US2012560A - Sewing machine for and method of forming stitching - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 27, 1935. J. A. GOODMAN 2,012,566

SEWING MACHINE FQR AND METHOD OF FORMING S'I'ITCIIING Filed May 9, 1932 3 Sheets-sheaf. l

Aug. 27, 1935. J.-A. GOODMAN 2,012,560

- SEWING MACHINE FOR AND METHOD OF FORMING STITCHING Filed May 9, 1932 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 I ///////I///II/II/III Aug. 27, 1935- J. A. GOODMAN SEWING MACHINE FOR AND METHOD OF FORMING STITCHING Filed May 9, 1932 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Patented Aug. 27, 1935 MACHINE. ron AND. METnoi) or 'FORMING s'rrronme,

Jacob A'Gobdman, Indianapolis, Ind. ApplicationMay 9, 1932, serial No. 610,225 7 I a Giana- G j 1 ,c '1 types may be use'din association with the stitch SEWING The invention pertains to sewing in a manner 5 of successive stitches, to sew each stitch to pass Various types of sewing machines are suitable through the fabric in producing my novel stitch for'the practice of my invention whenpro'vided formation only predeterminedstitches are made with special mechanism which will function to to engage the fabric. Also whereas itisconven- V produce stitches of the desired character inthe tional, in sewing, to form the stitchesand thererequired relation with the fabricto be operated 7 19 after draw themtight against the sewed fabric upon. The method of producing the novelstitchl permitting the interloops or concatenatio-iis of ing andthe general character and function of the the stitches to position themselves wherever the] special mechanical features adapted to carry out fallagainst the fabric, inmy novel stitch conisuch method .will becom l d o conside struction during the formationthere'cf I hold eration of anover-edgingmachine which in its '5 the stitches so as not'to be drawn tight and ordinary capacityrfunctions to-produce stitching against the fabric surface and govern the posi around and along the edge of fabrics. The-emtion of the concatenations within the stitch. The bodiment of my invention inan over-edging mapresent inventioncomprises the method of and chine of thetypei known as a looper will be machine for producing stitches with 'onefor more specifically described, I I

20 of these novel characteristics. A looping machine, as is known to thoseskilled b The improved form of stitching inits various in the art, co prises a stitch formin a d fabri embodiments is highly ornamental due to the "feed mechanism having a base element, usually in way in which the same. is. joined to afa'bricand the form of a dial. 'Theb'ase element and the the peculiar form assumed by the various stitches. stitch forming mechanism are movable relative I It may be used in many instances as a substitute to each other, and when the base elementis a dial v for embroidery or lace Work as an edging, for joinsuch movement is rotary". Located on the base ing fabrics and forornamental work on the sure element are designated spaced stations which f f fabric during the relative mo tionare brought progres- In order to produce stitching as described sively opposite to the stitch mechanism in' timed above, of which the distinguishing characteris relation withthe formation of successive stitches. 36 tic is the engagei'nent of only predetermined Conventionally these stations are equipped with stitches withthe fabric, I'pres'entthe fabrictoa 1 On which the fabric is p e'd and which stitch formingmechanism during the formation present the fabric to the stitch forming mechaof only predetermined stitches. During the nisrn in their respectiv'eturns. I equip the base formation of other stitchesthefabric is not preelement with such empaling pins only atfcertain 3,5

' sented to the stitch forming vmechanisrmand in stations iii-an arrangement determinedby the the preferred embodiment the fabric is actually desired sequence in which the respective stitches withheld from the stitch forming mechanismiby are to penetrate and miss the fabric. -In the prepositive means which interposes between the sewferred embodiment, and in order to insure that ing needle and the fabric to guide the needle away the needle does not penetrate the fabric in the 4O from the fabric andalso to hold the fabric in a formationof certain stitches, Iequip stations that position where the sewing needle cannot engage have no empaling pins with elements which inter or penetrate the same. This feature alone, with pose between the needle and the fabric to" guide out the other novel stitch characteristics m enthe d e away' rom the'fabrimand/or hold the ,r tioned and to be hereinafter more fully described, fabric away from t e needle.- These elements produces a stitch that is newandlvery useful "in are a slight modification of the existing empalin'g various types of work as will laterappear; pins and are produced cheaply t add 1itt1e To more readily present the fabric to a stitch nothing to the 00s of t a a forming mechanism so as to" produce stitching In order to produce a stitch of novel'char' cter of the desired character nov'el fabric feeding Which is 10056, Open, and n drawn tighliiagainst 56 to produce a novel stitch formation. The stitch formation is novel in two important particulars. Whereas, it is conventional, informing a series means is utilized which is adapted to present the fabric to such mechanism during; the formation of only predetermined stitches. It will be understood, however, that within thev spirit of m'y'invention conventional fabric feeders: o'f variou's forming mechanism and thelpresentation' of the fabric to the stitchin'ginechanism controlled mariually or by other mechanical expedients.

