US2782619A - Sweater construction and method of making same - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 26, 1957 M. BIALOSTOK SWEATER CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed 001;. 7; 1954' 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 Ir .A m

4 mm m; X W

Feb. 26, 1957 M. BIALOSTOK SWEATER CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Oct. 7, 1954 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 FIG. 4.

INVENTOR. 414x 544 0:704 "6 Feb. 26, 1957 M. BIALOS TOK 2,

SWEATER CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed 001;. 7, 1954 a Sheets-Sheee INVENTOR. 44 x 457,41. aJ-ra irrae/vE/ SWEATER CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD OF. MAKING SAME,

Max Bialostok,,Broklyn, N; Y'., assignor to DanielBialostok, Brooklyn, N. Y.

Application October 7,1954, Serial N o. 461L800v 12 Claims. (Cl. 66-176) This invention relates to novelsweater constructions and improved methods of sweater manufacture.

Heretofore,as is well known to those versed in the art of coat sweater manufacture, the front panels, the bottom, the shoulders, yoke, collar, lapels and ornamental borders of a coat sweater were commonly fabricated separately. If it were desired to integrally knit, say the collar and yoke, or front panels andcollar, of a single piece of fabric, relatively intricate and expensive equipment and procedures were required, usually involving hand knitting or considerable cutting and waste.

Accordingly, it is one object of the present invention to provide a new and improved coat sweater construction in which'the front sweater panels, the bottom, the yoke, the shoulders, the collar, lapels and a border can all-be formed of a single piece of knitted-materialpso that a complete sweater may be assembled by merely securing the integral knitting piece to a sweater back panel and sleeves, if the latter are desired. Further, the sweater construction of the present invention permits of wide variations in garment lines, so as to be capableof manufacturein manywdiiferent styles.

It. is another object of the present invention to provide an extremely simple and efficient method of manufacture ing sweaters having the advantageous characteristics men: tioned in the foregoing paragraph, which methodiscapable of being performed in a highly automatic manner by the useof existing machines, to minimizethenecessary labor operations, and which substantially completely elinn inates the waste of knitted material. More particularly, a continuous strip-or web of material knitted on. cornpletely automatic equipment, is severed orcu t at spaced locations to provide a plurality of like sectionseach adapted to, form the front panels, the bottom, borders, shoulders, collar, yoke and lapels of a coat sweater, thus effecting complete utilization of thencontinuously knitted strip and hence the elemination of Waste. 7

It is a further object of the present invention toprovidean improved sweater structure of the type described which is sii'nplev and strong in construction, requiring a minimum of separate pieces (and hencea minimum of stitched seams, which.is neat and attractive in'app'earance, andwhich'can be. manufactured and sold at a reasonable cost.

Other objects of the present invention will become apparent upon reading the following specification and refer ring to the accompanying drawings, which form a material part of this disclosure. 7

The invention accordingly consists in the features of construction, combinations of elements, and arrangements of parts, which will be exemplified in the construction hereinafter described, and of-'which the scope will'be indicated-bythe appended claims.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a front elevational view'showinga sweater constructed in accordance with the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a rear elevati onal view showing the sweater construction of Fig. 1.

2,782.,6 l 9 Patented Feb. 26, 1 957 Fig.3. .isa front elevational view showing'a slightly modified form of sweater construction according to the present invention.

Fig.4 .is a rear elevational view showing the sweater construction of Fig. 3. v

Fig.- 5 is va partial, front elevation showingan ar;mhole and sleeve construction in accordance with the present. invention.

Fig.6 is a plan view showing a section of knitted material adapted to-form the front panels, yoke, collar and lapels of the sweater showninFigs. 1 and 2.

Fig. 7 is, a plan view illustratinga continuous strip of knitted material from which the section of Fig. 6 may be-cut.

Fig. 8 is a plan viewillustratiug a slightly modified form of. continuously knitted strip in accordance with the prest invention.

Referring now more particularly to thedrawings, and specifically to Figs. 1 and 2 thereof, the embodiment of theinventionillustrated therein comprises a sweater, generally desjignated 10,. including a body portion 11 and leftand right arms 12l and Mr, respectively. This inventionis, concerned primarily with the. sweater body portion 11,, to which sleeves of various styles may or may not be attached, as desired.

