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US2699742A - Sewing machine attachment - Google Patents

Sewing machine attachment Download PDF

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Publication number
US2699742A
US2699742A US222018A US22201851A US2699742A US 2699742 A US2699742 A US 2699742A US 222018 A US222018 A US 222018A US 22201851 A US22201851 A US 22201851A US 2699742 A US2699742 A US 2699742A
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Prior art keywords
needle
needle guide
rucher
presser foot
attachment
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US222018A
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Smith Irving
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B35/00Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/08Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for ruching, gathering, casing, or filling lace, ribbons, or bindings; Pleating devices; Cuttlers; Gathering feet; Crimpers; Curlers; Rufflers
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05DINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2305/00Operations on the work before or after sewing
    • D05D2305/02Folding
    • D05D2305/06Folding transversally

Definitions

  • IRVlNG SMITH ATTORNEY Jan. 18, 1955 1.
  • the present invention relates to an attachment for a sewing machine and more particularly to such an attachment by means of which a standard sewing machine in which the direction of stitching may be changed at will, and which sews a regular invisible lock stitch, for example, that known in the trade as the BonnaZ or Cornely style FB machine, may be converted to a ruching sewing machine in which the design tape or lace is sewn to the basic material by the invisible lock stitch.
  • the present invention therefore contemplates the provision of anattachment for a conventional sewing machine of the Bonnaz or Cornely type that enables ruches, soutache and the like to be sewed to a material so that the decorative net, lace etc., cannot be ordinarily separated but is sewed thereto by an invisible lock stitch.
  • the present invention therefore contemplates the provision of an attachment Which may be easily mounted upon or removed from a conventional Bonn'azzing or Cornely sewing machine forming a lock stitch.
  • this attachment ruches and the like can be sewn to fabric with a lock stitch which cannot be unraveled or slipped.
  • the present invention contemplates the provision of such an attachment which is comparatively inexpensive to manufacture and therefore at relatively low cost convert existing commercial machines to perform a type of sewing which such machines otherwise could not accomplish.
  • the attachment of the present invention may be detachably mounted on existing sewing machines without basically changing them so that they can readily be adapted for the purposes here proposed and then upon removing my attachment r'econverted for the purposes for which they were originally designed.
  • the invention comprises a rucher, together with means for mounting this rucher for reciprocation by the existing presser foot and needle guide reciprocation mechanism.
  • a removable collar, a ring bearing, and other associated parts provide for carrying and reciproeating the presser foot, needle guide and needle in the usual manner, these parts being constructed and arranged for assembly on the existing machine by the use of simple tools such as a screwdriver.
  • the invention contemplates the installation of the ruching attachment with a minimum of disturbance to the machine, so that the attachment may be applied or removed by a machine operator without the need for a skilled mechanic.
  • FIG. 1 is an elevation through my attachment, in partial section and with the rucher away from the needle guide and therefore in open position.
  • Fig. 2 is a similar view, broken away to foreshorten the drawing, the elements of the attachment being shown in a succeeding position with the rucher moved toward the needle guide and the foot down.
  • Fig. 3 is another similar view, the elements of the attachment in a furthersucceeding position "with the rucher moved further toward the needle guide.
  • Fig. 4 is another similar view, the rucher moved further toward closed position against the needle guide which is positioned down on the material and with the foot in raised position.
  • Fig. 5 is a further similar View with the rucher in closed position and the other elements correspondingly positioned.
  • 1 Fig. 6 is a rear view of my apparatus as illustrated in Fig. 7 is a view on the line 7--7 of Fig. 6.
  • Fig. 8 is a view on the line 8--8 of Fig. 6.
  • Fig. 9 is a View on the line 9--9 of Fig. 5
  • Fi 10 is a section on the line 10-10 of Fig, 5.
  • m'y attachment may be mounted on the head of a sewing machine (not shown since it may be any one of a number of commercial sewing machines by means of which a lock stitc may be formed and comprising means for changing the direction of stitching, as exemplified by the machine known in the trade as the Bonnaz or Cornely style FB sewing machine).
  • a sewing machine includes the frame formed by the block or support 10.
  • the conventional machine to which my ruching attachrnent is to be applied comprises various vertically reciprocating members actuated by cams or the like disposed within the sewing machine head. These reciproeating members are arranged to raise and lower the needle. the needle guide and the presser foot, and further to impart a horizontal movement to the presser foot for feeding the work to the needle. These reciprocating movements are all interrelated within the sewing machine, is known manner.
  • My attachment utilises the reciprocating members of the conventional machine,- which are mounted on block 10, in order to apply the ruching attachment thereto, it being necessary to correlate the movement of the rucher with the usual movements of the conventional needle, needle guide and presser foot.
  • the rucher 12 (see Fig. 1) automatically feeds the ruche or ruching that is the decorative lace, tape and the like 14, into sewing position on the fabric or material 16, on which it is sewn as a design by the needle 18.
  • the rucher 12 is rotated in a circular movement with the needle 18 as a center to form the ruching design by conventional, manually operated crank means, which forms a part of the conventional Bonnaz or PE Cornely Paris sewing machine and which therefore need not be shown in detail.
  • a handle (not shown) through a train of gears rotates the hollow shaft 20 on which the rucher 12 is carried.
  • the conventional hollow needle guide actuating shaft 20 is mounted for rotation in accordance with the direction of stitching and for vertical reciprocation to raise and lower the needle guide 26 in the usual manner, being supported in the lower and upper bearings 22 and 24, respectively, the direction of reciprocation being indicated by the arrow 28.
  • the needle guide reciprocating lever 30, carries a pin 39 (Fig. 6) which engages a further needle guide reciprocating member (not shown) within the sewing machine head. Pin 39 is thus raised and lowered in proper timing relationship with respect to the needle 18 and the presser foot which feeds the work toward the needle, in order to hold the work during the penetration thereof by the needle 18.
