US3156046A - Pattern grading device - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 10, 1964 J. 5. POTTER PATTERN GRADING DEVICE Filed March '7, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 l 7 f INVENTOR JOEL SANFORD POTTER AT TORNEVS.

Nov. 10, 1964 I J. 5. POTTER 3,156,046

. PATTERN GRADING DEVICE Filed March 7, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 FIG. 2.

22 22 INVENTOR F 3 JOEL SANFORD POTTER BY 7 HM,

ATTQBNEYS.

United States Patent 3,156,046 PATTERN GRADING DEVICE Joel Sanford Potter, Timbertop Farm, West Nyack, NY. Filed Mar. 7, H52, Ser. No. 178,131 5 Qlaims. (Cl. 33-12) This invention relates in general to a pattern making device, and more specifically to a pattern making device for accurately grading a pattern of a given predetermined size into similar patterns of any other desired size.

In the designing of clothes, it is customary for a designer to design a given dress in a standard size, e.g. a size when working in womens clothing. However, any other suitable size may be picked as standard. 'After the given garment has been designed and its pattern determined in the preselected size, it then becomes necessary to proportion the selected pattern size, up or down in order to make the given garment in other sizes. Generally the upgrading or downgrading of sizes from a given preselected size bears a predetermined relationship to the selected pattern size md this is readily determinable in inches or fraction of inches. Accordingly a skilled pattern maker, who works from a preselected design pattern will increase or decrease the proportions of the other patterns based on the known relationship in the upgrading or downgrading, respectively, from a given preselected pattern. Generally this had been accomplished by hand, and for this reason resulted in tedious and time consuming operation. Also such hand upgrading and downgrading from a preselected pattern required the hand of highly skilled pattern maker.

While attempts have been made to mechanize this art, the known mechanism are not satisfactory. Some of the known devices utilized a screw drive to increase the size of preselected pattern a given number of inches or fraction thereof to change the size of the selected pattern.

However, these devices were relatively slow and difficult to operate. Also, the operation of the known devices required on the part of the operator a complete knowledge of the degree of increased or decreased proportions of each graded size over that of the selected pattern.

Therefore, an object of this invention is to overcome the foregoing disadvantages by providing an improved pattern grading device in which the grading of a given pattern is readily attained without the necessity of making or taking any measurements.

Another object is to provide a pattern grading device which can be elfectively used to upgrade or downgrade a given pattern with equal facility by either a skilled or unskilled pattern maker.

Still another object is to provide a pattern grading machine that is readily simple in operation, inexpensive to manufacture, and positive in operation.

The above objects and other features and advantages of this invention are attained by a pattern making device which is capable of upgrading or downgrading a pattern of preselected size without the necessity of measuring in inches any changes of dimensions between the selected pattern and any of the varying patterns to be graded therefrom. In accordance with this invention this is attained by a mechanism for carrying the preselected pattern in a particular manner over a sheet of material from which the graded pattern is to be formed. The mechanism includes a base plate movable in a horizontal direction relative to a stop bar which is fixed with respect to the sheet of material from which the graded pattern is to be cut, and a slide means carried by the base plate for moving the preselected pattern relative thereto in a generally vertical direction over the material to be graded. A pair of indicating means calibrated to read in'sizes e.g. 8 to 20, are operatively associated with the stop bar and slide means, respectively, for measuring the relative pro- "Ice portionate amount of vertical movement and horizontal movement of the preselected pattern over the material from which the graded siZe is to be formed.

The arrangement is such that by setting the indicators to the size of the preselected pattern, i.e. 10, a point on the pattern to be graded, say a size 14, corresponding to a selected point on the preselected pattern can be readily located simply by moving the pattern vertically and/or horizontally until the respective indicators responsive to such movement read the size of the pattern to be graded, i.e. 14. When this occurs the selected point of the preselected pattern overlies a corresponding point on the graded pattern properly proportioned for the graded pattern, and thus this point can be marked thereon. By successively locating a plurality of such points in a like manner on the graded pattern, the latter can be readily ascertained from the preselected pattern without resorting to physical measurements.

A feature of this invention resides in the provision of flexible cables for rendering each of the indicators operatively responsive to the respective movement of the base plate relative to the fixed stop bar and the base plate relative to its slide means.

