US2475760A - Apparatus for making and attaching shirrings - Google Patents

Description

July 12, 1949. c. SEAMAN 2,475,750

I APPARATUS FOR MAKING AND ATTACHING SHIRRINGS Filed July 21, 1947 5 she ts-sheet 1 INVENTOR. CHARL 55 554 MA N A TTO/ZNE )1 July 12, 1949. c. SEAMAN 3 APPARATUS FOR MAKING AND ATTACHING SHIRRINGS I Filed July 21, 1947 JNVEN TOR. CH/I a 55 55A MAN 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 July 12, 1949. Y c. SEAMAN 2,4753% APPARATUS FOR MAKING AND A'ITACHING SHIRRI NGS Filed July 21, 1947 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 IN VEN TOR. CHA E4. E5 55mm Jufiy 12, 1943a c. SEAMAN 2, ,7

APPARATUS FOR MAKING AND ATTACHING SHIRRINGS Filed July 21, 1947 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 3 JNVENTOR.

I CHARL E5 554 MAN ATTORNEY July 12, 1949. c. SEAMAN APPARATUS FOR MAKING AND ATTACHING SHIRRINGS Filed July 21, 1947 IN VEN TOR. Owns: 55 4444 ATTORNEY Patented July 12, 1949 UNITED STATS APPARATUS FGR MAKING AND ATTACHING SHIRRIN GS 3 Claims.

This invention relates to an apparatus for making trimming. More particularly, it relates to a sewing machine or attachment for making and attaching shirring to collars and the like.

An object of this invention is to provide a de vice for making and attaching the trimming in a single operation.

Another object of this invention is to provide an apparatus for attaching shirring to a collar having two plies by means of a single row of stitches and trimmin the edge portion of the stitched material so that the edge of the stitched material is in close proximity to the row of stitches,

An additional object of this invention is t provide a sewing machine attachment for making, and attaching shirring to collars and the like which can be attached to a standard sewing ma chine without mutilating, destroying or otherwise modifying a standard sewing machine.

Other and additional objects will become apparent hereinafter.

The objects of the invention are accomplished, in general, by delivering a shirring material between upper and lower layers of a base material to a presser foot and, after said materials have been stitched, but before the stitched material leaves the machine, cutting away the edge portion of the stitched material extending beyond the row of stitches so that when the stitched material is reversed or turned, the edge of the material extending between the top and bottom plies will be in close proximity to the concealed row of stitches.

The shirring material, though simultaneously fed with the top and bottom base materials, is fed at a faster rate so that it is caused to gather or pucker in folds or pleats at the point of stitching. The shirring is effected by a shirring blade which reciprocates ahead of the needle path and which engages the shirring material to form folds or pleats therein. The shirring blade is reciprocated by means driven from the pulley end of the machine.

The edge portion of the stitched material adjacent the heel of the presser foot passes between a cutting mechanism which longitudinally severs such edge portion to provide an edge in close proximity to the line of stitches. The cutting mechanism comprises an adjustable stationary knife over which the edge portion passes and a reciprocating knife cooperating with the station- The reciprocating knife is actuated pulley end of the maary knife. by means driven from the chine.

The shirring blade and the cutting mechanism, as well as the actuating means therefor, are mounted on a bracket to constitute a sewing machine'attachment which can be readily secured and quickly removed from a standard sewing machine.

Means are also provided to permit the delivery of the top and bottom layers of the base material with the shirring material therebetween into the zone of action of the vertically reciprocating needle of the sewing machine.

The invention will be more clearly understood by reference to the following detailed description when taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a plan view of the attachment in position on a sewing machine head, the sewing machine head being broken away for clarity;

Figure 2 is an elevation of the needle end of the machine shown in Figure 1, with the head broken away;

Figure 3 is a front elevation of the attachment with part of the machine head and the driving means omitted;

Figure 4 is a section taken on the line 4-4 of Figure 3;

Figure 5 is a section taken on the line 55 of Figure 2;

Figure 6 is an end view of the pulley end of the machine;

Figure 7 is a perspective view showing the arrangement of the knives relative to the presser foot;

Figure Sis a detail of the feed plate;

