divider spur 4 is located above the work blank WI with its pile side FS facing upwardly and parallel to the direction of sewing.
- the pile divider point 4.1 is oriented in the direction D.
- Above the pile divider spur 4 and parallel thereto the end part 5 of a thin tubular conduit 6 is arranged in the tongue 2, which leads along the back side of the tongue 2 or of the support l and is connected with a supply of air under pressure (not shown).
- the discharge opening 7 of the conduit 6 is located at the forward narrow side 8 on the tongue 2.
- the air under pressure flows out of the side 4.2 of the pile divider spur 4 which is opposite from the pile side FS of the work blank W1 in the direction of the point 4.1 of the spur or tail.
- a further pile divider tail 9 that tapers into a point 9.1 is arranged in the upper broad side 1.2 of the support I vertically above the first pile divider tail 4 in the same direction of orientation for sewing together two plush fabrics or furs W1 and W2 that rest against each other with the pile sides FS as illustrated in FIGS. 1a and 2.
- the endpiece 5 of the tubular conduit 6 lies in this connection symmetrically between the pile divider tails 4, 9, so that the pressure air acts in an equal manner upon hairs of the lower end of the upper work blank W1 and W2.
- the direction of flow and the approximate distribution of the compressed air discharging out of the discharge opening 7 is indicated in FIG. 2 by three dot and dash arrows A.
- FIG. 3 explains the manner of operation of the pile divider in accordance with the invention in connection with an exposed hair pile, i.e., a hair pile which is not covered by a second work blank and whose hairs H are oriented transversely of the direction of sewing D.
- an exposed hair pile i.e., a hair pile which is not covered by a second work blank and whose hairs H are oriented transversely of the direction of sewing D.
- the hairs H are more or less aligned in the direction of sewing in front of the point 4.1 of the pile divider tail 4 (F10. la) and held in that position until they reach the pile divider tail 4.
- a similarly advantageous effect is applied by the compressed air also during the subsequent cresting operation.
- the hairs H which come in contact with the lateral aligning surfaces of the pile divider tail 4 are diverted at the place of contact laterally out of the plane of the crest.
- that part which is seized by the pile divider tail 4 which reaches from the point of contact to the point of the hairs H seized is furthermore maintained by the compressed air in a position parallel to the direction of sewing D which is now, however, laterally displaced with respect to the original position corresponding to the deviation.
- the hairs H seized by the lateral aligning surfaces are already removed out of the plane of the crest right in the beginning of the cresting operation along their entire length, so that also the elastic resetting forces which develop during cresting will have time to decrease.
- FIG. 4 The effect of the compressed air during the cresting operation is illustrated in FIG. 4 with a hair pile whose hairs H were already aligned originally in the direction of sewing D.
- the same effect may also be obtained with a hair pile aligned in any desired manner.
- the hairs H moved towards the cresting location were already aligned by the compressed air far ahead of the point 4.1 of the pile divider tail 4 in sewing direction D.
- the compressed air also applies a good aligning effect to the end of the projecting part of the pile divider tails 4, 9 which face the tongue 2, it may be suitable to widen the aperture 7 of the compressed air duct 6 in a lateral plane. This can be done, for example, by constructing it in the form of an elongated hole or slot.
- Device for sewing plush fabrics, furs and the like that are covered on the pile or hair side said device being positioned in advance of the needle and constituted by a generally flat support presenting a broad side, a spur disposed at the pile side of said broad side tapering in wedgelike manner from said broad side away from the needle to define a tip at its free end operative to divide the pile as the pile is moved thereagainst, and a duct for supplying compressed air having a discharge aperture aligned in a direction opposite to the direction 'of feeding of the work blanks and disposed at the end of said spur reniote from sai d tip and being operative to directa jet of air against the pile in a direction opposite to the direction of feeding of the work blanks.