  • I mount the rucher 12 at the end of the fulcrum or lever 50 as by the set screw 52 and rod 54.
  • This movement of the pin in the slot causes the fulcrum or lever to be rotated so that the rucher 12 is moved toward the needle guide 26.
  • the rucher 12 is cut out at 56 so that the needle guide 26 is received in the slot formed thereby, which permits the needle to pass through the ruche or ruching 14 to sew it to the fabric or material 16.
  • the needle guide 26 is secured to and extends down from the yoke 44 at the center thereof.
  • automatic reciprocation of the hollow shaft 20, in which the needle 18 is reciprocated moves the needle guide 26 and the yoke 44 up and down and swings the rucher 12 toward and away from the needle guide by the action of screw 46 moving in the slot 48.
  • tension spring 58 is secured to the fulcrum or rucher carrying lever 50 and the other end thereof to the yoke 44 so that this spring normally pulls the rucher toward the needle guide 26.
  • the presser foot 64 Secured to and extending down from the inner race 60 of the ball bearing 62, I provide the presser foot 64, the post 66 of which is positioned in the yoke 44.
  • the end of the presser foot is bifurcated so that the needle guide 26 may be reciprocably received when either the foot or guide are moved up and. down in relation to each other.
  • the yoke 44 is rotated about the needle 18 as the center to carry with it the presser foot 64 in a circular path.
  • the needle 18 is reciprocated for the sewing operation in the conventional manner, which therefore need not be described, at the center of and in the hollow shaft 20 and upper mounting 22.
  • the rucher 12 and therefore the presser foot 64 are manually rotated in order to feed the ruche or ruching 14 in accordance with the design and the ruche or ruching sewed to the fabric or material 16 by the reciprocation of the needle 18.
  • the presser foot 64 is given a compound movement to automatically and concurrently vertically and horizontally reciprocate it in order to hold the ruche or ruching to sew it to the material and push the material and ruche or ruching away from the needle 18 after the sewing operation, the mechanism for which movement I shall now describe.
  • the outer race 68 of the ball bearing 62 is detachably mounted, as by the wing set screw 69, on the end of the crank arm 70, which crank arm extends from the bracket 72 to which it is secured by any satisfactory means such as the pin 74.
  • crank arm 70 bends inwardly toward the upper mounting 24 and is pivoted at the upper end to the hollow block 76 as by means of the set screws 78.
  • the block 78 is secured to the slidable vertical presser for reciprocating bar 80 by the finger 82 and which bar 80 is reciprocated by conventional cam or similar mechanism of the machine on which my attachment is mounted by means of the member 84 extending through the block or support 10 at the rear thereof. 7
  • crank arm 70 moves the ball bearing 62 down and up, and so, the presser foot 64 which is attached to the inner race 60.
  • the presser foot 62 in addition to its automatic vertical movement, as heretofore described and acc mplished by the reciprocation of the bar 80 and fin er 82, which latter is secured to a conventional mechanism f und on the sewing machine, must be moved automatically horizontally in proper sequence to the left and right of Fig. l in order to push the material after the sewing operation away from the needle and bring the presser foot back to position to lower it against the ruche or ruching and the material for the next sewing operation.
  • the reciprocable bar 96 slidable in the straps 98 and 100 mounted on the block or support 10 of my attachment, is automatically reciprocated by a sewing machine mechanism which actuates the finger 102 extending from the rear of the attachment.
  • This vertical reciprocation of the horizontal presser foot movement bar 96 is produced by conventional cam or similar mechanism within the sewing machine and its action is conventional, its timing relationship with respect to the needle guide movement and vertical presser foot movement being such as to draw each finished stitch away from beneath needle 18 after needle 18 is withdrawn from the work following completion of a stitch.
  • a beveled groove 114 having a cam-like surface, is provided in the collar 105 in which the upper member 116 of the finger 110 slides as the collar is reciprocated by the movement of the bar 96, it being understood that the collar is not fixed to the shaft 86 but slides on it.
  • the lower member 118 of the finger 110 is mounted between the eccentric or cam 92 and the collar 94 extending from the bracket 72 secured on the crank arm 70.
  • the cam or eccentric 92 is slidably held on shoulderers at the lower end of the support 108.
  • the upper member 116 is pulled by the spring 120 in a clockwise direction, as viewed in Fig. 1, about the pin 122 to pull the ball bearing 62 and the presser foot 64 to the left of Fig. 1, which motion moves the ruching or ruche 14 and the material or fabric 16 to which it has been sewed away from the needle 18 for the next sewing operation.
  • All vertical movements of the needle 18, the hollow shaft 20 on which the rucher 12 is carried, the needle guide 26, the outer race 68 and the horizontal movement thereof to control the presser foot for feeding the sewed material away from the needle are automatically performed by connecting the proper parts of my attachment to the mechanisms found on the sewing machine on which my attachment is mounted.
  • the mechanism which is provided in the sewing machine on which my attachment is mounted is arranged to perform the operations in the following sequence:
  • the needle starts to move down toward the fabric or material.
  • the needle guide after downward movement of the needle commences, follows with its movement down and the rucher commences movement to closing position toward the needle guide. This of course feeds the ruche or ruching into position.
  • the needle guide is moved into position and the needle enters the ruche or ruching and the material to make the lock stitch.
  • the presser foot which is at raised or upward position, moves toward the path of reciproca- 11011101: the needle and then down against the material to hol it.
  • the needle moves up to complete the stitch and both it (the needle) and the needle guide continue their upward motion.
  • the rucher then moves away from the needle guide to open position to make ready for its next movement.
  • the presser foot held down against the ruche or ruching and the material is automatically moved in a horizontal direction away from the needle to thereby push away and feed the sewed material for the next stitch.
