US1844730A - Lasting and sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 9, 193 2. J. M. WHELTON\ LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE v 3 Sheets-Sheet l Fild Dec. 3, 1929 jay 712502" Feb. 9, 1932. J, MQWHELTON LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 3, 1929 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Imervtor wa s MM?- Feb. 9, 1 932. J, M; WHELTON 1,844,730

LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 3, 1929 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 JE Y Patented Feb. 9, 1932 rrso STATES PATENT? OFFICE J'bHN in. water/iron,v or r'nmsony, mnssecnusnrrs, ASSIGNOR T0 UNITED snon MA- CHINERY conronnrroiv,

orrA'rnnson, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION on NEW I a p ILASTING AND snwxne MACHI E Application filed ma ner 3, 1929. seria mi. 4i1,3es.

The present invention has relation to sewing machines in general, and relates particutightly over the last and to secure it'to the sole by a line of stitches inserted and located so as to unite the upper permanently to the sole in tightly-lasted relation. Another object of the invention is to enable this fastening of the upperto the soleby stitches to be accomplished upon a curved needle machine, so as to gain the advantages of thistype of sewing machine in easeof manipulating the shoe during the operation, and ability to 1 place the stitches closely in the angle defined between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, without danger of the needle cutting or marring the upper material where it is supported by the bulging sid f the last. a 1 v t To these endsQthe invention comprises a lasting and sewing mach ne having stltchforming devices including a curved needle,

and means for clamping the marginal portion of the upper against the outerportion of the projecting margin ofthe sole, and means acting while the upper is thus clamped to wipetheimaterial of the upper which bridges the angle between thelast and thesole, down into this angle) Thiswipingactioninbendingthe upperand tucking it into the angle draws the adjacentmaterial of the upper down tightly over the last since the edge-portion is held relatively tightly against move ment through being clamped against the sole.

curved needle of the stitch-forming devices is passed obliquely through the sole as close- While this relation is maintained,the

ly as possible at the exact edge of thesolefacing surface of the last, and through the upper as nearly, as practicable on the line on which the upper is bent in being tucked into the angle, sothat at the completion of the in feeding the Work past the needle. after, while the needle is through the work,

panying: drawings, in which stitch following the Withdrawal'of the needle, the parts are permanently fixed in the desired lasted condition at this point. The clamping and wiping means are arranged to have a sidewise movement of their portions engaging with the upper, so as to cooperate Theremeans act to liftthe wiper and the clamping device clear ofthe work, and move them sidewise back to their starting-point, after which the entire operation isrepeated. This step-by-step simultaneous lasting andsewing action is continued about the circuit ofthe shoe, or about as much thereofas maybe desired, until the upper has been secured to the sole by a continuous seam forming a permanent and enduring union between these two parts of the shoe, increasing the life of the shoe and imparting to it a neat and trim contour closely approaehingthat of a welt or turnshoe. V i An illustrative embodiment of a preferred form of the invention is shown in the accom- Fig. 1""is a front elevation of a typical "curved needleshoe sewing machine with the devices of the invention appliedthereto, certain .of the usual parts being omitted from the figure as unnecessary to an understanding of the invention;

j Fig. 2 is a side View of the same, also with certain familiar Jparts omitted;

Fig. 3 is a sectional View ona larger scale on line 3-3 of Fig; 1, ofsuch parts as are closelyconnected with the invention, showlng the action of the clamping. and wiping members in lasting the shoe; and i Fig. '4 is a front view of the parts shown in Fig. v i 7 Having reference to the drawings, the principles of the invention are embodied, for purposes of illustration ofits application, in a typical curved hooked needle shoe sewing machine of the Goodyear type, widely used to sew a chain stitch in uniting the upper, insole, and welt in making welt shoes, and in joining the upper and sole of turn shoes. Such a machine is shown and described in U. S. Letters Patent No. 1,108,560, granted It (Q on August 25, 1914 to Andrew Eppler, for a shoe sewing machine, to which patent reference may be had for a full and complete du scription of the construction and operation of such parts as are not shown or described herein-after. I

As heretofore, the machine is provided with the curved hooked needle 2 and the looper 4, which are operated in well-known manner through levers actuated by cams 6 on the cam-shaft 8- rotating in brackets 10 in connection with the frame of the machine.

