US1998041A - Fabric - Google Patents

Description

H. BARBET FABRIC April 16, 1935.

2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed April 22, 1933 H. BARBET April 16, 1935.

FABRIC Filed April 22,

1953, 2 sheets-sheet 2 INVENTOR f/g/ve/ 502557.

ATTORNEY v Patented Apr. 16, 1935 EABRIG:

Henri Barbet, 'Scarsdale', N. Y., assignor to Albert Godde, Berlin, me, NewY'ork, N. Y.,' acorporation of New York Application Apr-H122, 1933,.Serialfio, comm. -(01. 139 -3 4 The present invention relates to anew and improved fabric and it particularly relates to afabric with a pleated or tucked effect formed simultaneously with the fabric as an'i'ntegral part thereof.

. 5 In the past, when forming pl'eated or tucked effects, the fabric was first woven onformed in flat" condition and then by a subsequent sewing operationby-hand or with a special machine, the tucks'or pleats were formed. Tucks or pleats formedjby these additional operations by folding. or' gathering up of" the woven or other fabric usually are n'ot regular, are at unequal distances, do not closely conform to the straight of the material, and do not lay satisfactorily, but tend to givean undulatory appearance, necessitating pressing and other flattening operations so that the fabric will have a satisfactory appearance; Moreover, the fabric or garment made of it, tends to become: ruffled and mussed easily and it-mustbe frequently pressed and again finished.

' Even when the fabrics are most carefully v pressed and finished; they tend to' bulge: or undulate even after slight usage, The thread or'extra binding which must be utilized to give the tucked or pleated effect. detracts from the artistic aptpearance of the fabric, and, moreover, tends to give it a seamed efiect.

r The object. of this invention is to provide a fabric and process for making the same, in which the pleat or tuck is formed. integrally with the fabricv itself, preferably during, the weaving operation which fabric will have a superior pleated or tucked effect, will be more dressy in appear'- ance and will not tend to readily crumple or fall out of shape during usage, p v Y Another object is to provide a pleated or tucked.

, fabric of altogether new'appearance which will be subjected toany longitudinal stretch. To: overcome this, attempts were made.- to provide double.

,; fabrics or rnulthale ply fabrics, one of which fabrics would not be pl'eated'but would. act" as av sort of a reinforcement to hold the pleat together; The utilization of multiple ply fabrics of this character notonly resulted in an unsatisfactory appearance, butin addition would not satisfac torilyprevent the drawing or pulling out of the pleats or tucks. I

A feature in the present invention resides in the construction of a pleat or tuck woven integrally into the fabric in such a manner that the pleat wi1- l;retainits shape and will not. tend, to separate. -Although the weave may be constructed; in. many" different fashions. in combina-- tion with' the: pleat: it has been. found particularly. satisfactory in assuringpermanency of the-pleat in causingclosing: off the pleat adiacent its base" toprovide three: Gros; do: bindings or" double. groups or pairs. of. filler er -pick 7 threads enclosed formed; by the threada.

this, way, assurance is had that the.- pleatg-wi-ll closeat its; base and will not, haven-tendency to; openduring; and after the-wearing process.

Although the objects of the; present invention may; be attained. in. various wa S,,,0ne method which has been found satisfactow is to provide two warpsto be incorporatedin the single pleated or. tucked fabric, one, warp alone. being utilized when the pleats or tucks are being formed. and; both warpstogetherbeing combined when the base or. background isbeing. formed fiormingthe fabric-in this fashion; the pleat elements will have a. lesser density in warp threads than willv the fabric intervening between the. pleats or the back round; as it may betermed, whilethebasebetween the. pleatsfor their termi nal edges will be-ioined together by the remainder of thawarp; threads, reinforced pleated or tucked construction: oii greatly improved: charer'a fien o edr r ns .o ii s-.-t

The above and other objects will appear more. clearly from; the following detailed description, when taken connection with theaccompany- 'ingdrawings,, which illustrate'one, embodiment of the h ventive idear j h esr. v. I Fig. 1 .i-s a diagrammatic bottom view of a-fraga mentary portion of.- the.new fabric-according to l the present invention Fig.v 2 is, a diagrannnaticside sectional view of the-fragmentary portion of the fabricil-lustrating, the construction thereon 3 is-a diagrammaticside view illustrating the weaving operation when-the pleat is being formedjand 1 g V Fig, 4 is a; diagrammatic viewillustrating the weaving operation when; the-background or base between the pleats is being formed. l i

As illustrated m gs. 3 and 4.3 the completed fabric in with the pleats or tucks H integrally woven thereinto is wounduponthe chum l2. The

shuttle (notshown) earrying the. picks, end, filler" As diagrammatically illustrated, the heddles I6 carry the base or background warp while the heddles I! carry the pleating warp. A large number of these heddles, of-course, will'be utilized, corresponding to the entire width of the warp.