  • the needle and needle guide move down and the rucher commences to move in.
  • the presser foot which has been moved to its outward position moves up to release the sewed material and commence the operations over again, it being understood that the presser foot is automaticall moved at its upper position toward the needle so that it (the presser foot) can commence its downward movementt1 before the needle is removed after making the stitc It should be noted that certain portions of the device thus far described form a part of a standard Bonnaz or Cornely sewing machine model FD.
  • presser foot crank 70 together with the mechanism for imparting to this crank 70 a vertical movement and a horizontal movement in the direction of stitching
  • hollow rod 20 together with the means for imparting to it a vertical movement and a rotary motion to change the direction of stitching
  • needle 18 and the means for imparting to it a vertical movement all of these move ments being coordinated by conventional mechanism within the machine, together with the manually operable crank and mechanism driven thereby which rotates shafts 86 and 20 to change the direction of stitching.
  • My attachment comprises the hollow ring ball bearing 62 which carries the presser foot 64 and imparts thereto its conventional movement; the freely rotatable nonreciprocating collar 40 to which the upper end of rucher carrying lever 50 is pivotally secured; the means for actuating the lever 50 to draw the rucher toward the needle guide as the latter descends together with the means forrotating collar 40 as the direction of stitching is changed, all of these various elements being so designed and arranged that they may be conveniently attached to or removed from a sewing machine of this character. This change is possible with a minimum of disturbance to the normally used parts of the machine in order that it may be quickly and easily restored to condition for normal use.
  • a ruching attachment for a sewing machine in which the direction of stitching may be varied at will throughout a complete circle said sewing machine comprising a needle and means for vertically reciprocating the same, means for vertically reciprocating a needle guide, means for rotating together said needle and said needle guide reciprocating means as the direction of stitching is varied, and means for vertically reciprocating a presser foot and imparting thereto a horizontal movement in the direction of stitching, said attachment comprising a hollow ring bearing having inner and outer portions, said outer portion being carried by said presser foot reciprocating and moving means; means for rotating said inner bearing portion as the direction of stitching is varied; a presser foot carried by said inner bearing portion; a needle guide; supporting means for said needle guide extending through said inner bearing portion and carried by said needle guide reciprocating means; a rucher, means revoluble as said direction of stitching is varied supporting said rucher for movement toward and away from said needle guide; and means carried by said needle guide supporting means and disposed to move said rucher toward said needle guide as said needle
  • a ruching attachment for a sewing machine in which the direction of stitching may be varied at will throughout a complete circle said sewing machine comprising a needle and means for vertically reciprocating the same, means for vertically reciprocating a needle guide, means for rotating together said needle and said needle guide reciprocating means as the direction of stitching is varied, and means for vertically reciprocating a presser foot and imparting thereto a horizontal movement in the direction of stitching, said attachment comprising a hollow ring bearing having inner and outer portions, said outer portion being carried by said presser foot reciprocating and moving means; means for rotating said inner bearing portion as the direction of stitching is varied; a presser foot carried by said inner bearing portion; a needle guide; supporting means for said needle guide extending through said inner bearing portion and carried by said needle guide reciprocating means; a freely revoluble non-reciprocating supporting member disposed to revolve about the axis of said needle; a rucher disposed at the end of an arm, said arm being pivotally connected to said revoluble supporting member for movement
  • a ruching attachment according to claim 2 in which said rucher arm extends through said inner bearing portion.
  • a ruching attachment for a sewing machine in which the direction of stitching may be varied at will throughout a complete circle said sewing machine comprising a needle and means for vertically reciprocating the same, means for vertically reciprocating a needle guide, means for rotating together said needle, and said needle guide reciprocating means as the direction of stitching is varied, and means for vertically reciprocating a presser foot and imparting thereto a horizontal movement in the direction of stitching, said attachment comprising a hollow ring bearing having inner and outer portions, said outer portion being carried by said presser foot reciprocating and moving means; means for rotating said inner bearing portion as the direction of stitching is varied; a presser foot carried by said inner bearing portion; a needle guide; supporting means for said needle guide extending through said inner bearing portion and carried by said needle guide reciprocating means; a freely revoluble non-reciprocating collar disposed to revolve about the axis of said needle; an arm pivotally connected to said collar and extending through said inner bearing portion for movement toward and away from said needle guide, said arm having ca
  • a ruching attachment according to claim 5 wherein said arm has an elongated slot therein comprising said camming surface, and wherein said means carried by said needle guide supporting means comprises means movable longitudinally within said slot.
  • a needle guide means to mount said needle guide for up'and down reciprocation, a ring bearing disposed concentrically of the needle guide and having inner and outer portions, means to mount said bearing for vertical up and down reciprocation about its axis, means to rotate the needle guide and the inner ring portion in the same direction simultaneously and at the same angular rate of rotation about the common axis of said needle guide and bearing, a presser foot fixed to said inner ring portion, means to move said bearing sideways in all angular positions of the inner ring portion, a rucher, means to rotate the'rucher together with the needle guide about the axis of the needle guide, and means controlled by reciprocation of the needle guide to oscillate the rucher about an axis perpendicular to the reciprocation of the needle guide in all angular positions of said needle guide downwardly, toward the needle guide and upwardly away from said needle guide.
  • a presser foot means to mount said presser foot for vertical reciprocation, means to rotate said presser foot about a vertical axis, means controlled by the vertical reciprocation of the presser foot to reciprocate the presser foot horizontally in all angular positions of rotation of said presser foot, a rucher, means to mount the rucher directly in front of the presser foot, means to rotate the rucher about said vertical axis in the same direction and following the rotation of said presser foot, and means to oscillate the rucher in all angular positions of said rucher, downwardly toward the presser foot and upwardly away from said presser foot.