- Device for sewing two plush fabrics or furs disposed with their pile or fur sides against one another said device being positioned in advance of the needle and comprising a generally flat support presenting a broad side and having a spur at the top and a spur at the bottom of said broad side, each said spur tapering in the direction away from said needle and from said broad side to end in a tip operative to divide the pile as the pile is moved thereagainst, and a duct for supplying compressed air having a discharge aperture aligned in a direction opposite to the direction of feeding of the work blanks and disposed between said spurs remote from the tips thereof and being operative to direct a jet of air against the pile of the two fabrics or furs disposed against one another.
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
Device for sewing plush fabrics or furs that are covered at the pile or hair side by means of a spur or tail that tapers in the manner of a wedge in the direction of sewing and divides the pile which is disposed at the broad side of a flat support facing the pile side of the work blank where a duct conducting air under pressure passes through the pile divider spur, the discharge opening of which is disposed on the side of the pile divider spur remote from the pile side of the work blank, so that a current of air acts in the direction of sewing upon the material being sewn.
Description
United States Patent Herbert Erb; Erhard Marionek; Walter Steinbach, all of Kaiserslautern, Germany [72] lnventors [21] AppLNo. 44,794
[22] Filed June 9,1970 [45] Patented Dec. 21,1971 [73] Assignee G.M. Plait AG Kaiserslautern, Rtjalz, Germany [54] DEVICE FOR SEWING PLUSH FABRICS 0R FURS 4 Claims, 5 Drawing Figs.
136, 20,16, 7, 8, 9,DIG. 3
Primary Examiner-41. Hampton Hunter Attorney-Robert H. Jacob ABSTRACT: Device for sewing plush fabrics or furs that are covered at the pile or hair side by means of a spur or tail that tapers in the manner ofa wedge in the direction of sewing and divides the pile which is disposed at the broad side of a flat support facing the pi1e side of the work blank where a duct conducting air under pressure passes through the pile divider spur, the discharge opening of which is disposed on the side of the pile divider spur remote from the pile side of the work blank, so that a current of air acts in the direction of sewing upon the material being sewn.
DEVICE FOR SEWING PLUSH FABRICS OR FURS BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The invention relates to a means for sewing plush fabrics or furs which are covered on the pile or shag side, particularly an auxiliary device for performing such sewing operations.
It is necessary in order to produce straight fastening seams in plush fabrics or furs that the hair pile in front of the stitch location in the area of the seam line is spread apart to expose the base fabric or base material. For this purpose a pile or shag divider tail is employed which is arranged at the broad side of a flat support facing the pile side of the sewing material, and which tapers down in the direction of sewing in the manner of a wedge. As the hair pile is separated with such devices the result of the crest or vertex forming depends essentially on how dense the condition of the hair pile is and in what position of orientation the pile hairs of the material are fed or moved toward the location of the crest or vertex.
During cresting due to the lateral deflecting of the hairs located in the area of the pile divider tail, the hairpile bordering on this area is made denser. Due to the elastic behavior of the hairs behind the location of parting (crest) the thickening partly loosens itself again, and the previously deviated hairs are forced back in the direction of the line of the crest. However, the denser the pile condition is, the stronger will be the pile thickening because of the cresting operation, and as a consequence also the Subsequent narrowing of the crest groove caused thereby.
The result of the cresting becomes a great deal worse if the hairs of the material fed in do not extend in the direction of sewing but, for example, transversely thereto. The relatively strong bending and deviating of the hairs disposed in the direction of the seam line, resulting from the cresting operation, produces correspondingly great resetting forces, which together with the forces resulting from the densening of the hair pile behind the crest location move the hairs back again far beyond the cresting line.
