US1584239A - Machine for operating on shoes - Google Patents

Description

May 11 192a. 1,584,239

G. A. MINER MACHINE FOR OBERA'IING 0N SHOES Filed March a. 1924 Patented May 11, 1926.

UNITED v STA TEs PAT GEORGE A. MINER, 0F GLEN RocK, n w EtERsEY, AssIenoR To UNZETEIXSHOQMA- GHINEBY GORPORA'IION, OF JERSEY.

rA'rERson, nEw ERs Y, ecoR'ro A'rIoN on N W MACHINE EoR OPERATING onsn oEs.

Application me'a March 8, 1924. Serial No. e97,7'ss;.

This invention relates to shoemaking and particularly to channeled soles, in the channels of which are anchored the stitches for fastening the upper. In a turn shoe theupper is sewn to a leather sole havinga channel and a channel-flap, while in a considerable proportion of weltshoes all-leather insoles are used, and in such cases the insole is provided with a channel and a channelflap. Although these two types of shoes and the methods of making them differ from each other in many respectsthey have this common feature, viz., that the upper is sewn to a channeled sole having a channel-flap. The preservation of this flap, whether .it be a part of the wear sole of a turn shoe or a part of the insole of a welt shoe, 1s the purpose for, which the present invention is provided. i p

It is necessary, after sewing the inseam of a shoe, whether a turn shoe or a welt shoe, to trim surplus material from the betweensubstance, which, in both cases, includes the projecting portions of the upper and lining, and, in a welt shoe, the lip of the insole, if there is a lip, and sometimes the inner marginal portion of the welt. Good shoe making does not require trimmingoff the channel-flap; in fact, itwould be preferable to preserve it, but modernlmethods of manufacture as practised by the machinery now in commercial use result in cutting off the channel-flap incidentally to trimming off surplus portions of the between-substance. The channel-flap, if preserved intact and laid flatin the channel of the finished shoe, would help greatly to maintain evenness of the shoe bottom, but it hasbeen sacrificed in the interest of what has been considered the more expeditious methods of manufacture. I 7

During the manufacture of both of these types of shoes, namely, those in which the soles are made of leather only and provided with channel-flaps, the soles are tempered with moisture prior to the inseam-sewing operation to soften them, and the channelflaps are thereby rendered so pliant that they remain in any position to which they may be bent. Furthermore, machines for sewing the inseam of a shoe, whether-a turn shoe or a welt shoe, include a channel-guide arranged to a turn up thechannel-flap. it Consequently, if the flap is not raisedbeforetit reaches the inseam-sewing stage it is invariably" raised by the --channel'-guide and usually remains raised when "it passes from the inseam-sewing machine to the next; ma-

chine, which is usually a machine for trim-' ming off surplus stock fromthe elements through whic'hthe inseam stitches extend,

As these trimming machines are'now constructed it is practically impossible to avoid ing off the raised channel-flap inciden-" tally-to trimming off the surplus materials projecting from the inseam. Nevertheless, in view. of the advantages of preserving the ohannel-flap so that'it will remain an integral part of thefinished shoe and fill the depression formedby the channel, an object of the present invention is' to provide improved means for, closing itinstead of cutting it ofi,

sists in an improved machinecomprising A feature'of' the invention therefore con means for closing the" channel-flap and l means for feeding the shoe so that the closing means will act progressively along the length of the flap. Iiam'aware that machines have been heretofore provided for closing the channel-flap on the tread surface of an outsole, but I am not aware that any machine forthatpurpose has even been provided with means jfor feeding the'shoe.

I therefore desire broad protection for the combination of means for closing a channel flap, and means for feeding the shoe irrespective of thetype ofsole of which it' is a part.