the fabric, I form the stitch around an. elongated free ended element of lateraldimensioni sufficient to give the desired predetermined looseness to the stitch. This element mayrha ve circular or other cross section but in any case when the g stitch is formed and is beingdrawn down it is arrested by the surface of the elongated element and is withheld against being drawn tight against the fabric. ,Thecompleted stitches can slide'off of the free end of the elongated element during the subsequent formation of successive stitches. For certain classes of work it is important that within the stitch the interloop or concatenations occupy a definite position and that in successive stitches the concatenationsbe uniformly positionedand/or in spaced relation. 1 With this in view,- adjacent the'position where chaining finger by l3.

the interloop is formed the elongated element may have an edge which receives the concatenations and holds them during the steps of tightening and completing the stitch.

The characteristics of looseness and of definitely positioned concatenations are independent of each other and of the previously described novel arrangementwherein only predetermined stitches engage the fabrics Eachof these features of stitch construction is valuable per se,

particularly from an ornamental standpoint,

and can be used to advantage in various kinds of 'work, separately or together, depending uponthe demands of the particular sewing being done. 7 To'produce'loose stitches I use an elementsimrilar to theconventional chaining finger of a looping machine; which, may take the place of and perform the functions of a chaining finger .when, for example, my invention is applied to alooping machine. Itdiffers from the conventional chaining finger in that it is bigger around. It may be a chaining finger from a machine of a larger gauge than the one to which the invention is applied. a

The .ordinary looping machine'produces the so called double chaining stitch by interlooping two threads alternately on opposite sides of a chain ing finger and while formingv each interloop drawing the previously formed interloop tight "against the side of the chaining finger opposite.

conventionally, the chaining finger is .small enough for the particular machine so as not to interfere with the stitch being drawn tight against the fabric. In its preferred embodiment my chaining finger is fiat and wide with edges along each side to receive and hold the concatenations of the stitches while they are being drawn 'tight and'complemd.

This application is directed to the .machine I and method of producing my novel stitching and Fig. 3 is a plan Fig.2; Fig.4 is anelevation looking toward, the ends is'a companion case to my copending application, Serial No.610,226, filed May 9, 1932, which is directed to the stitch construction asan article and-to its use.

Fig. 2 is a cross sectional view of a looper dial,

further showing the application of my invention to that type of machine; a

view of the structure shown in of the dial pins in Fig. 3;

Fig.5 is a detailed perspective view of a group .of the looper dial pins; Fig. .6 is a perspective view of the stitching in the process of formation on the chaining finger; Fig. '7 is a detailed sectional view of partsof the dial.

'in the stitchingof my invention; and,

the needle I4 is mounted on the arm 55 to oscillateradially of the dial during its stitch forming operation. The looping finger I8 is mounted on the carrier 19 to move back and forth with the needle and towards each end of its stroke adapted to interloop its thread with the needle thread, as iswell known in the art. As is conventional the needle and looping finger pass respectively under and over the chaining finger l3 in moving from end to end of their strokes.

- The dial II is mounted to rotate in timed relation with the stitch forming mechanism a fixed The looping machine as so far described is.

conventional and the same iscommonly used to join a plurality of rows or courses of knitted fabric. Each loop of the rows of-knitted loops to be joined is empaled on one of the 'pins 2!, successive loops of a row being empaled on successive pins. The needle E4 in its sewing operation is guided along the groove 23 to pass through any knitted loops'empaled on that pin. Successive sewing stitches are made at successive stations so that each loop of the courses being sewed is locked by a sewing stitch. Heretofore,

.so far as I am aware, no one has ever used a looping machine'except to join courses or rows of knitted fabric. The machine was especially designed for that purpose.