As illustrated, in Fig. 3, when the pleat is being so that the shuttle (not shown) will carry the woof or pick thread only through the pleating warp I8. The background warp I9 maybe positioned below the pleating warp I8 during weaving, or it may otherwise be removed-from the weavingsired intervals so that the pleat will be woven for a desirable number of picks. By these attachments, it ispbssible'to regulate the width and depthof the pleat. After such release, the two warps may be caused to work together 'to form the ground betweenthe spaced pleats or tucks. A similar effect may also be obtained by releasing the front roller after the weaving of the pleat. Y s

It is, of course, to be understood that difierent types of threads may be utilized for the pleating warp I 8 and for the background warp I9 and also for the pleating pick threads and for the back:-

ground pick threads 26, (Fig. 2). i

It is evident, therefore, that the mostnovel and pleated effects may be obtained, in which,

although the pleat is a'unitary part of the fabric, it has a novel and distinctive appearance and has a distinct decorative effect, as applied to the fabric, in addition to the usual pleated and tucked appearance. i I

The fabric as formed is best shown upon Figs. 1 and 2. In Figs. 1 and '2 the pleating warp threads I8 and the ground warp threads I9 are shown woven together to form the ground portions I0 and the pleats II. The pickthreads for the pleat are indicated at 25, while the pick threads for the ground are indicated at 26.

It will be noted in Fig. 2 that the ground warp threads 19 extend across the base of the pleat I I and reinforce the same, while the pleat forming warp threads I8 extend around the pleat II, as a result of which greater length of the pleating warp is utilized than of the ground warp. The pick threads 25 in the pleat II may be of the same construction as the pick threads 26 in the ground, ordifferent types of threads may be utilized. 1 y

The pleats formed are regular, are of equal space and are rigorously held upon the straight of the material. The necessity forextra pleating or tucking operations either by hand or by a special machine are altogether eliminated. A seaming or sewing thread appearance is altogether absent and a very even crosswise pleated effect is attained. The fabric will lay fiat and will not undulate or become misshapen like a material pleated after weaving.

Moreover, the pleat will be closed at its base and will not have a tendency to open during and after the weaving process. The weaving including utilization of three Gros de Tours bindings will prevent shifting of the ground in respect to theweave. formed the heddles I6 do not operate, but the I heddles I! operate on the pleating warp threads I8 1 What is claimed is:

1. A pleated or tucked fabric in which the pleats or tucks have been woven integrally in the fabric, said pleat or tuck being so woven as to assure perfect closing and shifting, and the filling threads of the ground on either side of said pleat or tuck being held in a double binding in which the warp threads cross outside of the two end filling threads and in which'there is no crossing of warp threads betweensaid filling threads, whereby said filling threads will be drawn together upon longitudinal stress of the fabric.

2. A pleated or tucked fabric in which the pleats have been integrally woven into the fabric, two warps being utilized, both being woven in the fabric between the pleats and only one beingwoven into the pleated portions of the fabric, the base of said pleat being provided with three Gros deTours bindings, one of said'bindings receiving the last threads of the ground on either side of said pleat or tuck, and the other two of said, bindings respectively receiving the lowermost filling thread of the pleat or tuck and the last filling thread of the ground, said bindings each enclosing two filler threads in such a manner that the warp threads .cross outside of said filler threads and so that said filler threads are not separated by crossing warp threads, whereby said filling threads will be drawn together upon longitudinal stress of the fabric;

3. A pleated or tucked fabric in which the pleats or tucks are woven integrally into the fab ric during formation, said fabric including two warps, both of which are woven into the ground or base between the pleats, one of which is woven into the pleat and the other of which extends between the edges of the pleat to reinforce the same, the last filling threads of the ground on either side of said pleat or tuck being contained in a single double binding extending across the base of the pleat or tuck, the warp threads being only crossed outside of said last ground filling threads and there being no crossing warp threads between said filling threads, whereby said filling threads will be drawn together upon longitudinal stress of the fabric.

4. A process of forming integrally pleated or tucked fabrics which comprises providing two warps, one for the pleated and ground effect and an additional warp solely for the ground effect, weaving the first-mentioned Warp to form the pleat and then weaving the second warp together with the first-mentioned warp to form the ground, the last filling threads of the ground on either side of said pleat or tuck being contained in a

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