US2050596A - Resilient tie - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 11, 1936. F- 2,050,596

RESILIENT TIE Filed May 19, 1934 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR .Zsadore David hblzfson ATTORNEY Aug 11, 1936.

I, D. WOLFSON RESILIENT TIE Filed May 19, 1954 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 I N VE TO R Isadore David Wo /Ban OR N EY Patented Aug. 11, 1936 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE RESILIENT TIE Isadore David Wolfson, New York, N. Y. Application May 19, 1934, Serial No. 726,427

4 Claims.

This invention relates to neckties and particularly .to the type disclosed in my prior Patents Nos. 1,541,675 and 1,826,035, and to the method of making the same.

It has heretofore been customary in making four-in-hand ties to overlap the rear flaps of the tie on each other. Such overlapping has customarily been necessary to conceal the raw edges of the flaps and to secure in place the filler, padding or interlining which gave body to the tie..

My invention contemplates the provision of a tie wherein not only is the filler or padding entirely eliminated but wherein the rear flaps are arranged in edge adjacent instead of overlapping relation, suflicient body being provided in the tie byreason of its novel construction to enable it adequately to perform its functions.

My invention further contemplates the provision of a tie which is highly resilient in all directions of stress, which is extremely resistant to wrinkling, which is rip-proof at the seams even under considerable stress, which is adapted to be machine sewn without the necessity for any hand work except where my new cross stitching or the usual hand running stitch is employed, and yet which is adapted to form a perfect small knot at all tying points in its length and to provide a much desired flaring pleat of good appearance below the knot.

My invention further contemplates the provision of a tie of two sheets of material, which is of great strength, which may be readily manipulated in the collar of the wearer, which lies flat against the shirt of the wearer being prevented from curling or other distortion, and which can be easily tied and untied repeatedly without material or permanent wrinkling.

My invention further contemplates the provision of a combined lining and resistance material combining in one, with even greater efliciency, all of the advantages of separate linings and separate fillers or padding heretofore in general use.

My invention further contemplates the provision of a tie in which a suitable pressing form may be inserted after the tie is made to permit pressing of the tie as a final step in its construction and by the user when desired.

My invention further contemplates the provision of an efficient method for making the tie.

The various objects of my invention will be clear from the description which follows, and from the drawings, in which,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of one form of my new tie.

Fig. 2 is a cross-section thereof taken on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is an enlarged view of the wide end of thetie, part of the lining having been removed to show the stitching by meansof which the tie is secured to its lining.

Fig. 4 is a similar view of the end portion of a modified form of the tie showing the tie partly unfolded to disclose the end of the lining, which in the form shown, terminates inwardly of the extreme end of the tie.

Fig. 5 is an enlarged view of the lining material showing the weave thereof.

Fig. 6 is a section of the lining material taken on the line 6-6 of Fig- 5.

Fig. 7 is an elevational view of the tie as it appears in the first stages of its manufacture, and turned inside out.

Fig. 8 is a similar view of the tie as it ap-' pears after it has been turned right side out and ends closed and stitched.

Fig. 9 is a rear view of tie as it appears in the reversed position in which the spaced bar tacks are made therein.

Fig. 10*is a front view of the same after the tie has again been turned right side out, showing a pressing form inserted thereinto.

Fig. 11 is a rear view of a modified form of the tie wherein a cross or lacing stitch replaces the bar tacks.

Fig. 12 is a fragmentary enlarged view of the same showing the cross stitch used in connection with bar tacks.

Fig. 13 is a perspective view, partly in section, taken on the line l3l3 of Fig. 8 showing the stitching at the end of the tie.

In one practical embodiment of my invention which I have shown by way of example, the tie comprises only two parts It] and II co-extensive in length and width and of substantially the same shape.

While each of the parts Ill and II may be made if desired of a single piece of bias cut material, I prefer, in order to save material, to make each of these parts of three pieces and to join the pieces in each of the parts In and II by suitable stitching arranged substantially at the end of the neck band portion of the tie as shown at 40, Figs. 1 and '7.

The part I0 is made of any suitable material customarily used for the outer or exposed part of the tie and which will be termed hereinafter tie material while the part I l is made of material having the combined functions of a silk or finishing lining and a filler strip or padding, and will be referred to as lining material.

