US2414249A - Two-unit welting - Google Patents

Description

Jan, 14, 1947. w. c. VIZARD 3 2,414,249,

TWO-UNIT WELTING Filed NOV. 29, 1945 Patented Jan. 14, 1947 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 2,414,249 TWO-UNIT WELTING William C. Vizard; Brockton, Mass.,- assignor to Barbour Welting C co -part'nership ompany, Brockt'on, Mass, 21;

Application November 29, 1945', Serial No. 631,576.

5 Claims.

ordinary Goodyear-weltingi.

As the shoe manufacturer purchases welting according to the required width of the resultant Welt extension or deck and not according to. the overall width of the welt, it

a closer fitting, non-grinning welt capable of holding the shoe upperm proper ing the formation of a. gutter between upper and welt.

of the plied welt,

age for theinseam stitchi inchwwide is divided to form base unit is 5% The two units are cemented together as shown in Fig. 2 with the cover flap adhesively secured to the wall I3'and. to the exposed surfaces of. the

Fig. 3 shows a variation in the welt of Fig. 2, producing a full half-inch deck and a base inch wide, made from the fillet of Fig. 1 by so the base cut that the bottom of the top width of inch, and the bottom of the base unit 22 is inch wide.

' Figs. and 6, a deck inch wideand a full half inch base is produced from a fillet inch wide by making a diagonal cut inch from the lefthand edge of the fillet, as at 23 a lateral cut 24 terminating 1% and a short vertical cut to the form units 25 and 26. Topunit 25 has I dercut flesh wall at 2'3, and a relatively narrow grain lip 21; and base unit 23 has a sloping inseam flange 28, and a narrow grain platform 29. The latter is preferably buffed or skived, before the units are cemented together under molding pressure, as in Fig. 6. As before, the cover flap 21 is cemented to the undercut flesh wall and over the sloping surface of the inseam flange.

In the remaining modifications a wider fillet (approximately one inch) is employed to furnish a welt having a full half-inch deck and a relatively wide base, and the grain lip of the top unit is cemented to an undercut wall and onto the flat top surface of aninseam flange of the base unit, but does not extend over the edge to the bottom of the base unit. These variations accordingly do not afford the manufacturing economies of the previous examples, but provide a sturdier construction for heavier shoes.

The form shown in Figs. 7 and 8 provides an flange and is particularly ad- 'with receding toes, for the inseam flange may be trimmed flush, without severing the inseam stitch which passes through the crease at the bottom of the receding shoulder. The fillet is cut substantially as shown in-Fig. 5, to provide base unit 32, but the base unit is inverted so that the fiat flesh by furnishing which is covered by the grain lip 35 of the top unit. The inseam groove 36 is located at the angle between the platform and the body of the inverted base unit, and the inseam stitch is buried in this groove, remote from the bottom of the welt and out of the way of the trimmer which guides on said bottom.

In Figs. 9 and 10, the fillet isalso divided substantially as shown in Fig. 5, b curled upwardly where it presses grain surface at 31. The surface of the grain platform is skived off as indicated at 38 to provide a flesh surface for firm adhesion of top unit 39 to base unit 4!).

Other variations of the methods and resulting products herein illustrated and described may be practiced while preserving the features which contribute to the ease or economy of manufacturing two-unit waiting, or to the durable shape and lasting appearance of shoes made with such 'welting. i

I claim:

1. A method of making two-unit welting, which consists in dividing a grain leather fillet by forming an inclined cut in the flesh body of 'the fillet and a lateral cut adjacent its grain surface, the angle between said cuts being obtuse, thereby to provide a top unit having a grain deck, an undercut flesh wall and ing from the top of said wall, and a base umt face, the angle between said cuts a grain lip projecthaving a marginal flange of less thickness than the body of said unit, cementing the top unit to the base unit, and cementing said grain lip to said wall and to the top of said marginal flange as a cover flap therefor, thereby forming a receding welt shoulder and an inseam flange below said shoulder.

2. A method of making which consists grain leather fillet by forming an inclined cut in the flesh body of the fillet and a lateral cut adjacent its grain surtwo-unit welting,

thereby to provide a top unit having a grain deck, an undercut flesh wall and a grain lip projecting from the top of said wall, having a marginal flange of the body of said unit, cementing the top unit to the base unit, and cementing said grain lip to said'wall and to the top and outer edge of said marginal flange as a cover flap therefor, thereby forming a receding welt shoulder and a'two-ply inseam flange below said shoulder.

3. A method of making two-unit welting, which consists in dividing a grain leather fillet by forming a short vertical cut in the base of the fillet, an inclined cut in the flesh body of the fillet and a lateral out adjacent its grain surface, the angle between said inclined and lateral cuts being obtuse, thereby to provide a top unit having a grain deck, an undercut flesh wall and a grain lip projecting from the top of said wall, and a base unit having a beveled marginal flange, cementing the top unit to the base unit, and

' lip to said wall and to the therefor, thereby forming a receding welt shoulder and an inseam flange below said shoulder.

l. A method of making two-unit welting, which'consists in dividing a grain leather fillet by forming a short vertical cut in the base of the fillet, an inclined cut in the flesh body of the fillet and a lateral cut inclining to its grain surface at the edge of the fillet, the angle between said lateral cuts being obtuse, thereby a top unit having a grain deck,

to provide dercut flesh wall and a grain lip pro the top of said wall, and a base unit having a beveled marginal flange, cementing the top unit to 'the base unit, grain lip to said wall and to the top and outer edge of said flange as a cover flap therefor, thereby forming a receding welt shoulder and a two-ply inseam flange below said shoulder.

5. A method of making two-unit welting, which consists in dividing a grain leather fillet by forming an inclined cut in the lateral cut adjacent its grain surface, and a vertical cut through the grain surface re-' mote from the edges of the fillet, the angle between said inclined and lateral cuts being obtuse, thereby to provide a top unit having a grain deck, and undercut flesh wall and a grain lip projecting from the top of said wall, and a base unit having a marginal flange of less thickness than the body of said unit, inverting the 'base unit, cementing the top and cementing said grain lip to said wall the top of 7 base as a cover flap therefor, thereby forming a receding welt shoulder and an inseam flange below said shoulder, the bottom of the flange being disposed in a plane appreciably above the plane of the bottom of said base unit.

WILLIAM C. VIZARD.

being obtuse,

the marginal flange of the inverted

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