US2741771A - Collars for shirts and like garments - Google Patents

Description

April 17, 1956 BlHALY COLLARS FOR SHIRTS AND LIKE GARMENTS Filed Dec. 29, 1953 IN VE' N TOR W WM A T TORNE' Y United Sttes Patent 2,741,771 COLLARS FGR snnrrs AND LIKE GARMENTS Lajos Bihaly, London, England, assignor to Trubenised Company (Registered Trust), Vaduz, Liechtenstein Application December 29, 1953, Serial No. 400,975

Claints priority, application Great Britain .i'anuary 15, 1953 Claims. (Cl. 2-131) In so called one-piece collars for shirts and like-ga'r ments the outer part, or top, of the collar is cut integral with the inner part, or band, and (as at present made) such collars will lie completely fiat before folding about the curved line which separates the collar top and the band.

We have found that while satisfactory collars-can'be cut in this way when the material of the collar is stiffened (either by fusing together the several plies' of fabric band is joined by the collar banding seam to the con-' cave upper edge of the collar top, so that the completed collar will not lie fiat. the collar top by the difierence in curvature between the two parts of the collar plays an important part in determining the proper set of the collar in wear. 1

In accordance with the present invention a one-piece soft collar is so constructed that the collar top is given a spring similar to that obtained in conventionally made collars, thereby greatly improving the appearance and comfort of the collar in wear.

The invention comprises a method of making a one piece soft collar in which three pieces of fabric,'fo'r constitutingv respectively the face ply, the 'lining and' the backing ply of the collar (each piece comprising a'band portion in the form of a curved strip anda top portion integrally joined to the band portion along the upper or outer edge of the latter), are superimposed in register and secured together around their peripheries, characterised in that the lining ply is formed with slits extending from the lower or inner edge of its band portion across at least part of the width of the band and thatduring the securing together of the plies along the-lower edge of the band, longitudinal tension is applied to the band while the upper edge of the band is held against extension, so,

that the band is straightened more or lesscompletely (the band portions of the face and lining pliesbeing thereby distorted and the slits in the lining openedout), the securing together of the plies along the lower edge of the band serving to retain the band in partly straightened condition.

The collar is conveniently made by the well'known' run and turn method, manufacture being carriedout in the conventional manner (except that the lining ply used has the free longitudinal edge of itsband portion divided into a number of separate sections) until the closing operation, during which tension is applied to the band.

The invention thus comprises also a method of mak The spring thus'imparted to a one-piece soft collar in which two similarly shaped, unitary pieces of fabricfor constituting respectively the face ply and the backing ply of the collar, each piece comprising a band portion and a top portion integrally united therewith, and a third unitary piece of fabric for constituting the lining of the collar, which is shaped similarly to the first two pieces but is divided along the free longitudinal edge of its hand portion into a plurality of separate sections, are superimposed in register with one another, the lining constituting one of the outer plies of the assembly, the assembled plies are secured together by stitching around a major part of their periphery, leaving open the free edge of the band portion, the lining ply is secured (either before or after effecting such stitching) against longitudinal extension along the line of junction of the band and top portions thereof, the stitched assembly is turned inside out so as to bring the lining ply between the first two plies, tension is applied between the ends of the band portion of the assembly so as to'extend the free longitudinal edge thereof, and while so tensioned the ,plies are stitched or otherwise fastened together along the free edge of the band portion.

The invention also comprises collars having the structure produced by the above methods, so that the invention includes a one-piece soft collar comprising three superimposed pieces of fabric each comprising a top portion and a band portion integrally united with one another along the fold line of the collar, the superimposed pieces being secured together around their peripheries, characterised in that the band portion of the collar is permanently distorted so that it will not lie flat in the same plane as the top portion, the band portion of the central ply'be'ing divided into a plurality of separate sections which are held spaced apart from one another by their attachment to the two outer plies of fabric.

