US1922051A - Shoe - Google Patents

Description

, M. LAPlDus Aug. 15, 1933.

SHOE

Filed NOV. 26, 1930 INVENTOR MORRIS mmus ATTORNEY Patented Aug. 15, 1933 SJEMDIE Morris Lapidus, Long Island (City, N. 11., assignor, by mesne assignments, to Charles Miller, lEsm,

Trustee Application November 26, 193d Serial No. 498,213

12 Claims.

This invention relates to the shoe art and deals more specifically with the manufacture of ladies pumps and slippers, hereinafter referred to generically as shoes.

One of the outstanding problems in the manuiacture of ladies shoes is to make the shoe sufiiciently snug fitting to the foot to present a neat, well groomed appearance; whileat the same time avoiding cutting the wearers instep by the top margin of the vamp; and also avoiding cutting the rear of the angle at the heel portion.

One object of the invention resides in making the instep portion of the shoe so that it consists only of two thicknesses of the upper material at the front edge portion of the shoe opening, without lining or stitching at the portion which bears upon the instep of the wearers foot, thus rendering this portion of the shoe sufficiently yielding to give the desired result.

It is a further desideratum of this invention to eliminate, insofar as practical, all stitching and extra thickness of material at the instep portion. I have therefore invented a new method of cutting and applying the lining to the shoe at the forward part, so that there is no lining seam at the instep portion. Under the prior art practice the front lining was provided with a middle seam running from the toe portion to the instep portion. 1 have eliminated this middle seam.

Further objects and the manner in which the present invention is carried out will be more fully understood from the following description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawing, in which:

Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a shoe embodying the present invention, a portion being broken away;

Fig. 2 is a flat blank showing the upper quarters as cut out;

Fig. 3 shows the upper quarters with the vamp attached; and

Fig. i is an inside development of the front and side linings.

Referring in detail to the drawing, the shoe 10 is seen to comprise the usual heel 11,'upper 12, and outsole 13. The upper 12 comprises the quarter portions 15 and 16 having the connecting throat 17. A flap or tongue 18 is cut integrally with the portions 15, 16, and 17. To the upper quarters is sewn the vamp 19 as shown in Fig. 3.

The lining is now prepared having the same contour as the upper. The lining comprises the side linings 21 and 22 of leather to which is stitched the front lining 23 of duck, along the lines 24 and 25. It will be noted that the front lining is of one piece and does not have the usual middle seam. A throat piece 30 is joined to the members 21, 22, and 23 as shown. The throat piece 30 of leather is provided with a slit 31 into which is fitted the edge of the flap 18 after it is folded over as shown in Fig. 1. Said front lining is also provided with a slit in register with the slit 31 in the throat piece 30, and the edge of the flap 18 extends through both slits. between lining may be interposed between the vamp 19 and the front lining 23, but this is not shown because it forms no part of the present invention. A relatively non-yielding binding A middle or tape 40 running from the point 11 to the point 42 tion between the points 41 and 42 except as hereinafter more fully described. The flap 18'of the upper is now folded over along the fold line 18a and the extending edge of the flap 18 is inserted into the slit 31. Looking at the inside of the shoe the flap covers a portion of the throat piece 30 and extends into the slit 31, where it lies between the blanks 19 and 23. Two lines of stitches 31a and 31b are now passed through the 'iiap 18, throat piece 30, and blank 23 immediately along opposite sides of the slit, thus anchoring the flap in the slit and joining it to the lining portion 23. This stitching does not pass through the vamp but merely through the flap 18, said stitching being entirely beneath the upper whereby it cannot be seen when the shoe is worn, and this may be accomplished by folding back the vamp to permit the sewing needle to engage only the blank 23 and flap 18.

The assembled upper and lining are now ready for the lasting operation.