The various features of novelty which characterize this invention are pointed out with particularity in the claims annexed to and forming a part of this specification. For a better understanding of the invention, its operating advantages and specific objects attained by its use, reference should be had to the accompanying drawings and descriptive matter in which is illustrated and described a preferred embodiment of the invention.

In the drawings:

FIG. 1 is a plan view of the pattern grading device of this invention.

FIG. 2 is a partial side elevation View of FIG. 1.

FIG. 3 is a sectional plan view taken along lines 3-3 of FIG. 2.

Referring to the drawings, there is illustrated the pattern grading device 10 of this invention. It comprises a housing 11 having a base plate 12 and a cover plate 13 spaced therefrom. The base plate 12 is rectangular in form and it is defined by an upper and lower horizontal edge portion 12A, 12B and opposed vertical edge portions 12C. As shown in FIG. 3, the base plate 12 is provided with a horizontally disposed elongated slot 14 adjacent each of the corners. A ball 15 protrudes from each of the slots 14, each ball 15 being freely rotatable within its respective slots. Each ball 15 is provided with limited movement relative to the base plate 12 due to a suitable retaining ring 16 and spring holder 17 anchored to the plate 12 by a fastener 18. The arrangement of the balls 15 relative to the'base plate 12 thus permits movement of the plate 12 relative to a supporting surface or table 1).

Mounted on the base plate 12 adjacent the lower horizontal edge portion 12B is a stop bar 28. Each end portion of the stop bar 20 is provided with a cut back or' notched out portion to define a shoulder 20A. The stop bar 26 is supported on the plate 12 to provide for relative horizontal movement therebetween. Fixed to the base plate 12 on either side of the stop bar 2! are stop blocks 21 positioned to limit the movement of the base plate 12 relative the stop plate 26. Connected to the leading edge of stop bar 21 are a pair of brackets 22 by which the stop bar 20 may be fixed to the edge of a supporting surface or table 19. Thus with the stop bar 2!) fixed to the table 19, it will be apparent that the base plate 12 is free to move in a horizontal movement, i.e. in lateral direction relative to the stop bar 20. Guides .23 prevent vertical movement of the base plate 12 relative to the stop bar 26?. Vertical movement of the base plate 12 is'herein defined as movement in a plane normal to the relative horizontal or lateral movement between the base plate 12 and the stop bar 20.

Connected along the opposed vertical edge portions 120 of the base plate 12 are slide guides 24 and 25. A bar member 26 having its end portions 26A spaced from guides 24 and 25 define therebetween a space to accommodate slides 27 and 23. Thus, slides 27 and 28 are supported on the base plate 12 for relative vertical movement with respect to the base plate 12.

Forming a tie connection between the slides 27 and 28 is an angle member 29. Thus angle member 29 provides concomitant movement of the slides 27, 28, and one leg 29A of the angle 29 is vertically disposed to serve in a handle to facilitate movement of the slides 27, 23.

Connected to the horizontal leg 29B of the tie-angle 29 and extending outwardly therefrom are a pair of brackets 31') for holding the preselected pattern 31 which is to be graded. With the structure described it will be apparent that the preselected pattern 31 carried by the slides 27 and 28 can move vertically relative to plate 12, and the plate 12 due to its ball mountings can move horizontally relative to the supporting table 19 to which the stop bar is fixed. With the material 32 of the graded pattern placed on the table 19 beneath pattern 31, it will be noted that slides 27 and 28 carry the preselected patern 31 and can be moved in both a horizontal and vertical movement relative to the material from which the pattern is to be formed.

