US1994956A - Garment manufacture - Google Patents

Description

March 19, 1935. A. LHTTLE GARMENT MANUFACTURE Filed Sept. 7,' 1954 Ill EIL 73 2220721802 flABEP? L/7'7Z. E

Patented Mar. 19, 1935 UNITED. STATES PATENT OFF E GARMENT MANUFACTURE Albert Little, Watertown, Mass. 7 Application September 7, 1934, Serial No. 743,079v

7 Claims.

1 out such seams in fitting the garment to the customer or wearer.

' Heretofore, the side seams of'mens vests have commonly been inaccessibly concealed by the lining so that it is necessary to openthe lining (usually by ripping out the neck seams), turn the-vest inside out, open the then exposed side seams, restitch the seam at its proper location, turn the waistcoat right side out, and fell the opening byhand, in order to adjust the size of the garment to the individual. These operations are laborious, time-consumingand expensive; and the present invention provides an improved mode of side-seaming which eliminates many of the aforesaid operations 1 and consequently simplifies and reduces the costof adjusting the size or fit of the garment, without detracting from its utility, appearance or fitting qualities.

' The specific features and additional advantages of the improved method and construction will be apparent from the following description of a recommended embodiment of this invention, as illustrated in the accompanying drawing, in which:'

Fig. lis a composite plan view of the three es- T sential parts or sections utilized in producing onehalf of a vest fashioned in accordance with this invention; Y

Fig. 2 is a similar view showing the three parts assembled and connected together, the front of the vest being folded over onto the back; a r

Fig. 3 is an enlarged section taken on line 3-3 of Fig. 2; i

Fig. 4 is a view ther step in the stitching of the garment;

Fig. 5 is an inside view of the finished vest; partly broken away;

Fig. 6 is an'enlarged section taken on line 6-6 of Fig. 5 and Fig. 7 is a detailed view of the improved side seams, illustrating one mode of adjusting the size similar to Fig; 2 showing a air-- pared for assembling in accordance with common practice. It will be understood that complemental duplicates of the sections 11 and 12, as shown in Fig. 1, are prepared for assembling the other half of the vest; and that the two back pieces are connected in the usual manner to complete the. finished garment, as indicated in Fig. 5, the respective halves being substantially identical in construction. i I

In accordance with the present invention, I provide an additional or auxiliary piece of material 13, preferably of the same texture and appearance as the back section 12 and front lining 14, which is joined tothe connected edges of the front and back sections andultimately forms a pocket or envelope which covers the side seam but allows free access thereto'fcr the purpose of adjusting the width or circumference of'the vest. The utilization of the same type of lining material for the front linings, back sections and side pieces, presents a distinct andharmonious appearance throughout the inside of the vest, and enhances the attractiveness and desirability of this preferred mode of styling, which has become known as fSuper Harmony Trim.

In Fig. 1,the front section 11 has been lined, hemmed and finished in the customary way, and the back 12 is hemmed at the outer edge 15 and at the armholelfi. The envelope or side piece 13 is of rectangular shape, relatively narrow and substantially longer than the unfinished, complemental edge 'l'l'of the front section and slightly longer than the complementalmargin 18 of the back section. One margin of piece 13 is hemmed at 19, the opposite edge 20 being unfinished;

To assemble these three garment pieces, the front and back sections are preferably superposed with the outer surfaces faceto face, and the side piece 13 is laid upon the lined side -'of the front 11, so that the unfinished edges are substantially in registration (Figs. 2 and 3). These margins are then stitched together along the seam 21, remote from the extreme edges thereof,the stitching passing throughthe piece 13, front lining 14, front outer fabric 11 and backsection 12. At this stage the ends of theside piece are free and project beyond the corresponding edges of thefront section.

In the next operatiomthe free ends of auxiliary piece 13 are stitched to the adjacentmarg'ins of the back section 12 by seams 22 and 23 '(Fig. 4) at the top and bottom thereof, respectively but these seams do not engage the lined front 11. The rough edges 17, 18 and 20 are then finishedbythe overcasted stitches or-serging 24, and the overcasting is carried around the corners and along the ends of the piece 13 and the adjacent margins of the back piece 12, as shown at 25 and 26. The assembly is now completed, and the pocket thus formed by the side piece or flap 13 is turned right side out by opening the front and back sections to the position shown in Figs. 5 and 6, the pocket being indicated at 2'7 and extending from the armhole to the bottom edge of the vest, on the inside of the garment. The finished halfvest is then attached to its complemental half (having a pocket similar to 27) and the garment is pressed and ready for fitting or wear.