The accompanying drawing illustrates by way of preferred example a particular manner of carrying the in venti'on into efiect. In this drawing Figure 1 is a plan view of the collar assembly (with parts broken away to show the internal structure) after the running stitch has been made but before the collar is turned; while Figure 2 is a similar view of the assembly after it has been turned and the closing stitch made.

Referring to the drawing, the three similarly shaped and sized, unitary pieces of fabric (face ply 1, lining 2 and backing ply 3) from which the collar is to'be formed are cut to the same shape as in the known one-piece,

collars, each comprisinga curved collar top portion A and'a curved band portion B which areintegrally united with one another along the curved line 4 about which the collar is eventually to be folded. The band portion B of the lining plyis cut through along a plurality of transverse lines, the slits 5 thus produced extending outwardly from the lower edge of the blank across the major part of the width of the band portion. The plies are assembled in register with one'another with the lining uppermost and are secured together along a major portion of their periphery by a running stitch 6, this line of stitching extending completely around the periphery of the assembly except along the free longitudinal edge of the band portion, namely the edge opposite to that along which it is united to the top portion A of the collar.

Either before or after the running operation, a narrow tape 7, which serves to determine the fold line, is ad hesively secured to the hand portion of the lining ply,

the outer edge of the tape running along the desired fold line 4. figure 1 shows the assembly after completion of the foregoing operations. The collar is then turned,

and at this'stage thecollar will still lie completely flat,

and is similar in shape to known one-piece collars. Before the final closing stitch is made, tension is applied plies readilyiyields to deformation. The closing stitch '8 is made whileth'band is in-this stretched condition and the substantially straight form of the .band ,portion 'is thus permanentlyfixed Figure 2 shows thehasseinbly'after the closing stitch hasbee'n made and with-the distorted band portion'B lying-in. a fiat piane, the por tion A being accordingly distorted into. a non-planar form. 'It'will be appreciatedlthafitis still possible for the top portion A tobe laid fiag but the band portion B will not then lie flat'in'thetsameaplane. For the sake of clarity, the degree of distortion is somewhat exaggerated in the drawing. g r

"The attachment of'thetapeito the 1ining2 servesto secure'the lining ply against l'ongitudinal extension along the line ofjunction'of the-band and top portionsof the lining-ply when the band is placedunder tension; The distortionproduce'dby the tensioning operation is thus confined to .the hand side of the desired fold line and the' top portion A- of the collar remains undistorted. The tape also'serves to provide a discontinuity in the stifiness of the collar assembly across the width thereof, thereby increasing the tendency of the collar tofold along the desired line '4.

While the use of such a fold-line-determining tape is preferred, other means may bevemp loye d fortseparating the band portion fromthe topportionvand confiningto the band portion the distortion produced by the stretching during thefinal operation. Thus, extension of the lining ply along the line of junction between the band; and top portions thereof, that..is amn ime desired fold line 4, may be prevented, fortreduced to an-acceptably low value, by means of a row of stitches applied along that line. These stitchesmay pass through the lining ply only, or they may secure the lining to one of the other plies, or to both of the other plies. In the first two cases the stitches along the fold line may conveniently be appliedbeforerthe.runningand turning operations, but in the last case they must obviously be applied only after the plies'have'been brought into their-final,

relative 7 positions.

I claim: 7 v

1. In a method of making a one-piece softcollariby superimposing in register withone another three pieces of fabric, for constituting respectively theface .ply,the liuing'and the backing ply of the collar, each piece comprising aband portion'intlietformof a curvedstrip and atop portion integrally joined tothe band portion along the'iouter edge of theIatter, and securing-thesuperim posed plies together around their peripheries,"the steps of forming the lining ply with siitsextending from the lower edge ofitsbandjportion across at least part of the width ofthe band, and or applying longitudinal tension to the band while holding the-upper edge. of the band against extension, so that :the' bandis straightened, the band'portions .of lthetface .and lining plies being thereby distortcdand therslitszin the lining-opened-out, duringrthe operation ot:securingthe plies together along the lower .edgeof the band,'the'-saidisecuring operation'servin'g to retainthefband in partly straightened "condition.