  • An attachment for a sewing machine comprising a hollow shaft mounted for up and down reciprocation, a needle guide attached to said hollow shaft, a ring bearing comprising inner and outer ring portions surrounding said hollow shaft and coaxial with respect thereto, a presser foot attached to the inner ring portion, a fixed collar surrounding said hollow shaft, a rucher pivoted to said fixed collar, said rucher being formed with an inclined slot, a pin fixed to the hollow shaft and passing through said slot for oscillating said rucher as said hollow shaft reciprocates, means to rotate said hollow shaft and inner ring portion simultaneously through equal angles, said bearing being movable up and down, and means controlled by the up and down movement of said bearing to cause said bearing and presser foot to move sideways in all angular positions of said inner ring portion.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

Jab-. 13, 1955 l. SMITH 2,699,742
' SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT Filed April 20. 1951 5 Sheets'-Sh0e"t 1 IN V EN TOR.
ATTORNEY Jan. 18, 1-955 l. SMITH 2,699,742
SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT Filed April 20, 195] 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTORM 50 IRVING s lTH BY 54 I I2 I A ORNEY Jan. 18, 1955 ,7 MrrH 2,699,742
SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT Filed April 20, 1951 5 $h96tS-Sh86t 3 INVEN TOR. IRVING SMITH ATTORNEY Jan. 18, 1955 SMITH 2,699,742
- SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT Filed April 20, 1951 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 I um i J05 4 1 [r Z: 1/0 6 4 E0- 1/: a s ML I08 K42 4 a2 W30 7a. 52 58 4 a L INVENTOR.
IRVlNG SMITH ATTORNEY Jan. 18, 1955 1. SMITH SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed April 20, 195] 0 Z Z 9 a 3 3 0 a a RH a 4 M I w mm a a J m m m 4 u I v 3 NM 8 .7. P lf u n II S o W 4 6 M a L 6 .M z 3 M L fi o 5 h/ M a n o 5 8 Z a 8 2 M U 3 83W I), III llll s M F 1-- M 0 M o A W K m w 3 a 5 9 I ATTORNEY United States Patent 2,699,742 SEWlNG MACHINE ATTACHMENT Irving Smith, New York, N. Y.
Application April 20, 1951, Serial No. 222,018 11 Claims. (Cl. 112-100) The present invention relates to an attachment for a sewing machine and more particularly to such an attachment by means of which a standard sewing machine in which the direction of stitching may be changed at will, and which sews a regular invisible lock stitch, for example, that known in the trade as the BonnaZ or Cornely style FB machine, may be converted to a ruching sewing machine in which the design tape or lace is sewn to the basic material by the invisible lock stitch.
Heretofore, commercial sewing machines have been available for sewing materials together by means of a lock stitch. However, with such machines, it has not been possible to sew ruches, piping, soutache, sequins and the like in a decorative design to a material forming a background therefor.
Therefore, prior to my invention, lace, netting or any decorative material has been sewed to hats, dresses and other garments in a selected design having definite curvilinear form by means of a conventional stitch of the yarn, which, upon inadvertent breakage, would unravel the stitches to thereby permit the lace, netting and the like to be separated and pulled away from the hat, dress 'or other garment.
As a result, hats, dresses or other garments having ruches, soutache, piping etc., sewed to them by machines heretofore available did not have the lasting qualities of wear desired since they could not easily or inexpensively be repaired should the decorative ruching and the like be pulled away as it so often was.
The feminine wearer very often hesitated purchasing hats, dresses or garments to which a becoming and desirable ruching and the like were sewed because of the always present danger or likelihood of catching the net, lace or similar decorative material which would then cause the hat, dress or garment to be discarded because the stitches formed by the thread or yarn would then ijnravel.
The present invention therefore contemplates the provision of anattachment for a conventional sewing machine of the Bonnaz or Cornely type that enables ruches, soutache and the like to be sewed to a material so that the decorative net, lace etc., cannot be ordinarily separated but is sewed thereto by an invisible lock stitch.
Heretofore, although available in great numbers, sewing machines forming lock stitches or thosfe which could not slip and in which the direction of. stitching may be changed at will throughout a complete circle, were not i'lsed with ruchers since there was no means of converting them to such use.
The present invention therefore contemplates the provision of an attachment Which may be easily mounted upon or removed from a conventional Bonn'azzing or Cornely sewing machine forming a lock stitch. By means of this attachment ruches and the like can be sewn to fabric with a lock stitch which cannot be unraveled or slipped.
By means of my invention, an entirely new field is opened up for sewing machines which heretofore were unavailable to sew ruching to hats, dresses, garments and thelike thus enabling owners of such machines to enter a field heretofore unavailable to them and with a relatively low investment.
Further, by means of my novel sewing machine .attachment, ruching and the like can now be sewed to the material forming the background therefor so that the net, lace or other decorative fabric will not be separated from the material to which it is sewed because the stitches will not unravel should the decoration be caught and the yarn or thread break.
Further, the present invention contemplates the provision of such an attachment which is comparatively inexpensive to manufacture and therefore at relatively low cost convert existing commercial machines to perform a type of sewing which such machines otherwise could not accomplish.
The attachment of the present invention may be detachably mounted on existing sewing machines without basically changing them so that they can readily be adapted for the purposes here proposed and then upon removing my attachment r'econverted for the purposes for which they were originally designed.
Generally, the invention comprises a rucher, together with means for mounting this rucher for reciprocation by the existing presser foot and needle guide reciprocation mechanism. A removable collar, a ring bearing, and other associated parts provide for carrying and reciproeating the presser foot, needle guide and needle in the usual manner, these parts being constructed and arranged for assembly on the existing machine by the use of simple tools such as a screwdriver.