Another .object. of the invention is to provide for closing the channel-flap without necessitating an additionalhandlingof the shoe for that purpose, and accordingly another feature consists in combining the flapclosing means with means for feeding the shoe and means for performmgcsome other operation on the shoe. As'shown, the in 'vention is embodied in an organization comprising means for trimming surplus material from the between-substance of an inseamed shoe, but it would be within the scope of the invention to combine the flapclosing means with means for performing some operation other than that of trimming the inseam, and theclaims appended hereto Referringto the drawings, in which the invention is illustrated as ap lied to a "wellknown type of inseam-trimming machine,

Fig. 1 is a side elevationof the upper portion of such machine;

I Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig. 1, but on a larger scale, of the work-engaging de- *vices of said machine in working relation to an inseam'ed shoe having a leather insole provided with a channel-flap;

Fig. 3 is a View similar to Fig. 2 except phat the insole has a shoulder instead of a Fig. 4 is a planview partly in section of the flap-closing member anda portionof a member for guiding the surplus material-of I the between-substance to the trimming locality, the plane of the section-being indicated by broken li-ne'IV of Fig. 2.

' Fig. 5 is an elevation of the elen'ients represented in Fig. 4; and

Fig. 6 is a sectional view of an inseamed shoe andshows the channel-flap extending up J from the insole. This position of the channel-flap is typical of the condition of an inseamed shoe about to undergo an inseam-trimming operation.

The machine represented in Fig. 1 is of the same type as the machine shown in Letters Patent No. 1,226,872, granted May 22, 1917, on application of A. Eppler. This machine is provided with a rotary cupshaped trimming knife having an annular cutting edge 10. Suitable mechanism (not shown) is provided for driving this knife in the direction indicated by an arrow in Fig. 1. The shoe is supported by cooperative rolls 12, 14 arranged to clamp the welt as shown by Figs. 2 and 3. The roll 12 is positively driven to feed the shoe, While the roll 14, which is carried by a lever 16, is pressed toward the roll 12 by the action of a spring (not shown) connected to said lever. The driven roll 12, which is provided with corrugations on its work-engaging face. is driven in the direction of an arrow in Fig. 2 by gearing (not shown) to feed the work toward the trimming knife 10.

The trimming knife 10 is. arranged to trim the surplus stock from the between-sub stance of the shoe and its direction of rotation is such that the drag on the work incidental to its cutting motion is sustained by the clamping rolls 12 and 14. A roll 18 is arranged to engage the surplus material of the between-substance in advance of the trimming knife to guide said material to the knife and to turn up any portions thereof that are inclined toward the middle of welt.

the sole. This roll is carried by a shaft 20 journaled in a movable arm 22. Suitable mechanism (not shown) is provided for driving the shaft 20. The periphery of the roll 18 is provided with helical ribs which tend to lift and smooth the uneven portions of the surplus material. All the elements thus far described are mounted on the. upper portion 24 of the machine frame.

The arm 22 is aranged to swing toward and from the feed roll 12 and is pressed toward the latterby a spring 26 but may be retracted manually to facilitate insertion and-removal of the work. For this purpose the arm-ismounted on a fulcrum member 28 and is rigidly connected to an arm 30. A rod 32 connects the arm 30 with a trcadle not shown) and extends through an ear on the frame. A spring 26 encircles the rod 32 and is under initial compression between the ear 34 and the arm 30 to raise the latter.

"Vhen the treadle rod 32 is depressed it swings the roll 18 away from the feed roll scribed in the aforesaid patent, the roll 18.

differing as hereinafter explained.

Fig.2 includes a portion of an inseamed shoe comprising an upper 36, an insole 38 and a welt 40. A portion of the last is in- ;dicated at 42 and one of the inseam stitches is indicated at 44. The flange of surplus upper material projecting from the betweensubstance is indicated at 46. The insole is provided with a channel 48 to receive the stitches, with a channel-flap 50 and with a rib 52 against which the upper is stitched.

After the inseam of the shoe has been sewn it is necessary to trim off the surplus between-substance close to the line of stitches.

