US1904085A - Shoe and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

April 18,1933. Rlzzo 1,904,085

t SHOE AND KETHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Aug. 9, 1930 III I.

IIIII I ,1

Patented A 1a, 1933 um'rao s'ra'ras mrsnnorrlcE-d NIWYORKLBBI m YORK, A 0032031110! i m TORI snonnmmnon ornmomsm Applloaflon fled August 9, 1980. lerlal Io. 474,188.

non. ro Amman anon contrary, or

. This invention relates to shoes and to the method of making them.

In the past in manufacturing one t pe of shoe,'it has been customary to make t e upper, then turn in the lower edge of the upper and sew a weltthereto. Thereafter a'last was inserted into the upper and successive portions of the edges of the up r'. with the welt attached thereto were stretc ed bver the sole portion of the last and tacked in the positlon to which they had been stretched. This stretching and tacking operation was slow, and required the services of a skilled operator and unless care was exercised, the portions of the up er, es ially the toe would appear irregu ar in e finished shoe. Furthermore it was necessary to keep the 7 upper with its attached welt tacked on the last for several hours until the leather ad-, justed itself to the stretched condition, for it was necessary to remove these tacks 'before attaching a sole to the up erand unless the leather of the upper 'ha been-.sufliciently stretched, it we a not hold the-desired shape until the sole was fastened thereto. In general the atent to Maloney, #1,206,018, patented ovember 28,1916, ex-

emplifies certain of the above-mentioned, known operations in the method of making so shoes.

In accordance with the resent invention a novel shoe structure an a novel. method of making the same has been developed wherein it is unnecessary to tack the upper 85 in stretched relation over the last and wherein it is unnecessary to provide a time interval sufiicient for the leather of the upper to assume a permanently stretched position over the last, since according to the present arrangement, the upper is stretched over the last and ,is immediately held in this position by means forming a part of the finished shoe, so that the sole can be sewed or otherwise attached to the welt and upper as soon as as the u per is drawn into properposition over the ast.

Fora clearer understanding of the inven tion, reference is made to Fig. 1 which is a perspective view of a shoe upper and attached is inserted in the partially completed shoe ofithe last 10 to occupy a position substan-' about the last. .ily. assume a position to which it has 100 drawn tightly about the last and also indicating the various pieces'oj the shoe, except the outer sole, arranged in the same relative position which they would occupy in a finished shoe; Fig. 2' is a perspective view of a shoe finished to the point where the sole and its attached heel lift are ready to be fastened thereto and these parts are shown partially in final position; and Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional view of a finished shoe (without the sock lining) taken substantially on the line 33 of Fig. 1. 5

In the drawin 5 nerallydesignates the finished upper o aco including the quarter 6 and the vamp 7. According to the present arrangement, the up r 5 is finished including a lining (not s own) and has its lower edges .8 turned in to a position substantially parallel to the position which the sole eventually will occupy, and thereafter a strip of welt 9 is sewed or otherwise attached. thereto, according to the usual practice. At this point in themethod, a wooden last 10 and the last with the shoe thereon is' then placed on a vertical support 11. Followin the known practice, the upper is centered an fastened to the. last by a centering tack, not shown driven into the back of the heel portion 0 the last throu h the upper near the back seam, shown at t e extreme'left of the shoe, as represented in Fig. 1. A filler 14-of felt or like material of a thickness substantially ual-to the combined thickness of the edges 0 the upper and the welt, is then placed within the space between the edges of the welt. It now becomes necessary to draw -the lower edges of the u per with the welt 9at- 1 tached thereto, tight y over the sole portion tially as shown in Fig. 1. In the past, it has been necessarytodraw successive portions of the unfinished edge of the u per withthe weltattached thereto, over t e last and to 1 tack each portion in its stretched position. This operation was re ated at successive portions of the edge 0 the u per and-the. I

weltuntil the up r has been rawn t' htl S iiice leather-will not ea upper thus tacked on the last for several welt attached thereto, over the sole portion, of the last. Since the back of the heel portion hours until it has assumeda permanently stretched position with respect to the last. The manual operation of tacking the uppers to the last has been a slow, tedious operation and this, together with the necessity of letting I the upper remain on the last for several hours,

has materially slowed down production.