The invention contemplates the installation of the ruching attachment with a minimum of disturbance to the machine, so that the attachment may be applied or removed by a machine operator without the need for a skilled mechanic.
These other and further objects and advantages of the present invention will be clear from the following description and the drawings appended thereto, in which Fig. 1 is an elevation through my attachment, in partial section and with the rucher away from the needle guide and therefore in open position.
Fig. 2 is a similar view, broken away to foreshorten the drawing, the elements of the attachment being shown in a succeeding position with the rucher moved toward the needle guide and the foot down.
Fig. 3 is another similar view, the elements of the attachment in a furthersucceeding position "with the rucher moved further toward the needle guide.
Fig. 4 is another similar view, the rucher moved further toward closed position against the needle guide which is positioned down on the material and with the foot in raised position. I I
Fig. 5 is a further similar View with the rucher in closed position and the other elements correspondingly positioned. 1 Fig. 6 is a rear view of my apparatus as illustrated in Fig. 7 is a view on the line 7--7 of Fig. 6.
Fig. 8 is a view on the line 8--8 of Fig. 6.
Fig. 9 is a View on the line 9--9 of Fig. 5
Fi 10 is a section on the line 10-10 of Fig, 5.
Throughout my description, I shall refer to the inside of my attachment as that part at the center of Fig. 1, to the front of my attachment as that part shown in Fig. 1 land go the back of my attachment as that part shown in Referring now to the drawings, m'y attachment may be mounted on the head of a sewing machine (not shown since it may be any one of a number of commercial sewing machines by means of which a lock stitc may be formed and comprising means for changing the direction of stitching, as exemplified by the machine known in the trade as the Bonnaz or Cornely style FB sewing machine). Such a machine includes the frame formed by the block or support 10.
The conventional machine to which my ruching attachrnent is to be applied comprises various vertically reciprocating members actuated by cams or the like disposed within the sewing machine head. These reciproeating members are arranged to raise and lower the needle. the needle guide and the presser foot, and further to impart a horizontal movement to the presser foot for feeding the work to the needle. These reciprocating movements are all interrelated within the sewing machine, is known manner. My attachment utilises the reciprocating members of the conventional machine,- which are mounted on block 10, in order to apply the ruching attachment thereto, it being necessary to correlate the movement of the rucher with the usual movements of the conventional needle, needle guide and presser foot.
The rucher 12 (see Fig. 1) automatically feeds the ruche or ruching that is the decorative lace, tape and the like 14, into sewing position on the fabric or material 16, on which it is sewn as a design by the needle 18. The rucher 12 is rotated in a circular movement with the needle 18 as a center to form the ruching design by conventional, manually operated crank means, which forms a part of the conventional Bonnaz or PE Cornely Paris sewing machine and which therefore need not be shown in detail.
In order to rotate the rucher as desired, a handle (not shown) through a train of gears rotates the hollow shaft 20 on which the rucher 12 is carried.
The conventional hollow needle guide actuating shaft 20 is mounted for rotation in accordance with the direction of stitching and for vertical reciprocation to raise and lower the needle guide 26 in the usual manner, being supported in the lower and upper bearings 22 and 24, respectively, the direction of reciprocation being indicated by the arrow 28.
To accomplish this up and down movement of the shaft 20, I mount the reciprocable lever 30 in grooves or slots provided in the straps 32 and 34 secured to the block or support 10.
Extending from the lever 30 integral therewith, I provide the yoke 36 in which the collar 38 on the shaft 20 rotates.
The needle guide reciprocating lever 30, carries a pin 39 (Fig. 6) which engages a further needle guide reciprocating member (not shown) within the sewing machine head. Pin 39 is thus raised and lowered in proper timing relationship with respect to the needle 18 and the presser foot which feeds the work toward the needle, in order to hold the work during the penetration thereof by the needle 18.
Thus, when the lever 30, through the operation of the sewing machine, is reciprocated in sequence by the sewing machine mechanism to which it is connected, the rucher 12 is swung toward and away from the needle guide 26, as I shall now describe.
I secure the freely rotatable collar or union 40 so that it (the union) will be rotated along with the shaft 20 but will not be reciprocated therewith. Mounted on shaft 20 below the rotatable collar 40 I provide the member 42 at the end of which I provide the yoke 44, the purpose of which I shall further describe.
Secured to the member 42, I provide the screw 46, which is slidably positioned in the elongated slot 48 in the fulcrum or rucher carrying lever 50, the upper end of lever 50 being pivotally secured to the rotatable nonreciprocating collar 40 by a pivot screw 41.
I mount the rucher 12 at the end of the fulcrum or lever 50 as by the set screw 52 and rod 54.
When the shaft 20 is moved down from the position illustrated in Fig. 2 to that illustrated in Fig. 1, the member 42 is forced down along with it causing the pin or set screw 46 to move down in the elongated slot or camming surface 48.
This movement of the pin in the slot causes the fulcrum or lever to be rotated so that the rucher 12 is moved toward the needle guide 26.
The rucher 12 is cut out at 56 so that the needle guide 26 is received in the slot formed thereby, which permits the needle to pass through the ruche or ruching 14 to sew it to the fabric or material 16.
The needle guide 26 is secured to and extends down from the yoke 44 at the center thereof. Thus, automatic reciprocation of the hollow shaft 20, in which the needle 18 is reciprocated, moves the needle guide 26 and the yoke 44 up and down and swings the rucher 12 toward and away from the needle guide by the action of screw 46 moving in the slot 48.
One end of the tension spring 58 is secured to the fulcrum or rucher carrying lever 50 and the other end thereof to the yoke 44 so that this spring normally pulls the rucher toward the needle guide 26.