The body portion 11 includes apair .of generally vertically disposed left. and right front panels, 141 and-14 which terminate at their upper endsin diagonallines 151 15x, respectively. A pair ofleft and right forward yoke portions 161 and 16], extend.from;the diagonals 15l and 15? obliquely upwards, and inwards in the modification of Figs. 1 and 2. Theforward yoke portions 161 and 16rv are adapted to overlie or rest upon the shoulders ofa ,Wearer, as best seen in Fig.- 2,,and terminate at their upper ends in diagonal lines 171 and 17r .whichdiagonals may extend rearwardly over the wearers shoulders; as in the form of Fig. 2. Extending between the=forward yoke portions 161 and-161', obliquely inwards .ortoward each other fromthe diagonals 171 and 171:, are apair of rearward yoke portions 181 and 182-. The rearward yoke portions Island 18r meet along a centrally disposeddiagonal line 19, defining a mitered juncture; and, as the ,rearward yokeportions of Figs. 1 and 2 extend inwardly and downwardly, the mitered juncture provides the yoke with a depending, centralpoint.

While the front panel portions 14r and. 141 have been referred to as. generally vertically extending, and may be, formed with relatively straight ribsextending vertically from the lower front panel edges to the upper ends ofthe latter, if desired, it is preferred to formeachof the front panels in at least two portions. Thus, the left and right front panels 141 and Mr are each formed witha laterally exte nding, lo wer portion, as at 211v and 21r, which terminate alongdiagonal lines 22l and 22r, respectively. Further, the front panels each include a main panel portion 231 and 23r extending upwards between its associated diagonals 221 and 151, and 221' and'15r. This construction permits of a continuous edge or border 25 being formed to extend along the lower and inner edge-portions of thefront panels 141 and 141', as welltas about the inner edges of the forward. and rearward yoke panels 161, 16k, 181 and 1dr. It will be'noted that-the lower front panel portions 211 and. Mr each :extendinward-s, and that their diagonals 221 and 222 extend upwards and outwards from the lower edges. of the front panels.

In the manufacture of the sweater710, as will appear in greater detail hereinafter, a back panel 26 is secured along its side edges to the outer edges of the front panels 141 and Mr, remaining unsecured in the armhole region; and,'the back panel has its upper edge portion secured to the outer edge of the forward, and rearward yoke portions. The sleeves 121 and 12r may then be-sewn in the armholes, if desired. It will be noted that the inner edge portion 27 of the left and right, forward and rearward yoke portions may be turned outwards to provide a collar and lapels. The collar 27 may, of course, be formed with lapels of greater size, by turning outwards the upper inner edge portions of the front panels 14l and 14r.

In Figs. 3 and 4 is shown a slightly modified form of sweater 10 also constructed in accordance with the present invention. The lower front panels portions 21! and Mr of Fig. 3 extend outwards from the inner front panel edge and terminate in the diagonal lines 22! and Mr, each of which declines outwards from the inner edge of the associated front panel. This is in contrast to the diagonals 22l and 22r of Fig. l which incline outwards from the lower edges of the front panels. The mainfront panels portions 231 and 23r' extend generally vertically upwards from the diagonals 22l'and 221- and terminate in inwardly inclined diagonals ll"and 15r'. While the main front panel portions 23l, 23r, 231' and 23r' of Figs. 1 and 3 have all been illustrated as of generally straight, vertical disposition, it is of course, appreciated that the main front panel portions may be formed in a wide variety of designs, such as to produce a scalloped edge for buttoning, or mere decoration.

The forward yoke portions 16l' and 16r of thesweater of Figs. 3 and 4 extend obliquely upwards and outwards away from each other, in contradi-stinction to the inwardly extending dispositions of the forward yoke portions 16! and Mr, and terminate at their upper ends in diagonal lines 17! and 171'. Extending between the latter diagonals, inwards toward each other and upwards, are a pair of rearward yoke portions 18r and 181', which meet in a centrally disposed diagonal line or upwardly pointed mitered juncture 19'.

The front panels MI and 141", and the forward and rearward yoke portions 16l, 161", 18l', and 18r, thus form a single, elongated piece of knitted material, the latter having its outer edge portions secured to the side and top edges of a sweater back 26 and sleeves 121' and 12r' in substantially the same manner as described hereinbefore in connection with Figs. 1 and 2.

It will be noted that border edge 25' extending along the inner and lower edge portions of the front panels and yoke portions is discontinuous, as at 29l and 29r along the inner edges of the lower front panel portions 21l' and 21r'. However, the inner edge portions of the forward and rearward yoke portions, as well as the upper inner edge portions of the front panels are foldable outwards and back to provide a collar 27', in substantially the same manner as described hereinbefore in connection with the collar 27 of Figs. 1 and 2. Of course, the collars 27 and 27 differ in style, according to the angular dispositions of the forward and rearward yoke portions. For example, the collar 27' includes a rearward, depending point, which is entirely absent in the collar 27.

