US2550647A - Singer - Google Patents

Description

April 24, 1951 J. SINGER 2,550,647

BELT SUPPORT STRUCTURE AND METHOD OF FORMING SAME Filed Feb. 10, 1949 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 ATTOR N EY April 24, 1951 .1. SINGER 4 BELT SUPPORT STRUCTURE AND METHOD OF FORMING SAME 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Feb 10, 1949 ATTO R N EV April 24, 1951 J. SINGER Filed Feb. 10, 1949 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 I Z5. 5 I "Z5- f E I JZ F 7 A3 7 I ,A ill/17C ATTO R N EY Patented Apr. 24, 1951 BELT sUProR'r STRUCTURE AND METHOD OF FORMING SAME Joseph Singer, Hart, Mich. Application February 10, 1949, Serial No. 75,671 Y I 12 Claims.

This invention relates to garments such as trou ers, slacks shorts, skirts and other garments having detachable belts and particularly to garments having belt receiving channels of the type generally termed blind belt' straps as being* substantially indistinguishable visually from the remainder of the garment, the belt straps in the present instance being associated with and formed from the upper. parts of pleats made in the upper part of the garment to extend downwardly from the waist portion.

More particularly the invention relates to a continuation-in-part of my prior application for patent on Garments filed June 26, 1947, and bear ing the Serial Number 757.094, now abandoned. One principal purpose of this invention is to provide a novel construction of garment having a novel construction of combinedblind belt straps and pleats at the waist portion of trousers.

Another object of the invention is to provide a novel trousers construction wherein the garment is finished at the waist by means obviating the necessity of using a waist band while, at the same time, providing the novel arrangement of blind belt strap and pleat.

Until the development of my prior invention above referred to, difiiculty was found in combining blind belt straps with pleated garments and a further object of the invention is to provide a novel and improved method of cutting, forming and stitching the garment material whereby areas detached from the body of the garment at the side edges of pleats are formed, such areas constituting blind belt straps.

Still another object of the invention is to produce'such an arrangement of pleats and blind belt straps withoutweakening the construction of the garment.

Further, an object of the invention .is to pro.- vide an improved construction wherein blind belt straps are formed of material in part integral with that of the remainder of the garment so that such belt straps will not work loose from wear or stress on the stitching used in forming such straps.

With the above and other objects in view, the invention consists in general of certain novel details of construction, combinations of parts and the folding and stitching thereof, the invention also consisting in the method of slitting, folding and stitching the parts, the construction 2 of reference indicate like parts inthe several views, and:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view from the front of'a pair of trousers and showing a pair of pleats and associated blind belt straps.

Fig. 2 is a perspective view from the rear of a pair of trousers showing two rear pleats and the blind belt straps associated therewith.

Fig. 3 is an enlarged detail section on the line 33 of Fig. 1. Fig. 4 is an enlarged detail section on the line 44 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 5 is a detail elevation showing the slitting of the material of afront panel in the first step of forming the arrangement for producing the pleats and blind belt straps, thebroken lines indicating the lines on which the material adjacent the slits is folded.

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary perspective view' from the front of the garment with the material'adjacent the slits folded.

Fig. '7 is a perspective view from the inside of the garment, the view showing the parts disclosed in Fig. 6.

' Fig. 8 is an enlarged section on the line 8-8 of Fig. 7. V i

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. '1 but showing the back cover in place and stitched. Fig. 10' is a view of a rear panel showingthe slitting forming the first step "in the production of the strap or loop, broken lines indicatingthe lines on which material adjacent the slits is and method being hereinafter fully described, il- 7 folded. I

Fig. 11 is a view from inside the garment showing the portions adjacent the slits drawn to} gether and sewed. Fig. 12 is a view similar to Fig. 9 but disclos ing the arrangement at a rear panel of a garment. Fig. 13 is a section on the line I 3-! of Fig. 12, Fig. 14 is a vertical section showing the manner of securing the back pocket of a garment by stitching and disclosing the relation of the pocket to the'blind belt strap. j Fig. 15 is an elevation of the inside of the upper part of a portion of a garment with the apron and stiffening strip used in the invention in placei Fig. 16 isan enlarged view ofpart of Fig.' 15 with apron folded up to better disclose the stif fening strip. Fig. 17 is a greatly enlarged fragmentary sec tion of the device and taken on the line l'lll ofFig.15. V Fig. 18 is an enlarged section on the line 'I 8l 8 of Fig. 15.

