US2084868A - Shoe and method of making same - Google Patents

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june 22, 1937. E. QUINN SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME 2 `sheets-sham 1 Filed Dec. 17, 1935 lNVENTOR fda/ard 0mm BY .v e.

ATTORNEY June 22, 193'?o E. 'QUINN SHOE AND METHOD oF MAKING 'SAME Filed Dec. '17, 19:55

2 Sheets-Sheet 2 |NVETOR Edward @zama Patented June 22, 1937 vUNITED STATES PATENT vOFFICE:

snol: AND METHOD oF MAKING SAME Edward Quinn, Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to The Del-Mac Shoe Process Corporation, New York,

Application December 17, 1935, Serial No. 54,797

Claims.

to support the heel and quarter sections of the upper, when the shoe is worn the stiiener tends,

by reason of its resiliency under the damp heatv of the foot, to return to its original shape and the, shoe becomes distorted, breaks down, and does not conform to the foot. If the sti'eners are less than amply heavy, they lack the strength to afford proper support and distortion is again the result. Because of this many shoemakers have adopted inferior materials which are stifl and less comfortable to the wearer than leather 20 or fibre reinforcements.

A principal object of my invention, therefore, is to provide an improved shoe having a fibrous counter reinforcement which will conform closely to the last in manufacture and be strong and comfortable and hold the shape of the last in the finished shoe. Another object-is to provide a shoe having an improved toe construction.

Also, inasmuch as toe and counter stiifeners are sold as articles of independent manfacture,

o a further object of my invention is to provide 35 of this specification:

counter and toe reinforcements oi' improved construction. Other and further objects will appear from the following specication. Y

Referring to the drawings which form a part Figure .1 is a plan view on a reduced scalo of a counter blank prepared in accordance with my invention. f

Figure 2 is a sectional view taken on line 2 2 40 of Figure 1.

50 its lining, and illustrates the manner in 4which 55 ments, have been assembled, the upper beingthe counter blank may be. inserted between the upper and lining preparatory to lasting the shoe. Figure 'I is a perspective view of a last on which the shoe parts, including `my improved reinforcewi.' .3s-ss) broken away at a quarter section of the shoe to disclose the relationship of the several parts.

Figure 8 is a side elevation of my improved shoe, the rear portion being sho-wn in section and the upper being broken away over the toe tip to reveal my improved toe construction.

Figure 9 is a fragmental section on a greatly enlarged scalaillustrating in exaggerated proportions the form of the counter stiffener in the finished shoe.

In carrying out my inventionl utilize an amply heavy leather vor fibre counter blank I0 of conlventional variety and of a configuration proper for the shoe into which it is to be assembled, the marginscl I of the blank being sklved in the usual manner. The size of the blank, however, is somewhat smaller than would ordinarily be required.

'I then weaken the blank over the areas which normally would be subjected to the greatest strain in the lasting operations. To do this I prefer to form slits orr gashes I2- I2 and I3--I3 etc., in the outer surface of the stiieners oblique to the planes of the surfaces of the stifeners. As

lshown; the slits are curved andthe curves are convex toward the direction in which'fthe blank is drawn about the last.

As shown, the incisions I2 are formed in the middle of the counter blank, which 'is the back of the shoe, and are curved in opposite directions on either side of the centre, each set of cuts being substantially parallel. The two sets of incisionsy I3 are located respectively in the wings of the counter adjacent to the cuts I2. I prefer to extend'the outs only part way through the counter blank, as shown, but they may be extended entirely through to form slits, if desired.