While the sweaters of Figs. l-4 may require some severance of the main front panel and yoke portions for proper fitting of the sleeves, Fig. 5 illustrates a sleeve 31, fitted and attached to the front panel 32 and forward yoke portion 33 without cutting or severing the front panel and yoke. That is, the sleeve 31 is inserted 'into the armhole opening defined by the front panel and yoke portions, and secured therein. The selvage edge or border 34 extending along the outer edge portion of the front panel and yoke portions then overlies the sleeve 31 to present a cape-like appearance.

The integral front panels and bottoms, the yoke portions and shoulders, the collar, lapels and borders may be formed on a conventional knitting machine by continuously knitting a strip or web of straight portions,

alternately angulated in diverse directions, such as the strip generally designated 36 in Fig. 7. More particularly, the strip 36 is knitted in a repeat pattern of alternately angulated strip portions, each portion being dis,

posed at a predetermined angle with respect to the prelength or number of courses. Further, the various strip portions may be of different widths, as desired; and, the strip may be produced continuously and completely automatically by suitable control cams which rack the knitting machine in the desired direction during the desired number of courses. The strip may also be automatically formed with a surface design, such as that of the relatively wide, longitudinally extending ribs shown in Figs. 1 and 2, and a ribbed border or marginal edge, as at 25 and 25', may also be knitted simultaneously with V the continuous strip 36, by withdrawing or shortening the needles and employing increased yarn in the edge regions, or by using high butt needles to produce a half cardigan stitch. Of course, the border may be on one or both edges of the strip 36 and of any desired width or number of ribs. Thus, both front panels of a sweater, the sweater yoke, collar and lapels may all be formed by a completely automatic, continuous operation, so as to require only attachment of the sweater back panel and sleeves, when the latter are desired, to manufacture the complete sweater.

The continuous strip 36 includes aplurality of repeat patterns each formed of a plurality of strip portions extending in alternately angulated relation. Thus, successive strip portions 23r, 161', 18r, 181, 16l, and 23l extend in alternately angulated relation with respect to each other and correspond to the similarly designated portions of Figs. 1 and 2. Of course, the relative angular disposition between each adjacent pair of strip portions is predetermined and controlled by the amount of racking, and the length of each strip portion, as between the diagonals 22r, 15r, 171', 19, 17!, ISI and 22l is predetermined by controlling the number of courses at which the knitting machine is permitted to run on one rack setting.

It will be observed that an additional strip portion 21 extends angularly from each of the strip portions 23r and 23l; and, that the section 37, including one strip portion 21 is an unsymmetrical repeat pattern (although inverted with respect to the adjacent repeat pattern, as at 38) formed throughout the entire extent of the strip 36. Further, upon severing each of the strip portions 21 along a line 39 extending longitudinally of the adjacent strip portions 23! and 231', each of the strip portions 21 will be subdivided into strip portions 7-H and 21!, corresponding to the lower front panel portions of the sweater 10. Severance along the lines 39 will also divide the entire strip 36 into a plurality of symmetrical sections, each of which may be secured to the back and sleeves of a sweater to form the front panels, yoke, collar and lapels of the sweater, as described in connection with the forms of Figs. 1 and 3.

While each of the knitted repeat sections 37 and 38 includes seven alternately angulated strip portions, and each of the severed repeat sections of Fig. 6 includes six of the strip portions and a half portion on each end, a slightly modified form of strip 40 may be continuously knitted in repeat sections 41, each including only five alternately angulated strip portions. Thus, the knitted repeat section 41 includes strip portions 161 extending between the diagonals 151 and UL 18l extending between the diagonals 17l and 19, 18r extending between the diagonals 19 and 17r, 16r extending between the diagonals 17r and 15r, and Mr and 141, which are knitted as a single strip portion extending between the diagonals 15r and 15!, all of which correspond to the similarly designated portions of Figs. 1 and 3. The knitted repeat sections 41 and 42 are severed along the transverse lines 43, 43, each substantially bisecting the strip portion 14r and 14l, and thereby providing a plurality of severed repeat sections, each of which is symmetrical and includes six strip portions. Obviously, the sevcred strip sections of strip 40 may be employed in substantially the same manner as the severed strip sections of strip 36, and will result in a sweater having front panels which extend vertically from their lower edges to the upper end diagonals l and Er. That is, there are no laterally extending, lower end portions 211 and Mr when the severed strip section of only six strip portions is employed.

As an example of the relative strip portion lengths, Fig. 6 is an enlarged view showing a symmetrical section as severed from the strip 36, wherein the strip portions Zlr and 211 are 110 courses, the strip portions 231' and 23l are l130 courses, the strip portions 16;- and 16! are 50 courses, and the strip portions 18r and 18l are also 50 courses. Of course, the relative number of courses in the strips may be varied considerably, both for reasons of size and style, without departing from the scope of the invention.