Fig. 19 is a rear elevation of a portion of a pair of trousers embodying the present invention and showing a belt, blind belt strap and a pocket opening.

Fig. 20 is an elevation from the inside of the trousers showing the parts behind those shown in Fig. 19.

Fig. 21 is an interior perspective view of a portion of a pair of trousers showing formation of a pleat and t e related parts.

Fig. 22 is an enlarged section on the line 2222 of Fig. 21. v

Fig. 23 is an enlarged section on the line 23-4-3- of Fig. 21.

Referring now to the arrangement shown. the front of a pair of trousers and asshown in Fig. 1 and Figs. 3 to 9 inclusive, the waist line is shown at l and extending down. from thewaist line is a right front panel I I and a left front panel l2. v

In the first step in forming a blind belt loop at theiront; of the; trousers the material is slit vertically downward from its upper edge 1-3 to provide the two slits l4; and I5. These slits are parallel, the slit- IA being at the hip side of the panel and the slit t5 being on the fly l6 side of the, panel. The-slits l4 and [5 are of preferably equal length and from the lower ends of these slits extend transverse slits H and It, the slit ll bein s orter than the slit i8. Intermediate the lengths of the slits I4 and I5 preferably short slits 1e ex endb th d rections: fr m e h Slit l4 and IS, the purpose of providing these slits It bein t av wrinkl n wh n. the par a j thQsli-ts I4 and I5 are, respectively folded inwardly on lines. and-20ato; provide substantially rectangular first. flaps: 2 I: and 2 la. Also the material creased or f lded o lines 2 and '2 a paral l t the slits M and l 5 respectively. These-creases resneeti eln tel-mth We pleat: dges of a pleated portion of; the garment. Then the; creases or fold edges formed at 22 and 22a are brought respectively into contact with the flaps; 2+ and 211 alon the. fold; lines; 20: and- Zlla. These creases and the contacting portions at Zll and 20a are'then secured mlwsiti'onybyblind'stitchings 25 which extend from the garment edge to points 25a at which the upper edges of the belt 100. 26 begin, these side edges being from the body of the-garment to their lower ends.- at ZBb. It willbe, seen that the portions of the-garment between the slits and told lines, when arranged .asabove described leaves; seconds flaps 2.4 at: the upper edges of the pleat folds, each of said second flaps 24 cover-- ing the siialle. definedbysaid vertical and transversaslits. Eachof the-first flaps 2-land; 2111 are formed from the material which occupied the space defined by" said slitsbeiore cutting. This sewing of the folds as. described produces a gathering of the; material at the waist and assists in tormi-ng; the pleatxon each front panel. The material betweentheslits. l4.- andi5 has, order to, prevent wear at: theedges oi the loop, aline of stitching 21 extending; from the edge 13 down below the lower: end. of the loop 26, the stitching 21. beingdoubledg back as at. 28. It will now be seen from Fig. 1- that; each of the belt loops forms part. of the upper end; of; a front double pleat 29 and: each loop; is made from the material of the garment without severance therefrom.-

. It will: also be plain that the side.- edges of the blind bel-t. lOQQs are spaced circu'mferent'rally of the garment and, before insertion of a belt: are dis uised s y a flush. with. the adja ent ody portions of such garment.

.1 order o; fiectuell prevent: the end; ot 7.5

belt being inserted in a belt loop from passing through the gap behind the loop to feed between the trousers and underwear, there is provided a cover strip 39 which is located within the trousers to lie behind the gap. Stitching 3| at the side edges of the member 30 holds said member securely in place and also passes through the fold portions at the sides of the loops 26.