In a welt shoe this is to give the insole a suitable bottom to receive the outsole, while in a turn shoe it is to make the inside of the finished shoe smooth and comfortable. In a welt shoe the elements to be trimmed include the projecting marginal portions of the upper, lining and .toe stiffener, and usually the inner marginal portion of the If the insole has a lip such as that indicated at 52 in Fig. 2 this also requires trimming. At this stage in the manufacture of the shoe =the channel-flap 50 normally-stands up more or less from the insole as shown by Fig. 6, having been raised tothat position by the channel-guide of the inseam sewing machine. This condition is typical of the channel-flap in a turn shoe as well as in'a welt shoe, and in either case thechanne'l-flap has heretofore been trimmed off incidentallyto trimming the surplus material from the between-substance because it has been easier to trim it off than to avoid doing so. Now, however, the present invention provides means for closing the channel-flap while the trimming knife 10 is trimming the surplus material from the between-substance The illustrated channel-closing means comprises a finger having a work-engaging portion 54 and a shank portion 56. As shown, this finger is fixed to the member 22 by a set-screw 58. For this purpose a socket is bored in the member 22 for the reception of the shank 56. 'These elements provide for adjusting the flap-closing finger in lines parallel to the axis of the roll 18, and if the portion 54 is set in contact with the lower end of the roll 18, the latter will brace it against upward pressure of the work. In any case, the portion 54, by its engagement with the sole, constitutes a the closeness of trimming. y i

In practice, the channel-closing finger. is subjected also to stresses transversely of the axis of the roll 18, which stresses are due to various causes including the feeding movement of the work and the rubbing action resulting therefrom, but the invention provides also for bracing said finger against these stresses so that it will not be bent or turnedabout the axis of its shank. Accordingly, the lower end of the shaft 20 or of the roll 18, as the case may be, is provided .with an extension 60 of relatively small diameter which serves as an abutment to brace the portion 54. Since the shoe is fed in the directionindicated by arrowsj62 in. Figs. 4 and 5 its tendencyto bend or otherwise displace the flap-closing finger is sustained by theextension 60 in such a way as to'relieve the shank 56 from torsional and other stresses and to relieve the set. screw 58 accordingly. The tip of the portion 54 is beveled (Figs. 2, 3 and 4) to separate the lining from the channel-flap and thebottom surface of the portion 54 is preferably beveled or rounded, as indicated at 64 in Fig.5, to reduce the drag due to the feeding movement of the work. J 7

Provision is also made for bracing the flap-closing finger against displacement transversely of the arrows 62. For this purpose the work-engaging portion 54 is formed with a substantial semi-circular notch 66 to fit the extension 60.

Since the flap-closing finger is carried by the same retractible arm 22 that provides a journal for the roll 18, it necessarily'partakes of the movements of the latter toward and from the rolls 12 and 14, and its cooperative relation to the roll 18 is therefore not disturbed by the movement of the arm when a piece of work is inserted or removed.

The machine elements shown in Fig. 3 are the same as those in the other figures, but

gage to control thepurpose of Fig. 3 is to show thatthe invention is usable to close the channel-flap of an insole of another type. In Fig. 3 the upper 36, welt 40 and last 42 do not dilfer essentially from those shown in Fig. 2, but the insole 68, instead of being provided with a lip or rib like that indicated at 52 in Fig. 2, is formed with a shoulder 7 0 against which the upper is held by the inseam stitches. An insole of this type is commonly provided with a channel 48 and a channel-flap 50. The work-engaging portion, 54' of the channel-closer has a sufficient range of contact with the insole to overlap and close the channel-flap irrespective of variations in the distance between the flap and the material I to be trimmed.

Having thus described my. invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent'of the United States is:

1. A machine for operating upon an inseamed shoe having a sole provided with a channel-flap and a flange of surplus. upper material projecting from the between-substance, comprising means arranged torun inside said flange and close the channeLfiap, and means for, feeding the shoe to cause said closing means to act progressively along the length of the channel-flap. p

2. A machine for operating upon an in seamed shoe having a sole provided'with a channel-flap and a flange of surplus upper material projecting from the between-substance, comprising means. arranged to run inside said flange and close the channel-flap,

means for simultaneously performing another operation on the shoe, and means for feedlng the shoe lengthwise of the channelflap sothat said flap-closing means-and the means for performing the other said operation will function progressively.