From the foregoing, it is seen that the present invention provides a highly improved sweater construction and method of making the same which fully accomplish their intended objects, and which are well adapted to meet practical conditions of manufacture and use.

Although the present invention has been described in some detail by way of illustration and example for purposes of clarity of understanding, it is understood that certain changes and modifications may be made within the spirit of the invention and scope of the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:

1. In a jacket sweater construction, a pair of front panels, a pair of shoulders, a yoke, a collar and lapels all formed of a single sheet of continuously knitted fiat fabric with selvage edges, comprising a pair of generally vertically extending front panels, a pair of forward yoke portions each extending obliquely upwards from the upper end of one of said front panels for overlying the shoulder of the wearer, a pair of rearward yoke portions each extending angularly from the upper end of one forward yoke portion and joined together along a mitered juncture, the inner edge of said forward and rearward yoke portions being foldable outwards to define a collar and lapels.

2. A sweater construction according to claim 1, wherein each of said forward yoke portions extends obliquely upwards and inwards toward each other, said rearward yoke portions extending inwards and downwards to define a depending mitered junction.

3. A sweater construction according to claim 1, wherein each of said forward yoke portions extends obliquely upwards and outwards away from each other, and said rearward yoke portions extend inwards and upwards to define an upstanding mitered juncture.

4. In a jacket sweater construction, a pair of front panels, a yoke, a collar and lapels formed of a single piece of continuously knitted fiat fabric with selvage edges, comprising a pair of laterally extending lower front panel portions each terminating along a diagonal, a pair of main front panel portions each extending generally upwards from the diagonal of one of said lower panel portions, a pair of forward yoke portions each extending obliquely upwards from the upper end of one of said main panel portions for overlying the shoulder of the wearer, a pair of rearward yoke portions each extending angularly from the upper end of one forward yoke portion and joined together along a mitered juncture, the inner edge of said forward and rearward yoke portions and said main front panel portion being foldable outwards to define a collar and lapels.

5. A sweater construction according to claim 4, wherein said lower front panel portions each extend inwardly and terminate in a diagonal inclined outwards from the lower edge of the associated lower front panel portion, each of said main panel portions having its inner edge extending upwards from the lower end of the associated diagonal.

6. A sweater construction according to claim 4, wherein said lower front panel portions each extend outwards and terminate in a diagonal declining outwards from the inner edge of the associated lower front panel portion, each of said main front panel portions having its inner edge extending upwards from the upper end of the associated diagonal.

7. A sweater construction according to claim 4, wherein each of said forward yoke portions extends obliquely upwards and inwards toward each other, said rearward yoke portions extending inwards and downwards to define a depending mitered junction.

8. A sweater construction according to claim 4, wherein each of said forward yoke portions extends obliquely upwards and outwards away from each other, and said rearward yoke portions extend inwards and upwards to define an upstanding mitered juncture.

9. In the art of sweater manufacturing, the steps which comprise: knitting a continuous flat strip of material in a repeat pattern of alternately angulated strip portions, severing said strip to define a plurality of sections each including a repeat pattern of said strip different from said knitted repeat pattern, and securing each of strip sections along the sides and top of a sweater back, whereby said strip sections each define a pair of front sweater panels, a pair of shoulders, a yoke, a collar, a pair of lapels, and a pair of ornamental borders.

10. In the art of sweater manufacturing, the steps which comprise: knitting a continuous fiat strip of material in a symmetrical repeat pattern of alternately angulated strip portions, severing spaced ones of said strip portions each along a line longitudinally of the strip portions adjacent to said one strip portion to define a plurality of sections each including a symmetrical repeat pattern of said strip different from said knitted repeat pattern, and securing each of said strip sections along the sides and top of a sweater back, whereby said strip sections each define a pair of front sweater panels, a pair of shoulders, a yoke, a collar, a pair of lapels and ornamental borders.

11. In the art of sweater manufacturing, the steps which comprise: knitting a continuous fiat strip of material in a repeat pattern of at least five alternately angulated strip portions, severing said strip to define a plurality of sections each including a repeat pattern having at least six alternately angulated strip portions, and securing each of said strip sections along the sides and top of a back sweater panel, whereby said strip sections each define a pair of front sweater panels, a pair of shoulders, a yoke, a collar and a pair of lapels.

12. The method of claim 11, further characterized by severing regularly spaced ones of said strip portions to define a plurality of sections each including a plurality of said alternately angulated strip portions and a partial strip portion on each end.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS D. 41,905 Meyers Nov. 7, 1911 2,072,050 Sharps Feb. 23, 1937 FOREIGN PATENTS 12,284 Great Britain 1893

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