In accordance with this invention means are provided for measuring the horizontal movement of the plate 12 relative to the supporting surface 19, and hence the slides 27, 28 and pattern 31 carried thereby. The means for measuring the horizontal movement of the plate 12 and slides 27, 28 carried thereby include a grooved Wheel 33 fixed to a shaft 34 rotatably journaled to the base plate 12. Spaced on either side of the grooved wheel 33 are idler wheels or pulleys 35, 36. Accordingly, a flexible cable 37 is wound about the grooved wheel 33 and each of the idler wheels 35, 36. To avoid slippage, a portion of the cabie 37 is anchored to the wheel 33. A point on the cable 37 is also fixed to the stop bar 20 by a suitable connector 33. Thus, the base plate 12 when moved horizontally relative to the fixed stop bar 20 affects movement of the cable 37. The cable being wound about wheel 33, thus results in rotation of the shaft 34. Mounted on the shaft 34 which extends through the cover plate 13 is a pointer 39' which cooperates with a calibrated scale 40 for indicating the amount of relative horizontal movement of the base 12 and slider carried thereby. The indicia of the scale 40 in accordance with this invention is calibrated in sizes e.g. 8, 9, 1t), 11, 12, etc.

To measure the movement of the angle 24 and connected slides 27, 2S vertically relative to the base plate 12 is a second indicator 41. This indicator 41 also includes a wheel or pulley 42 fixed to a shaft 43 rotatably journaled to base plate 12. Shaft 43 extends upwardly through cover plate 13 and has fixed thereto a pointer 44 which cooperates with scale 45.

To insure accurate concomitant movement between the slides 27, 28 and to prevent binding the same, a cable 46 is looped over the idler pulleys 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52 and the indicator pulley 42. Accordingly, a pair of idler pulleys 47, 51 and 48, are arranged adjacent to the upper corners of the plate 12, and a single idler pulley 49 and 52 respectively are disposed in each of the lower corners. As shown, the pulleys are mounted on corner plates fixed to the plate 12. Specifically, pulleys 47 and 51 are mounted on corner plate 53, pulleys 48 and 56 are mounted on corner plate 54, pulley 49 is mounted on corner plate 55, and pulley 52 is mounted on corner plate 56. Starting with wheel or pulley 42, the cable 45 extends around pulley 47, pulley 48, pulley 49, pulley 50, pulley 51, pulley 52, and then around wheel 42. Between pulleys 51 and 52 a portion of the cable 46 is fixed to slide 28 by a suitable connector 28A. A portion of the cable 46 between pulle s 49 and 59, is connected to the other slide 27 by a similar connector 27A. With the cable 46 thus connected to both slides 27, 28, both slides must rows the same vertical distance relative to the base plate 12. The particular pulley arrangement described further prohibits angling of the slides 27, 23 and resulting binding which would otherwise inhibit movement thereof. Thus, when the slides 27, 28 are moved vertically relative to the base plate 12, the displacement of the cable 46 will effect rotation of the shaft 43 and pointer 44 connected thereto.

To further guide slide 27 and to build some friction into the system if desired, a bolt 57 is pressed against the side of the slide 27 by a compression spring 58 disposed in a housing 59 fixed to the plate 12. However, the components 57, 58 and 59 are purely optional and may be deleted if desired.

In operation, the preselected pattern 31 is secured to pattern holder 30, and the stop bar 20 is fixed to the table 19 to position the device 10 relative to a sheet of material 32 from which the graded pattern is to be formed. The pointers 39, 44 of each indicator are then set to read the size of the preselected pattern 32, e.g. 10. Therefore, if it is desired to upgrade the preselected size 10 pattern to, say, pattern size 14, the sheet 32 from which a size 14 pattern is to be formed is layed under the sample pattern 31 and fixed to the table 19. A mark is made at one of the neutral points on the sample pattern, e.g. as at neutral point A. Thus, to find the corresponding point A an upgraded or a point A" on a downgrade pattern 31' and 31" respectively, horizontal movement of the plate 12 relative to the stop bar 20 is effected accordingly until the indicator points 39 read the graded size of the pattern being formed, i.e. 14. When their size is read, the point A of the selected pattern overlies corresponding point A on the upgraded pattern 31'. This point can then be marked on the sheet of material. A second point B on the selected pattern is then taken. The slides are thus moved vertically and horizontally, until the vertical pointer 44 and horizontal 39, respectively, read 14. When this reading is bad, the second point of the graded pattern is located and can be marked as at B. By thus plotting a successive number of such points, the outline of the graded pattern can be ascertained. Downgrading of the pattern is readily conversely accomplished in a similar manner.