Figure 9 is a detail of the guide for the shirring material;

Figure 10 is a section of the material as it leaves the machine;

Figure 11 is a plan view of a portion of a collar showing the trimming produced by this invention; and

Figure 12 is a section taken on the line i2-i2 of Figure 11,

Referring nowto the drawings, wherein like reference numerals designate like parts, the reference numeral 2 designates the base of a standard sewing machine head having an overhanging arm 4. On one end (see Figures 2 and 3), the arm 4 is secured to a needle head 6 which carries a needle bar 8 in which a needle I is secured in the usual manner. The head 6 also carries a presser foot bar I2 on which there is removably secured a presser foot I4, hereinafter more fully explained, by means of the screw IS. A manually operated lever I8 is provided to elevate the presser foot bar I'2 when desired, as, for example, to provide clearance for inserting or removing the work. The needle bar 8 is driven in the usual manner by a drive shaft 20, which is actuated by a belt pulley 22 on the other end of the arm 4 and driven in the usual manner. The machine is also provided with the usual hand wheel 24. The presser foot I4 cooperates with the usual type of feed dogs 26, which are actuated in the known manner. The feed dogs 26 are positioned in slots in a plate 32 which is also provided with the usual needle hole.

The sewing machine head and appurtenant parts (except the details of construction of the presser foot, hereafter more fully described) just described are of standard construction and include the usual stitching mechanism. However, only so much of the sewing machine head has been described as is necessary to an understanding of the present invention.

In accordance with this invention, the bottom layer of the base material B is fed beneath a guide plate carried by a base plate- 42 which is secured to the base of the machine by screws 44 passing through slots 46 to permit transverse adjustment thereof. The guide plate 40, provided with a slot 48 to permit clearance of the needle I0, is positioned in advance of and adjacent the path of the needle ID. The shirring material S is fed over the top of the guide plate 40, and a guide wire secured to the guide plate 40 guides the shirring material S over the top of the guide plate 40.

The shirring material S is delivered to the guide 50 by a guidewhich consists of laterally telescoping bent members 54 and 56. The member 54 is carried on an arm 58 which is adjustably (slidably) mounted in a block carried on the base plate 42. A set screw 62 secures the arm 58 in adjusted position in the block 60. The guide member 56 is carried on an arm 64 which is also adjustably (slidably) mounted in the block 60. A set screw 66 secures the arm 64 in position in the block. By adjustment of the arms 58 and 64 in the block 60, the Width of the shirring guide can be increased or decreased as desired in accordance with the width of the shirring material S.

The shirring material S, as it leaves its guide, cooperates with the guide Wire 50 and passes over the guide plate 40. A bent wire 60 is secured to the shirring guide to permit feeding of the shirring material into the guide from a suitable source of supply.

The top layer of base material T is fed to the presser foot I4 above the shirring material S and is guided by means of a lip 10 and a guide member 12 attached to the presser foot I4 (see Figure '1) and forming a slot 14 therebetween through which the edge of the material T passes.

Engaging the shirring material S on the guide plate 40 is a shirring blade 80 which is provided with serrations 82 at its end and is adapted to rest upon the shirring material S on the feed plate 40 and be reciprocated, in the manner to secured by screws 202 to the block I60.

be described, for forming folds or pleats in said material. In the form shown, the shirring blade is provided with a recess 83 to clear the needle and, due to the arrangement and construction of the parts, the shirring blade engages the shirring material S on the top surface thereof. The shirring blade 80 is secured by screws 84 to a bracket 86 which is mounted on a pin 88 carried by an arm 90. The shirring blade 80 is held in engagement with the shirring material S by a spring 92, one end of which rests on the bracket 86 and the other end of which is secured to. the arm 90.

The arm is adjustably secured by screws 96 and slots 98 to an oscillating arm I00 secured onto a rock shaft I02. The rock shaft I02 is carried in a journal I04 on the forward end of a forwardly and downwardly inclined arm I06 of a bracket I08 and is secured to one end of an arcuate arm IIO. The arcuate arm H0 is provided with an arcuate slot II4 which is adapted to cooperate with a pin IIB carried on one end of a link H8, the opposite end of which is journaled about an eccentric I20 secured on a shaft I22. A wing nut I24 is adapted to secure the pin H6 in adjusted position in the slot I I4.

