US1762283A - Waistband curtain - Google Patents

Description

O. K. THOMAS ET AL .June4 Vl0, 1930I WAIST BAND CURTAIN Filed ,-Nov. 5, 1927 OLIVE K. `:Encinasam) JOSEPH zo. MALKIN, or" PI-I1LADELPHIA, rnNNsYLvANIA, Asy Patented June `1l), 1930 p stars PATENT OFFICE SIGNOR-S OF ONE-HALF TO FREYDBERG BROS. ING., NEW YORK, N. Y., A CORPO- marron or NEwYoRK WAISTBAND CURTAIN .Application led November 5, 1927. Serial No. 231,376.

`The present invention relates to waist band curtains for trousers, shirts and the like.

It has been a common practice among clothing manufacturers to purchase Waist bands `and other similar ndings in a made up or assembled condition `so `that they may be readily used in the manufacture of garments, thus relieving the clothing manufacturer from the necessity and the expense incident to maintaining a large force of employees and apparatus for the making of such iindingsand trimmings.

lVith respect to trouser waist band curtains, it has been the practiceto construct these curtains ofa stiifening fabric such as canvas or drill being faced on one side with a lining fabric such as twill having one marginal edge portion extending around one `longitudinal edge of the stiffening material and stitched thereto. In the application of such a band or curtain to garment fabric, the lined or faced sideof the band is placed against the outer or `face side of the garment fabric with its longitudinal edge (one having the stiffening and lining material unsecured) lying adjacent or contiguous to the edge of the waist openingof the `garment material. The operator then stitches the waist band or curtain to the garment material by a machine 3Q stitching operation, and after this stitching,

the curtain is turned over with respectV to the garment material so as to bring the exposed face of the canvas against theinner sideA of the garment material and the curtain is creased or broken along said line ofstitching.

Itis found that during the stitching operation above referred to, the lining material, which is a lighter-softer material than the canvas. will move or shift `with respect to 4o the stiifening material and cause an `uneven appearance resembling puckers or folds. It is further, found that there being no guide for the operator to follow during the stitching, the line of stitchingis often uneven and makes an irregular appearance when the curtain is folded over in `the manner above defined. It is also found that it is diiicult to foldthe curtain at said line of stitching because there is nothing to facilitate the folding along the line of stitching and, also, that there is nothing to ensure an even folding of the curtain at the point it is stitched to the garment fabric.

It is the object of the present invention to overcome the above stated drawbacks in a very simple, `effective and economical way by adhering the opposing faces ofthe lining material and the stifening material of the curtain together so that there will be no shifting of the lining with respect to the stitfening material during application to the garment fabric, thus rendering the curtain substantially unitary in construction; and further in providing an impressed groove on the exposed face of the canvas and at the upper orfree marginal edge portion of said unitary curtain, and in which groove the operator may make the line attaching stitching and along which the curtain may be readily fold ed. The groove preferably has a substantial width to permit slight deviation from a straight line by the line of attaching stitching. The groove in no way weakens or mutilates the threads of thefabric, but is preferably made by offsetting the plane of the fabric between its longitudinal edges. With `these and other objects in view the invention further resides in sundry details of construction, combination and arrangement of parts which will be set forth as this specification proceeds. y In this specification and the annexed drawings, the invention is disclosed in the form in which itis considered to be the best, but the invention is not limited to such form because it is capable of being embodied in other forms; and it is to be understood that in and bythe claims following the description herein it is intended to coverthe invention in whatever form `it may embody within `the scope thereof.

Other purposes of the invention, more or less `specific than those referred to above, will be in part obvious and in part pointed out in the description of elements, combinationl and arrangement of parts and application of principles constituting the invention,

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embodiment of the' invention as at present devised Figure 1 is a perspective view of a roll of trouser curtain or waist-band made in accordance with the present invention and ready for attachment to the waist band "of garments; l

Figure 2 is a fragmentary perspective view ,showing the waistband curtain applied to the garment material;

'Figure 8 is a transverse sectional view through the material and Waist band showing the manner in which the two are associated when they are stitched together; c

Figure 4 is a transverse sectional view through the garment lmaterial and the curtain when the parts have been folded with respect to each other, and as they appear in 'the finished product.