The magnitude of the resetting forces caused by the elasticity is inversely proportional to the intensity and to the time period with which the hairs were originally deviated out of their original position of orientation. Starting with this discovery the invention is based on the problem, to overcome the aforementioned difficulties and to create a device where the forces of alignment or the crest forces act upon the pile hairs to be crested during a relatively longer time period in order to thus attain an improved stabilization of the crest position ofthe pile hairs.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In accordance with the invention this problem is dealt with by a device for sewing plush fabrics or furs that are covered at the pile or hair side by means of a divider tail device that separates the pile, which is provided on a flat support, the broad side of which faces the pile side of the work blank and which tapers down in the direction of sewing in wedgelike manner, where the pile divider tail has a duct that supplies air under pressure, the exit opening of which is provided on the side of the pile divider tail that is opposite from the pile side of the work blank in such a manner that a current of air acts on the sewing material in the direction of sewing.
In the preferred embodiment the device is constructed in a manner that the end piece of the pressure air duct extends substantially to the pile divider tail and the discharge opening is disposed in the plane of the narrow side of the support that faces the point of the pile divider tail. By means of this arrangement the pile hairs aligned more or less far ahead of the crest location parallel to the direction of sewing, depending upon the width of effectiveness of the air pressure current, are kept in position until they reach the pile divider tail. During this period of time, the length of which depends on the distance of reach of the pressure air current and on the feeding speed of the material, the magnitude of the elastic resetting force is decreased in that the initially excessive deformation is converted partly into remaining deformation due to the increasing reduction of the inner work material tensions caused by the deforming. In this: manner the hair pile is already preconditioned, i.e., it is fed to the location of the crest or crown in prealigned form.
With the device in accordance with: the invention the crest alignment forces are effective during a relatively long period of time, so that also the elastic resetting forces resulting from cresting can reduce themselves considerably more.
The result of the work of the device in accordance with the invention thus is comparable with the work result of a pile divider spur or tail of longer and broader construction, while the device in accordance with the invention does not possess the awkwardness of such divider tails. A further essential advantage is that hair pile pressed flat is loosened by the action of the pressure of the stream of air and thus facilitates the cresting. It must be noted that without being seized by the pile divider tail, flattened hairs slip along the outside of the divider tail and are then seized as the seam is formed.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS Further advantages and features of the invention will become apparent from the following description with reference to the embodiments illustrated in the drawings, in which FIG. 1 is a perspective illustration of the pile divider for sewing plush fabrics or furs whose pile side may be exposed or covered up;
FIG. la is a perspective illustration of part of a second embodiment of a pile divider or separator for sewing of plush fabrics or furs with the pile sides disposed against each other;
FIG. 2 is a section along line II-II in FIG. la where the pile divider in accordance with FIG. la is Illl position of use;
FIG. 3 illustrates the manner of operation of the embodiment of FIG. I with the pile hairs oriented transversely of the direction of sewing; and
FIG. 4 is a schematic illustration of the manner of operation of the pile divider in accordance with FIG. 1.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The device in accordance with the invention comprises a flat support 1 which has a small tongue 2 at one of its ends and which expands at its other end to form a mounting plate or bar 3 provided with slots. Along the bottom broad side I.ll of the support 1 (FIG. la) at the tongue 2, a small spur or tail 4 is provided which serves for separating or cresting the pile. The tail 4 projects beyond the front narrow side 8 of the tongue 2 and tapers down to form a point 4.1L
The device in accordance with the invention is employed with a sewing machine provided in a known manner with a needle N, a looper of any type desired (not illustrated), and any desired feeding means (likewise not illustrated), for feed ing the work blank to form a seam S.
The device as shown in the direction of feed F of the work blank is fastened at any suitable location ahead of the stepper foot P of the machine and is oriented in a manner that the pile divider spur 4 is located above the work blank WI with its pile side FS facing upwardly and parallel to the direction of sewing. The pile divider point 4.1 is oriented in the direction D. Above the pile divider spur 4 and parallel thereto the end part 5 of a thin tubular conduit 6 is arranged in the tongue 2, which leads along the back side of the tongue 2 or of the support l and is connected with a supply of air under pressure (not shown).
The discharge opening 7 of the conduit 6 is located at the forward narrow side 8 on the tongue 2. Thus the air under pressure flows out of the side 4.2 of the pile divider spur 4 which is opposite from the pile side FS of the work blank W1 in the direction of the point 4.1 of the spur or tail.
