US1529411A - Pattern for garments and method of using same - Google Patents

Description

March 10, 1925- 1,529,411

I F. KOE WING PATTERN FOR GARM ENTS AND METHOD OF USING SAME Filed Jan. 19, 1921 IUPPEIESLEEVE REFoE/Tlwlmlo- Uq Lglvgm musmmr LINE mvgm gmsmnvr LINE awn top JED/Me for Garments and PatentedMar. 10,1925.

UNITED STATES FRANK KOEWIH'G, Oil! WEST ORANGE, NEW JERSEY.

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Application filed January 18, 1921. Serial 1T0. 438,885.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK Konwmo, a citizen of the United States of America, residing at West Orange, county of Essex,

State of New Jersey, have invented certain.

new and useful Im rovements in Patterns ethods of Using Same, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in patterns for garments and consists in the novel construction of patterns as hereinafter described.

My invention has for "its object the convenient,.rapid and accurate adjustment of the len thwise dimensions of the pattern to the %gure ofthe pattern user, and of facilitating a rapid and accurate transfer of such of the internal features and joining points of the various parts of the pattern to the materialof which the garment is to be made, as may be necessary for the construction of the garment.

The accompanying drawing shows, by way of example, several parts of a pattern embodyin my invention printed on a single sheet 0 paper, parts being broken away.

The pattern may-be -made of paper or other material but is preferably made of paper, which may be printed or partly water-marked and partly printed; it may be in sheet form, assembled with all parts in position ready to be placed on garment material and cut, or in sheet'form unassembled or cut into its various outlined parts.

Throughout the drawings like reference characters indicate like parts. Y

1 represents a portion of the sheet of paper on which the various parts of a pattern for a complete garment has .been printed. 2 is the pattern of one of the side parts of the garment and 7 a pattern of the up r part of one sleeve.

eretofore the custom has been to print on the envelope container of every pattern, in addition to other information (such as catalog number, kind of pattern and views thereof, as well as the amount of material required), he size thereof, whether it be bust, waist or hip measure. Such measures are invariably horizontal,'i. e., around the figure, and graduated sizes are made ranging from slender to stout persons, but in no case have the lengthwise dimensions of a pattern-been stated,'either on the pattern where they would be most handy, or on the envelope. The purchaser, therefore, not

knowing either the lengthwise dimensions of her figure or those of the pattern, has been obhged to ascertain both of these dimensions before she could tell whether length ad ustments were needed, and, if

needed, whether they involved lengthening or shortemn the pattern and how much, 1n order to t it to the users figure. Not until this verification, or adjustment, is made can the pattern be safely put upon the cloth and the latter cut; to do otherwise would cally, between neck and waist line, waist be to risk the spoiling of valuable material.

and hip line, and hip to bottom of arment, and this cannot be properly one until the'waist and hip lines are located on each pattern part concerned. While the pattern user'is enabled to buy' patterns of the erract size desired in' the stated horizontal dimensions, the dimensions lengthwise are,

in each case, the normal medium size, and

attern users are required to adjust these engthwise dimensions of the pattern totheir figures as stated, to make them fit perpend1cularly as well as horizontally. It is obvious that a large number of persons are taller or shorter than the normal medium.

height in which the pattern is made; there ma be. a variation of from one to three inc es in either direction. To simplify the heretofore diflicult lengthwise adjustment of the pattern to the prospectlve wearers figure, before cutting the cloth, I have devised the following easily intelligible and helpful aids: I print, hOllzontally, across each pattern art affected, the line ofnormal waist 13 an the hip line 14; then I print, on each such part,'verticall a simulated ta line 15, running from nec to bottom 0 pattern, crossing the waist and hip lines, thereb plainly indicat- A similar methodis provided for .lengthen- I ing or shortening of sleeves, the simulated tape line being shown at 3 on the sleeve pattern 7 In this-manner the confusion and delay formerly encountered before the pattern could be safely applied to the cloth, is avoided. p

The pattern parts being now ready to put upon the cloth, for cutting the latter, it

is necessary to fasten the pattern parts upon the cloth in order to hold each in position during the processof cutting the cloth along the pattern outlines. It has been customary in this temporary fastening of pattern to .cloth, to insert pins indiscriminately through both, with no other object in view -than that of holding the cloth and pattern together. The cloth parts are then cut. in

" duplicate (accomplished -by folding the mater al before the pattern part is pinned to it). The other features marked on the pattern must then be transferred to the. cloth. These features consist of theseam and out- 30 let seam lines, hem lines, pleats, gores, tucks, etc., and have heretofore been denoted by a which has to be explained on an instruc-- 1 the pattern also the -tee 'nically' important service of variety of perforations, the meaning of tion sheet. 1 This transferring has been done h 35 by marking through these perforations. in

pencil or chalk, or by bits of thread drawn through with a needle. Where pencil or chalk is used thepattern, after the top layer of cloth has been marked, must be detached and again fastened to the under-layer 'of cloth, where the same process of marking has to be re eated, involving double work, which can be avoided, however, by the threading method, loosely drawn through both sections of cloth, which are then separated slightly and the threads between the two out; but this method a is fully as tedious as the other. The pencil or chalk marks through the perforations,

being necessarily tin-y, are likely to be obliterated before servlng'their purpose, while I the little ends of the threads areabout as insecure. If any of these be lost'before the features they mark are attended to, the

marking must be done over again. From th1s description it must be clear that such' methods are both crude time.