Secured to and extending down from the inner race 60 of the ball bearing 62, I provide the presser foot 64, the post 66 of which is positioned in the yoke 44. The end of the presser foot is bifurcated so that the needle guide 26 may be reciprocably received when either the foot or guide are moved up and. down in relation to each other.
Thus, when the rucher 12 is manually rotated by means of the hollow shaft 20, and the train of gears, the yoke 44 is rotated about the needle 18 as the center to carry with it the presser foot 64 in a circular path.
The needle 18 is reciprocated for the sewing operation in the conventional manner, which therefore need not be described, at the center of and in the hollow shaft 20 and upper mounting 22.
To recapitulate, the rucher 12 and therefore the presser foot 64 are manually rotated in order to feed the ruche or ruching 14 in accordance with the design and the ruche or ruching sewed to the fabric or material 16 by the reciprocation of the needle 18.
The presser foot 64 is given a compound movement to automatically and concurrently vertically and horizontally reciprocate it in order to hold the ruche or ruching to sew it to the material and push the material and ruche or ruching away from the needle 18 after the sewing operation, the mechanism for which movement I shall now describe.
The outer race 68 of the ball bearing 62 is detachably mounted, as by the wing set screw 69, on the end of the crank arm 70, which crank arm extends from the bracket 72 to which it is secured by any satisfactory means such as the pin 74.
The crank arm 70 bends inwardly toward the upper mounting 24 and is pivoted at the upper end to the hollow block 76 as by means of the set screws 78.
The block 78 is secured to the slidable vertical presser for reciprocating bar 80 by the finger 82 and which bar 80 is reciprocated by conventional cam or similar mechanism of the machine on which my attachment is mounted by means of the member 84 extending through the block or support 10 at the rear thereof. 7
Thus, the crank arm 70 moves the ball bearing 62 down and up, and so, the presser foot 64 which is attached to the inner race 60.
In order to fully understand the construction by means of which the presser foot 64 is automatically reciprocated horizontally, I shall first describe the mechanism by means of which the ball bearing is manually moved so that the members mounted thereon are also moved an the selected horizontal direction to form the ruching The shaft 86 which is rotated manually by means of the handle, is mounted for rotation in the upper bracket 88 and the lower bracket 90, both of which are carried by the block or support 10.
On this shaft 86, I mount the cam or eccentric 90 which is rotated in the collar 94 extending from and inte ral with the bracket 72.
Thus, as the shaft 86 is manually rotated. it will move the crank arm 70 about the pivot f rmed by the set screws 69 in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction as viewed in Fig. 1.
This will of course move the ball bearing 62 and so the rucher 12, needle guide 26 and presser foot 64 correspondingly to the left or right of Fig. 1. As pointed out, this motion is manually performed.
The presser foot 62 in addition to its automatic vertical movement, as heretofore described and acc mplished by the reciprocation of the bar 80 and fin er 82, which latter is secured to a conventional mechanism f und on the sewing machine, must be moved automatically horizontally in proper sequence to the left and right of Fig. l in order to push the material after the sewing operation away from the needle and bring the presser foot back to position to lower it against the ruche or ruching and the material for the next sewing operation.
This is accomplished by the mechanism which I shall now describe. The reciprocable bar 96, slidable in the straps 98 and 100 mounted on the block or support 10 of my attachment, is automatically reciprocated by a sewing machine mechanism which actuates the finger 102 extending from the rear of the attachment. This vertical reciprocation of the horizontal presser foot movement bar 96 is produced by conventional cam or similar mechanism within the sewing machine and its action is conventional, its timing relationship with respect to the needle guide movement and vertical presser foot movement being such as to draw each finished stitch away from beneath needle 18 after needle 18 is withdrawn from the work following completion of a stitch.
At the end of the reciprocable bar, I provide the fork member 104 which is mounted in the grooved collar 105 which collar is slidable on the shaft 86.
Secured to the shaft 86 as by the pins 106, I provide the support 108 which carries the beveled finger 110 which finger is secured to the support by the pivot pm 112.
A beveled groove 114, having a cam-like surface, is provided in the collar 105 in which the upper member 116 of the finger 110 slides as the collar is reciprocated by the movement of the bar 96, it being understood that the collar is not fixed to the shaft 86 but slides on it.
The lower member 118 of the finger 110 is mounted between the eccentric or cam 92 and the collar 94 extending from the bracket 72 secured on the crank arm 70. The cam or eccentric 92 is slidably held on shoulderers at the lower end of the support 108.
Thus, as the grooved collar 105 is automatically moved downward by the movement of the bar 96, the upper member 116 is pushed by it in a counterclockwise direction against the tension of the spring 120, one end of which is wound on the pin 122 extending from the support 108 and the other end of which is mounted in the cam or eccentric 92, which forces the lower member 118 to rotate in a counterclockwise direction (each as viewed in Fig; 1), thereby forcing the collar 94 and the crank arm 70 to also move in a counterclockwise direction, as viewed in Fig. 1. This moves the ball bearing 62, which is mounted on the crank arm 70, and the presser foot 64 to the right of Fig. 1.
As the grooved collar 105 is moved upwardly by the bar 96, the upper member 116 is pulled by the spring 120 in a clockwise direction, as viewed in Fig. 1, about the pin 122 to pull the ball bearing 62 and the presser foot 64 to the left of Fig. 1, which motion moves the ruching or ruche 14 and the material or fabric 16 to which it has been sewed away from the needle 18 for the next sewing operation.
To sum up at this point, all rotational movements that selectively position the rucher 12, needle guide 26, presser foot 64 and inner race 60 are manually performed by rotation of the shaft 86, it being understood that the ball bearing 62 is correspondingly moved to the right or left of Fig. 1 to accommodate it to the selective movement of the rucher.