As shown in Figs. 1, 5, 6, 7 and 8, the material used for the lining II is cut on the bias to give it resiliency and comprises preferably the warp threads I2 of silk, satin or similar finishing material of good appearance interwoven with the thicker and heavier filler threads I3 of wool or similar crease resisting material. The exposed face I4 0f the lining is lustrous, soft, and of the appearance of silk or the like, thereby enhancing the good appearance of the tie. The inner or concealed face I5, however, of the lining I I may be comparatively dull in appearance and exposes a greater part of the comparatively thick threads I3. The thin warp threads I2 are woven over two or more of the filler threads I3 on the exposed face or front of the goods and under a single filler thread on the reverse face or back of the goods.

The comparatively heavy filler threads I3 impart to the lining the functions of the filler or padding heretofore used in neckties, giving sulficient body to the goods, resisting wrinkling, and eliminating the necessity for a separate sheet of filling material.

In order to prevent any possible displacement of the lining II relatively to the outer part I 0 and thereby to prevent the possible wrinkling which might occur by reason. of such displacement, the edges I6 of the lining are secured throughout their entire lengths to'the adjacent edges I! of the outer part III as by means of suitable over-seaming stitching I8 (Figs. 3 and 7) such as can readily be made on an overlock spiral stitch machine. The stitching I8 is preferably of the resilient looped type permitting elongation of the tie under stress without material stress being put on the stitching, which elongates readily with the tie.

It will be understood that the over-seaming stitching I8 is made while the part II] and its lining II are arranged in back to back relation (Fig. 7) so that the tie may later be turned right side out. It will further be understood that the stitching is made while the tie is in its fiat or unfolded state and that such stitching is omitted from the ends of the tie. In other words, the lining II and the outer part I 0 remain at this stage preferably unstitched by the stitching I8 at the transverse edges or ends of the tie. Where, however, the lining 35 is not coextensive in length with the tie part III, (Fig. 4) the stitching I8 may be made over the inturned ends 36 of the tieto finish the tie at its ends. While the tie remains in its reversed position, as shown in Fig. '7, it is closed at its wide end on the edges 20 and 2| by suitable stitching as 22 and is also closed by similar stitching on one edge as 23 of its narrow end, leaving open the other edge 24 of the narrow end.

The tie is then turned or reversed into right side out position to bring the face I4 of the lining goods into exposed position at the back of the tie and to carry the front face of the piece I0 into its proper position on the' outside of the tie. Finally, a line of through stitching as 25, (Fig. 8) is made across the wide end of the tie preferably inwardly of the now concealed stitching 22'and through the four thicknesses of material formed by the turned in and doubled layers of lining and outer material (Fig. 13). The narrow end of the tie is stitched by the line of through stitching 26 made preferably inwardly double stitching above described and thereby are 6 prevented from curling up or becoming distorted under the various conditions of use and under stress or changes in atmospheric conditions, making a strong and substantially undistortable fiat end on the tie adapted to lie flat against the 10 shirt of the user.

The edge 3| may now be brought into adjacent relation to the edge 32 of the tie and said edges are secured together to form the tie into its tubular shape. Where, however, the machine 15 bar tacks are used to join said edges, the tie edges 3| and 32 are not brought together in the usual manner but in reverse position so that the knot 38 of the bar tack will be invisible *or concealed on the inside of the tie after the tie has 20 been again turned right side out. In other words, the edges 3| and 32 are brought together into adjacent or even abutting relation with the lining II appearing on the outside of the tie and the part III on the inside. The machine bar 25 tacks 31 are then made at the required spaced intervals. The tie is then again turned right side out into the position shown in Fig. 10 wherein the tie part I0 is on the outside or exposed faces of the tie and the lining II on the 30 inside.

Where, however, it is desired to have a resilient connection between the edges 3| and 32, the bar tacks may be entirely omitted. In this case, the edges 3| and 32 of the tie are brought to- 35 gether in the opposite direction from that shown in Fig. 9. That is, said edges are brought together in the usual manner with the tie part III forming the outer face of the tie and the lining II being arranged on the inside, as is shown in Fig. 11. The same is true when hand made bar tacks are used to hold the edges of the flaps together, or when the resilient connection consists of the usual slip stitching.

