US2685087A - Lady's garment - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 3, 1954 E, w1| s 2,685,087

LADY'S GARMENT Filed Nov. 15, 1951 2 Sheets-Sheet l IN VEN TOR.

E/eqmof MY/fams ATTOEVEYS 3, 1954 E. 'WlLLlAMS 2,685,087

LADYS GARMENT Filed NOV. 15. 1951 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR.

157607101 M/b'ams ATTORNEYS Patented Aug. 3, 1954 UNI TED S TAT ES OF FIZC E LADY S GARMENT Eleanor Williams, Harrison, N; Y., assignor to The B'arbizon Corporation, New York,- N. Y., a corporationof. New York Application November 15, 1951,. Serial No. 256,459

5 Claims. 1

This invention relates to an improvement in women's garments and more particularly to' an improvement in slips or other undergarments or nightgowns.

An object of the invention is to provide a garment made of a comparatively small number of separate pieces or panels and which when assembled produce a garment having form fitting qualities in the bodice and midrifi portion and one whose skirt portion will not ride up on the figure when the wearer is seated. This object is accomplished: by providing a garment made essentially of five pieces or panels. The front pieces comprise a bodice panel, a mid'riff insert panel and a skirt panel while the back comprises a bodice panel and back skirt panel. The front bodice panel is'cut on the biaswhile the front skirt panel and front midrifi panel are both out on the straight of the goods. The grain direction of the midriff panel is preferably at right angles to that in the straight out skirt panels. Its lengthwise grain is parallel with the body circumference of the wearer; The back skirt panel is also cut on the straight of the goods while the back bodice panel is" out on the bias.

An advantage of providing bias cut bodicepanels in conjunction with straight out skirt and midrili panels is that the bias cut in the bodice panels permits them to cling and moldto the bust andwaist lines of a wearer for better fit while the-straight cut skirt and midriif panels will not ride up on the figure while the wearer is seated. There is also greater comfort tothe wearer in the straight out skirt and mi'driff panels and many women prefer this feature because a straight out skirt. and. midriffi will not ride up and will not cling too closely to" the figure when the wearer is either walking or sitting. Also, the straight out midriff panel holds its shape and does not distort in any manner. Thus it acts as a perfect anchor for the bodice and skirt panels. The combination of the bias cut bodice and straight out midrifi sections with the straight cut skirt provides a molding of the garment in the top portion of the garment to the body of the wearer and givesa straight line silhouette to the skirt part of the figure.

In addition, a feature of the construction is: that the seams at the joints between the front and back skirt panels join the front and back panelssligh-tly on the bias. 'Ihesesl-ightly on thebias joints are advantageous particularly whenthe wearer issea-ted: because there is then: a slight give at each side of the garment. This provides additional comfort andfit in the straight out Another advantage of the bias out of the front and back bodice panels combination withthe straight out midriff' and skirt panels is that donning the garment the bodice will give gener-- ously when the wearer is slipping it over her shoulders and bust line: The garment; therefore, may be put on without much straining.

A further object and featureof invention is the provision of novel shape to"- the front midri-lf panel so that it will lend a flattering line' to the wearer's bust and provide a minimizing appearance tothe waist line.

A further feature of the invention is the-provision of a cross-grain relationship between the bias cut front bodice panel and the straight outrnidriff panel. The eiiect' of the cross grain relation'ship is toadd strength to the waistline partof the garment. The grainsmay runparallel on the two pieces last mentioned but the: cross-grain relationshipis preferable.

Other objects and never features orthe invention will become apparent from thefollowing' de scription and the accompanying drawings; wherein"? Figure 1 is a front elevational view ot a garment' embodying invention as it appears ona wearer;

Figure 2-is a rear elevational view over the garment of Figure 1 asit appears on a"- wearer;

Figure 3 is a frontelevation over the pattern of the front-skirtpanel Figure 4 isa similar elevation of the back skirt panel of the garment;

Figure 5" is an elevational view of the" pattern of the front yo'ke or! bodice panel} Figure 6 is a similar View of the rear yoke or bodice and- Figure 7- is a similar view of the pattern of the m id riii' panel.