According to my invention, I have a new use for a looping machine. I empale a fabric edge on pins only at intermittent stitch forming stations The edge may be the terminal edge of the fabric or may be a folded edge. Whereas looping machines were heretofore used only to sew knitted fabric such a machine when constructed according to my invention may be used 7 to join or edge fabrics or work the surface thereof with a novel stitch construction of ornamental character. I can empale the fabric on alternate pins-or on pins in some other sequence, and I am not confined to a uniform sequence throughout the-width of the fabric. On the contrary, pleasing ornamental effects can be obtained by varying the sequence. By simply empaling the fabric at intermittent stitch forming stations of the dial I depart from prior art practice and obtain a wide variety of ornamental efiects. The

. aerate-c.

needle will pass through the fabricat only those stitch stations where the fabric is empaled. At stations where no fabric is empaled theneedle will miss thefabric and a stitch willbe produced which is not sewed to the fabric and which is joined to the fabric onlythrough the intermediary cf other sewed stitches. It will readily be seen-that by the exercise of 'my invention, and

the method above set forth,*intermittent stitches in groups of one or more will be passed through.

the fabric and inthe interval therebetween there will be chains of one or morestitches which are free from the fabric. 7

Fabrics with pleasing ornamental effects can thus be produced. For example j if alternate stitches are sewed to the "fabric the result will be as shown in Figs. 11 and '12. show knitted base fabrics designated generally by reference characters 3| and 32. Thetwo fabrics, in thisi-nstanceare sewed together by my novel Stitch, but it should. be understood that my inin'g one of each of the openings 35 and 36 on 'certain empaling pins and passing the needle with the needle thread (it therethrough. results in the threadB-S of the looping finger interlooping with the needle thread on one face of the fabric as shown. Between successive sewed stitches described thereis a chain stitch, indicated generally by the reference character 3'5, which does not penetrate the fabric and therefore is notsewed;

These unsewed stitches are formed in the same manner as the sewed stitches. Itwill be clearly seen from Figs. 11' and 12 that these 'unse'wed chain stitches have so merged with the adjacent ='sewed stitches that individual stitches have lost theiridentity. The stitches have merged into a mass of inter1'dopi -n'gs which produce an orna ment'al effect in the final product far beyond ex- This will readily lee-seen by comparing Fig. 6 which shows :the "conventional double chaining stitch in the process of formation, and Fig. 11

v a which showsthe stitch structure resulting from sewing only alternate of the stitches shown in I The fables above described can be produced by the method above. described on the ordinary looping inachine constructed so that each stitch formed will engage the fabric by empalin'g the fabric oniy on certain of thedial pins, but I have simplified the process. In doing so I simply remeve" those 'em'pali rig', pins from the looping dial which-areas stitch stations Where unsewed chain stitches are to be produced. At thesestations there are no means for presenting the fabric to thes'ewin'g needle andthe needle misses the fabric. I-have found. the machine so constructed to wdrk'satisracteruy. Howevento insure better operation of the stitch forming mechanism and to adapt the machineto the speed of mass proeuctienjrsu ly, at each station where'unsewed 'iiarnstitcnes are to be produced, positive means,

guide thejne'edle "away rrom the fabric"and.

withhold the fabric from the nee le. I will now proceed to describe these means.

At stations where iinsewed ls'tit'ches 'aie to be These figures scribed.

produced I providefi'pins fig'Figs 2 5, with shank portions zfl" 'the"same as the shank per:

tions 24 of the p'in's 2|,'- for mounting the'min the dial. "The active-end of the pins22 areshort er than those of pins 3 2 I "so that they project a lesser distance from-the periphery of the dial" I I.