The edges 3| and 32 nevertheless in either case are brought into edge adjacent position and not into overlapping relation, as has heretofore been customary and usual. After said edges have been brought into the desired relation, the resilient cross stitching 39 is made at the edges of the lining part of the tie. It will be noted that the thread 4| of the cross stitching 39 enters the edge 32 of the lining at a point 42 spaced in advance from the point 43 where the thread leaves said edge 32. Similarly, the thread enters the edge 3| at a point 44 in advance of the point 45 where the thread leaves the lining part of the edge 3| (Fig. 12). In this manner, when the edges 3| and 32 are forcibly separated as they may be should it be desired to inspect the lining, 60 and as is indicated in Fig. 12, the threads assume a diagonal position instead of a straight line position, but the threads are nevertheless locked against each other by reason of the under lock between the points 42 and 43 on one edge and the 5 corresponding points 44 and 45 on the other edge.

It will be noted that the cross stitching may also be stretched longitudinally as well as transversely, if desired, without adversely affecting the stitching, and that each stitch is locked relatively to the adjacent stitch and in contradistinction from the running stitch new custom arily used in the closing of the edges of the flaps of ties of the type now being described.

'It will be understood that as shown in Fig. 11,

the cross stitching 39 may be used throughout the entire lengths of the tie flaps 29 and 30. Or as shown in Fig. 12, said stitching may be used in connection with bar tacks 31 and particularly in the neck band portion of the tie and in part of the tying portion, there being no bar tacks, however, on the tie intermediate of the ends of said stitching. Or, as shown in Fig. 9, the bar tacks whether made by hand or by machine may be used alone without the cross stitching 39, or the usual well-known slip stitching may be used for connecting the edges of the flaps in their edgeadjacent relation.

In any case, however, the tie, after being arranged in the tubular form shown in Fig. 10, may then be pressed to form the edge creases 46 and 41 therein as a final step in the process of making the tie and in distinction from former methods wherein the pressing operation is usually done before the tie is completed. To accomplish this result a suitably tapered form as 50 is inserted into the tie between the rear fiaps and the face of the tie, said form stretching the tie into its proper shape, clearly defining the folds where the edge creases 48 and 41 are to come, and straightening out the center seam so that the edges 3| and 32 come close together throughout their entire lengths. The tie may then be pressed on the form to finish it.

It will be understood that the wearer of the tie may similarly press the tie should it lose its proper shape, by means of a similar form similarly inserted into the tubular tie, in a manner heretofore difficult in connection with the ties in which the edge stitching is utilized to hold a filler strip and therefore obstructs the entrance of a form into the tie after the tie has been otherwise finished.

It will further be seen that even though a pressing form be not used to press the finished tie, nevertheless no ridges or impressions will appear on the face of the tie when it is pressed i since the flaps 29 and 30 do not overlap.

It will also be seen that the adjacent or abutting edges 3! and 32 of the back flaps 29 and 30 may be readily spread apart for the inspection of the lining material I I, and that the bar tacks 31 or the cross stitching 39 may be out if desired to permit the tie to be opened and pressed while flat.

In the form of my invention shown in Fig. 4, the lining 35 terminates inwardly of the ends of the tie. Nevertheless, the remainder of the tie may be made as hereinbefore described in connection with the co-extensive lining and outer 1 material excepting that the ends of the tie need not be stitched by the stitching- 25 and 26, the hem 36 being constructed at the time that the stitching I8 is made, as has been hereinbefore indicated.

In any case, the resiliency of the tie, lining and outer material thereof, together with the various stitching for securing these parts together, make it impossible for the lining to become displaced relatively to the tie material or to become wrinkled whereby the tie is made highly resistant to any wrinkling effect thereon. The threads l3 of the lining provide the body and resiliency so highly desirable in a tie of the type here involved, resisting wrinkling and making the tie highly resilient throughout the entire area thereof. By means of the-over-stitching at the edges of the tie, great longitudinal stress may be put thereon without any danger of any of the stitching giving way under the stress.

