US1290654A - Method of making shoes. - Google Patents

Description

G` FGLLOCK.

METH UF MAKING SHOES.

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/NVEN TUR l?. FULL L'K Patvuted Jau. T, i919.

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Fuz 3 GEORGE POLLOCK, OF SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA.

METHOD F MAKING SHOES.

Specication of Letters Patent.

Patented Jan. 7, 1919.

Application tiled Hay 29, 1918. Serial No. 237,284.

To all Vwhom t may concern:

Be it known that I, GEORGE PoLLocK, acitizen of the United States, residing at San Francisco, in the county of San Francisco and State of California, have invented new and useful Improvements in Methods of Making Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

The object of my invention is to rovide a method of making shoes which wil be less expensive than those heretofore used inthe amount of capital required for the manufacture, in the cost of labor employed, and in the amount of material consumed, and which will result in the formation of a more comfortable shoe than those made by previous methods.

In the accompanying drawing, Filgure 1 is a plan View of a shoe made accor ing to my improved method; Fig. 2 is an enlarged cross sectional View on the line 2--2 of Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a similar view illustrating the first stage in the manufacture of the shoe; Fig. 4 is a similar view illustrating the second stage thereof.

My improvement refers only to the making of the front portion of the shoe, the rear portion being made according to methods now in use.

I first cut out the sole 1 and welt 2, and I also form an upper without molding, lasting, or stretching the leather of the upper in any manner whatever. The first operation in so forming the upper is to cut inner and outer upper sections 3, 3" of Hat pieces of leather and of proper shapein that the inner longitudinal edges of these sectionsv are curved convexly to each other at their extremefront portions, so that, when said inner edges are stitched together, thereby forming a hollow body having a longitudinal seam 5, while the rear portion of said seam slopes gently downward toward the toe portion of the upper, the downward inclination of said seam increases more and more as it extends forwardly, until at an extreme front portion it becomes approximately vertical. The sections 3, 3", are unequal in width, the inner section 3'L being the narrower, so that said seam extends in a direct line between the toe and the heel. They are carefully cut of such form and size that, when they are so stitched together, the free marginal portion of the upper so formed can be laid down with the under side downward, So that its edge, laid flat on the sole, and without being turned inward as in lasting an upper to a sole, exactly registers with the edge of the sole, and that the volume then inclosed by the upper and sole is substantially that of the foot to be fitted.

Having prepared inner and outer sections 3, 3", of the proper size and shape as above explained, they are stitched together along their inner longitudinal edges to form the seam 5, and the joined blanks are then inverted, so that the seam 5 extends inwardly into the upper 3. I then place the upper thus formed upon the sole so that its ed e exactly registers with the edge of the so e, and I cement the under side of a marginal portion of the upper of a width of about one-quarter of an inch to the upper side of a marginal portion of the sole of the same width. I then secure, by stitching 4, said welt 2 to the marginal portion of the upper 3 and the marginal portion of the sole 1 thus cemented together. The formation of the front portion of the shoe is then comleted. The heel portion of the shoe is made y turning in or under upon the heel the leather forming the upper part of the shoe and securing thereto a counter in the usual manner.

A last is inserted in the shoe to raise the font portion of the upper to the proper s a e.

It will therefore be seen that by my improved process I eect a saving in material used for making the upper, since the said material is not so wide as before, the use of an insole and six machines, namely (1) the grooving machine, which cuts the groove in the insole, (2) the lasting machine, which is used for stretching the upper over the last, (3) the welting machine, which is used to secure together the welt, upper and insole, (4) the welt beating mechne, (5) the welt trimming machine, (6) the rough rounding machine. I use a stitching machine for stitching the welt, upper and sole together,

but that is also used in prior methods, and I use an ed trimming machine for trimming the e ge of a compound sole formed by the welt, upper and sole.

It will readily be seen that this method of making shoes requires less capital in the installation of machinery, less labor, because there are fewer machines to operate, and less material, since the blanks from which the upper is formed are cut the exact size required, and there is no loss in trimming o' the edge of the upper.

1. The method of forming a shoe which consists in forming a sole and upper sections having the extreme front portions of their inner edges curved convexly toward each other, said sections being of such size and form that their outer edges can exactly register with the edge of the sole, and that, when their outer edges So register and their outer marginal portions rest with inner surfaces next adjacent to the sole, and their inner edges are stitched together, they inclose with the sole a space substantially of the size of the foot to be fitted, and then so stitching together said marginal portions and the sole so registering with said edges.

2. The method of forming a shoe which consists of forming a sole and upper sections having the extreme front portions of their inner edges curved convexly toward each other, said sections being of such size and form that their outer edges can exactly register with the edge of the sole, and that, when their outer edges so register and their outer marginal portions rest with inner surfaces next adjacent to the sole, and their inner edges are stitched together, they inclose with the sole a space substantially o f the size of the foot to be fitted, then so stitching together said marginal portions and the sole so registering with said edges, and then shaping the upper to the final form.

G. POLLOCK.

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