Thesepin's 22 may thus constitutea guide to determine the distanceinwardly to' whi'ch fabric is empaledon' the pins 2|, as shown in Fig. 3. .The ends of the pins 22 are made blunt aslat 25"as distinguishedfrom the tapered'points 25' of the pins 2l'. This prevents'fabric being empaled on the pins 22;duringirapidproductiom As willlbe clear from the drawings the pins 22 are deflected I 15 forming" mechanism and'o'ut of the plane of the pins 2 I as best shown in Figs. 2 and 5. This furupwards at 2'6"at' an' angle towards the stitch ther insuressagainst th'e fabric being empaled o'n the pins 22 and-has an added function to be de- The pins 22 have a needle guiding groove 23 like the groove 23 in pins 2I. Because of the deflection of the-pins 22 the needle guidin'g surface 23 is'defle'ctedo'ut of the plane'described by. the 'grobves'23, of-the pins 2|. v The pins22 are like pins 2| except that their active ends are out off 'to a predetermined extentand are inclined or bentias described. Thus'it will be seen that pins 22 can be made at little or no extra'cost. v 5 7 'The fabric 21; Figs. 2 "and-3, is empaled on pins 2I to an extent defined by the arc formed by the pinends 2,5 of the pins 22. Between the pins 2| thefabric will hang or it will lie across the ends 25" of thepins '22. The sew ing-needle I4 is flexible and when stitchingat a stitch position of one of the'pins 22, because of the deflection of thepin22 and its groove 23; willbe. guided upwards away from the fabric. The deflection of the pins 22 therefore needs notbe extensive. To insure the best results the deflection-of 22 is great 'enough'to bring the bottomofthe groove 23' above the fabric as seen in Fig; 2, but this isnot necessary. I I I "'The'invention as sofar'described is concerned with method and means forproducing stitching characterized by only predetermined stitches be- 'ing sewed to the fabric; It has been presumed.

that the machine isequipped with the normal I small chaining finger I3, as shown-in Fig. 8. A machine so equipped will produce afinegauge However, it is sometimes 'desired for particular purposesthat the stitching be' loose andopen. Although thefiner gaugefstitch is inherently ornamentalfby widening and loosening the stitch the ornamental character thereof is enhanced.

stitch which is good for some classes of work. I u 7 For this purpose I can use a chaining fingerflg whi'ch is unusually large. For example, I can substitute, "on a. fine gauge machine," a'.chain-' ing finger I3' of a coarse gauge-machine. 9

shows such acoarse gauge chaining finger that I can-be used formy purpose on a fine gaugefmachine. The chaining finger 'l3 has ashank ele* ment 4 I which is the same as and functions like] theshank element 4| of the fine gauge chaining finger l3.- This shank elementiis mounted inthe standard 42, as will be. clear from Fig. 1. The

active end43', of the coarse gaugefinger differs from end 43 of the finger I3 in that .it has a greater circumference. The stitch is formed around the linger in theusual way. An' interloop is formed at each end of the needle traverse and f as -the needle and "looping finger return from interloop formationat one end to positions at the other end of theirstrokes' to form'another interloop, the previously formed :interloo'p 'isdrawn tight against the surface of the active end-of. the

chaining yfinger. conventionally this active end is fine-as seen at .43 in Fig. 8. and ifpositioned close to the surfaceof the fabric being sewed, presents substantially no'='surface for stitches .to

be drawn against, and adds practically no she to. the stitch so that the. same will be. loose when completed. ,With this inview .the fingers are calculated. to'be ofalargejsize with reference. to

the particular gauge ofthe machine ,used. When an abnormally, large finger isused in the machine andis positioned away'fronr thefabric. being sewed the stitch formed .around it will not be drawn close to the fabric and. will be loose and wider As willbe seen from Fig. 1 and from the Davis patent above referred to,.as' new stitches are being formed, previously formed stitches will .slide oifthe freeend of. the finger.

The abnormally large round" chaining finger describedwill produce stitches the concatenations of which find positions within the stitch depend ing ,upon where they happenedto fall on the round "surfaceofj the chaining finger. There is likely to be a lack of. uniformity in thepositioning of the interloops orv concatenations in successivestitches. 1 Thisis satisfactory for certain types ofv work resulting for example in a product that simulates, hand work. When it isidesired to produce stitches that'are uniform I use the chaining finger shown in -Fig. 1 0. This finger [3 has a shank end 4;l.','similar to and ,functioningas the shanks 4| and 4!, tomount. the finger in the standard ,42..;."I'he finger 13 has an active end' 43"si1nilar to't3fand 43'. However, the end 43. is wideand thin as will be seen from Figs. 2, 7 'and 10. At each side of the'end 43 towardsthe respective ends of'the needlejtravel thereis an edge M. After the needle andthe looping finger have cooperatedto form aninterloop and the needle, passing below thelch'aining fingerfand .the looping finger, passing above: the chaining fingenmovetoward the other end of'their strokes,

the concatenations dfi willfind their way to the edge 4:3 and willbeiarrested thereby. inspite of the respective tensions on thelooping finger and needle threads tending to pull the concatenation I around the chainingfinger duringthe formation o'fthe next-interloop .at the other end of the needle and looping finger stroke. -The manner in which the edges lit engage and hold the, concatenaticns 45 is best'illustrated in Figs. Band "7.