In accordance with the invention, the machine is provided with a novel back-gage or work-rest 12, which engages'the wearing or outer surface of the sole, being forked or slotted as at 14 to permit the passage of the needle2. Its function is to support the shoe against the thrust of the clamping and wiping devices, and it is pivotally mounted by means of its sleeve 16 uponthe stud 18 carried; by the feed-slide 19, and on which the awl-seginent- 66 swings, so that it may be swung rearwardly and upwardly to permit the insertion and removal of the work without necessity for moving the clamping and Wiping devicesor the needle out of their timed relative positions. It is brought forward and locked in worlesupporting positionby a toggle-linkage comprising a link 22, pivoted at 24 tothe back gage, and connected at 26 to one end of a lever 28 pivoted. at 30 to ade pending support 32 on the feed-slide The rear end of this lever 28 isconnected by a rod 34 to a spring-lifted treadle (not shown) which in its-normal raised position holds the lever 28 in the position shown in Figures 2 and 3, with the center 26 below the line joining centers 24 and 30, and thus with the tog-- gle locked to brace the back gage against the thrust; of the clamping and wiping devices; Pressure of the operators foot upon the treadle serves as is-obvious to pull down the rod 34, breaking the toggle and swinging the back gage rearwardly and upwardly to permit insertion or removal of the work.

The device for clamping the overhanging edge-portion of the upper against the upper surface of the marginal portion of the sole comprises a member 86 which replaces the usual channelguide of the Goodyear machine,

being attached to the channel-gniderlever 38 by bolts 40 in theusual manner. This lever 38 as customary is mou-nted on'the feed-slide to move laterally therewith, and to swing on the sole, and? these twoparts inturn against the back gage, with sufiicient pressure to attain the results desired regardless of the thickness of the stock, and so that continued movement thereafter of the cam lever derived from its cam 6 will not greatly increase the pressure to the injury of the parts. Thus, the cam-lever is made in twoparts, the driving tooth 46 being formed on the portion 48, while the cam-follower 50 is mounted on the rearend of a portion 52, both portions having a common pivot upon the stud 54. Upon the 7 extension 56 of portion 52 forward of the stud 54is' pivotally mounted a pin 58 which slides freely through a swivelling eye 60 provided for it on the end of the portion 48.

.About this pin is an expanding spiral spring 62 which exerts pressure in opposite directions against the eye 60 on portion 48 and against'extension 56, tending to force them apart, this spreading action being limited by a cotter-pin 63 through" the end of the pin beyond the eye 60. lVith this arrangement, when the cam-follower 50 is moved radially inward of its cam 6 by the groove in. the cam,

the cam-lever will act as a unit to swing the channel-guide lever 38 about its pivot 42, until the clamping member 36 presses the up- ;per'against the sole and the sole against the 'the langle between the sole and the last coniprises a wiping foot 64 that is fixed upon the usualawl-segment 66' in place of the awl, the se ment being modified only so much as is necessary to provide for rigidly attaching the wiping foot thereto. For this purpose, the awl-segment is formed with a shoulder 68 to lie alongside the shank of the wiping foot 64, to prevent change of its angular relation with respect to the awl-segment through turning about on its attaching bolt 70, and the bolthole; formed for the bolt 0 in the segment is elongated in'the direction of extent of the wiping foot, so-provide adjustment of its time of arrival in contact with the upper. The 1 wiper is timed to engage the upper just as or after the clamping member 36 has clamped the upper against the sole-margin, and the wiper continues its downward movement betweenitheclamping member 36 and the last,

as shown in Fig. 3, to fold and tuck the upper into the angle between the sole and the last,the fold being brought close to or even under the edge of the sole-facing surface of the last. The acting extremity of the wiper Y in a bearing in the feed-slide.