I improve u 11 these methods bf emplo ing thepins, eretofore used solely to hold arts to the'goodsg'to perform and wasteful of transferring certain of the inner details of thev attern to the cloth quickly and efli- .0 y m the following manner: I print these threads being ttle ofthe shank showing. Spaces are left a between the pins forming each line. The pattern user will be directed on the pattern to insert actual pins in such manner as to cover these simulated ones, through both layers of the cloth as well as the pattern.

7 This method of pinning is fully as convenient as the other haphazard way and serves the purpose better because the seam and hem lines being parallel withand near the outlines of the pattern, form a border along which the pins are insertedholding the pattern firmly to the cloth. This pinning being done, and the cloth parts out out along the pattern outlines, the pattern user willbe directed to turn all cut sections over,

when there will appear on the exposed bottom layer of each section, lines of shanks of the pins stuck through. By means of chalk or pencil run between the spaces dividinge these pins, the under cloth portion may versed, with patterns on top, the latter "are taken off the cloth without withdrawing the pins, by gently tearing the paper from the pins, an easy matter as the paper is not tough. This being done, the marking by pencil or chalk, the same as on the under layer of cloth, is repeated on the top layer of cloth in the same manner. Then the pins may be withdrawn and'the garment parts joined and completed with the marked de tails on each as guides for the work to be done,

There remain to be marked on the cloth sections of the garments the serial numbers 9, '9, and the joining points, as 4', 6, etc.; this is accomplished by cutting out from the pattern the tabs 9, 4, 6, etc., and pinning them on top layer of'cloth parts (out in duplicate); For the under cloth parts, I provide duplicate tabs 10, having the pattern art numbers, and duplicate tabs 5-, 8, etc.,,

jacent to the originals on the pattern as pos- .sible. These duplicate 'joimng-point tabs and number tabs are to becut out and pinned to under cloth parts in the same positions as their originals occupy on upper parts. "Corresponding original and duplicate numbers and joining points are connected by dotted lines, if desired. These tabs 5, 8, 10, etc., are out out at the same time the cloth is cut and they and the originals are pinned on both upper and under ayers ofcloth, in the 'samepositions as marked on the pateasily, accurately and substantially marked. The sets of cloth being again re-' tern, cloth parts are joined at the places so marked, to the other parts to which the tabs and originals' refer. Thereafter the tabs are parts and the tabs 5, 8,

'pattern as appliedto a so that duplicate garmentsections for right unpinned number of tabs and joinmgpoints on the pattern undisturbed, the pattern intact. J

In operating my invention the paper pattern is pinned to the cloth which generally has been folded as above described the pins are inserted at the points marked by the simulations of pins, 11, 11; the cloth is then out along the margin of the various pattern the waste paper of the pattern and pinned to the under layer of the cloth, as before described; the seam lines are then chalked along the lines of the pins, as above described, and the patterns may then be re moved, leaving the cut portions ofthe cloth marked and ready for convenall properly and stitching together to form ient assembly the garment.

It is understood, of course, that while I have described the operation of my improved double fold of cloth and left sides of the completed garment may be cut at one operation, said pattern could be used upon a single without departing from the principle of the invention or losing the main features of advantage therein.

Having described my invention, I claim,

1. The herein described method of transferring seam lines and other lines from a printed paper pattern to a body of cloth to be out according to said pattern, which method comprises outlining the desired lines upon the pattern by the representation of a series of pins, sticking pins through the pattern and the cloth at the points so indicated, removing the attern and connecting the portions of sai pins-appearing on each of the opposite surfaces of said cloth with properly marked lines.

2. The herein described method of transferring seam lines and other lines from a v printed paperpattern to a folded body of cloth to be cut according to said pattern, which method comprises outlining thedesired lines upon the pattern by the representation of a series of pins, sticking pins through the pattern and the cloth at the points 'so indicated, removing the pattern,

and remain there until 'the respective 10, are cut out from 'tern for garments thickness 'of cloth,

various pattern out according to the sai connecting the portions of said pins appearing on each of the opposite surfaces of said cloth with properly marked lines and removing said pins. v

3.- As an article of manufacture, a pattern for garments having the waist line and hip line printed on each proper pattern art and also having a printed line paralle thereto along which the said pattern part may be cut for length adjustment and also having a representation of a tape measure running lengthwise of said pat-tern art whereby the operator, after measuring t li lengths of the person to be fitted, can readily compare such measurements with those shown on the tapemeasure printed on the pattern and, by cutting the pattern along the last mentioned line, adjust the sections by the aid of said representation of a tape measure to correspond to the length of garment desired. v

4. As an article-of manufacture, a pattern for garments having a transverse line printed on each pattern part at the point where the same should be cut for length adjustment and also having the representation of a'tape measure running lengthwise of said pattern part.

5. As an article of manufacture, a pathaving the outlines of the various pattern parts printed on paper, certain identifying marks printed on the said pattern parts and corresponding marks printed on waste portions of the paper and adapted .to be cut out and fastened to portions of the cloth out according to the pattern parts.

6.- As an article of manufacture, a pattern for garmentshaving the outline of the parts printed on paper, certain joining points on the various pattern e waist and hip parts designated by corresponding characters printed on the borders of said parts and dutern for garments-having the outlines of the various parts composlng the garment print- I ed on paper, certain identifying marks printed on said pattern parts in predetermined positions and corresponding marks also printed on the paper and adapted to be cut out and fastened to the portions of the cloth attern parts.

KOEWING.

d FRA

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