The edges 44 eifectively'hold the concatenations until .a stitch is, set and finished and falls off the ,endii-i after the usual and previously described looping machine, can be produced wide .and loose for joining fabric'sections orforother purposes,

.without incorporating thereinthe characteristic of intermittent chaining'stitches which a'renot sewed to the fabric.

Such a stitch is neat and ornamental and has properties not heretofore attained andiszapplicable to certain types of work. In Figs. 11 and 12, however, I' show two-of the novel stitch characteristics of my invention incorporated. together: As previously. described the sewing is characterized by certain stitches only penetrating the fabric ,This stitch has been made with the wide chaining'finger l3" shown .in

Fig. .10. to hold the concatenations in definite Iclaim:

1; Ina sewing machine, a stitch forming mechanism including a sewing element engageable A stitch, for example a douposition and to insure that :an equal amount of the respective sewing threadskis contributed to eachstitch. As the fabric is taken from the machine and is put to use there is the relocation of the threads of the stitches and a reformation 2 which causes the merging of unsewed chaining stitcheswith adjacent sewed stitches to give the result shown in Figs. 11 and 12. In my copending application, Serial No..595,349, filedFebruary 26,

1932, I disclose this stitch as used for making stockings that can be shortened. As will be seen from thatapplication I make turned welts constituting the fabric sections 3i and 32, and join them 'togetherwithmy. novel stitch. In the fabric I may produceopenings, as for example are shown at 35 and 36 which facilitate empaling the fabric on the looper dial. .Although I show these openings as transferreclknitted loops they need not be provided or can be produced in other ways to fit the needs of the particular fabric being sewed. Although I show my invention as applied to the joiningv of turned knittedwelts, my invention can be used on other than knitted fabrics and can be used for. joining other than two plyfabric or can be used for other purposes'than joining fabric. Figs. 11 and 12 show a specific use for the invention and are-not to be construed as limiting the invention. As will be seenin my copending ap plication, Serial 'No. 610,226, filed May 9, 1932, the stitch characteristics herein described, can be resorted to separately or together to produce a wide variet3 of stitch structures tobe used in a number of different ways in fabric. The ornamental effect may be enhanced by-using threads of different color in producing the stitches.

Although I have described. my, invention as carried out one. particular kind-of sewing machine that merely constitutes one embodiment and the invention is of broader scope.

with afabric in its normal path of operation together with means to deflect, the element out of its normal path to cause the element to sew predetermined recurrent stitches out of engagement carrying a series of needle-deflecting projections arranged in spaced relation-to each other and adapted to be-brought successively during forma tion of recurrent stitches into-operative engagement withthe sewing element.

with the fabric, saidmeans including a support 2.'; In a sewing, machine, a stitch formingmechi anism including a sewing needle, means for-adjvancing; the fabric past the operating. path of the sewing needle and shielding means movable with the fabricpresenting a series of, spaced needle-engaging surfacesand operable to defiectthe needle out of its normal-operating path during .theformation of recurrent spaced stitches.

- 3. In a sewing lIlfiCllillGghfifiiliCh forming mechanism including a sewing element, '-a movable support for advancing the fabric to be sewed past the operating path of the sewing element, and means carried by and movable with said fabric support;intermittently operative to deflect the.

sewing elementout of its normal operating path.

4. In a sewing machine, a stitch forming mech- 1 anism including a sewing element, means supporting element and fabric during the formation of other "intermittent stitches.

5. In a sewing machine, a stitch forming mechanism including asewing. element,'a support for a fabric presenting anedge of the fabric to be sewed by said sewing element, andmeans for interposing between the edge' of the fabric and the sewing" with the stitch forming mechanism for preventing engagement with the fabric of the stitchform+ ing mechanism. during the formation of prede termined intermediate stitches.