is wedge-shaped to conform to this angle, and engagesthe upper over a moderate extent in advance of and in closeproximity th the needle. With the margin of the upper clamped to the sole andbridging the angle, the descent ofw'the wiper draws from over the last the added upper material entering into the bend that is pressed into the angle by the Wiper,

and in this way the upperis drawn down into tightlydasted relation step bystep as the operation progresses around the periphery of the sole; i y

The means for actuating the awl-segment are provided with a give-way to permit the tucking movement of the wiper to be stopped segmentwith the lower end of a lever 76 cariried by thefeed-slide and having a socket at its upper end to receive the rod 7 8 projecting downtrom the rocking stud 80 mounted This lever 76 isactuated through its connection at 82 with the cam-lever which in accordancewith the present invention is made in two parts with a give-way acting in one direction at the pivot 84, as in the case of the cam-lever for the clamping member 36. The part 86 of this cam-lever whichbearsthe pin 82 has a por- 'tion 88 provided with a swivelling eye 90, and

also has a lug 92 formed back of its pivot 84.

The other part 94which has the cam-follower 96 to engage a cam-groove in one ofthe cams has aportion 98 towhich is pivoted a pin 100, extending through the eye 90, and also has a lug 102'back of'the pivot 84 to engage the corresponding lug on part 86. An expanding spiral spring 104 surrounds the pin 100 and acts to hold the two lugs in engagement with each other. WVhen the rotation of the cam carries the follower 96 inwardly radially of the cam, the whole camlever acts as a unit to cause the wiper to press the upper intothe angle. When the resistance of the Work to further entry of the Wiper increases past the degree determined by the strength of the spring 104 chosen, the wiper and the part 86 remain at rest while the other part 94 completes the throw given it i by its cam-groove, purposely liberal to accommodate the thinnest stock apt to be operated on by the machine. In this continued travel of part 94, the lugs separate and the spring 104 is compressed, as is obvious. The

re-engagement of the lugs upon reverse movement of part 94 insures positive retracion of the wiper out of engagement with the work during the reverse movement of the feed-slide after feeding, while the needle is through the work and holding the same.

The needle 2 is mounted and actuated in customary manner, being timed to enter the wearing surface of the sole and emerge from the upper while the latter is held tucked into the angle by the wiper, with the clamping member still clamping the upper against the sole and the sole against the back-gage. Arranged to pass close to the side of the wiper as the latter comes torest after its feeding movement, and in line with the wedge-shaped laterally-extending working edge thereof, the needle emerges exactly in the angle between the last and the sole, and in the corresponding[ angle formed in the upper by the wiper. 11 its retraction the needle draws tight the thread forming astitch permanently uniting the parts in the lasted relation established by the cooperation of the wiper and clamping member. As the operation is repeated and the drawing-down and stitching proceed around the circuit of the last,

the upper isprogressively and evenly lasted allaround and united tothe sole by a continuous seam sharply defining the outlines of the upper as determined by the last. This seam is well in under the edge of the last in a position least likely to be struck and cut by a needle in a subsequent outsole-stitching or welt-applying operation, and being nonmetallic in nature offers no risk of deflecting such needle with resultant. damage to the work or the mechanism."

The nature and scope of the invention having beenindicated, and the construction embod ing the invention having been specifically cescribed, what is claimed is 1. A lasting and sewing machine for stitchdown shoes having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hooked needle, means for clamping the upper to the marginal portion of the sole, and a wiper acting to press the upper into the angle between the sole and the last while thus clamped.