Referrin to the drawing the garment I 0 com prises 93- front panel i l out on the; straight at the goods or materiali from which the garment is to be manufactured. The grain directionof cut in: the: material is indicated by the arrow A as will be observed from Figure 32- The bottomedge I=2 of the-front skirt pariel is curved and the two side skirt edges [3 and I4 taper toward eaeh' other from: the bottom edge t2 while; the top edge is Scalloped; providing the two concave portions Hi and to adjoining-the center concave portion I 1 at opposite ends thereof. The concave portions 3 have slits I500, |6a and 11a for purposes presently to be described.

A rear or back skirt panel I9 is shown in Figure 4 and as denoted by the arrow B is also out on the straight of the goods or fabric. This back skirt panel It has a curved lower edge 20. The two side edges 2|, 22 taper toward each other from the bottom edge 28, to the concave top edge 23. This top edge has a slit 23a. for purposes to be described.

As seen in Figure the front yoke or bodice panel 24 is cut on the bias (preferably 45 of the goods or fabric from which it is to be made). The bias cut is denoted by the arrow C. This front bodice or yoke panel is scalloped convexly on its lower edge providing the two convex portions 25 and 2t adjoining the center convex portion 27 at opposite ends thereof. The convex portions have slits 25a, 28a and 2'ia for purposes presently to be described. The side edges 28, 2Q taper towards each other from the bottom edge. The top edge 38 has symmetrical zigzag shape as shown.

The back yoke or bodice panel 32 is cut on the bias (preferably 45 of the goods or fabric from which it is made). This bias out is preferably opposite to that of the bias cut of the front yoke or bodice panel and its direction is indicated by the arrow D. This rear bodice or yoke panel as seen in Figure 6 has a substantially straight bottom edge 33 provided with the slits 33a for purposes presently described. The side edges 34 and 35 flare upwardly from the bottom edge 33 and join the symmetrically arranged zigzag upper edge 36.

The midriif section or panel 33 as seen in Figure 7 is cut on the straight of the goods or fabric from which it is made. This cut is denoted by the arrow E. This grain direction of this panel preferably is perpendicular to the direction of the straight cut of the front skirt panel H but in the alternative as indicated by the dotted arrow Ea may run parallel with or in the same direction. This midriff panel has the scalloped lower edge comprising the convex center portion 39 and the adjoining convex portions 44] and ii. The slits 39a and lla are provided in the bottom edge for purposes presently to be described. The side edges A2 and i3 flare upwardly from the bottom edge and join the concavely scalloped upper edge consisting of the center concave portion 4 1 joining respectively the flats i5 and 45. These flats 55 and as in turn join the concave portions ll and d8 which respectively meet the side edges 42 and 43. The center concave portion 24 is provided with the slits Ma for purposes presently to be described.

It is understood that appropriate seam allowances are provided in the required edges of the various portions M, 9, 24, 32 and 38.

The five panels or pieces just described are appropriately joined together by sewing the appropriate meeting edges thereof together. For example, the side edge M of the front panel portion H is sewed to the side edge 22 of the rear skirt panel portion l9 and the side edge E3 of the front skirt panel H is sewed to the side edge 2| of the rear skirt panel I9. Because these side edges taper, there is a relative bias at the respective seams which provides a slight give when the wearer is seated.

The bottom edge 33 of the back yoke or bodice panel 32 is sewed to the upper edge 23 of the back skirt panel i9, and also to the meeting portions of the respective concave sections [5 and it of the upper edge of the front skirt panel H. The lower portions 39, 4E] and M of the midriif panel 33 are sewed respectively to the concave portion ii and the meeting portions of the concave portions l 5 and it on the upper edge of the front panel H. The side edges 42 and 413 of the bodice portion 38 are sewed respectively to the lower parts of the side edges 34 and of the back yoke or bodice panel 32. The side edges 28 and 29 of the front bodice or yoke panel 24 are sewed to the meeting parts of the side edges 34 and 35 of the back yoke or bodice panel 32. The bottom scalloped edge of the front yoke or bodice panel 2% is sewed to the upper edge of the front panel I i. In effecting this sewing the concave lower edge portion 2 of the front bodice or yoke portion 2t it is to be noted is somewhat longer than the corresponding concave section dd of the front bodice panel 38 and similarly the convex sections 255 and 25 are somewhat longer than the concave portions ll and 48 of the midrifi panel 38. This larger dimension is intended, and in sewing the convex portions 25, 28 and 27 to the corresponding concave portions 47, 58 and 2'? the respective sections 25, 26 and 2? are shirred or gathered at 49. This shirring occurs principally at and symmetrically relative to the cusps between the respective convex scallop portions 25, 26 and 27. This shirring effects the formation of bust cup sections in the front yoke panel 2d. The two peaks l5 and 4-6 of this midriff panel are specially designed and arranged so that they are in a direct line with each bust position thereby enhancing the form of the bust. Each high point is centrally locat-ed relative to the alternating shirring 49 on the bodice. Thus there are four lines of alternating shirring for better balance of the bodice panel. Because of these high points 45, 46, the shirring under each bust breaks in two or opposite directions for perfect balance and strain under the bust line. The shirring breaks to the left and to the right maintaining an equal and perfect molding of the bodice.