7. In a sewing machine,- a'stitch forming meche anism including a sewing element anda fabric feed mechanism operative insynchronism, the feed mechanism including means for presenting the fabric to thestitchforming mechanism during the formation of predetermined stitches and also including means engageable' with and adapted to deflect the sewing elementforwithholding the stitch forming mechanism from the fabric anism including a sewing element and a fabric feed mechanism operative in-synchronism, the

feed mechanism including means forpresenting the fabric to the stitch forming mechanismduring the formation of alternate stitches, and means interposing betweenthe sewing element and the fabric during the formation of. the remaining stitches. I V

9. In a sewing machine, stitch forming mechanism and fabric feed mechanism movable relative to each other, stations onthe'feed mechanism positionable opposite the stitch forming mechanism progressively in time with the formation of successive stitches, means on the feed mechanism at predetermined stations for presenting the fabric to the stitch forming mechanism in their respective turns, and means at other stations of the. feed mechanism to preventengagement of the fabric by the .stitchformingmechanism. V I

10. Ina sewing machine, stitch forming mechanism and fabric feed mechanism movable relative to each other, a sewing needle on the stitch forming mechanism,-spaced apart stations on the feed mechanism positionable opposite the stitch forming mechanism progressively in time with the formation of successive stitches, pins at predetermined stations for presenting the fabric-{to the stitch forming mechanism andguiding the needle to the fabric sc presented, and guide pins at other stations to guidef theneedle away from the fabric. I 1-1. In a sewingmachine, a stitch forming.

mechanism and a fabric-feedimechanism timedin synchronism, the .feed' mechanism 1 including means for presenting the rename the stitch forming mechanism during the formation of pre determined stitches and means for withholding the fabric from the stitch. forming mechanism during the formation of other predetermined stitches, the fabric presenting means 'comprisinga plurality ofpi'ns nanny/ aced apart, fabric withholding pins intermediate thepresenti-ng pins tw la erally fr m e sti eee i 'mi e presenting pins, a pin carrierforhold g the. pins in spaced relationship; and positioning them the path of' the stitch forming" mechanism progressivelyf during the formation of {successive st tche an over'edge sewing "machine, stitch forming mechanismand fabric feed mechanism timed in synchronism, spaced stations on the feed mechanism positionable opposite the stitch forming. mechanism progressively intime with the formation. of successive stitches; fabric. empaling pins at predetermined stations adapted to present an edge ofthe-fabric to the stitch form-;'

the empaling pins and guide the stitch forming mechanism away from the fabric..

13. In an overedge sewing machine,

. stitch forming mechanism including a sewing element and fabric feed mechanism timed in synchronism, means on the fabric feed mechanism to present the edge of fabric to be sewed to .the' stitch forming mechanism, and pins 011113118 feed mechanism at .selectedintervals coactive with the sewing element projecting in a direction but 'of line with the fabric presenting means so as to fabric feed mechanism comprising a dial, pins radiating fromtheperiphery of the dial inspaced relationship, certain pins terminating ins-a. point to receive fabric empaled thereon .to be presented to the; stitch f orming mechanism duringthe. ;for-

mation of predetermined stitches, other pins with blunt jends forwithholding the fabric from the stitch forming mechanism during the formation of other predetermined stitches. 1 Y a 15. In an overedge sewing machine stitch' forming mechanism, fabric feed mechanism rotatable intime with the stitch forming operation, means associated with the fabric. feed --:mechanism to present a fabric edge to the stitch forming mechanism during :the formation ofrrpredetermined .stitches, and further means to deflect the stitch-formingrmechanism away from the fabric during formation of other stitches. .l fl

16. In an'overedge sewing machine, stitch'formw 45 ing mechanism including a sewingfelemenh-fabric feed "mechanisml rotatable in: time;with theg" stitch forming operation, meansfoperating with the fabric feed mechanism to presenta fabric edge to the stitchforming'mechanism during'the' formation of predetermined stitches and means engageable with the 'surface of 'the"sewing-Lela v ment to withhold the stitch'forming mechanism operating I with the fabric.- feed mechanism to .,present a fabric edge to the stitch formirigvmechanism during the formation of predetermined stitches and means. on thelfabric feed mechanism to deflect the stitchforming mechanism away predetermined stitches.

- 18. In a looping machine, stitch'forming mechanism and: fabric feed mechanism movable relative to each other, the stitch forming mechanism including a sewing element, stitch forming staztionson the feed mechanism adapted'tobe-positioned in proximity to the stitch'forming mechanism by the relative -motion' progressively Y in time with successive stitch'forming operations, a series of pins coactive' with the sewingelement and including fabric empalin'g pins at predetermined stations collectively describing a plane and from the edge duringjtheformationsor. other pins'coactive with the sewing element at other positions deflected out of the-plane so as to pro 'vide a different path of movement for the sew ing means when coacting with said pins.