A further pile divider tail 9 that tapers into a point 9.1 is arranged in the upper broad side 1.2 of the support I vertically above the first pile divider tail 4 in the same direction of orientation for sewing together two plush fabrics or furs W1 and W2 that rest against each other with the pile sides FS as illustrated in FIGS. 1a and 2.
The endpiece 5 of the tubular conduit 6 lies in this connection symmetrically between the pile divider tails 4, 9, so that the pressure air acts in an equal manner upon hairs of the lower end of the upper work blank W1 and W2. The direction of flow and the approximate distribution of the compressed air discharging out of the discharge opening 7 is indicated in FIG. 2 by three dot and dash arrows A.
FIG. 3 explains the manner of operation of the pile divider in accordance with the invention in connection with an exposed hair pile, i.e., a hair pile which is not covered by a second work blank and whose hairs H are oriented transversely of the direction of sewing D. Depending on the intensity of the ray of air discharging from the endpiece 5 of the tubular conduit 6, the hairs H are more or less aligned in the direction of sewing in front of the point 4.1 of the pile divider tail 4 (F10. la) and held in that position until they reach the pile divider tail 4. During this period of effectiveness, the duration of which depends besides the reach of the compressed air ray also on the feeding speed of the work blank W1, the internal tensions in the work material which develop while the direction is changed and the deformation of the hairs H which initially is elastic, change partly to a remaining deformation.
A similarly advantageous effect is applied by the compressed air also during the subsequent cresting operation. As shown by FIG. 4, the hairs H which come in contact with the lateral aligning surfaces of the pile divider tail 4 are diverted at the place of contact laterally out of the plane of the crest. In this connection, that part which is seized by the pile divider tail 4 which reaches from the point of contact to the point of the hairs H seized is furthermore maintained by the compressed air in a position parallel to the direction of sewing D which is now, however, laterally displaced with respect to the original position corresponding to the deviation. In this manner the hairs H seized by the lateral aligning surfaces are already removed out of the plane of the crest right in the beginning of the cresting operation along their entire length, so that also the elastic resetting forces which develop during cresting will have time to decrease.
The effect of the compressed air during the cresting operation is illustrated in FIG. 4 with a hair pile whose hairs H were already aligned originally in the direction of sewing D. The same effect may also be obtained with a hair pile aligned in any desired manner. The hairs H moved towards the cresting location were already aligned by the compressed air far ahead of the point 4.1 of the pile divider tail 4 in sewing direction D.
The manner of action of the device in accordance with the invention explained with reference to the first embodiment applies correspondingly also to the second embodiment with two pile divider tails 4, 9 arranged one above the other.
In order that the compressed air also applies a good aligning effect to the end of the projecting part of the pile divider tails 4, 9 which face the tongue 2, it may be suitable to widen the aperture 7 of the compressed air duct 6 in a lateral plane. This can be done, for example, by constructing it in the form of an elongated hole or slot.
Having now described our invention with reference to the embodiments illustrated, what we desire to protect by Letters Patent of the United States is set forth in the appended claims.
We claim:
1. Device for sewing plush fabrics, furs and the like that are covered on the pile or hair side, said device being positioned in advance of the needle and constituted by a generally flat support presenting a broad side, a spur disposed at the pile side of said broad side tapering in wedgelike manner from said broad side away from the needle to define a tip at its free end operative to divide the pile as the pile is moved thereagainst, and a duct for supplying compressed air having a discharge aperture aligned in a direction opposite to the direction 'of feeding of the work blanks and disposed at the end of said spur reniote from sai d tip and being operative to directa jet of air against the pile in a direction opposite to the direction of feeding of the work blanks.
2. Device in accordance with claim 1, where said discharge aperture of said duct is oriented generally parallel to said spur and is disposed in a plane extending between said support and the tip of said spur.