One form of the invention for use on the back of trousers is shown in Fig. 2 and Figs. 10 to 14, inclusive. As shown in Fig. 10 vertical slits 32 extend downwardly from the edge l3 and at each 5166 Qt the slits 32- preferably short slits or notches 33' extend into the material, such short slits being for the purpose of avoiding bunching up of the flaps when folded on the fold lines 34. It will be seen that. the fold lines 34 preferably converge downwardly so that, by folding on these lines, the edges of the flaps 35 formed by the slits 32 will also converge downwardly upon the folded edges sfibeing. brought. together. The folded edges are. blind stitched together at their upper parts as at 31 and are left free from each other for sufficient distance below the blind stitching to form. the entries of the belt strap 38 at each side of the rear of the trousers. Extending down from the .edge 13 are stitch 1ines39 which lie close to. the. strap edges and terminate in. upwardly extending fold lines. The stitch lines. 39 serve to hold. the folded, edges. of. the belt. strap from fraying and separating-- As. in. the front of the garmentthe drawing together of the folded edges causes gathering of the. material as though gores were. cut. in the material and. the edges of the sores-drawn together, the effect being to provide fullness of material, said material being then stitched, to form, pleats. 4.1 below the belt loop. or belt strap portions. A rear cover strip 42 is securedto theinner face of the. garment by stitching tfilocated on the flap 35. opposed to that flap 35 hrough whiehthe stitching 39 is. located. This cover strip closes. the gap beneath the belt strap as at the trout of. the. trousers and for the same purpose the. stitching, extending. through the cover strips, flaps 35' and main parts of the. ma-

terial.-.

Spaced. below the belt straps 38 the. material is slit. along. a. line 44 transversely and turned under to form hems 4.4- (Fig. 14),. Each pocket 45 of theusual bag like form has, its upper edges provided with bindings-46 secured by stitching 4.1-. The bindings 46 project between, the. hems 44' and. are there.- secured by the stitching. 48.

In Figs... 15. to 18. inclusive s. shown the. manner of finishing the garmentat the. waist line, so. that he sual waist band. at the. top of, the trousers eliminated. In this arrangement the. upper edge of the garment is folded inwardly and downwardly as. at 49. behind. the body 51 of the fabric... To. this. folded. edge below the. top thereof there is secured the. folded upper edge. 5| of an apron 5.2, the stitching being shown at 53.. A stifiening. strip. 54 ofbuckramhair cloth, or other suitable materialhas. its upper edgev projecting into the fold 49 and there held by the stitching 53. As shown in Fig. 118. the upper edge of the strip. l54= extends above the upper edge of the apron 52 and seats against the. inside of the bandproducing the edge 49, this edge being held between the apron and the stiffener strip and thus. holding the upper edge from projecting into sight. above the top of the fold- 49a The lower edge of the apron may be, leftfreeor may be doubled upwardly as at 55 andsecured to the stiftenerstri by Stitching 5.6..

and the cover strips.

If desired, the upper edge of the trousers may be finished by a waist band '5'! held by stitching 58 as shown best in Fig. 3.

The belt, B, in its relation to the invention, is

shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3.

Figs. 19 and 20 a modification of the hip pocket arrangement is shown. Here the pocket edges 46 are shown as at the lower ends of the contacting fold edges 34, the pocket itself being shown at 45'. Otherwise this modification is like that shown in Figs. to 14.

In Figs. 21 to 23 there is shown the manner in which the pleating is obtained. Here the edges of the double edged pleat 59 are formed by laterally spaced knife pleats 60, the fold edge 6! of one of which contacts the fold edge 62 formed by the flaps 2|.

The production of trousers or other garments having concealed belt entries in the back waist portion is claimed in copending application Serial No. 216,933, filed March 22, 1951.

7 What is claimed as new, is:

1. A pair of trousers provided with concealed belt loops and having a vertical pleat on one side of the front center, said pleat extending across the waist region of the trousers, said trousers having a first flap folded in a direction opposite to the fold of the pleat and along an outer fold edge extending upwardly at the waist region from a transverse slit, said first fiap having a, vertioally extending inner edge which has been slit from the front wall of the trousers, the lower end of said edge defining the lower extremity of the vertical slit, a folded second fiap having an outer edge, said second flap extending across the waist region of the front wall of the trousers and being folded under the pleat of the trousers, said outer edges of the flaps being secured at the top of the trousers, the fold edges of the flaps being disposed adjacent one another to form one concealed entry of a belt loop, said second flap covering the space defined by said vertical and transverse slits, the first flap having been formed from the material which occupied said space.