All vertical movements of the needle 18, the hollow shaft 20 on which the rucher 12 is carried, the needle guide 26, the outer race 68 and the horizontal movement thereof to control the presser foot for feeding the sewed material away from the needle are automatically performed by connecting the proper parts of my attachment to the mechanisms found on the sewing machine on which my attachment is mounted.
To sew the ruche or ruching to the fabric or material, the mechanism which is provided in the sewing machine on which my attachment is mounted, is arranged to perform the operations in the following sequence:
As the fabric or material to which the ruche or ruching has been sewed, is being pulled away by the action of the presser foot, the needle starts to move down toward the fabric or material. The needle guide, after downward movement of the needle commences, follows with its movement down and the rucher commences movement to closing position toward the needle guide. This of course feeds the ruche or ruching into position.
The needle guide is moved into position and the needle enters the ruche or ruching and the material to make the lock stitch. When the needle is about to come out as it is moved upward, the presser foot, which is at raised or upward position, moves toward the path of reciproca- 11011101: the needle and then down against the material to hol it.
As the material and ruching are held by the presser foot, the needle moves up to complete the stitch and both it (the needle) and the needle guide continue their upward motion. The rucher then moves away from the needle guide to open position to make ready for its next movement.
As the needle guide and needle move upwardly, the presser foot held down against the ruche or ruching and the material is automatically moved in a horizontal direction away from the needle to thereby push away and feed the sewed material for the next stitch.
As the material is being pulled away, the needle and needle guide move down and the rucher commences to move in. As the needle enters the ruche or ruching and the fabric or material, the presser foot, which has been moved to its outward position moves up to release the sewed material and commence the operations over again, it being understood that the presser foot is automaticall moved at its upper position toward the needle so that it (the presser foot) can commence its downward movementt1 before the needle is removed after making the stitc It should be noted that certain portions of the device thus far described form a part of a standard Bonnaz or Cornely sewing machine model FD. These comprise the presser foot crank 70 together with the mechanism for imparting to this crank 70 a vertical movement and a horizontal movement in the direction of stitching; the hollow rod 20 together with the means for imparting to it a vertical movement and a rotary motion to change the direction of stitching; the needle 18 and the means for imparting to it a vertical movement, all of these move ments being coordinated by conventional mechanism within the machine, together with the manually operable crank and mechanism driven thereby which rotates shafts 86 and 20 to change the direction of stitching.
My attachment comprises the hollow ring ball bearing 62 which carries the presser foot 64 and imparts thereto its conventional movement; the freely rotatable nonreciprocating collar 40 to which the upper end of rucher carrying lever 50 is pivotally secured; the means for actuating the lever 50 to draw the rucher toward the needle guide as the latter descends together with the means forrotating collar 40 as the direction of stitching is changed, all of these various elements being so designed and arranged that they may be conveniently attached to or removed from a sewing machine of this character. This change is possible with a minimum of disturbance to the normally used parts of the machine in order that it may be quickly and easily restored to condition for normal use.
While I- have described in detail a certain embodiment of my invention, it will be understood that I do not intend to be limited to the details thereof as many changes and modifications may be made thereto without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.
I claim:
1. A ruching attachment for a sewing machine in which the direction of stitching may be varied at will throughout a complete circle, said sewing machine comprising a needle and means for vertically reciprocating the same, means for vertically reciprocating a needle guide, means for rotating together said needle and said needle guide reciprocating means as the direction of stitching is varied, and means for vertically reciprocating a presser foot and imparting thereto a horizontal movement in the direction of stitching, said attachment comprising a hollow ring bearing having inner and outer portions, said outer portion being carried by said presser foot reciprocating and moving means; means for rotating said inner bearing portion as the direction of stitching is varied; a presser foot carried by said inner bearing portion; a needle guide; supporting means for said needle guide extending through said inner bearing portion and carried by said needle guide reciprocating means; a rucher, means revoluble as said direction of stitching is varied supporting said rucher for movement toward and away from said needle guide; and means carried by said needle guide supporting means and disposed to move said rucher toward said needle guide as said needle guide moves downwardly, whereby ruching will be fed beneath said needle in the direction of stitching prior to each stitching operation thereof.
2. A ruching attachment for a sewing machine in which the direction of stitching may be varied at will throughout a complete circle, said sewing machine comprising a needle and means for vertically reciprocating the same, means for vertically reciprocating a needle guide, means for rotating together said needle and said needle guide reciprocating means as the direction of stitching is varied, and means for vertically reciprocating a presser foot and imparting thereto a horizontal movement in the direction of stitching, said attachment comprising a hollow ring bearing having inner and outer portions, said outer portion being carried by said presser foot reciprocating and moving means; means for rotating said inner bearing portion as the direction of stitching is varied; a presser foot carried by said inner bearing portion; a needle guide; supporting means for said needle guide extending through said inner bearing portion and carried by said needle guide reciprocating means; a freely revoluble non-reciprocating supporting member disposed to revolve about the axis of said needle; a rucher disposed at the end of an arm, said arm being pivotally connected to said revoluble supporting member for movement toward and away from said needle guide; means for rotating said arm and said supporting member as the direction of stitching is varied; and means carried by said needle guide supporting means and disposed to move said rucher toward said needle guide as said needle guide moves downwardly, whereby ruching will be fed beneath said needle in the direction of stitching prior to each stitching operation thereof.