In all sizes the two points 45 and 46 will be guided so as to be located in the proper position on the midriff panel and located in a direct line below the bust for better form fitting contour. The scalloped formation of the joint between the midriff panel and of the front yoke or bodice panel 28 also facilitates stretching action at the waist line and at the same time permits the garment to mold itself to the waist line of the wearer.

It is to be noted that notwithstanding the fact that both the front skirt panel H and the rear skirt panel !9 are cut on the straight, the seams between the respective side edges l5 and 22 and i3 and 2! are slightly on the bias relative to each other because of the sloping nature of the side walls of the two panels. This is advantageous because it provides the slight give at each side of the garment when the wearer is seated.

The slits iSd, Mia, lid, 23a, 25a, 26a, 21a, 33a, sea, did and l ia permit proper fit between meeting edges which are joined together.

The assembled sections just described thus provide a garment in which the upper bodice portion both at the front and back is cut on the bias and joined to a straight out Inidrifi section and to a skirt portion which both at the front and back is cut on the straight. The bias cut upper panels of the garment tend to mold themselves to the upper part of the wearers body while the straight out skirt panels will hang without clingin The garment also accomplishes all the objects and features set forth at the outset of this specification.

It is tobe understood of course that the peaks of the zigzag upper edges of thefront and back panels are joined by the appropriate shoulder straps 50 to suspend the garment from the wearers shoulders.

While a specific embodiment of the invention has been described, variations in structural detail within the scope of the claims are possible and are contemplated. There is no intention, therefore; of limitation to the exact details shown and described.

What is claimed is:

1'. A ladys garment of five fabric panels combined together to form the garment comprising a front skirt panel out on the straight and hav-- ing a' eoncavely scalloped upper edge, a curved bottom edge and straight sid edges, the latter tapering from the outermost ends of the bottom edge toward the outermost ends of the upper edge, a midrii f panel cut on the straight and having a concavely scalloped upper edge, a convexly scallopedbottom edge and straight side edges tapering from the outermost ends of the last-named bottom edge toward the outermost ends of the last-named upper edge, a front bodice panel cut on the bias and having a zig-zag shaped upper edge, a conv-exly scalloped bottom edge and straight side edges tapering from the outermost ends of the last-named bottom edge toward the outermost ends of the zig-zag shaped upper edge, a rear skirt panel out on the straight and having a concavely curved upper edge, a convexly' curved bottom edge, and straight side edges tapering from the outermost ends of the lastnamed bottom edge to the outermost ends of the last-named upper edge, and a rear bodice panel cut on the bias and having a Zig-zag shaped upper edge, a substantially straight bottom edge and straight side edges flaring from the outermost ends of said last-named bottom edge towards the outermost ends of said lastnamed zig-zag shaped upper edge, said five-panels being joined together along meeting side edges of said front and rear skirt panels, along the meeting upper edge of said front skirt panel. and lower edge of said midriff panel and the lower' outsideedge portions of said rear bodice panel, along the meeting upper edge of said rear skirt panel and the lOWer middle edge portion of said rear bodice panel, along the meeting upper edge of said midriff panel and the lower edge of said front bodice panel, along the meeting side edges of a portion of said rear bodice panel and said midriif panel and along the meeting side edges of another portion of said rear bodice panel and said front bodice panel to form a garment having a bias cut bodice and a straight out midriif and skirt.