Referring in .detail to the drawings, A indicates the waist-band or curtain which is 'usually .produced in roll form, as indicated in'Figure 1, and B indicates the garment or trousers to which the curtain is attached,

as shown in Figures 2 and 3.

The general construction of the curtain A is substantially the 'same as those `generally used and employed, consisting of a strip of canvas 10 or other stiifening material anda co-extensive strip of twilled or lining fabric 11. lt is the usual practice to stitch one edge of the lin-ing, as at 12, longitudinally to the canvas at a point adjacent one edge and in folding the lining around said edge of the canvas, as shown clearly in Figures 1 and 2,

with vthe major portion of the vlining lying in opposed relation to the adjacent face of the canvas strip. shows the lining and canvas'attached as above mentioned, this is not essential and no partof the invention, because it is to be understood that the lining and canvas may be associated in v'another or any desired manner.

AIn curtains of the above character, it is found that by'adhering the opposingface of the lining to the opposing face of the canvas substantially throughout their areas, such as by pasting or ythe like 13, so that thelining will prese'nt at all times a smooth surface which will not pucke'r nor bulge nor crease with respect to the canvas when being appl'iedbytheoperator.` Itis to be understood,

however, that while Tthe pasting or the like is considered 'to be `an advantageous and desirable Afe,alture Aof the combination of features of the present invention for obtaining the most "practical results, it maybe omitted in some instances without departing from the spirit 4ofthe invention. Aside from thecneat appearance presented, this construction admits of quicker production by greatly facilitating the vattachment of the curtain to the garment because of the fact that the lining willfn'ot vbulge nor gather which requires the operator .to Iinterrupt the attaching operation While the Vpresent disclosure to straighten out, and, in some cases, to rip the stitching, in order to remove the bulges and gathers.

The invention also contemplates simple, effective and inexpensive means on curtains or waist bands (whether or not ofthe type having the surfaces of adjacent layers or plies adhering or secured together) acting as a stitching guide and a readily bendable line of fold greatly facilitating the application yof the curtain to the garment and the folding of the same in a smooth, even, and neat manner. Therefore, the marginal edge portion of the curtain or waist band, corresponding to the edge 14, shown in the drawing is formed with a pressed or off-set rib providing a groove or scoring 15 which is spaced from the edge 14 of the curtain. The groove 15 referred to appears on the canvas side of the curtainand the rib on the lining side while the body portion and marginal edge portion 15 lie in substantially the same plane. The groove 15 is formed in the curtain by passing Vit through opposed grooved and ribbed rollers, by stamping, or the like. However, the former method of forming the groove is now vpreferred because of the celerity with which the operation can be performed and the uniformity of results. The term groove or grooving in lits broadest sensecontemplates any character of scoring which will leave a substantial impression or deformation in the material, although in its specific sense refers to a depression or laterally off set portion in the plane of the body of the curtain.

Vhen the curtain is wound in roller form (as shown in Figure 1), the groove on the 'canvas side of the curtain fits over the rib, correspondingly formed on the lining side thereof, thus nesting the convolution of the rolled curtain so that they'will not slip' edgej wise with respect to each other but maintain the curtain in a neat usable form 'atfall times.

The curtain or waist-band A thus provided is'applied to trousers and like 'garments by placing vthe marginal edge portion 14 thereof upon a marginal edge portion of the garment fabric and is attached thereto by a line of stitching 16, (such as by sewing machine) which will follow on the outer edge 15a of the groove 15 or within the groove. After the stitching operation, Vthe major Vportion of the curtain will fold upon itself along the line provided by the groove 15 which limits the line of fold `thereto by reason of the fact that it acts as a scoring. Thus it will -beY seen that the groove or .scoring 15 enables the attaching stitching 16 to be easily applied in a predetermined line so that the curtain may be readily folded on said line to produce a smooth and even line of fold at said stitching, and which stitchingl maintains the line of fold in an even and neat appearing condition while the garment is being worn. The

width of the groove 15 may be varied as desired; however, when the same is of the width illustrated in the drawing, it produces a neat rounding edge at the line of fold. After these operations, the curtain and trousers are handled in the same manner as is generally the practice in the industry.