3. A ruching attachment according to claim 2 in which said rucher arm extends through said inner bearing portion.
4. A ruching attachment according to claim 2 wherein said freely revoluble supporting member is a collar.
5. A ruching attachment for a sewing machine in which the direction of stitching may be varied at will throughout a complete circle, said sewing machine comprising a needle and means for vertically reciprocating the same, means for vertically reciprocating a needle guide, means for rotating together said needle, and said needle guide reciprocating means as the direction of stitching is varied, and means for vertically reciprocating a presser foot and imparting thereto a horizontal movement in the direction of stitching, said attachment comprising a hollow ring bearing having inner and outer portions, said outer portion being carried by said presser foot reciprocating and moving means; means for rotating said inner bearing portion as the direction of stitching is varied; a presser foot carried by said inner bearing portion; a needle guide; supporting means for said needle guide extending through said inner bearing portion and carried by said needle guide reciprocating means; a freely revoluble non-reciprocating collar disposed to revolve about the axis of said needle; an arm pivotally connected to said collar and extending through said inner bearing portion for movement toward and away from said needle guide, said arm having camming surface; a rucher disposed at the end of said arm; means for rotating said collar and said arm as the direction of stitching is varied; and means carried by said needle guide supporting means and engaging said camming surface and disposed to move said rucher toward said needle guide as said needle guide moves downwardly, whereby ruching will be fed beneath said needle in the direction of stitching prior to each stitching operation thereof.
6. A ruching attachment according to claim 5, wherein said ring bearing is a ball bearing.
7. A ruching attachment according to claim 5 wherein said arm has an elongated slot therein comprising said camming surface, and wherein said means carried by said needle guide supporting means comprises means movable longitudinally within said slot.
8. In combination, a needle guide, means to mount said needle guide for up'and down reciprocation, a ring bearing disposed concentrically of the needle guide and having inner and outer portions, means to mount said bearing for vertical up and down reciprocation about its axis, means to rotate the needle guide and the inner ring portion in the same direction simultaneously and at the same angular rate of rotation about the common axis of said needle guide and bearing, a presser foot fixed to said inner ring portion, means to move said bearing sideways in all angular positions of the inner ring portion, a rucher, means to rotate the'rucher together with the needle guide about the axis of the needle guide, and means controlled by reciprocation of the needle guide to oscillate the rucher about an axis perpendicular to the reciprocation of the needle guide in all angular positions of said needle guide downwardly, toward the needle guide and upwardly away from said needle guide.
9. In combination, a presser foot, means to mount said presser foot for vertical reciprocation, means to rotate said presser foot about a vertical axis, means controlled by the vertical reciprocation of the presser foot to reciprocate the presser foot horizontally in all angular positions of rotation of said presser foot, a rucher, means to mount the rucher directly in front of the presser foot, means to rotate the rucher about said vertical axis in the same direction and following the rotation of said presser foot, and means to oscillate the rucher in all angular positions of said rucher, downwardly toward the presser foot and upwardly away from said presser foot.
10. A device according to claim 8, said ring bearing and needle guide being coaxial, and said bearing surrounding said needle guide.
11. An attachment for a sewing machine comprising a hollow shaft mounted for up and down reciprocation, a needle guide attached to said hollow shaft, a ring bearing comprising inner and outer ring portions surrounding said hollow shaft and coaxial with respect thereto, a presser foot attached to the inner ring portion, a fixed collar surrounding said hollow shaft, a rucher pivoted to said fixed collar, said rucher being formed with an inclined slot, a pin fixed to the hollow shaft and passing through said slot for oscillating said rucher as said hollow shaft reciprocates, means to rotate said hollow shaft and inner ring portion simultaneously through equal angles, said bearing being movable up and down, and means controlled by the up and down movement of said bearing to cause said bearing and presser foot to move sideways in all angular positions of said inner ring portion.
References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 656,967 Grubman Aug. 28, 1900 751,056 Cooper et al. Feb. 2, 1904 797,308 Nassberg Aug. 15, 1905 1,031,681 Antopol July 9, 1912
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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4438713A (en) * 1982-05-18 1984-03-27 Eltac Co. Ltd. Embroidery stitch formation device for sewing machine
US4513672A (en) * 1982-11-22 1985-04-30 Tokai Industrial Sewing Machine Co., Ltd. Embroidery sewing machine
US4640209A (en) * 1985-04-17 1987-02-03 Douglas J. Glenn Decorative fabrics
US5031554A (en) * 1989-04-26 1991-07-16 Sewing Center Supply Co., Inc. Method of forming a convoluted narrow fabric on a sewing machine
US5203269A (en) * 1989-04-26 1993-04-20 Sewing Center Supply Co., Inc. Textile guide apparatus

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US656967A (en) * 1900-03-10 1900-08-28 Joseph Grubman Attachment for embroidering-machines.
US751056A (en) * 1904-02-02 Sewing-machine
US797308A (en) * 1904-08-29 1905-08-15 Morris P Nassberg Machine for sewing spangles on fabrics.
US1031681A (en) * 1911-01-14 1912-07-09 Israel A Antopol Embroidering-machine.

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US751056A (en) * 1904-02-02 Sewing-machine
US656967A (en) * 1900-03-10 1900-08-28 Joseph Grubman Attachment for embroidering-machines.
US797308A (en) * 1904-08-29 1905-08-15 Morris P Nassberg Machine for sewing spangles on fabrics.
US1031681A (en) * 1911-01-14 1912-07-09 Israel A Antopol Embroidering-machine.

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4438713A (en) * 1982-05-18 1984-03-27 Eltac Co. Ltd. Embroidery stitch formation device for sewing machine
US4513672A (en) * 1982-11-22 1985-04-30 Tokai Industrial Sewing Machine Co., Ltd. Embroidery sewing machine
US4640209A (en) * 1985-04-17 1987-02-03 Douglas J. Glenn Decorative fabrics
US5031554A (en) * 1989-04-26 1991-07-16 Sewing Center Supply Co., Inc. Method of forming a convoluted narrow fabric on a sewing machine
US5203269A (en) * 1989-04-26 1993-04-20 Sewing Center Supply Co., Inc. Textile guide apparatus
US5335613A (en) * 1989-04-26 1994-08-09 Sewing Center Supply Co., Inc. Textile fabric

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