2, A ladysgarment of five fabric panels combined together to form the garment comprising a front skirt panel out on the straight and having a concavely scalloped upper edge, a curved bottom edge and straight side edges, the latter tapering from the outermost ends of the bottom edge toward the outermost ends of the upper edge, a midriif panel cut on the straight and having a grain direction that is perpendicular to that of the straight out of said front skirt panel and having a concavely scalloped upper edge, a convexly scalloped bottom edge and straight side edges tapering from the outermost ends of the last-named bottom edge toward the outermost ends of the last-named upper edge, a front bodice panel cut on the bias and having a zig-zag shaped upper edge, a'convexl'y scalloped bottom edge and straight side edges tapering fromthe outermost ends of the last-named bottom edge towardthe outermost ends of the zig-zag shaped upper edge; a rear' skirt panel c'ut'on the straight and having a concavel ycurved upper edge, a convexly curved bottom edge, and straight side edges tapering from the outermost ends of' the last-named bottom edge to the outermost ends of the last-named upper edge, and a rear bodice panel out on the bias and having a zig-zag shaped upper edge, a substantiall straight bottom edge and straight side edges flaring from the outermost ends of said last-namedbottom edge towards the outermost ends of said last-named zig-za'g shapedupper edge; said five panel's being joined together along meeting side edges of said front and rear skirt panels, along the meeting upper edge of said front skirt panel and lower edge of said midriff panel and the lower outside edge portions ofsaidrear bodice panel, along the meeting upper edge ofsaid rear skirt panel and the lower middle edge portion of said rear bodice panel, alongthe meeting upper edge of said midriff' panel and the lower edge of said front bodice'panel, along the meeting side edges of a portion of said rear bodice panel and said midriff panel and along the meeting side edges of another portion of said rear bodice panel and said front bodice panel to form a garment having a bias cut bodice and a straight out midriifand skirt.

3'. A ladys garment of live fabric panels combined together to form the garment comprisinga front skirt panel cut on the straight and having a concavely scalloped upper edge, a curved bottom edge and straight side edges, the latter tapering from the outermost ends of the bottom edge toward the outermost ends of the upper edge, a mid'riff panel cut onthe straight and having a cross grain direction that is substantially'parall'el to that of said front skirt panel and having a conoavely scalloped upper edge, a convexl'y scalloped bottom edge and straight" side edges taperin from the outermost ends of the last-named bottom edge toward the outermost ends of the last-named upper edge, a frontbodi'ce panel cut on the bias and having a zig-zag shaped upper edge, a convexly scalloped bottom edge and straight side edges tapering from the outermost ends of the last-named bottom edge toward the outermost ends of the zig-zag shaped upper edge, a rear skirt panel cut on the straight and having a conoav-ely curved upper edge, a convexl'y curved bottom edge, and straight side edges tapering from the outermost ends of the last-named bottom edge to the outermost ends of the last-named'upper edge, and a rear bodice panel cut on thebias and having a zig-zag shapedupper edge; a substantially straight bottom edgeand straight side edges flaring from the" outer"- most ends of said last-named bottom edge towards the outermost ends of said lastnamed zig-zag. shaped. upper edge, said fivepanels being joined together along meeting side edges of said front and rear skirt, panels, along th meeting upper edge of said front skirt panel and lower edge of said midriff panel and the lower outside edge portions of said rear bodice panel, along the meeting upper edge of said rear skirt panel and the lower middle edge portion of said rear bodice panel, along the meeting upper edge of said midriff panel and the lower edge of said front bodice panel, along the meeting side edges of a portion of said rear bodice panel and said midriff panel and along the meeting side edges of another portion of said rear bodice panel and said front bodice panel to form a garment having a bias cut bodice and a straight out midriff and skirt.