The bracket I08 is secured at its upper end by a bolt I30 on a boss I32 011 the rear of the overhanging arm 4, as shown in Figures 2 and 3. The bracket I08 is provided at its lower end with a journal I34 in which the shaft I22 is rotatably mounted. The shaft I22 is disposed at the back of the machine and is rotatably mounted in a boss I36 carried at one end of a bracket I30 which is secured to the machine head on the pulley side by a bolt I40 (see Figures 1 and 6). The shaft I22 carries a pulley I42 engaging a belt I44 which is driven by a pulley I46 attached to the drive shaft 20. The belt I44 may comprise a standard type of drive belt, such as, for example, a belt having a plurality of cross wires I48 engaging slots I50 in the pulleys I42 and I46 so as to provide a positive drive.

As shown in Figure 3, the bracket I08 is provided with a lateral arm I52 which at the end thereof carries the forwardly extending and downwardly inclined arm I 06.

A block I60 is secured to the arm I06 by means of countersunk screws I62. The block I60 is shaped so as to receive a pinion I64. The pinion I64 is adapted to cooperate with a rack I66 slidably disposed in a vertical groove in the block I60. The block I60 is provided with a cover plate I68 which is secured in position by screws I10.

The rack I66 is secured at one end of an arm I12 which extends transversely in the direction toward the presser foot of the machine.

A knife support I16 is adjustably secured by the screw I18 and the slot I86 on the arm I12. The knife support I16 is provided with a downwardly extending leg I82 on which a knife I84 is adjustably secured by means of the clamping plate I86 and the screws I88. Due to the construction of the arm I12 and the knife holder I15, the knife I84 is disposed adjacent and laterally of the heel of the presser foot I4. The knife I84, which is adapted to be reciprocated by means hereafter described, is adapted to cooperate with an adjustable stationary knife I90. The stationary knife I90 is carried at one end of an arm I92 which is slidably mounted in a block I94. A set screw I96 secures the arm I92 in adjusted position. The block I94 is secured by screws I88 to a plate 200 which, in turn, is The stationary knife I90 is adjusted in position on the machine so that the marginal portion of the stitched material will pass thereover before the stitched material leaves the presser foot as, for example, the stitched material passes beneath the heel of the presser foot. Upon reciprocation of the knife I86, the edge portion of the stitched material passing between it and the stationary knife will be severed.

The knife I84 is adapted to be reciprocated, relative to the stationary knife Iiili to effect the cutting operations, by the action of the oscillatory movement of the pinion I 64 and the rack Hi6 cooperating therewith. The drive means for effecting oscillatory movement of the pinion its will now be described.

The pinion I64 is oscillated by a pinion shaft 2H! secured to one end of a rock lever 2I2. The other end of the rock lever 2I2 is secured to a rock shaft 2M carried at one end of an arm fit. The other end of the arm 2H1 is secured. as by a screw 2| 8, to the eccentric I on the shaft I22. Thus, upon rotation of the shaft I22 from the drive end of the machine, the rack I66 will be reciprocated whereby the knife I815 will be reciprocated.

To minimize vibration, a spring 220 has one end thereof secured to the leg I82 and the other end secured to a pin 22I carried by the block I69.

In operation, the bottom layer of the base material B is fed beneath the guide plate 40, and the top layer of the base material T is fed so that the longitudinal edge thereof passes through the slot 14. The shirring material S is passed about the guide 58 and through the shirring guide from which is passes beneath the guide Ell on the feed plate 4E3. During operation of the machine, the shirring blade 80 is reciprocated so that the shirring material S on the plate is engaged by the blade 38 and is advanced to the presser foot in the form of folds or pleats between the top material T and the bottom material B. After the material passes through the zone of action of the needle and it has been stitched with a single row of stitches passing through all three materials but prior to its leaving the presser foot, the edge portion of the stitched material is passed over the stationary knife I99. Due to the reciprocation of the reciprocating knife I M, such marginal portion is severed.