The toe stiilener 30 consists of an amply heavy leather or fibre blank skived and contoured in the usual manner and Ahaving incisions 3I-3I formed therein to extend angularly inward, in

all respectssimilar to the cuts I2 and I 3 formed in the counter blank.4v

'Ihe blanks thus prepared are then wetted or tempered and a coat of adhesive I5, such as the usual shoemakers paste, is applied to both sur- .faces of the respective blanks and to the facing surfaces of the upper i1 and lining I8 ofthe shoe, whereupon the blanks are inserted in interiining relation between the upper and lining, as indicated in Figure 6. f

The upper parts, including the reinforcements, are then conformed toa last on which the .shoe is assembled in the usual manner, the wings 0f the counter blankbeing drawn forwardly and the margins of the upper, lining and reinforcements' b'eirgv pulled over the last and secured to a sole member 2l by means of tacks 22 or other' suitable means.

It will be found that the top line and bottom line of the counter stiffener will conform closely to the last with very little shirring or plaiting,

. because the intermediate slitted portions of the stiffener will give or stretch slightly and the slits will open up to provide roughened surfaces, obtaining a-firm .bond with the paste which iiows into the slits. When the paste congeals, it serves to restiffen the construction and hold it in its v'lasted shape.

All of the shoemaking operations shown re'- ferred to are customary and usual except for the formation of the incisions in the fibrous reinforcing parts. Also, the further operations necessary to complete the shoeV may be the same as are customarily performedin making turned, Mc- Kay or welted constructions and no detailed de'- scription of such shoemaking practices are necessary for a complete disclosure of my present invention.

Reinforcements for counters. and toes are usually manufactured separately and sold to the 4Shoemaker either `in fiat blanks or premolded substantially to the sizeland conformation re-` quired for the shoex Stiffeners having my im-` proved construction may be similarly premol'ded," if desired, without sacrificing any of the advantages here taught.

' The shoe 'embodying my improved stiffeners is strong and comfortable and the top line and bottom line at the counter portion maintain their shape andshow -no tendency to sag or break down. The weight of the counter reinforcement being adequate, there is ample strength and stiffness at the heel and quarter sections of the upper while the weakening effect of the incisions? over the areas of greatest strain robs the material ofl its elasticity at these points to such a degree that it cannot warp by reason of its tendency to` re sume its normal flat condition. Any `such tendi5.

sired that this disclosure be considered merely jvmarginspf'the blang.

illustrative of my invention as dened in the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A shoe comprising an upper and a lining therefor, a fibrous reinforcement interlined between said upper a-nd lining, said reinforcement having a plurality of cuts formed in the outer surface thereof intermediate the top line and the sole of the shoe, certain of said cuts being located centrally of the reinforcement and extending approximately horizontal and other of said cuts extending approximately vertical and located forwardly of the horizontal cuts, and adhesive bonding the outer surface of the reinforcement to the inner surface of the upper,said adhesive extending into said cuts.

2. A shoe comprising an upper and a fibrous reinforcement lining said upper, said reinforcement having a plurality of open scores formed A therein extending angularly inward from the outer lsurface thereof intermediate the top line` andthe sole of the shoe, `said cuts being located centrally of the reinforcement and extending substantially horizontal, and vadhesive bonding the outer surface of the reinforcement to the inner surface of the upper, said adhesive extending into said scores.

3. A shoe comprising an upper and a fibrous reinforcement lining said upper, said reinforcement having a plurality of curvilinear incisions lformed therein extending angularly inward. from the outer surface thereof over the greater portion`of a central area intermediate the top line and the sole of the shoe 'transversely of the back seam of the shoe, and adhesive bonding the outer 3 surface 'of the reinforcement to the inner surface `of the upper, said adhesive extending into the incisions.

' 4. A shoe reinforcement of the character de- 'I scribed comprising a fibrous sheet vhaving a plurality of curvilinear scorings formed in a surface thereof over the greater portion of a central area intermediate opposite margins, the curves of the scorings on opposite sides of the centre of the sheet being convex in the direction of the adjacent margins of thesheet.

5.*A reinforcement for tlie toe 4portion of a shoe mprising a contoured blank of fibrous sheetin having a plurality of curved cuts formed y therein over the greater portion of the central a intermediate the thecurves of saidcut''on opposite sides ofthe centre of the blank being convex in the direction of the adjacent EDWARD QUINN.

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