2. A pair of trousers provided with concealed belt loops and having a vertical pleat on one side of the front center, said pleat extending across the waist region of the trousers, said trousers having a first flap folded in a direction opposite to the fold of the pleat and along an outer fold edge extending upwardly at the waist region from a transverse slit, said first flap having a vertically extending inner edge which has been slit from the front wall of the trousers, the lower 1 end' of said edge defining the lower extremity of the vertical slit, a folded second flap having an outer edge, said second flap extending across the waist region of the front wall of the trousers and being folded under the pleat of the trousers, said outer edges of the flaps being secured at the top of the trousers, the fold edges of the flaps being disposed adjacent one another to form one concealed entry of a belt loop, said second fiap covering the space defined by said vertical and trans- .verse slits, the first flap having been formed from the material which occupied said space, said entry having a point of separation from the lower portion of each pleat and downwardly extending stitches at the edge of the pleat below the point of separation.

" 3. A front trouser panel having a waist region, avertical pleat on one side of the front center, said pleat extending across the said waist region, r a vertically extending slit at the waist region and under the pleat, a transverse slit at the lower end 'of the vertical slit and under the pleat, and a side flap defined by said slits and folded inwardly from the intersection of said slits, said pleat concealing the space from which said inwardly folded side flap is taken.

4. A front trouser panel having a waist region, a. vertical pleat on one side of the front center, said pleat extending across said region, a vertically. extending slit at the waist region and under the pleat, and a transverse slit at the lower end of the vertical slit and under the pleat, said panel having inwardly folded flaps, one thereof being defined by said slits and folded inwardly from the intersection of said slits, the spacefrom which the flap defined by said slits is taken being concealed by. the pleat.

5. The method of forming a concealed belt loop Imember in an article of apparel provided with a vertical pleat on one side of the front center of the article,'comprising slitting the material of the article downwardly from the waist region of the article and transversely thereto to form a flap portion extending upwardly from the transverse slit, folding the flap portion defined by the vertical and transverse slits inwardly from the intersection of said slits on a fold edge extending up- "wardly from the end of the transverse slit towards the waist edge, concealing by said pleat the space left when said'flap portion is turned inwardly, and securing the waist edge portion of the pleat member at its top.

6.. The method of forming a concealed belt loop member on one side of the front center of an article of apparel provided with a vertical pleat having a pleat line, comprising slitting the material of the article downwardly from the waist edge and transversely thereto to form a first flap portion extending upwardly from the transverse slit, folding the flap portion defined by the vertical and transverse slits inwardly from the intersection of said slits and backwardly on the material of the article on a fold edge extending upwardly from the end of the transverse slit and towards the waist edge of the article, forming at the waist region a second flap portion folded back from the front of the article along said pleat line and disposed under the pleat of the article and covering the space from which said first flap portion is taken, and securing said flap portion and edge portion at the top of the article of apparel and adjacent one another to provide a concealed loop entry.

7. A front trouser panel having a waist region, a vertical pleat having a pleat line, said pleat extending across said region, a vertically extending slit at the waist region and under the pleat and a transverse slit at the lower end of the vertical slit and under the pleat, said panel having inwardly folded flaps, one of said flaps being inwardly folded along said pleat line and the other of said flaps being folded inwardly from the intersection of said slits along an outer fold edge extending upwardly at the waist region from said transverse slit, said latter flap being formed from the material defined by said slits, the space from which the flap defined by said slits is taken being concealed by the pleat.

8. In a'garment having double edged pleats, belt-receiving channels, one portion of the material defining each belt-receiving channel being .iormed integrally and continuously with each of said pleats, the latter being provided with side edges, said channel member having inwardly fielded side flaps provided with side edges, each of said side flaps being cut from a portion of the garment material, the space from which one of 'the 'i-nwardly folded side flaps is taken being concealed by an upper portion of one of the pleats, th'e top waist edges of the pleats being secured at the top, the upper side edges of each pleat being adjacent the circumferentially spaced side edges .of each of the belt-receiving channel members and disguising the emergent circumferentially spaced side edges or said channel members.