On leaving the machine, the stitched material is in the form shown in Figure 10. Referring to Figure 10, it will be noted that the materials are secured together by a single line of stitches 222 passing through each of the materials T, B and s, and the edge of the stitched material is of uniform width and in close proximity to said line of stitches 222. The material is then turned whereby the line of stitches 222 is concealed on both sides of the product and the shirring material S extends in a direction opposite to that in which the materials T and B extend.

The pleats or folds of the shirring S can be varied in size by adjusting the stroke of the shirring blade 80.

The cutting of the edge of the stitched material is accomplished, in the preferred form of the invention, after the material has been stitched and before the stitched material passes from beneath the presser foot. Due to this, the concealed edge of the product is of uniform width and in close proximity to the row of stitches,

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with the result that an attractive product is obtained.

Since it is obvious that various changes and modifications may be made in the above description without departing from the nature or spirit thereof, this invention is not restricted thereto except as set forth in the appended claims.

I claim:

1. In a sewing machine, an overhanging arm, drive means including a rotating shaft at one end of said arm, a head on the other end of said arm carrying :a reciprocating needle, a feed dog, a presser foot to hold material in feeding engagement therewith, means to deliver upper and lower layers of base material to said presser foot, means to deliver a shirring material to said presser foot between said layers of base material, means engaging said shirring material in advance of said presser foot for forming folds or pleats therein, said presser foot being adapted to cooperate with said feed dog to feed all of said materials to the path of the needle for stitching by a single row of stitches, a stationary knife laterally of the heel of said presser foot and over which the edge portion of the stitched material passes, a second knife adapted to cooperate with said stationary knife to sever said edge portion before the stitched material passes from beneath said presser foot. a support carrying said second knife, a vertical rack on said support, a pinion cooperating with said rack, and means actuated by said rotating shaft to oscillate said pinion.

2. In a sewing machine, an overhanging arm, drive means including a rotating shaft at one end of said arm, a head on the other end of said arm carrying a reciprocating needle, a feed dog, a presser foot to hold material in feeding engagement therewith, means to deliver upper and lower layers of base material to said presser foot, means to deliver a shirring material to said presser foot between said layers of base material, a reciprocable shirring blade adapted to engage said shirring material in advance of the presser foot for forming folds or pleats therein, means actuated by said rotating shaft to reciprocate said blade, said presser foot being adapted to cooperate with said feed dog to feed all of said materials to the path of the needle for stitching by a single row of stitches, a stationary knife laterally of the heel of said presser foot and over which the edge portion of the stitched material passes, a second knife adapted to cooperate with said stationary knife to sever said edge portion before the stitched material passes from beneath said presser foot, a support carrying said second knife, a vertical rack on said support, a pinion cooperating with said rack, and means actuated by said rotating shaft to oscillate said pinion.

3. An attachment for a sewing machine having an overhanging arm, drive means including a rotating shaft on one end of said arm, a head on the other end of said arm carrying a reciprocating needle, a feed dog, a presser foot to hold material in feeding engagement therewith, means to deliver upper and lower layers of base material to said presser foot, and means to deliver a shirring material to said presser foot between said layers of base material, said attachment comprising a bracket adapted to be secured to said overhanging arm and carrying a reciprocable shirrer blade adapted to engage said shirring material in advance of said presser foot for forming folds or pleats therein, means adapted to be driven by said rotating shaft to reciprocate said blade, a stationary knife adapted to be disposed laterally of the heel of said presser foot so that the edge portion 0f the stitched material passes REFERENCES CITED thereover, a second knife adapted to cooperate The l w n r f rences are of record in the with said stationary knife to sever said edge file of this P t:

portion before the stitched material passes frorn 5 UNITED STATES PATENTS beneath said presser foot, 2. support carrying said second knife, a vertical rack on said support, a Number Name te pinion cooperating with said rack, and means 91 ess June 14, 1881 adapted to be driven from said rotating shaft to 260,291 Gilbert June 27, 1882 oscillate said pinion. 10 1, 33,705 De Voe Oct. 31, 1922 1,469,422 Luscher Oct. 2, 1923 CHARLES SEAMAN, ,277,721 Seaman Mar, 31, 1942

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