3. A machine for. operating upon a. shoe hav ng a sole provided with a channel-flap,

;compr1sing means arranged to close the channel-flap, means for-simultaneously trimming an element ofthev shoe, and means for feeding the shoe lengthwise of the channelflap so that said flap-closing means and said trimming means will function progressively. .4. A machine. for operating upon an inseamed shoe having a sole provided with a channel-flap, comprising means arranged to close the channel-flap, inseam-trimming means, and means for feeding the shoe to cause said flap-closing means and said trimming means to function progressively. 5. A machine for operating upon an inseamed shoe the sole of which is provided with a channel-flap, comprising a powerdriven roll arranged to act on the inner side of the surplus between-substance, means arranged to close the channel-flap, and means arranged to trim off the surplus betweensubstance. 2

6. A machine for operating upon an inseamed shoe the sole of which is provided with a channel-flap, comprising work-feedinggneans, means arranged to close the channel-fiap, and means for trimming surplus material from the between-substance.

7. A machine for operating upon an inseamed shoe the sole of which is provided with a channel-flap, co1nprisingavork-supporting means, means arranged to close the channel-flap, and means for trimming surplus material from the between-substance.

8. A machine forv operating upon an in- .seamed shoe the sole of which is ,provided with a channel flap, comprising means arranged to press down the channel-fiap, means for trimming surplus material fromthe between-substance, and means for'supporting and feeding theshoe.

9. A machine for operating upon an inseamed shoe having a sole provided with a channel-flap, comprising a roll arranged to engage the inner side of the between-substance, and a member arranged in contiguous relation to an end of said roll to close the channel-flap, said roll and said member having cooperative bearing surfaces by which one is utilized to brace the other against working stresses.

10. A machine for operating upon an inseamed shoe having a soleprovided with a channel-flap, comprising means arranged to engage the shoe outside the between-substance to guide the shoe, and means arranged to close the channel-flap and to yield away from said guiding means in a direction substantially parallel to the plane of the sole;

11. A machine for operating upon an inseamed shoe having a sole provided with a channel-flap, comprising means arranged to engage the shoe outside the between-substance to guide the shoe, means arranged to close the channel-flap and to yield away from said guiding means in a direction substantially parallel vto the plane of the sole, and a roll carried by said spring-stressed means to engage the inner side of the upstanding between-substance.

12. A machine for operating upon an inseamed shoe thesole of which is provided with a channel-flap, comprising a roll the periphery of which is arranged to engage the inner side of the between-substance and one end of which is arranged to confront the sole, said end having an extension of relatively small diameter, and a member supported otherwise than by said roll to close said channel-flap, said member having a having a sole provided with a channel-flap,

comprising a member arranged to guide the shoe, and a member arranged to close the channel-flap, said members being supported independently of each other and arranged so that one vbraces the other against working stresses.

15, In a machine having means for trimming surplus material from an inseamed shoe, the combination of means arranged to close the channel-flap of the sole, and means movable relatively to said channel-closing means to guide the surplus material to said trimming means.

16. In a machine having means for trimming surplus material froma shoe having a soleprovided with a channel-flap, the combination of means arranged to close the channel-fiap and gage the closeness of trimming, and means arranged to guide the surplus material to said trimming means, said closing means and said guiding means being relatively movable but-arranged so that one braces the other.

17. In a machine having means for trimmmg surplus material from a shoe having .a sole provided with a channel-flap, the combination of two relatively movable devices arranged the one to close the channel-flap and the other to guide the surplus material to said trimming means. i

18. In a machine having means for trimming surplus material from the between-substance of an inseamed shoe having a sole provided with a channel-flap, the combination of two relatively movable members arranged the one to close the channel-flap and the other to guide the between-substance to said trimming means, said members being also arranged so that one braces the other against working stresses.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

' GEORGE A. MINER.

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