9. In a garment having double edged pleats,

belt-receiving channels, one portion of the matedefining each belt-receiving channel being formed integrally and continuously with each of said pleats, the latter being provided with side edges, said channel member having inwardly folded side fians provided with side edges, each at said side flaps being cut from a portion of the garment material, the space from which one of .thexinwardly folded side flaps is taken being concealed by an upper portion of one of the pleats, the top waist edges of the pleats being secured at the top, the upper side edges of each pleat being adjacent the circumferentially spaced side edges of. each of the belt-receiving channel members and disguising the emergent circumierentially spaced side edges of said channel members, and a cover strip within the garment and spanning the space between the circumferentially spaced side edges of each channel. member.

l0. In a garment having double edged pleats, belt-receiving channels, one portion of the material defining each belt-receiving channel being formed integrally and continuously with each of said pleats, the latter being provided with side edges, said channel member having inwardly folded side flaps provided with side edges, each of. said side flaps being cut from a portion of the garment material, the space from which one of the inwardly folded side flaps is taken being concealed by an upper portion of one of the pleats, the top waist edges of the pleats being secured. at the top; the upper side edges of each pleat: being adjacent the circumferentially spaced side edges of each of the belt-receiving channel members and disguising the emergent circumierentially spaced side edges of said channel members, said edges being sewed together at their upperparts and free laterally from the body of the material below the sewed parts for a predetermined distance.

I1. A pair of trousers provided with concealed belt loops and having a vertical pleat on one side of the front center body material, said pleat extending across the waist region of the trousers, said: trousers having a first flap folded in a direction opposite: to the fold of the pleat and along an outer fold edge extending upwardly at the waist region from a transverse slit, said first flap having a vertically extending inner edge which has been slit from the front wall of the trousers, the lower end of said edge defining the lower extremity of the vertical slit, a folded second flap having an outer edge, said second flap extending across the Waist region of the frontwall of the trousers and being folded under the pleat of the trousers, said outer fold edges of the flaps having been brought together to form contacting fold edges, the latter edges being sewed together at their upper parts and free laterally from the body of the material below the sewed parts for a predetermined distance to form the concealed entry of a beltr loop, said second flap covering the space defined by said vertical and transverse slits, the first fiap having been formed from the material which occupied said space, said garment having a similarly iormed concealed belt entry circumferentially spaced from and in circumferential alinement with said first concealed entry and providing therewith a belt loop, and a cover strip within the garment at the belt loop and spanning the belt loop.

12.. A. pair of trousers provided with concealed belt loops and having a vertical pleat on one side of the iront center body material, saidpleat extending across the waist region of the trousers, said trousers having a first flap folded in a direction opposite to the fold of the pleat and. along an outer foldedge extending upwardly at the waist region from a transverse slit, said first fiaphaving. a vertically extending inner edge which has been slit from the front wall of the trousers, the lower end of said edge defining the lower extremity of the vertical slit, a folded second flap having an outer edge, said second flap extending across the Waist region of the front wall of the trousers and being folded under the pleat of the trousers, said outer fol-d edges of the flaps having been brought together to form contacting fold edges, the latter edges being sewed together at their upper parts and free laterally from the body of the material below the sewed parts for a predetermined distance to form the concealed entry of a belt'loop, said second fiap covering, the space defined by said vertical and transverse slits, the first fiap having been formed from the material which occupied said space, said garment having a similarly formed concealed belt entry circumferentially spaced from and in circumferential alinement with said first concealed entry and providing therewith a belt loop, a cover strip within the garment at the belt loop and. spanning thebelt loop, the garment having its upper edge turned inwardly'and downwardly to form a circumferentially extending fiap, an apron depending from said last flap and having its upper edge stitched thereto, and a stiffener strip stitched to the apron and having its upper edge extending above said apron between said last mentioned flap and the body of the garment material.

JOSEPH SINGER.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Co-., Inc. 1947, p. 54.

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