From the above itshould be clear that a very desirable and economical curtain or waist-band is provided which greatly facilitates the application thereof to garments and greatly lessens the time of this operation in garment factories, thus contributing to the increase of garment production and wherein the lining material is at all times smooth and presents a neat appearance and which is provided with means acting as a guide or indicator in which the line of stitching for attaching the curtain to garments is made and j also performs the added function of providing a scoring line which will readily fold regardless of whether the line of attaching stitching 16 is perfectly even and straight, thus giving the attached folded edge of the curtain a straight, uniform line of fold. It is, of course, understoodthat either feature of the invention above described may be `used independently of the otherwithout departing from the spirit of the invention. But, it has been found that if the component layers i of the waist band curtain are not secured together, they will not register or align with each other, during the attachment to the garment by the operator thus resulting in a very badly finished product and lessening the facility` with which the curtain ca n be applied by the operator. Instead of pasting as above denoted the layers may be secured together in any other manner which will hold them from relative shifting. j l

Having thus described the invention, what isclaimed is:

l. As a new article of manufacture, a waist band, a stripof facing material and a strip of stiifening material in opposed relation, the inner surface of said strip of stiffening `material being in Contact with andadhering to the adjacent surface of the facing strip approximately throughout their contacting areas, said waist band being scored at one longitudinal edge thereof to form a follow t line for the attaching stitching and a line of fold.

t 2. As a new article of manufacture, a waist band, a strip of facing material and a strip of stiifening material in opposed relation, one longitudinal marginal edge of said facing material being extended around the adjacent edge of the stiffening material so as to overlap the other surfaces thereof, the outer surface of said strip of stiifening material being formed with a groove adjacent the other longitudinal edge thereof to provide a visible follow line for the attaching stitching and a line of fold at said stitching.

stitching is made and alsoprovides a readily bendable fold line.

et. As a new article of manufacture, a waist j band curtain including strips offstiifening material and facing material having opposed contacting surfaces, said stiffening material being `formed with a groove adjacent and spaced fromone longitudinal edge thereof so that, whenbeing applied to a garment, the groove provides a visible follow line at which attaching stitching is made and also provides a readily bendable fold line, the inner surface of said strip of stiifening material being in contact with and adhering to the adjacent surface of" the facing strip approximately throughout their contacting areas.

5. As a new article of manufacture, a waist band curtain including strips `of stiffening material and facing material having opposed contacting surfaces, and adhering one to the other approximately throughout their contacting areas, said stiffening material being formed with a groove adjacent and spaced from one longitudinal edge thereof so that, when being applied to a garment, the groove provides a visible follow line at which attaching stitching is made and also provides a readily bendable fold line. j i

`6. As a new article of manufacture, a waist band curtain` including fiat strips of stiffening material and facingmaterial secured together to maintain them in juxtaposed relation, said stiifening and facing material being laterally offset from the plane of the body thereof at a point spa-ced from one longitudinal t edge thereof to form a depressed groovein the exposed surface of the stiffening material and a corresponding rib on the other side of said waist band.

7. As a new article of manufacture, a waist band curtain includingflat strips of stiffen-` waist band on opposite sides of said groove lying in the same plane.

8, As a new article of manufacture, a Waist band including flat strips of stiflening niaterial and facing material arranged in faceto-face contacting relation, said materials being offset laterally from the plane of the body thereof at a point spa-ced from one longitudinal edge thereof to forni a relatively Wide Y depressedY groove in the exposed face of the stiflrening material, and a corresponding rib on the exposed face of the facing material, said groove and rib being co-eXtensive of the Waist band, the` ungrooved portion of the vWaist band on opposite sides of the groove lying in the same plane.

In testimony whereof We have hereunto set Our. ,hande OLIVE K. THOMAS. JOSEPH D. MALKIN.

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