19; In a loopingmachine, stitch forming mechanism'and a fabricfeeding dial rotatable relative to each other, sewing means on the stitch forming mechanism, stitch forming stations on the fabric feeding dial positionableopposite'the stitch forming mechanism-progressively in time with successive stitch forming operations by the relative rotation, peripherallyprojecting' pins at predetermined stations forempaling the fabric'and presenting 'the same to the'sewing means, the pins describing a plane, peripherally projecting pins at other stations coactive with the sewing means deflected out of the-plane so as to provide a different, path ofmovernent for the sewing means when coacting -with said pins.

.20. In/a looping machine,'- stitch forming mechanism -and'afabric feeding dial rotatable relative to each other, a sewing needle on the stitch forming :mechanismQstitch forming stations on the fabric feeding dial positionable opposite the stitch forming mechanism progrese sivelyin time with'su'ccessive stitch forming op erations by' the relative rotation, peripherally *projectingpins atpredetermined stations for 'with said pins. V

V 21. Fabric feeding mechanism fora sewing machine comprising a fabric support element, spaced apartsta'tions of stitch formation on the fabricsupport'. element, means at predetermined stations for presenting the'fabric to the stitch formingmechanism, and means at other stations to interpose between the fabric and'stitch.

forming mechanism.

w. 22.: Fabric feeding mechanism for a sewing machine comprising a fabric support element,

spaced apart stitch'st'ations on the fabric-support .element,'meansat predeterminedstatio'ns .for'presenting the fabric to. stitch forming mechanism; means at other stations to. interpose between the fabric andstitch forming mechanism, said twotypes of means being arranged in alternate relationship."

chine'comprising a fabric support element, spaced apart stations of stitch formation on the fabric support element, fabric empaling pins. at predetermined stations for presenting the fabric to stitch forming mechanism and pins at other .stations to'ri'nterpose between. the fabric and-stitch forming'mechanism.

on the dial, and pins attother stations for withholding the fabric from stitch forming mecha:-'

nism.

25. Fabric feed mechanism, for a looping machineycomprising a rotatable supporting dial,

circumferentially, spaced stitchstations on the .diaLaligned fabric'empaling pins at predetermined stitch stations, projecting pins at other stationsdeflected in a common direction out of alignmentwiththe other pins. g i

'" 'ZGi-"Fabric "feedingmechanism for a looping machine comprising a i rotatable fabric supporte ing'dial; circumferentially spaced stitch stations on thedial; pins at predetermined stations projecting to a predeterminedextent for empaling the'fabric thereon and describing a plane, pins at otherstations projecting to a lesser extent and-deflected out of the plane of the empaling pins;'

27'. Fabric feedingsmechanisingfor a looping machinecompri'sing'a rotatable fabric support; ing dial;circumferentially spaced stitch stations on the dial, fabric engaging'pins at predetermined stations, tapered ends 'on said pins to facilitate" empaling thefabric thereon, pins at ing f dial, circumferentially spaced stitch. stations {on thedial,' pins "at predetermined stations projectingto a predetermined extent for empaling the fabric thereon, pins atother stations'projecting to aless'rextent adapted to bear against 'thefab'ric and determine the position the fabric "occupies on the-empaling pins." 29."Fabric feeding mechanism for looping machine comprising a rotatable fabric supporting dia1','"circumferentially spaced stitch stations on the dial; pins at predeterminedstations projecting peripherally to 'apredetermined ex- 7 tent, tapered endson'the pins to facilitate empaling fabric thereon, pins atothe'r stations pro- '30. Fabric feed mechanism fora'looping machine comprising a rotatable fabric supporting dial, circumferentially spaced stitch stations on the dial; peripheralh projecting pins at predetermined stitch stations describing a plane, tapered ends on said pins to facilitate empaling the fabric thereon, peripherally projecting pins at, other stitch stations deflected in the same direction out of the plane of the fabric empaling pins, blunt ends on said deflected pins'to prevent fabric from being empaled thereon. M31. Fabric feeding, mechanism for a'looping machine comprising a rotatable fabric support- 23. Fabric feed mech-amsmm. .a sewing ma i'nvgdial! "cilwnflerentmuy spaced Stitch stations 'on. the dial; pins at predeterminedstitch stations (projecting peripherally to a predetermined extent'a'nd collectivelydescribing' a plane, tapered ends on said pins to facilitateempaling the fabric thereon, pins at f other stitch stations projecting peripherallymto va less r extent than the first mentioned ,pins'a'nd deflected in a common'direction from theplane of the other pins, blunt ends on said. shorter pins, whereby the shorter pins prevent fabric from'being empaled thereon,