3. Device for sewing two plush fabrics or furs disposed with their pile or fur sides against one another, said device being positioned in advance of the needle and comprising a generally flat support presenting a broad side and having a spur at the top and a spur at the bottom of said broad side, each said spur tapering in the direction away from said needle and from said broad side to end in a tip operative to divide the pile as the pile is moved thereagainst, and a duct for supplying compressed air having a discharge aperture aligned in a direction opposite to the direction of feeding of the work blanks and disposed between said spurs remote from the tips thereof and being operative to direct a jet of air against the pile of the two fabrics or furs disposed against one another.
4. Device in accordance with claim 3, where said discharge aperture of said duct is oriented generally parallel to said spurs and is disposed in a plane extending between said support and the tips of said spurs.
lOlOlS 02l6 Patent No. 3 .628 .475 Dated December 21, 1971 Inve t Herbert Erb, et a1 It is certified that error appears in the above-identified patent and that said Letters Patent are hereby corrected as shown below:
On the cover sheet, insert [32] Priority June 18, 1969 Germany Gm. G 69 24 106.1.
Signed and sealed this 14th day of November 1972.,
(SEAL) Attest:
EDWARD M.FLETCHER,JR. ROBERT GOTTSCHALK Attesting Officer Commissioner of Patents FORM PO-XOSO (10-69) USCOMMDC 6037G-P69 9 U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: X969 D-36S-'334,
Claims (4)
1. Device for sewing plush fabrics, furs and the like that are covered on the pile or hair side, said device being positioned in advance of the needle and constituted by a generally flat support presenting a broad side, a spur disposed at the pile side of said broad side tapering in wedgelike manner from said broad side away from the needle to define a tip at its free end operative to divide the pile as the pile is moved thereagainst, and a duct for supplying compressed air having a discharge aperture aligned in a direction opposite to the direction of feeding of the work blanks and disposed at the end of said spur remote from said tip and being operative to direct a jet of air against the pile in a direction opposite to the direction of feeding of the work blanks.
2. Device in accordance with claim 1, where said discharge aperture of said duct is oriented generally parallel to said spur and is disposed in a plane extending between said support and the tip of said spur.
3. Device for sewing two plush fabrics or furs disposed with their pile or fur sides against one another, said device being positioned in advance of the needle and comprising a generally flat support presenting a broad side and having a spur at the top and a spur at the bottom of said broad side, each said spur tapering in the direction away from said needle and from said broad side to end in a tip operative to divide the pile as the pile is moved thereagainst, and a duct for supplying compressed air having a discharge aperture aligned in a direction opposite to the direction of feeding of the work blanks and disposed between said spurs remote from the tips thereof and being operative to direct a jet of air against the pile of the two fabrics or furs disposed against one another.
4. Device in accordance with claim 3, where said discharge aperture of said duct is oriented generally parallel to said spurs and is disposed in a plane extending between said support and the tips of said spurs.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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US4479470A | 1970-06-09 | 1970-06-09 |
Publications (1)
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US3628475A true US3628475A (en) | 1971-12-21 |
Family
ID=21934371
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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US44794A Expired - Lifetime US3628475A (en) | 1970-06-09 | 1970-06-09 | Device for sewing plush fabrics or furs |
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Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US1559267A (en) * | 1925-06-06 | 1925-10-27 | Lipschitz Isidore | Fur-seaming machine |
US2730056A (en) * | 1951-08-13 | 1956-01-10 | Wiesenfeld Leo | Attachment for fur sewing machines |
US3572268A (en) * | 1969-08-22 | 1971-03-23 | Fred L Olday | Fur sewing machine |
-
1970
- 1970-06-09 US US44794A patent/US3628475A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Patent Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US1559267A (en) * | 1925-06-06 | 1925-10-27 | Lipschitz Isidore | Fur-seaming machine |
US2730056A (en) * | 1951-08-13 | 1956-01-10 | Wiesenfeld Leo | Attachment for fur sewing machines |
US3572268A (en) * | 1969-08-22 | 1971-03-23 | Fred L Olday | Fur sewing machine |
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