It will thus be seen that the instep portion of the shoe between the fold line 18a and the line of stitching 31a is free of stitches. The edge 31c terminates-in spaced relation to the fold line 18a so that between said edge 31c and fold line 18a the instep portion of the shoe consists merely of the double thickness of the upper material. This provides a yieldable portion of substantial width, which it has been found in practice insures a very proper and snug fit without causing the least discomfort to the wearer's instep. The yieldability provided at this point minimizes the pinching of the wearers foot at the rear ankle portion also. Insofar 'as I am aware, it is broadly new to remove the stitches, which join the upper and lining, from a point immediately adjacent to the fold line 18a to a point 31a a substantial distance to leave an intermediate yieldable instep portion free of stitches, and this together with the other features of the invention represents a substantial advance in this art.

Having thus described my invention, I claim:

1. A low shoe including an upper having an instep portion, and a lining, said upper being folded under said instep portion and stitched to said lining a substantial distance from the line of folding, the folded portion of said upper presenting a smooth bent edge to the top instep portion of the foot and a smooth contact portion extending from the line of fold an appreciable distance toward the toes.

2. A low shoe including an upper having an instep portion, and a lining, said upper being folded under said instep portion and stitched to said lining a substantial distance from the line of folding, whereby to provide a relatively yieldable instep portion, said instep portion between said fold line and said stitching being free of any other stitching, and presenting a smooth bent edge to the top instep portion of the foot and a smooth contact portion extending from the line of fold an appreciable distance toward the toes.

3. A low shoe including an upper having an instep portion, a flap integrally formed on said portion, a lining, said flap being folded under said instep portion and stitched to said lining, said stitching being substantially removed from the fold line of said flap and being entirely beneath the upper whereby it cannot be seen when the shoe is'worn.

4. A low shoe including an upper having an instep portion, a flap joined to said portion, a lining, said flap being folded under and stitched to said lining under said instep portion, said stitching being substantially removed from the fold line of said flap and being entirely beneath the upper whereby it cannot be seen when the shoe is worn.

5. A shoe including an upper having an instep portion, a flap joined to said portion, a lining having a slit, said flap being folded under said instep portion and a portion thereof passed through said slit, and means to hold said flap in said slit.

6. A shoe including an upper having an instep portion, a flap joined to said portion, a lining having a slit, said flap being folded under said instep portion and a portion thereof passed through said slit, and means to hold said flap in said slit, said slit being substantially removed from the fold line of said flap.

'7. A low shoe including an upper having an instep portion, a flap integrally formed on said portion, a lining, said flap being folded entirely under said instep portion and stitched to said lining, said stitching being substantially removed from the fold line of said flap, and a relatively non-yielding binding tape running around the top marginal edge of said upper except at the instep portion.

8. A low shoe including an upper having an instep portion, a flap joined to said portion, a lining having a slit, said flap being folded under and a portion thereof passed through said slit under said instep portion, means to hold said flap in said slit, and a relatively non-yielding binding tape, running around the top marginal edge of said upper except at the instep portion.

9. A pump including an upper provided with an integral tongue, a fabric lining member, an ornamental leather lining member, and a line of stitching for connecting the tongue to said lining members, said tongue when secured in place presenting a smooth bent edge to the top instep portion of the foot and a smooth contact portion extending from said edge an appreciable distance toward the toes.

10. A pump including an upper provided with an integral tongue, a lining member, and a line of stitching for connecting the tongue to said lining member, said tongue when secured in place presenting a smooth bent edge to the top instep portion of the foot and a smooth contact portion extending from said edge an appreciable distance toward the toes.

11. A pump including an upper formed with an integral tongue at the front of the opening thereof, said tongue being bent beneath the upper and positioned to extend toward the toe portion whereby a smooth edge is presented in the front opening of the upper and a comparatively Wide smooth surface adjacent thereto, a lining for said upper, said tongue and lining being stitched together a substantial distance beyond the opening, said stitching being entirely beneath the upper whereby it cannot. be seen when the pump is worn.

12. An article of footwear including an upper and a suitable lining therefor, said upper being provided with an integral tongue bent to underlie the lining and to extend an appreciable distance toward the toe portion, and a line of stitching across the forward end of said tongue connecting the tongue to the lining and holding the tongue in position, said stitching being entirely beneath the upper whereby it cannot be seen when the footwear is worn.

MORRIS LAPIDUS.

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