With the arrangement described it will be apparent that the upgrading and downgrading can be attained without the necessity of taking any physical measurements. Thus the device It? can be handled with equal facility by either a skilled or unskilled pattern maker. The device is relatively simple and positive in operation, and the use of cables 37, 46 greatly simplifies the structure and resulting cost of manufacture and sale.

While the instant invention has been disclosed with reference to a particular method and a particular embodiment for practicing the same, it is to be appreciated that the invention is not to be taken as limited to all of the details thereof as modifications and variations thereof may be made without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention.

What is claimed is:

1. A pattern grading device comprising a rectangular base plate defined by upper and lower horizontal edge portions and opposed vertical edge portions, a horizontal stop bar carried on said plate adjacent the lower horizontal edge portion of said base, said stop bar being mounted on said base plate to permit relative horizontal movement therebetween, brackets connected to said stop bar adaptable for fixedly securing said stop bar to a supporting surface, opposed slide guides connected adjacent each vertical edge portion of said base plate, a slide bar slidably mounted relative to said base plate disposed in each of said slide guides, a tie means interconnecting the opposed slide bars to provide for concomitant movement of said slide bars relative said base plate, means for holding a master pattern to said tie means, means connected to said base plate for movably supporting said base plate over a supporting surface whereby grading of the master pattern is attained by proportionate movement of the pattern in a horizontal and vertical direction effected by horizontal movement of the base relative to stop bar and vertical movement of the slide base relative said base plate relative to a fixed sheet or" material, and means for determining the proportionate vertical and horizontal movement of said master pattern for the grading of a given size, said latter means including a first indicator for indicating the proportional horizontal movement of said pattern, and a second indicator for indicating the predetermined proportional vertical movement of said master pattern grading, each of said indicators being calibrated to read in sizes.

2. A pattern grading device comprising a housing including a rectangular base plate defined by upper and lower horizontal edge portions and opposed vertical edge portions, a horizontal stop bar carried on said plate adjacent the lower horizontal edge portion of said base, said stop bar being mounted on said base plate to permit relative horizontal movement therebetween, a stop mounted on side base plate on either side of said stop bar to limit the relative movement between said plate and stop bar, a bracket connected to said stop bar adaptable for fixedly securing said stop bar to a supporting surface, opposed slide guides connected adjacent each vertical edge portion of said base plate, a slide bar slidably mounted in each of said slide guides for relative vertical movement with respect to said base plate, a tie means interconnecting the opposed slide bars to provide for concomitant movement of said slide bars relative said base plate, means for holding a master pattern connected to and projected from said slide means, means connected to said base plate for movably supporting said base plate over a supporting surface, said means including protruding freely rotatable balls for moving the base plate over a surface whereby grading of the master pattern is attained by proportionate vertical and horizontal movement of the master pattern relative to a fixed sheet by horizontal movement of the base plate relative to stop bar and vertical movement of the slide base relative said base plate, and means for determining the proportionate vertical and horizontal movement of said master pattern over said fixed sheet of material, said latter means including a first indicator for indicating a predetermined proportional horizontal movement of said pattern and a second indicator for indicating the predetermined proportional vertical movement of said master pattern for the grading of a given size, each of said indicators being calibrated to read in sizes.

3. A pattern grading device comprising a housing including a rectangular base plate defined by upper and lower horizontal edge portions and opposed vertical edge portions, a horizontal stop bar carried on said plate adjacent the lower horizontal edge portion of said base, said stop bar being mounted on said base plate to permit relative horizontal movement therebetween, a stop mounted on said base plate on either side of said stop bar to limit the relative movement between said plate and stop bar, brackets connected to said stop bar adaptable for fixedly securing said stop bar to a supporting surface, opposed slide guides connected adjacent each vertical edge portion of said base plate, a slide bar slidably mounted relative to said base plate disposed in each of said slide guides, a tie-angle interconnecting the opposed slide bars to provide for concomitant movement of said slide bars relative said base plate, brackets for holding a master pattern connected to and projected outwardly from said tie-angle, means connected to said base plate for movably supporting said base plate over a supporting surface, said means including horizontally disposed slots formed in the corner portions of said base plate, a protruding freely rotatable ball retained in each of said slots for moving the base plate over a surface whereby grading of the master pattern is attained by proportionate movement of the pattern effected by horizontal movement of the base relative to stop bar and vertical movement of the slide bars rela tive said base plate over a fixed sheet of material, and means for determining the proportionate vertical and horizontal movement of said master pattern for grading to given size from said master pattern, said latter means including a first indicator for indicating the proportional horizontal movement of said pattern over the fixed sheet of material and a second indicator for indicating the pie-determined proportional vertical movement of said master pattern over the fixed sheet of material for grading the given size, and each of said indicators being calibrated to read in sizes.