In accordance with the present invention, the need for tacking the welt and its attached upper to the last'has been entirely obviated b the present construction of the shoe and t e method of making it. Instead of manually stretching the different portions of the upper and the welt over the last in succession and then tacking them, according to the present method, it is proposed to employ a loop 12 of wire or other similar material which, after the lasted shoe has been positioned on the support 11, may be placed at the junction of the upper and the welt and thereafter drawn in the direction of the arrow. This may be effected by passing the ends of the wires over a suitable pulley mechanism and attaching them to a which are herein illustrate The wire thus constitutes a loop 12 which engages the toe portion and the sides of the unfinished shoe and by a single movement draws the major portion of the edges of the upper with the of the upper is held snugly against the last by the centering tack and since the wire 12, by enga mg the junction of the welt and the upper, orces the side of the heel portion of the u per over the last, it is only necessary for t e operator manually to force against the last those side portions of the welt that are not engaged by the loop of wire. In actual practice, it is usually only necessary for the o erator to force in the welt at one side of te shoe at a point where the welt arches away from the wire as shown in Fig.

1. While in this stretched condition, a piece 15, to be known as a fastening sole of fabric, leather or other suitable material is adhesive 1y fastened to the top surface of the welt as best illustrated in Fig. 2 and in Fig. 3. This piece of fabric or fastening sole thus holds the edges of the welt and the upper in the position into which they have been stretched y the loop of wire 12. The fabric of the fastening sole 15 has suficient strength so that the shoe may be removed from the last, and

the service sole 16 including the liftl? may be permanently attached to the shoe by means of adhesive and stitching or other fastening means through the welt. When the sole is thus fastened to the shoe proper, and otherwise finished, a sock lining 18 is inserted within the shoe to cover the felt filler 14;.

A shoe made according to the above method comprises a new article of manufacture in edal, neither of which the fasted sole 14 in addition to holding the upper in its stretched position over the last serves to reinforce the shoe during use, and cooperates with the sole 16 in keepin the shoe n shape.

. hat I claim is:

, 1. The method of manufacturing a shoe which comprises making an upper including a vamp, fastening a welt to the edges of the upper, simultaneously drawing the edges of the vamp with the welt attached thereto toward each other by a uniformly bendable medium engaging a' substantial portion of the upper and extendin only along the outside of said upper, hol ing the edges of the upper with the welt attached thereto in fixed relation as drawn, and attaching a sole' on said welt.

2. The method of manufacturing a shoe which comprises makin an upper including a vamp, fastening a we t to the edges of the upper, lnserting a last within the upper, simultaneousl drawing the edges of the vamp with the wet attached thereto toward each other over a portion of the last by force conforming to the shape of a substantial portion of the last irrespective of its shape and supplied solely from the outside of said upper, holding the edges of the upper with the. welt attached thereto in snug relation with regard to said last, and attaching a sole to said welt.

3. The method of manufacturin a shoe which comprises making an upper, astening a welt to the edges of the u r, inserting a last within the upper, stretc ing the upper around the last b drawing a loop from a position outside 0 said upper to engage the junction of a substantial portion of the vam and the welt, holdin the upper and the we t in such stretched re ation, and attaching a sole to said welt.

4. The method of manufacturing a shoe which comprises making an upper including a vamp, fastening a welt to the edges of the upper, inserting a filler between the inner edges of the welt, simultaneously forcing the edges of the vamp and the welt attached thereto toward each other by a uniformly bendable medium engaging a substantial ortion of the upper and extending only a ong the outside of said upper holding the edges of the upper and the welt attached thereto in fixed relation as drawn, and attaching a sole on said welt.

5. The method of manufacturing a shoe which comprises making an upper including a vamp, fastening a welt to the edges of the upper, inserting a last Within the upper, simultaneousl drawing the edges of the vam and the we t attached thereto toward eac other over a portion of the last by a loop bendable throughout its length en a 'ng the junction of a substantial portion 0 t e vamp and welt and drawn from a position outside LMNB of said upper, adhesively attaching'a fee teni sole to the lowe'r'surfaeeof said-welt 3 to ho d the edges of the upper with the welt attached thereto in fixed relation as drawn, 5 and attaching a sole to said welt, I

V 6. The method of manufacturing a shoe which comprises making an n per including a vamp, fasteningawetto. eed of the 11 per, inserting a last within e upper, p acing a. filler inthe spaee between the edges of said welt,-simultaneousl dra the edges of the vamp with the w tattaoh thereto toward each other over a portion of the last h a bendable loop enga the 15 junction 0 a substantial POItIOD Of e vamp and welt and drawn from a point remote from the upper, adhesively applging an inner sole to the lower surface 0 said welt to hold the edges of the upper in fixed relatioil as drawn, and attaching a sole to said we t. In witness'whereof, I-hereunto subscribe my name this 8th day of August, A. D. 1930.

as SAMUEL izzo.

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