By abutting the edges of the back flaps instead,

of overlapping them, a considerable quantity of material is eliminated, thereby effecting substantial savings in the cost of the tie as well as making the tie thin and thereby making it possible for the tie to slip through the collar freely and to be tied and untied with ease and rapidity. At the same time, a perfect knot can be produced at all tying points of the tie, the knot spreading at its lower end into the wide form sought for by good dressers with the desirable pleat being formed below the knot, by reason of the hinging action of. the tie flaps about their edges, said action being permitted by reason of their relatively free and non-overlapping relation.

The tie construction holds the lining in place at its edges and ends in such a manner as to cause it to follow the tie material in to all the shapes into which said. material is formed during the tying and untying operations.

While I have described and shown my invention in connection with a four-in-hand tie, I wish it to be understood that my invention may be applied as well to ties of the ascot or muiiler type.

It will be seen that I have provided a tie wherein a substantial saving is effected in the amount of' material used, of good appearance, finished throughout, in which all padding and interlining is eliminated, and wherein the resiliency is imparted by making the lining of such nature that it has all the advantages of a separate interlining without any of the disadvantages thereof.

It will further be seen that my improved tie is of great strength, being substantially ripproof, that the lining is of pleasing appearance, being provided with a silk or the like finish, that it is finished in tubular form and hence may be pressed on a form after being finished, and that it is well designed to meet the requirements of practical use.

While I have shown and described certain specific embodiments of my invention, it will be understood that I donot wish to limit myself thereto but desire to claim my invention as broadly as may be permitted by the state of the prior art and the scope of the appended claims.

I claim: 7 1. A two-part necktie crease-resisting through out its entire area and comprising a bias-cut sheet of tie material, a bias-cut lining sheet coextensive with and directly adjacent to the tie material, said lining sheet comprising silk threads interwoven with wool threads, said silk threads forming an exposed outer silk facing and said wool threads forming an inner wool back, said sheets forming the only material in the tie, the end edge portions of the tie material and lining being infolded, lines of stitching passing through the infolded end edge portions of the tie material and of the lining to maintain the ends of the tie fiat against distortion and curling, the longitudinal edges of the tie being arranged in transversely separable adjacent relation, and stitching joining said edges at the back of the tie at sufiiciently spaced intervals to permit said edges to be transversely separated to expose the silk facing without breaking the stitching.

2. A necktie which is crease-resisting throughout its entire length and width comprising solely two different superposed sheets of material, each of said sheets being cut on the bias and being resilient, said sheets being of the same size and shape, the outer of said sheets being of tie material, the inner sheet being of combined crease-resisting and lining material woven of comparatively fine threads to provide a silk facing on one face of said inner sheet forming a finishing lining on the tie, said silk threads being interwoven with comparatively coarse creaseresisting threads to form a different crease-resisting facing on the other face of said inner sheet, loose stitching securing the peripheral edges of said sheets together throughout their entire lengths with the crease-resisting facing adjacent the rear face of the outer sheet, the stitched longitudinal edge portions of said sheets being folded on to the back of the tie in edge-adjacent relation to form a pair of rear flaps concealing and protecting the silk facing, and stitching joining the longitudinal edges of the tie together at points sufliciently spaced apart longitudinally to permit said edges to be spread apart transversely for exposure and inspection of said silk facing.

3. A crease-resisting neck tie consisting solely of two parts, one of said parts comprising a biascut sheet of tie material, the other of said parts comprising a bias-cut sheet of lining material, said lining material comprising silk and wool threads interwoven to form a silk facing on one face of the sheet and a wool facing on the other face of the sheet, said sheets being secured together with the wool facing adjacent the rear face of the sheet of tie material, said sheets being folded to provide a pair of similar rear flaps at the back of the neck tie, the longitudinal edges of said rear flaps being arranged in edge adjacent relation, and means for separably securing said longitudinal edges together against complete separation whereby said edges may be separated to expose said silk facing for inspection.

4. The method of making a tie comprising stitching the edges of a tie part and a lining part together while said parts are in face to face relation, turning the tie right side out, bringing the secured edges of the parts together to form a tube with the lining outside and tacking the secured edges together in edge-to-edge relation, and then again turning the tie into right side out position.

ISADORE DAVID WOLFSON.

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