4. The invention as defined in claim 3 wherein said first indicator means includes a dial graduated in sizes, a pointer movable relative said dial, a pair of idler pulleys mounted on said base, and a flexible cable treaded over said pulleys, said cable being fixed at one point to the stop bar for connecting said pointer with said stop bar to render said pointer responsive to the relative horizontal movement between said base plate and fixed stop bar.

5. The invention as defined in claim 4 wherein said second indicator means includes a second dial graduated in sizes, a pointer movable relative to said second dial, and means rendering said pointer responsive to the vertical movement of said slide bars relative to said base plate, said latter means including a series of pulleys, rotatably journaled to the base plate adjacent the corners thereof, and a flexible cable loop over said pulleys and about said pointer, means for fixing a point on the cable loop to each of said slide bars whereby said pointer is rendered responsive to the concomitant vertical movement of said slide bars relative to said base plate.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,589,105 Maiocchi Mar. 11, 1952 2,711,588 Ingram June 28, 1955 2,972,188 Kaufman Feb. 21, 1961 3,083,465 Totten Apr. 2, 1963

Claims (1)

1. A PATTERN GRADING DEVICE COMPRISING A RECTANGULAR BASE PLATE DEFINED BY UPPER AND LOWER HORIZONTAL EDGE PORTIONS AND OPPOSED VERTICAL EDGE PORTIONS, A HORIZONTAL STOP BAR CARRIED ON SAID PLATE ADJACENT THE LOWER HORIZONTAL EDGE PORTION OF SAID BASE, SAID STOP BAR BEING MOUNTED ON SAID BASE PLATE TO PERMIT RELATIVE HORIZONTAL MOVEMENT THEREBETWEEN, BRACKETS CONNECTED TO SAID STOP BAR ADAPTABLE FOR FIXEDLY SECURING SAID STOP BAR TO A SUPPORTING SURFACE, OPPOSED SLIDE GUIDES CONNECTED ADJACENT EACH VERTICAL EDGE PORTION OF SAID BASE PLATE, A SLIDE BAR SLIDABLY MOUNTED RELATIVE TO SAID BASE PLATE DISPOSED IN EACH OF SAID SLIDE GUIDES, A TIE MEANS INTERCONNECTING THE OPPOSED SLIDE BARS TO PROVIDE FOR CONCOMITANT MOVEMENT OF SAID SLIDE BARS RELATIVE SAID BASE PLATE, MEANS FOR HOLDING A MASTER PATTERN TO SAID TIE MEANS, MEANS CONNECTED TO SAID BASE PLATE FOR MOVABLY SUPPORTING SAID BASE PLATE OVER A SUPPORTING SURFACE WHEREBY GRADING OF THE MASTER PATTERN IS ATTAINED BY PROPORTIONATE MOVEMENT OF THE PATTERN IN A HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL DIRECTION EFFECTED BY HORIZONTAL MOVEMENT OF THE SLIDE BASE RELATIVE SAID BASE VERTICAL MOVEMENT OF THE SLIDE BASE RELATIVE SAID BASE PLATE RELATIVE TO A FIXED SHEET OF MATERIAL, AND MEANS FOR DETERMINING THE PROPORTIONATE VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL MOVEMENT OF SAID MASTER PATTERN FOR THE GRADING OF A GIVEN SIZE, SAID LATTER MEANS INCLUDING A FIRST INDICATOR FOR INDICATING THE PROPORTIONAL HORIZONTAL MOVEMENT OF SAID PATTERN, AND A SECOND INDICATOR FOR INDICATING THE PREDETERMINED PROPORTIONAL VERTICAL MOVEMENT OF SAID MASTER PATTERN GRADING, EACH OF SAID INDICATORS BEING CALIBRATED TO READ IN SIZES.

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