4. A ladys garment of five fabric panels combined together to form the garment comprising a front skirt panel cut on the straight and hav ing a concavely scalloped upper edge, a curved bottom edge and straight side edges, the latter tapering from the outermost ends of the bottom edge toward the outermost ends of the upper edge, a midriff panel cut on the straight and having a concavely scalloped upper edge, a convexly scalloped bottom edge and. straight side edges tapering from the outermost ends of the last-named bottom edge toward the outermost ends of the last-named upper edge, a front bodice panel cut on the bias and having a zig-zag shaped upper edge, a convexly scalloped bottom edge having three convex scallops arranged side by side and in which the scalloped upper edge of the midrifi panel meeting therewith has three concave scallops arranged side by side for junction with respective of said three convex scallops, the dimensions of said convex scallop-s being larger than those of said concave scallop and said convex scallops being shirred adjacent cusps between them so that their junction with the said concave scallops provide perfectly balanced bust cups and said front bodice panel, said front bodice panel having straight side edges tapering from the outermost ends of the said convex scalloped bottom edge toward the outermost ends of the zig-zag shaped upper edge, a rear skirt panel cut on the straight and having a concavely curved upper edge, a convexly curved bottom edge, and straight side edges tapering from the outermost ends of the last-named bottom edge to the outermost ends of the last-named upper edge, and a rear bodice panel cut on the bias and having a zig-zag shaped upper edge, a substantially straight bottom edge and straight side edges flaring from the outermost ends of said last-named bottom edge towards the outermost ends of said last-named zig-za shaped upper edge, said five panels being joined together along meeting side edges of said front and rear shirt panels, along the meeting upper edge of said front skirt panel and lower edge of said midriff pane]. and the lower outside edge portions of said rear bodice panel, along the meeting upper edge of said rear skirt panel and the lower middle edge portion of said rear bodice panel, along the meeting upper edge of said midriif panel and the lower edge of said front bodice panel, along the meeting side edges of a portion of said. rear bodice panel and said midrifl panel and along the meeting side edges of another portion of said rear bodice panel and said front bodice panel to form a garment having a bias out bodice and a straight out midrifi and skirt.

5. A ladys garment of five fabric panels combined together to form the garment comprising a front skirt panel cut on the straight and having a concavely scalloped upper edge, a curved bottom edge and straight side edges, the latter tapering from the outermost ends of the bottom edge toward the outermost ends of the upper edge, a midrifi panel cut on the straight and having a concavely scalloped upper edge, a convexly scalloped bottom edge and straight side edges tapering from the outermost ends of the last-named bottom edge toward the outermost ends of the last-named upper edge, a front bodice panel cut on the bias and having a zig-zag shaped upper edge, a convexly scalloped bottom edge having three convex scallops arranged side by side and in which the scalloped upper edge of the midriii panel meeting therewith has three concave Scallops arranged side by side for junction with respective of said three convex scallops, the dimensions of said convex scallops being larger than those of said concave scallop and said convex scallops being shirred adjacent cusps between them positioned to lie in direct line with respective busts of a wearer and in which said shirring is symmetrically disposed to the right and left of said cusps, thereby providing a garment in which the bust cups have even strain distribution at each side of the cusps so that uniform bust support occurs, said front bodice panel having straight side edges tapering from the outermost ends of the said convex scalloped bottom edge toward the outermost ends of the zig-zag shaped upper edge, a rear skirt panel cut on the straight and having a concavely curved upper edge, a convex curved bottom edge, and straight side edges tapering from the outermost ends of the last-named bottom edge to the outermost ends of the last-named upper edge, and a rear bodice panel out on the bias and having a zig-zag shaped upper edge, a substantially straight bottom edge and straight side edges flaring from the outermost ends of said last-named bottom edge towards the outermost ends of said last-named zig-zag shaped upper edge, said five panels being joined together along meeting side edges of said front and rear skirt panels, along the meeting upper edge of said front skirt panel and lower edge of said midriff panel and the lower outside edge portions of said rear bodice panel, along the meeting upper edge of said rear skirt panel and the lower middle edge portion of said rear bodice panel, along the meeting upper edge of said midriff panel and the lower edge of said front bodice panel, along the meeting side edges of a portion of said rear bodice panel and said midriif panel and along the meeting side edges of another portion of said rear bodice panel and said front bodice panel to form a garment having a bias cut bodice and a straight cut midrifi' and skirt.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,059,865 Hennessy Nov. 3, 1936 2,245,141 Burger June 10, 1941 2,412,530 Novy Dec. 10, 1945 2,464,025 Chandler Mar. 8, 1950 2,591,799 Friedman Apr. 8, 1952

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