2.A lasting and sewing machine for stitchdown shoes having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hookedneedle, a clamping foot adapted to clamp the upper against the marginal portion of the sole andto movelaterallyto'feed the work, and means for pressing the upper into the angle between the sole and the last while thus clamped. it i i y i 3;A lasting and sewing machine I for stitchdown shoes having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hooked needle, a clamping foot adapted to clamp the upper against the marginal portionof the sole and to move laterally to feed acurved path to clamp the upper against the inarginal portion of the sole, and means for pressing the upper into the angle. between the sole and the last while thus clamped.

A lasting and sewing machine for stitchdown shoes having, in combination, stitch-forming devices including av curved hooked needle, a clamping foot moving in a curved path to clamp the upper against the marginal portion otthesole, and a wiper moving ina curved path and adapted to press the upper into the angle between the sole-and the last while thus clamped. w

6. A lasting and sewing machine for stitchdown shoes having, in combination,

stitch-forming devices including a curved hooked needle, a clamping foot moving in a curved path to clamp the upper against the marginal portion of the sole and: moving laterally to feed the work, and means for pressing the upper into the angle between the sole and the last while thus clampec.

Tl A lasting and sewing machine for stitch'down shoes having, in combination, stitch-forming devices including a curved hooked needle, a clamping foot moving in a; curved path to clamp the upper against the marginal portion of the sole and moving; laterally tovfeed the work, and a wiper moving in a curved path and adapted to press the upper into the angle between the sole andthe last while thus clamped.

8'. A lasting and sewing machine for stitchdownshoes having, in combination, means for clamping the upper" to the marginal portion of the sole, means for pressing the upper into the angle between the sole and the last, a back rest movable into position tosupport the shoe against the thrust of such clamping and pressing means,- and out of position to permit entry and removal of the work, and stitch-forming devices uniting the parts of the shoe in the relation established by the clamping, pressing, and supporting means. i i

9. A lasting and sewing machine for stitchdown shoes, having, in. combination, stitch-forming devices and means for clamping the upper against the marginal portion of the sole and, while thus clamped, pressing the upper into the angle between thesole and the last, the clamping and pressing means cooperating to feed the work.

10. A lastmg and sewing machine for .stitchdown shoes having, in combination,

stitch forming devices including a' needle, lasting means including a member clamping the upper against the marginal portion of the sole and a member pressing the upper intothe' angle between the sole and the last while thus clamped, and a worlotable adapted to be moved from its operative position to: permit insertion and removal of the work while the devices referred to remain in their working relation to each other.

11; A lasting and sewing machine for a work support engaging the stitchdown shoes having, in combination, stitch-forming. devices, lasting devices for pulling the upper down over the last while therstitch-forming devices: are uniting it with the sole, a back-rest supporting the work against the thrust of the lasting devices, and toggle linkage adapted to be manipulated by the operator to move the back-rest into and out of its workingposition.

.12. .A lasting and sewing machine for stitchdowni shoes having, in combination, a work support engaging the outer surface of the sole, a clamping foot to clamp the upper to the marginal portion of the sole, means for pressingtheupper into the angle between the sole and the last, and stitch-forming devices'uniting the parts in the relation established by the clamping, pressing, and supporting means including a curved hooked needle entering the work from the outer surface side and emerging at the angle formed in the-upper.

13.. A lasting and sewing machine for stitchdown shoes having, in combination, outer surface of a sole assembled with an upper upon a last, means to clamp the upper to the marginal portion of the sole projecting beyond the last, andto press the upper into the angle between the sole and the last, and stitch-forming devices uniting the upper and the sole in the. relation thus established including a curved hooked needle entering the work. from theout'er surface and forming a seam in the angle.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name tothis specification.

JOHN M. NI-I'ELTON.

DISCLAIMER 1,844, 730.J0hn M. Whelton, Peabody, Mass. LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE.

Patent dated February 9, 1932. Disclaimer filed April 10, 1936, by the assignee, United Shoe Machinery Corporation.

Hereby enters this disclaimer to claim 13 of said Letters Patent.

[Ufiic'ial Gazette May 12, 1.936.]

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