determine the position of the fabric on the first mentionedpins .and withhold the fabric fro stitch forming mechanisml' i I I 3 2.;"A looper dial pincomprisin'g,' a shank por tion formounting thepinin a dialand an active end-to project fromthe dial,,said active end being blunt and adapted to prevent the pin from penetratingafabric tobe looped. 1

33. A looper dial pin comprising a shankporl tion for mountingthe pin in a dial and an active end to project from the dial, 'a groove longitudinally of the mel s inac ve enim portion to project fromthe dial, said active portion having a blunt end, a groove longitudinally.

of the pin along the active portion and a defiec-.

tion in the active portion towards the side which has the groove.

35. In .a sewing machine, fabric feeding means, stitch forming mechanism including a threaded needle, mechanism for operating the needle to pass back and forth through the fabric transversely to the direction of fabric feed, the stitch forming mechanism including also a threaded interlooper, means to operate the interlooper in synchronism with the needle to position it at each end of the needle travel to interloop the interlooper thread with the needle thread, a chaining finger directed longitudinally of the fabric feed, the chaining finger having a fiat broad outer end and the stitch formation position to" said end in the direction of the fabric feed having a stitchwise or lateral dimension greater than its vertical dimension and being so positioned relative to the fabric that the concatenations of the interlooped threads are held spaced apart at reconcatenations on each side of the fabric, means to operate the needle, interlooper, and fabric feed mechanism in synchronism, and a flattened chaining finger extending along the fabric empaling pins having spaced apart lateral edges overlying said pins and lying beyond the opposite sides of the fabric empaled on the pins and also having a broad outerend substantially wider than the thickness of the fabric to be sewed, said chaining finger having a fixed position relative to the stitch forming mechanism and adapted to be encompassed in the stitches formed thereby so that the edges of the finger will hold the stitches open and prevent the stitches from being drawn down against the fabric.

37?. In a sewing machine, fabric supporting means, double chain stitch forming mechanism, the fabric supporting means including means for presenting the fabric to the stitch forming mechanism during formation of predetermined stitches and means to interpose between the fabric and stitch forming mechanism during formation of other stitches, and means for holding the concatenations of all of the stitches extended and away from the fabric until completed.

' 38. In a sewing machine, fabric supporting present the fabric to the stitch forming mechanism during formation, of predetermined intermittent stitches and means to deflect the stitch p .7 means, double chain stitchforming mechanism, the fabric supporting means including means to forming mechanism away from the fabric dur-j' ing formation of other stitches, and means for holding all of the stitches extended and away.

from the fabric during formation.

39. In a sewing machine, fabric supporting means, double chain stitch forming mechanism,

the fabric supporting means including means to v stitches in spaced relation to the fabric and holding them in such extended position until completed.-

40. In a sewing machine, stitch forming mechanism, including a threaded needle, mechanism for operating the needle to pass back and forth j 7 through the fabric transversely to its direction of feed, the stitch forming mechanism including also a threaded interlooper, means tooperate the interlooper in synchronism with the needle to positionsat each end 'ofthe needle travel to interloop the interlooper thread andthe needle' thread, a chaining finger directed longitudinally 'mechanism including means for presenting the fabric to the stitch forming mechanism during the formation of only predetermined intermittent stitches, and meansengageable with and deflecting the needle away from the fabric during formation of the other stitches.

41. The method of disposing fabric on a looper dial having a series of pins coactive with the needle of the looper which comprises empaling the fabric on only certain of the dial pins and leaving other pinsintermediate the first mentioned pins free from engagement with the fabric. 42. The method of sewing fabric on a looping machine having a series of pins cooperative with the sewingneedle of: the machine which comprises applying the fabricto only designated intermittent of the pins and disposing the portions of the fabric opposite the remaining pins so as notto beiengaged by the sewing needlewhen coacting with the latter pins, and causing the machine to operate to produce a stitch at s each successive pin.

JACOB A. GOODMAN,

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