If the fitting indicates that the side seams should be taken in or let out, in order to reduce or enlarge the width or circumference of the garment, one or both pockets 27 are turned inside out to expose the seam 21, as shown in Figs. 4 or '7. In the latter view, a new seam 28 has been stitched inside the former seam, thereby to decrease the effective width of the vest (by twice the distance between the two seams), andthe old seam 21 may remain in place or be ripped out if preferred. It will be apparent that the garment may be let out by stitching the new seamoutside of the old, in which event the old seam must be removed; and; it will alsobe evident that the new seam may extend at an angle to the old, as well as parallel to it, as circumstances may require. In any case, the relative position of the garment pieces will be preserved by the original seam until the new and'correct seam is finished. The pocket is then reversed by restoring the vest tothe position shown in Fig. 5, the parts are pressed, and the vest is properly fitted to the wearer,

It will be observed that this adjustment is accomplished without opening the front lining or disturbing any finished partof the garment (except the old side seam, when necessary), for the side seams are always readily accessible by merely opening the pocket 2'7 or turning it inside out as above explained. Nevertheless, these seams are hiddenfrom, view by the overlying flap 13 when the garment is finished, and this side piece provides asmooth and neat covering for the overcast edges 24, 25and 26. I

It will also beappreciated that a garment constructed as above described may be adjusted to proper size with: less time and effort, and consequently at less expense than the old, inaccessibly seamed vests; and that the workinvolved in making. such adjustments is not only simplified but also improved by providing my improved side seams and pockets.

The various features of my invention are set forth in the following claims, and it will be understood thatthe structural'details of the-particular garment herein illustrated and described may be varied as desired without departing from the spirit of this invention.

l. A waistcoat comprising a front section and a back section having their complemental margins stitched together with their edges substantially in registration, thereby to provide a connecting seam remote from said edges, andla side 5 piece secured along one of its margins to said sectionsadjacent said seam and constituting a flap overlyinglsaid stitched margins in normal position, said flap being stitched at its upper and lower ends to said back section, and having an edge substantially parallel to said seam and free fromv said back section, thereby .to provide a pocket affording access to said seam for the purpose of adjusting the width of the vest.

2. A method of making a waistcoat which consists in superposing a front section upon a back section with their outer surfaces face to face, placing a side piece on the front section so that the complemental margins of the three parts are substantially in registration, stitching a seam along said superposed margins remote from the edges thereof, thereby to provide a sideseam of the waistcoat, stitching the respective ends of the side piece to the back piece, to form a pocket, and turning said pocket right side out so that the side piece hides said seam and said margins.

-3. Inthe method of constructing a vest, the

steps which include assembling separate front and'back sections with their outer surfaces face to face, placing a separate side piece upon the inner surface of the front section so that the unfinished edges of the three pieces are in substantial registration, stitching a main seam to join the three pieces-remote from-the unfinished edges thereof, then'stitching seams transverseto the main seam to join'the free ends of theside piece to the back section, and to form a pocket between the side piece and the back section, stitching and finishing the rough edges of the front and back sections and the side piece sub: stantially parallel to the main seam and finishing the rough edges of the side piece and the back section substantially parallel to the-transverse seams, then turning said pocket inside out to conceal said seams and said finished edges within the reversed pocket. 4.1m the method of making a vest, the steps which include superposing a. lined front section and back section with their outer surfaces face to face and laying a separate side piece upon the lined surface of thefront so. that: the; unfinished edges of the sections and separate piece are insubstantial registration, stitching a main seam to join the several plies of superposed material remote from the unfinished edges thereof, then stitching seams transverse to the first seam through the two pliesof material constituting the side piece and, back section and positioned beyond and free of the upper and lower edges of the lined front section whereby a pocket is formed between said side piece and the back section, then finishing the rough edges by over-H cast stitches carried around the corners and along the ends of the side piece substantially parallel to the first-mentioned seams, then turning said pocket inside out to conceal said seams and finished edges within the reversed pocket.

5. A'vest comprising a front section, a back section and a side piece, said sections and piece being stitched together at theirmarginal edges with the front section intermediate the back section and side piece, a main seam joining said sections and piece remote from the. stitched edges for fixing the size of the vest said side piece being further secured at its upper and lower ends to the back section, only, thereby forming a pocket defined by said securedends and main seam, said back section being turned at said seam to concealthe same on one side of the vest, and said side piece forming: aflap turned at said seamto conceal the same on the other side of the vest; g

6. A vest comprising a front section, a back section and a side piece, said sections'and piece being stitched together at their marginal edges with the frontsection intermediate the back. section and side piece, a stitched seam joining said sections and piece remote from the stitched edges for fixing the size of the vest, said side piece being stitched at its upper and lower ends to said back section above and below said front section and said back section and side piece being turned at the seam to conceal the stitched edges in the pocket formed between said back section and side piece.

'7. A vest of the class described comprising a lined front section, a back section and a separate side piece, said sections and side piece being joined together at their marginal edges by finished stitching, said finished stitching being carried around the corners of said side piece securing said side piece to said back section only to form a pocket betweensaid side piece and said back section, and a seam joining said sections'and said side piece remote from the finished edges thereof, said seam being accessible by reversing the pocket.

Images