2. In a method of'making a one-piecesoft collar by superimposing'in'registerwith one another three pieces of-fabric,-for constitutingr'espectively the face ply, the lining andthe backing ply of the collar,.each piece comprising "a band portion in'the form of a curved strip and a top'portion integrally joined to the bandportionaalong the 'outeredge of the latter, thellining constitutingfone of the outer plies of'the assembly, securing the assembled plies together by a running stitch extending arounda major part of their periphery but leaving open the free edge 'cif'thbaifd portionQturning the stitched assembly inside out so as to bring the lining ply between the first two plies, and securing the plies together by a closing stitch extending along the free edge of the band portion, the steps of dividing the lining-along the free longitudinal edgeofits-band portionninto a plurality ofseparatesectionsp'rior'to making said closing stitch, securing'the lining :ply against vlongitudinal 'i6Xt6BSiO1'l along itheiline of junction of as hand a nd top portions prior to: making said closing stitch, and applying tension between the 7 ends 'of'the'band portion of the assembly, so as to extend the free longitudinal edgeithere'of, during: themaking of Y liningtand :the backingply-of: the collar, eachgpiece comprising a bandgportion in the form-of a curved strip and a top -rportion-integrally joinedtto the band portion along the outeredge ofthelatter, theilining constitutingonefof Ii16GHICI P1iS tof the iassernbly, =Securing the assembled plies together by a running stitch extending around-a majonpart of 'theirpperiphery but leaving open the: free edgerof the-band portion, turning the-stitched assembly inside-out so as to bring the liningply between thefirst two;-plies,--and securing the pliesztogether by a closing stitch extending-alongthefree=edge of the band, portion,

the-etppsof dividing-thebandportion of the lining trans.

versely into a plurality of sections -separate. from-one another at-thes free zedge-of the band-but integrallyunited with'one'anothera-atthe Jline of-junction betweenfthe 1 band andtop po rtions of the'liningprior to makingrsaid closing-stitch, adhesively securing to the .band portion of the lining ,a narrow tape with one edge iof said=tapeex-. tending along said 3 line ot junction prior -.to ;making asaid closing-stitch, applying tension to .the :band portion zof thesthreeply assembly afterturning'the assemblysinside out but before making said closing-stitch so as to move the sections-of the-bandportionof thelining awayfrom one another and-distortthe band portions of thesface and backing plies, and maintaining -said;tensio n while making wsaid closing stitch, whereby to securesaid sections in separated relationship to said-face and backing plies.

4.v Anne-piece soft collar-eo'mprising threezsuperimposed pieces of fabric, each ,comprisingla top-portion ands-a .band iportionimtegrally 'united 'with one :another along thelfold linetofithe eollar the superimpose'dapieces being: secured together :around their peripheries, but being-free from one another over'themajor p'ortionmof their areas, characterized, in that the band portion of the collar isgpermanently distorted relative to the .collar top byaelongation z-alongrthe edge remote from the -top' portion, :so that it :will not lie fiat in .the :same plane as thetopzportion, the'ibandtportion-of the central ply being 1 divided by.aveshaped cut-outs into aplurality of separate securing the superimposed plies together around peripheries, but leaving thenrfree from oneanother over themajorportion oftheir ,area,..the bandportion ,of ..the

two outer inost,plies'bfing continuous whilethehand portioniof.thecentral ply istransverselydivided intotsectionsjib y yt-shap'ed cut outs, theedgesofsaid sections 'furthest fronrtheitop portion being attached .to the two outermost ,plies by said peripheral securing means at positions further apart from one another than they were in the undivided fabric, whereby the band portion of the central ply is held with its edge remote from the top portion in elongated condition and means extending along the line of junction of the band and top portions of the central ply for holding the central ply against stretching along said line of junction.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Van Heusen Sept. 14, 1920 Taber May 10, 1932 La Rose Feb. 24, 1948 Liebowitz May 26, 1953

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